@@gentlemansgazette. I bought my first pair of good dress shoes from TLB Mallorca and I love them… great recommendations thanks . Now I want to purchase some oxblood dress shoes which brands carry some oxblood . What a jut J. Fitzpatrick?
Great video. But I would just like to say, Fantastic for having Nomos as a sponsor! What a classic brand with heritage and quality in the horology world!
I know no one asked, but here's my two cents and ratings on the brands on this list that I personally own pairs of. Rating takes value into account Ace Marks (1 oxford, 1 loafer) Overall Rating: A/B +beautiful patinas +patina helps hide any creases +nice last +very comfortable once broken in +they accidentally listed cotton shoe bags for free one time, I ordered 20 of them, and they didn't cancel the order. 10/10 good sport +mystery box -initially stiff -soles looked gouged after a few wears (I work in an office with porcelain floors and I only walk on pavement from house>car>office) -limited styles -fairly long break-in -very narrow toebox (style is pain) Beckett Simonon (1 monk, 1 oxford, 1 chelsea) Overall Rating: C/D +extremely comfortable out of the box +little to no break in +I personally love their last +deceptively wide toebox +the soles hold up nearly as well as my Velascas (which are very, very good) +very soft, supple uppers +vast catalog with some cool unique styles +good customer service +they walk you through the build process month by month and it really personalizes the experience -QC could be better. I personally had very minimal issues, but the fact that issues are to be expected is not good. They should rebrand as "Just Factory Seconds" -severe creasing after a couple of hours. I have shoes with dozens of wears that don't crease nearly as bad as any of my BSs after one wear -lead time is awful for shoes that are usually flawed -colors look drastically different in person than on their website (in my opinion) Meermin: (3 oxfords, 1 loafer, 1 monk, 1 chukka) Overall Rating: A +nice leathers +classic styles +elegant lasts that aren't overly narrow +fairly quick break-in +their seconds slap hard. Couldn't find what the flaws were on two pairs of seconds +gives you a detailed breakdown of the construction and materials of each shoe -leather is a bit stiff out of the box -limited styles but they cover all the basics and have a few unique styles too -narrow toe box but not an issue after they're broken in Taft: (1 pair, brown Rome boots) Overall Rating: F +looks awesome in the picture, and even better in person +very light weight +you can wear them with jeans and a t-shirt or with a blazer +extremely unique designs -leather is ridiculously stiff. So stiff that after several wears, they still dig into my calves -extremely uncomfortable, feels like I have a thin piece of leather between my feet and the ground -leather feels extremely thin. I know it's a dressier style boot but all my other dress boots and shoes feel thicker -tons of QC issues. Heel isn't flat with the sole so there's an awful high point, there's a large wrinkle in the insole, gaps between the welt and upper, there's so many issues I can't name them all, -overall fit and finish is extremely sloppy and unacceptable for the prrice Velasca: (1 suede derby) Overall Rating: S +literally the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn, including sneakers +little to no break-in +leather soles are ridiculously durable and still feel very smooth after 2 dozen wears +extremely wide variety -many of their lasts are very bulbous -they just released velcro shoes and they don't even light up Thursday Boots: (3 low top "dress" sneakers, 2 boots) Overall Rating: C +extremely comfortable +nice minimalist "dress" sneaker +I'm not sure what else to say, it's just a really good sneaker +there are no cons for the sneakers +awesome customer service -boot sizing seems inconsistent. An 8D on one boot is really tight, and the other is comically large -apparently they have issues with consistency but they make up for it with good service
Velasca is funny, most of their stuff isn't even Goodyear welted and they seem to be using polished leather of unknown origin on their GYW line. Not saying evey leather from major tanneries is world class but it's about transparency, Septieme Largeur only use du Puy, d'Annonay and Weiheimer, I've only tried the black calf and it's off the charts good.
@@toobalkain I think what makes me like velasca so much other than just getting one pair of really awesome shoes is the super fast shipping, I love the website, their photos are great and offer outfit inspo, and it sort of comes off as a lifestyle brand. Maybe they just have really good marketing but I think they did a good job of selling the Italian style and lifestyle despite their lasts not mirroring other Italian lasts. It’s entirely possible that they just make a slightly above average, but I personally love them and plan to buy 2 more pairs for the summer. This is similar to Beckett Simonon but I was much harsher with my rating because the end result is a pretty subpar product. For $20-40 more you can get the same style shoes that are superior in every way
@@TheAestheticGod they’ll usually have sales at the end of a season and sometimes they have dedicated seconds sales. It’s important to note that new releases don’t go on sale, learned that the hard way when they released horsebit loafers
Two things often not discussed but of importance to some are 1) Storm Welted options. In urban/wet/snowy locations its nice to have this option. Surprisingly many boot makers don't offer this on most lines. 2) TSA precheck and security. No one wants to take off their shoes at the airport, or in a secure building. Allen Edmonds is one of the few makers who uses non metal shanks. Some of the English brands do as well. Most manufacturers will not even mention what type of shank they use (wood, fiberglass, or metal). Of interest these days are cobblers who can recraft a shoe with fiberglass for frequent flyers.
Good topic and video! You all just helped reaffirm my interest in J. Fitzpatrick, and CNES, while supporting my suspicions about a few in the D to F range.
I have a few Beckett Simonon. They are affordable, and I have found the materials to be very good quality. I think I have a brogue wingtip, a sneaker, and a while cut. I like all of them. No imperfections
Lol. Herring shoes are made by Loake and Barker factories but they rated Herring higher than Loake and Barker 😂 And Cheaney at C+ makes me think these guys are just inventing their stuff up.
