Thanks, my 2012 Q3 TDI doesn't have the oil filter in the same place, it seems to be a cartridge filter instead and hidden on the right hand side, a little harder to change.
Thanks for that. Yes yours is a TDI. So turbo diesel injection. This one is a TSFI so turbo sequential fuel injection. The biggest difference is yours is a diesel and this one is regular gas. Appreciate the comment and you doing your own oil change!!!! Thanks for watching, check out the channel and if you enjoy the vids please consider subscribing. Thanks again!!!!
@@WDStock_man That is strange, I wonder why they changed it? Probably cost. I like the bottom as it protects everything underneath and if you get an oil leak you can find it without it going all over the driveway. I wonder if one from a 2021 would fit? One from the wrecker would be really cheap.
Hey thanks for the comment. The outside air temperature and way you drive (if you race your car) can influence the oil viscosity you use. If you go to your owners manual there may be a few types and temperature charts and you can see which one best suits you. This Q3 is best with 0W40 as I’m in Canada so the temperatures are colder. Remember the thicker the oil the longer it takes to lubricate everyone and if you are running a turbo you want the oil getting to the turbo :)
Hey brother, the oil light needs a scanner to reset. I did a video on it and used a launch scanner, it was the cheapest one I could find that would do what I needed it to do. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/HzPWF48tnx4/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps you out!!!!
Hey there buddy :) I did change the oil filter, if you look at 5:10 to 5:17 I take it out, you can see its dirty and dusty. I give the part number at 5:30. At 5:33 you can see the new oil filter (the rubber seal is dry and clean). I lube up the new seal and install at 6:17. The sump seal is copper and I usually change them every second time and I have never had a problem. Most people over torque oil plug bolts, the bolt does not have to be that tight. I do actually check for leaks, but do it at the end after the tray is fitted and everything is done. In this case you are right, the tray would hide a leak. I have never had a leak, but good observation by you :) Also on next oil change video I will try to remember the sump plug gasket to make a comment as that is a good point you raised. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching :)
Yup T45 for oil bolt and splash shield, but there are also T25 on the splash shield as well. You will also need a flat head screwdriver for some fasteners.
@@bigalgames1883 Hey There, if your service message comes on when you start the vehicle then you need to reset that. You should reset it anyway as you have just changed the oil. To do that you need a scanner with oil reset capabilities, you can't do it with the dash buttons.
Thats strange, when I undo the filter it does not make a big mess?? Maybe your filter has a better anti-drain back valve in it? But usually I take the filter off after I shut off the motor off. Mind you I do take the filter off slowly, so I loosen it to break the seal, then wait a few seconds then spin off, maybe that makes a difference ?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. I believe on this video I reused the washer, as it was a copper washer and had some life left in it (plus I didn't have another one handy) All washers crush down a bit. If they are copper I find you can reuse them a few times. On my GSXR it's a true crush washer that collapses about 25%, those you can't reuse. Some people swear to replace them every time and that's good practice.
@@GarageKing I have a 2018 Q3 Premium. I had a 5000S way back in the late 80s and it fell apart on me. I hate Audis. I got this one because it got such a high reliability from JD power and the qualtto. But the stupid fact that Audi would is this complex (EXPENSIVE) pump operation to suck the oil out of the stupid dipstick hole is ABSURD and SOOO "Audi" to do something like that so they can charge you $150 to change the oil. I buy my own and Mann filter and take it to Honda and they do it for $18.00. But in the two times I've done that they've never said, hey dude you need this "crush washer" to complete the process. So either they have them there at the shop, or they are reusing the one I have. But so far so good.
@@guywthclss Hey there, I agree with you about these oil changes, ridiculous...... In relation to your comment about the crush washer, Honda is probably reusing your old one, as the copper washers on the Audi are different size to the honda so you can't interchange them. They don't really crush, they just squish a tiny bit....
