Now that Mrs.O. has shared her thoughts on "oil spray rust proofing," what is your excuse? If you live in the rust belt what is the resistance to be proactive in slowing down the corrosion? We can only see our side of the coin but are very interested in how you see it and what you think. Let us know! -Eric & Vanessa O. PS: If you already spray "oil" what is your favorite brand or recipe?
Nobody thinks or worries about rust until a mechanic tells them the car is junk. Mostly because cars are designed to stay nice looking up top with zero cares given to the underside. As I am my own warranty and have lost several vehicles to corrosion in my youth, I am a huge fan of spraying as much oil on your car as possible!! Juat like all other regular maintenance it pays off in the long run. I use Rust Check on cars that I spray myself, the newer ones get Krown annually. I'm likely gonna change to The Film once I run out of the Rust Check though.
Hey Eric and Vanessa, I live about 1 1/2 hrs from you guys and fully understand what NY salty roads can do to a vehicle. I have a 2019 Chevy Trail Boss with Fluid Film applied.. It’s still in excellent shape. “but” as you well know Eric… ya gotta love when you need to service it as that FluidFilm gets on you like neverSeize.. It’s on your ear, your elbow and so many other places. 😂🤣 Take Care guys and keep up the great videos. !
Here in Denmark it also a must to rustproff your vehicle. There is different brands like Suwo, Pava and Dinitrol. Thank you for your videos! and greatings from Denmark.
I'll be honest I'm the cheap bastard that'll use old motor oil on the undercarriage, inside the doors and such I use fluid film. Still need to weld in new rockers this summer though cause there's just no way to stop these Duramax's from turning to dust under there.
I personally see a lot of reasons why people don’t spray an oil undercoating on my own channel. The biggest one is what you were alluding to with Mrs O. people don’t think it actually works. Too many people were burned by the black tar type undercoating to believe that there is a completely different type of undercoating thought process that actually works. The other sticking point that I see personally is people being fearful about rubber parts degrading. Even if I had to replace every single rubber bushing/hose/boot after 10 years it’s still a LOT cheaper than replacing both subframes and the rockers on any vehicle. The other common concern that I see is, I don’t want to get all oily working on my car. This one believe it or not, comes from a lot of professional mechanics. If you didn’t want to get dirty, this probably wasn’t a good career path for you. They always complain about how dirty the car is but never seem to notice that all the hardware actually comes apart without reaching for the torch. Making the job easier puts more money in their pockets. I guess wiping your hands or wearing gloves is less convenient than reaching for the torch, cutting off fasteners, and spending time sourcing new hardware... 🤦♂️ The people that get it, get it. The people that don’t you’ll never convince them. People have started questioning whether my results are faked because they have been so good. It's not worth my aggravation to deal with some of them. Just my $.02
I think it's Ziebart that gave undercoating a bad name for once it dries, it tends to crack, letting in moisture so it allows moisture to get in behind the coating, rusting the car out, even faster than it would normally if you didn't do anything at all, but something like Krown will extend the life of the car by several years before it succumbs to the rust, but with the price of cars these days, I think it's preferable. One reason I like living on the west coast, unless out ON the coast itself is cars here can go decades and not rust out.
Exactly, back in the 70’s and 80’s new car dealerships were pushing the old black tar type of undercoating that was actually trapping moisture, dirt salt and everything else making it worse. I think many folks may think the new oil type products are the same as those of the past.
That's stupid considering how expensive cars are. By letting the cars rot they will have less money, in the long term, to selfishly spend on themselves.
People have not figured out that responsibility enhances self-worth and builds personal pride. It makes you a more formidable person and ultimately leads to happiness. Maybe some day some of you will figure this out. ----Doozer
I live just south of yall in rust belt. Owned more autos than I can count on 2 hands and both feet. My Pap worked for Ford in Ohio next to Lake Erie. His coworker drove a post ww2 sedan. Pap asked him 1 day how he kept it from rusting out. He sis mix in an old pot 1 quart of old oil, same of old trans fluid, 1 tube or tub of grease and 1 wax gasket for a toilet. Heat and mix then spray or brush on etc however u want with whatever u want. For $6 and old fluids u can protect urr auto from all rust and make her last a lifetime. That old sedan was still going in the 80s 20 years after my pap learned what the old man said. He used it, my dad does this, I do it and now showed my kids how to do this. Most waxs we buy or rust proofing does not last long, or work long. Always a have to apply a few times in a year. I've sprayed and brushed this on many autos, mowers, farm, logging etc. Whatever its on it will stay, will not rust and will be there for years to come. The old farmers who would use oil all over and drive down a dusty road was on the right path. Oils just to runny. By heating and mixing all this it will stick like snot on a winter day. Also for doors u can do same but I use mineral, baby oil or melted Vaseline. Tape drains after cleaning of coarse, fill up 2 inches and let set a few days. Then drain and save for a few years later. This rustproofing does work but u have to get it done every year. This old way it will last year's. All for some old oils and fluids and $6 worth of grease and wax gasket. I'd sell it if I could but can't make all this stuff easily so I just pass it along. Make a 360 degree nozzle by drilling a few holes in a cap, pipe etc so it will spray 360 and u will be done in 30 min. Or buy a nozzle for $10.
All it takes is watching an episode of Just Rolled In to realize that there are 3 types of people: 1) Those who truly take care of their cars 2) Those who don't take care of their cars 3) Those who have no business taking care of their cars.
@@GrumsPlace Those would also be the people in #2. If you don't take care of it, you really have no business owning it...or taking it on the road where your lack of care might put the safety of others at risk.
I have members of my own family who think I'm too obsessive on oil changes, thinking it's still 1975 and it's a waste. Mrs O hits the nail on the head. And, Eric, you're on the ball too because we've ALL been made cynical about all the *junk* that's being sold out there for everything from wealth to health to happiness. You guys are fantastic, and thanks!!!
Its true that there are so many scams in so many areas of life that you just never know for sure whats a scam and whats not so you just treat everything like its a scam. I wont do or buy anything until I find multiple counts of evidence ssying its not a scam and even then you have shill posters and pictures can be modified. Uncut video proof is about the only proof to trust and that if what the person is videoing cant be mocked up or modified to look legit but really isnt. It's actually quite disturbing and disgusting that so many people have no morals, ethics, integrity and are rarely held accountable for it.
The car manufacturers sold people a bill of goods when synthetic oils became popular. I remember adds saying that you only have to change your oil every 15,000 miles. What a krok.
My dad is the same way i tell him like bruh oil gets dirty with coke and possible dirt too. If you ok with that running in your engine better off actually putting literal auto polish in the engine but before then the oil actually breaks down and gets watery and the engine blows itself like that too
@@jima3129 I just don't understand it. Oil is cheap. $50 every 5k is not a huge expense. Even if you believe that's unnecessary at most it's an extra $50-100 a year for most people. You can't even eat out at a sitdown anymore for that little money
@@jima3129 you can go 15k between changes but it all depends on how your driving. If your doing all highway miles with no abuse then 15k is doable. Your NOT gonna get 15k with city driving.
I believe that you both are spot on. We, the people, have been lied to for so long, and now it's so blatant that there is no trust anymore. Stay safe and God bless
I undercoat my cars with wire cable grease. That is cheap stuff, easy to apply and protects for about 5 years. I live in Bavaria/Germany where salt on the streets is also very common and necessary. Greetings from Bavaria and thank you for your great channel, Eric. Watch you for some years now and learned so much from you.
Fascinating! How do you apply the grease? Also, do you coat just the accessible under carriage or do you also have a way of getting it inside double walled fenders, quarter panels, and such? Thanks in advance for any reply you might give, and thanks for sharing your strategy/idea.
@@botchvinik8668 Hello. I remove all accessible underbody panels and the inner fenders. Then protect the brakes and the entire car with paint protection cover foil. Then heat up the grease a bit. I spray it with an underbody protection spray can, had to test several of them, not every spray can will work, just test some and find the best for you. For cavities I don't use it, because it does not move. It must be directly applied in a film of some millimeters on the surfaces. It will stay exactly where you spray it. For the cavities I use Fluid Film: First I spray a little bit of Fluid Film AS-R, but really only a mist. And the next day I spray generously Fluid Film NAS, which I also heat up a little bit, into the cavities. For the Fluid Film I use a cavity spray gun with a long spray nozzle. Result: never seen any rust anymore 😁
@@botchvinik8668 You're welcome. I strongly recommend wearing a painter's overall for the undercoating job because it is always a little mess. But one day of a mess means years of true rust protection. I forgot one thing in my answer given above: I clean the underbody before applying the cable wire grease with a brush and shop air. Then I treat existing rust with rust converter. For this I use Brunox Epoxy rust converter. That is excellent stuff. You can also if you want to do it the fast way apply the grease directly on rust, but I do not recommend this concerning the longevity of the protection. Have a nice weekend 🙂
As a Krown dealer in Atlantic Canada, I can tell you that it saves your vehicle and greatly reduces expensive electrical repairs. Not only the body is protected but brake ines , power steering lines etc are protected as well. It’s money in the bank.
@@tylerfochtman1578He wrote "Krown" which is another brand of underspray oil. People argue about which one's the best, but I bet it doesn't really matter, just pick one and apply it each fall. Or switch it up each year to diversify the benefits, maybe one flows better into crevices and stays there for a while.
Just my opinion: Under oiling helps but it isn't a silver bullet. It doesn't stop aluminum rim beads from leaking. It typically doesn't keep the newer boxed frames from rotting out. It doesn't do much for rockers, bed crossmembers, and fenders where dirt and debris collect inside the closed sections. My wife's Rav4 was oil coated every other year since 2009. I even did the inside of the rockers and doors. It still rotted out. I just sent a Trailblazer to the crusher that was always meticulously maintained, washed, and under oiled due to severe rust jacking under the strut mount.
I bought the professional application gun off Amazon and gave my Toyota Tundra a thorough coating last fall. I believe I was more thorough than a typical shop by spraying in more nooks & crannies that are easily overlooked. I spent $100 on the application gun w/ attachments, & used half a gallon of Fluid Film. $25 worth of Fluid Film each year to prolong the life of my daily driver is well worth it. Thank You, Mr O for recommending Fluid Film.
