To many times I have just plugged all the AC lines and compressor and just reused the dryer. I just pull a looooong vacuum, so far I haven’t been bitten. 😂 and that ground wire, was just asking to become a problem. I’m a freak about grounds, even more so on a full frame car.
I read somewhere that the 67 Mustang is unique with its engine mounts. That is, that the mounts are different to 65 66, and 68 to 70. Maybe thats why someone butchered the mounts in that car to fit an engine from another year?
Nicely done, thank you! A nice overview of pulling an engine from a late 60’s Ford. Always interesting to hear the little recommendations in caping lines and alike that saves a person time and $$& later when putting the motor back. A great review for anyone soon to be pulling their engine. And yes, there is something rewarding of freeing an engine free of its mounts.
Another well done video ! I am sure Andrew's editing made it look a little easier than it was. The power steering hose set-up on the control valve resembled the on I took off my '67 . Needless to say, it won't go back the way it was.
That D.U.I. distributor (Davis Unified Ignition) while a quick and simple to install piece of equipment, its major flaw in this application (289, 302 ,etc.) is its physical size. The heater hose outlet on the intake manifold interferes with the distributors wire harness. Where this exits the base of the unit, results in a limited ability to advance and retard timing. The vacumm advance canister and its position further limits the ability to make timing adjustments. This might not be a problem on the wider 351 windsor engines. I Installed one of these distributors 2 weeks ago on a 302 powered 1974 Bronco project that a customer wanted help with fixing its non-operational Dura spark II system. He requested something more modern and my first choice was an MSD "Ready To Run" unit with vacumm advance. I mentioned D.U.I. piece and its 1 wire installation which he liked for the simplicity, but still balked at the price tag. So I did some more digging and found a much cheaper Summit Racing version which he agreed to and ordered... I wish I had lobbied harder for the MSD piece or even a Pertronix unit. P.S. I own a 1967 289 powered Mustang, albeit much simpler equipped then your project car. I equipped it with an all Mallory ignition system, Comp 9000 Unilite distributor, Hyfire 4 CD box and Promaster Coil way back in 1991 when I worked for "Super Shops"... yep i'm an old guy.
I'm a little surprised u didn't remove the radiator to get more room . & It sounded like Cam enjoyed pulling the motor more than lots of the other projects uve done.
The proper 1967 motor mounts are unobtanium at this point, so you have to either (A) mod them or the mounting bracket or (B) replace the mounting bracket with the '68 and use the mount that the parts stores sell, the '68 motor mount. No matter what it's a pain in the ass to get it all to fit back together.
Hey Guys - What strength bolts did you use where you connected the chain to the engine or just use the factory bolts already there? Which bolts / Where did you connect the chain to the engine?
Great job Jeff and Cam! I was hoping you’d take that HEI distributor and throw it across the shop! It’s a great distributor, but not on a Ford. Too damn big. It’s like putting a Roman candle on a birthday cake LoL 😂
How about a Borgeson power steering box? The Bendix power steering is just a mess. If I were doing one now I'd try to run the lines from the pump through the fender apron, along the outside of the frame rail, and pop them back through the fender apron right at the box in order to clean things up a little under the hood.
What was the estimated time in hours did it take to remove engine and also the estimated time to install engine if all went well with no unexpected issues.
Hello, I will be pulling a 1964 FE 390 6.4L from a 64 Galaxie 500 XL. Never done it before! I do know basic stuff. Is a 1 ton hoist, and 1500 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight a safe buy? Just want to make sure it wall handle the weight. Thanks for the video! Any advise is welcome!
Those stupid power steering valves, were they actually designed to NOT leak?? I’ve never seen that, upside it’ll rust proof the under side of the chassis.
When you disconnect the battery always remove negative cable first and install it last. Less chance of spark....Why do you always make things look harder to do then they actually are?
You definitely need to get rid of the GM type hei disturbtor. If your looking for a hei, get a ford Duraspark, I’m surprised you didn’t remove the radatior and battery, opens a lot more room
Hi Jackie, Didn't Jeff say he was going to a Pertronix? I use the big hunking MSD and it only interferes with one thermostat housing bolt a tad but i use a swivel to get to that, so no problem.
Man, I haven't yanked an engine in a long time, you made it look so good...
It was very satisfying.
To many times I have just plugged all the AC lines and compressor and just reused the dryer. I just pull a looooong vacuum, so far I haven’t been bitten. 😂 and that ground wire, was just asking to become a problem. I’m a freak about grounds, even more so on a full frame car.
Agreed!
Nice job!!! Like the fact you show all of the "oops" ... of the prior modifications.
LOTS of Oopseys
Always faster pulling it. It's everthing going back together that is fun.
Lets hope that we are in better shape going back in. I plan to put the mounts down then install the engine on the isolators.
I read somewhere that the 67 Mustang is unique with its engine mounts. That is, that the mounts are different to 65 66, and 68 to 70. Maybe thats why someone butchered the mounts in that car to fit an engine from another year?
