Spreading the Gospel about conversion. o_0 I came in for an Anvil conservation video, and got a Billy Graham revival... >_< Let me preach the wonders of conversion brothers and sisters... ^_^ I'm a believer Reverend Mark, halleluiah and pass the oil... ~_^
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@@ditzydoo4378 Pass the oil? No. Pass on the oil. Go with kerosene!
Mark, I wish our high school / university lab had someone like you teaching us how to make... well, anything! It would have made me appieciate design tech so much more!
Although it's not the first time I've seen this on Anvil, I'm always amazed at the process and especially the results. Thanks for posting all your videos.
@@marknovak8255 One thing about that tank that is worrying though is the exposed Kaowool, that stuff is very nasty if the fibers get into your lungs, you should think about covering it with something so that you aren't breathing those in whenever they get disturbed.
OMB... brother I could have used you 25 years ago when I was a dealer. But heck you're schooling me and I'm killing it purchasing old rusty's and fix'n them up.. Buy low sell high... laughing all the way to the bank! Keep it up you're a jewel...
I keep a bottle of cold blue handy and blue some of my tools. I have dabbled in rust bluing but some people don’t like it when I boil a hammer head in a pot on the stove.
The conversion process is so simple, a shame so many fine old firearms suffered from the attack of the 50 wire wheel. Once that's done, there ain't no going back.
I just actually made some ammo for the rifle I conserved With the help of your non-tutorial videos. Guy at the shop sure did look at me funny when I said I was loading .43 Spanish.
Ive got an ancient 97 Winchester in dire need of rust conversion. I just need to find a suitable tank. The thing is almost as long as a flintlock musket.
In addition to the gutter mentioned there's also an old Anvil video where a steam pipe is demonstrated, I think it was just a loosely capped PVC pipe on top of a pot of boiling water. As I recall it was mentioned that's the way it was done large scale anyway, as steam was readily available in old factories.
The full conservation video is ReUploading now. No bandwidth at the shop. Home telecom is crap, so I have to do the upload from home . Gutter fab shown there
I have sent many people from Reddit your way. Anytime I see someone post a rusty gun and say something like "I need to get the wire brush and clean this up" I hope I have saved at least one original finish...
You know, I wonder, How did an E-div Chief, a 51-Chief, get so into mechanical stuff? I'm just waiting for you to start looking for a 480V 400 amp load center to plug your drill press into. Btw, I like how you fixed your starter on that salvaged lathe. Nice save. -Dave
The control box was burned out. Reverse engineered the controls and interlocking. It's all up under the bench. Not bad for the 50 bucks I gave for it, eh? I went to the recruiter 2 weeks after Reagan announced the 600 ship Navy, to be a gunners mate. Got a 99 on the ASVAB, they made me an EM Nuke. My mom still thinks I was a piano player in a French whorehouse. I don't want to let her down, so shhhhhhhhhh.........
@@marknovak8255 One of the things that a lot of the New improved Navy doesn't understand was the transitional phase between classes, 37's and 88's, that time period was especially hard on people in the divisions you had a hand in. It isn't like it is today. Just like 40's and the 26's. It took some flexible people to get that underway.
Hi! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here! Your videos are amazing. Could you tell with kind of "metal wheel" you use to remove rust without attacking the original bluing ? A link or a reference so I can buy the same type on the internet ? Thank you!
I got a sweet sixteen im gonna duracoat it had real bad chemical damage all the engravings were removed to smooth the pitting by the previous owner so no collectors value got an almost complete gun for 150$ it aint pretty but it'll be a nice all weather quail gun when im done and I'll be able to hunt with an A5 but wont have to take my nice ones out in 90% humidity
My friend bought a 93 Marlin that had been a closet queen for 80 plus years back east .Nice bore, nice wood outside plum brown receiver still showed case colors. I begged him to let me do the conservation to it with no avail. Rifles like that one are rare in Montana. Local Sourced guns of that vintage look like they rode in the back of the wagon with dog and barbwire and the put in the barn rafters till grandson found graps old cowboy gun and ran a few old corrosive shells threw it before someone found out about it. Then when the new owners of the ranch from California were tearing down the old barn found it and took it to the gun show and trying to sell it $5000 because it has character and nice patina.
Your videos are awesome. Thank you! I confess that I inherited 3 shotguns 100+ years old and an 18th Century Brown Bess musket, none of which have been cared for properly. Oh and an 1871 Remington Rolling Block that’s in just awful condition. NO - I am not going to start on the Brown Bess. There are a couple of nasty .22 rifles that should be good test subjects.
While I may trust Mark to use his skill and discretion with a wire wheel, I do not trust *myself*!! So when I have a similar project, I use a wad of *copper wool* soaked in ATF to gently persuade the rust blemishes to fade away. I use long, lengthwise strokes wherever possible. It does take an incredibly long time, but I'm not paid by the hour, like Mark. And with extremely tough rust, I might resort to 0000 steel wool and ATF. I have successfully used this method on several rifles, and on a couple, even blue touchup was unnecessary! Thanks, Mark!