I remove the bumper front and back, wheel liners, all the plastics underneath for the first application then it just where it's needed following years. I also removed the interior but I needed to do body work and paint the roof so I had the oportunity to spray some in area that are inaccesible from the outside. I have a 08 Magnum and I live in canada, I got it in 2016, never been rustproofed before had few rust bubble, threat them with acid or cut and weld. So far it's holding strong. Recently I found a critical area that just gone, structuraly is fine, dodge use plastic that store water when the wheel turn, guess what happen 15 years later... I did repaint that area underneath on one side but the rust came from the inside. I did spray in that pocket where water could have enter but it was already too late and the rust proffing don't adhere well on flaky rust. Automaker should clearcoat the undercarriage, I did that when I removed the rear subframe, 5 years later not rust bubbles. I repainted the subframe the same way, acid then epoxy primer then color and finally clear coat. Did the new suspension part and they got no rust at all
@@tylerfochtman1578 A quality clear coat is needed not the thing you get in a can like duplicolor, that doesnt hold nothing. a 2 part clear with hardner. The USC spray max is a good start but that there is CC that resist sand blast like the crystal clear 2k chip guard. I still spray oil undercoating over clearcoated part unless it's a control arm it's not worth it. If done right the first it won't rust but when it start it's a cancer it's still stagnant somewhere ready to pop back out again
I never knew about undercoating until I worked at a place that used it on their trucks. I think a lot of people just don’t know, and a lot that do think it’s snake oil like every other snake oil product out there. And it’s one of those products that takes a decade to show how effective it is. That’s a lot of commitment to a product if you don’t know anyone that’s already using it. Also let’s be real, if everyone used it, the prny would have banned it a long time ago for “environmental safety”
@@8avexp Traditional undercoating works only in one thin parameter: if the vehicle has never been driven in the rain, has not been transported on a car carrier to the dealer in the rain, or has not been sitting at a car dealership in the rain. If any of those things have happened, the asphalt-based or rubber-based undercoatings simply seal in the already rusting parts on the underside of the car. Things then get much worse if it has been driven in the salt. The undercoating makes it incredibly difficult to detect the rust until it is very advanced. The newer oil undercoatings are a godsend.
I used to live in Minnesota, I’ve never heard of rust proofing your vehicle. I’ve heard of undercoating them but not rustproofing, also, never heard of fluid film until watching SMA’s channel. Thx Eric & Mrs. O. you guys are funny 😂
Always heard of undercoating from the dealership but never heard of spraying your car with oil. 30 years in the salt belt and only recently heard of spraying your vehicle undercarriage. The majority of people don't keep a car for more than 5 years and don't want to spend money on rust proofing a car there going to get rid in a few years
I’m from wisconsin and I’ve also never heard of the oil coatings until watching SMA. The nearest place that does it around me looks to be over an hour away. I don’t know if it would be worth it on my 2010 corolla but i’ll certainly be doing it on my next vehicle.
Realistically, most people simply don't care. They don't think they're going to have the car long enough for it to matter, they obviously don't care about the next person who owns it, and most people nowadays don't fix their own vehicles. Being Hands-On and showered with rust under a vehicle will most definitely change your attitude. So basically they don't have an incentive. Now, there are still people in the world that don't need an incentive to do the right thing, but I believe, unfortunately, the majority do not possess that trait. Excellent synopsis by her through, very much correct.
I run a small shop in upstate New Hampshire and our rust is terrible. I offer undercoating services using New Hampshire Oil Undercoat and I personally believe in it. What I have found with my customers, is lack of education that these products are out there. I have found that the customers, once I get them to think of it as part of their maintenance schedule, get it done every year and dont mind spending the $225 that it costs at my shop. I think it comes down to trying to educate people on the products as well as not making them feel like your trying to take advantage of them.
With all the negative hype on rust proof undercoating that people hear able from dealers, it will be a challenge to have them see that what you do is different than someone spraying rhino liner on the underside of their car
Here in the PRVT, I think people feel that protecting against rust is a lost cause - nothing will stop the rot. Then there are the older rustproofing products that actually made the problem worse- there was one that formed sort of a plastic barrier that cracked and trapped the salt up against the frame, guaranteeing terrific rust problems. I used to use gear oil, but have switched to Fluid Film cuz my local guy recommended it. It works.
@@barrys_shop I've watched a ton of South Main Auto videos, and Mr. O talks quite extensively about Fluid Film. He even has a dedicated playlist for Fluid Film. One major advantage it has over oil and/or diesel is that it is safe on all the rubber under your car, whether it's rubber bushings or hoses, Fluid Film won't degrade them like petroleum based products will.
I'm in Ireland where we get plenty salt on the roads to rust out our chariots. Best cure I can give you is when you service your car you use your old engine oil. Pour it through a paint filter and mix t with white vinegar. Then spray the underside of the car with a simple window cleaner pray bottle. Love your videos
Until I saw your video about Krown a few years ago, I had never heard of it before here in MI, even being a "car guy". Ziebart was always the thing I heard about, but since your video, I had 5 or 6 friends and family Krown their cars. This is the second year, and talking to the guy there he says he cannot believe the growth rate of the business over the past year so the word is getting out. Thank you Eric O.
The business growth is likely proportional to inflation, and the crazy market. The average used car payment is reaching $950 to $1000 a month. Most households can't afford this, so making thier car last suddenly has become a priority.
I'm located in Canada and all my cars are sprayed yearly. To me, it's like changing to winter tires... However, you and Mrs. O both make compelling arguments as to why many don't do it. Historically, many companies used the "crappy stuff" and gave the practice a bad rap.
I’m Canadian too eh and I’m religious about oil spraying all the cars I have owned since they were new. Maybe there’s some truth to Mr “0”’s comment on Canadians. Oil spraying and saying sorry all the time is part of being from the great white north...
I’m in South Western southern Ontario. I’ve been oil spraying everything I drive since the mid 1970’s. For the last 20 years my mechanic was doing my spraying but unfortunately he retired last year. I found another place that seems to be pretty good. Cost is currently about $90 per vehicle. Since I tend to keep vehicles for 20 years it makes sense. If you trade your car every 5 to 7 years it likely doesn’t make too much sense.
@@Ghostinthedark100 "No evidence"?!?! Google "Canadian armed forces corrosion control research". Not only they found it EXTREMELY effective, but they also tested which one is the best. Bottom line: "Corrosion free formula 3000" is in the first place, Krown in a close 2nd.
Northern Vermont here , and definitely my area is in the rust belt! I absolutely spray the under side and interior body panels for rust prevention. In 12 years mine are still really good for having zero to very little rust. Mine are not going to the junk yard and mine are still worth many thousands of dollars. I spray my vehicles myself , but even if I had to pay out a couple of thousand dollars over the life of the vehicle it is a real good investment!
Thank you Eric for talking about the lies. Our children our now taught to lie and seem to have picked up the habit of doing that automatically. Lies are all over the news. Lies are told by most politicians. It has become normal in our country and society for people to completely ignore honesty and lie without any thought whatsoever. l have a great deal of respect for you, the way you run your family and business with honesty.
Hello Eric, I am from the baby boomer generation and yes I live in NYS. I had owned various trucks in the past. All had over 2 hundred thousand miles on them. I took all on the beach and surf casted. Washed the under bellies when I got home. Prior to winter , i treated them with oil. None had rust. I think generally people just don't know had to care for their vehicles or are afraid to do so. My generation got a car and opened the hood to see how things worked. I think those days are gone. Thats why we have more waste then ever. Just ask people, how many cell phones, computers etc have they owned in the last 10 years. Sorry for going on so long. Eric you do a great job, never change. Thank you!!.
I live about an hour north of Eric here in NY, rust and rot is absolutely terrible around here. I've had my truck sprayed by Krown every year since it was brand new, never saw salt before being oil sprayed. I was skeptical too, but now at the six year mark I really notice what a good job the Krown has done at fending off the crusties. No frame rust, no body rust. It's remarkable when comparing my truck to others of similar age that haven't been sprayed. I plan on driving this truck for at least ten years, and I know that it'll certainly make it that long, and still look pretty good too thanks to the oil spray.
I drive on the beach every weekend. I live in the rustbelt. I have my truck steam cleaned and fluid filmed every year. Worth the investment..5 years old not a spot of rust or corrosion. Learned about this while watching your videos. Thanx a ton from PA.
This channel is not only informative to fix our own cars, but is so special because it is a family business and to see him working in cars and including his wife and family makes the more special. Thank you for all what you teach us have learned so much from you.
Woolwax and Fluid Film fan here 12+ years (FJ and 4R) If you can do it from the beginning, do it - if you can do it yourself, do it - crawl under there and get to know your vehicles underside intimately. If not have it done. Lanolin products are amazing at fighting rust, I use it on wheels also during the winter also, looks a bit messy but cleans up like new in the spring and most importantly has been protected.
50 years ago when I lived in Maine, undercoating was a newish thing and was expensive and largely ineffective. If I still lived in the rust belt, I'd spend $200 a year to have my vehicle treated... That's a fraction of the cost of insurance! Good topic!
I never had heard of oil spraying a car until I began watching your channel. To answer your question, I think both and you the lovely Mrs. O are absolutely correct in the reason why people do not oil spray their car. Thank you for another awesome and educational video. Much love n prayers from upstate PRNY.🙏💜
Honestly the hard part about rust preventative is finding someone competent who is willing to do it. I've tried twice the past two years and both times I got the "Craigslist rebuild" level of application, just tssst tssst tssssssst on the exposed surfaces, nothing inside the frame rails or in any of the hard to reach but quick to rust areas.
A lot of good points on reasons why oil undercoating isn't done....and I'll add another one...divorce. It's a truly disgusting job if you do it properly plus it makes maintenance horrible afterwards....everything in the garage gets slimy and grimy...tools, people. Then it spreads..., the house carpet, the cat, the paint round the wall switches...even the bedsheets (after all, the stuff is designed not to wash off). So while it certainly stops the rust...I drive an '88 Grand Marquis and a '98 Exploder in the rust belt and the frames and bodywork are fine....but it ruins everything else....drive, house furnishings....and eventually ones marriage. 😢
A Canadian here from Ontario. I Krown all my vehicles. My vehicles last way longer and I spend less on things like brake lines, rusty sensors etc. However, when you buy a new car from a new car dealership and tell them you're going to oil it they make it sound like that's the worst thing you can do because they have their own agenda. That may be why some people don't do it. A car may not be an investment but letting something you spend 30K+ on rot out in less than 10 years doesn't make sense.
The dealers around here (London ON) sell oil undercoating at a 200% markup :) Also, manufacturers with rust warranty (VW/Audi) will not warranty rust if the undercoaters drill access holes in the door sills.
Love your professional humor :D respect from Poland By the way i am gonna spray my car with lanolin for rust protection. I also thought about acid-free petroleum jelly(great rust protection) but i decided to use lanolin as i see that lanolin based products are best rust protection for the car like Fluid Film or Lanotec. Mrs.O is such a smart lady :)
I think Mrs. O is 100% correct. It's easy for guys like you and I to take for granted that it's natural for us to try and figure out how to prevent it in the first place. But I know most people's thought is 'When are they going to make cars that don't rot out?'.
Part of it is that the exterior body on so many vehicles hold up very well. What they don’t see doesn’t bother them. I have seen many vehicles go to scrap because of rusted frames and underbody, with the exterior looking perfect. Some people don’t like a product like Krown because it is so messy. Some kind of rustproofing is definitely needed in the rustbelt.
Daughter had a 2005 Subaru Forester that looked great on the outside, but had rotted out subframe in the front. She lives in the PRNY and luckily her mechanic at the time located a used subframe from a non rust belt state and replaced it at half the cost of new Subby parts. A few months ago one of the lower control arms broke due to rust so she junked the car. Didn’t want to spend more money on an old car that had limited life left.
Hi everybody. I really like watching your videos. I'm 82 and live in Mesa, Arizona, and have never taken a car to the garage. However the era of bailing wire fixes is gone. So with my scanner and a little knowledge, and people like you, I have been able to keep our five vehicles going. Please all of you in the NE, rust proof your cars. They make it down here and we have to contend with the rust. Thank you so much for your excellent videos. God bless you. Ed Say hi to your wife.
