BTW... There are DC throttles on the market that provide speed control equal to DCC. as they send out pulses to the loco so they start realistically slow and smooth. They seem to have lost favor
I have the exact same locomotive except it is in Baltimore & Ohio "livery". In the box like this one too. It was my Dad's from way back in the day. I put many miles on it under the Christmas Tree in the 1980s. It's in storage now. If I ever get it out and it needs a rebuild I will use this video as reference. Thank for keeping the old Tyco-Mantuas running.
The first HO set my Dad gave me was the ATSF 0-4-0 slopeback with assorted freight and TrailerTrain flatcar, semitruck and loading ramp. Mine was lighted and the boiler was plastic. He bought me the kit version of this exact engine (die-cast metal boiler, high non working headlight) to learn to build my own at around 9. I still have both. The still run. The road name has been changed a couple times in 53 years.
@@SMTMainline I have a Chattanooga Tyco 2-8-0, a Mantua PRR 0-4-0t, and a Mantua B&O 4-6-2. The 2-8-0 and 4-6-2 are from the mid 70’s while the 0-4-0t is from the mid to late 60’s.
I found you by chance a few weeks ago SMT, and I just have to say. Thank you. You're break down and repair for a junked Lionel Engine a month or so back gave me the confidence to take a crack at repairing my own 0-4-0 lionel dockside switcher. It hadn't run in over 10 years, and hadn't run well before then either. I had taken it to a repair shop 9 years ago, and was told that it wasn't worth fixing, that it would cost too much to fix what was wrong. Well after watching your video, I managed to not only get it running, but I got it running so much better than it had before it stopped too. The only money spent was on some fiberglass pencils, and the lubricant and grease for the engine. SO from the bottom of my heart, thank you ever so much for giving this amateur repair enthusiast the confidence needed to bring a piece of his childhood back to life. Now I just need to find an old Pullman carriage to go behind it, to complete the old look I want for that engine. :D
I received a tyco set for Christmas in 1970 (I was 5 yrs Old) which included a few cars, a log dumper, AND THIS engine. It hasn't run since maybe 1973. I still have it, and started to disassemble it a few years ago, but stopped (life happens). All the parts are in a container. It was great seeing this video and how you troubleshot it. Although I'm not running HO at this time. I'm going to try to get it to run again. I'll definitely look at that unsoldered wire. Thanks for sharing
This is a 1965 or older RTR Tyco Mantua (or a newer kit build). In 66 they updated this loco to a plastic boiler and smokebox center lighted headlight. The box is from pre 1967 and for a small RTR. The kit came in a closed cardboard box. They stopped offering The General (advertised on that box) as their RTR old timer, in favor of the lighted larger Dixie Bell 10 wheeler (Petticoat Junction, Green Acres Cannonball #3 TV celebrity). Mantua kept selling the older die-cast boiler small engines as kits into the 70s and 80s. The cab on this 0 4 0 is the same cab they used on the Tyco vaguely P7 Pacific and their Mikado. The best visual upgrade to those locomotives is to replace the very small 0-4-0 cab with a scale larger cab.
Being in N scale, I learned very quickly the advantage of having a magnetic tray to keep the screws in. You know where they all are, till one slips out of your grip, and you're dragging a magnet on the floor to find it. Great vids.
I found a 1950s-era Mantua or Tyco 4-6-2 which hadn't run in decades and appeared to have lain in water for a while. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the diecast parts and the motor was rusted solid. Managed to clean up the motor and it actually ran surprisingly well, better than some newer motors.
I found a trunk full of 70's vintage Tyco trains in the basement of a hoarder house my Son bought. By watching your video I restored a Western & Atlantic locomotive to good running condition. Thanks much. Now I have to use the track with it to build a layout!
Put another tic in the success column, Harrison. She's a runner! It's actually a nice little locomotive with a slope back tender. She'll run for another fifty years with proper maintenance. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
My goodness one thing I would do with that model is to get all the metal fragments off the magnet. I would also replace the pick up wire from the tender to the motor,. And perhaps use a blube to test for 'power' rather than doing 'the spark' test, as this will short out your controler!