I live less than an hour from the Allen Edmonds factory, if you can make the trip their seconds are a great deal! I have two pairs of boots from there that I love (brown wingtip, black Chelsea). Haven’t expanded my dress shoe horizon yet, finding the right size without being able to try things on is a real pain
My preferred shoes : Under $500 a wonderful pair of Cheaney bluchers in cognac and pebble grain. Over $500 a awesome pair of Church's full brogue in Havanna brown Formal black AE Fifth Ave quarter brogues
The coin shaped case that Sven mentions is an adaptation of the first wrist watches, when straight lugs were soldered on to pocket watches. It became a design motive and is still utilized in modern wrist watch design.
Have two pairs of the Herring Handgrade line which is Carlos Santos Handgrade and they are absolutely beautiful shoes. Gotten several compliments on them.
BlackBird Shoemaker is also an amazing handwelted brand which is up-and-coming from India. Their team is super responsive, and they’ve got some gorgeous leathers and great sole work.
Thank you for the thorough rating at this price rung! I have 3 pairs of Meermin's, and have had mixed results. The two pairs of boots from their main line have the same weak point: bad upper thread stitching. I've had them both repaired and both need repair again. I also have a pair of their Linea Maestro black cap toe Oxfords and those have been great! They feel better every time I wear them and are the nicest shoes I've ever bought.
I'm South African and I've been looking for a dress shoe well a boot in particular and Herringshoes really impressed me and your review gave more confidence in investing to buy from them.🙏
As someone who lives in the UK currently I'm finding it hard to justify spending more on a Northampton shoe than some of the great shoes coming out of Spain & Portugal, and increasingly Asia. Especially at this price point
The American "Samuel Hubbard shoes" are wonderful. they are comfortable from the very first step and you don't want to take them off. They are made in Portugal with the finest leather from Italy. I can only recommend these shoes.
I opened them, theyre top of the line value shoes. I think with Yearn youre just getting the top of the line shoe for as cheap as it can be. The sole options and leather just make it superior to me over Gizano Girling. Especially at my age when value is just far more important.
Hi! Thought I would try and help with some video ideas. If you haven’t already, I would love to see a video on Raphael’s black tie outfit collection with all the dinner jackets, dinner suits and accessories, like the videos on tie, bow tie and shoe collections. Cheers!
Theres a neat brand named sons of henrey that sells unique leather shoes for a decent price and made in spain, i think they retail handwelted shoes made in china with a brand called Oct. 10th as well :)
I have Loake boots. They're absolutely amazing; perfect balance between elegant, formal and masculine. These seem FAR BETTER than something like a Aurelien, which is like a cheap Instagram brand if you ask me. I also own Carlos Santos. The Loake's are DEFINITELY better quality and more refined in my eyes. However, I've had my Carlos Santos for 7+ years, worn them as my daily dress shoe for work, and although no longer "like new" they're still my solid go-to. So have to speak highly of them too. But the Loake's are better than a C for sure.
Good video. Y'all's hate for SuitSupply is intense 😂. I get their custom line all the time. I love the experience there and they can do most of what i like. And i am not a slim fit kind of guy. I generally get 1930's style suits and SS is able to fill that order quite well.
1930s style suits? Yes, you’ve got style.👍. I’m fed up seeing the modern suit trend of hirpling about in girly-tight trousers, showing off their little white ankle socks.
If you are happy with them, great! I find their sleeves to be super tight, and I would definitely not describe any of their styles as 1930s but each to his own.
@@gentlemansgazette I wish I could reply with a photo. Their custom program really is different than their OTR stuff. Is there an email I can send some examples to?
Lucky enough to live in Singapore and have access to CNES' amazing showroom where I can try on each of their different models to see if the lasts fit. They also have amazing deals to clear older stock. I got a black suede double monk good year welted for about 100 USD half price. If you live in Singapore, little reason to buy shoes from anywhere else if you want big value. Their shoes are made in Vietnam, which has relatively cheaper labour costs.
I have several of these. I’ve been very happy with Ace Marks. Thursday Boots are a waste - solid materials but they fall apart quickly. They are marketed as Goodyear welted, but they were cleared glued with no welt.
Great video as always. I wonder what your opinion on Mephisto shoes are? A lot of their shoes are Goodyear welted, and while they are quite old-fashioned in their look, are supremely comfortable. A French company with German themes
Thanks for this video. Your guides have been extremely helpful. I recently picked up a pair of brown Yanko double monks and oxblood Vero Cuio brogued oxfords. I’m curious to know your take on Moreschi shoes by the way. I own a pair of their brown oxfords.
I purchased a pair of oxfords from TLB Mallorca and I love them so far . I’m not sure what other brands I might try out Maybe thinking J. Fitzpatrick. CNEs,, Carmina . And maybe Bridlen . But not sure which ones to many good choices
Fugashin shoes are well with in this range and fantastic (imo). Donegan isn't bad either. I do need to try Michael Darren shoes. They are in this range, seen them and they look beautiful.
A couple of additional companies in that price range worth taking a look at-Berwick 1707, Fugashin, NPS, and Malfroid. I’m not sure whether Ed et Al is still around, but they made some very nice value shoes.
As someone who has purchased Thursday boots they are very good especially for what you pay for, so if you want a nice Goodyear welted dress shoe without breaking the bank(like at all) then I would highly recommend trying them out, in fact I’m wearing some shoes from them right now!
@@gentlemansgazette I definitely agree that the last is not refined, but my experience has still been great, and I usually buy them on sale so the price point is around 130 for a pair. I definitely am planning on trying out some of the other brands as well to find what works best, but my experience with them has overall been positive
I think good for the price is accurate. I didn't find them comfortable long term compared to other more expensive brands. I resoled with a JR leather sole and I find it much more comfortable.