Yep after 47 years on this earth I finally went stupid and bought brand new dream truck this year, and first thing I did was protect with NH OIL mineral oil base. Being from Minnesota i actually didn't know this was a thing til I been watching Eric. Thank you
As a person who comes from and lives in the vehicle disintegration zone of northwestern Ontario I have plenty of experience in this area…I believe you are correct in saying so many people have been lied to about so many of these gimmicks that they simply don’t buy into the rust protection. Sadly there are effective methods out there if they are applied correctly! It’s all fine and well to find KROWN or kroil and have it applied but also you must find a place that will apply it properly and correctly and where you need it not just where you see it. I’ve had people that have had ‘rust protection’ applied poorly and will never return as it was splashed all over and did nothing to stop critical rust. You must find a reputable place that really knows the industry and not ‘joe’s mechanical, lawn care and carpet installation’. And for gosh sakes do it ‘from new’!! If a vehicles spends even a year or two in the ‘acid zone’ before its first application, unfortunately they have already started rusting from within. This leads me to another common belief that vehicle companies are using poorer and poorer metals and alloys when building these vehicles so people have the ‘what’s the point? attitude unfortunately. So as you can see it’s not just a simple subject overall. Personally I would protect mine with the ‘oil application’ and regularly and I would encourage others to do the same..it helps in vehicle longevity and helps maintain resale value when there is still metal there to buy. Wow, this is almost as long as some videos. 😮 j/k lol 😆 Keep makin these awesome videos and we’ll keep watching them…they’re great!!
I used Fluid Film and then Wool Wax to keep my Jeep XJ on the road as a 80 mile/day daily driver in Central New York. Successfully. I tried to educated all of my friends on how important it was up here. I even offered to help them do it. Of all my friends, only one headed the advice and got their car treated. The rest were very cynical. Not lazy, or a money issue, but thought it was snake oil. I tried.
Yup. When I first moved to CNY I asked a UPS driver how they keep thier trucks from rusting out so I could use it on my 1968 Ford F100. They said is was mainly an oil spray, and then certain areas they use a wax type spray. The wax is sprayed on areas that are not exposed to pebble & rock strikes. Like the cowl, tops of the strut towers etc. The wax can last 3 to 5 years. So it makes sense to use it those areas. The oil sprays are self healing. Making them better for areas exposed to rock strikes. The only downside is the need to apply it every fall.
@@jamesl9686 I have had horrible luck with WD40. It dries very quickly, and washes away with road spray. The thick oils like Flid Film, Crown, New Hampshire Oil, etc are sticky & don't wash away as easily. So they last about 1 to 1 & half years.
@@jamesl9686 WD40 isn't a solvent in the respect that most understand it. It is a very thin oil with additives to help improve it's ability to drive out water. Yes WD40 "breaks down" other petroleum products, but all petroleum based products do this. It's the equivalent to calling water a solvent because it breaks down & thins other water based solutions. SAE 30 or 40 will only marginally increase it's viscosity. Both still wash off from road spray far easier then the purpose formulated rust proofing oils. Plus SAE 30 & 40 do not self heal like the purpose formulated rust proofing oils do. In the end you end up spending less money applying the purpose formulated rust proofing oils & waxes. The increased maintenance of a custom WD40 mix eliminates the precieved costs savings. Both in the increased quantity of product needed, and time taken to inspect & reapply as needed. Add to this that an increasing number of municipalities & states banning the application of motor oils to frames & chassis for environmental reasons. New Hampshire Oil is food grade compliant, none toxic product. Plus it doesn't stink. I 'm not sure about the lanolin based oils, like Fluid Film, but I wouldn't be surprised that it would epa compliant. It's one of things ware the homemade version provides a false sense economy. New Hampshire Oil does sell a nice application spray gun. Which helps keep you from having to pay for someone to apply it for you. The product pricing is very reasonable when you take into account the savings over the use of a homemade version. I am all for self sufficientency, and making things vs store bought. But there are times when the purchased product is so much more superior to the homemade version. That it makes little sense to not go with the purchased purpose built products. The only exception is if the purpose formulated product is unavailable & on back order.
@@KLondike5 yes, but the question is, which is better to use. A thin oil that suffers from washout, and is incapable of self healing. Which in turn ends up requiring multiple reapplications, smells, and is often banned for use in this manner by municipalities, and State governments due to negative environmental impact. OR.... One that is specifically formulated for this use, is food grade compliant making it 100% environmentally safe, doesn't stink, is self healing from rock strikes and such, is thick enough to not suffer from washouts, etc. All of which makes it far cheaper not only for that season, but for the whole year? There is a time & place for home spun solutions. Due to the fact that the purposely formulated ones are readily available, this isn't one of those times. Don't get me wrong. I'm a cheap penny pincher. But there comes a point when cheaping out up front ends up costing you 3 to 5 times more then if you just bit the bullet & dealt with the upfront cost in the first place. 😂
Had problems with the rubber undercoating also. Even using rustoleum does not hold up. Surface was scuffed up and cleaned. Was disappointing. Even seen Por15 fail. They used to sell this thing that worked off the battery. Electrical way of changing the molecules or ions. Even a few dealers recommended them. Think a few got rich off it. Did not help. People very skeptical now. Wasted money on it before. Seen a few videos on fluid film. Thinking of trying it. Hate to do it again every year. You still think fluid film it is effective? Best chance of slowing it down. Thank You.
There are studies that show that people are inherently terrible at thinking about the future. It's the same reason people don't exercise or eat healthy, etc. - they don't fully comprehend future problems. I'd imagine that is at play here as well. Price, lack of knowledge about the process, lack of surety of future problems. As a Canadian, undercoating was kind of "passed down knowledge", at least in my household - it's just maintenance that you do on your vehicle. Videos like yours help - education is key!
I have been a mechanic for 42 years and have to say I have learned somethings watching your channel. My shop is in Mass and we have the same rust issues as Avoca which is a Village I spent a lot of time in as a kid as my grandparents lived there, lived on South Main street, and my father grew up there. Keep the good videos, advice and tips coming
We use LPS 3 on aircraft as a rust inhibitor. it comes in drums and aerosol cans. It worked well on my vehicles. Stays on good for a few seasons. It’s a wax based product that cures onto the surface and doesn’t wash off easy.
You taught me about fluid film!! I agree with Mrs. O, in that not too many people know about it. It’s not a service in the MidWest. But watching you diagnose and fixing cars lends to your character, that I trust what you say. You are an outstanding mechanic, so why wouldn’t take your advice?! Thanks for how you do your job!
We moved to northern Minnesota (also road salted, but not in summer) and immediately noticed the rusty cars. I immediately followed your advice had our new car done. They use a product around here, called "Waxoyl" with a 3M product inside the doors, rocker panels and other boxed-in errors. I'm REALLY glad to have seen your videos on the subject. You've saved me thousands of dollars.
Great video, I started spraying fluid film on my car and my wife’s car every time I’m under them, it was one of your videos a few years ago that got me on board, my dad is a body guy and he would always use a mix of bar and chain oil and something else to undercoat cars when I was younger.
I just bought a 2020 Chevy Silverado with 18000 miles the first thing i did is had it fluid filmed. I live in northern Ohio west of Cleveland. in our area they use a lot of brine or beet juice and salt. In my opinion that stuff sticks to everything and eats the under side of a vehicle out in a few years. I believe in hot oiling and or fluid film. i just sold my 2006 GMC Canyon it had no rust because I had it hot oiled almost every year. Denny D.
In the UK we also have salt problems because of snow and ice on our roads, So we underseal our cars from new. One popular system is the Waxoyl one. It self-heals stone strikes and also creeps inside chassis sections etc. Unprotected cars soon rust out. And forgive me but your wife is not only a real beauty but pretty smart and well spoke too. I'll get my hat and coat shall I? Love your videos and the explanations that go with thjem, very professional.
Thanks for Posting ! Lived in the salt belt many years ago in New England and every car I owned, none of them new all had rust issues. Inspections were every six months and almost every shop had a license to inspect them. Seemed as long as a bunch of money was spent to patch em up they would put stickers on em for ya. Some cars just couldn’t pass and off they went to be crushed and turned into scrap. Was very costly to own in the area. There should be a better way to make the roads safer without trashing millions of cars doing it. My 2 cents.
Great content Eric. YOU sold me on Fluid Film. I now preach about it folks I know. I grew up in southeast, WI. Land of winter white roads... Not from snow, but from SALT !!! These days they drizzle a ultra Corrosive chemical in attempt to prevent ice buildup & to aid in the melting of snow, ice & your undercarriages. Historically, all of my vehicles lasted a couple hundred Thousand miles because I maintained them but no matter the method, they ultimately fell to rust. Dealers were ripping folks off with Ziebart, etc. All of the do it yourself black rubbery tar-like rustproofing products just held moisture in place to exacerbate the corrosion within. Now I live in New Mexico and a rusty vehicle is never to be seen here. Incredible. I STILL use Fluid-Film on my aluminum bodied F150 but primarily for the frame & all steel based components. (Amazing how much plastic there is on vehicles now too!!) My 2018 truck has 109k miles on it and I intend to keep for a Long Long time given the ridiculous prices of new trucks now. Replacing many of the horribly corroded parts on my wife's 2010 Jeep now too. Everything new gets Fluid-Film. Be well Sir.
WD 40 is not a penetrating oil although so many people used it as such that the manufacturer added that word to the label. Many years ago I acquired a list of the many things WD40 could be used for and penetrating oil was not one of them. Who knew? Great video, as usual. Thanks.
I use CRC and other spray silicone oil under my truck to coat everything. Also use the spray car wax under the truck as coating. Also if there is rust spots I paint them with silver or aluminum, or black spray paint as needed. The spray oil does for the most part protect the metal parts, electrical, rubber etc. Been doing spray oil for years and it has been working for me. Note: it takes 6, 8, or 10 cans of spray oil to do the job and about 10 cans of silicone spray oil costs me about $50.00. Peace.
My Chevy Tahoe is rust free at 20 years old. Still in mint like condition. It was the best investment I ever made into a vehicle. I couldn't even imagine the financial hardship of replacing a vehicle every 7 to 12 years due to rust.
Do our vehicles every year cost $135 ea with Oil Guard my veh just this am had a winter service-oil change and checkover! Mechanic told me that my 2012 Journey was excellent and that I keep my vehicle in top shape-cost $200 for service ! Here in Kingsville,Ontario with salt it is a must.
Glad to see that you have now started using induction heating. I have been using it for the last 8vyears. My unit is not as fancy, but works just as well. As an ASE Master Tech with L1 and 57 years of experience I would love to see more people using these units.
I think there's another factor to consider here - so many people have been burned by the dealers with their "rustproofing and scotch guarding" that they are resistant to listening about other products now. Kind of like the "lifetime protective paint finish" of several years ago - yeah, it was a good product for a few years, then you were no better off. We don't have the rust issues that the PNY has, but I used some Fluid Film on my snow wheels last year and discovered that the difference was beyond amazing when it came time to go back to the summer rims, so I have used it now in a few of more rust/corrosion prevalent areas on my rigs. As you said, Eric - there's so much media hype sometimes, who do you believe or trust?