The wheel used here is a .0025" carding wheel, NOT a wire wheel. That's why I stuck my finger in the card while it was running, and showed the part number and where to get one if you wanted to use power.
@@briankli 4 pole motor, 1800rpm ish. I was given that long shaft Baldor buffer a long time ago by a former smith, but you don't need anything near that complex
@@marknovak8255 Thanks, mark! (I'm nervous about using power, but that's just me...) Do you ever use ATF or other oils to help carry away the rust? great video!!
@@marknovak8255 Thank you! I would love to have a buffer setup like yours but I think I'll just have to make do with the carding wheel attached to my drill press. Thanks again and thanks for the passing of knowledge! It is greatly appreciated!
Your videos are great, I'm going to share them with my dad (a former Navy Machinist Mate and bubblehead). A quick question about the boiling/conservation: are you using regular tap water? I've seen other videos and web-pages that say use distilled water only. I'd guess that having as few additional minerals and chemicals (copper, chlorine, fluoride, etc...) in the mix to interfere with the rust reaction is best. But in your experience, does it make a difference?
i have another question....where did you get the reducers or arbors for your buffer shaft to get it down to the carding wheel size...or did you make them yourself?????
Thank you for the conversion tingles. This damnedable toilet flange for the ss pot still! Menards stopped carrying 'odd' sizes of PVC fittings, so still trying to source that.
@@marknovak8255 Steam tube build short video! Haha, I hate to need my hand held, and have thought about just using a 4" closet flange and just putting long bolts through to hold the 6" tube on, but thinking water will run down the inside of tube, leak out of the flange onto the pot lid, and then up over the edges of the lid onto my burner. If not that, thought about a 4" flange with a $20 4" to 6" reducing/increase fitting, and just allowing it to neck down at the base. Not ideal either though.
Sir I’m working on a Sauer & Sohn 12ga for a customer of mine. Having trouble getting the floor plate screw out of the bottom for disassembly to clean. Do you have any recommendations? I’ve tried repeated applications of Kroil and some heat already. Thanks for your time. Enjoy your channel
Quick question, my krag sporter I bought took 4 1/2 hours to clean and it started like the Beretta barrels and I got it cleaned pretty good. it looks like the rear of the action is sort of blued but the barrel is just white, with many black spots of patina, I still wipe it down from time to time and it still comes off silver black after I wipe the barrel. Is that just the left over bluing, I did have to do use ultra fine steel wool and hoppes due to not being able to boil the barrel and action
Just this past weekend I bought 6 guns from an estate. 3 were SxS percussion shotguns, one a Wesley Richards. The passed collector lived right on the bay (salt water) and didn't take care of his valuable firearms. The SXS shotguns have rusty bores, my question is do I go straight into the tank? Or do I try to get some of the loose mung out first? After conversion I guess use the oil free 4-O steel wool on a pistol drill. Great videos Mark!
QUESTION: I was given a small set of carding wheels that are a variety of stiffness but are a nylon or other polymer. I have bought an old Coast to Coast 20ga pump that was mostly in the garage on the farm. Can or should I use the new wheels. I'm curious of how it will turn out. A lot of mung but blue underneath.
@@marknovak8255 Thank you for the answer. I am a kinda talented amateur, and I like to acquire skills. You will never see my attempt at checkering. Or 2nd 3rd, 50th. But this I can do.
Loved watching this video, I have an regular old Mossberg shotgun that needs rest removal and stock repair. I have to ask how much your labor charge is...... so it's probally too much 😅😂😅😂
@@marknovak8255 At risk of sounding like an idiot, in the case of a shotgun wouldnt firing a shell or three of small birdshot tend to clean scuzz out of the barrel?
@@Danglebarry62 Scuzz, rust, cosmoline, wads, plastic.....are all bore obstructions. All of which must not be present in order to safely fire a round. Just my opinion
@@marknovak8255 The barrels have been boiled out, you've had your hands on them, you've looked down them 100x, what obstruction do you anticipate there to be from surface rust when the projectile diameter is maybe 1/10 that of the bore? In the case of a rifled barrel or a slug? Perhaps. Loose shot? Zero chance.
When boiling the barrels & then carding , what do you do about the inside of the barrels , how do you clean them after boiling . Do you use a brass brush to card the sling swivels? Would this be the best way to go on some milsurp rifles that I have ?
You do not apply the rust bluing solution to the inside of the barrels so there is no need to do any thing to the inside of the barrels. After boiling you just oil the inside of the barrels. (In normal rust bluing.) If you need to remove rust from inside the barrels it can be done with a brass brush (possibly wrapped in fine steel wool).
