Hi, I just watched the play list of this build and what a fantastic job you did. You overcame the problems along the way and we all learn from our mistakes which we all make. My old boss used to say " If you don't make mistakes you don't do any work" Well done on the build. Best regards..Terry..
You can be proud of yourself! A fantastic result for a job that's not easy. Turning metal myself, I do'nt feel confident to try such a precise work. Congratulations.
Beautiful workmanship, I built one of these back in the early 1960’s, I had access to a Myford Super 7 with milling attachments and a drill press. This was my first venture into machining. I still have the 10 V and the book/plans that came with the castings. Thank you for sharing your projects. Ex Leeds moved south to Tasmania 1968, a smart move in every way. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South. Over the years I have built many big telescopes and big mountings etc. still have two own design observatories on our 5-acre semi-rural property with clear skies. So different to Leeds. 🇬🇧🇦🇺🔭😁
Thanks Shevill - the 10V was a really nice engine to make and it definately helped me develop my machining skills. Tasmania! Sounds fantastic. All the best. Andrew
Many thanks - I'm really pleased you found the vids useful. It's a win win win for me because doing them helps remind me what I did. I also get some great tips from experienced model engineers on how to do it better next time. And lastly, I hope it inspires others to have a go. It would be great to see more young kids getting into the hobby. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew I made it to the end and have a working 10v, machined, painted, assembled and running nicely. I'm definitely hooked and am eyeing up a Stuart No.9 as the next build; need to get approval from the 'Boss' first :) Thanks once again for your excellent videos and help as the techniques I have learnt will help a lot moving forward
Fantastic! Even better that you are now hooked. WARNING - don't try making an IC engine from bar stock because you might get really, really hooked! All the best Andrew
When you paint a trunk guide, roll up a piece of paper and slide it in. Comes out quite easily after the paint is dry. Welldone on the engine another good runner.
What a brilliant series. Thank you for taking the trouble to explain all the steps you took from delivery of the Stuart kit to the final assembly and run on air. I am definitely inspired to have a go myself, but not until I check out your S50 build. Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Umm, that is indeed a good question. Having watched both series I think I will take your advice and try the S50 before the 10V. Before I do so I need to create a shopping list of items that I will need for both projects, namely BA taps and dies, a wiggler, 1,2,3 blocks and an Arc Eurotrade parting blade.
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Thank you Andrew for the best wishes. I will let you know how I get on with the S50. Oh, just thought of something else I will need, a set of Imperial reamers. I guess I should wait until I get the kit to know which imperial tools I need. Happy New Year to you. Andrew
Thanks Kevin - I did find those brass pressings a real challenge. Not sure if it's common for them to be out of shape - or whether I was just unlucky. Cheers. Andrew
Hi Andrew, Nice work it will be lovely when run in which I expect it is by now. My spotting drill set arrived from Amazon today and they seem quite good. I've not tried them yet but I'll let you know how they perform later when I get on with my 10H and 10H. But that will be after I've finished my 16mm scale live steam loco. One tip which you may have discovered by now is when turning parts with a hole or bore which need to be concentric or at 90° to datun faces such as loco wheels, flywheels, cylinders etc is to first make the hole accurately in your component. Now make an expanding mandrel by turning a piece of bar, to a shoulder, at the same diameter as the hole in your component as accurately as you can. Then using the largest Slocomb pattern centre drill you have make a large tapered hole in the end of this bar - as large as you can. Then drill and tap a centre hole, mark No 1 jaw with a centre punch on the larger, original diameter of the bar, remove from chuck and then split it along the turned length - use a hacksaw (or a slitting saw if you want to be posh). Take a suitable socket head allen screw and turn the underside of the head to an included angle of 60° to match the tapered hole you made with the centre drill. Put the new mandrel in the chuck (cente pop to Jaw 1) slide the component on to the mandrel and screw in the cap head set screw, it doesn't need to be too tight and the mandrel will expand and will grip the component tightly. On a cylinder for example, having made the mandrel, fit the casting; face off the top which will be at exactly 90° to the bore; then turn the casting round on the mandrel and repeat for the bottom face. The faces will be guaranteed parallel and at exactly 90° to the axis. I use these expanding mandrels for all sorts of work and keep them when made for future use. For example loco wheels. I need 4 or 6 wheels per loco - I turn, bore and ream a length of bar then part off 6 blanks roughly to size then use my mandrel to mount each wheel for final turning. First one face, turn found and finish the other face, repeat another 5 times = a perfect set of concentric wheels. The component can of course be left on the mandrel, taken out of the lathe and mounted in a chuck an a rotary table on say the milling machine for further operations. Sorry about the length of this messageit's actually taken longer to write than making an expanding mandrel. if it's not clear let me know and I'll put some examples up on a blog. By the way, the mandrel can be a little shorter than the bore of the component as long as the cap screw you chose has a smaller head than the bore, that gives a clear run for a facing tool. Again aplogies for any confusion - I am now very confused!