Tyco Mantua use to make really nice locomotives then they went their separate ways and tyco started making some real junk, the bodies were nice and worth repowering with say an Athearn drive. Mantua made some really nice engines after they seperated steam and diesel, I have a number of both. I believe the motors in those were D77's and were a very good little motor. As I have said in recent posts on your sight, whenever I can't get something like that running I will take out the motor and make them a dummy and run them behind a powered locomotive, they look just as good and happy. Love your videos and the way you explain things.
Hey Scrump - Nice to see you tackle an old Mantua Metals engine! I think that the loco is all set, but I think that I see a bit of corrosion on the tender, like it has been stored in a damp location for a long time. The brass connector on the tender connector screw is green, you might consider replacing the entire wire since the crimp is corroded and the copper wire is probably green inside. Also, I would pull off the tender wheels and buff up the connection points between the wheels and the tender frame and give them a bit of lube. I bet that it will crawl and fly like new.
Interesting video. I think I need to have a chat with my (almost 80) mother and see if she still has her 40's era Lionel train. If so, I will ask if she would give it to you. Wouldn't want a profit - just payment for shipping and the effort. UPS store ain't cheap when it comes to packing potentially fragile and valuable items. It had the locomotive, tender and several cars. Some in the original box, some not. It also had the original transformer, A cousin and I dug it out of the attic and got it running one Christmas. Most of the original track was gone. We went to Colonial Photo and Hobby in Orlando. We learned Lionel trains were so popular all parts were still available (in 1983). They even had flexible track you could bend. We got it running in the wee early morning hours of Christmas by doing what you started with - putting it on the track, sending the juice, and giving it a push. Here's how little I know about trains; I thought that ozone smell was a GOOD thing. Mom burst into tears when she saw it running Christmas morning. After watching your video i am positive beyond doubt you could get it running. IF IF IF IF she did not dispose of it when she moved into retirement community before my Dad's death, I'm almost certain she would rather have it in the hands of a collector who would cherish it as a part of their collection instead of sitting in a box in her storage shed. She would ask only that you produce a video like this of making it run again. If that is the case, how can I contact you?
I enjoy watching you disassemble and clean the locos. It gives me the confidence to clean and restore mine, which haven’t run for some years either, due to me moving several times for work and retirement. Now I have the time to rebuild my layout and my railroad. Thanks.
Good to see the younger modelers appreciate the old school rolling stock. The lack of a traction tire and the deeper, sharper flanges on the wheel sets make it from the fifties, very early sixties. BTW...it's pronounced "man-CHEW-uh", something I did not know until recently myself.
I got one of these a little while ago from a viewer as well. PRR livery on the tender and I basically fixed it up just like you did. Runs pretty well, tough little things.
This is the exact locomotive I had in the late 1960s - wow. Unfortunately we lived in a large 1860 Victorian home and the basement was a little damp where my layout was. Corrosion got to anything metal, tracks, wires, wheels. So it kind of sucked for railroading. Loved building the layout. Thanks for making this video.
Good job making it go! One more point you can check for improving electrical pickup is where the tender chassis sits on the trucks. Remove the trucks, clean up the contact area on both the top of the trucks and the frame, and it should do even better. These tend to oxidize around that area when left sitting for a long time, and it can cause poor contact between the trucks and frame.
Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I did put a bit of conductive oil where they connect to the tender but it probably would have been best if I cleaned it first.
I have spent a lot of money on new Locomotives and after watching your videos you have got me wanting to buy old engines and fixing them up for fun. Really great videos. Thank you.
SMT if it wasn't for you making these videos i would not have my O-gauge 0-8-0 repaired from scrap ! I really thank you for making these type of videos!!
The red boxes were standard Tyco till about 72?. They went to brown boxes, but old stock in red boxes were still around in 74. People rarely cleaned wheels or track. Most never lubed, stained the carpets. The plastic spacers in motors often wear out, allowing the motor to move on axis between the bearings and operate better in one direction because of binding. "The Shifter" is fairly indestructible. They are not fond of insulated frogs at low speeds. Good job!
I just realized how much times you have uploaded at the same time i have my late night snack! Its like a ritual now where i watch your videos at night! Edit: are you thinking of doing more O scale anytime soon? Just curious
A Kadee wheel cleaning brush works very well. Brass bristles will supply power to loco wheels so motor turns wheels while cleaning.. For tender wheels I use pipe cleaners, course is stiff for cleaning & won't scratch metal & the wire allows you to loop shape ends. NWSL had "can" motors with gear/flywheel combo which improved low yard speed running of these switching loco.