@@wadekirby8575 Exactly but if more applications and boiling needed I wouldn't oil the bores yet, just dry out with a bore rod and shop roll otherwise the oil will contaminate the water. Polish bores an oil when finished.
Mark, towards the end of the video you mention that one set of barrels needed to be converted at least 3-4 more times. Just curious if you meant straight boil for 3-4 times then card at the end, or boil and card, repeat 3-4 times
Will this conservation process work on a hot dipped blue finish? Will it look right? I've got a 1960s Ithaca 37 that kinda looks like that old 1887 in a few places. Like brown oil soaked rust. Other less handled places still have the original finish. It shoots great and I wanna keep it going. I'm afraid if I boil it out and card it it'll look splotchy, like rust blued in some spots and hot dipped in others.
Sorry for the delay, just saw this. Hot dip is tricky, sometime you can, sometimes not. Convert first, and take a look. You may be surprised. If not, strip it down and start fresh.
@@marknovak8255 I might try to start fresh on a low value pawn shop scatter gun first. This was my grandfather's shotgun, and if I louse it up my mother will surely cause harm to me. I just want to stop it before the pitting goes from barely visible to letting light in. I actually considered waiting until she dies so I wouldn't have to admit to her if i screwed it up.
@@rgbgamingfridge The gun I'm working on is a pump action. I don't think there's a soldered joint on it. I'm by no means an expert at anything, but I'm pretty sure i wouldn't have dropped an old set of tubes in hot salts, already knowing that ribs are soldered on. I question the common sense of that guy. You know, from up here on my high horse. And I'm planning to boil it in water not hot dip it. I'm doing this in my garage. I'm not sure im even set up to get that amount of bluing solution that hot. It's like 350f or something. My little Coleman white gas stove is gonna get a workout with that.
Is there any concerns with using the boiling water conversion on twist steel barrels? I have a 1907 Parker 12 bore PH Model that are marked Twist that I would like to conserve. Appreciate any thoughts.
i looked in your other videos but only found your snippet about building a conversion tank, did you do a full on video on your conversion process? Have you looked at any of the water based chemical rust removers on the market?
We haven't moved all of the older videos over to this page yet. Uploading the full conservation video now, standby........But it was dropped from its former playlist on the other site.
Are you kidding me ? This wheel causes cancer . You sir are living very dangerously . 😂 your videos are amazing and I enjoy them all a great deal . Carry on
Hell don't u know the fresh mountain air causes cancer in the State of California ! The freaking brains r fried out there ! I think all the common sense has been bred out of humanity out there !
Great to see some old side by sides in your videos.. Is that JP Sauer set a laminated barrel? Do you worry about any gaps in the rib that would cause rust to build up under it between the barrels after boiling? Big fan! Keep up the great work Mark!
In reference to any conversion under the barrel ribs. Will oil/kerosene soaking stop the remaining oxidation not able to be carted odd from developing?
If I had to guess it would be becausebit would mess with the temper of the metal since they are blued at ~400°c if I remember the luger blueing video correctly.
Doubles are usually soldered together with a lower temperature solder. The temps needed to hot blue would loosen the solder and mess up the regulation.
@@daveb7397 this is the right answer,valid for most doubles but not all. Many Belgian doubles are hard soldered and can take hot blueing without coming loose, but you'd better be sure before dipping into that hot salt tank!
Hi, I have watched several of your vids... very interesting.... and I know this an older one... but I have a question..... I have a 20 gauge double shotgun... steel barrels... but they have a few small dents in them... now my question is of course... Can these dent be taken out or at least partly??? Thanks
Just water, really. It's called rust bluing. You convert the unstable red iron oxide (Fe2O3) to stable black iron oxide (Fe3O4) by essentially getting the oxygen in the water to "donate" to the rust layer. It's really an amazing finish for firearms and tools.
He told me I could, but I would LOVE for him to do that video. I have a CMP M1 that’s in nice shape but definitely needs this. Hey I’d volunteer my M1 too!
Hey mark, have any tips to clean a smoke damaged inland m1 carbine stock? Bought this gun from a shop that caught fire for a whole $30 luckily most guns were ok besides rust(from the obvious)and smoke damage..just need a product reccomendation, hopefully something i dont need to order. i was thinking murphys oil soap on a rag.
When I first saw the double barrels I thought "oh goody we'll see the Gunsmith solder some loose ribs". Aw waaa, another bluing video. ;-) interesting none the less.
@@marknovak8255 Great video. I watched a gunsmith in my area do it. There was a lot more smoke when he did it than you. I know it's a lot of work and if you do it wrong you can end up doing the whole thing over. Thanks for posting and I hope people don't hot blue their shotguns.
@@marknovak8255 Okay awesome. Two quick questions about your carding wheel, what rpm do you run it at and have you used the brass wheel instead of steel? I'd think the brass would be more gentle but I wonder if it's too soft that it may transfer brass to the parts and/or it might not be aggressive enough to remove the oxide.