Hi Terry, many thanks for detailed explanation. I've seen expanding mandrels for sale but they seem very expensive. I will definitely have a go at making one next time I need to hold something by it's bore. Well explained and I think I understand the process. It looks like you must spend your life in the workshop! All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew, I don't get to spend as much time in there as I would like. However I did serve an engineering apprenticeship and spent time in a precision toolroom then changed direction and taught Design and Technology for 35 years after qualifying as a teacher spending much of that time nurturing young people and I must admit inspiring quite a few in the worksdhop environment. I hae no regrets but many good memories, Stay safe, TerrryD
When I worked Hawker Siddeley Dynamics , now part of British Aerospace, a lifetime ago, we made lots of these expanding mandrels for small batch production on our center lathes. Just made one for my Stuart S50 , been working on it for a while , now with lockdown its getting finished ! I have been following your build with interest, thanks for your enthusiasm , its catching !
Well done. It runs beautifully. Thanks very much for sharing the build with us. Re the sheave, I've read that it's good practice when using slotted grub screws to have the slotted part within the threaded hole. Otherwise, half the slotted part can easily break off if tightened too vigorously.
Very nice engine you have made there Andrew, and runs very smooth. Well done! Regarding painting the valve chest cover - paint the recess, then when dry - run a face mill over the whole cover removing a few thou until the 'S' well defined against the painted recess. Cheers Craig
Sweet little engine. A tip for painting the valve chest cover. Paint the recess before you do your final wet dry polish on it . Any paint on the surface will be removed and by folding a piece up you can sand paint off the top of the S in the middle. It’s funny, I assemble an engine starting at the piston and working down the connected parts. When working with engines that require careful alignment like a No1 you are holding things in your hands or on a sandbag that takes gravity out of the equation. You can hold it any way up. And fitting gland packing is way easier if the rod is in the hole. You didn’t show mounting the big end to the crankshaft which is a pain if the sole plate is already fixed down.
Thanks mate. One of my main objectives is to try to encourage others to get into this hobby - so my plan seems to be working! I hope you give it a go. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew Great videos. I am the process of following your series to make my own 10V. Can you please tell me what the other 2 outlets you have on the cylinder in addition to the exhaust? Roger
Thanks Roger. The two outlets are drain cocks. Not really needed on an engine of this size but it adds a little more interest. On larger cylinders it takes a while for them the heat up. In the mean time the steam condenses into water so you need drain cocks to let the water out. I bought mine from a guy in Austria but you can get them in the UK. Not tried these but they look okay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Live-Steam-Engine-Brass-Drain-Cock-3-16-x-40-TPI-ME-Thread-/283040244929?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Hope that helps and good luck with your 10v. Mine runs as sweet as a nut! Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, I've decided to build a Stuart 10V with reversing gear. Love the series and thanks for all the tips and advice. Where could I find a complete good quality set of BA taps and dies or better yet where did you source your taps and dies. Thanks, Jon T.
