This brings back a lot of memories for me, especially because I can remember the grief I got from my grandfather and uncle if I left anything when turning a corner. My grandfather showed me how to do it and expected me to do it the same way, without having to go back and clean up the corners and leave a nice smooth cut.
This is back to the future for me Brock. My Dad and I made hay that was all cut with a sickle bar mower until 1969. That year he purchased a Heston 310 haybine (look that one up on the net!). This time of year you may be fine with a sickle bar. Their biggest drawback IMO is on early season hay because they don’t crush/crimp the stems of the hay in any way. It will take longer to dry early season hay. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Hey Brock, if you make your first round clockwise it gives you a chance to spot any hazards and essentially measures the proper distance from fences, trees... Really enjoy your videos.
As a farm boy in the 70’s would mow hay with a WD Allis chalmers sickle bar was in front of right rear tire , and hay crimped was behind on draw bar & pto.
I have an Enorossi sickle bar mower. It makes a beautiful cut and mows as fast as I can drive on the field. The only problem I have with it is that it lays the grass down so neatly and flat that the tedder can have a hard time picking some of it up. It is super fast and easy to work with, much easier than a slow, bulky haybine or discbine. Also, it has a very small footprint for storage when not in use. They are significantly cheaper than any other hay cutter. I considered a drum mower but they really cut short. With the sickle bar, i can leave the grass a bit longer and it seems to regrow faster thanks to the very clean cut.
I've operated, for 20 yrs, a Hesston 6450 Windrower. Worked ok but threw everything into a windrow. Took too many days to dry the grass Hay. Made the switch to an Enorossi BFS 270H, a 9' Sickle Bar that has a good cutting action where the Blade Bar and Guard Bar both move, but in opposite direction. It's best with a 30-50HP tractor (I run a Kioti RX7320). Rated for 540 PTO rpm but states/recommends engaging the PTO speed between 400 - 450 rpm. I, on the other hand, engage the PTO at low rpm, saves on the shock, then raise to the 450 rpm. Found keeping the tractor speed fast (6-10mph) works better. Grass is much different than Alfalfa. Dries much better when laid down (1-2 days). I use a 18' V-rack once dry. BUT, it's all about time. A 12' self propelled conditioning Windrower vs 9' Sickle Bar ... 3' difference makes cutting time either GOOD or BAD.
Disc mower is a major upgrade over a sickle bar. Granted I’ve only used an old sickle bar mower. First cut of the year all you managed was fighting the mower. Disc mowers you can move a lot faster. Waiting to get ahold of a discbine which is top of the line for mowing hay
With disc mowers or sickle mowers, make a few laps, going to the right and then turn around and do it around your fence rows and it will keep from leaving Tire marks where it smashed the grass
That outside swath board flips that outside hay in, as you said. The reason is because as you cut, the cutter head has a slide under it that runs on the ground just to the outside of the swath you are cutting. If that swathboard hadn’t flipped the hay out of the way, the slide (or shoe) under the cutter would push up all that loose hay and make a large wad. Our dealership sold and serviced the Enrossi sickle mowers, which appears very similar, if not the same as the Maschio, and I have a used “Rossii sitting here right now. I have used it in the folded up position and trimmed tree branches with it. Got it primarily to trim under trees, on ditchbanks, etc. The drawbar of the European sickle mowers is: 1) part availability - the local farm store will not have any cutter sections or anything for it, 2) the parts are expensive compared to the like a New Holland 451 sickle mower. When the 451 sickle was $100, the Rossi sickle was $400; same with sickle sections, 3) the cutter head didn’t seem as durable as it should be, I had several customers needing complete rebuilds after something internally “let go”, (which could be a result of ignoring that suggestion of greasing every 2 hours, which was news to me). In my hay cutting days, I have used anywhere from a 12ft self-propelled Massey swather conditioner, to various mower conditioners, and the sickle bar mower. My old neighbor who has cut hay all his life with every variety of mower says he likes to use the sickle mower because it is so satisfying to watch the hay fall behind the sickle.
I grew up surrounded by hay fields, it was all cut with sickle bar mowers. My dad's old JD sickle bar is still standing up back in the woods, he bought it used in the 70's, it was probably made in the sixties.
