If they are copper gaskets, they can be re-used. Just areal them to cherry red and let cool. They will work fine.. Best to de-rust the bores, A pain, but worth it in the long-run. You will find out if there are any issues lurking in the rest of the engine. I believe that type of governor was vacuum driven
Bores like that.. Fill the cylinders with a ATF and Acetone mix and let it sit for a bit. Vacuum out the mix, squirt some engine oil in them and turn it over.
You've come this far - take the heads off and clean up the rust with a hone - don't have to take the pistons out. Take this opportunity to change the head gasket. Enjoyed the video.
I like the valve job, well done. The bores are a bit of a moot point now since you've been cranking it over already. The is a good chance at least the top rings are broken now. Everyone is always in too much of a hurry to turn these old things over without thought for the consequences. Old petrol engines especially vulnerable since by their nature oily deposits get washed off the bores. Personally at this point I'd strip it fully and assess if it's viable or a boat anchor? It doesn't need to be rebuilt to as new specs. A full clean and inspection, polish the journals and glaze bust the rust off the bores. New compression rings and maybe shells may give it a new life. Running it now could trash a usable crank and score the bores putting it beyond saving.........
Thanks for tuning in and commenting 👍. The motor had been ‘turned over regularly’ before I bought it and was not seized, so I was hoping I wasn’t doing any damage by spinning on the starter… but we’ll see! I feel I may be taking a few more steps back before I go forward…
Thanks Chris, for another great vid. Since you asked, I would say that unless you intend taking the pistons out to inspect the rings, there is only a marginal gain to taking the heads off. Mist all the bores with light oil and let the existing rings do the scraping. Cheers
Agree with plan b,been down that rabbit hole of buying numerous parts,oil the bores up ,soften any rust and scale,soften carbon around stuck rings,any pits in the bores will fill with any crud that gets scraped off as long as you get enough compression to get to fire,as a last resort 24v gets em really spinning over,I’d be inclined to make some sort of exhaust system otherwise if it has got various unpleasant noise’s your not going to hear em till maybe to late,loved the over engineered water pump,let it rip pal,a full rebuild will be serious money,12 cyls to rebore,12 oversize pistons n rings,possible crank regrind, new shells,etc,I can feel ya financial pain just writing this,lol,
Great content Chris as always. I would add some “magic mix” to the bores to hopefully clean the rust or at least soften it. Molasses springs to mind! Remember what I said about future Chris last week. Good luck it’s a fantastic project 👍🏻
Than you for sharing a great video...That pump knew what was coming if it didn't get out of the way...Great price for a new valve...At least there were no mice nests in there...-John
Congratulations on figuring out the valve! I know I’m still in the minority, but I don’t think I wouldn’t overthink it.. messing with old farm equipment for better than 25 years. I’m amazed what will run on these old low compression American engines.. again, even if you lose 25% of your horsepower through old age.. that thing is going to have so much torque in a car chassis I don’t think you’ll notice.. I think you’re right about doing the rebuild when you know everything is solid.. good luck, I’m loving this build…
The Devil on one shoulder, an Angel on the other. "Let it go, start it ASAP. It will bring instant gratification" says the Devil. "If you must" says the Angel, "at least soak the bores with some magic elixir before the big event." Great job on the valve mod.
@@thebracketfactory Angel dice: pon algo de ATF en los cilindros, hazlo girar con el starter sin bujias y dale el deseo al diablo🤞Gran trabajo con la valvula
I’d pull the main heads and clean the bores up. It would make me cringe hitting that starter button, but you have already turned it over. Damage might be done already.
Spinning on the starter is only about 30 to 60 rpm, so *hoping* I've not done too much harm... but 1500 rpm is a a different kettle of fish! Jury remains out.....!
Anneel the head gaskets, put mystery marvel oil in cylinders, otherwise the plan seems good, if you using an inlet valve for exhaust it wont hold up to the heat?? you cut off the hardened surface for the valve pushrod?? Looking forward to lift off!!