Yeah this is similar to Eric’s point about “everyone’s lying” but I think you specifically address the problem. In my own mind (here in a southern state where it’s less important), when I hear the words “rust proofing” my subconscious mind automatically says “scam”. Today I understand it’s more nuanced than that, but I completely agree with you that the term has been ‘spoiled’ to a degree for many people.
50 years ago or so, when I started driving, in NE Wisconsin. Our biggest problem with the salt and snow, was the exhaust system. It rusted out pretty fast, seemed like every few years or so, you replaced the muffler and pipes. Course, we never had new cars, they were all used vehicles, until I went and joined the Navy. I was no longer eating my folks out of house and home, lol. Good info Eric and Mrs. O. , thanks.
So Eric after watching your past videos on installing crown rustproofing I have done my pick up truck. The cost was $150. The problem was the nearest dealership for crown was two hours away. I love coding my truck with that preserve it and I actually didn’t know that stuff Existed until I watched your video
I’ve been in aviation my whole life. I own a Cessna 150 that was built in 1972 to a completely different design philosophy, that being - it cannot fail. All metal structures are made from “Alclad” - 2024 aluminum with pure AL coated to each side. The permanent oxide coating protects it from further degradation. All attached components (engines, accessories, avionics, wheels/brakes etc) are easily replaceable, rebuildable, and incredibly durable. Cars by contrast are consumable products subject to taste and the manufacturers desire to sell 12 million units per year - you can’t do that if you build them like airplanes. I drive a 1996 Tercel coupe with “the big 1-5” and a 4 speed manual - oil sprayed every year. It’s not allowed to die.
I live in WV and we don't have a much snow so of course we don't have as much salt or rust as you, but it still a HUGE problem. I learned about Krown on your channel years ago, so we drive 2 vehicles to PA to get ours sprayed with Krown every year. (about 8 hour round trip. closest place to us) I have learned a TON from your channel. Thank you so much Eric.
Eric, I lived in the Rochester, NY area for 31 plus years and I did oil my cars my self. Used motor old oil, it did a super job. Applied it with the undercoating tool from Harbor Fright. My Ford trucks and cars held up better than most. You are correct, most people feel it's a waste of $$$$$.
When I was doing oil spraying I always reminded people that it doesn’t really stop rust but greatly slows it down. I was partial to no drip because it was less messy. I also give my thoughts on no drip and runny oil, both great products but both have a purpose while giving the same benefits . Good for Mrs O brining up about people liking entertainment more then the car. When business was good in late 80’s early 90’s I branched out into car sales with a lot of “ lease to own” people. It was apparent new stereo , mag wheels with new tires was more beneficial then making a car payment. Repossessed a lot of these vehicles.
I know here in the UK in the 80's and 90's there was a big push to sell undercoating that turned out to be worse than not doing it at all, being latex or bitumen based. So I think many people remember this or are warned by older relatives and don't get it done. It does seem that in the UK the manufacturers do a better job of it than in the PRNY but perhaps that is because they do the same over the whole country and for much of the US it would be a waste of time - rusting of cars was a big, big issue in the motor press in the 70s and 80s and rustproofing is still seen as a selling point in the UK. I always bought second hand cars, so I had to work with whatever I got, but I found that a treatment with Finnigans Waxoyl every 3-4 years would make the chassis and most of the panels last until something critical in the engine or drive train gave up. They salt the roads here quite aggressively so if you're hoping to run an older car you really need to do something.
I live in Webster, Texas. A couple of years ago, someone opened up a zeibart shop in a great location on a busy road. It has closed since then. Every time I'm underneath my truck, 95, I'm amazed by its lack of rust. I'm from Ohio, and anyone who can afford them drives beaters in the winter. Thanks Eric!
Thanks for the Sage advice Mrs O... When I lived in PRNY I found a protective spray product and used it on my New car. By golly it worked, Now this was 40 yrs ago. The only shop that would do corrosive protection undercoated, which used tar or some such. The stuff cracked and held salt to the metal. Good trick. Pop used to have the cars undercoated, And he replaced the rocker panels every 3 years. This was in the 50's. I think the oldest car he had was maybe 6 years old. Then he discovered buy a new car every 2 years. No more rust, well no more rusted out frames anyway. Finally he discovered the ultimate rust protection.... Florida!!! Me I left the PRNY, and Now live in The Free state of Alabama... No rust here either.
I understand where you are coming from after hours of watching your channel. I had a two bay shop in Calgary Alberta over a period of 4 years. I had many return customers. I had the entire or most of the employees coming to me from the downtown office building of 1600 Shell employees. I did exactly what you are doing, processing the eliminate possible causes.Keeping them all happy at a savings large.
Ny'er here. I bought a 5-gallon bucket of fluid film and cheap sprayer for 4 years ago now($210). About $30/year per vehicle to fluid film. My tractor/trailers/lawn mower all get a thin coat before winterizing. Very happy with the results.
In the UK, ACF50 is quite popular amongst motorcyclists for corrosion protection, particularly those that ride all year round. It does work quite well, but one does still need to keep on top of the chain and the brakes. The idea is come the warmer months, you wash it off and then reapply again before the next round of road salting com winter again happens.
I've seen you go the whole hog on fluid film coating the underneath and inside the doors and inner fenders etc, but I think in the UK, we would struggle to find someone to do it that we could trust to be as thorough as you are. In the UK they don't use liquid salt to de-ice the roads, we use granulated rock salt, so our cars do not rot out as badly as the PRNY. Good to see Mrs O, and thanks for your brilliant vids Eric. I wish more TH-camrs had your easy going and light hearted charm when presenting.
Hey Eric, great video man, love your commentary as you are working. Canadian fella here, bought an 09 Hondo Ridgeline that had been oil sprayed every year since new. It’s in amazing shape for it’s age and so much easier to work on. 👍
I am squinting my eyes, seeing you take down that evap - so much rust and dirt falling. lol. Keep doing the good work, I always enjoy watching your videos, learned so much.
Hi Eric, I think all the reasons you and Mrs. O gave are all valid. Another reason I think that people do not rust proof their vehicles is because they only see the painted body surfaces and with little rust on these surfaces they think the underside is also rust free. They have no clue what lurks below! These are obviously the people who never get underneath their vehicle.
It’s all marketing like everything else. And rarely is there an honest guy like you that tells folks what they really need or should really do. I use a combo of fluid film, PB Surface Shield and CRC Corrosion Inhibitor. Touch up once or twice a year. I can’t afford a new truck. Prices are ridiculous. Good vid. Thank you. And the Mrs. is correct.
Petroleum oil type spray is a superior product for undercoating vehicles because it "seeps" into cracks and crevices to prevent rust. I owned a 2000 Malibu for 18 years and used to have it RustChecked on a regular basis ( not yearly but based on inspection annually as to need for re-spraying. GM in '89, I think, used to coat their 1/2 ton frames with a heavy wax coating about a 1/4 inch thick. Many cars and trucks that have no protection and that are exposed to even a month of road salt are scrap in a few short years due to rust. You are doing EVERYONE a huge favor by promoting the use of rust proofing to double or triple the useful life of their vehicles. ( Despite complaints from some mechanics about this stuff dripping on them or covering everything under a vehicle!) 👍👍👍👍👍👍🔧🔧🔧🔧🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇
I'm more in favor of the wax coating, if done right. Always thought going from a C channel frame to a box frame with a bunch of holes in it was a dumb idea. Salt water goes in and stays there, called designed obsolescence - guaranteed to fail.
Iowan here. I wasn't aware of fluid film until i started watching your videos. Started spraying my 11 Subaru last year. Might have gotten it in time. My 08 Ford is probably a lost cause, but I'll spray it anyway in the hopes I can get a few more years out of it. I know I'm supposed to complain about what you're doing wrong here in the comments, but instead I'll thank you for doing what you do. I've learned about some techniques and tools that i probably wouldn't have otherwise. You made life easier keeping my old cars on the road and safe, and it's much appreciated.
I live in Florida now! Lived in Ct for 25 years and know exactly what you're talking about. Now I find here unless I park next to the ocean or submerge on the boat ramp, rust is not a problem here anymore. The salt air will wreak havoc though on your paint if you don't keep it clean and waxed!
Now that Mrs.O. has shared her thoughts on "oil spray rust proofing," what is your excuse? If you live in the rust belt what is the resistance to be proactive in slowing down the corrosion? We can only see our side of the coin but are very interested in how you see it and what you think. Let us know!
-Eric & Vanessa O.
PS: If you already spray "oil" what is your favorite brand or recipe?
Nobody thinks or worries about rust until a mechanic tells them the car is junk. Mostly because cars are designed to stay nice looking up top with zero cares given to the underside.
As I am my own warranty and have lost several vehicles to corrosion in my youth, I am a huge fan of spraying as much oil on your car as possible!! Juat like all other regular maintenance it pays off in the long run.
I use Rust Check on cars that I spray myself, the newer ones get Krown annually. I'm likely gonna change to The Film once I run out of the Rust Check though.
Hey Eric and Vanessa, I live about 1 1/2 hrs from you guys and fully understand what NY salty roads can do to a vehicle. I have a 2019 Chevy Trail Boss with Fluid Film applied.. It’s still in excellent shape. “but” as you well know Eric… ya gotta love when you need to service it as that FluidFilm gets on you like neverSeize.. It’s on your ear, your elbow and so many other places. 😂🤣 Take Care guys and keep up the great videos. !
Here in Denmark it also a must to rustproff your vehicle. There is different brands like Suwo, Pava and Dinitrol.
Thank you for your videos! and greatings from Denmark.
I'll be honest I'm the cheap bastard that'll use old motor oil on the undercarriage, inside the doors and such I use fluid film. Still need to weld in new rockers this summer though cause there's just no way to stop these Duramax's from turning to dust under there.
@@xtr0city 2006 GMC crew dirtymax... 408k miles.... and not a stitch of rust on it here in salty NH.
I personally see a lot of reasons why people don’t spray an oil undercoating on my own channel. The biggest one is what you were alluding to with Mrs O. people don’t think it actually works. Too many people were burned by the black tar type undercoating to believe that there is a completely different type of undercoating thought process that actually works.
The other sticking point that I see personally is people being fearful about rubber parts degrading. Even if I had to replace every single rubber bushing/hose/boot after 10 years it’s still a LOT cheaper than replacing both subframes and the rockers on any vehicle.
The other common concern that I see is, I don’t want to get all oily working on my car. This one believe it or not, comes from a lot of professional mechanics. If you didn’t want to get dirty, this probably wasn’t a good career path for you. They always complain about how dirty the car is but never seem to notice that all the hardware actually comes apart without reaching for the torch. Making the job easier puts more money in their pockets. I guess wiping your hands or wearing gloves is less convenient than reaching for the torch, cutting off fasteners, and spending time sourcing new hardware... 🤦♂️
The people that get it, get it. The people that don’t you’ll never convince them. People have started questioning whether my results are faked because they have been so good. It's not worth my aggravation to deal with some of them.
Just my $.02
Excellent! Now, you two should Collab.