My first train was a GE 44 toner Tyco. Just came from the local train show in oaks Pennsylvania. I'm brought a bunch of old 1960s Tyco Mantua, ahm cars. Always fun
Good job! With all the oxidation I would also clean the contact between the tender frame and the trucks, as well as the screw that the wire connects to.
I'm restoring two 0-6-0 versions. The one currently on the bench is giving me a real hard time. I'll have to give it another go now that I've seen your approach
Good Job on the resto. (aside, SP didn't have that loco, but we're just having fun right!) Note: I made 3 suggestions for you on making your equipment better in the comment section on one of you past 'live' feeds (few weeks back) cheers
As a fyi if you ever find the need to Remove the motor magnet , they tend to loose magmatism and will make the motor very weak run hot or not run at all. I often replace them with neo magnets. Speaking of lubrication synthetic ATF is really great stuff it has a strong detergent package and will not load up comm brushes
This must have been a popular model. My Dad had one, although the name wasreplaced with his fictional Wallkill Valley RR. We put quite a few miles on it.
I have this same Engine. It was my father's from the 1960's. I haven't used in a couple of years, but it always ran well. I would like to add a running light. I had add a key light for now.
Aren't you ever nervous that you might break something you always seem so confident that nothing will go wrong I have never seen you not be able to get one on the rails again!?
For some of these older 0-4-0s , would upgrading them to either 0-4-2s or the 2-4-2 "Columbia type" or even the 4-4-2 "Atlantic type" to prevent derailing?
Not bad! If you want slower operation or more reliable electrical pick up I would recommend making all of the wheels in the tender to have pick up, might have to find some trucks from another tender which already has all wheel pickup. You will probably have to run 2 wires from the tender to the loco motor also. I have done it in N scale many times. I am sure in HO scale there are probably aftermarket motors for sale also. Another trick for cleaning metal wheels that aren't drivers is to use a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. Works great and quickly!
Another nice repair! That loco looks like it has all its parts too. BTW, did you consider giving it a thorough cleaning including rust removal? I will look a whole lot nicer!
Great job getting it running. I have a tender that was in a random box its for one of these type locomotives. Someday it will have the engine to go with it. Serenity!
Definitely 60s Tyco Mantua with those reddish brown wheels on the tender. Not sure if that's just they mixture on the plastic/bakelite Tyco used at the time or from age.
Mantua was budget Bowser. Similar build methodology and 1950s model designs they kept into the 90s. Tyco eventually went another way (totally toy) as evidenced by their odd ConRail gloss teal slopeback and then the tender driven Chattanooga Choo Choo which was odd indeed.
@@STho205 Mantua had its roots in the Thirties. Original Mantua was 6-volt DC, zamak castings and some sheet-brass boilers. Building a locomotive kit was a challenge. The Mantua coupler was so widely used it was suggested it be made the HO standard. A few of the early models were recreated with plastic in later years. The quality declined badly.
@@larryphilby4918 yep. I have a 1935 version with the Mantua loop and hook coupler. Motor's rusted over. Most Mantua from the 60s, 70s and early 80s was designed in the 50s, with a modified slight redesign in 1966 to add lighting. In the late 80s and 90s they started introducing new locomotives by kitbashing their existing line. They introduced two camelbacks and an Atlantic. Both were quite attractive.
@@SMTMainline when do you think you will restore the bowser decapod? also thanks again its nice to see my grandpas locomotives running. My dad told me when he was a kid he tried using those but they wouldn't work so thats probably why they have virtually no ware. so my grandpa most have used it and it got oxided and didn't work. Also when i'm talking about it didn't work i mean like all of them.
An open frame motor, pickups on the tender, and a working ftont coupler, way better than the later model power\ life like toys that weren't built to last.
I'm impressed with your success ratio, but where do you get conductive lubricants and what brand do you use? Also, what kind of gear grease do you use as well?
Sometimes Tyco mantua contact issues can be traced to the connection between the tender trucks and the frame of the tender. Remove the trucks polish the frame and top of truck a little conductive oil and reasemble
Look into dielectric grease if your ever in need of a thick grease thats also electricity freindly. Automotive grade and can be used in electrical connecters ( keeps water out )
Hi SMT! Thanks for all the videos. I actually have the exact loco on this video. I have done all the maintenance but find the drive binding when I tighten the lower plate. If I loosen the plate it releases and runs well. I wondered if you had an idea or two for me on how to address this. Thanks again.