Could be right about the hardened end of the rod... If (I mean 'when'!!) I get the engine running I'll keep an eye in that - quite handy to be able to 'peer in'!!
I thought the carbs looked familiar and this was confirmed when you mentioned that Holdens had them for decades. There was a hot Holden called an X2 which came with two of them and they delivered smooth power considering the small size of the engine. I was thinking the engine would make a great powerplant for land speed racing ..... Vintage flat head class maybe.
Heads off. BDC each piston. Gentle wire wheel brush ( possibly Brass ) on each bore should reveal any pitting / scoring. Clean up piston crowns too. Thoroughly blow out each bore. May be a good idea to add some diesel to each bore & let it seep down to the rings as they are likely gummed up.Lube bores with engine oil & turn several times by hand to check for 'orrible noises and bore residues. Wipe each out at BDC. Relube each and start it. Is the small pipe to the water pump an oil pressure feed for the bearings or maybe a greaser??
Good plan.... Put it all back together and go for a start...(listen to your other "inner voice", I say)...! If it was a high performance race engine, plans might be different... It won't take long for the rings to scrape off the surface rust - just change the oil a few times.😁😁
Being that you found a broken valve and there is some rust, to save the rings and give the old girl a good chance at starting, I would say take the heads off and hone the bores. You can check out the condition of the cylinders and clean the ports out of the soot.
As I'm sure you're well aware, one important part of a project is keeping motivation......never leave at a problem. ...another important part is progress and enjoyment, fire her up ASAP. Cheers & good luck. Reading, Berkshire.
Thanks for the video. I'd just try to get it started at this point, maybe put some oil or secret sauce in the cylinders with the spark plugs out, let it sit, then carefully evacuate that material to clean up the cylinders a bit? I imagine the rabbit hole is a bit deep if you start getting carried away....
I just tried clicking on your merch link and it just takes me a Bigcartel login page. Don't want you to miss out on some sales! :) Really enjoying all the videos.
If you check out Mat Armstrong’s latest video, he used some marvel mystery oil to put into the bores to remove surface rust. Maybe worth a go. Fantastic videos, keep up the good work 👍
That's great progress. Regarding the rust in the bores I think it is whether you intend to rebuild it anyway. I'd soak the bores in diesel for a week and give it a go. There are still a lot of unknowns on the engine and if you take the heads off and clean up the bores you'll start saying, having come this far should I look at the bearings? An engine like this can swallow up money really quickly. I've watched a few old cars in the states being started after lying around for 40+ years. Lots of cranking and smoke but the guy just wants to hear it run before deciding what to do with it. Whatever you decide, it will be right for you. I like the style of your videos. Lots of information but not endless footage spent on cleaning rust.👍
Amazing progress the rings will be brittle with age maybe oil the bores add a little graphite ? and just turn over on the battery first of all in truth this motor will be running in no time at all for you to access its faults or other loved the video thanks.
Good morning , I don't wish to be a hindsight know all but would it have been a good plan to bung almost any thin oil product down the bores before even rolling it over?. Diesal even, I think you have rolled the engine over quite a few times now so that should have revealed the state of the bores pretty much or am I missing something. I am amazed how you intuited that a daf engine would yield the right valve that was pure genius. I saw the saw ! method of getting the broken spark lug out on the shorts you did . I look forward to hearing the stubby / zoomie exhausts flame out oil and sundry particles in the workshop. Yay get the fire extinguisher .. All the best forward and upwards
I say give her a go given it turns over freely and whilst large, would be lowly stressed and you probably need a boost to maintain the enthusiasm. Those Strombergs were fitted to numerous Holdens for decades, some in twin and even triple fittings, so there must be a wealth of knowledge out there.
By the way there's a good reason those manifolds are linked. Carb icing is a real problem without water heated intake manifolds or an exhaust hot spot. Imagine the butterflies stuck fully open sprinting towards a corner on pram wheels and cable brakes🤣🤣🤣
You also need manifold heat so the farthest cylinders get a good atomized mix rather than have a lot of it condense in a cold runner at lower speeds and temperatures.