I’ve got a rubber-sole boot and a double monk leather-sole from Thursday. HIGHLY recommend!! Very comfortable, great leather and both soles are wearing great.
Great video! I enjoy my pair of Thursday executives. They're quite comfortable, reasonably good leather, and a good price for the product. The "chiseled" toeshape was a bit odd to me at first, but they've grown on me!
I have seen Thursday boots in person, and we have several on the list that look a lot better. I just haven't worn Thursday boots for extended periods of time yet, hence no rating
For me, my best/favorites are Wolverine 1,000 Mile boots; Loake 1880 Bedale Tan wingtip boots; Sperry Bellingham tan/linen Gold Cup; and the ones that get compliments every single time I wear them: Lethalto blue suede/leather wingtip brogues.
I would love to see you guys make a video about vintage spade sole shoes. Exploring the history, purpose, and styling of the "spade" would be very interesting.
I think you messed up some phrasing in noting Beckett Simonon - they’re Blake stitched. I find mine very comfortable, but a good deal for my case. I got them in a model I typically don’t wear much, a black brogued derby shoe for semi-casual wear and easy grey trouser fits 😀 Still love my vintage pieces better!
I worked at a small town men’s store in the late 80s as my first job. We sold Florsheim shoes. At the time the Imperial line was still a great shoe. The rest of the line was moving toward glued on molded soles. It’s sad to see that their decline is complete. Another great American brand lost.
In need of a "serious" pair of shoes in the 80's, I bought a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperial shell cordovan loafers, their top of the line. Could not believe a shoe could feel that good. I still have them, and they continue to be incredibly comfortable, timeless shoes.
I have 15 pairs of Allen Edmonds from the 1990’s - 2003. Since they have been purchased by another company, are you saying the quality has greatly decreased? Thank you
Good topic and video! I am curious to hear feedback about Spier & Mackay shoes, if anyone has experience. I like their shirts and the shoes look nice online. It would also be interesting to include Stacy Adams, Steve Madden, or Aldo, to name a few popular brands often found in shopping malls. They are perceived by many people to be high end shoe brands, along with Cole Haan and some others that ended up in your D to F range.
Has there been updates to include Morjas. I’m looking at either the SEPTIEME or Morjas loafers. Both a classic calf skin and dark brown suede. Like the designs of Morjas better, but curious about material and longevity. Also considering Grant Stone for both.
I respect the insights very helpful. Sadly my Sanborn color Cap toe Oxfords are Johnston and Murphy so I'm hoping they'll last otherwise I'll try to save up a bit more next time.
@@gjs9871 Mine are still pretty new so I'll definitely give them a chance despite the failed ranking on here. I can't afford Allen Edmonds so I have to do the best I can budget wise but as long as they can last 5-10 years hopefully it'll have been worth the purchase. They'll mostly be for Church anyway so it's not like I'll wear them out quickly. Are yours also Cap Toe or another variety? I appreciate your response. It's also nice when GG acknowledge all comments but I understand that sometimes they're quite busy. As a gentleman in his 30's I always value all the info to continue improving my wardrobe. Hope you're enjoying your weekend kind sir.
I was wondering what you thought about the Indian-made shoe brands that certainly fit your price criteria. I own pairs from 3DM Lifestyle, Lethato, and Rawls. Not sure I would buy Lethato again since they are slightly oversized and a bit "clunky" but the other two brands are a perfect fit for my US 13M (UK 12) size and are extremely comfortable. Going Italian, I am an Ace Marks fan since the shoes fit me perfectly (as they do you apparently) but I only purchase from their "Factory Access" event which offers exclusive limited designs held once a year for a short time window. So my Ace Marks shoes are unique. Ace Marks also offers shoe trees matching their Last which is a big plus for me. Love your channel, Thank you.
I have had a good run with Beckett Simonon. It's unfortunate you guys didn't have a good experience with them. I find them high quality and very quality. Maybe I just don't know any better. Interested to look into J Fitzpatrick
Great video! Thanks so much for your sharing your insight. I wear a size 15D on a Brannock device. Can you share manufacturers that offer larger sizes at this price point (other than Allen Edmonds)? Thanks!
I have a pair of CU Richard black calf captoe oxfords and they're very nice. The quilted insole has started to peel up on one shoe, though. My biggest complaint is the closed channel outsole. It looks beautiful of course but it started to peel off on the toe of my right shoe pretty quickly. I'll probably have to get them repaired with toe plates. I see that they have gone to open channel soles on their current models, which is a good move.
i got some unlined meermin penny loafers for the summer. They are great, though it did take a while just to expand the leather so i could slip my foot in and out. gotta break them in a bit, even with no inner lining
How is Tod's, the Italian maker of mens shoes, not on this list? What do you think gentlemen? I own four pairs and they are fashionable and well made. They are expensive so I buy them on clearance at the outlet center or on line.
Strongly disagree with labeling Johnston and Murphy “garbage”. Yes, they’re not what they used to be, BUT, they still carry a few decent models at very reasonable prices. Believe me, I’m very particular about dress shoes, and I’m quite happy with my recent purchase of black half brouges at around $165 (you can purchase them for less on sale). All leather, nice last, very comfortable. Also, they sell some good city sneakers. Besides, they’re also a clothing brand with a good selection of casual cotton pants.
Most Shoes on their website between $150-200 when filtered are strange sneaker hybrids. The few dress shoes that are on there have clunky lasts and glued soles.