It's amazing you are able to get these old locomotives running. Do you have a discord server? If not I would highly recommend creating one as they are great for communities as it allows people to communicate in a large group whether that's by text or voice chat.
I picked up the same model at my local hobby store. By watching your video I was able to get it moving again! It does make some buzzing noises when it sits on the track idle though, is that an issue?
Hello, I was watching your other videos and thinking it would be nice if you worked on my old engine. Then you did. On mine the motor did move over 30 yr ago but the gear attached to the wheel is worn out. 1. How can i get a new wheel w/gear? 2. Where do get your oils and lube? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thank you Robert
Hey, I’m trying to make or get the dummy coupler on the bachmann 0-6-0 to become operational, can I use a bachann under frame from the 2-6-0 and put it on the 0-6-0?
My dad has an engine just like that but the problem with it it keeps jumping the tracks. Is there some type of wheel adjustment under the locomotive that I can tweek
Hi watching this locomotive beening brought back to life was interesting , I would like to point out that. it might run better if you could quartered the driver wheels as they looked out of alignment to me...
Great looking locomotive. Great job. I have something to send you but need a mailing address. No it is not a train to be repaired. 😺 but is something I think you need after watching so many of your videos. 😊 Take care and stay safe.
SMT I have a Manuta 0-4-0 and it takes a lot of power to get it running like 80% power and it speeds up and slow down and I cleaned and oiled everything what should I do? 🚂
I have the same model Union Pacific , I have taken out the motor, it's drivers cabin is missing how to fix that , and silver rods on the boiler is also not there how can I make it
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I loved your almost confident catch phrase. “We’ve got a... run... ner.” Haha. Great job as always.
Sounds about usual, haha
SMT did you ever way “we’ve got a runnner” with the last locomotive in this trio of the 3 engines that didn’t run in 50 years?
BTW... There are DC throttles on the market that provide speed control equal to DCC. as they send out pulses to the loco so they start realistically slow and smooth. They seem to have lost favor
This young man know how to save locomotives,very good
I have the exact same locomotive except it is in Baltimore & Ohio "livery". In the box like this one too. It was my Dad's from way back in the day. I put many miles on it under the Christmas Tree in the 1980s. It's in storage now. If I ever get it out and it needs a rebuild I will use this video as reference. Thank for keeping the old Tyco-Mantuas running.
They are great little locomotives. I've bought tyco manta models in terrible condition and even then, with a bit of work they still run great.
The first HO set my Dad gave me was the ATSF 0-4-0 slopeback with assorted freight and TrailerTrain flatcar, semitruck and loading ramp. Mine was lighted and the boiler was plastic. He bought me the kit version of this exact engine (die-cast metal boiler, high non working headlight) to learn to build my own at around 9.
I still have both. The still run. The road name has been changed a couple times in 53 years.
@@SMTMainline I have a Chattanooga Tyco 2-8-0, a Mantua PRR 0-4-0t, and a Mantua B&O 4-6-2. The 2-8-0 and 4-6-2 are from the mid 70’s while the 0-4-0t is from the mid to late 60’s.
I found you by chance a few weeks ago SMT, and I just have to say. Thank you. You're break down and repair for a junked Lionel Engine a month or so back gave me the confidence to take a crack at repairing my own 0-4-0 lionel dockside switcher. It hadn't run in over 10 years, and hadn't run well before then either. I had taken it to a repair shop 9 years ago, and was told that it wasn't worth fixing, that it would cost too much to fix what was wrong. Well after watching your video, I managed to not only get it running, but I got it running so much better than it had before it stopped too. The only money spent was on some fiberglass pencils, and the lubricant and grease for the engine. SO from the bottom of my heart, thank you ever so much for giving this amateur repair enthusiast the confidence needed to bring a piece of his childhood back to life. Now I just need to find an old Pullman carriage to go behind it, to complete the old look I want for that engine. :D
Way to go!! If a 'pro' says it's ruined why NOT try yourself!? WIN!
4:21 my brain instinctively made me think I was smelling that old model train smell, you know the one that's slightly burning mixed with old oil
Any hobbyist who has worked with older models will know exactly what you're talking about.