@@JPMotorhead1993 Self-employed machinist and amateur gunsmith here. In my experience , brass wire wheels can impart a yellowish tint to the metal depending on the surface finish and the hardness of the brass wire. Obviously , you would want to test it on some scrap first. I think you may find that the brass will be too soft to be effective on anything but the finest of rust. But it's worth experimenting. Good luck with your projects .
Followed your process with great interest, however in none of the clips I've found do you mention how you clean up the bore after conversion boiling. Bronze brush on a rod?
th-cam.com/video/rShG_F85W1Y/w-d-xo.html ReUploaded this video that takes a much deeper look at the process and the gear to accomplish it.
Spreading the Gospel about conversion. o_0 I came in for an Anvil conservation video, and got a Billy Graham revival... >_< Let me preach the wonders of conversion brothers and sisters... ^_^ I'm a believer Reverend Mark, halleluiah and pass the oil... ~_^
@@ditzydoo4378 Pass the oil? No. Pass on the oil. Go with kerosene!
How does a person contact you for a quote on working on a rifle
@@shawnalexander2866 IF YOU HAVE TO ASK ECT. :-)
Rust bluing is something I could watch time and again. Thank you Mark, for taking the time to show us the gunsmithing gnome's trade.
I set up to do this in my shop after watching your earlier videos on nthe process, and have saved about 2 dozen barrels since.
OUTSTANDING
Mark, I wish our high school / university lab had someone like you teaching us how to make... well, anything! It would have made me appieciate design tech so much more!
There is no telling how many wonderful firearms you have saved from the scrap yard thanks to these videos.
What happens to the barrel bore? How do you fix the innards?
Although it's not the first time I've seen this on Anvil, I'm always amazed at the process and especially the results. Thanks for posting all your videos.
May be a dumb question, but what do you do with the bore? Do you just clean it out like normal?
Just pull a brush and swab, like normal
Thank you!
Mark ASMR channel is the best on youtube
I wonder if Mark really gets ASMR... I guess we could call his generation pre-headphones?
@@slaughterround643 Oh I get it, like listening to any gal with an Aussie accent talk......
Your OSB plywood steam tank covers are living up to the material's reputation and falling apart from the wet! :D
Yeah, they are kinda skank, however, results don't lie......
@@marknovak8255 One thing about that tank that is worrying though is the exposed Kaowool, that stuff is very nasty if the fibers get into your lungs, you should think about covering it with something so that you aren't breathing those in whenever they get disturbed.
@@micahreid5553 20 years in a steel mill. Im not worrying anymore
OMB... brother I could have used you 25 years ago when I was a dealer. But heck you're schooling me and I'm killing it purchasing old rusty's and fix'n them up.. Buy low sell high... laughing all the way to the bank! Keep it up you're a jewel...
I like patina on my knives tools and brass, but blue steel is a different story.
I keep a bottle of cold blue handy and blue some of my tools. I have dabbled in rust bluing but some people don’t like it when I boil a hammer head in a pot on the stove.
7:38 Grobet 16.463 carding wheel
MAGIC! Like watching a beautiful butterfly emerge from it's chrysalis. Amazing work Mark!
The conversion process is so simple, a shame so many fine old firearms suffered from the attack of the 50 wire wheel. Once that's done, there ain't no going back.
I just actually made some ammo for the rifle I conserved With the help of your non-tutorial videos.
Guy at the shop sure did look at me funny when I said I was loading .43 Spanish.
Try .577/450. The looks the same............!
@@marknovak8255 perhaps someday I'll reach that level of obscurium and unobtanium. For now my next rabbit hole is .41 long Colt
Great video Mark Can’t wait to see my1885!
Mark,
I'm curious, is there oxide inside the barrels during the conversation process? If so, how do you remove it.
really small wire wheel ;)
(joking, if that wasn't obvious)
Actually, a regular bore brush works great.
And the process converts so little steel/rust that and change in the size of parts is negligible?
How do you clean the inside of the barrel. Wouldn't that get rusty after boiling too?
Rat with a toothbrush ;)
It's a shame they don't make wire brushes specifically for cleaning barrels.
...oh wait
@@wingracer1614 I want to know how HE would do it, not how you'd and/or I'd do it.
@@TheTarrMan thats is how
Just a bore brush and some oil.
Who knew the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy had entries on gunsmithing.
Ive got an ancient 97 Winchester in dire need of rust conversion. I just need to find a suitable tank. The thing is almost as long as a flintlock musket.
If you watch his older video on it, he shows how you can use a length of gutter as a boil tank with a camp burner
In addition to the gutter mentioned there's also an old Anvil video where a steam pipe is demonstrated, I think it was just a loosely capped PVC pipe on top of a pot of boiling water. As I recall it was mentioned that's the way it was done large scale anyway, as steam was readily available in old factories.