Very good question. I use the quickjack and here is the review th-cam.com/video/0JsUoW2aXOA/w-d-xo.html I think this is the best way to do it, but I understand its not the cheapest thing around. The other way would be ramps that you drive up amzn.to/3kE0v3z and the reason for that is you have to take the bottom pan off the vehicle. I would not recommend a regular jack as you will have good access on one side, but then the other side that is not jacked up will be too close to the ground and it will be tough. How do I know, I did it that way once. Either a quickjack, or the ramps, that's the way to do it. Ramps are here: amzn.to/3kE0v3z
@@epbski No No No, only on the front wheels. You line up the ramps with the front wheels, then get in the vehicle, and slowly drive up, then put the vehicle in park and apply the park brake. This will get the front end high enough for you to get safely under and remove the bottom pan. The vehicle will be tilted upward as the front is higher than the rear, but that's fine for draining the oil as the drain plug is located on the rear of the pan and will face down even more. No silly questions on this channel :)
@@epbski Sure thing, to remove the lower pan you need a torx T-25, T-45, and a flat head, or slotted screw driver. Then for the drain plug takes the T-45, then all you need is an oil filter removal wrench. I have screw drivers that are torx bits, but to save money you can just buy a set of 3/8" drive torx amzn.to/3EHzKDc and a 3/8 drive ratchet amzn.to/3hUmily and a cheaper filter wrench amzn.to/3i0oEzv That's all you need :)
@@thevisitor5249 It's really up to you, but buy a quality filter for sure. I have had really good results with Mann filters for german cars. I use them for all the German cars I work on. My VW Vanagon likes them (The drain back valve works well). The oil needs to meet VW502 00 spec and the viscosity called for is 0W40. You can't just buy any 0W40 oil. On the back of the jug make sure it meets VW502 00 (most European oils do). Audi recommends Castrol, but I have used Mobile 1 0W40 as well that meets VW502 00. So any 0W40 that meets VW502 00 will do.
@@thevisitor5249 Anytime, and thanks for watching!!!! By the way, I have a video on how to change the fuel injector on this vehicle, and I gave it a carbon cleaning. I'm still editing it so it won't be out for a few weeks.
Hey buddy !!! The one in the video is now pushing 200,000Kms so about 150,000miles and other than regular oil changes, the only things that had to be done is the carbon cleaning, and the replacement of one fuel injector. If there was a good catch can installed early in its life it could have probably avoided the carbon cleaning.
@@GarageKing Do you think the carbon cleaning could have been avoided if the person had used a complete fuel system cleaner like STP or Gumout on a regular basis every several thousand miles/kms?
@@epbski No because this is a direct injected engine. What that means is the fuel and cleaners you add will be sprayed directly into the engine cylinder. The carbon build up is on the valves and is created by the oily PVC vapors hitting the valve and burning onto the valve. Unfortunately there is no way to get the cleaner to hit those valves. On the old port style injected engines cleaners worked because the fuel was sprayed before the valve so the fuel and cleaner hit the valve. Now it goes directly into the cylinder so there is no way to wash that dirty valve. You either have to manually clean it when it gums up too much or make the air that hits the valve cleaner by installing a good quality catch can. All catch cans are not created equal and some are not worth even installing.
202k on my 2.0T... change spark plugs every 50,000 miles regardless. When turbos spin up they will blow out a weak plug.. make a misfire and it will damage your turbo. Regular maintenance you're good for 300K
@@kennys501 Thanks for the comment, I knew the 5L jug was enough and it was over 4, but I can't remember how much I had left over. I did have some left over. Thanks for the comment :)
Very practical video. 👌
Thank you for the comment, and much appreciated !!!
Thanks bud this was perfect, wasn't sure what T bit to get to pull the cover off plus the moving stuff out of the way for the filter was helpful
Thanks for the comment, and hope you are enjoying your weekend :)
Thanks, my 2012 Q3 TDI doesn't have the oil filter in the same place, it seems to be a cartridge filter instead and hidden on the right hand side, a little harder to change.
Thanks for that. Yes yours is a TDI. So turbo diesel injection. This one is a TSFI so turbo sequential fuel injection. The biggest difference is yours is a diesel and this one is regular gas. Appreciate the comment and you doing your own oil change!!!! Thanks for watching, check out the channel and if you enjoy the vids please consider subscribing. Thanks again!!!!
I have a 2022 Q3 no bearer underneath. I'm going to check with the dealership about this bearer.
I went to check this morning. No bearer for 2022 models I guess.
@@WDStock_man That is strange, I wonder why they changed it? Probably cost. I like the bottom as it protects everything underneath and if you get an oil leak you can find it without it going all over the driveway. I wonder if one from a 2021 would fit? One from the wrecker would be really cheap.
very helpful since im used to Japanese cars, also, hand tight for the oil filter is good enough? could you have snugged it with the ratchet? thx
Yup, good hand tight, just like the Japanese cars. I think if you used a wrench on the filter it would be too tight !!
Great ..! Looks eazy..! Tnks
Thank you for the comment !!
I have a 2018 Audi Q3 Quattro. I was reading it is best to use 5W-40 oil. Is that true?
Hey thanks for the comment. The outside air temperature and way you drive (if you race your car) can influence the oil viscosity you use. If you go to your owners manual there may be a few types and temperature charts and you can see which one best suits you. This Q3 is best with 0W40 as I’m in Canada so the temperatures are colder. Remember the thicker the oil the longer it takes to lubricate everyone and if you are running a turbo you want the oil getting to the turbo :)
Hey man would you recommend 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40? Im kinda stuck choosing.