I love plasticine, my favourite thing when I was a kid. I went on the shop to look at the hoodies, but it just took me straight to a site with all sorts of clothing on, like H&M sort of thing. I was expecting a list of your merch.
Thanks to our mate Bryan for turning me on to yet another genius with a knack for giving old engines the love they need - but this time on a gigantic scale.Chris -- I hope you find the chassis as I can't wait to hear this beast running and driving. Perhaps Bryan may know somebody who's got one stashed away somewhere!
Without any hesitation I would strongly advise you to clean the bores up before you attempt to run it or even turn it over further if you don't you seriously risk broken rings which are probably already stuck anyway but broken rings stuck in their grooves will likely cause more damage to the bores. I noticed that the valve seats appeared to cut quite easily with your seat cutter this means that the heads are made from a fine grain cast iron which is an unsuitable material for use with unleaded fuel so if you rebuild that engine I would advise the fitting of hardened valve seats, Other grades of cast iron will work harden and don't suffer this problem.
I would expect those copper gaskets are meant to be reused. Back in the day you were probably expected to pull those covers and clean and inspect as part of the service schedule.
Good progress so far, I would have the heads off. A bit odd the carbs being mounted that way round, look out for running weak on fast right hand bends with the floats on one side like that. Turning them so the floats are at the front would prevent that and might make the linkcage easier too sort out.
good job with the valve.. re 'the bores' just through plenty of lube down there and turn it over for a bit...you're only wanting to see if it runs. Leave the bores until the rebuild, IF thats whats going to happen
I agree with a lot of others give a hone. After all it’s zero cost just a bit of time. Which could save money in long run. I am sure after first run it will be stripped down and built fully.
Probably better to hone the cylinder bores before attempting a start, I'm sure you don't need all that rust floating around the rings. Although on second thoughts you have already rotated the engine on the starter. I don't understand why the rings haven't already wiped it away?
All good points Chris - spinning on the starter is pretty slow so and I've not done it all that much, but running at 1000 rpm for 1 min would be a different kettle of fish..... Jury is still 'out' for now!
You might have an easier time to keep upthe steam (motivation) if you don't know the state of the engine at the moment, when you think about how early you are in the project. I'm looking forward to the next episode 🙂
Hi Johnny, I am thinking of a day trip to Brooklands to get a new head of steam... the big V12 can sit and 'stew' for a day or two before the Jury returns a verdict!
@@thebracketfactory "Stew" a day or two sounds like an excellent plan, hope you have a good experience at Brookland, which doesn't get to many crazy plans put into action in your busy head ;-)
Morning, lots of progress. There must be a product you could pour/ spray into the bores to remove the surface rust. Rather than strip the engine. Good luck
Add a water-based chelation product down the rusty bores, pump out the solution and dry it all out. After this there may also be some merit in putting an atf and acetone mix to help free any stuck piston rings. In Australia, I use KBS Rust Blast as the chelating product - I highly recommend it.
I like plan B .if it was my motor I’d just start it with bare minimum work and money. If it runs and you’re happy with it you can go ahead with your plan for building a car . you can take it apart give it the full rebuild in the future. Thanks
Take it apart Free up the rings and quick cylinder hone Clean and inspect everything Don’t do more damage ! Head to block gasket would possibly be an issue
Well if it runs and you are going to strip will you rebore it! If so then fill bores with diesel and turn engine over for a few minutes which will release piston rings and ease bores. Plugs out of course! Then go through start up procedure to see if runs. I would fill with water as with a block that long there must be a chance of heat variation through the block and it will start soaking the spaces between the cylinders. If there is a bad crack some where it will probably self declare. Not overly scientific but you are passing over that format for basic pragmatic check and this saves you the cost of head gaskets and any other funnies that this design may have. As you said is it running or is it furniture!
Thanks for comments Glyn. Really want to avoid rebore and new pistons/rings. Don’t think they are even available! Still tip toeing through the minefield!!