SMA better give you that heart :)
I watched your undercoating vids and when I bought my new ram I immediately sprayed it with pb blaster surface shield 🛡 great stuff 👍
I think it's Ziebart that gave undercoating a bad name for once it dries, it tends to crack, letting in moisture so it allows moisture to get in behind the coating, rusting the car out, even faster than it would normally if you didn't do anything at all, but something like Krown will extend the life of the car by several years before it succumbs to the rust, but with the price of cars these days, I think it's preferable.
One reason I like living on the west coast, unless out ON the coast itself is cars here can go decades and not rust out.
Exactly, back in the 70’s and 80’s new car dealerships were pushing the old black tar type of undercoating that was actually trapping moisture, dirt salt and everything else making it worse. I think many folks may think the new oil type products are the same as those of the past.
Mrs. O is SPOT-ON! People would rather spend money on themselves selfishly and many times irresponsibly, than to take care of their vehicle.
They wanna look rich but not be rich. Being financially smart takes effort and time.
Yeah up, they're junkers is a money pit for any shop for matter.🤙😎
I agree to.
THIS. Is why I'm not an auto mechanic full time.
That's stupid considering how expensive cars are. By letting the cars rot they will have less money, in the long term, to selfishly spend on themselves.
"People like entertainment, not responsibility. "
Truth. Thanks, Mrs. O!
People have not figured out that responsibility enhances self-worth and builds personal pride. It makes you a more formidable person and ultimately leads to happiness. Maybe some day some of you will figure this out. ----Doozer
Not only is she wise, she's hot. 😉
I live just south of yall in rust belt. Owned more autos than I can count on 2 hands and both feet. My Pap worked for Ford in Ohio next to Lake Erie. His coworker drove a post ww2 sedan. Pap asked him 1 day how he kept it from rusting out. He sis mix in an old pot 1 quart of old oil, same of old trans fluid, 1 tube or tub of grease and 1 wax gasket for a toilet. Heat and mix then spray or brush on etc however u want with whatever u want. For $6 and old fluids u can protect urr auto from all rust and make her last a lifetime. That old sedan was still going in the 80s 20 years after my pap learned what the old man said. He used it, my dad does this, I do it and now showed my kids how to do this. Most waxs we buy or rust proofing does not last long, or work long. Always a have to apply a few times in a year. I've sprayed and brushed this on many autos, mowers, farm, logging etc. Whatever its on it will stay, will not rust and will be there for years to come. The old farmers who would use oil all over and drive down a dusty road was on the right path. Oils just to runny. By heating and mixing all this it will stick like snot on a winter day. Also for doors u can do same but I use mineral, baby oil or melted Vaseline. Tape drains after cleaning of coarse, fill up 2 inches and let set a few days. Then drain and save for a few years later. This rustproofing does work but u have to get it done every year. This old way it will last year's. All for some old oils and fluids and $6 worth of grease and wax gasket. I'd sell it if I could but can't make all this stuff easily so I just pass it along. Make a 360 degree nozzle by drilling a few holes in a cap, pipe etc so it will spray 360 and u will be done in 30 min. Or buy a nozzle for $10.
It is never a pointless video when Mrs. O shres your thoughts and wisdom!
Wise woman.
Tru words spoken! She gives class to the SMA Channel!
All it takes is watching an episode of Just Rolled In to realize that there are 3 types of people:
1) Those who truly take care of their cars
2) Those who don't take care of their cars
3) Those who have no business taking care of their cars.
4 types of people 1 to 3 above and 4 Those who have no business owning a car at all.
And also customer says what?
Seems 4 rings subframes are very susceptible to free optional feature, iron accelerated aging.
Haha spot on
@@GrumsPlace Those would also be the people in #2. If you don't take care of it, you really have no business owning it...or taking it on the road where your lack of care might put the safety of others at risk.
There are 3 kinds of people ... Those who can count, and those who can't ...
Come for the maintenance and stay for the humor! Thank you.
I have members of my own family who think I'm too obsessive on oil changes, thinking it's still 1975 and it's a waste. Mrs O hits the nail on the head. And, Eric, you're on the ball too because we've ALL been made cynical about all the *junk* that's being sold out there for everything from wealth to health to happiness. You guys are fantastic, and thanks!!!
Its true that there are so many scams in so many areas of life that you just never know for sure whats a scam and whats not so you just treat everything like its a scam.
I wont do or buy anything until I find multiple counts of evidence ssying its not a scam and even then you have shill posters and pictures can be modified. Uncut video proof is about the only proof to trust and that if what the person is videoing cant be mocked up or modified to look legit but really isnt. It's actually quite disturbing and disgusting that so many people have no morals, ethics, integrity and are rarely held accountable for it.
The car manufacturers sold people a bill of goods when synthetic oils became popular. I remember adds saying that you only have to change your oil every 15,000 miles. What a krok.
My dad is the same way i tell him like bruh oil gets dirty with coke and possible dirt too. If you ok with that running in your engine better off actually putting literal auto polish in the engine but before then the oil actually breaks down and gets watery and the engine blows itself like that too
@@jima3129 I just don't understand it. Oil is cheap. $50 every 5k is not a huge expense. Even if you believe that's unnecessary at most it's an extra $50-100 a year for most people. You can't even eat out at a sitdown anymore for that little money
@@jima3129 you can go 15k between changes but it all depends on how your driving. If your doing all highway miles with no abuse then 15k is doable. Your NOT gonna get 15k with city driving.
Yep, the quote of the day. “people like entertainment not responsibly “
I believe that you both are spot on. We, the people, have been lied to for so long, and now it's so blatant that there is no trust anymore. Stay safe and God bless
I undercoat my cars with wire cable grease. That is cheap stuff, easy to apply and protects for about 5 years. I live in Bavaria/Germany where salt on the streets is also very common and necessary. Greetings from Bavaria and thank you for your great channel, Eric. Watch you for some years now and learned so much from you.
Fascinating! How do you apply the grease? Also, do you coat just the accessible under carriage or do you also have a way of getting it inside double walled fenders, quarter panels, and such? Thanks in advance for any reply you might give, and thanks for sharing your strategy/idea.
@@botchvinik8668 Hello. I remove all accessible underbody panels and the inner fenders. Then protect the brakes and the entire car with paint protection cover foil. Then heat up the grease a bit. I spray it with an underbody protection spray can, had to test several of them, not every spray can will work, just test some and find the best for you. For cavities I don't use it, because it does not move. It must be directly applied in a film of some millimeters on the surfaces. It will stay exactly where you spray it. For the cavities I use Fluid Film: First I spray a little bit of Fluid Film AS-R, but really only a mist. And the next day I spray generously Fluid Film NAS, which I also heat up a little bit, into the cavities. For the Fluid Film I use a cavity spray gun with a long spray nozzle. Result: never seen any rust anymore 😁
@@Akadectra Wow, thank you muchly for that detailed explanation and directions. Appreciated!
@@botchvinik8668 You're welcome. I strongly recommend wearing a painter's overall for the undercoating job because it is always a little mess. But one day of a mess means years of true rust protection. I forgot one thing in my answer given above: I clean the underbody before applying the cable wire grease with a brush and shop air. Then I treat existing rust with rust converter. For this I use Brunox Epoxy rust converter. That is excellent stuff. You can also if you want to do it the fast way apply the grease directly on rust, but I do not recommend this concerning the longevity of the protection. Have a nice weekend 🙂
As a Krown dealer in Atlantic Canada, I can tell you that it saves your vehicle and greatly reduces expensive electrical repairs. Not only the body is protected but brake ines , power steering lines etc are protected as well. It’s money in the bank.
Wool wax, fluid film or what?
@@tylerfochtman1578He wrote "Krown" which is another brand of underspray oil. People argue about which one's the best, but I bet it doesn't really matter, just pick one and apply it each fall. Or switch it up each year to diversify the benefits, maybe one flows better into crevices and stays there for a while.
Just my opinion: Under oiling helps but it isn't a silver bullet. It doesn't stop aluminum rim beads from leaking. It typically doesn't keep the newer boxed frames from rotting out. It doesn't do much for rockers, bed crossmembers, and fenders where dirt and debris collect inside the closed sections. My wife's Rav4 was oil coated every other year since 2009. I even did the inside of the rockers and doors. It still rotted out. I just sent a Trailblazer to the crusher that was always meticulously maintained, washed, and under oiled due to severe rust jacking under the strut mount.
Considering it is only good for one year, you did a half job. Also once the rust starts a little bit of oil isn't going to stop it. Cheers
What were you using on the Rav Wes? If it was not environmentally responsible you don't have to answer 😅 or you can use code words....
2022 Maverick, fluid film as I learned on your channel from you , I am 69 and would like it to last as long as I do 🤔😊
I noticed the last time you had the Rae4 it had gone to shit. That was a 07 was it not ?
Yes it works but got to be done every year and I use wax oil mixed with a anti rust additive got a 30 year old 4x4 looks brand new under side
come for the content stay for the Mrs O commentary!!!
I'm up here in Canada and I never knew about the oil spray treatment, but my 06 grand caravan does it all by itself.
Self maintance, new concept?
I bought the professional application gun off Amazon and gave my Toyota Tundra a thorough coating last fall. I believe I was more thorough than a typical shop by spraying in more nooks & crannies that are easily overlooked. I spent $100 on the application gun w/ attachments, & used half a gallon of Fluid Film. $25 worth of Fluid Film each year to prolong the life of my daily driver is well worth it. Thank You, Mr O for recommending Fluid Film.
I remove the bumper front and back, wheel liners, all the plastics underneath for the first application then it just where it's needed following years. I also removed the interior but I needed to do body work and paint the roof so I had the oportunity to spray some in area that are inaccesible from the outside. I have a 08 Magnum and I live in canada, I got it in 2016, never been rustproofed before had few rust bubble, threat them with acid or cut and weld. So far it's holding strong. Recently I found a critical area that just gone, structuraly is fine, dodge use plastic that store water when the wheel turn, guess what happen 15 years later... I did repaint that area underneath on one side but the rust came from the inside. I did spray in that pocket where water could have enter but it was already too late and the rust proffing don't adhere well on flaky rust. Automaker should clearcoat the undercarriage, I did that when I removed the rear subframe, 5 years later not rust bubbles. I repainted the subframe the same way, acid then epoxy primer then color and finally clear coat. Did the new suspension part and they got no rust at all
@@ItsJust2SXTsnice thought to clear coat, but if a rock chips off the paint, it'll start rusting and leaching under the paint.
@@tylerfochtman1578 A quality clear coat is needed not the thing you get in a can like duplicolor, that doesnt hold nothing. a 2 part clear with hardner. The USC spray max is a good start but that there is CC that resist sand blast like the crystal clear 2k chip guard. I still spray oil undercoating over clearcoated part unless it's a control arm it's not worth it. If done right the first it won't rust but when it start it's a cancer it's still stagnant somewhere ready to pop back out again
toyota are super reliable but known for rust problems, so that was a great choice. that thing might out live you
All good except buy the 5 gallons of black I put 2 under the runner every October
I never knew about undercoating until I worked at a place that used it on their trucks. I think a lot of people just don’t know, and a lot that do think it’s snake oil like every other snake oil product out there. And it’s one of those products that takes a decade to show how effective it is. That’s a lot of commitment to a product if you don’t know anyone that’s already using it. Also let’s be real, if everyone used it, the prny would have banned it a long time ago for “environmental safety”
My father swore by undercoating. He always had his cars undercoated and it paid off.