The full conservation video is ReUploading now. No bandwidth at the shop. Home telecom is crap, so I have to do the upload from home
. Gutter fab shown there
Thank you Mark. At least now I know the right questions ask, and some of the answers. So helpful when dealing with all the Experts out there.
I have sent many people from Reddit your way. Anytime I see someone post a rusty gun and say something like "I need to get the wire brush and clean this up"
I hope I have saved at least one original finish...
Great. The full conservation video is ReUploading now. No bandwidth at the shop. Home telecom is crap, so I have to do the upload from home
You know, I wonder, How did an E-div Chief, a 51-Chief, get so into mechanical stuff? I'm just waiting for you to start looking for a 480V 400 amp load center to plug your drill press into. Btw, I like how you fixed your starter on that salvaged lathe. Nice save. -Dave
The control box was burned out. Reverse engineered the controls and interlocking. It's all up under the bench. Not bad for the 50 bucks I gave for it, eh? I went to the recruiter 2 weeks after Reagan announced the 600 ship Navy, to be a gunners mate. Got a 99 on the ASVAB, they made me an EM Nuke. My mom still thinks I was a piano player in a French whorehouse. I don't want to let her down, so shhhhhhhhhh.........
@@marknovak8255 One of the things that a lot of the New improved Navy doesn't understand was the transitional phase between classes, 37's and 88's, that time period was especially hard on people in the divisions you had a hand in. It isn't like it is today. Just like 40's and the 26's. It took some flexible people to get that underway.
Hi! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here! Your videos are amazing.
Could you tell with kind of "metal wheel" you use to remove rust without attacking the original bluing ? A link or a reference so I can buy the same type on the internet ?
Thank you!
I got a sweet sixteen im gonna duracoat it had real bad chemical damage all the engravings were removed to smooth the pitting by the previous owner so no collectors value got an almost complete gun for 150$ it aint pretty but it'll be a nice all weather quail gun when im done and I'll be able to hunt with an A5 but wont have to take my nice ones out in 90% humidity
Would you do rust conversion on a gun that's oil blacked? Also, curious of marks opinions of browning firearms lol.
Great video Mark excellent work.
If the barrrels were originally parkerized instead of blued, would you do the de-rusting process any differently?
Boiling converts the current rusting...and Parkerizing is a layer of phosphate...so boil, card, then re-parker....
I have been converted!
My guns can testify!
My friend bought a 93 Marlin that had been a closet queen for 80 plus years back east .Nice bore, nice wood outside plum brown receiver still showed case colors. I begged him to let me do the conservation to it with no avail. Rifles like that one are rare in Montana. Local Sourced guns of that vintage look like they rode in the back of the wagon with dog and barbwire and the put in the barn rafters till grandson found graps old cowboy gun and ran a few old corrosive shells threw it before someone found out about it. Then when the new owners of the ranch from California were tearing down the old barn found it and took it to the gun show and trying to sell it $5000 because it has character and nice patina.
Hate to see that happen, but they do own it, so another one bites the dust.....
Thank you. Was rust as bad on inside?
Your videos are awesome. Thank you!
I confess that I inherited 3 shotguns 100+ years old and an 18th Century Brown Bess musket, none of which have been cared for properly. Oh and an 1871 Remington Rolling Block that’s in just awful condition. NO - I am not going to start on the Brown Bess. There are a couple of nasty .22 rifles that should be good test subjects.
While I may trust Mark to use his skill and discretion with a wire wheel, I do not trust *myself*!! So when I have a similar project, I use a wad of *copper wool* soaked in ATF to gently persuade the rust blemishes to fade away. I use long, lengthwise strokes wherever possible. It does take an incredibly long time, but I'm not paid by the hour, like Mark. And with extremely tough rust, I might resort to 0000 steel wool and ATF. I have successfully used this method on several rifles, and on a couple, even blue touchup was unnecessary! Thanks, Mark!
The wheel used here is a .0025" carding wheel, NOT a wire wheel. That's why I stuck my finger in the card while it was running, and showed the part number and where to get one if you wanted to use power.
Mark, what rpm do you run that carding wheel?
@@briankli 4 pole motor, 1800rpm ish. I was given that long shaft Baldor buffer a long time ago by a former smith, but you don't need anything near that complex
@@marknovak8255 Thanks, mark! (I'm nervous about using power, but that's just me...) Do you ever use ATF or other oils to help carry away the rust? great video!!
@@marknovak8255 Thank you! I would love to have a buffer setup like yours but I think I'll just have to make do with the carding wheel attached to my drill press. Thanks again and thanks for the passing of knowledge! It is greatly appreciated!
Your videos are great, I'm going to share them with my dad (a former Navy Machinist Mate and bubblehead). A quick question about the boiling/conservation: are you using regular tap water? I've seen other videos and web-pages that say use distilled water only. I'd guess that having as few additional minerals and chemicals (copper, chlorine, fluoride, etc...) in the mix to interfere with the rust reaction is best. But in your experience, does it make a difference?
