I bought one of these in '82. When I first saw it on the rack, I knew immediately that I wanted it. It became mine for $125 plus the awful Washington sales tax. It was built in "99 and appeared to have been reconditioned and had an unvarnished maple wood stock. I sprayed it with Verathane without dismounting the stock from the rest of the rifle. It was a crude expedient, but it has served well to this very day. I took it deer hunting in the Missouri Breaks of old Montana in '85 during a doe-only season. Ranges were usually short down in the bottoms, so I did not worry very much about the very high battle sight zero. I shot and downed a big doe and then shot it again for a quick kill. The next day was more interesting. From my camp, I spotted a coyote far down the Missouri and on the other side. I guessed the range to be about 350 or so yards. I was reluctant to expend an expensive Federal 175 factory load on such a distant and difficult target, but I decided to try it anyway. The wind was still, and the light was good. The varmint was a tiny grey dot like a grain of sand over the barleycorn front sight. When the tip got near, the target seemed to merge with it so that I could not tell where the sight ended and the varmint began. When I touched it off, the sight tip was just on the bottom of the target. Just after the rifle bucked and roared, I saw a splash just below where the coyote had been. It looked like the kind of splash that comes from a dead coyote falling from above rather than from a bullet hitting the water. I left the rifle and fetched my binoculars. Then I saw the varmint floating down the river. It took the better part of an hour to chase it down with the canoe and then mostly line the boat back to camp against the current. The coyote was hit through the lungs. The bullet did not seem to expand. I had the hide preserved as a trophy. After that memorable experience, I decided that it would be worth it to have a second-hand Williams peep sight mounted on the receiver along with a higher barleycorn surrounded by a circular guard. The cost was almost as much as the cost of the rifle. Now with the rear sight adjusted as low as it can go, I still cannot put the apex of the front sight in the middle of the circle. I have to put the bottom of the pyramid on the bottom of the circle and aim about two inches low to hit right on at a hundred yards. The zero seems to be about the same at two hundred yards., At three hundred, the drop is nearly a foot below point of aim. The rifle has a one in seven twist and is designed originally for 173-grain round nose bullets. One hundred seventy five works well. So also does every other kind that I have tried. My favourite hand load is a 175 round nose or spritzer bullet over 45 grains of IMR 4831. The slow powder provides a long pressure curve that is easy on the old Toledo steel. The long barrel makes maximum use of the slow powder and long pressure curve. Just recently I purchased some new ELD bullets that are 175 grains and are boat-tailed. They look to be longer than a witch's dream. I am looking forward to trying them out on the range.There is one odd thing about this rifle and, as I am told, others like it. That is excess head space. The story is that such was by design because there was wide tolerances in cartridges during the 19th century. Of course it was better to have some excess rather than to have a cartridge not feed in the heat of battle. In all the commercial factory loads that I ever fired in the rifle, all backed the primers halfway out. Then they would fall out the rest of the way in my pocket. I resize cases to the minimum, and that phenomenon does not occur with my hand loads.
Hello there! I also have the exact same rifle bought in Holland EU, only mine is disabled ( barrel and bolt) are welded sorry to say...also 1923....bought it for 200 euros...very nise rifle, shame mine isnt working....any tips how to make it work again?
Buy a new barrel, bolt and receiver. To deactivate, either cement is placed in the barrel or the barrel is cut open and the bolt is cut (the first inch)
Good price. Nice looking rifle and pretty much the same rifle with only a few minor alterations that was used in the Spanish American War. I have one of the original 325,000 built of which 285,000 were made by German firms and 40,000 by the Belgians and these guns were issued in a hurry to the Spanish Colonial forces in the Philipines and Cuba due to the looming insurrections that were festering in the mid-1890's. The Spanish arsenal at Oviedo had started making them but in 1896 but those guns remained in Spain. Where the 93 Mausers would see action would be the bloody Spanish Civil War. Collectors tend to trend to the German made ones (for the Spanish) due to their history, but the Spanish made rifles are great for shooting and are find for living history and reenacting Spanish American War. A chilean 1895 stock also from German production is available to replace any sporterized stock and is pretty much identical to the 93 stock....the price of the stock and related hardware will be about 200 bucks so unless you have gotten into a Spanish made one sporterized very cheap it might not be that dollar wise to restock although the German made ones, even with the Spanish crest ground off is probably worth it.
The Spanish mausers are second only to the Arisaka type 38s. Both are amazing rifles. The 98ks are nice but Spain and Japan did the Mauser more justice than the Germans.
Interesting, I have a model 1916 Spanish Mauser which was made in 1924 & same crest & also made in Oviedo. So they were making the 1893 & the 1916 in the same arsenal at the same time?