Hi Jon. I assume you are UK based. All my BA and UNC taps and dies are labelled Apex and I think I got them from Chronos. I try to purchase HSS rather than carbon steel. Another excellent source for HSS taps and dies is modelfixings, however they are quite expensive. Hope that helps. Good luck with the 10V - it's a really nice little engine. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew I'm in the USA. I do want quality BA taps there are some available on Amazon but made in India I do not want to break any taps so I will look into the suppliers you've mentioned. Thanks again I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Chris - maybe something a little larger. The Stuart castings get very expensive for their larger models, so I might consider making something from bar stock. I need to have a look around for some plans and then decide. All the best. Andrew
Hi David. I've lost contact with the guy that made my draincocks. However if you google "model steam pipe fittings" you will find loads of UK suppliers. Good luck! Andrew
Great to see it finished Andrew and running so well. I had the same problem with the piston gland, paint residue in the standard and the 1/8" graphite string in the piston. Apart from the steam chest, I cheated with the studs using Loctite to secure the nuts just below the top of the studs then using them as bolts. This gives an almost perfectly uniform protrusion of the studs above the nut. But don't do that for the studs joining the cylinder to the standard, it makes fitting the gasket really difficult. If the D10 looks feasible (can I fit the soleplate on the lathe) I'm going to abandon graphite string and try O rings. Regards
Hi Len - it's good to see that we both ran into similar problems. Great idea to use loctite for the nuts - I wish I had thought of that. If I was to make another I think I would consider labyrinth grooves for the piston. The D10 looks challenging, but I bet it looks fantastic running. All the best - and good luck with your next project. Andrew
Hi Len - how are you getting on with your Cowells ME? I think I might buy one but would welcome your thoughts on accessories needed. You could always email me at learningturning@btinternet.com for an off-line chat. Cheers Andrew
Thanks Eddie. I think the S50 was easier than the 10V. I found machining the standard on the 10V rather challenging. The s50 just seemed to be an easier build generally. Both are supposed to be good starter engines but I would recommend the S50. Hope that helps. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I built the Gerry's beam Engine (videos on my channel of the build) from bar stock. I have a version of the plans in Metric. I can email them to you if you want a copy. Regards MachineNZ
Hi Kevin - your engine runs really well. I would really appreciate a copy of the plans, so I can see whether I might be able to build one of my own. I don't have any fancy cnc gear but maybe my mini mill might be capable. My email address is: learningturning@btinternet.com Many thanks Andrew
Nicely done. Runs smoothly. Did you mention you had everything oiled up before running? What did you use for the steam chest and cover gaskets? Did you have to adjust the steam chest packing gland to prevent leaks? 👍👍👍
Thanks mate. I did oil everything up including plenty of oil in the input pipe (to lubricate the cylinder and piston). The gland packing nut did need further tightening. I forgot to mention due to my excitement! The gaskets came with the Stuart kit. All the best. Andrew
Andrew. Well done another success. Quick question, is it just an Optical Illusion, or is it now running in a different direction than in the first test run. This can be achieved of course by which setting the can is on when you timed it. Once again another Great Success, keep up your model engineering, much better than woodturning bowls and vases. 😁
Thanks Dave - I got there in the end and it does run really well. I see what you mean about direction - maybe I changed settings at some point. Yeah definately better than turning bowls in a day and then putting them in a box cos there is no more room in the house. All the best. Andrew
Cheers Clive - I'm pretty chuffed with it. Maybe something from bar stock next time, but I need to have a look around for some plans. In the mean time I got a few other mini projects to undertake. All the best. Andrew
Hi Karl - yeah I did oil all moving parts including piston/cylinder. I remember new cars needed to be run in, in the olden days. I guess its not needed now due to the highly accurate engineering employed - just like my little engine - ha ha. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Building engines from ' bar stock ' can be very rewarding and some engines are quite complicated and involved. The good thing is that if u made a mistake then it may not need to cost u an arm and a leg to put it right.
Congrats, it's a super looking engine and a sweet runner too :-) If you want to try it on the hot stuff give me a call and I'd be happy to bring my boiler for a couple of hours.
@@learningturningmetal Any thoughts on adding a reversing link? Given how nice the engine looks and how well it runs I think it would make a great addition.