@ As for parts be unconventional. You know that at need repair was going to have double six cylinder expense. You have flat head pistons so don’t forget to look at motor cycle market and industrial static engines. If you find something old a mm big you will have room to turn it down. People make piston rings from cast iron drain pipes machined down and even cast their own pistons. For what you may need to do and the performance you wish to extract you do not need F1 accuracy but that does not mean you can be slap dash.
I’d just run it up. The rust in those bores will be gone in a minute. If you strip it further, then brace yourself for a proper rebuild, because it’s guaranteed that you’ll find something you’re not happy with, and once you start…
Mate your in deep already so remove the pistons clean bores crank, lot of repatriation work but will be better than trying to buy parts that are not available
Wise approach. But at this point I would remove the heads and soak the bores and try a hone before trying to start it
That's what my 'inner voice' is saying (well, one of them!)
I’m in total agreement.
Perhaps use the old trick of Coke a Cola down the bores to do a spring clean.
If they are copper gaskets, they can be re-used. Just areal them to cherry red and let cool. They will work fine.. Best to de-rust the bores, A pain, but worth it in the long-run. You will find out if there are any issues lurking in the rest of the engine. I believe that type of governor was vacuum driven
Cheers Stephen - do you know what the vacuum was driven from? The manifold? All the bits missing from the one...
Bores like that.. Fill the cylinders with a ATF and Acetone mix and let it sit for a bit. Vacuum out the mix, squirt some engine oil in them and turn it over.
Stay tuned for more adventures if 'Chris goes down a rabbit hole'...
You've come this far - take the heads off and clean up the rust with a hone - don't have to take the pistons out. Take this opportunity to change the head gasket. Enjoyed the video.
Thanks Michael, it's very much looking that way now....
I like the valve job, well done. The bores are a bit of a moot point now since you've been cranking it over already. The is a good chance at least the top rings are broken now. Everyone is always in too much of a hurry to turn these old things over without thought for the consequences. Old petrol engines especially vulnerable since by their nature oily deposits get washed off the bores. Personally at this point I'd strip it fully and assess if it's viable or a boat anchor? It doesn't need to be rebuilt to as new specs. A full clean and inspection, polish the journals and glaze bust the rust off the bores. New compression rings and maybe shells may give it a new life. Running it now could trash a usable crank and score the bores putting it beyond saving.........
Thanks for tuning in and commenting 👍. The motor had been ‘turned over regularly’ before I bought it and was not seized, so I was hoping I wasn’t doing any damage by spinning on the starter… but we’ll see! I feel I may be taking a few more steps back before I go forward…
Thanks Chris, for another great vid. Since you asked, I would say that unless you intend taking the pistons out to inspect the rings, there is only a marginal gain to taking the heads off. Mist all the bores with light oil and let the existing rings do the scraping.
Cheers
Cheers John, the Jury is still out for now... more beer to be had 1st!
good progress mate ...wont cost anything but time to run the old hatching tool down those bores....the frog is on simmer bro !
The frog is deffo on simmer!! 😂
Great vid! Yep, heads off and a good clean as first step, that will allow you to see if anything else needs doing. It’s not a race😊
@@boydsargeant7496 ‘not a race’… sage words!!
MAD😱but CLEVER😱🤪👍💪more PATIENCE than most of us🤪can’t wait for the next video👍💪
@@PaulJames-i1q thanks Paul! I might need to work on the patience thing!!
@ get Brian from oak swamp🤪he will sort it😱he can fix anything🤪👍
That thermostat is a little brass work of art!
Awesome isn't it! Needs a little test vid...
Agree with plan b,been down that rabbit hole of buying numerous parts,oil the bores up ,soften any rust and scale,soften carbon around stuck rings,any pits in the bores will fill with any crud that gets scraped off as long as you get enough compression to get to fire,as a last resort 24v gets em really spinning over,I’d be inclined to make some sort of exhaust system otherwise if it has got various unpleasant noise’s your not going to hear em till maybe to late,loved the over engineered water pump,let it rip pal,a full rebuild will be serious money,12 cyls to rebore,12 oversize pistons n rings,possible crank regrind, new shells,etc,I can feel ya financial pain just writing this,lol,
Thanks for feedback Brett. Good point about the exhaust system 👍.