I bought an old sickle bar for $100. I probably put another $100 into it. I cut alfalfa with it, and it works great. beats the crop less than a disc mower I think. Clearner cut as well, which is a big deal with Alfalfa.
I mowed for a few years with a sickle bar mower before switching to a drum mower. I found the drum mower is a lot less maintenance and never clogs but the sickle mower did make a nice even cut and almost eliminated the need for a tedder because it lays the hay down flat and wide, but you had to be careful about going over already mowed hay as that could cause a clog. The drum mower windrows the hay and you almost have to ted the hay to get it to dry even, which means more fuel and cost to go over your field with a tedder, but overall i still like the drum mower better for the simplicity, again very little maintenance and blade changes are cheap and quick, sickle bar takes some time and experience to change knife sections, especially when they are riveted in.
I've only used a sickle bar mower until I switched to a self propelled swather. Always worked best for me but I preferred my New Holland swatter with the wide conditioner.
I love these videos on small hay operations, keep them coming! Question on the sickle bar mower - can you set it's height easily, like if you wanted to cut around your pond, or over an embankment at an angle lower than level with flat ground?
We used to cut with a sickle mower, that's all there was, terrible if your crop was laying down or tough. In good conditions it was OK. Best thing out when we changed to a disc mower, cut anything, doesn't cut as clean but no hang ups or changing cutters regularly. We used to cut about 150 acres the disc mower was much quicker.
The issue with using a sickle bar for cutting hay, you're not crimping the stalks(alfalfa), which is crucial to the drying process...Consider getting a trailing crimper so that you can crimp the stalks as you're laying down the cut hay... I have wanted a 3-point sickle bar for the longest time, the #1 issue for me is cost, they ARE expensive...
At what degree with the bar mow? I have an old MF 41 and it will mow straight up and probably at 30° past horizontal and do it does really well on pond levees. I don't do hay. All I do is mow around my pond and keep the ditch banks looking clean. Since I don't gather the cut grass for hay the next time I mow it piles up on the sickle bar and I have to get off and clean it. A hydraulic operated blade will make cutting a lot easier for me. But I want to know how far down it will cut before I sink the money into one.
I mowed with most of things I guess, self propelled, like krone and also swather, John deere and Claas mowers, disc bines etc, and the one thing that I always comes back to is how much I cant stand using a sickle bar mower other than doing road sides and ditches, they are perfect for that But they are a true and tested mechanical thing, and not much that can brake on them either, so for a smaller farm its a good tool if you buy it used, but a new one for this price, I would never buy it new, I would suggest a disc bine without conditioner to get it down to work with smaller tractors like yours, they make a better job in general when it comes to cut quality But the costs with a disc bine is much higher if you hit something and destroy the gearbox etc, so its not for everybody But I am spoiled, haha, and I have ocd for leaving standing grass and tufts after my mowing, I know I am different in that way, but this IS a good machine, seen many use them on youtube and praise them, and they do work nicely without doubt
This is not like the American made sickle mower most people are used to. The guards reciprocates over the cutter blades, Gopher mounds and fire ant mounts are not much of a problem when it's dry.
Right, but this tractor has auto throttle so when you increase speed, it increases the throttle. That is unless you are in high gear and I don’t love going in high gear but Hydro pedal halfway down. Also, Tractor manufacturers tell you that you should not be running your tractor for long periods of time at lower RPMs. It’s hard on the regen system. I never meant to imply that I was driving slower. But the auto throttle will give you two choices that I don’t love unless you disconnect the auto throttle.
This brings back a lot of memories for me, especially because I can remember the grief I got from my grandfather and uncle if I left anything when turning a corner. My grandfather showed me how to do it and expected me to do it the same way, without having to go back and clean up the corners and leave a nice smooth cut.
This is back to the future for me Brock. My Dad and I made hay that was all cut with a sickle bar mower until 1969. That year he purchased a Heston 310 haybine (look that one up on the net!). This time of year you may be fine with a sickle bar. Their biggest drawback IMO is on early season hay because they don’t crush/crimp the stems of the hay in any way. It will take longer to dry early season hay. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Hey Brock, if you make your first round clockwise it gives you a chance to spot any hazards and essentially measures the proper distance from fences, trees... Really enjoy your videos.