Tap water is fine for conversion of surface rust. Bluing a naked piece of polished steel is where the expensive distilled water works better.
@@marknovak8255 You sir, are the voice of wisdom!
Thanks so much for the content Mark, really appreciate your videos!
Mark how many times can it be boiled and carted . Will damage accur if its repeated over and over ?
I've never had to do one more than 4 times. No damage noted in that experience, just my observation
@@marknovak8255 thank you and man I enjoy the hell out of the videos you make absolutely brilliant.
i have another question....where did you get the reducers or arbors for your buffer shaft to get it down to the carding wheel size...or did you make them yourself?????
Thank you for the conversion tingles.
This damnedable toilet flange for the ss pot still! Menards stopped carrying 'odd' sizes of PVC fittings, so still trying to source that.
Don't overthink it man. Just scab something together that works and make steam
@@marknovak8255 Steam tube build short video! Haha, I hate to need my hand held, and have thought about just using a 4" closet flange and just putting long bolts through to hold the 6" tube on, but thinking water will run down the inside of tube, leak out of the flange onto the pot lid, and then up over the edges of the lid onto my burner.
If not that, thought about a 4" flange with a $20 4" to 6" reducing/increase fitting, and just allowing it to neck down at the base. Not ideal either though.
Mark I have a question. Will a wool gun sock absorb the moisture on the barrel?
Sir I’m working on a Sauer & Sohn 12ga for a customer of mine. Having trouble getting the floor plate screw out of the bottom for disassembly to clean. Do you have any recommendations? I’ve tried repeated applications of Kroil and some heat already. Thanks for your time. Enjoy your channel
Quick question, my krag sporter I bought took 4 1/2 hours to clean and it started like the Beretta barrels and I got it cleaned pretty good. it looks like the rear of the action is sort of blued but the barrel is just white, with many black spots of patina, I still wipe it down from time to time and it still comes off silver black after I wipe the barrel. Is that just the left over bluing, I did have to do use ultra fine steel wool and hoppes due to not being able to boil the barrel and action
You make it look so easy, easier then getting the tubes sent 800km to the nearest gunsmith to do just that.
Just this past weekend I bought 6 guns from an estate. 3 were SxS percussion shotguns, one a Wesley Richards. The passed collector lived right on the bay (salt water) and didn't take care of his valuable firearms. The SXS shotguns have rusty bores, my question is do I go straight into the tank? Or do I try to get some of the loose mung out first? After conversion I guess use the oil free 4-O steel wool on a pistol drill. Great videos Mark!
QUESTION: I was given a small set of carding wheels that are a variety of stiffness but are a nylon or other polymer. I have bought an old Coast to Coast 20ga pump that was mostly in the garage on the farm.
Can or should I use the new wheels. I'm curious of how it will turn out. A lot of mung but blue underneath.
Your wheels will work, probably. I have no experience with them, I surmise the worst that will happen is a lack of effectiveness, but no harm......
@@marknovak8255 Thank you for the answer. I am a kinda talented amateur, and I like to acquire skills. You will never see my attempt at checkering. Or 2nd 3rd, 50th.
But this I can do.
Loved watching this video, I have an regular old Mossberg shotgun that needs rest removal and stock repair. I have to ask how much your labor charge is...... so it's probally too much 😅😂😅😂
What about inside the barrels?
Just pull a brush and swab, like normal
@@marknovak8255 At risk of sounding like an idiot, in the case of a shotgun wouldnt firing a shell or three of small birdshot tend to clean scuzz out of the barrel?
@@Danglebarry62 Scuzz, rust, cosmoline, wads, plastic.....are all bore obstructions. All of which must not be present in order to safely fire a round. Just my opinion
@@marknovak8255 The barrels have been boiled out, you've had your hands on them, you've looked down them 100x, what obstruction do you anticipate there to be from surface rust when the projectile diameter is maybe 1/10 that of the bore? In the case of a rifled barrel or a slug? Perhaps. Loose shot? Zero chance.
Anything done to protect the bore when bluing and etc?
When boiling the barrels & then carding , what do you do about the inside of the barrels , how do you clean them after boiling . Do you use a brass brush to card the sling swivels? Would this be the best way to go on some milsurp rifles that I have ?
You do not apply the rust bluing solution to the inside of the barrels so there is no need to do any thing to the inside of the barrels. After boiling you just oil the inside of the barrels. (In normal rust bluing.)
If you need to remove rust from inside the barrels it can be done with a brass brush (possibly wrapped in fine steel wool).
@@wadekirby8575 Exactly but if more applications and boiling needed I wouldn't oil the bores yet, just dry out with a bore rod and shop roll otherwise the oil will contaminate the water. Polish bores an oil when finished.
mark spreading the word of conversion therapy!
