Very helpful video and a fairly straight forward procedure. I got a mechanical tensioner pulley in my kit and was planning on reusing the old tensioner pulley but broke it when I attempted to tighten the belt using an allen socket in a clockwise direction. After replacing it with the manual tensioner in my kit I still tightened the belt going clockwise. When I started the engine I got a noticeable whine and surmised that my belt was too tight. I came to the conclusion eventually that the tensioner should be turned counter-clockwise enabling the tensioner to swing lower on the belt for a more effective tension adjustment. I made the belt tight enough to easily twist the belt between 45 degrees and 90 degrees at the long run on the right side. If you can go 90 degrees twisting the belt will be a little flappy when you run the engine.
This video accompanied me out the driveway as I did this on my own 2007 Elantra. A few things: 1. You have an editing problem at the end of the first part/beginning of the second part 2. You didn't replace the timing belt idler pulley. To those that got one of these in their kit, it's simply a 14mm (or 12mm) bolt that can be reached from below and is a simple change.
Thx for posting this video. Gotta do this on my gf's 2008 Elantra soon. Just a couple notes: You really REALLY should've replaced the water pump and idler pulley for the timing belt. You are already in there doing the work so there's little reason to not replace them. If the water pump bearings or idler pulley bearings fail it can be quite catastrophic. Either overheating or timing belt losing tension can result. Ask me how I know!
1.You attach the pulley and have the main bolt loose. 2. Next you use an allen wrench to align the arrow. 3. Next you snug the main bolt with a socket wrench while holding the tensioner in place. 4. Remove the allen wrench and follow up with a torque wrench to set the main bolt. Note that the torque wrench does not cause the tensioner to become misaligned when you tighten.
Some people recommend changing both the idler and the tension pulley while you have the parts exposed. I do not know that you would really have to change either one if you are willing to take the chance that it will not go bad before your next timing belt change. I did just the tension pulley.
@ARMZ0906 If you want to follow the recommendations from Hyundai and professional mechanics? then you should replace all belts, tensioner, idler pully, and water pump to do this repair right. I had to cut corners somewhere due to budget and this is how I chose to do the repair.
Hi Thank you. Good camera work. My mechanic took the upper engine cover (valve cover?) off, immobilized the crank with a wrench before loosening the screws to take the timing belt off. You did not ... can you please explain how you achieved this? Thanks again.
@ARMZ0906 Thank you for the information. As I have stated before, I am not a professional mechanic and if you are then great. I performed this repair 25 thousand miles ago and my car is running great. Maybe I am just lucky!
The only thing you need to do to tension the timing belt is to use your allen wrench and line up the arrow indicator on the timing belt tensioner then tighten the bolt holding the tension pulley to the engine. See the video at 5min 35 sec. No other adjustments are needed.
4. I *broke* the ground strap bolt off on the engine mounting bracket and pieces of it fell into the timing cover. I had to fish them out with magnets and such. Now I'm trying to find a solution to bolting down the strap. A new bracket is $100 + $0.87 for a new bolt.
mvburch, i am stuck on minute 2:06 of this video. My pulley at the bottom is not easy to take out. I got the bolt out, but the pulley is hardly budging. I do not know how to get it out.
I do not mind if you use a still photo from my video. If you can tell me the still that you need, I could email you a HD quality pic. This was recorded in HD (h.264 compression)and then downgraded for web posting.
***** Thanks for the input. I have no problem with receiving input that helps to improve on the quality of work. If your going to do a job you should be doing it right.
@GreenClover I went a smooth 120 upto connecticut from ny and it felt like I was going 80. I bought mine from someone who was ab to junk it and put a used motor into it bc they blew theirs at 204k I got one with 91k and changed the timing belt water pump you name it. It has everything new upto service interval and she rips like a dream. Takes anything. I just turned 19 so you could imagine what I put it through. Best feeling 4 cylinder. I forget I don’t drive a V6 anymore. And the electronic steering is heaven, cutting it up on the freeway never felt more natural
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful. Thank you
Very helpful video and a fairly straight forward procedure. I got a mechanical tensioner pulley in my kit and was planning on reusing the old tensioner pulley but broke it when I attempted to tighten the belt using an allen socket in a clockwise direction.
After replacing it with the manual tensioner in my kit I still tightened the belt going clockwise. When I started the engine I got a noticeable whine and surmised that my belt was too tight. I came to the conclusion eventually that the tensioner should be turned counter-clockwise enabling the tensioner to swing lower on the belt for a more effective tension adjustment. I made the belt tight enough to easily twist the belt between 45 degrees and 90 degrees at the long run on the right side.