Great content Chris as always. I would add some “magic mix” to the bores to hopefully clean the rust or at least soften it. Molasses springs to mind! Remember what I said about future Chris last week. Good luck it’s a fantastic project 👍🏻
@@gavinsansom6266 haha.. I might have to write a letter of apology to Future Chris!
Thanks Chris, never underestimate a bloke in his shed. Let 'er rip.
@@lanceneuman9528 thanks Lance!!
Than you for sharing a great video...That pump knew what was coming if it didn't get out of the way...Great price for a new valve...At least there were no mice nests in there...-John
I'm getting through a lot of hammers on this project!
Congratulations on figuring out the valve! I know I’m still in the minority, but I don’t think I wouldn’t overthink it.. messing with old farm equipment for better than 25 years. I’m amazed what will run on these old low compression American engines.. again, even if you lose 25% of your horsepower through old age.. that thing is going to have so much torque in a car chassis I don’t think you’ll notice.. I think you’re right about doing the rebuild when you know everything is solid.. good luck, I’m loving this build…
I am still desperately trying to hang on to the 'do as little as possible' approach... but I'm getting sucked in...!
The Devil on one shoulder, an Angel on the other. "Let it go, start it ASAP. It will bring instant gratification" says the Devil. "If you must" says the Angel, "at least soak the bores with some magic elixir before the big event." Great job on the valve mod.
I've just given the devil a Leffe beer to keep him quiet!
@@thebracketfactory Angel dice: pon algo de ATF en los cilindros, hazlo girar con el starter sin bujias y dale el deseo al diablo🤞Gran trabajo con la valvula
I’d pull the main heads and clean the bores up. It would make me cringe hitting that starter button, but you have already turned it over. Damage might be done already.
Spinning on the starter is only about 30 to 60 rpm, so *hoping* I've not done too much harm... but 1500 rpm is a a different kettle of fish! Jury remains out.....!
Anneel the head gaskets, put mystery marvel oil in cylinders, otherwise the plan seems good, if you using an inlet valve for exhaust it wont hold up to the heat?? you cut off the hardened surface for the valve pushrod?? Looking forward to lift off!!
Could be right about the hardened end of the rod... If (I mean 'when'!!) I get the engine running I'll keep an eye in that - quite handy to be able to 'peer in'!!
I thought the carbs looked familiar and this was confirmed when you mentioned that Holdens had them for decades. There was a hot Holden called an X2 which came with two of them and they delivered smooth power considering the small size of the engine.
I was thinking the engine would make a great powerplant for land speed racing ..... Vintage flat head class maybe.
Hey up mate think the X2 started with HD but was definitely on HR Holden's, X2 was a sports option on these models
Heads off. BDC each piston. Gentle wire wheel brush ( possibly Brass ) on each bore should reveal any pitting / scoring. Clean up piston crowns too. Thoroughly blow out each bore. May be a good idea to add some diesel to each bore & let it seep down to the rings as they are likely gummed up.Lube bores with engine oil & turn several times by hand to check for 'orrible noises and bore residues. Wipe each out at BDC. Relube each and start it. Is the small pipe to the water pump an oil pressure feed for the bearings or maybe a greaser??
Great video and great progress. As far as starting it, I would be very tempted just to go for it as is.
@@tamarmolerick3814 i am also extremely tempted to!!
Good plan.... Put it all back together and go for a start...(listen to your other "inner voice", I say)...! If it was a high performance race engine, plans might be different... It won't take long for the rings to scrape off the surface rust - just change the oil a few times.😁😁
Got to admit... very tempted! Going to have another peek at all the other bores and then bite one bullet or the other !
Plan B gets my full approval!
Definitely at least a light hone on the bores.
