Negative rigging basics Pt.2 | Using a Rigging Block or Pulley | how-to Arborist climber tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- More resources at www.stridertrees.com/ Strider is focused on training the next generation of climbers, arborists and other tree workers in safer, more efficient work practices at height and on the ground.
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I so wish I was 30 years younger. I absolutely loved doing tree work. My first job was on a horse ranch which I also loved, and I can't really say which one I enjoyed more. An ideal career for me would be to do a little of both!
Pretty much exactly how I did it back in my climbing days. I so wish we had TH-cam back then.
I would love to see a video on the ropes that you use for different applications, and specifically what the weight limits are for those uses. Thank you for your videos you’re doing a great job.
Love that hardhat and the decal you have on it
Thanks 🙏🏽 my bro designed and put that together
Just watched this again. One thing I noticed that I missed last time is that you're using a standard lanyard. Since you have two tie-in points, it's not really a big deal, but I would always use a lanyard with a steel cable inside so I wouldn't accidentally cut through it with the chainsaw (I admit I never had two tie-in lines, but I should have).
this was 10x the info I was searching for. Thanks for the demo!
thanks for the tips, thanks, you explain everything very well. I will learn a lot with your videos since I do not know anything but I want to learn. thank you
Your video's are great and very well put together , Thanks for going to great lengths to make a quality training lesson .
I agree!
glad you've found them helpful
Did negative rigging pretty much for first time today and kept worrying that the pulley would pull down on the lanyard and climbing limb (tied with running bowline) and knock me out of the tree. Thankfully that didn't happen, but I definitely see the advantage of how you put it below where you're tied in.
It's quite a skill once you get the hang of it. What I really liked about this video is he realized that his lanyard was tangled in with the rigging and he corrected it, which was a great example to show that every climber, no matter how experienced, needs to double check everything before making the final cut. As he said, if you make sure it will hit below your feet and you're securely tied in, you have nothing to worry about. Just have fun and enjoy the ride!
Very clear and fun way to demonstrate the reality! Thanks mate. Stay safe. Btw will try this tomorrow heh
Great video . Thanks. Send more
I also like how you do not edit out typical snags that happen to everyone. Nice videos.
I usually use a large & a medium rigging ring on a large branch with the port-a-wrap @ the bottom of the 🌳 I'm in. Tomorrow I am forced to only use the large rigging ring. I have a dead oak that I took many branches off of already. To finish the job I have a port-a-wrap @ the bottom of an oak 20 feet from the other oak I'm removing branches from. There is a fence that is under a large branch so I need it to clear that fence & swing over to the other oak with the rigging setup to clear the fence. Because I can only use the one rigging ring I am going to take the branch to a fork & then finish the short but heavy section of the branch with my 2nd cut. The nice thing is that when I'm finished with that dead oak I can run my rigging line from that ring to the ground @ a 45* angle & hook that rigging rope to a Maasdam rope puller to take down that 2nd oak with only 1 cut from the ground. The 2nd oak is also dead but not as dead or heavy as the other one that I've almost completed. But I definitely will use 2 rings whenever I have a negative rigging situation.
Great vedio very informative
What happened to the 8 second buzzer? That was a nice ride and video. Thanks for the info.
Olá amigo muito obrigado por vc compartilhar suas informações Deus abençoe
muy buen video en horabuena, tengo una pregunta que modelo de motosierra a bateria usas ? es una MAKITA y te va bien en una jornada de poda?
Should make a video on limb rigging
When does it matter what size block you use
Thanks
What chain are you using?
Only thing I don't like about rings is you have to take the rope out of the eye to reposition on a wider stem area or if you need to move it. I prefer a 1.5 rock exotica omni block, carabiner and web sling either in girth or basket configuration. easily open side plate to remove rope to readjust. However, watch your weight when negative rigging, you are applying 2x the dynamic force(total weight) to the block, biner and sling.
How big of a piece can you drop with that set up?
@@aaronlauer8378 Err to the side of caution. I can't really say how much. However, I will say I snapped a biner and a sling in a girth hitch configuration on separate occasions. Both times were large stem pieces. I would use this setup for limb pieces that aren't going to shock load it too heavily. Also, care using this setup, you're biner could end up side loading and they are much less strong that way.
Nice Video man 👌🏻how do you Like the Edelrid Treerex?
I’ll have a video about it coming soon :)
In one of your videos could you talk about how your wrapping up your long slings and ropes that are on your harness?
My secret is that I don’t climbs with much on my harness, i just have the groundie tie it all on when I’m ready for it :)
@@Stridertrees Specifically I am interested in the long sling on your right side. Is it wrapped in a daisy chain or similar for quick release?
@@justinjones9255 a daisy chain is a quick release
That makita runs pretty quiet I'm getting one
What amp hour batteries do you use? My 3amphour don’t give much run time, they may just be old though, having used them on other tools for a few years.
I use 5ah and 6ah batteries on my 36v Makita saws. Their's a big difference in run time between the 5ah and the 6ah.