If you can go 90 degrees twisting the belt will be a little flappy when you run the engine.
This video accompanied me out the driveway as I did this on my own 2007 Elantra. A few things:
1. You have an editing problem at the end of the first part/beginning of the second part
2. You didn't replace the timing belt idler pulley. To those that got one of these in their kit, it's simply a 14mm (or 12mm) bolt that can be reached from below and is a simple change.
Thx for posting this video. Gotta do this on my gf's 2008 Elantra soon. Just a couple notes: You really REALLY should've replaced the water pump and idler pulley for the timing belt. You are already in there doing the work so there's little reason to not replace them. If the water pump bearings or idler pulley bearings fail it can be quite catastrophic. Either overheating or timing belt losing tension can result. Ask me how I know!
1.You attach the pulley and have the main bolt loose. 2. Next you use an allen wrench to align the arrow. 3. Next you snug the main bolt with a socket wrench while holding the tensioner in place. 4. Remove the allen wrench and follow up with a torque wrench to set the main bolt. Note that the torque wrench does not cause the tensioner to become misaligned when you tighten.
Some people recommend changing both the idler and the tension pulley while you have the parts exposed. I do not know that you would really have to change either one if you are willing to take the chance that it will not go bad before your next timing belt change. I did just the tension pulley.
4:30 That's brilliant!
Thanks for the walkthrough. I just wanted to see what I was up against in my wife's 07. Looks pretty simple
Great job!
I only remember the one bolt that moves the pulley back and allows you to pull the belt off ofthe air conditioning
@ARMZ0906 If you want to follow the recommendations from Hyundai and professional mechanics? then you should replace all belts, tensioner, idler pully, and water pump to do this repair right. I had to cut corners somewhere due to budget and this is how I chose to do the repair.
Hi Thank you. Good camera work. My mechanic took the upper engine cover (valve cover?) off, immobilized the crank with a wrench before loosening the screws to take the timing belt off. You did not ... can you please explain how you achieved this? Thanks again.
3. The tensioner in my kit was a static one and less complicated than the OEM one, and will need manual inspection at some point I'm sure.
Very good!
Good motor
Thank you very informative great point on counting the teeth on the belt.
@ARMZ0906 Thank you for the information. As I have stated before, I am not a professional mechanic and if you are then great. I performed this repair 25 thousand miles ago and my car is running great. Maybe I am just lucky!
The only thing you need to do to tension the timing belt is to use your allen wrench and line up the arrow indicator on the timing belt tensioner then tighten the bolt holding the tension pulley to the engine. See the video at 5min 35 sec. No other adjustments are needed.
4. I *broke* the ground strap bolt off on the engine mounting bracket and pieces of it fell into the timing cover. I had to fish them out with magnets and such. Now I'm trying to find a solution to bolting down the strap. A new bracket is $100 + $0.87 for a new bolt.
mvburch, i am stuck on minute 2:06 of this video. My pulley at the bottom is not easy to take out. I got the bolt out, but the pulley is hardly budging. I do not know how to get it out.
Great Video, What kind of camera are you using?
@Mainbwana What is the type and year model of your vehicle? I just want to make sure that my answer applies to your situation.
Great video
I do not mind if you use a still photo from my video. If you can tell me the still that you need, I could email you a HD quality pic. This was recorded in HD (h.264 compression)and then downgraded for web posting.
How to tell if it needs to be changed?
I just follow the manufacturers recommend service intervals. You should consult a mechanic for other symptoms to look for.
good
You shouldn't really use wobble extensions when tightening any high-torque fasteners down.
*****
Well some of us know what we are taking about, otherwise we could take our cars to a dealer...or you...and get the same quality work. LOL
***** Thanks for the input. I have no problem with receiving input that helps to improve on the quality of work. If your going to do a job you should be doing it right.
after how many miles should u change it? ive heard after 60k miles
just take it to the garage
Theres no need for marks if you were a mechanic you would on noticed markings already there
Is that car fun to drive?
Very fun
@GreenClover HAHAHAHAHA YOURE RIGHT IM WRONG LMFAO
@GreenClover I went a smooth 120 upto connecticut from ny and it felt like I was going 80. I bought mine from someone who was ab to junk it and put a used motor into it bc they blew theirs at 204k I got one with 91k and changed the timing belt water pump you name it. It has everything new upto service interval and she rips like a dream. Takes anything. I just turned 19 so you could imagine what I put it through. Best feeling 4 cylinder. I forget I don’t drive a V6 anymore. And the electronic steering is heaven, cutting it up on the freeway never felt more natural