@@8avexp Traditional undercoating works only in one thin parameter: if the vehicle has never been driven in the rain, has not been transported on a car carrier to the dealer in the rain, or has not been sitting at a car dealership in the rain. If any of those things have happened, the asphalt-based or rubber-based undercoatings simply seal in the already rusting parts on the underside of the car. Things then get much worse if it has been driven in the salt. The undercoating makes it incredibly difficult to detect the rust until it is very advanced. The newer oil undercoatings are a godsend.
Pretty simple you stain your wood deck. Help not to rot. Stain your vehicle to help it not to rot/decay.
Good job again as usual 👍
I used to live in Minnesota, I’ve never heard of rust proofing your vehicle. I’ve heard of undercoating them but not rustproofing, also, never heard of fluid film until watching SMA’s channel. Thx Eric & Mrs. O. you guys are funny 😂
Always heard of undercoating from the dealership but never heard of spraying your car with oil.
30 years in the salt belt and only recently heard of spraying your vehicle undercarriage.
The majority of people don't keep a car for more than 5 years and don't want to spend money on rust proofing a car there going to get rid in a few years
I’m from wisconsin and I’ve also never heard of the oil coatings until watching SMA. The nearest place that does it around me looks to be over an hour away. I don’t know if it would be worth it on my 2010 corolla but i’ll certainly be doing it on my next vehicle.
Realistically, most people simply don't care. They don't think they're going to have the car long enough for it to matter, they obviously don't care about the next person who owns it, and most people nowadays don't fix their own vehicles. Being Hands-On and showered with rust under a vehicle will most definitely change your attitude. So basically they don't have an incentive. Now, there are still people in the world that don't need an incentive to do the right thing, but I believe, unfortunately, the majority do not possess that trait. Excellent synopsis by her through, very much correct.
"Does anyone know where this goes" this made me chuckle hard, thanks Eric😂
I run a small shop in upstate New Hampshire and our rust is terrible. I offer undercoating services using New Hampshire Oil Undercoat and I personally believe in it. What I have found with my customers, is lack of education that these products are out there. I have found that the customers, once I get them to think of it as part of their maintenance schedule, get it done every year and dont mind spending the $225 that it costs at my shop. I think it comes down to trying to educate people on the products as well as not making them feel like your trying to take advantage of them.
225 wow I paid 169 f150
With all the negative hype on rust proof undercoating that people hear able from dealers, it will be a challenge to have them see that what you do is different than someone spraying rhino liner on the underside of their car
@@insideoutsideupsidedown2218 - That is so true new car dealers really hurt the reputation of undercoating.
@@Rob-rl2sx maybe you got half a job!
@@Rob-rl2sx its 425 if they remove all plastic panels, including fender wells, uner hood...
Here in the PRVT, I think people feel that protecting against rust is a lost cause - nothing will stop the rot. Then there are the older rustproofing products that actually made the problem worse- there was one that formed sort of a plastic barrier that cracked and trapped the salt up against the frame, guaranteeing terrific rust problems. I used to use gear oil, but have switched to Fluid Film cuz my local guy recommended it. It works.
Some say bar and chain oil alone or mixed with diesel is their go-to. You think the fluid film is best?
@@barrys_shop I've watched a ton of South Main Auto videos, and Mr. O talks quite extensively about Fluid Film. He even has a dedicated playlist for Fluid Film. One major advantage it has over oil and/or diesel is that it is safe on all the rubber under your car, whether it's rubber bushings or hoses, Fluid Film won't degrade them like petroleum based products will.
I'm a mechanic in the PRVT as well. What do you think of the S.5 carbon tax?
I'm finding myself watching your videos like TV episodes and enjoying them MUCH MORE than anything I can find there. Thanks for this...
I'm in Ireland where we get plenty salt on the roads to rust out our chariots. Best cure I can give you is when you service your car you use your old engine oil. Pour it through a paint filter and mix t with white vinegar. Then spray the underside of the car with a simple window cleaner pray bottle. Love your videos
Until I saw your video about Krown a few years ago, I had never heard of it before here in MI, even being a "car guy". Ziebart was always the thing I heard about, but since your video, I had 5 or 6 friends and family Krown their cars. This is the second year, and talking to the guy there he says he cannot believe the growth rate of the business over the past year so the word is getting out. Thank you Eric O.
The business growth is likely proportional to inflation, and the crazy market. The average used car payment is reaching $950 to $1000 a month. Most households can't afford this, so making thier car last suddenly has become a priority.
I'm located in Canada and all my cars are sprayed yearly. To me, it's like changing to winter tires... However, you and Mrs. O both make compelling arguments as to why many don't do it. Historically, many companies used the "crappy stuff" and gave the practice a bad rap.
I’m Canadian too eh and I’m religious about oil spraying all the cars I have owned since they were new. Maybe there’s some truth to Mr “0”’s comment on Canadians.
Oil spraying and saying sorry all the time is part of being from the great white north...
What part of Canada are you from here I have never done it mainly because of cost and no evidence of it working
I’m in South Western southern Ontario. I’ve been oil spraying everything I drive since the mid 1970’s. For the last 20 years my mechanic was doing my spraying but unfortunately he retired last year. I found another place that seems to be pretty good. Cost is currently about $90 per vehicle. Since I tend to keep vehicles for 20 years it makes sense. If you trade your car every 5 to 7 years it likely doesn’t make too much sense.
@@Ghostinthedark100
"No evidence"?!?!
Google "Canadian armed forces corrosion control research". Not only they found it EXTREMELY effective, but they also tested which one is the best.
Bottom line: "Corrosion free formula 3000" is in the first place, Krown in a close 2nd.
Northern Vermont here , and definitely my area is in the rust belt! I absolutely spray the under side and interior body panels for rust prevention. In 12 years mine are still really good for having zero to very little rust. Mine are not going to the junk yard and mine are still worth many thousands of dollars. I spray my vehicles myself , but even if I had to pay out a couple of thousand dollars over the life of the vehicle it is a real good investment!
Thank you Eric for talking about the lies. Our children our now taught to lie and seem to have picked up the habit of doing that automatically. Lies are all over the news. Lies are told by most politicians. It has become normal in our country and society for people to completely ignore honesty and lie without any thought whatsoever. l have a great deal of respect for you, the way you run your family and business with honesty.
In Trump's Amerika lies will be truth.
Mrs O makes everyday a beautiful day!
Hello Eric, I am from the baby boomer generation and yes I live in NYS. I had owned various trucks in the past. All had over 2 hundred thousand miles on them. I took all on the beach and surf casted. Washed the under bellies when I got home. Prior to winter , i treated them with oil. None had rust. I think generally people just don't know had to care for their vehicles or are afraid to do so. My generation got a car and opened the hood to see how things worked. I think those days are gone. Thats why we have more waste then ever. Just ask people, how many cell phones, computers etc have they owned in the last 10 years. Sorry for going on so long. Eric you do a great job, never change. Thank you!!.
I live about an hour north of Eric here in NY, rust and rot is absolutely terrible around here. I've had my truck sprayed by Krown every year since it was brand new, never saw salt before being oil sprayed. I was skeptical too, but now at the six year mark I really notice what a good job the Krown has done at fending off the crusties. No frame rust, no body rust. It's remarkable when comparing my truck to others of similar age that haven't been sprayed. I plan on driving this truck for at least ten years, and I know that it'll certainly make it that long, and still look pretty good too thanks to the oil spray.
It's easier to sell a non-rusty 10 year old vehicle than one that's rusted away.
I'm in Middlesex. You must be close by?
I drive on the beach every weekend. I live in the rustbelt. I have my truck steam cleaned and fluid filmed every year. Worth the investment..5 years old not a spot of rust or corrosion. Learned about this while watching your videos. Thanx a ton from PA.
This channel is not only informative to fix our own cars, but is so special because it is a family business and to see him working in cars and including his wife and family makes the more special. Thank you for all what you teach us have learned so much from you.
Woolwax and Fluid Film fan here 12+ years (FJ and 4R) If you can do it from the beginning, do it - if you can do it yourself, do it - crawl under there and get to know your vehicles underside intimately. If not have it done. Lanolin products are amazing at fighting rust, I use it on wheels also during the winter also, looks a bit messy but cleans up like new in the spring and most importantly has been protected.
50 years ago when I lived in Maine, undercoating was a newish thing and was expensive and largely ineffective. If I still lived in the rust belt, I'd spend $200 a year to have my vehicle treated... That's a fraction of the cost of insurance! Good topic!
I never had heard of oil spraying a car until I began watching your channel. To answer your question, I think both and you the lovely Mrs. O are absolutely correct in the reason why people do not oil spray their car. Thank you for another awesome and educational video. Much love n prayers from upstate PRNY.🙏💜
Honestly the hard part about rust preventative is finding someone competent who is willing to do it. I've tried twice the past two years and both times I got the "Craigslist rebuild" level of application, just tssst tssst tssssssst on the exposed surfaces, nothing inside the frame rails or in any of the hard to reach but quick to rust areas.
A lot of good points on reasons why oil undercoating isn't done....and I'll add another one...divorce. It's a truly disgusting job if you do it properly plus it makes maintenance horrible afterwards....everything in the garage gets slimy and grimy...tools, people. Then it spreads..., the house carpet, the cat, the paint round the wall switches...even the bedsheets (after all, the stuff is designed not to wash off). So while it certainly stops the rust...I drive an '88 Grand Marquis and a '98 Exploder in the rust belt and the frames and bodywork are fine....but it ruins everything else....drive, house furnishings....and eventually ones marriage. 😢
you could open your own chain of businesses
Some great answers to rust proofing by you and Mrs O
There could be a weekly
segment called.
"Lets ask mrs O"
Your welcome for the great idea take it run with it
Rust proof my truck every year. So far so good.👍🇨🇦
A Canadian here from Ontario. I Krown all my vehicles. My vehicles last way longer and I spend less on things like brake lines, rusty sensors etc. However, when you buy a new car from a new car dealership and tell them you're going to oil it they make it sound like that's the worst thing you can do because they have their own agenda. That may be why some people don't do it. A car may not be an investment but letting something you spend 30K+ on rot out in less than 10 years doesn't make sense.
Exactly!
The dealers around here (London ON) sell oil undercoating at a 200% markup :)
Also, manufacturers with rust warranty (VW/Audi) will not warranty rust if the undercoaters drill access holes in the door sills.
You sir are proof why I started doing every car I own. Fluid film for the win !!!!
Love your professional humor :D respect from Poland
By the way i am gonna spray my car with lanolin for rust protection. I also thought about acid-free petroleum jelly(great rust protection) but i decided to use lanolin as i see that lanolin based products are best rust protection for the car like Fluid Film or Lanotec. Mrs.O is such a smart lady :)
Im also use Fluid Film on my cars. I have a Volvo from 2007, its rust free. Greetings from Norway
You are my favorite technician on TH-cam! 😊
I think Mrs. O is 100% correct. It's easy for guys like you and I to take for granted that it's natural for us to try and figure out how to prevent it in the first place. But I know most people's thought is 'When are they going to make cars that don't rot out?'.