@@gentlemansgazette They do carry a number of models are that Goodyear welted and have good lasts (not clunky and not too fashion-forward). I agree that they’re just a shadow of their former self, but I would abstain from labeling everything they offer “garbage”. When I was a starving student I bought a pair of their melton oxfords. That was about 12 years ago. I still wear them! They’ve been resoled multiple times. They already have holes on the inside after being worn so many years. Super comfortable and as classic as it can be - a black cap toe Oxford. Speaking of Goodyear welt - the benefit of it is that you can resole the shoes. However, Goodyear welted shoes tend to be heavy and not necessarily comfortable. Blake stitch and cemented construction are usually lighter and more comfortable and are actually a traditional Italian method. Goodyear welt is a British tradition.
I had been looking at Cole Haan and Florsheim just out of convenience. Ended up writing both off as neither offered wides (or the triple wides Allen Edmonds sold me.) Lack of wides is increasingly a major issue for me with many brands. Johnston & Murphy also got the axe, as their 'dual-width' setup didn't go quite wide enough.
Greetings. I've been watching your videos for some time now and really appreciate the information you share with us. I have a question related to this video. Are you familiar with Finsbury shoes? If so, what is your opinion on them?
List is scored perfectly with exception to Magnanni I would prefer you try one and not have Ranked them. Buy from them directly and re-Score them. Other than that Great job on the scores 👏
Quick comment on Barker. They are absolutely not worth the price. They are priced around £50-100 more than Loake, yet the quality is slightly poorer. When comparing a Barker to a similar Loake shoe, I noticed that the stitching on the upper was slightly inconsistent, the leather seemed overall a poorer quality. Not to mention the finishing on the welt and soles seemed incomplete. For those of you based in the UK who are after a good starting pair of shoes, look towards the Loake 1880 line. For under £300 you’re getting a handmade shoe that is made in Kettering Northampton. For the price point, I am yet to find a better shoe that is as widely available in physical stores. Do keep in mind that the styles are limited and the aesthetic is very Classic and British. But for most applications this means they are very versatile. I would like to state also that I am not affiliated or employed with Loake in any way - just my honest review :)
I completely disagree on almost all counts. I have two pairs of Barker brogues that I got for about £100 less than the one pair of Loakes I have (OK, they were on sale, but if not they would have been the same price, and they are also made of good quality calf leather in Nothamptonshire). The quality is exactly the same, and more importantly the Barkers are comfortable. That's because Barker offer a wide range of lasts and widths, unlike the very restricted offerings from Loake. My Loakes are the most ill-fitting and uncomfortable shoes I have ever owned, because they basically don't make any shoes that are foot-shaped.
these customizable made to order shoes looks awesome. choosing your color, style and laces right from the get go. wow. many a times I like a shoe but there are these small details which can't be ignored.
Regarding "chunky" lasts (as mentioned in the AE section, isn't that just a style differences between American and European styles? Alden is similar. Seems somewhat subjective.
Of course, everyone can choose what last they like. If you look at the best bespoke shoemakers and what they create, the lasts are always more refined. If you are happy with the AE look, go for it. We believe other brands are better value for style and quality, but as you can see in our cut apart video, AE is a solid shoe. There are just better brands out there, in our opinion.
The cheesy puns and dad jokes make (and keep) this channel a fun and welcoming place to return to every week.
Glad to hear that!
@@gentlemansgazette. I bought my first pair of good dress shoes from TLB Mallorca and I love them… great recommendations thanks . Now I want to purchase some oxblood dress shoes which brands carry some oxblood . What a jut J. Fitzpatrick?
Great video. But I would just like to say,
Fantastic for having Nomos as a sponsor! What a classic brand with heritage and quality in the horology world!
I know no one asked, but here's my two cents and ratings on the brands on this list that I personally own pairs of. Rating takes value into account
Ace Marks (1 oxford, 1 loafer)
Overall Rating: A/B
+beautiful patinas
+patina helps hide any creases
+nice last
+very comfortable once broken in
+they accidentally listed cotton shoe bags for free one time, I ordered 20 of them, and they didn't cancel the order. 10/10 good sport
+mystery box
-initially stiff
-soles looked gouged after a few wears (I work in an office with porcelain floors and I only walk on pavement from house>car>office)
-limited styles
-fairly long break-in
-very narrow toebox (style is pain)
Beckett Simonon (1 monk, 1 oxford, 1 chelsea)
Overall Rating: C/D
+extremely comfortable out of the box
+little to no break in
+I personally love their last
+deceptively wide toebox
+the soles hold up nearly as well as my Velascas (which are very, very good)
+very soft, supple uppers
+vast catalog with some cool unique styles
+good customer service
+they walk you through the build process month by month and it really personalizes the experience
-QC could be better. I personally had very minimal issues, but the fact that issues are to be expected is not good. They should rebrand as "Just Factory Seconds"
-severe creasing after a couple of hours. I have shoes with dozens of wears that don't crease nearly as bad as any of my BSs after one wear
-lead time is awful for shoes that are usually flawed
-colors look drastically different in person than on their website (in my opinion)
Meermin: (3 oxfords, 1 loafer, 1 monk, 1 chukka)
Overall Rating: A
+nice leathers
+classic styles
+elegant lasts that aren't overly narrow
+fairly quick break-in
+their seconds slap hard. Couldn't find what the flaws were on two pairs of seconds
+gives you a detailed breakdown of the construction and materials of each shoe
-leather is a bit stiff out of the box
-limited styles but they cover all the basics and have a few unique styles too
-narrow toe box but not an issue after they're broken in
Taft: (1 pair, brown Rome boots)
Overall Rating: F
+looks awesome in the picture, and even better in person
+very light weight
+you can wear them with jeans and a t-shirt or with a blazer
+extremely unique designs
-leather is ridiculously stiff. So stiff that after several wears, they still dig into my calves
-extremely uncomfortable, feels like I have a thin piece of leather between my feet and the ground
-leather feels extremely thin. I know it's a dressier style boot but all my other dress boots and shoes feel thicker
-tons of QC issues. Heel isn't flat with the sole so there's an awful high point, there's a large wrinkle in the insole, gaps between the welt and upper, there's so many issues I can't name them all,
-overall fit and finish is extremely sloppy and unacceptable for the prrice
Velasca: (1 suede derby)
Overall Rating: S
+literally the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn, including sneakers
+little to no break-in
+leather soles are ridiculously durable and still feel very smooth after 2 dozen wears
+extremely wide variety
-many of their lasts are very bulbous
-they just released velcro shoes and they don't even light up
Thursday Boots: (3 low top "dress" sneakers, 2 boots)
Overall Rating: C
+extremely comfortable
+nice minimalist "dress" sneaker
+I'm not sure what else to say, it's just a really good sneaker
+there are no cons for the sneakers
+awesome customer service
-boot sizing seems inconsistent. An 8D on one boot is really tight, and the other is comically large
-apparently they have issues with consistency but they make up for it with good service
Velasca is funny, most of their stuff isn't even Goodyear welted and they seem to be using polished leather of unknown origin on their GYW line. Not saying evey leather from major tanneries is world class but it's about transparency, Septieme Largeur only use du Puy, d'Annonay and Weiheimer, I've only tried the black calf and it's off the charts good.
