How good is the Form3+ at printing clear?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ธ.ค. 2023
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Comparing a commercially printed prototype bottle from stratasys from 2019 to a Formlabs form3+ print done in-house using clear resin.
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After my graduation i worked some time at a modelshop for Philips. Our team worked a lot on visual models/prototypes and used pretty much the same techniques. For the clear models we designed the parts in two halves with an tongue and groove. This way we could sand the insides as well and clear coat the insides this improved the clarity very much. The halves we than glued with an uv-glue together. The seams became complete invisble. By the way you are master craftsmen.
Thanks 👍
Most awesome!
Thanks for scouting ahead for me/us ❤
Thanks for this! Glad I found your channel! Knowledge is KEY! Thanks for sharing yours!
Your welcome
Fellow prototype professional here. I've always done clear a little differently. Not saying its better or worse but we've had some great results with Formlabs clear as well. We leave ours totally in the green, no cure.
1) Block sand 400 grit to bust the touchpoints down politely (we use popsicle sticks and spray adhesive to make "mini files" for fine areas)
2) Red scotch bright wet sand (it busts highs nicely without having quite the same issues of gumming or embedding)
3) 1000 grit wet sand
4)1500 grit wet sand
5) 3000 grit wet sand
6) Clear coat as shown OR Rattle can Rustoleum clear lacquer. (Sounds dumb but it self levels incredibly well as long as you don't overdo it.)
Thanks for the breakdown, I left my parts green as well. Interesting about the Rust-Oleum clear
wonderfull sir
how did you get rid of the yellowing caused by uv curing?
Printed new ones
@@EricStrebel yea but you didnt get yellowing on the new ones after you cured them?
@3d_pablo I did not cure the final ones, just left them as the machine printed them.
@@EricStrebel ah ok, thx for the clarification. you might also want to look into water curing, heard it helps with yellowing but never tried it
@3d_pablo ok, I will investigate
Happy New Years @Eric Strebel.
Rock on.
Any reason for why you didnt place it with the bottom towards the buildplate so you didnt get any support on the inside? 🤔
Yes, you get a distorted part from the pressure when the part is plunged in the resin over and over during the build
@@EricStrebel Aa of course.. The cupping effect. I forgot about it, but maby you could make a hole in the bottom? I use a 10w UV flashlight to weld with.
Don't always use a sanding block. Use a sponge or sanding sponge when it's called for.
Use the appropriate sanding block for the surface, but it can not be soft or you will lose surface quality.
@@EricStrebel Little known fact - there are people that are AMAZING at this sort of work, and they most likely live around the corner from you. It's dudes who paints cars for a living. And they will use a sponge when needed. Alwasy look at other professions to steal idea, methods and tools. That right there is the REAL pro tip. I've help guy how worked painting cars, paint his car once (oh my ggggg - the prep work is insane) - it was amazing the amount you learn and the tricks these guys have. Mind blowing. So grab a sponge. Don't always use a block.