As a farm boy in the 70’s would mow hay with a WD Allis chalmers sickle bar was in front of right rear tire , and hay crimped was behind on draw bar & pto.
I have an Enorossi sickle bar mower. It makes a beautiful cut and mows as fast as I can drive on the field. The only problem I have with it is that it lays the grass down so neatly and flat that the tedder can have a hard time picking some of it up. It is super fast and easy to work with, much easier than a slow, bulky haybine or discbine. Also, it has a very small footprint for storage when not in use. They are significantly cheaper than any other hay cutter. I considered a drum mower but they really cut short. With the sickle bar, i can leave the grass a bit longer and it seems to regrow faster thanks to the very clean cut.
I've operated, for 20 yrs, a Hesston 6450 Windrower. Worked ok but threw everything into a windrow. Took too many days to dry the grass Hay. Made the switch to an Enorossi BFS 270H, a 9' Sickle Bar that has a good cutting action where the Blade Bar and Guard Bar both move, but in opposite direction. It's best with a 30-50HP tractor (I run a Kioti RX7320). Rated for 540 PTO rpm but states/recommends engaging the PTO speed between 400 - 450 rpm. I, on the other hand, engage the PTO at low rpm, saves on the shock, then raise to the 450 rpm. Found keeping the tractor speed fast (6-10mph) works better. Grass is much different than Alfalfa. Dries much better when laid down (1-2 days). I use a 18' V-rack once dry. BUT, it's all about time. A 12' self propelled conditioning Windrower vs 9' Sickle Bar ... 3' difference makes cutting time either GOOD or BAD.
Disc mower is a major upgrade over a sickle bar. Granted I’ve only used an old sickle bar mower. First cut of the year all you managed was fighting the mower. Disc mowers you can move a lot faster. Waiting to get ahold of a discbine which is top of the line for mowing hay
With disc mowers or sickle mowers, make a few laps, going to the right and then turn around and do it around your fence rows and it will keep from leaving Tire marks where it smashed the grass
That outside swath board flips that outside hay in, as you said. The reason is because as you cut, the cutter head has a slide under it that runs on the ground just to the outside of the swath you are cutting. If that swathboard hadn’t flipped the hay out of the way, the slide (or shoe) under the cutter would push up all that loose hay and make a large wad. Our dealership sold and serviced the Enrossi sickle mowers, which appears very similar, if not the same as the Maschio, and I have a used “Rossii sitting here right now. I have used it in the folded up position and trimmed tree branches with it. Got it primarily to trim under trees, on ditchbanks, etc. The drawbar of the European sickle mowers is: 1) part availability - the local farm store will not have any cutter sections or anything for it, 2) the parts are expensive compared to the like a New Holland 451 sickle mower. When the 451 sickle was $100, the Rossi sickle was $400; same with sickle sections, 3) the cutter head didn’t seem as durable as it should be, I had several customers needing complete rebuilds after something internally “let go”, (which could be a result of ignoring that suggestion of greasing every 2 hours, which was news to me). In my hay cutting days, I have used anywhere from a 12ft self-propelled Massey swather conditioner, to various mower conditioners, and the sickle bar mower. My old neighbor who has cut hay all his life with every variety of mower says he likes to use the sickle mower because it is so satisfying to watch the hay fall behind the sickle.
I grew up surrounded by hay fields, it was all cut with sickle bar mowers. My dad's old JD sickle bar is still standing up back in the woods, he bought it used in the 70's, it was probably made in the sixties.
Nice sickle bar mower Brock. The hydraulic lift is a great option. Enjoyed your video Brock. Thanks
lol I was raised in western South Dakota us and our neighbors put up 1000 acres of hay or more on a 6’ to 8’ sickle bar on a fordson and a dump rake
I bought an old sickle bar for $100. I probably put another $100 into it. I cut alfalfa with it, and it works great. beats the crop less than a disc mower I think. Clearner cut as well, which is a big deal with Alfalfa.