When it gets to Caption Kirk time.
my question is why do vw beetles last 50 years plus answer is because they have been dipped in a tank where the solution goes everywhere
Part of it is that the exterior body on so many vehicles hold up very well. What they don’t see doesn’t bother them. I have seen many vehicles go to scrap because of rusted frames and underbody, with the exterior looking perfect. Some people don’t like a product like Krown because it is so messy. Some kind of rustproofing is definitely needed in the rustbelt.
Daughter had a 2005 Subaru Forester that looked great on the outside, but had rotted out subframe in the front. She lives in the PRNY and luckily her mechanic at the time located a used subframe from a non rust belt state and replaced it at half the cost of new Subby parts. A few months ago one of the lower control arms broke due to rust so she junked the car. Didn’t want to spend more money on an old car that had limited life left.
Hi everybody. I really like watching your videos. I'm 82 and live in Mesa, Arizona, and have never taken a car to the garage. However the era of bailing wire fixes is gone. So with my scanner and a little knowledge, and people like you, I have been able to keep our five vehicles going. Please all of you in the NE, rust proof your cars. They make it down here and we have to contend with the rust. Thank you so much for your excellent videos. God bless you. Ed Say hi to your wife.
Yep after 47 years on this earth I finally went stupid and bought brand new dream truck this year, and first thing I did was protect with NH OIL mineral oil base. Being from Minnesota i actually didn't know this was a thing til I been watching Eric. Thank you
As a person who comes from and lives in the vehicle disintegration zone of northwestern Ontario I have plenty of experience in this area…I believe you are correct in saying so many people have been lied to about so many of these gimmicks that they simply don’t buy into the rust protection. Sadly there are effective methods out there if they are applied correctly! It’s all fine and well to find KROWN or kroil and have it applied but also you must find a place that will apply it properly and correctly and where you need it not just where you see it. I’ve had people that have had ‘rust protection’ applied poorly and will never return as it was splashed all over and did nothing to stop critical rust. You must find a reputable place that really knows the industry and not ‘joe’s mechanical, lawn care and carpet installation’. And for gosh sakes do it ‘from new’!! If a vehicles spends even a year or two in the ‘acid zone’ before its first application, unfortunately they have already started rusting from within. This leads me to another common belief that vehicle companies are using poorer and poorer metals and alloys when building these vehicles so people have the ‘what’s the point? attitude unfortunately.
So as you can see it’s not just a simple subject overall. Personally I would protect mine with the ‘oil application’ and regularly and I would encourage others to do the same..it helps in vehicle longevity and helps maintain resale value when there is still metal there to buy. Wow, this is almost as long as some videos. 😮 j/k lol 😆
Keep makin these awesome videos and we’ll keep watching them…they’re great!!
I used Fluid Film and then Wool Wax to keep my Jeep XJ on the road as a 80 mile/day daily driver in Central New York. Successfully. I tried to educated all of my friends on how important it was up here. I even offered to help them do it. Of all my friends, only one headed the advice and got their car treated. The rest were very cynical. Not lazy, or a money issue, but thought it was snake oil. I tried.
Yup. When I first moved to CNY I asked a UPS driver how they keep thier trucks from rusting out so I could use it on my 1968 Ford F100. They said is was mainly an oil spray, and then certain areas they use a wax type spray. The wax is sprayed on areas that are not exposed to pebble & rock strikes. Like the cowl, tops of the strut towers etc. The wax can last 3 to 5 years. So it makes sense to use it those areas. The oil sprays are self healing. Making them better for areas exposed to rock strikes. The only downside is the need to apply it every fall.
@@jamesl9686 I have had horrible luck with WD40. It dries very quickly, and washes away with road spray. The thick oils like Flid Film, Crown, New Hampshire Oil, etc are sticky & don't wash away as easily. So they last about 1 to 1 & half years.
@@jamesl9686 WD40 isn't a solvent in the respect that most understand it. It is a very thin oil with additives to help improve it's ability to drive out water. Yes WD40 "breaks down" other petroleum products, but all petroleum based products do this. It's the equivalent to calling water a solvent because it breaks down & thins other water based solutions. SAE 30 or 40 will only marginally increase it's viscosity. Both still wash off from road spray far easier then the purpose formulated rust proofing oils. Plus SAE 30 & 40 do not self heal like the purpose formulated rust proofing oils do.
In the end you end up spending less money applying the purpose formulated rust proofing oils & waxes. The increased maintenance of a custom WD40 mix eliminates the precieved costs savings. Both in the increased quantity of product needed, and time taken to inspect & reapply as needed. Add to this that an increasing number of municipalities & states banning the application of motor oils to frames & chassis for environmental reasons. New Hampshire Oil is food grade compliant, none toxic product. Plus it doesn't stink. I 'm not sure about the lanolin based oils, like Fluid Film, but I wouldn't be surprised that it would epa compliant.
It's one of things ware the homemade version provides a false sense economy. New Hampshire Oil does sell a nice application spray gun. Which helps keep you from having to pay for someone to apply it for you. The product pricing is very reasonable when you take into account the savings over the use of a homemade version. I am all for self sufficientency, and making things vs store bought. But there are times when the purchased product is so much more superior to the homemade version. That it makes little sense to not go with the purchased purpose built products. The only exception is if the purpose formulated product is unavailable & on back order.
@@KLondike5 yes, but the question is, which is better to use. A thin oil that suffers from washout, and is incapable of self healing. Which in turn ends up requiring multiple reapplications, smells, and is often banned for use in this manner by municipalities, and State governments due to negative environmental impact. OR.... One that is specifically formulated for this use, is food grade compliant making it 100% environmentally safe, doesn't stink, is self healing from rock strikes and such, is thick enough to not suffer from washouts, etc. All of which makes it far cheaper not only for that season, but for the whole year?
There is a time & place for home spun solutions. Due to the fact that the purposely formulated ones are readily available, this isn't one of those times.
Don't get me wrong. I'm a cheap penny pincher. But there comes a point when cheaping out up front ends up costing you 3 to 5 times more then if you just bit the bullet & dealt with the upfront cost in the first place. 😂
Had problems with the rubber undercoating also. Even using rustoleum does not hold up. Surface was scuffed up and cleaned.
Was disappointing. Even seen Por15 fail. They used to sell this thing that worked off the battery. Electrical way of changing the molecules or ions. Even a few dealers recommended them. Think a few got rich off it. Did not help.
People very skeptical now. Wasted money on it before.
Seen a few videos on fluid film.
Thinking of trying it. Hate to do it again every year.
You still think fluid film it is effective?
Best chance of slowing it down.
Thank You.
There are studies that show that people are inherently terrible at thinking about the future. It's the same reason people don't exercise or eat healthy, etc. - they don't fully comprehend future problems. I'd imagine that is at play here as well. Price, lack of knowledge about the process, lack of surety of future problems. As a Canadian, undercoating was kind of "passed down knowledge", at least in my household - it's just maintenance that you do on your vehicle. Videos like yours help - education is key!
I have been a mechanic for 42 years and have to say I have learned somethings watching your channel. My shop is in Mass and we have the same rust issues as Avoca which is a Village I spent a lot of time in as a kid as my grandparents lived there, lived on South Main street, and my father grew up there. Keep the good videos, advice and tips coming
We use LPS 3 on aircraft as a rust inhibitor. it comes in drums and aerosol cans. It worked well on my vehicles. Stays on good for a few seasons. It’s a wax based product that cures onto the surface and doesn’t wash off easy.
very heavy on the doesn't wash off easily! 500MPH+
Right on.
Our vehicles drive our families here and there.
Don't neglect your family vehicle.
Always nice to see Mrs. O. When there's a chance to see Mrs. O, your videos are never pointless. 😉
We use fluid film , warm it up and spray it on . Used it in Midwest forever. Also having a lift makes it easier.
yep all my cars get fluid film it stops rust right now...having a lift make my job easy...an in ohio where i am they love salt... i dont lol
You taught me about fluid film!! I agree with Mrs. O, in that not too many people know about it. It’s not a service in the MidWest. But watching you diagnose and fixing cars lends to your character, that I trust what you say. You are an outstanding mechanic, so why wouldn’t take your advice?! Thanks for how you do your job!
We moved to northern Minnesota (also road salted, but not in summer) and immediately noticed the rusty cars. I immediately followed your advice had our new car done. They use a product around here, called "Waxoyl" with a 3M product inside the doors, rocker panels and other boxed-in errors. I'm REALLY glad to have seen your videos on the subject. You've saved me thousands of dollars.
That's body rust proofing. Oil rust proofing sprays the undercarriage metal with oil
@@bigdaddymak1439 I use wayoxl on the underbody, suspension, pipes..everything. Its more resistant to weather than oil.
Rust prevention aside... Mrs. O is adorable!
I’ve used kroil for fourty years! Expensive but worth every penny!
ABSOLUTELY RIGHT 😊
That's a lie , people don't live that long , 🤣
That induction heater was a thing of beauty!
Great video, I started spraying fluid film on my car and my wife’s car every time I’m under them, it was one of your videos a few years ago that got me on board, my dad is a body guy and he would always use a mix of bar and chain oil and something else to undercoat cars when I was younger.
Toilet bowl wax ring is really popular to mix with bar and chain oil
I just bought a 2020 Chevy Silverado with 18000 miles the first thing i did is had it fluid filmed. I live in northern Ohio west of Cleveland. in our area they use a lot of brine or beet juice and salt. In my opinion that stuff sticks to everything and eats the under side of a vehicle out in a few years. I believe in hot oiling and or fluid film. i just sold my 2006 GMC Canyon it had no rust because I had it hot oiled almost every year.
Denny D.
In the UK we also have salt problems because of snow and ice on our roads, So we underseal our cars from new. One popular system is the Waxoyl one. It self-heals stone strikes and also creeps inside chassis sections etc. Unprotected cars soon rust out. And forgive me but your wife is not only a real beauty but pretty smart and well spoke too. I'll get my hat and coat shall I? Love your videos and the explanations that go with thjem, very professional.
Thanks for Posting ! Lived in the salt belt many years ago in New England and every car I owned, none of them new all had rust issues. Inspections were every six months and almost every shop had a license to inspect them. Seemed as long as a bunch of money was spent to patch em up they would put stickers on em for ya. Some cars just couldn’t pass and off they went to be crushed and turned into scrap. Was very costly to own in the area. There should be a better way to make the roads safer without trashing millions of cars doing it. My 2 cents.
That Kroil is the best I have seen ! Amazing how good it works
Great content Eric. YOU sold me on Fluid Film. I now preach about it folks I know. I grew up in southeast, WI. Land of winter white roads... Not from snow, but from SALT !!! These days they drizzle a ultra Corrosive chemical in attempt to prevent ice buildup & to aid in the melting of snow, ice & your undercarriages. Historically, all of my vehicles lasted a couple hundred Thousand miles because I maintained them but no matter the method, they ultimately fell to rust. Dealers were ripping folks off with Ziebart, etc. All of the do it yourself black rubbery tar-like rustproofing products just held moisture in place to exacerbate the corrosion within. Now I live in New Mexico and a rusty vehicle is never to be seen here. Incredible. I STILL use Fluid-Film on my aluminum bodied F150 but primarily for the frame & all steel based components. (Amazing how much plastic there is on vehicles now too!!) My 2018 truck has 109k miles on it and I intend to keep for a Long Long time given the ridiculous prices of new trucks now. Replacing many of the horribly corroded parts on my wife's 2010 Jeep now too. Everything new gets Fluid-Film. Be well Sir.