Thanks mate. I'm very pleased with it. I've just purchased the reverse mechanism, so it should look quite interesting when machined and fitted. All the best. Andrew
Hi, I just watched the play list of this build and what a fantastic job you did. You overcame the problems along the way and we all learn from our mistakes which we all make. My old boss used to say " If you don't make mistakes you don't do any work" Well done on the build. Best regards..Terry..
Thanks Terry
I always appreciate positive feedback.
Cheers
Andrew
Very beautiful engine. Great achievement. Thanks
You can be proud of yourself! A fantastic result for a job that's not easy. Turning metal myself, I do'nt feel confident to try such a precise work. Congratulations.
Beautiful workmanship, I built one of these back in the early 1960’s, I had access to a Myford Super 7 with milling attachments and a drill press. This was my first venture into machining. I still have the 10 V and the book/plans that came with the castings. Thank you for sharing your projects. Ex Leeds moved south to Tasmania 1968, a smart move in every way. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South. Over the years I have built many big telescopes and big mountings etc. still have two own design observatories on our 5-acre semi-rural property with clear skies. So different to Leeds. 🇬🇧🇦🇺🔭😁
Thanks Shevill - the 10V was a really nice engine to make and it definately helped me develop my machining skills. Tasmania! Sounds fantastic.
All the best.
Andrew
Well done Andrew, superb result. Thankyou for an excellent series - very enjoyable watching and learning.
Many thanks - I'm really pleased you found the vids useful. It's a win win win for me because doing them helps remind me what I did. I also get some great tips from experienced model engineers on how to do it better next time. And lastly, I hope it inspires others to have a go. It would be great to see more young kids getting into the hobby.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew I made it to the end and have a working 10v, machined, painted, assembled and running nicely. I'm definitely hooked and am eyeing up a Stuart No.9 as the next build; need to get approval from the 'Boss' first :)
Thanks once again for your excellent videos and help as the techniques I have learnt will help a lot moving forward
Fantastic! Even better that you are now hooked. WARNING - don't try making an IC engine from bar stock because you might get really, really hooked!
All the best
Andrew
When you paint a trunk guide, roll up a piece of paper and slide it in. Comes out quite easily after the paint is dry. Welldone on the engine another good runner.
Ah - a great idea. I wish I had thought of that. Many thanks for the tip.
All the best.
Andrew
What a brilliant series. Thank you for taking the trouble to explain all the steps you took from delivery of the Stuart kit to the final assembly and run on air. I am definitely inspired to have a go myself, but not until I check out your S50 build. Andrew
Now then - 10V or S50? That is the question!
Cheers
Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Umm, that is indeed a good question. Having watched both series I think I will take your advice and try the S50 before the 10V. Before I do so I need to create a shopping list of items that I will need for both projects, namely BA taps and dies, a wiggler, 1,2,3 blocks and an Arc Eurotrade parting blade.
Yeah there is always something else to buy. Don't forget the brass pipe unions!
I hope the S50 works out well.
Cheers
Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Thank you Andrew for the best wishes. I will let you know how I get on with the S50.
Oh, just thought of something else I will need, a set of Imperial reamers.
I guess I should wait until I get the kit to know which imperial tools I need.
Happy New Year to you. Andrew
As smooth as a babies bottom. It is lovely Andrew. A great video series leading to a great result. Thanks for sharing.
great result and great videos you make it feel like we are learning with you thanks
Very nice indeed, Andrew. It runs so smooth and quiet. This was a lot of fun to watch the construction.
Thanks Dave - I got there in the end. All the best.
Andrew
Nice work, so smooth running!
Thanks Daniel - it's runs as sweet as a nut! A really rewarding little engine to make.
All the best.
Andrew
Very nice Andrew. That looks incredible. You have every right to be proud.
Thanks Robert - it took a while but it does seem to run really well.
Cheers.
Andrew
Outstanding another job well done Andrew. I loved it ....Cheers ... Please keep up the great videos!!
Thanks Greg.
All the best.
Andrew
Great job Andrew! Well done for pushing through all the awkward bits!!
Thanks Kevin - I did find those brass pressings a real challenge. Not sure if it's common for them to be out of shape - or whether I was just unlucky.
