I watched the rack check video last night. Awesome vid! Keep the great content coming bro. Gri gri uses and knot videos are of high interest to me. Thanks for all you do for the mountaineering community. ❤
Nice update, cool to see a guide's choices! Couple things: - Cascade Designs will repair leaky thermarests for free, and half the time I have sent them an old pad to repair they have just given me a brand new one! - Hollowblock in my experience doesn't bit as well on wet or icy ropes as a standard 6mm cord loop, not sure exactly why. I switched to only bringing the hollow block if planning multiple rappels (generally only rock objectives), but for standard glacier travel, 5 or 6mm cord is more reliable for friction hitches. - Do you ever carry an ice screw? If you end up in the hole, it's a good bit of insurance where you can attach yourself to the crevasse wall while the people above you sort out an anchor. I started carrying a 16cm (blue) BD ultralight screw. - Grivel makes the Clepsydra S which is one of their unique double-gate carabiners, that is HMS and also has a belay keeper. If you're using that DMM Ceros locksafe just for clipping into the rope, the Clepsydra S is 2/3 the weight (67 vs 93g) and might handle getting covered in snow/ice better. Personally I feel comfortable using just a Petzl Sm'D triact for rope attachment. Doesn't have the anti-crossload bar but that shape rarely crossloads anyway, plus glacier forces are so low I'm not worried about that.
Thanks, ya I've been meaning to bring all those pads back to the factory, I think it would be really cool to get like 4 new sleeping pads for free, I just need to get the time for it. The hollow block totally doesn't work on icey or really wet ropes that is for sure, I also have a few 6mm cord loops that I'll bring out instead of the hollow block. I will carry ice screws, early season I may only roll with one, and by the end of the season I could have as many as four with me just incase for crevasses, running belays, or needing to pitch out an ice section. I have a clepsydra and I used it a lot last year, I would still use it for a non- technical mountaineering trip, but when I'm working on a technical climb I like the DMM more because it's easier to roll munter hitches and stuff like that than the gravel one IMO.
Hey Ryan!! 8:30 what would be the issue with stepping through the harness? Because of dirt or its just less ergonomic?? Thanks for the classes and tips
There’s no real issue with stepping through the harness, it just makes it easier to put on when mountaineering. Also if you have crampons on, it really makes a difference!
Please be careful when storing your nano traxion in the open position, especially if it's racked on your harness. It's surprisingly easy to bend stuff like that, it happens with more robust industrial descenders and pulleys too, so that thin material will not hold up long stored like that. Probably fine if you just have it in your pack with soft clothes or something though.
My kit is pretty much exactly the same lol (I just dont have a nano trax yet, so I use a micro). Can you think of any scenario where the triple length sling isn't long enough and you've already used the long cord for something else? I'm guessing the answer your no, but I carry a quad length cause I haven't managed to fully answer that question for myself yet...
I'm sure if you try really hard you could find a situation where a triple length isn't long enough, I can't think of to much, but if need be you could always cut it and use the full length of sling.
Since it's a ridge climb I would use more terrain and horn belays than a bunch of cams, I would probably bring .3-3 and a set of nuts not much more than that.
I like to leave my crevasse recuse stuff in the store... For people who know what crevasse rescue actually is and not for me who randomly stumbled on your video during TH-cam wormhole of climbing videos. 👍
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I watched the rack check video last night. Awesome vid! Keep the great content coming bro. Gri gri uses and knot videos are of high interest to me. Thanks for all you do for the mountaineering community. ❤
Nice update, cool to see a guide's choices!
Couple things:
- Cascade Designs will repair leaky thermarests for free, and half the time I have sent them an old pad to repair they have just given me a brand new one!
- Hollowblock in my experience doesn't bit as well on wet or icy ropes as a standard 6mm cord loop, not sure exactly why. I switched to only bringing the hollow block if planning multiple rappels (generally only rock objectives), but for standard glacier travel, 5 or 6mm cord is more reliable for friction hitches.
- Do you ever carry an ice screw? If you end up in the hole, it's a good bit of insurance where you can attach yourself to the crevasse wall while the people above you sort out an anchor. I started carrying a 16cm (blue) BD ultralight screw.
- Grivel makes the Clepsydra S which is one of their unique double-gate carabiners, that is HMS and also has a belay keeper. If you're using that DMM Ceros locksafe just for clipping into the rope, the Clepsydra S is 2/3 the weight (67 vs 93g) and might handle getting covered in snow/ice better. Personally I feel comfortable using just a Petzl Sm'D triact for rope attachment. Doesn't have the anti-crossload bar but that shape rarely crossloads anyway, plus glacier forces are so low I'm not worried about that.
Thanks, ya I've been meaning to bring all those pads back to the factory, I think it would be really cool to get like 4 new sleeping pads for free, I just need to get the time for it. The hollow block totally doesn't work on icey or really wet ropes that is for sure, I also have a few 6mm cord loops that I'll bring out instead of the hollow block. I will carry ice screws, early season I may only roll with one, and by the end of the season I could have as many as four with me just incase for crevasses, running belays, or needing to pitch out an ice section. I have a clepsydra and I used it a lot last year, I would still use it for a non- technical mountaineering trip, but when I'm working on a technical climb I like the DMM more because it's easier to roll munter hitches and stuff like that than the gravel one IMO.
I like to keep my crevasse rescue stuff on a DMM Revolver locker. Really reduces friction when setting up a haul system.
I wonder if you would like the grivel plume hms. It's a super small hms but for a thin rope a munter should be fine
I’m going to check out this biner thanks for sharing.
Ya I have one of those, I'll use it for more ski mountaineering things when we're rappelling with 6mm ropes a lot.
Hey Ryan!! 8:30 what would be the issue with stepping through the harness? Because of dirt or its just less ergonomic?? Thanks for the classes and tips
There’s no real issue with stepping through the harness, it just makes it easier to put on when mountaineering. Also if you have crampons on, it really makes a difference!
Please be careful when storing your nano traxion in the open position, especially if it's racked on your harness. It's surprisingly easy to bend stuff like that, it happens with more robust industrial descenders and pulleys too, so that thin material will not hold up long stored like that. Probably fine if you just have it in your pack with soft clothes or something though.
Thanks I'll keep in mind!
My kit is pretty much exactly the same lol (I just dont have a nano trax yet, so I use a micro). Can you think of any scenario where the triple length sling isn't long enough and you've already used the long cord for something else? I'm guessing the answer your no, but I carry a quad length cause I haven't managed to fully answer that question for myself yet...
I'm sure if you try really hard you could find a situation where a triple length isn't long enough, I can't think of to much, but if need be you could always cut it and use the full length of sling.
@@ryantilley9063 true true. thanks
If you were doing forbidden and planning to simul climb it; what’s your set up for that?
Since it's a ridge climb I would use more terrain and horn belays than a bunch of cams, I would probably bring .3-3 and a set of nuts not much more than that.
For the algorithm! ✊
I like to leave my crevasse recuse stuff in the store... For people who know what crevasse rescue actually is and not for me who randomly stumbled on your video during TH-cam wormhole of climbing videos. 👍