@@SMTMainline me too
I received a tyco set for Christmas in 1970 (I was 5 yrs Old) which included a few cars, a log dumper, AND THIS engine. It hasn't run since maybe 1973. I still have it, and started to disassemble it a few years ago, but stopped (life happens). All the parts are in a container. It was great seeing this video and how you troubleshot it. Although I'm not running HO at this time. I'm going to try to get it to run again. I'll definitely look at that unsoldered wire. Thanks for sharing
Me about to sleep Smt “ let’s restore some 50 year old train
Yep, haha
Exactly 😅
You are so good at repairs. Now I want a Tyco steam engine. Thanks.
This is a 1965 or older RTR Tyco Mantua (or a newer kit build). In 66 they updated this loco to a plastic boiler and smokebox center lighted headlight. The box is from pre 1967 and for a small RTR. The kit came in a closed cardboard box. They stopped offering The General (advertised on that box) as their RTR old timer, in favor of the lighted larger Dixie Bell 10 wheeler (Petticoat Junction, Green Acres Cannonball #3 TV celebrity).
Mantua kept selling the older die-cast boiler small engines as kits into the 70s and 80s.
The cab on this 0 4 0 is the same cab they used on the Tyco vaguely P7 Pacific and their Mikado. The best visual upgrade to those locomotives is to replace the very small 0-4-0 cab with a scale larger cab.
Being in N scale, I learned very quickly the advantage of having a magnetic tray to keep the screws in. You know where they all are, till one slips out of your grip, and you're dragging a magnet on the floor to find it. Great vids.
I have one around, sometimes the screws get stuck to the bottom lol
I found a 1950s-era Mantua or Tyco 4-6-2 which hadn't run in decades and appeared to have lain in water for a while. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the diecast parts and the motor was rusted solid. Managed to clean up the motor and it actually ran surprisingly well, better than some newer motors.
I found a trunk full of 70's vintage Tyco trains in the basement of a hoarder house my Son bought. By watching your video I restored a Western & Atlantic locomotive to good running condition. Thanks much. Now I have to use the track with it to build a layout!
Put another tic in the success column, Harrison. She's a runner! It's actually a nice little locomotive with a slope back tender. She'll run for another fifty years with proper maintenance.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Thanks David. I agree, these models were well built and if you treat them right they can run for an awful long time.
My goodness one thing I would do with that model is to get all the metal fragments off the magnet. I would also replace the pick up wire from the tender to the motor,. And perhaps use a blube to test for 'power' rather than doing 'the spark' test, as this will short out your controler!
Great video!!! You my friend are a gift to the hobby! Keep up the good work and once again thank you.
Tyco Mantua use to make really nice locomotives then they went their separate ways and tyco started making some real junk, the bodies were nice and worth repowering with say an Athearn drive. Mantua made some really nice engines after they seperated steam and diesel, I have a number of both. I believe the motors in those were D77's and were a very good little motor. As I have said in recent posts on your sight, whenever I can't get something like that running I will take out the motor and make them a dummy and run them behind a powered locomotive, they look just as good and happy. Love your videos and the way you explain things.
My dad and I built one of these and the 4-6-2 pacific in about 1966. I had a couple rubber band powered Athern's, but dad wanted steam...
Hey Scrump - Nice to see you tackle an old Mantua Metals engine! I think that the loco is all set, but I think that I see a bit of corrosion on the tender, like it has been stored in a damp location for a long time. The brass connector on the tender connector screw is green, you might consider replacing the entire wire since the crimp is corroded and the copper wire is probably green inside. Also, I would pull off the tender wheels and buff up the connection points between the wheels and the tender frame and give them a bit of lube. I bet that it will crawl and fly like new.
I have found if you heat that soldering gun on some PVC tubing it cleans off any burnt stuff really clean.
Interesting video. I think I need to have a chat with my (almost 80) mother and see if she still has her 40's era Lionel train. If so, I will ask if she would give it to you. Wouldn't want a profit - just payment for shipping and the effort. UPS store ain't cheap when it comes to packing potentially fragile and valuable items. It had the locomotive, tender and several cars. Some in the original box, some not. It also had the original transformer, A cousin and I dug it out of the attic and got it running one Christmas. Most of the original track was gone. We went to Colonial Photo and Hobby in Orlando. We learned Lionel trains were so popular all parts were still available (in 1983). They even had flexible track you could bend. We got it running in the wee early morning hours of Christmas by doing what you started with - putting it on the track, sending the juice, and giving it a push. Here's how little I know about trains; I thought that ozone smell was a GOOD thing. Mom burst into tears when she saw it running Christmas morning.