Cheers.
Andrew
Good job Andrew. Looks grand.
Thanks mate - It turned out better than I imagined.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal It really looks the part and seems to run very well. Excellent job.
Hi Andrew,
Nice work it will be lovely when run in which I expect it is by now. My spotting drill set arrived from Amazon today and they seem quite good. I've not tried them yet but I'll let you know how they perform later when I get on with my 10H and 10H. But that will be after I've finished my 16mm scale live steam loco.
One tip which you may have discovered by now is when turning parts with a hole or bore which need to be concentric or at 90° to datun faces such as loco wheels, flywheels, cylinders etc is to first make the hole accurately in your component. Now make an expanding mandrel by turning a piece of bar, to a shoulder, at the same diameter as the hole in your component as accurately as you can. Then using the largest Slocomb pattern centre drill you have make a large tapered hole in the end of this bar - as large as you can. Then drill and tap a centre hole, mark No 1 jaw with a centre punch on the larger, original diameter of the bar, remove from chuck and then split it along the turned length - use a hacksaw (or a slitting saw if you want to be posh). Take a suitable socket head allen screw and turn the underside of the head to an included angle of 60° to match the tapered hole you made with the centre drill. Put the new mandrel in the chuck (cente pop to Jaw 1) slide the component on to the mandrel and screw in the cap head set screw, it doesn't need to be too tight and the mandrel will expand and will grip the component tightly.
On a cylinder for example, having made the mandrel, fit the casting; face off the top which will be at exactly 90° to the bore; then turn the casting round on the mandrel and repeat for the bottom face. The faces will be guaranteed parallel and at exactly 90° to the axis. I use these expanding mandrels for all sorts of work and keep them when made for future use. For example loco wheels. I need 4 or 6 wheels per loco - I turn, bore and ream a length of bar then part off 6 blanks roughly to size then use my mandrel to mount each wheel for final turning. First one face, turn found and finish the other face, repeat another 5 times = a perfect set of concentric wheels. The component can of course be left on the mandrel, taken out of the lathe and mounted in a chuck an a rotary table on say the milling machine for further operations.
Sorry about the length of this messageit's actually taken longer to write than making an expanding mandrel. if it's not clear let me know and I'll put some examples up on a blog. By the way, the mandrel can be a little shorter than the bore of the component as long as the cap screw you chose has a smaller head than the bore, that gives a clear run for a facing tool. Again aplogies for any confusion - I am now very confused!
Hi Terry, many thanks for detailed explanation. I've seen expanding mandrels for sale but they seem very expensive. I will definitely have a go at making one next time I need to hold something by it's bore. Well explained and I think I understand the process.
It looks like you must spend your life in the workshop!
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal
Hi Andrew,
I don't get to spend as much time in there as I would like. However I did serve an engineering apprenticeship and spent time in a precision toolroom then changed direction and taught Design and Technology for 35 years after qualifying as a teacher spending much of that time nurturing young people and I must admit inspiring quite a few in the worksdhop environment. I hae no regrets but many good memories,
Stay safe,
TerrryD
When I worked Hawker Siddeley Dynamics , now part of British Aerospace, a lifetime ago, we made lots of these expanding mandrels for small batch production on our center lathes. Just made one for my Stuart S50 , been working on it for a while , now with lockdown its getting finished ! I have been following your build with interest, thanks for your enthusiasm , its catching !
Exceptional job! Looks and runs awesome!
Well done. It runs beautifully. Thanks very much for sharing the build with us.
Re the sheave, I've read that it's good practice when using slotted grub screws to have the slotted part within the threaded hole. Otherwise, half the slotted part can easily break off if tightened too vigorously.
That looks and sounds great Andrew, well done
Regards John
Thanks John!
Nice job
Very nice engine you have made there Andrew, and runs very smooth. Well done! Regarding painting the valve chest cover - paint the recess, then when dry - run a face mill over the whole cover removing a few thou until the 'S' well defined against the painted recess.
Cheers Craig
Hi Craig - what a fantastic idea. Looks like my next little job.