@@toobalkain I think what makes me like velasca so much other than just getting one pair of really awesome shoes is the super fast shipping, I love the website, their photos are great and offer outfit inspo, and it sort of comes off as a lifestyle brand. Maybe they just have really good marketing but I think they did a good job of selling the Italian style and lifestyle despite their lasts not mirroring other Italian lasts. It’s entirely possible that they just make a slightly above average, but I personally love them and plan to buy 2 more pairs for the summer.
This is similar to Beckett Simonon but I was much harsher with my rating because the end result is a pretty subpar product. For $20-40 more you can get the same style shoes that are superior in every way
respect for the amount of time and testing this took.
How do you order meermin seconds these days? i remember there used to be a obscure ebay page that was actually run by the company?
@@TheAestheticGod they’ll usually have sales at the end of a season and sometimes they have dedicated seconds sales. It’s important to note that new releases don’t go on sale, learned that the hard way when they released horsebit loafers
I have to give you credits on the sponsorship! No cheap rip-offs sold as luxury, you kept it quality, well done!
Two things often not discussed but of importance to some are 1) Storm Welted options. In urban/wet/snowy locations its nice to have this option. Surprisingly many boot makers don't offer this on most lines. 2) TSA precheck and security. No one wants to take off their shoes at the airport, or in a secure building. Allen Edmonds is one of the few makers who uses non metal shanks. Some of the English brands do as well. Most manufacturers will not even mention what type of shank they use (wood, fiberglass, or metal). Of interest these days are cobblers who can recraft a shoe with fiberglass for frequent flyers.
Good topic and video! You all just helped reaffirm my interest in J. Fitzpatrick, and CNES, while supporting my suspicions about a few in the D to F range.
I have a few Beckett Simonon. They are affordable, and I have found the materials to be very good quality. I think I have a brogue wingtip, a sneaker, and a while cut. I like all of them. No imperfections
Joseph Cheaney & Sons at C+ is insane, which makes it hard to trust any recommendation you make.
How would you rank them and why?
Lol. Herring shoes are made by Loake and Barker factories but they rated Herring higher than Loake and Barker 😂 And Cheaney at C+ makes me think these guys are just inventing their stuff up.
Best channel on TH-cam on this subject. Well done gentlemen.
I live less than an hour from the Allen Edmonds factory, if you can make the trip their seconds are a great deal! I have two pairs of boots from there that I love (brown wingtip, black Chelsea).
Haven’t expanded my dress shoe horizon yet, finding the right size without being able to try things on is a real pain
Very, very useful video! I wore Florsheim and this was an eye opener. I learned about brands I did not know exist. 👍👍👍
I was just searching for this video yesterday, I even commented with my wife that there was only a video of $500+ thanks for this video.
My preferred shoes :
Under $500 a wonderful pair of Cheaney bluchers in cognac and pebble grain.
Over $500 a awesome pair of Church's full brogue in Havanna brown
Formal black AE Fifth Ave quarter brogues
Seeing a prototype blazer from Fort Belvedere is enough to get me excited on what Fort Belvedere has in store for usbin the future!
Thank you so much for this video about RTW men's Dress Shoes. I feel I just enrolled in the course Dress Shoe 101.
The coin shaped case that Sven mentions is an adaptation of the first wrist watches, when straight lugs were soldered on to pocket watches. It became a design motive and is still utilized in modern wrist watch design.
Bravo!!! Have waited a long time to hear about TLB Mallorca from you
Have two pairs of the Herring Handgrade line which is Carlos Santos Handgrade and they are absolutely beautiful shoes. Gotten several compliments on them.
BlackBird Shoemaker is also an amazing handwelted brand which is up-and-coming from India. Their team is super responsive, and they’ve got some gorgeous leathers and great sole work.
Thank you for the thorough rating at this price rung! I have 3 pairs of Meermin's, and have had mixed results. The two pairs of boots from their main line have the same weak point: bad upper thread stitching. I've had them both repaired and both need repair again. I also have a pair of their Linea Maestro black cap toe Oxfords and those have been great! They feel better every time I wear them and are the nicest shoes I've ever bought.
