Climbing Mount Elbrus 5642m by the North Route
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- [French below] - English subtitles available in the video.
Complete video edit of our expedition in the Elbrus area, in the Caucasus region in Russia, between July and August 2016, with Anthony Coupland our favorite Englishman.
9 days of expedition to climb, twice, its summit, in a tent in complete autonomy. It's one of the "7 summits", 5642m high.
Questions and comments are more than welcome :-)
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Vidéo complete de notre expédition au Mont Elbrouz, dans la région du Caucase en Russie entre Juillet et Août 2016, avec Anthony Coupland notre anglais préféré pour nous rejoindre.
9 jours d’expédition pour gravir, par deux reprises, son sommet, en bivouac et complète autonomie. C'est un des "7 summits", culminant à 5642m.
N'hésitez pas à nous poser des questions !
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Sortie Camp To Camp : bit.ly/C2C_Elbrouz
Photos : bit.ly/Photos_E...
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Music :
A Himitsu - Adventures (Creative Common)
Joakim Karud - Rock Angel (Creative Common)
Silent Partner - Parasail (Creative Common)
Twin Musicom - Midnight in the Graveyard (Creative Common)
Silent Partner - First of the Last (Creative Common)
THBD - Good For You (Creative Common)
Jingle Punks - Third Time (Creative Common)
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Back in 2008 we got in an electrostatic on Mt. Shuksan... Our ice stabbed in the snow near our tents started singing... one of the women with us had her hair stand on end and start smoldering... we all ran for it in all directions... Lightning struck on the pinnacle of the ridge above us... I've never felt anything like that, and it was terrifying.
Great adventure and great video as well. Thanks for sharing
Thank you ! :)
u r great people....god bless you brothers....love u all
Felicitation les gars , superbe aventure au sommet de cette sacrée montagne des caucases ! un jour je le ferais en solo !!!!! JE LE FERAIS !!!!!
Merci ! On te le souhaite, dis nous si tu le fait !
Awesome video guys..... planning Elbrus middle of the year!!
Thank you ! Let us know how it goes for you :)
What’s a good way to start mountaineering guys? I’m 18 from England and really want to start
I like mountains
so do we :)
Great quality video, great climb. Beautiful mountain.
Great video guys. It is a pleasure watching it. Also beautiful to see binational friendships like this. Mountaineering really brings together different people.
I would like to ask you, what would say are prerequisites (from a mountaineering point of view (skills/experience/mountains) for Elbrus North route?
congratulations friends
Thank you very much !
Loved it....Great video guys !!
And congrats for the successful summit even after having some health issues up there.
Just 1 question: Do you remember your average climb speed and walking time for each day?
Hello ! Thank you very much :)
Speed wise, it was very depending of terrain and load (and people wellness) :
To the summit from the Camp 1 3750m : just day pack, light load, approx 7+h walking for a total 1900m elevation gain, around a 250m / h average .. much faster in the beginning, much slower in the end with Jeremy slowly dying.
When we went from the Camp 1 3750m to Lenz Rocks 4850m : complete gear, heavy load (approx 25kg), approx 5-6h walking for 1000m elevation gain, around 170m/h average !
Summit day from Lenz Rocks, days packs, light load, I think we made the summit in around 3h for 900m elevation gain, so more around 300m / h .. but we were much more acclimatized and pushing !
That is just the climbing up time, then there are the breaks, breaks to make water (super long), and way down (at least 2 times faster). If you want more detailed timings, tell us, we'll check and tell you !
Cheers
Is this harder or easier than Kilimanjaro?
ty for the vid sir
Thank you for the comment :)
Waiting mountain Ararat tours
Araratsaltik
How many cost do you spent to climb Mt. Elbrus
Bonsoir. Pour votre ascension l'avez vous fait en autonomie complète (vêtements chaud, chaussures d'alpi, piolet, crampons, cordes etc...) dès le camp de base ou avez vous utilisez un minimum de "logistique" pour vous faire acheminer le matériel d'un camp à l'autre?
Cordialement
Salut Damien, désolé pour le délai de réponse. On a tout fait en autonomie complète depuis le camp de base (la ou le 4x4 nous dépose). La partie la plus critique a été de tout monter pour faire le "high camp" a Lenz Rocks !
great vídeo guys, thanks for all the details, they are very preciated. I have a few questions, because with a friend are planning same solo expedition for this july, first one is about the permit to climb, i read that since last year they are charging it; where and how can we pay it? second question is about the transportation to the base camp, how did you arrange it? and the third one is about the water, is it there any river close to the base camp, where we can get water from?
thanks a lot for your time preparing the video and for the answer.
all the best,
mati
Hello Mati ! Thank you.