After watching your video i am positive beyond doubt you could get it running. IF IF IF IF she did not dispose of it when she moved into retirement community before my Dad's death, I'm almost certain she would rather have it in the hands of a collector who would cherish it as a part of their collection instead of sitting in a box in her storage shed. She would ask only that you produce a video like this of making it run again.
If that is the case, how can I contact you?
I believe I’ve got that same model, stashed away in a storage bin, that I bought at The Hobby Bench in Glendora, back in 1972 or 1973.
I enjoy watching you disassemble and clean the locos. It gives me the confidence to clean and restore mine, which haven’t run for some years either, due to me moving several times for work and retirement. Now I have the time to rebuild my layout and my railroad. Thanks.
now the engine hasn’t ran in 22 minutes :D
Exactly
@@SMTMainline lol
Good to see the younger modelers appreciate the old school rolling stock. The lack of a traction tire and the deeper, sharper flanges on the wheel sets make it from the fifties, very early sixties. BTW...it's pronounced "man-CHEW-uh", something I did not know until recently myself.
I got one of these a little while ago from a viewer as well. PRR livery on the tender and I basically fixed it up just like you did. Runs pretty well, tough little things.
They don't break easy, a bit of cleaning and oil and they are good to go.
This is the exact locomotive I had in the late 1960s - wow. Unfortunately we lived in a large 1860 Victorian home and the basement was a little damp where my layout was. Corrosion got to anything metal, tracks, wires, wheels. So it kind of sucked for railroading. Loved building the layout.
Thanks for making this video.
Awesome restoration! Keep em coming! Take care!
Good job making it go! One more point you can check for improving electrical pickup is where the tender chassis sits on the trucks. Remove the trucks, clean up the contact area on both the top of the trucks and the frame, and it should do even better. These tend to oxidize around that area when left sitting for a long time, and it can cause poor contact between the trucks and frame.
Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I did put a bit of conductive oil where they connect to the tender but it probably would have been best if I cleaned it first.
I have spent a lot of money on new Locomotives and after watching your videos you have got me wanting to buy old engines and fixing them up for fun. Really great videos. Thank you.
Why can't other channels be like yours but in N scale; this stuff is so educational, informative and educational 😎
Harrison great job as always. I have that one and never knew it was a tyco.
Thanks.
SMT if it wasn't for you making these videos i would not have my O-gauge 0-8-0 repaired from scrap ! I really thank you for making these type of videos!!
I wouldn't have though these videos would be applicable to O scale. Glad they helped though.
Funnily enough I just bought one of these from a store by me and it's great to see what possibly needs to be cleaned on it
What great timing!
The red boxes were standard Tyco till about 72?. They went to brown boxes, but old stock in red boxes were still around in 74. People rarely cleaned wheels or track. Most never lubed, stained the carpets. The plastic spacers in motors often wear out, allowing the motor to move on axis between the bearings and operate better in one direction because of binding. "The Shifter" is fairly indestructible. They are not fond of insulated frogs at low speeds. Good job!
Interesting history and information. Thanks for sharing!
I had the same loco when I was 10. It makes me feel good seeing one run again. PS that was 64 years ago!
I just realized how much times you have uploaded at the same time i have my late night snack! Its like a ritual now where i watch your videos at night!
Edit: are you thinking of doing more O scale anytime soon? Just curious
Glad you enjoy them. Not sure what's next for the O scale stuff. There isn't as much to work on but maybe I will do a maintenance video some day.
A Kadee wheel cleaning brush works very well. Brass bristles will supply power to loco wheels so motor turns wheels while cleaning.. For tender wheels I use pipe cleaners, course is stiff for cleaning & won't scratch metal & the wire allows you to loop shape ends.
NWSL had "can" motors with gear/flywheel combo which improved low yard speed running of these switching loco.
My first train was a GE 44 toner Tyco. Just came from the local train show in oaks Pennsylvania. I'm brought a bunch of old 1960s Tyco Mantua, ahm cars. Always fun
"Will we make it run?" is like asking "Does Disney make kids movies?"