I'm South African and I've been looking for a dress shoe well a boot in particular and Herringshoes really impressed me and your review gave more confidence in investing to buy from them.🙏
As someone who lives in the UK currently I'm finding it hard to justify spending more on a Northampton shoe than some of the great shoes coming out of Spain & Portugal, and increasingly Asia. Especially at this price point
I’m born and raised in Northampton, most of my shoes are from TLB, Carmina and increasingly Fugashin and CNES
The American "Samuel Hubbard shoes" are wonderful. they are comfortable from the very first step and you don't want to take them off. They are made in Portugal with the finest leather from Italy. I can only recommend these shoes.
I got an Oliver Cabell 2 months ago and it’s the most comfy loafers I’ve ever worn.
Quality, craftsmanship and customer service; TLB for me!
Great overview!! Like many folks, I learned about brands i didn't know existed. thank you
Nice video. Yearn is as advertised btw. I'll be unboxing a pair on my channel soon.
I opened them, theyre top of the line value shoes. I think with Yearn youre just getting the top of the line shoe for as cheap as it can be. The sole options and leather just make it superior to me over Gizano Girling. Especially at my age when value is just far more important.
I have just purchased an Oehler‘s Loafer(good year) and the quality and comfort is phenomenal!
Hi! Thought I would try and help with some video ideas. If you haven’t already, I would love to see a video on Raphael’s black tie outfit collection with all the dinner jackets, dinner suits and accessories, like the videos on tie, bow tie and shoe collections. Cheers!
Thanks!
I hope we get a rtw suits part 2 🔥
we'll see... 🤔
Theres a neat brand named sons of henrey that sells unique leather shoes for a decent price and made in spain, i think they retail handwelted shoes made in china with a brand called Oct. 10th as well :)
Thanks
I have Loake boots. They're absolutely amazing; perfect balance between elegant, formal and masculine. These seem FAR BETTER than something like a Aurelien, which is like a cheap Instagram brand if you ask me. I also own Carlos Santos. The Loake's are DEFINITELY better quality and more refined in my eyes. However, I've had my Carlos Santos for 7+ years, worn them as my daily dress shoe for work, and although no longer "like new" they're still my solid go-to. So have to speak highly of them too. But the Loake's are better than a C for sure.
Raphael is back! Please show up in more videos!
Good video.
Y'all's hate for SuitSupply is intense 😂. I get their custom line all the time. I love the experience there and they can do most of what i like. And i am not a slim fit kind of guy. I generally get 1930's style suits and SS is able to fill that order quite well.
1930s style suits? Yes, you’ve got style.👍. I’m fed up seeing the modern suit trend of hirpling about in girly-tight trousers, showing off their little white ankle socks.
If you are happy with them, great! I find their sleeves to be super tight, and I would definitely not describe any of their styles as 1930s but each to his own.
@@gentlemansgazette I wish I could reply with a photo. Their custom program really is different than their OTR stuff. Is there an email I can send some examples to?
@@LightemupWMH You can reach out to us here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/contact/?
Great to see Raphael do a video again! It’s been a little while
We all film about the same amount, it's the schedule that can cause certain things to launch differently
Good videos . I learn a lot from watching your videos.
Lucky enough to live in Singapore and have access to CNES' amazing showroom where I can try on each of their different models to see if the lasts fit. They also have amazing deals to clear older stock. I got a black suede double monk good year welted for about 100 USD half price. If you live in Singapore, little reason to buy shoes from anywhere else if you want big value. Their shoes are made in Vietnam, which has relatively cheaper labour costs.
Lucky you
Thanks for these ranking. I will only buy from A- to B + list than.
You should make a combined list for all price ranges!
Very intersting and well-exectued video. Very valuable to me. And also a great outfit, that Raphael is wearing.
I have several of these. I’ve been very happy with Ace Marks. Thursday Boots are a waste - solid materials but they fall apart quickly. They are marketed as Goodyear welted, but they were cleared glued with no welt.
Great video as always. I wonder what your opinion on Mephisto shoes are? A lot of their shoes are Goodyear welted, and while they are quite old-fashioned in their look, are supremely comfortable. A French company with German themes
Another informative GG video! I assumed Tricker's would make the list at this price point?
In the US, they are in the $500+ range.
@@gentlemansgazette My mistake! Thanks for the response ✨
Thanks for this video. Your guides have been extremely helpful. I recently picked up a pair of brown Yanko double monks and oxblood Vero Cuio brogued oxfords. I’m curious to know your take on Moreschi shoes by the way. I own a pair of their brown oxfords.
I purchased a pair of oxfords from TLB Mallorca and I love them so far . I’m not sure what other brands I might try out Maybe thinking J. Fitzpatrick. CNEs,, Carmina . And maybe Bridlen . But not sure which ones to many good choices
Fugashin shoes are well with in this range and fantastic (imo). Donegan isn't bad either. I do need to try Michael Darren shoes. They are in this range, seen them and they look beautiful.
Living in Brazil, all I can do is watch the video, and date these beauties from afar lol
A couple of additional companies in that price range worth taking a look at-Berwick 1707, Fugashin, NPS, and Malfroid. I’m not sure whether Ed et Al is still around, but they made some very nice value shoes.
As someone who has purchased Thursday boots they are very good especially for what you pay for, so if you want a nice Goodyear welted dress shoe without breaking the bank(like at all) then I would highly recommend trying them out, in fact I’m wearing some shoes from them right now!
Their lasts are not what we would call refined, and they have some very stiff competition here...
Taft is better for the pricepoint in my opinion
@@gentlemansgazette I definitely agree that the last is not refined, but my experience has still been great, and I usually buy them on sale so the price point is around 130 for a pair. I definitely am planning on trying out some of the other brands as well to find what works best, but my experience with them has overall been positive
I think good for the price is accurate. I didn't find them comfortable long term compared to other more expensive brands. I resoled with a JR leather sole and I find it much more comfortable.
