I typically cut my cups, gates and vents off with a grinder with a cutoff wheel. But I have also used a hand saw with a metal cutting blade for small delicate cuts or a carbon arc for heavy hard to reach gates.
As for the cups anything combustible is fine. And they can certainly be all Wax. I prefer the Styrofoam because of evacuates that much quicker. There is something said that it’s not great for the environment but there’s so much other nasty stuff out there that it’s a drop in the bucket.
Thanks Eric!! Can you also advice wrt de-waxing the ceramic shell, you once said in your video that we can put the shell in boiling water to get wax out, so is that an effective method? Sorry for the long question...
@@priyamtiwari5992 Boiling out shells to de-wax is viable but not ideal. its is slower and can lead to more cracking. but if you are in an area that you cant get away with dark smoke then its better then nothing. just remeber that you will still need to vitrify the shells after the dewax.
I'm trying to find a flame torch to vitrify the shell, if i get that, then i will burn the wax out else i will need to de-wax first as buring in a wood fired pottery oven will melt the wax even more slowly and may cause cracking.
@@priyamtiwari5992 If that is your only option there are a cooupl eof things you can to prevent some of the cracks. When gating do a direst spru from the cup to the thickess part of the pattern (fastest exit). another thing would be to make your shell a few dips thicker.
I’m trying this!
Very clever. valuable content.
This is such a cool process! Is there a specific type of wax that you prefer?
You can use a vairety of waxes but I prefer Microcrystaline wax. I use Premiere Bronze from Remet.com
Hello, when and how you removing the cups, thank you.
I typically cut my cups, gates and vents off with a grinder with a cutoff wheel. But I have also used a hand saw with a metal cutting blade for small delicate cuts or a carbon arc for heavy hard to reach gates.
Love the content keep it up man!
Working on it, Thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks for the very helpful videos. Do you have a special surface where you place the warm waxed cups so it doesn't stick?
I just old sections of counter tops.
I'm pretty sure this question will be answered if I move onto the next videos but should you always make multiple of these at a time?
With the cups its more efficient to make multiples.. I typically make them in sets of 20.
Is using Styrofoam cups a preference or a best practice? Can other cups be used in the process or is durability an issue?
As for the cups anything combustible is fine. And they can certainly be all Wax. I prefer the Styrofoam because of evacuates that much quicker. There is something said that it’s not great for the environment but there’s so much other nasty stuff out there that it’s a drop in the bucket.
What kind of wax do you use? What source?
Im using a microcrystalline wax, specifically Remet's premiere bronze wax.
What is the purpose of spending wax and time to cover entire surface of the caps? Does not shell slurry stick to Styrofoam?
I cover the whole cup and cardboard to make it water tight and the extra dips on the sides of the cup to add strength.
Hi Eric, can we use paper cups instead? unable to get styrofoam here... please help..
Paper is fine.
Thanks Eric!!
Can you also advice wrt de-waxing the ceramic shell, you once said in your video that we can put the shell in boiling water to get wax out, so is that an effective method?
Sorry for the long question...
@@priyamtiwari5992 Boiling out shells to de-wax is viable but not ideal. its is slower and can lead to more cracking. but if you are in an area that you cant get away with dark smoke then its better then nothing. just remeber that you will still need to vitrify the shells after the dewax.
I'm trying to find a flame torch to vitrify the shell, if i get that, then i will burn the wax out else i will need to de-wax first as buring in a wood fired pottery oven will melt the wax even more slowly and may cause cracking.
@@priyamtiwari5992 If that is your only option there are a cooupl eof things you can to prevent some of the cracks. When gating do a direst spru from the cup to the thickess part of the pattern (fastest exit). another thing would be to make your shell a few dips thicker.
Comments gone?
seem to be working, but not sure why old comments for this video are gone.
@@LunarburnStudio Eric, super thanks for this video. Roy