IKR
Priceless
Imagine watching through a video just to find out the answer is "No."
@@rudyschwab7709 I don't know why but I find the idea of that hilarious.
Great video! Alway like yours restorations! 🙂👍
Thanks!
Good job! With all the oxidation I would also clean the contact between the tender frame and the trucks, as well as the screw that the wire connects to.
Probably a wise idea. I did put some oil there but that might not be enough.
Duuude... YOU the man! My favorite phrase, "Let's begin." 👍 Eaglegards...
I'm restoring two 0-6-0 versions. The one currently on the bench is giving me a real hard time. I'll have to give it another go now that I've seen your approach
Good Job on the resto. (aside, SP didn't have that loco, but we're just having fun right!) Note: I made 3 suggestions for
you on making your equipment better in the comment section on one of you past 'live' feeds (few weeks back) cheers
I had one of those when I was a kid. This video brings back good memories!
I bought a lot on ebay, parts and pieces, got a motor just like that one, (now I know what it is) and it runs very well. Thanks!
Wow you have amazing content! I really enjoy watching your videos! The world needs more people like you!
As a fyi if you ever find the need to Remove the motor magnet , they tend to loose magmatism and will make the motor very weak run hot or not run at all. I often replace them with neo magnets.
Speaking of lubrication synthetic ATF is really great stuff it has a strong detergent package and will not load up comm brushes
This must have been a popular model. My Dad had one, although the name wasreplaced with his fictional Wallkill Valley RR. We put quite a few miles on it.
I have this same Engine.
It was my father's from the 1960's.
I haven't used in a couple of years, but it always ran well.
I would like to add a running light.
I had add a key light for now.
While you're at it toss in DCC and sound.
Aren't you ever nervous that you might break something you always seem so confident that nothing will go wrong I have never seen you not be able to get one on the rails again!?
For some of these older 0-4-0s , would upgrading them to either 0-4-2s or the 2-4-2 "Columbia type" or even the 4-4-2 "Atlantic type" to prevent derailing?
I really enjoyed this video. Nice repair videos you have helped me learn more about locomotive repairs
ove your restoration vids. I learn more everyday from these vids.
Thanks.
And thanks for the Seminar! I have one just like it, now I know how to make it run better!
Not bad! If you want slower operation or more reliable electrical pick up I would recommend making all of the wheels in the tender to have pick up, might have to find some trucks from another tender which already has all wheel pickup. You will probably have to run 2 wires from the tender to the loco motor also. I have done it in N scale many times. I am sure in HO scale there are probably aftermarket motors for sale also. Another trick for cleaning metal wheels that aren't drivers is to use a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. Works great and quickly!
Incredible restore, great to see how you fix and repair these old parts. Nice job!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video keep up the Good work and have a wonderful day
Thanks, you too!
I found with tycos that need tender contact it helps putting some weight in the tender. They tend to be light and extra weight helps keep contact.
to think that little loco has been through 50 years and out of all the people its been with you might be the only one to help it get going again
Another nice repair! That loco looks like it has all its parts too. BTW, did you consider giving it a thorough cleaning including rust removal? I will look a whole lot nicer!
This engine looks gorgeous and it looks amazing it is running and what day you're going to show this engine in the live stream or something
Great job getting it running. I have a tender that was in a random box its for one of these type locomotives. Someday it will have the engine to go with it. Serenity!
Thanks Matt!
Definitely 60s Tyco Mantua with those reddish brown wheels on the tender.
Not sure if that's just they mixture on the plastic/bakelite Tyco used at the time or from age.
Serenity !!!!
Tyco-Mantua used a brass U-shaped bearing on driver axles. I always thought that was a good practice.
Mantua was budget Bowser. Similar build methodology and 1950s model designs they kept into the 90s.
Tyco eventually went another way (totally toy) as evidenced by their odd ConRail gloss teal slopeback and then the tender driven Chattanooga Choo Choo which was odd indeed.
@@STho205 Mantua had its roots in the Thirties. Original Mantua was 6-volt DC, zamak castings and some sheet-brass boilers. Building a locomotive kit was a challenge. The Mantua coupler was so widely used it was suggested it be made the HO standard. A few of the early models were recreated with plastic in later years. The quality declined badly.