Cheers
Andrew
or rub on coare wet and dry on a flat surface.
Just ordered a 10v kit, hoping to build with just my lathe, can't afford a Mill atm, but your videos have inspired me to give it a go
Great stuff. Personally I would have struggled without a mill but I know others do manage without one. Good luck and have fun!
Cheers
Andrew
Sweet little engine.
A tip for painting the valve chest cover. Paint the recess before you do your final wet dry polish on it . Any paint on the surface will be removed and by folding a piece up you can sand paint off the top of the S in the middle.
It’s funny, I assemble an engine starting at the piston and working down the connected parts. When working with engines that require careful alignment like a No1 you are holding things in your hands or on a sandbag that takes gravity out of the equation. You can hold it any way up. And fitting gland packing is way easier if the rod is in the hole. You didn’t show mounting the big end to the crankshaft which is a pain if the sole plate is already fixed down.
Great work! Im inspired to get a lathe and milling machine 👍
Thanks mate. One of my main objectives is to try to encourage others to get into this hobby - so my plan seems to be working!
I hope you give it a go.
Cheers
Andrew
Looks great!
Cheers Stephen!
Hi Andrew
Great videos. I am the process of following your series to make my own 10V. Can you please tell me what the other 2 outlets you have on the cylinder in addition to the exhaust?
Roger
Thanks Roger. The two outlets are drain cocks. Not really needed on an engine of this size but it adds a little more interest. On larger cylinders it takes a while for them the heat up. In the mean time the steam condenses into water so you need drain cocks to let the water out. I bought mine from a guy in Austria but you can get them in the UK. Not tried these but they look okay:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Live-Steam-Engine-Brass-Drain-Cock-3-16-x-40-TPI-ME-Thread-/283040244929?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Hope that helps and good luck with your 10v. Mine runs as sweet as a nut!
Cheers
Andrew
Nice job!!
Thanks Tom - All the best.
Hi Andrew, I've decided to build a Stuart 10V with reversing gear. Love the series and thanks for all the tips and advice. Where could I find a complete good quality set of BA taps and dies or better yet where did you source your taps and dies. Thanks, Jon T.
Hi Jon. I assume you are UK based. All my BA and UNC taps and dies are labelled Apex and I think I got them from Chronos. I try to purchase HSS rather than carbon steel. Another excellent source for HSS taps and dies is modelfixings, however they are quite expensive. Hope that helps. Good luck with the 10V - it's a really nice little engine.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Hi Andrew I'm in the USA. I do want quality BA taps there are some available on Amazon but made in India I do not want to break any taps so I will look into the suppliers you've mentioned. Thanks again I really enjoy your videos.
Looking good, you can't stop there so what's next?
Thanks Chris - maybe something a little larger. The Stuart castings get very expensive for their larger models, so I might consider making something from bar stock.
I need to have a look around for some plans and then decide.
All the best.
Andrew
Nice job Andrew hope you remebered to squirt a little oil into the air line now and again when running on air.
Yeah I did - but I nearly forgot!
Cheers.
Andrew
Do you know where I can get the brass water taps and brass fittings?
Hi David. I've lost contact with the guy that made my draincocks. However if you google "model steam pipe fittings" you will find loads of UK suppliers.
Good luck!
Andrew
Great to see it finished Andrew and running so well. I had the same problem with the piston gland, paint residue in the standard and the 1/8" graphite string in the piston. Apart from the steam chest, I cheated with the studs using Loctite to secure the nuts just below the top of the studs then using them as bolts. This gives an almost perfectly uniform protrusion of the studs above the nut. But don't do that for the studs joining the cylinder to the standard, it makes fitting the gasket really difficult. If the D10 looks feasible (can I fit the soleplate on the lathe) I'm going to abandon graphite string and try O rings. Regards
Hi Len - it's good to see that we both ran into similar problems. Great idea to use loctite for the nuts - I wish I had thought of that. If I was to make another I think I would consider labyrinth grooves for the piston. The D10 looks challenging, but I bet it looks fantastic running.
All the best - and good luck with your next project.