I’ve got a rubber-sole boot and a double monk leather-sole from Thursday. HIGHLY recommend!! Very comfortable, great leather and both soles are wearing great.
Great video! I enjoy my pair of Thursday executives. They're quite comfortable, reasonably good leather, and a good price for the product. The "chiseled" toeshape was a bit odd to me at first, but they've grown on me!
I have seen Thursday boots in person, and we have several on the list that look a lot better. I just haven't worn Thursday boots for extended periods of time yet, hence no rating
I'd like to see a follow up more focused on how to judge leather quality specifically.
For me, my best/favorites are Wolverine 1,000 Mile boots; Loake 1880 Bedale Tan wingtip boots; Sperry Bellingham tan/linen Gold Cup; and the ones that get compliments every single time I wear them: Lethalto blue suede/leather wingtip brogues.
I would love to see you guys make a video about vintage spade sole shoes. Exploring the history, purpose, and styling of the "spade" would be very interesting.
I think you messed up some phrasing in noting Beckett Simonon - they’re Blake stitched. I find mine very comfortable, but a good deal for my case. I got them in a model I typically don’t wear much, a black brogued derby shoe for semi-casual wear and easy grey trouser fits 😀 Still love my vintage pieces better!
The Beckett Simonon shoes Raphael owns state they are Goodyear Welted on the sole
I worked at a small town men’s store in the late 80s as my first job. We sold Florsheim shoes. At the time the Imperial line was still a great shoe. The rest of the line was moving toward glued on molded soles. It’s sad to see that their decline is complete. Another great American brand lost.
What are your thoughts on Warfield Grand shoes?
In need of a "serious" pair of shoes in the 80's, I bought a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperial shell cordovan loafers, their top of the line. Could not believe a shoe could feel that good. I still have them, and they continue to be incredibly comfortable, timeless shoes.
I'd love to get your opinion on Paul Parkmans, been looking at those for a while and not sure if I should go with another brand or not.
I have 15 pairs of Allen Edmonds from the 1990’s - 2003. Since they have been purchased by another company, are you saying the quality has greatly decreased? Thank you
You can judge for yourself here www.gentlemansgazette.com/allen-edmonds-shoes-value-review/?
You said Beckett Simonon uses goodyear welt. For the Oxford's you reviewed, their website says Blake stitching.
Did I hear that right at the end? A Fort Belvedere blazer ?
19:14 That is actually where the stress accent goes in the word "patina." Pátina. Patina does rhyme with "latina."
Good topic and video! I am curious to hear feedback about Spier & Mackay shoes, if anyone has experience. I like their shirts and the shoes look nice online.
It would also be interesting to include Stacy Adams, Steve Madden, or Aldo, to name a few popular brands often found in shopping malls. They are perceived by many people to be high end shoe brands, along with Cole Haan and some others that ended up in your D to F range.
Has there been updates to include Morjas. I’m looking at either the SEPTIEME or Morjas loafers. Both a classic calf skin and dark brown suede. Like the designs of Morjas better, but curious about material and longevity. Also considering Grant Stone for both.
Just wondering, why RM Williams aren't included, Chelsea boots are dress shoes.
With some of the brands that you have unranked, can you do a video on those to get your thoughts on them?
Very cool, I live less than 1km away from Carlos Santos - it would haven been fun if I came across Raphael on my way to the groceries shop :)
Florsheim is my favorite pair just because how comfortable they are
I respect the insights very helpful. Sadly my Sanborn color Cap toe Oxfords are Johnston and Murphy so I'm hoping they'll last otherwise I'll try to save up a bit more next time.
I have an older pair of Johnston and Murphy, and I love them. They’ve held up well except the shoelaces, and fit comfortably.
@@gjs9871 Mine are still pretty new so I'll definitely give them a chance despite the failed ranking on here. I can't afford Allen Edmonds so I have to do the best I can budget wise but as long as they can last 5-10 years hopefully it'll have been worth the purchase. They'll mostly be for Church anyway so it's not like I'll wear them out quickly. Are yours also Cap Toe or another variety? I appreciate your response. It's also nice when GG acknowledge all comments but I understand that sometimes they're quite busy. As a gentleman in his 30's I always value all the info to continue improving my wardrobe. Hope you're enjoying your weekend kind sir.
Can i suggest to include the Italian brand DOUCAL'S?
Love these videos! Thanks for doing them. What about To Boot New York?
I was wondering what you thought about the Indian-made shoe brands that certainly fit your price criteria. I own pairs from 3DM Lifestyle, Lethato, and Rawls. Not sure I would buy Lethato again since they are slightly oversized and a bit "clunky" but the other two brands are a perfect fit for my US 13M (UK 12) size and are extremely comfortable. Going Italian, I am an Ace Marks fan since the shoes fit me perfectly (as they do you apparently) but I only purchase from their "Factory Access" event which offers exclusive limited designs held once a year for a short time window. So my Ace Marks shoes are unique. Ace Marks also offers shoe trees matching their Last which is a big plus for me. Love your channel, Thank you.
I have had a good run with Beckett Simonon. It's unfortunate you guys didn't have a good experience with them. I find them high quality and very quality. Maybe I just don't know any better. Interested to look into J Fitzpatrick
We're glad to hear you've had success with them!
Great video! Thanks so much for your sharing your insight. I wear a size 15D on a Brannock device. Can you share manufacturers that offer larger sizes at this price point (other than Allen Edmonds)? Thanks!