Oh no :-D
Mark, towards the end of the video you mention that one set of barrels needed to be converted at least 3-4 more times. Just curious if you meant straight boil for 3-4 times then card at the end, or boil and card, repeat 3-4 times
3 to 4 complete cycles.....boil,card,evaluate,repeat
@@marknovak8255 Understood. Currently converting my own set of barrels and have some stubborn rust spots similar to those in this video
@@inadequatefoodstuffs Consider a brass scraper (old cartridge) to take off the converted surface and re expose the red rust between passes
@@marknovak8255 Okay, I'll give it a try. I really appreciate the feedback. Your videos have been a big help for this project.
12:21'
What is the tool being used to scrape near the muzzle? Bamboo? Brass? This is really good stuff.
Looks to me like a crimped 50 cal brass case
Will this conservation process work on a hot dipped blue finish? Will it look right? I've got a 1960s Ithaca 37 that kinda looks like that old 1887 in a few places. Like brown oil soaked rust. Other less handled places still have the original finish. It shoots great and I wanna keep it going. I'm afraid if I boil it out and card it it'll look splotchy, like rust blued in some spots and hot dipped in others.
Sorry for the delay, just saw this. Hot dip is tricky, sometime you can, sometimes not. Convert first, and take a look. You may be surprised. If not, strip it down and start fresh.
@@marknovak8255 I might try to start fresh on a low value pawn shop scatter gun first. This was my grandfather's shotgun, and if I louse it up my mother will surely cause harm to me. I just want to stop it before the pitting goes from barely visible to letting light in. I actually considered waiting until she dies so I wouldn't have to admit to her if i screwed it up.
@@chrisblakey9116 remember that soldered double barrel shotguns wont like to be dipped in hot bluing solution ;)
@@rgbgamingfridge The gun I'm working on is a pump action. I don't think there's a soldered joint on it. I'm by no means an expert at anything, but I'm pretty sure i wouldn't have dropped an old set of tubes in hot salts, already knowing that ribs are soldered on. I question the common sense of that guy. You know, from up here on my high horse.
And I'm planning to boil it in water not hot dip it. I'm doing this in my garage. I'm not sure im even set up to get that amount of bluing solution that hot. It's like 350f or something. My little Coleman white gas stove is gonna get a workout with that.
With boiling do you have to worry about the solder between the barrel?
Solder starts to melt around 350ish. Water boils at 212, so no worries
Was the barrel corked or something? Do you care the inside of the barrel, assuming it’s rusted?
This process is just as effective on active rust inside the barrel.
So I guess you just run a brush through the barrel after converting to remove the surface rust?
I suppose or if the inside is not effected, cork the barrel
Thank You for sharing this with all of us !
Moar, MOOOAAAAARRRRR!!!!!! I love this kind of stuff!!!!
Is there any concerns with using the boiling water conversion on twist steel barrels? I have a 1907 Parker 12 bore PH Model that are marked Twist that I would like to conserve. Appreciate any thoughts.
? l must have missed the final look job here...?
“Convert and save ‘em!” Amen.
lol I don’t have to worry about rust here in Las Vegas where we have 3% humidity in the summer
That's a great lesson. Thanks.
i looked in your other videos but only found your snippet about building a conversion tank, did you do a full on video on your conversion process? Have you looked at any of the water based chemical rust removers on the market?
We haven't moved all of the older videos over to this page yet. Uploading the full conservation video now, standby........But it was dropped from its former playlist on the other site.
@@marknovak8255 Thank you Sir
I once heard you say to buff at 600 rpm how do you get your buffer to run so slow ? I'm looking at some and their running somewhere around 3400 rpm
I love seeing that nasty, rusted surface turned into blued gold.
Thats neat; I've seen some guns that could have used that level of expertise instead of a stiff wire wheel.
Are you kidding me ? This wheel causes cancer . You sir are living very dangerously . 😂 your videos are amazing and I enjoy them all a great deal . Carry on
Hell don't u know the fresh mountain air causes cancer in the State of California ! The freaking brains r fried out there ! I think all the common sense has been bred out of humanity out there !
Yeah, the dye and ink used on the warning label they're required to put on is toxic!
Great to see some old side by sides in your videos.. Is that JP Sauer set a laminated barrel? Do you worry about any gaps in the rib that would cause rust to build up under it between the barrels after boiling?
Big fan! Keep up the great work Mark!
Does anyone know what bench grinder/buffer is being used with the carding wheel??
In reference to any conversion under the barrel ribs. Will oil/kerosene soaking stop the remaining oxidation not able to be carted odd from developing?
I've wondered this too regarding doubles.
Why can’t we hot dip barrels? I thought that’s how you get the best blue?
If I had to guess it would be becausebit would mess with the temper of the metal since they are blued at ~400°c if I remember the luger blueing video correctly.
If I had to guess, I would say the solder would melt.
Doubles are usually soldered together with a lower temperature solder. The temps needed to hot blue would loosen the solder and mess up the regulation.