I mowed for a few years with a sickle bar mower before switching to a drum mower. I found the drum mower is a lot less maintenance and never clogs but the sickle mower did make a nice even cut and almost eliminated the need for a tedder because it lays the hay down flat and wide, but you had to be careful about going over already mowed hay as that could cause a clog. The drum mower windrows the hay and you almost have to ted the hay to get it to dry even, which means more fuel and cost to go over your field with a tedder, but overall i still like the drum mower better for the simplicity, again very little maintenance and blade changes are cheap and quick, sickle bar takes some time and experience to change knife sections, especially when they are riveted in.
I've only used a sickle bar mower until I switched to a self propelled swather. Always worked best for me but I preferred my New Holland swatter with the wide conditioner.
I love these videos on small hay operations, keep them coming! Question on the sickle bar mower - can you set it's height easily, like if you wanted to cut around your pond, or over an embankment at an angle lower than level with flat ground?
Morning Farmer Brock
tractor time with did a review of that mower over a year ago, but also that sickle is double action mower
Nice sickle bar ,Brock .
We used to cut with a sickle mower, that's all there was, terrible if your crop was laying down or tough. In good conditions it was OK. Best thing out when we changed to a disc mower, cut anything, doesn't cut as clean but no hang ups or changing cutters regularly. We used to cut about 150 acres the disc mower was much quicker.
You can't go wrong with a disc mower. Low maintenance and easy to sharpen. Will take a lot of sharpening before replacing.
The issue with using a sickle bar for cutting hay, you're not crimping the stalks(alfalfa), which is crucial to the drying process...Consider getting a trailing crimper so that you can crimp the stalks as you're laying down the cut hay...
I have wanted a 3-point sickle bar for the longest time, the #1 issue for me is cost, they ARE expensive...
Great video😊
At what degree with the bar mow? I have an old MF 41 and it will mow straight up and probably at 30° past horizontal and do it does really well on pond levees. I don't do hay. All I do is mow around my pond and keep the ditch banks looking clean. Since I don't gather the cut grass for hay the next time I mow it piles up on the sickle bar and I have to get off and clean it. A hydraulic operated blade will make cutting a lot easier for me. But I want to know how far down it will cut before I sink the money into one.
I mowed with most of things I guess, self propelled, like krone and also swather, John deere and Claas mowers, disc bines etc, and the one thing that I always comes back to is how much I cant stand using a sickle bar mower other than doing road sides and ditches, they are perfect for that
But they are a true and tested mechanical thing, and not much that can brake on them either, so for a smaller farm its a good tool if you buy it used, but a new one for this price, I would never buy it new, I would suggest a disc bine without conditioner to get it down to work with smaller tractors like yours, they make a better job in general when it comes to cut quality
But the costs with a disc bine is much higher if you hit something and destroy the gearbox etc, so its not for everybody
But I am spoiled, haha, and I have ocd for leaving standing grass and tufts after my mowing, I know I am different in that way, but this IS a good machine, seen many use them on youtube and praise them, and they do work nicely without doubt
most people do the back swath at end of field mow
This is not like the American made sickle mower most people are used to. The guards reciprocates over the cutter blades, Gopher mounds and fire ant mounts are not much of a problem when it's dry.
Disc mower is the way to go. Have cut hay with both and disc mower is way better.
Phil wasn't saying go slower because of the rpm....go the same speed...just with less rpm...
Right, but this tractor has auto throttle so when you increase speed, it increases the throttle. That is unless you are in high gear and I don’t love going in high gear but Hydro pedal halfway down.
Also, Tractor manufacturers tell you that you should not be running your tractor for long periods of time at lower RPMs. It’s hard on the regen system.
I never meant to imply that I was driving slower. But the auto throttle will give you two choices that I don’t love unless you disconnect the auto throttle.
Better get a 2nd cutter bar thay suck just so
I have a lot different context but everyday I will take a disc mower over any sickle machine.
Great job as always Brock! Been on carnivore since Sept. with great results
Brock your not going to Crimp the Hay?? 🤔
Doesn't really matter. Mostly sage grass. Not good hay anyways.
@@jakrn01 True.
the difference is you can go faster with a disk you need more hp the sickle bar takes less and lot cheaper
You seem to have missed cutting some grass
If you’re talking about the corners? I ground off my corners and then come back through after I’m done and cut them.
Finger bar mowers are gone mate i wouldnt waste money on 1 new
Brother in law has both the bar mower does a better job his bar is 9 ft and the drum mower is 5 ft so less time mowing