I'm subscribed because of Mr. Tweed... I owe him money... Cheers from the Shed
Thanks for stopping by! Hope you are feeling better.
@@thebracketfactory Thanks for asking!
Being that you found a broken valve and there is some rust, to save the rings and give the old girl a good chance at starting, I would say take the heads off and hone the bores. You can check out the condition of the cylinders and clean the ports out of the soot.
As I'm sure you're well aware, one important part of a project is keeping motivation......never leave at a problem.
...another important part is progress and enjoyment, fire her up ASAP.
Cheers & good luck. Reading, Berkshire.
Thanks for the video. I'd just try to get it started at this point, maybe put some oil or secret sauce in the cylinders with the spark plugs out, let it sit, then carefully evacuate that material to clean up the cylinders a bit? I imagine the rabbit hole is a bit deep if you start getting carried away....
Ah the dreaded rabbit hole... I'm being sucked in!
I just tried clicking on your merch link and it just takes me a Bigcartel login page. Don't want you to miss out on some sales! :) Really enjoying all the videos.
Thanks for the heads up Peter! Just fixed that :-)
If you check out Mat Armstrong’s latest video, he used some marvel mystery oil to put into the bores to remove surface rust. Maybe worth a go. Fantastic videos, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for the tip!
That's great progress. Regarding the rust in the bores I think it is whether you intend to rebuild it anyway. I'd soak the bores in diesel for a week and give it a go.
There are still a lot of unknowns on the engine and if you take the heads off and clean up the bores you'll start saying, having come this far should I look at the bearings? An engine like this can swallow up money really quickly.
I've watched a few old cars in the states being started after lying around for 40+ years. Lots of cranking and smoke but the guy just wants to hear it run before deciding what to do with it.
Whatever you decide, it will be right for you.
I like the style of your videos. Lots of information but not endless footage spent on cleaning rust.👍
you are right about it swallowing money - there is so much of it! 8 head gaskets and 84 head bolts!!!
Amazing progress the rings will be brittle with age maybe oil the bores add a little graphite ? and just turn over on the battery first of all in truth this motor will be running in no time at all for you to access its faults or other loved the video thanks.
@@daviddjerassi cheers David 👍. I’ll get it running ‘eventually’… but don’t hold your breath!
well done Mr Bracket , your making progress...I would soak the cylinder bores with ATF and acetone, that should clean them up
@@robbollom7396 cheers Rob 👍. yes, I deffo need to do something with those bores!
Clever bloke … enjoy watching you go about solving problems.
What’s the intentions for the motor ?
Cheers Darryn. Plan is to stick it in. 1930’s chassis and make a Brooklands type racer !
Great video, I'd just put some diesel in the bores and spin it on the starter it should remove most of the rust.
Good morning , I don't wish to be a hindsight know all but would it have been a good plan to bung almost any thin oil product down the bores before even rolling it over?.
Diesal even, I think you have rolled the engine over quite a few times now so that should have revealed the state of the bores pretty much or am I missing something.
I am amazed how you intuited that a daf engine would yield the right valve that was pure genius. I saw the saw ! method of getting the broken spark lug out on the shorts you did .
I look forward to hearing the stubby / zoomie exhausts flame out oil and sundry particles in the workshop. Yay get the fire extinguisher .. All the best forward and upwards
Cheers Bryan - Excellent advice about the fire extinguisher!!!
I agree, do the bare minimum for it too run, the alternative is an expensive full overhaul with machining costs and unobtainium parts.
I say give her a go given it turns over freely and whilst large, would be lowly stressed and you probably need a boost to maintain the enthusiasm. Those Strombergs were fitted to numerous Holdens for decades, some in twin and even triple fittings, so there must be a wealth of knowledge out there.
I do like the idea of a few more carbs... I am a bit if a SU fan so perhaps 6 of those... but lets get her running 1st!
@ look up Hume Performance for several multiple Strommie solutions, but I suspect the SU route is easier and cheaper.