Nicely done, thank you! A nice overview of pulling an engine from a late 60’s Ford. Always interesting to hear the little recommendations in caping lines and alike that saves a person time and $$& later when putting the motor back. A great review for anyone soon to be pulling their engine. And yes, there is something rewarding of freeing an engine free of its mounts.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another well done video ! I am sure Andrew's editing made it look a little easier than it was. The power steering hose set-up on the control valve resembled the on I took off my '67 .
Needless to say, it won't go back the way it was.
It was a looong day. At LEAST 45 minutes on that one cross bolt for the mount.
That D.U.I. distributor (Davis Unified Ignition) while a quick and simple to install piece of equipment, its major flaw in this application (289, 302 ,etc.) is its physical size. The heater hose outlet on the intake manifold interferes with the distributors wire harness. Where this exits the base of the unit, results in a limited ability to advance and retard timing. The vacumm advance canister and its position further limits the ability to make timing adjustments. This might not be a problem on the wider 351 windsor engines. I Installed one of these distributors 2 weeks ago on a 302 powered 1974 Bronco project that a customer wanted help with fixing its non-operational Dura spark II system. He requested something more modern and my first choice was an MSD "Ready To Run" unit with vacumm advance. I mentioned D.U.I. piece and its 1 wire installation which he liked for the simplicity, but still balked at the price tag. So I did some more digging and found a much cheaper Summit Racing version which he agreed to and ordered... I wish I had lobbied harder for the MSD piece or even a Pertronix unit. P.S. I own a 1967 289 powered Mustang, albeit much simpler equipped then your project car. I equipped it with an all Mallory ignition system, Comp 9000 Unilite distributor, Hyfire 4 CD box and Promaster Coil way back in 1991 when I worked for "Super Shops"... yep i'm an old guy.
I'm a little surprised u didn't remove the radiator to get more room . & It sounded like Cam enjoyed pulling the motor more than lots of the other projects uve done.
Didn't need to. Just enough room. Except for hurting his back, he did.
Getting a lot of content this week, appreciate it. Really enjoyed the video. Thank you.
Glad to hear it!
Awesome. Thank you gentlemen
Our pleasure!
The proper 1967 motor mounts are unobtanium at this point, so you have to either (A) mod them or the mounting bracket or (B) replace the mounting bracket with the '68 and use the mount that the parts stores sell, the '68 motor mount. No matter what it's a pain in the ass to get it all to fit back together.
That's exactly what I thought.
Dang I wish I had a lift you guys make this look so easy.. you wanna rebuild my 68 302 coupe?? Lol
Honestly the lift is the best money I've ever spent for my back
Hey Guys - What strength bolts did you use where you connected the chain to the engine or just use the factory bolts already there? Which bolts / Where did you connect the chain to the engine?
We used grade 8 bolts on the two front intake bolts and factory bolts in the top of the bell housing.
Thanks!
No, Thank YOU!
Great job Jeff and Cam! I was hoping you’d take that HEI distributor and throw it across the shop! It’s a great distributor, but not on a Ford. Too damn big. It’s like putting a Roman candle on a birthday cake LoL 😂
How about a Borgeson power steering box? The Bendix power steering is just a mess. If I were doing one now I'd try to run the lines from the pump through the fender apron, along the outside of the frame rail, and pop them back through the fender apron right at the box in order to clean things up a little under the hood.
Honestly, not a bad idea.
Hi John, Was wondering if the elect assisted power steering unit be applied to a 67 Mustang? I got to do some research on that one.
have you guys considered a pneumatic ram for your engine hoist? i love mine!
Where did you buy yours FE428? What brand and how much $$ please? Thanks
What was the estimated time in hours did it take to remove engine and also the estimated time to install engine if all went well with no unexpected issues.
Hello, I will be pulling a 1964 FE 390 6.4L from a 64 Galaxie 500 XL. Never done it before! I do know basic stuff. Is a 1 ton hoist, and 1500 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight a safe buy? Just want to make sure it wall handle the weight. Thanks for the video! Any advise is welcome!
Those stupid power steering valves, were they actually designed to NOT leak?? I’ve never seen that, upside it’ll rust proof the under side of the chassis.
Honestly, mine from Chockostang is still running strong. But Phil is one of the best at rebuilding them.
When you disconnect the battery always remove negative cable first and install it last. Less chance of spark....Why do you always make things look harder to do then they actually are?
You definitely need to get rid of the GM type hei disturbtor. If your looking for a hei, get a ford Duraspark, I’m surprised you didn’t remove the radatior and battery, opens a lot more room
Hi Jackie, Didn't Jeff say he was going to a Pertronix? I use the big hunking MSD and it only interferes with one thermostat housing bolt a tad but i use a swivel to get to that, so no problem.
I still use Duraspark with no problems at all.
Just curious. What ever happened with that 65 Ranchero you and your son was working on?
I have a 1966 mustang 289 automatic when I took valve covers off the head said 65 shouldn't it of 66 heads
Shouldn't it said 66 not 65
Made it look easy .. too easy. I've got a 69 MY first engine pull... wish you guys spoke like we are idiots...because most of are 😅
1st...
Boom!
😂😂😂😂