Permit wise, nothing was existing when we did or we completely missed it ! But if there is one, it's completely new .. We won't be a big help here.
We took a specialized private transport to reach the base camp : Kaukasus Discovery. Directly from the airport to the base camp. I can send to you an english speaking contact in PM.
There is a river flowing a bit below the base camp, which you can get water from, although you'll have to clean it, either boiling or pills !
Cheers
Jacques & Jeremy
Smooth Adventure thanks for the answer guys. Yes please, send me the contact!
best,
mati
Bonjour, je me demandais quel était votre avis sur le JetBoil en altitude. Avez-vous remarqué une différence au niveau performance par rapport à la hauteur de la mer?
Salut Xavier ! Alors, oui, une grosse différence au camp a 4850m : la flamme du réchaud était tellement moins vigoureuse (robinet ouvert a fond, même le bruit était faiblard), que forcément les performances ont beaucoup chuté. Le matin du sommet lors de la 2e tentative, nous avons mis 1h30 pour faire fondre (seulement fondre) de la neige/glace jusqu’à obtenir 1,5L d'eau chacun - 4.5 L en tout, en utilisant le jetboil en continu. Alors oui il faisait très froid, mais .. On n'ose même pas imaginer avec un réchaud classique ! A cette altitude, un réchaud a essence est le top si tu peux te le permettre ..
Awesome video! Any chance you could provide a list of your gear you brought?
Hi Joe. Sure thing, we'll try to collect that and post that here :)
Hi Joe ! So, here is the rough list :
Common equipment split accross bags:
Tent : Simond Makalu T3 + undertent tarp
Cooking : Stove, pot, 6 gaz canisters, JetBoil 1L, Firestone
Solar Panel : Raw Power 16W
Satellite phone : Delorme inReach SE
Map 1:50000
Video equipment : Xiaomi Yi, 4 batteries, Panasonic G7 and 3 batteries + our phones
Rope : 40m mountaineering 7.9 mm
Personal equipment :
Sleeping bag : Simond Makalu Down -10°
Quechua bag liner
Mattress : Foam 11mm with aluminum insulation (this was a long decision to not go inflatable)
Backpacks : Quechua Symbium 80+10L
Shoes : I think some Nepal GTX
Lightweight shoes : Basic mid-height hiking, or trail shoes
Flip flops
Complete merino underbody : legs + long sleeves chest
Polar Fleece
Down jacket
Waterproof jacket : in our cases, Vaude Aletsch 3
Pants : Simond Mountaineering
Gloves : Simond Mountaineering
Silk under-gloves
buffs
high socks + warm socks
Crampons
Hiking poles
Harness made of slings
Ice Axe
2 small ropes
2 ice screws
6 karabiners
2 slings
Glacier sunglasses + suncream
Knife, paracord, survival blanket
Ski goggles if you want them
Food : here is what we planned back then per person, don't remember if we respected it 1:1
18 dried meals
900g almond
900g porridge
9 soup
s
2 tea bags
50 cereals bars
9 vitamin tablet
s
9 chocolate tablets
200 g sugar
in various forms
cookies
Overall weight : I think we started between 21 and 23 kg in the backpacks. When we were done, it was between 13 and 15.
Great video👍🏻
what kind of hardshell jackets you used?
Thank you for your feedback ! :) We had the Vaude Aletsch III. (Sympatex membrane).
Great video and quality! What tent did you have and were you satisfied with it?
Hi,
Thanks !
We had the Simond Tent S3 www.simond.com/makalu-tent-s3-id_8319305
Happy with it! It has 4 poles, and you can enter from both side, which is convenient when you are three guys ;) Vestibules are ok to put your stuff.
As you can see on the video, it survived the storm and 80km/h wind.
For sure it is not lightweight but for the price, this is a great product.
C'est quoi votre tente?? Une Decathlon ?
5:50 what's happening?
Great video.Which shoes did you use?
Hello !
We had the la sportiva phantom 6000 (comfortable) and Asolo AFS 8000 (not that comfortable)
Way more than enough, our feet were warm and dry :)
Smooth Adventure great. thank you 😊👍
Jalur yang dibuka oleh orang indonesia. Indonesian route
Hi ! Unfortunately, not sure we fully understood that :D
Is that area safe to travel too, what’s the main religion in that region
It's safe. Сhristianity and Islam.
Islam you say ? Think I’ll pass
Hi there! We agree, we think it's quite safe in these mountains.. at least we didn't feel threatened at all :). Cheers
Smooth Adventure thanks I’ll come over in the summer is access a problem
@@constantineemperor5364 locals are very friendly. safe traveling