I use the 5ah ones and couldn’t imagine going any smaller, I’ll usually change batteries once or twice on a removal or between prunes just in case. That saw can really eat through some power
Hi, when you finish your job, you take off the knots of the rope on your bridge? (I have the same harness TreeRex By Edelrid)
Regards from Ecuador 🇪🇨
no I usually leave the knots on the bridge in place
Anyway you could do a solo rigging video? I have been working through this as it’s just myself lately. It’s a real pain. Having to go up and down constantly, with a portawrap located on the ground locking off smaller tuff after I cut it. Hopefully you could expound on this. I know it’s not ideal but not having a groundie happens.
It’s very much unsafe to be climbing without anyone else around. The likelihood of dropping a branch on your climb line is high, not to mention the fact that without someone to untie the rigged branches it makes for a lot of climbing.
That being said it can be useful to know how to send rig a branch down on your own in case the groundsmen is off doing something else at that moment but will return shortly. (And I do have a video coming for that ;) )
It’s definitely unsafe. Thanks for the quick response. I’ve seen some videos of guys using rope wrench’s for added friction in the canopy and lowering them themselves but not a real explanation of what they are doing. Looking forward to the video.
Climbing arborist shows a double block rigging system that uses a pully on the piece, so the doubled line can be untied from the top, by the cut after the piece is on the ground and then pulled out of the pulley and reset. no up and down for the climber. th-cam.com/video/sa2YV5ylGk8/w-d-xo.html
@@murphy4trees yes that’s a sort of double whip tackle, but you’d still have to retrieve the block on the piece on the ground. Unless maybe you were using a bunch of speed line slings or something similar but eventually something would have to be retrieved.
I've always been told that single rings are for redirection only. You need a double ring for a safe terminal point. Why do I keep seeing ALL of the TH-cam folks only using a single ring as a terminal rigging point. Any info on it would be helpful clearing up the confusion. TIA
Contrary to popular belief, double rings do not have a better bend radius than a single ring. They do have more mass which helps with heat dissipation, but that's about the only benefit they offer.
@@zaccheus you might have to bring some sort of documented proof on that claim. As everywhere I look to find anything about that concept it says only use single rings as a redirect. Wesspur sent me their newest single ring and I will admit it is quite beefier than any single I've had in my hand so there might be something to it. Although, for the time being, when in use, the double rings will still be on my terminal end.
@@kenbiggs7976 Yeah, of course. Samson suggests in several places in their literature that braided rope should never see a bend tighter than three times the diameter of the rope around static surfaces that create more than a 10° bend in the rope. They recommend a ratio of 5:1 where possible. Over a sheave they recommend an 8:1 ratio for braided rope and a 10:1 ratio for three strand rope. There aren't any blocks in the arborist industry made to those specifications. The closest I have found is the big yellow ISC block with a 4 5/8" sheave with a 5/8" rope in it which yields a 7.4:1 ratio. Double rings have the exact same bend radius as a single ring. The bend is just broken up into two halves; one half of the bend on each ring. Instead of one 180° bend you have two 90° bends. Both of which are still less than the recommended 3:1 ratio for most rope/ring combinations. There is one exception I know of and that is the bend-right ring which is wide enough to support a 4.5:1 ratio on 1/2" rope, 4:1 ratio on a 9/16" rope, a 3.6:1 ratio on 5/8" rope and a 3:1 ratio on 3/4" rope. All of the samson information I referenced can be seen here on page 6/8: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/default-document-library/warning-insert.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjx9MLLtOH7AhWGlGoFHdIkC-UQFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3iist9WrLluk8dghuIHFED
@@zaccheus thanks for the breakdown. Makes much more sense now. I appreciate your knowledge and understanding greatly.
@@kenbiggs7976 No problem! Thanks for challenging me with your comments! There isn't a real authority on the use of rings. Folks have been using them for awhile now with success.
I think ur climbing line got compromise being underneath it
Cut the top take the ride!
(Don't forget the side cuts before the back cut)
Side cuts? Why? Sounds dangerous to me.
Double whip next?
That’s some fancy stuff there, probably save that for a more advanced skills series ;)
Am not a native English speaker, what's the word am hearing here 3:20-3:24. Am hearing something like "blay out"
Belay out
the weak point is the half hitch. It's weaker than the knot.. use a slip knot to secure the line in the block between cuts.. too much distance between cut and block. Better to snug up block with as little slop in the sling as possible. for east coast trees, the impact of the piece slamming back into the trunk causes more shake than the weight coming on the rope. When the piece gets run, the impact on the trunk is lower, which makes for less of a ride. That's more of a factor than the weight coming into the line though all bets are off when dealing with those tall skinny west coast conifers. Have you met Bixler?
Do you have a video of some knot testing to failure that corroborates what you are saying about the half-hitch. I’d like to see that if it’s there, I have good reason to believe that my method is stronger but I’d be happy to see otherwise, because a simple running bowline is easier to tie.
@@Stridertrees It's been well established within the lexicon. Double up your bowline and use it without the half hitch or the marl for peak loads.
Very nice. I think that block is very overkill for that piece.
It was, but better too big than too small. It's a demo, so....
I heard u negative rig with a ring.