I think Audi recommends 0W40, make sure you get the euro blend
@@GarageKing thanks man! So it's good all year around? I got a 2.0 tfsi Q3
@@Prablem6 Yup, as far as I know you can use 0W40, it actually provides better starting in the winter.
Hello..... Bro you did oil change work Awesome but what about the oil reset...... Must needed
Hey brother, the oil light needs a scanner to reset. I did a video on it and used a launch scanner, it was the cheapest one I could find that would do what I needed it to do. Here is the video:
th-cam.com/video/HzPWF48tnx4/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps you out!!!!
@@GarageKing On my 2018 at least, you can reset the Oil service indicator just using the MMI.
@@JVR_Funwithdesign thanks for the comment. Excellent news, and I guess Audi changed it as the earlier ones needed a scanner.
Why didn’t you change the oil filter? Sump plug seal and check for leaks before fitting the tray?
Hey there buddy :) I did change the oil filter, if you look at 5:10 to 5:17 I take it out, you can see its dirty and dusty. I give the part number at 5:30. At 5:33 you can see the new oil filter (the rubber seal is dry and clean). I lube up the new seal and install at 6:17. The sump seal is copper and I usually change them every second time and I have never had a problem. Most people over torque oil plug bolts, the bolt does not have to be that tight. I do actually check for leaks, but do it at the end after the tray is fitted and everything is done. In this case you are right, the tray would hide a leak. I have never had a leak, but good observation by you :) Also on next oil change video I will try to remember the sump plug gasket to make a comment as that is a good point you raised. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching :)
Just to confirm, the T45 is used for both the oil bolt and the engine splash shield?
Yup T45 for oil bolt and splash shield, but there are also T25 on the splash shield as well. You will also need a flat head screwdriver for some fasteners.
Awesome, thank you! Also do you need to reset anything with the car computer after completing the oil change?
@@bigalgames1883 Hey There, if your service message comes on when you start the vehicle then you need to reset that. You should reset it anyway as you have just changed the oil. To do that you need a scanner with oil reset capabilities, you can't do it with the dash buttons.
Awesome, thank you so much for the video and the info! 😊
@@bigalgames1883 Anytime !!
How do you keep it from making a mess? Everytime I loosen the filter it drains all over the serpentine belt
Thats strange, when I undo the filter it does not make a big mess?? Maybe your filter has a better anti-drain back valve in it? But usually I take the filter off after I shut off the motor off. Mind you I do take the filter off slowly, so I loosen it to break the seal, then wait a few seconds then spin off, maybe that makes a difference ?
Did you have a "crush" washer on the drain plug and did you replace it? Just curious
Hey there and thanks for the comment. I believe on this video I reused the washer, as it was a copper washer and had some life left in it (plus I didn't have another one handy) All washers crush down a bit. If they are copper I find you can reuse them a few times. On my GSXR it's a true crush washer that collapses about 25%, those you can't reuse. Some people swear to replace them every time and that's good practice.
@@GarageKing Also I have two videos on the AWD system at work. They are brief but they really do show the quattro system off well.
@@GarageKing I have a 2018 Q3 Premium. I had a 5000S way back in the late 80s and it fell apart on me. I hate Audis. I got this one because it got such a high reliability from JD power and the qualtto. But the stupid fact that Audi would is this complex (EXPENSIVE) pump operation to suck the oil out of the stupid dipstick hole is ABSURD and SOOO "Audi" to do something like that so they can charge you $150 to change the oil. I buy my own and Mann filter and take it to Honda and they do it for $18.00. But in the two times I've done that they've never said, hey dude you need this "crush washer" to complete the process. So either they have them there at the shop, or they are reusing the one I have. But so far so good.
@@guywthclss Hey there, I agree with you about these oil changes, ridiculous...... In relation to your comment about the crush washer, Honda is probably reusing your old one, as the copper washers on the Audi are different size to the honda so you can't interchange them. They don't really crush, they just squish a tiny bit....
@@guywthclss The quattro system is good, I have researched it, and its a good system for sure !!!
my oil filter on top where i put the oil in next to it q3 3019
Thank you for the comment, and good to know. So it looks like they have not changed anything. Thank you
What is the best way/thing to use to elevate the Q3?