I have a pair of CU Richard black calf captoe oxfords and they're very nice. The quilted insole has started to peel up on one shoe, though. My biggest complaint is the closed channel outsole. It looks beautiful of course but it started to peel off on the toe of my right shoe pretty quickly. I'll probably have to get them repaired with toe plates. I see that they have gone to open channel soles on their current models, which is a good move.
i got some unlined meermin penny loafers for the summer. They are great, though it did take a while just to expand the leather so i could slip my foot in and out. gotta break them in a bit, even with no inner lining
If Nomos made a pocket watch, I'd be interested. Their wrist watch does look beautiful, but - I can bear wearing anything on my wrist.
Great watch... The price is also impressive... (Talking about the sponsor) 🤷♀
Nice Review...informative and useful...Thanks 😊
How is Tod's, the Italian maker of mens shoes, not on this list? What do you think gentlemen? I own four pairs and they are fashionable and well made. They are expensive so I buy them on clearance at the outlet center or on line.
Great video, next do winter coats pls
Strongly disagree with labeling Johnston and Murphy “garbage”. Yes, they’re not what they used to be, BUT, they still carry a few decent models at very reasonable prices. Believe me, I’m very particular about dress shoes, and I’m quite happy with my recent purchase of black half brouges at around $165 (you can purchase them for less on sale). All leather, nice last, very comfortable. Also, they sell some good city sneakers. Besides, they’re also a clothing brand with a good selection of casual cotton pants.
Most Shoes on their website between $150-200 when filtered are strange sneaker hybrids. The few dress shoes that are on there have clunky lasts and glued soles.
@@gentlemansgazette They do carry a number of models are that Goodyear welted and have good lasts (not clunky and not too fashion-forward). I agree that they’re just a shadow of their former self, but I would abstain from labeling everything they offer “garbage”. When I was a starving student I bought a pair of their melton oxfords. That was about 12 years ago. I still wear them! They’ve been resoled multiple times. They already have holes on the inside after being worn so many years. Super comfortable and as classic as it can be - a black cap toe Oxford.
Speaking of Goodyear welt - the benefit of it is that you can resole the shoes. However, Goodyear welted shoes tend to be heavy and not necessarily comfortable. Blake stitch and cemented construction are usually lighter and more comfortable and are actually a traditional Italian method. Goodyear welt is a British tradition.
What about Berwick ??
Good video! Can you do one like this for leather bags?
I had been looking at Cole Haan and Florsheim just out of convenience. Ended up writing both off as neither offered wides (or the triple wides Allen Edmonds sold me.) Lack of wides is increasingly a major issue for me with many brands. Johnston & Murphy also got the axe, as their 'dual-width' setup didn't go quite wide enough.
Greetings. I've been watching your videos for some time now and really appreciate the information you share with us. I have a question related to this video. Are you familiar with Finsbury shoes? If so, what is your opinion on them?
Great video! No Vass?
They're in our other ranking video! www.gentlemansgazette.com/ranking-rtw-shoes-brands/?
Vass ready for wear is under $500.
List is scored perfectly with exception to Magnanni I would prefer you try one and not have Ranked them. Buy from them directly and re-Score them.
Other than that Great job on the scores 👏
Jack here - I own a pair of Magnannis that I bought on sale. Although I enjoy wearing mine, Nathan and I agree they are not worth the price they ask
I'd rate Loake 1880 higher.
Thanks for your content.
Very interesting video...but I think you could have said a few words about Berwick 1707 as well. Greetings from Italy.
Do any of these brands offer wide & extra wide shoes?
Any thoughts on the Emillio Franco EF102 loafers brand
Quick comment on Barker. They are absolutely not worth the price. They are priced around £50-100 more than Loake, yet the quality is slightly poorer. When comparing a Barker to a similar Loake shoe, I noticed that the stitching on the upper was slightly inconsistent, the leather seemed overall a poorer quality. Not to mention the finishing on the welt and soles seemed incomplete. For those of you based in the UK who are after a good starting pair of shoes, look towards the Loake 1880 line. For under £300 you’re getting a handmade shoe that is made in Kettering Northampton. For the price point, I am yet to find a better shoe that is as widely available in physical stores. Do keep in mind that the styles are limited and the aesthetic is very Classic and British. But for most applications this means they are very versatile. I would like to state also that I am not affiliated or employed with Loake in any way - just my honest review :)
I completely disagree on almost all counts. I have two pairs of Barker brogues that I got for about £100 less than the one pair of Loakes I have (OK, they were on sale, but if not they would have been the same price, and they are also made of good quality calf leather in Nothamptonshire). The quality is exactly the same, and more importantly the Barkers are comfortable. That's because Barker offer a wide range of lasts and widths, unlike the very restricted offerings from Loake. My Loakes are the most ill-fitting and uncomfortable shoes I have ever owned, because they basically don't make any shoes that are foot-shaped.
these customizable made to order shoes looks awesome. choosing your color, style and laces right from the get go. wow. many a times I like a shoe but there are these small details which can't be ignored.
Which ones have you used?
Thank you for the video.
No Rancourt???
They're made in Maine and have a ton of options between $200-500 including Horween CXL shoes
Hello gentlemen. What experience and recommendations do you have for black tie shoes in this price range? Thank you
Regarding "chunky" lasts (as mentioned in the AE section, isn't that just a style differences between American and European styles? Alden is similar. Seems somewhat subjective.
Of course, everyone can choose what last they like. If you look at the best bespoke shoemakers and what they create, the lasts are always more refined. If you are happy with the AE look, go for it. We believe other brands are better value for style and quality, but as you can see in our cut apart video, AE is a solid shoe. There are just better brands out there, in our opinion.
Sponsored by Nomos. This is dope af
I don't agree with the Meermin vs. Loake ranking! Otherwise good video! :D
What is your thoughts on Sanders and Sanders and also Sons of Henry they both made in England I think. Thanks
I really like the blazer.