I bought one of these in '82. When I first saw it on the rack, I knew immediately that I wanted it. It became mine for $125 plus the awful Washington sales tax. It was built in "99 and appeared to have been reconditioned and had an unvarnished maple wood stock. I sprayed it with Verathane without dismounting the stock from the rest of the rifle. It was a crude expedient, but it has served well to this very day. I took it deer hunting in the Missouri Breaks of old Montana in '85 during a doe-only season. Ranges were usually short down in the bottoms, so I did not worry very much about the very high battle sight zero. I shot and downed a big doe and then shot it again for a quick kill. The next day was more interesting. From my camp, I spotted a coyote far down the Missouri and on the other side. I guessed the range to be about 350 or so yards. I was reluctant to expend an expensive Federal 175 factory load on such a distant and difficult target, but I decided to try it anyway. The wind was still, and the light was good. The varmint was a tiny grey dot like a grain of sand over the barleycorn front sight. When the tip got near, the target seemed to merge with it so that I could not tell where the sight ended and the varmint began. When I touched it off, the sight tip was just on the bottom of the target. Just after the rifle bucked and roared, I saw a splash just below where the coyote had been. It looked like the kind of splash that comes from a dead coyote falling from above rather than from a bullet hitting the water. I left the rifle and fetched my binoculars. Then I saw the varmint floating down the river. It took the better part of an hour to chase it down with the canoe and then mostly line the boat back to camp against the current. The coyote was hit through the lungs. The bullet did not seem to expand. I had the hide preserved as a trophy. After that memorable experience, I decided that it would be worth it to have a second-hand Williams peep sight mounted on the receiver along with a higher barleycorn surrounded by a circular guard. The cost was almost as much as the cost of the rifle. Now with the rear sight adjusted as low as it can go, I still cannot put the apex of the front sight in the middle of the circle. I have to put the bottom of the pyramid on the bottom of the circle and aim about two inches low to hit right on at a hundred yards. The zero seems to be about the same at two hundred yards., At three hundred, the drop is nearly a foot below point of aim. The rifle has a one in seven twist and is designed originally for 173-grain round nose bullets. One hundred seventy five works well. So also does every other kind that I have tried. My favourite hand load is a 175 round nose or spritzer bullet over 45 grains of IMR 4831. The slow powder provides a long pressure curve that is easy on the old Toledo steel. The long barrel makes maximum use of the slow powder and long pressure curve. Just recently I purchased some new ELD bullets that are 175 grains and are boat-tailed. They look to be longer than a witch's dream. I am looking forward to trying them out on the range.There is one odd thing about this rifle and, as I am told, others like it. That is excess head space. The story is that such was by design because there was wide tolerances in cartridges during the 19th century. Of course it was better to have some excess rather than to have a cartridge not feed in the heat of battle. In all the commercial factory loads that I ever fired in the rifle, all backed the primers halfway out. Then they would fall out the rest of the way in my pocket. I resize cases to the minimum, and that phenomenon does not occur with my hand loads.
Nice review and great rifle. Hope you're still enjoying it.
Spanish Infantry Mauser Model 1893
congratulation, beautiful and historic gun.
We have that Mauser Modelo 1893 with Spanish Empire Decals.
Hello there!
I also have the exact same rifle bought in Holland EU, only mine is disabled ( barrel and bolt) are welded sorry to say...also 1923....bought it for 200 euros...very nise rifle, shame mine isnt working....any tips how to make it work again?
Buy a new barrel, bolt and receiver. To deactivate, either cement is placed in the barrel or the barrel is cut open and the bolt is cut (the first inch)
The cartouche denotes service with the army 's artillery., hence the ignited canon round shell.
Jacinto Lirola Thanks for the information, it helps.
Yo tengo dos a cual más bonito,uno fabricado en 1896 en Obendorf y otro en 1920 en Sevilla.
I've got a Spanish 1893 but was sporterized for hunting
Good price. Nice looking rifle and pretty much the same rifle with only a few minor alterations that was used in the Spanish American War. I have one of the original 325,000 built of which 285,000 were made by German firms and 40,000 by the Belgians and these guns were issued in a hurry to the Spanish Colonial forces in the Philipines and Cuba due to the looming insurrections that were festering in the mid-1890's. The Spanish arsenal at Oviedo had started making them but in 1896 but those guns remained in Spain. Where the 93 Mausers would see action would be the bloody Spanish Civil War. Collectors tend to trend to the German made ones (for the Spanish) due to their history, but the Spanish made rifles are great for shooting and are find for living history and reenacting Spanish American War. A chilean 1895 stock also from German production is available to replace any sporterized stock and is pretty much identical to the 93 stock....the price of the stock and related hardware will be about 200 bucks so unless you have gotten into a Spanish made one sporterized very cheap it might not be that dollar wise to restock although the German made ones, even with the Spanish crest ground off is probably worth it.
The Spanish mausers are second only to the Arisaka type 38s. Both are amazing rifles. The 98ks are nice but Spain and Japan did the Mauser more justice than the Germans.
I own both and I would agree. The actions are super smooth.
Nice video! Where can I buy an 1893 Mauser and where can I get good deals on 7x57mm Ammo?
+starwarsraul13 Look in Pawn shops and gun stores also on Liberty Tree Collectors website online. The ammo I bought at Cabelas.
Interesting, I have a model 1916 Spanish Mauser which was made in 1924 & same crest & also made in Oviedo. So they were making the 1893 & the 1916 in the same arsenal at the same time?
Good job men
So, this is the female version of the gun... No external genitalia.