Heya fella, you mean for the worm coil? Just me but I probably wouldn't go much below 3/4 inch. 1/2 inch could work (and be easier to work than 3/4) as long as you weren't flooding the flakestand and had a gentle flow coming out of it. Main thing is to have the coil running downhill all the way so you don't get pools forming in the coils and blocking the worm.
G'day Darren, Mapp gas torch, Lead-free silver bearing solid solder and general soldering liquid flux. This was one of my earlier experiences doing S/S to copper so it ain't that pretty. It takes a while to nail it as a technique and a lot of people don't like soldering S/S to copper but once you've done it a few times it's not a big deal. Trick as always is just directing the right amount of heat onto each surface and not just blasting away at the joint directly and cooking your flux off. Flux is your friend. Other necessity is to have the parts clean as a whistle around the join area to start with - almost need to be as retentive on the surface pre-cleaning as you would on TIG welding aluminium if you've done that before. I usually scrub the surfaces with a 3M abrasive metal cleaning pad and wipe the surface down with acetone. Ah - other thing is to make sure you parts match as closely as possible - tolerance fits if you can. If you have big gaps the solder is going to flow straight thru' (very hard to gap-fill solder as you can in welding). Ah ah ah - other thing that can help if a particular joint s/s-to-copper is a pain in the butt, is pre-tinning the annoying surfaces/join area with silver solder, so you already have a coating on the parts. I solder S/S ferrules to copper tube in my " 2" combo still " video quite a bit.
charles vereschagin Just use the highest quaily silver solder you can find NO LEAD . Plumbers flux is fine just clean it after very good and distill just some water threw it just in case .
G'day Charles, plumbing grade "lead-free silver bearing solid wire solder". The flux is also quite important - I've tried a few. You want an acidic general purpose flux that contains zinc-chloride, they'll usually have "suitable for stainless steel" somewhere on the container but not always. Apologies for the late reply only just seen your question. Happy Distilling!
@@AngryParrotDistillery is there a way to make your coil without having a bender? Like for example, can i fill it with sand and use a barrel or something round and do it by hand, or would that put my tubing at risk?
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what diameter of the copper tube would be the minimum
Heya fella, you mean for the worm coil?
Just me but I probably wouldn't go much below 3/4 inch. 1/2 inch could work (and be easier to work than 3/4) as long as you weren't flooding the flakestand and had a gentle flow coming out of it.
Main thing is to have the coil running downhill all the way so you don't get pools forming in the coils and blocking the worm.
@@AngryParrotDistillery thank you parrot sir
how did u solder the copper to the stainless
G'day Darren,
Mapp gas torch, Lead-free silver bearing solid solder and general soldering liquid flux.
This was one of my earlier experiences doing S/S to copper so it ain't that pretty.
It takes a while to nail it as a technique and a lot of people don't like soldering S/S to copper but once you've done it a few times it's not a big deal.
Trick as always is just directing the right amount of heat onto each surface and not just blasting away at the joint directly and cooking your flux off.
Flux is your friend.
Other necessity is to have the parts clean as a whistle around the join area to start with - almost need to be as retentive on the surface pre-cleaning as you would on TIG welding aluminium if you've done that before.
I usually scrub the surfaces with a 3M abrasive metal cleaning pad and wipe the surface down with acetone.
Ah - other thing is to make sure you parts match as closely as possible - tolerance fits if you can.
If you have big gaps the solder is going to flow straight thru' (very hard to gap-fill solder as you can in welding).
Ah ah ah - other thing that can help if a particular joint s/s-to-copper is a pain in the butt, is pre-tinning the annoying surfaces/join area with silver solder, so you already have a coating on the parts.
I solder S/S ferrules to copper tube in my " 2" combo still " video quite a bit.
I had no success in soldering is your solder silver solder for plumbing or for jewelry ?
charles vereschagin Just use the highest quaily silver solder you can find NO LEAD . Plumbers flux is fine just clean it after very good and distill just some water threw it just in case .
G'day Charles, plumbing grade "lead-free silver bearing solid wire solder".
The flux is also quite important - I've tried a few.
You want an acidic general purpose flux that contains zinc-chloride, they'll usually have "suitable for stainless steel" somewhere on the container but not always.
Apologies for the late reply only just seen your question.
Happy Distilling!
How did you coil the pipe
I have a custom tube bender that I can run coils out of.
Has a flat capstan style to it rather than one of the verticle oriented commercial jobbies.
@@AngryParrotDistillery is there a way to make your coil without having a bender? Like for example, can i fill it with sand and use a barrel or something round and do it by hand, or would that put my tubing at risk?
You have to speak more clear
Apologies, … English is my second language … Slovenlykiwi is my first.
@@AngryParrotDistillery you are speaking fine done let them bother you
@@shanegrisham179 exactly