By the way there's a good reason those manifolds are linked. Carb icing is a real problem without water heated intake manifolds or an exhaust hot spot. Imagine the butterflies stuck fully open sprinting towards a corner on pram wheels and cable brakes🤣🤣🤣
Just imagining the the butterflies stuck open... it sounds amazing!!
You also need manifold heat so the farthest cylinders get a good atomized mix rather than have a lot of it condense in a cold runner at lower speeds and temperatures.
I love plasticine, my favourite thing when I was a kid. I went on the shop to look at the hoodies, but it just took me straight to a site with all sorts of clothing on, like H&M sort of thing. I was expecting a list of your merch.
Thanks Dale - link now fixed, though no plasticine for sale!!!
Thanks to our mate Bryan for turning me on to yet another genius with a knack for giving old engines the love they need - but this time on a gigantic scale.Chris -- I hope you find the chassis as I can't wait to hear this beast running and driving. Perhaps Bryan may know somebody who's got one stashed away somewhere!
@@stevepearce1913 thank for tuning in and glad you like it! It WILL run..just not sure when!
get the bad head welded up and re- machine it bud , be like new and all comppresions will be similer 😁🤘🤘
Without any hesitation I would strongly advise you to clean the bores up before you attempt to run it or even turn it over further if you don't you seriously risk broken rings which are probably already stuck anyway but broken rings stuck in their grooves will likely cause more damage to the bores.
I noticed that the valve seats appeared to cut quite easily with your seat cutter this means that the heads are made from a fine grain cast iron which is an unsuitable material for use with unleaded fuel so if you rebuild that engine I would advise the fitting of hardened valve seats, Other grades of cast iron will work harden and don't suffer this problem.
Hi Grant, thanks for tuning and the comments. Very good point about the valve seats and unleaded fuel, cheers!
I would expect those copper gaskets are meant to be reused. Back in the day you were probably expected to pull those covers and clean and inspect as part of the service schedule.
these ones have no choice... they are getting re-used whether they like it or not...
Good progress so far, I would have the heads off. A bit odd the carbs being mounted that way round, look out for running weak on fast right hand bends with the floats on one side like that. Turning them so the floats are at the front would prevent that and might make the linkcage easier too sort out.
Good point about the carbs Bernard!
good job with the valve..
re 'the bores' just through plenty of lube down there and turn it over for a bit...you're only wanting to see if it runs. Leave the bores until the rebuild, IF thats whats going to happen
Cheers @mcm9329 ! I'm going to have another peek at the other cylinders, followed by some more sucking through teeth...!
@@thebracketfactory "money pits are created by the decisions we make"..justsayin
@@mcm9329 very true!! Financially I’m in up to my knees.. time wise, my waist. Not keen to wade much deeper unless i know I can get to the other side!
@@thebracketfactory good luck...it will be utterly awesome when done
I agree with a lot of others give a hone. After all it’s zero cost just a bit of time. Which could save money in long run. I am sure after first run it will be stripped down and built fully.
A popular choice Anthony... and one of my inner voices is shouting that!
Is it worth sticking some atf fluid down the bores and leave it in a few days then suck it back out to try and de rust it a bit?
I think the rust looked far worse than it actually is (the extreme close up as not flattering!)... but still not finalised my next move!
Probably better to hone the cylinder bores before attempting a start, I'm sure you don't need all that rust floating around the rings. Although on second thoughts you have already rotated the engine on the starter. I don't understand why the rings haven't already wiped it away?
All good points Chris - spinning on the starter is pretty slow so and I've not done it all that much, but running at 1000 rpm for 1 min would be a different kettle of fish..... Jury is still 'out' for now!
If you are thinking of changing rings and pistons anyway, just send it? 😂
Orherwise, heads off and hone 👍
I think the pistons are hewn from pure unobtanium!
@ probably need to strip down the engine and re-hone the bores then 🤷♂️ 😳
You might have an easier time to keep upthe steam (motivation) if you don't know the state of the engine at the moment, when you think about how early you are in the project. I'm looking forward to the next episode 🙂
Hi Johnny, I am thinking of a day trip to Brooklands to get a new head of steam... the big V12 can sit and 'stew' for a day or two before the Jury returns a verdict!