The solder holding the ribs on will soften and melt. What a mess
@@daveb7397 this is the right answer,valid for most doubles but not all. Many Belgian doubles are hard soldered and can take hot blueing without coming loose, but you'd better be sure before dipping into that hot salt tank!
Fantastic! How could I get ahold of you to send in a piece of equipment ?
Hahaha good luck
Hi, I have watched several of your vids... very interesting.... and I know this an older one... but I have a question..... I have a 20 gauge double shotgun... steel barrels... but they have a few small dents in them... now my question is of course... Can these dent be taken out or at least partly??? Thanks
th-cam.com/video/FFUXJRcqnnA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/DJyegZQ8F50/w-d-xo.html
These are videos from MidwayUSA's channel, hopefully this helps
Please get rid of that horrible noise at the beginning and the end.
Good work, Mr. Novak, keep it coming.
Can this process be used for a parkerized finish?
What are you boiling it in to convert the rust?
Just water, really. It's called rust bluing. You convert the unstable red iron oxide (Fe2O3) to stable black iron oxide (Fe3O4) by essentially getting the oxygen in the water to "donate" to the rust layer. It's really an amazing finish for firearms and tools.
Distilled/Deionosed water
Plain water is used most of the time.
Thor, probably.
Would I do this process for my M1 Garand? It is parkerized I believe, but not sure. No videos on M1’s.....
He told me I could, but I would LOVE for him to do that video. I have a CMP M1 that’s in nice shape but definitely needs this. Hey I’d volunteer my M1 too!
Well that was satisfying!
Outstanding sir
Thank you Mark! Spread the gospel yall!
Awesome video sir thoroughly enjoyed it.
How do you clean/ remove rust from a case hardened steel surface?
VERY carefully. The colors will come off unless hand carded with 0000 steel wool. Be Gentle.
@ 3:55 Soup's on!!!
Hey mark, have any tips to clean a smoke damaged inland m1 carbine stock? Bought this gun from a shop that caught fire for a whole $30 luckily most guns were ok besides rust(from the obvious)and smoke damage..just need a product reccomendation, hopefully something i dont need to order. i was thinking murphys oil soap on a rag.
When I first saw the double barrels I thought "oh goody we'll see the Gunsmith solder some loose ribs". Aw waaa, another bluing video. ;-) interesting none the less.
Soldering video is up. Did you like it? th-cam.com/video/ygC6mrpVz74/w-d-xo.html
@@marknovak8255 Great video. I watched a gunsmith in my area do it. There was a lot more smoke when he did it than you. I know it's a lot of work and if you do it wrong you can end up doing the whole thing over. Thanks for posting and I hope people don't hot blue their shotguns.
I've watched the process of wrestling on TH-cam just watching you do it cuz you're more interesting and talk a lot better
Professional wrestling is fake!
are you submerging those parts in boiling water or steaming them?
Boil, ho9wever steam is just as effective
@@marknovak8255 Okay awesome.
Two quick questions about your carding wheel, what rpm do you run it at and have you used the brass wheel instead of steel?
I'd think the brass would be more gentle but I wonder if it's too soft that it may transfer brass to the parts and/or it might not be aggressive enough to remove the oxide.
@@JPMotorhead1993 1750 rpm (4 pole motor) No experience with a brass wheel, so no opinion either way.
@@JPMotorhead1993 Self-employed machinist and amateur gunsmith here. In my experience , brass wire wheels can impart a yellowish tint to the metal depending on the surface finish and the hardness of the brass wire. Obviously , you would want to test it on some scrap first. I think you may find that the brass will be too soft to be effective on anything but the finest of rust. But it's worth experimenting. Good luck with your projects .
@@ifitsfreeitsforme1852 second what you said, brass will definitely transfer and leave a yellowish hue on the metal
I still dont know what the conversion was
Same as for rust bluing. Ferric oxide (red rust), converted to ferro ferric oxide (black rust, or "bluing")
@@marknovak8255 ahha interesting
Very good.
I know in one of his videos he tells us what wheel he uses. But I cant remember, so Mr Novak would you please answer that again?
7:34 I show this
How do you do the bore?
Use a standard bore brush, then oil with the outside at the same time
Converted rust in the bore is actually not a bad thing, its smoother I think.
@@marknovak8255 Thank you.
Good info.
Sorry for asking but this is the new anvil episode anvil 085?
85 will be awhile, its in production but that will take some time. For now, we will put out new stuff periodically, but no hour fifteen monsters
@@marknovak8255 thank you Mr Novak
i like the teapot besides the boiling water tank, makes me wonder......
Followed your process with great interest, however in none of the clips I've found do you mention how you clean up the bore after conversion boiling. Bronze brush on a rod?
I need a boiling tank like that!
What is the rpm of your wheel?
1750 he said on another comment
What type of carding wheels do you use?
Never mind!🤣
thank you
Thank you, Sir!