Very good question. I use the quickjack and here is the review th-cam.com/video/0JsUoW2aXOA/w-d-xo.html I think this is the best way to do it, but I understand its not the cheapest thing around. The other way would be ramps that you drive up amzn.to/3kE0v3z and the reason for that is you have to take the bottom pan off the vehicle. I would not recommend a regular jack as you will have good access on one side, but then the other side that is not jacked up will be too close to the ground and it will be tough. How do I know, I did it that way once. Either a quickjack, or the ramps, that's the way to do it. Ramps are here: amzn.to/3kE0v3z
@@GarageKing But obviously you need to use the ramps on all 4 wheels? Or am I wrong? Sorry for my ignorance.
@@epbski No No No, only on the front wheels. You line up the ramps with the front wheels, then get in the vehicle, and slowly drive up, then put the vehicle in park and apply the park brake. This will get the front end high enough for you to get safely under and remove the bottom pan. The vehicle will be tilted upward as the front is higher than the rear, but that's fine for draining the oil as the drain plug is located on the rear of the pan and will face down even more. No silly questions on this channel :)
@@GarageKing And would you be willing to tell me which screwdrivers, ratchets, wrenches, and the sizes I will need?
@@epbski Sure thing, to remove the lower pan you need a torx T-25, T-45, and a flat head, or slotted screw driver. Then for the drain plug takes the T-45, then all you need is an oil filter removal wrench. I have screw drivers that are torx bits, but to save money you can just buy a set of 3/8" drive torx amzn.to/3EHzKDc and a 3/8 drive ratchet amzn.to/3hUmily and a cheaper filter wrench amzn.to/3i0oEzv That's all you need :)
I've being doing the oil change on a 2016 q3 and the oil filter is definitely under the car
Strange, I wonder if you have a different engine? This is the turbo 4? I do appreciate the comment and hope you are having a good weekend :)
Q7 maybe but not 4T Q3
Сколько литров ушло масла?
Я точно не помню, но 5-литрового кувшина более чем достаточно, я думаю, что это близко к 5. Спасибо за комментарий !!
how many miles does your audi have ?
Hi there, it had about 78,000miles or 125,000kms at the time of that oil change.
@@GarageKing i have a 2015 Q3 should i use same oil and filter as yours?
@@thevisitor5249 It's really up to you, but buy a quality filter for sure. I have had really good results with Mann filters for german cars. I use them for all the German cars I work on. My VW Vanagon likes them (The drain back valve works well). The oil needs to meet VW502 00 spec and the viscosity called for is 0W40. You can't just buy any 0W40 oil. On the back of the jug make sure it meets VW502 00 (most European oils do). Audi recommends Castrol, but I have used Mobile 1 0W40 as well that meets VW502 00. So any 0W40 that meets VW502 00 will do.
@@GarageKing sounds good thank you!
@@thevisitor5249 Anytime, and thanks for watching!!!! By the way, I have a video on how to change the fuel injector on this vehicle, and I gave it a carbon cleaning. I'm still editing it so it won't be out for a few weeks.
Does anyone have an idea how long this engine and turbocharger can last without issues?
Hey buddy !!! The one in the video is now pushing 200,000Kms so about 150,000miles and other than regular oil changes, the only things that had to be done is the carbon cleaning, and the replacement of one fuel injector. If there was a good catch can installed early in its life it could have probably avoided the carbon cleaning.
@@GarageKing Do you think the carbon cleaning could have been avoided if the person had used a complete fuel system cleaner like STP or Gumout on a regular basis every several thousand miles/kms?
@@epbski No because this is a direct injected engine. What that means is the fuel and cleaners you add will be sprayed directly into the engine cylinder. The carbon build up is on the valves and is created by the oily PVC vapors hitting the valve and burning onto the valve. Unfortunately there is no way to get the cleaner to hit those valves. On the old port style injected engines cleaners worked because the fuel was sprayed before the valve so the fuel and cleaner hit the valve. Now it goes directly into the cylinder so there is no way to wash that dirty valve. You either have to manually clean it when it gums up too much or make the air that hits the valve cleaner by installing a good quality catch can. All catch cans are not created equal and some are not worth even installing.
Mine has about 120000 miles and so far so good. I did have to do one carbon cleaning and I can't remember but I think it was around 80000 miles
202k on my 2.0T... change spark plugs every 50,000 miles regardless. When turbos spin up they will blow out a weak plug.. make a misfire and it will damage your turbo. Regular maintenance you're good for 300K
He doesn’t say how many quarts it takes.
Sorry about that, a 5L jug will more than do, as it takes just over 4.
Five
@@kennys501 Thanks for the comment, I knew the 5L jug was enough and it was over 4, but I can't remember how much I had left over. I did have some left over. Thanks for the comment :)
“Owh-dee” not “Ah-dee”
Ha Ha you are right, it’s my Canadian accent LOL :)