@@thebracketfactory "Stew" a day or two sounds like an excellent plan, hope you have a good experience at Brookland, which doesn't get to many crazy plans put into action in your busy head ;-)
Morning, lots of progress. There must be a product you could pour/ spray into the bores to remove the surface rust. Rather than strip the engine. Good luck
There must be some kind of product that I could spray in there to at least break the rust down and 'soften' it...
@ or fill them with WD40 and leave it for a bit then tip it out.
Add a water-based chelation product down the rusty bores, pump out the solution and dry it all out. After this there may also be some merit in putting an atf and acetone mix to help free any stuck piston rings. In Australia, I use KBS Rust Blast as the chelating product - I highly recommend it.
I like plan B .if it was my motor I’d just start it with bare minimum work and money. If it runs and you’re happy with it you can go ahead with your plan for building a car . you can take it apart give it the full rebuild in the future. Thanks
It's now looking like Plan B 1/2 !!
Take it apart
Free up the rings and quick cylinder hone
Clean and inspect everything
Don’t do more damage !
Head to block gasket would possibly be an issue
haha - don't make me do it!!
Heads off, rust will be like grinding paste in there
yes... I'm inclined to agree....
Well if it runs and you are going to strip will you rebore it! If so then fill bores with diesel and turn engine over for a few minutes which will release piston rings and ease bores. Plugs out of course! Then go through start up procedure to see if runs. I would fill with water as with a block that long there must be a chance of heat variation through the block and it will start soaking the spaces between the cylinders. If there is a bad crack some where it will probably self declare. Not overly scientific but you are passing over that format for basic pragmatic check and this saves you the cost of head gaskets and any other funnies that this design may have. As you said is it running or is it furniture!
Thanks for comments Glyn. Really want to avoid rebore and new pistons/rings. Don’t think they are even available! Still tip toeing through the minefield!!
@ As for parts be unconventional. You know that at need repair was going to have double six cylinder expense. You have flat head pistons so don’t forget to look at motor cycle market and industrial static engines. If you find something old a mm big you will have room to turn it down. People make piston rings from cast iron drain pipes machined down and even cast their own pistons. For what you may need to do and the performance you wish to extract you do not need F1 accuracy but that does not mean you can be slap dash.
when is the Wragg going to the track?
Funnily enough the Wragg was asking me the same question !! I have a big pile of sexy race engine parts but the big V12 is hogging the limelight!
👍👍👍
Thanks for tuning in !
Pull the heads clean the bores with a honing tool 😁
A popular choice!! Jury remains 'out' for now!
@thebracketfactoroh i forgot you're the judge and jury 🤣
@ unfortunately I am judge, jury AND defendant so I will have to ‘serve the time’!!
@thebracketfactory your doing a great job please carry on
you need 6 carburators like that 😁
@@nvdelinde2169 yes, I’m already thinking that!!
I’d just run it up. The rust in those bores will be gone in a minute.
If you strip it further, then brace yourself for a proper rebuild, because it’s guaranteed that you’ll find something you’re not happy with, and once you start…
I think you are right ... more horrors to be found for sure!!
Surely inserted valve seats could rectify that damaged valve seat.
Hi David, yes the could... but I'm not quite ready to 'invest' yet!
Absolutely remove the rust on the bores. Light hone should do it
That is the most popular vote Michael!
Dont hone it just scotch brite the bore with lite oil. Its fine,
You are gonna be sorry if you don't hone the bores and break a ring or more
You may have a point there!!
Mate your in deep already so remove the pistons clean bores crank, lot of repatriation work but will be better than trying to buy parts that are not available
Waist deep so far... just don't want to go up to my forehead!
I am in first lol
I hope you left some for the others!!
don't labour the point, could been 10 minutes vid, if nob for all the useless waffle
Thanks, all feedback gratefully received 👍.