Andrew
Hi Len - how are you getting on with your Cowells ME? I think I might buy one but would welcome your thoughts on accessories needed. You could always email me at learningturning@btinternet.com for an off-line chat.
Cheers
Andrew
Great stuff Andrew. If you were to recommend a casting kit for beginners, would it be the S50 or 10V?
Thanks Eddie. I think the S50 was easier than the 10V. I found machining the standard on the 10V rather challenging. The s50 just seemed to be an easier build generally.
Both are supposed to be good starter engines but I would recommend the S50.
Hope that helps.
Andrew
Hi Andrew. Engine looks great. Nice and smooth running. What's your next project going to be? Regards MachineNZ
Cheers mate! Maybe something from bar stock. I need to have a look around for some plans first.
Have a great day!
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I built the Gerry's beam Engine (videos on my channel of the build) from bar stock. I have a version of the plans in Metric. I can email them to you if you want a copy. Regards MachineNZ
Hi Kevin - your engine runs really well. I would really appreciate a copy of the plans, so I can see whether I might be able to build one of my own. I don't have any fancy cnc gear but maybe my mini mill might be capable. My email address is: learningturning@btinternet.com
Many thanks
Andrew
Nicely done. Runs smoothly. Did you mention you had everything oiled up before running? What did you use for the steam chest and cover gaskets? Did you have to adjust the steam chest packing gland to prevent leaks? 👍👍👍
Thanks mate. I did oil everything up including plenty of oil in the input pipe (to lubricate the cylinder and piston). The gland packing nut did need further tightening. I forgot to mention due to my excitement! The gaskets came with the Stuart kit.
All the best.
Andrew
Andrew. Well done another success. Quick question, is it just an Optical Illusion, or is it now running in a different direction than in the first test run. This can be achieved of course by which setting the can is on when you timed it. Once again another Great Success, keep up your model engineering, much better than woodturning bowls and vases. 😁
Thanks Dave - I got there in the end and it does run really well. I see what you mean about direction - maybe I changed settings at some point. Yeah definately better than turning bowls in a day and then putting them in a box cos there is no more room in the house.
All the best.
Andrew
Yep, over the moon...!
Looks and sounds great Andrew! What will you next project be? 🤓👍
Cheers Clive - I'm pretty chuffed with it. Maybe something from bar stock next time, but I need to have a look around for some plans. In the mean time I got a few other mini projects to undertake.
All the best.
Andrew
Job well done! Will it run on lung power?
Thanks! It's pretty smooth but it won't run on my lung power without me blowing a gasket.
Cheers
Andrew
Great engine, but what about some oil and run it in properly, hate to see it seize.
Hi Karl - yeah I did oil all moving parts including piston/cylinder. I remember new cars needed to be run in, in the olden days. I guess its not needed now due to the highly accurate engineering employed - just like my little engine - ha ha.
All the best.
Andrew
Keith Appleton has a whole vid of how to run in a new engine.
Great job!
Next job: Scratch built steam powered lathe... or am I being a bit optimistic?
Ha ha - yep I would say that is a little optimistic! I need to have a long think, but probably something from bar stock.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Building engines from ' bar stock ' can be very rewarding and some engines are quite complicated and involved. The good thing is that if u made a mistake then it may not need to cost u an arm and a leg to put it right.
Congrats, it's a super looking engine and a sweet runner too :-) If you want to try it on the hot stuff give me a call and I'd be happy to bring my boiler for a couple of hours.
Thanks Peter - It would be good to see how well it runs on steam. I will definately give you a call.
Cheers.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Any thoughts on adding a reversing link? Given how nice the engine looks and how well it runs I think it would make a great addition.
Yeah, I did check the stuart kit out a couple of weeks ago. Not too expensive either. Maybe some day!
Any U.S. viewers find a source for a similar paint?
I hope you get some good replies.
Cheers
Andrew
I thot that noise was pidgeons
Nice job!
Thanks mate. I'm very pleased with it. I've just purchased the reverse mechanism, so it should look quite interesting when machined and fitted.
All the best.
Andrew