WD 40 is not a penetrating oil although so many people used it as such that the manufacturer added that word to the label. Many years ago I acquired a list of the many things WD40 could be used for and penetrating oil was not one of them. Who knew? Great video, as usual. Thanks.
WD40 makes a plethora of different products under the "WD40" moniker ...
I use CRC and other spray silicone oil under my truck to coat everything. Also use the spray car wax under the truck as coating. Also if there is rust spots I paint them with silver or aluminum, or black spray paint as needed. The spray oil does for the most part protect the metal parts, electrical, rubber etc. Been doing spray oil for years and it has been working for me. Note: it takes 6, 8, or 10 cans of spray oil to do the job and about 10 cans of silicone spray oil costs me about $50.00. Peace.
My Chevy Tahoe is rust free at 20 years old. Still in mint like condition. It was the best investment I ever made into a vehicle. I couldn't even imagine the financial hardship of replacing a vehicle every 7 to 12 years due to rust.
I love Mrs. O's "I got so many better things to do" look! 2 years ago, I bought my mom a loaded CRV for 36k. I cannot believe the price increases.
Do our vehicles every year cost $135 ea with Oil Guard my veh just this am had a winter service-oil change and checkover! Mechanic told me that my 2012 Journey was excellent and that I keep my vehicle in top shape-cost $200 for service ! Here in Kingsville,Ontario with salt it is a must.
Glad to see that you have now started using induction heating. I have been using it for the last 8vyears. My unit is not as fancy, but works just as well. As an ASE Master Tech with L1 and 57 years of experience I would love to see more people using these units.
I think there's another factor to consider here - so many people have been burned by the dealers with their "rustproofing and scotch guarding" that they are resistant to listening about other products now. Kind of like the "lifetime protective paint finish" of several years ago - yeah, it was a good product for a few years, then you were no better off. We don't have the rust issues that the PNY has, but I used some Fluid Film on my snow wheels last year and discovered that the difference was beyond amazing when it came time to go back to the summer rims, so I have used it now in a few of more rust/corrosion prevalent areas on my rigs. As you said, Eric - there's so much media hype sometimes, who do you believe or trust?
Yeah this is similar to Eric’s point about “everyone’s lying” but I think you specifically address the problem. In my own mind (here in a southern state where it’s less important), when I hear the words “rust proofing” my subconscious mind automatically says “scam”. Today I understand it’s more nuanced than that, but I completely agree with you that the term has been ‘spoiled’ to a degree for many people.
50 years ago or so, when I started driving, in NE Wisconsin. Our biggest problem with the salt and snow, was the exhaust system. It rusted out pretty fast, seemed like every few years or so, you replaced the muffler and pipes. Course, we never had new cars, they were all used vehicles, until I went and joined the Navy. I was no longer eating my folks out of house and home, lol. Good info Eric and Mrs. O. , thanks.
So Eric after watching your past videos on installing crown rustproofing I have done my pick up truck. The cost was $150. The problem was the nearest dealership for crown was two hours away. I love coding my truck with that preserve it and I actually didn’t know that stuff Existed until I watched your video
I’ve been in aviation my whole life. I own a Cessna 150 that was built in 1972 to a completely different design philosophy, that being - it cannot fail. All metal structures are made from “Alclad” - 2024 aluminum with pure AL coated to each side. The permanent oxide coating protects it from further degradation. All attached components (engines, accessories, avionics, wheels/brakes etc) are easily replaceable, rebuildable, and incredibly durable. Cars by contrast are consumable products subject to taste and the manufacturers desire to sell 12 million units per year - you can’t do that if you build them like airplanes. I drive a 1996 Tercel coupe with “the big 1-5” and a 4 speed manual - oil sprayed every year. It’s not allowed to die.
I live in WV and we don't have a much snow so of course we don't have as much salt or rust as you, but it still a HUGE problem. I learned about Krown on your channel years ago, so we drive 2 vehicles to PA to get ours sprayed with Krown every year. (about 8 hour round trip. closest place to us)
I have learned a TON from your channel. Thank you so much Eric.
Montani Semper Liberi
Eric, I lived in the Rochester, NY area for 31 plus years and I did oil my cars my self. Used motor old oil, it did a super job. Applied it with the undercoating tool from Harbor Fright. My Ford trucks and cars held up better than most. You are correct, most people feel it's a waste of $$$$$.
When I was doing oil spraying I always reminded people that it doesn’t really stop rust but greatly slows it down. I was partial to no drip because it was less messy. I also give my thoughts on no drip and runny oil, both great products but both have a purpose while giving the same benefits . Good for Mrs O brining up about people liking entertainment more then the car. When business was good in late 80’s early 90’s I branched out into car sales with a lot of “ lease to own” people. It was apparent new stereo , mag wheels with new tires was more beneficial then making a car payment. Repossessed a lot of these vehicles.
I know here in the UK in the 80's and 90's there was a big push to sell undercoating that turned out to be worse than not doing it at all, being latex or bitumen based. So I think many people remember this or are warned by older relatives and don't get it done. It does seem that in the UK the manufacturers do a better job of it than in the PRNY but perhaps that is because they do the same over the whole country and for much of the US it would be a waste of time - rusting of cars was a big, big issue in the motor press in the 70s and 80s and rustproofing is still seen as a selling point in the UK.
I always bought second hand cars, so I had to work with whatever I got, but I found that a treatment with Finnigans Waxoyl every 3-4 years would make the chassis and most of the panels last until something critical in the engine or drive train gave up. They salt the roads here quite aggressively so if you're hoping to run an older car you really need to do something.
I live in Webster, Texas. A couple of years ago, someone opened up a zeibart shop in a great location on a busy road. It has closed since then. Every time I'm underneath my truck, 95, I'm amazed by its lack of rust. I'm from Ohio, and anyone who can afford them drives beaters in the winter. Thanks Eric!
Thanks for the Sage advice Mrs O... When I lived in PRNY I found a protective spray product and used it on my New car. By golly it worked, Now this was 40 yrs ago. The only shop that would do corrosive protection undercoated, which used tar or some such. The stuff cracked and held salt to the metal. Good trick. Pop used to have the cars undercoated, And he replaced the rocker panels every 3 years. This was in the 50's. I think the oldest car he had was maybe 6 years old. Then he discovered buy a new car every 2 years. No more rust, well no more rusted out frames anyway. Finally he discovered the ultimate rust protection.... Florida!!! Me I left the PRNY, and Now live in The Free state of Alabama... No rust here either.
Eric: Everybody lies to everybody.
Vanessa: Are you lying right now?
That struck me as funny. 🤣
I understand where you are coming from after hours of watching your channel. I had a two bay shop in Calgary Alberta over a period of 4 years. I had many return customers. I had the entire or most of the employees coming to me from the downtown office building of 1600 Shell employees. I did exactly what you are doing, processing the eliminate possible causes.Keeping them all happy at a savings large.
Thanks to one’s of your videos I fixed my car , One more time thank you!
Ny'er here. I bought a 5-gallon bucket of fluid film and cheap sprayer for 4 years ago now($210). About $30/year per vehicle to fluid film. My tractor/trailers/lawn mower all get a thin coat before winterizing. Very happy with the results.
The jokes and the humor is the best. I used to get mad and throw stuff when I was younger. Eric you have taught me to mellow out. Thanks.
In the UK, ACF50 is quite popular amongst motorcyclists for corrosion protection, particularly those that ride all year round. It does work quite well, but one does still need to keep on top of the chain and the brakes. The idea is come the warmer months, you wash it off and then reapply again before the next round of road salting com winter again happens.
I've seen you go the whole hog on fluid film coating the underneath and inside the doors and inner fenders etc, but I think in the UK, we would struggle to find someone to do it that we could trust to be as thorough as you are. In the UK they don't use liquid salt to de-ice the roads, we use granulated rock salt, so our cars do not rot out as badly as the PRNY.
Good to see Mrs O, and thanks for your brilliant vids Eric. I wish more TH-camrs had your easy going and light hearted charm when presenting.
Hey Eric, great video man, love your commentary as you are working. Canadian fella here, bought an 09 Hondo Ridgeline that had been oil sprayed every year since new. It’s in amazing shape for it’s age and so much easier to work on. 👍
I am squinting my eyes, seeing you take down that evap - so much rust and dirt falling. lol. Keep doing the good work, I always enjoy watching your videos, learned so much.
Mrs. O is spot on. People dont spend money where they should. They spend on flashy lights, audio systems.. So true.
Hi Eric, I think all the reasons you and Mrs. O gave are all valid. Another reason I think that people do not rust proof their vehicles is because they only see the painted body surfaces and with little rust on these surfaces they think the underside is also rust free. They have no clue what lurks below! These are obviously the people who never get underneath their vehicle.
It’s all marketing like everything else. And rarely is there an honest guy like you that tells folks what they really need or should really do. I use a combo of fluid film, PB Surface Shield and CRC Corrosion Inhibitor. Touch up once or twice a year. I can’t afford a new truck. Prices are ridiculous. Good vid. Thank you. And the Mrs. is correct.
Petroleum oil type spray is a superior product for undercoating vehicles because it "seeps" into cracks and crevices to prevent rust. I owned a 2000 Malibu for 18 years and used to have it RustChecked on a regular basis ( not yearly but based on inspection annually as to need for re-spraying. GM in '89, I think, used to coat their 1/2 ton frames with a heavy wax coating about a 1/4 inch thick. Many cars and trucks that have no protection and that are exposed to even a month of road salt are scrap in a few short years due to rust. You are doing EVERYONE a huge favor by promoting the use of rust proofing to double or triple the useful life of their vehicles. ( Despite complaints from some mechanics about this stuff
dripping on them or covering everything under a vehicle!) 👍👍👍👍👍👍🔧🔧🔧🔧🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇
I'm more in favor of the wax coating, if done right. Always thought going from a C channel frame to a box frame with a bunch of holes in it was a dumb idea. Salt water goes in and stays there, called designed obsolescence - guaranteed to fail.
Iowan here. I wasn't aware of fluid film until i started watching your videos. Started spraying my 11 Subaru last year. Might have gotten it in time. My 08 Ford is probably a lost cause, but I'll spray it anyway in the hopes I can get a few more years out of it.
I know I'm supposed to complain about what you're doing wrong here in the comments, but instead I'll thank you for doing what you do. I've learned about some techniques and tools that i probably wouldn't have otherwise. You made life easier keeping my old cars on the road and safe, and it's much appreciated.
I live in Florida now! Lived in Ct for 25 years and know exactly what you're talking about. Now I find here unless I park next to the ocean or submerge on the boat ramp, rust is not a problem here anymore. The salt air will wreak havoc though on your paint if you don't keep it clean and waxed!