@@larryphilby4918 yep. I have a 1935 version with the Mantua loop and hook coupler. Motor's rusted over.
Most Mantua from the 60s, 70s and early 80s was designed in the 50s, with a modified slight redesign in 1966 to add lighting.
In the late 80s and 90s they started introducing new locomotives by kitbashing their existing line. They introduced two camelbacks and an Atlantic. Both were quite attractive.
That one is a classic
I had one and it was always a good runner. 👍
I had that loco when I was a kid. more than 60 years ago. God I'm old
hello from the uk nice channel come across your channel and very interesting keep safe all the best al 😁👍🙋♂️🚂
Thank you! My grandpa would be proud
Great to hear that!
@@SMTMainline when do you think you will restore the bowser decapod? also thanks again its nice to see my grandpas locomotives running. My dad told me when he was a kid he tried using those but they wouldn't work so thats probably why they have virtually no ware. so my grandpa most have used it and it got oxided and didn't work. Also when i'm talking about it didn't work i mean like all of them.
An open frame motor, pickups on the tender, and a working ftont coupler, way better than the later model power\ life like toys that weren't built to last.
I have some tyco engines that are completely broken
And what do you plan to do about this situation?
had one of those along with a 4 6 2 ,, called the 0 4 0 Mighty Mike.. cause it would pull
Nice!
I'm impressed with your success ratio, but where do you get conductive lubricants and what brand do you use? Also, what kind of gear grease do you use as well?
Sometimes Tyco mantua contact issues can be traced to the connection between the tender trucks and the frame of the tender. Remove the trucks polish the frame and top of truck a little conductive oil and reasemble
I'm a new subscriber Harrison. I love watching your videos and I love watching you repair older stock.....are you self taught...?
Thank you so much. Yes, I am self taught. I started working on these things when I was around 11 or 12.
Look into dielectric grease if your ever in need of a thick grease thats also electricity freindly. Automotive grade and can be used in electrical connecters ( keeps water out )
Hi SMT! Thanks for all the videos. I actually have the exact loco on this video. I have done all the maintenance but find the drive binding when I tighten the lower plate. If I loosen the plate it releases and runs well. I wondered if you had an idea or two for me on how to address this. Thanks again.
It look in good condition
Great Video
It's amazing you are able to get these old locomotives running. Do you have a discord server? If not I would highly recommend creating one as they are great for communities as it allows people to communicate in a large group whether that's by text or voice chat.
I picked up the same model at my local hobby store. By watching your video I was able to get it moving again! It does make some buzzing noises when it sits on the track idle though, is that an issue?
Hello,
I was watching your other videos and thinking it would be nice if you worked on my old engine. Then you did.
On mine the motor did move over 30 yr ago but the gear attached to the wheel is worn out.
1. How can i get a new wheel w/gear?
2. Where do get your oils and lube?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Robert
Make sure you clean the crude off the brass tender wheels and the drivers.
Hey, I’m trying to make or get the dummy coupler on the bachmann 0-6-0 to become operational, can I use a bachann under frame from the 2-6-0 and put it on the 0-6-0?
I'm a sucker for a little 0-4-0. Good stuff.🚂🚃🚃
I am too, lol.
Don't you just love it on the box where it says Made in America
My dad has an engine just like that but the problem with it it keeps jumping the tracks. Is there some type of wheel adjustment under the locomotive that I can tweek
Opposite side wheels on the loco from the tender brass are positive pickup
My brother's first engine. Little Joe. I caught the bug. 1955-1957
Hi watching this locomotive beening brought back to life was interesting , I would like to point out that. it might run better if you could quartered the driver wheels as they looked out of alignment to me...
Great looking locomotive. Great job. I have something to send you but need a mailing address. No it is not a train to be repaired. 😺 but is something I think you need after watching so many of your videos. 😊 Take care and stay safe.
SMT I have a Manuta 0-4-0 and it takes a lot of power to get it running like 80% power and it speeds up and slow down and I cleaned and oiled everything what should I do? 🚂
alligator clips and a DMM would make your like a whole lot easier.
I've seen one of those at a model train store they were selling it for parts unfortunately
Great video. Thanks.
I have the same model Union Pacific , I have taken out the motor, it's drivers cabin is missing how to fix that , and silver rods on the boiler is also not there how can I make it
What about that washer you left on the bench? LOL No wonder it wouldn't run. :-)