3 and 4 Wire Range/Dryer Cords Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ย. 2022
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I think the grind videos are great for apprentices. I recommend them to my guys and some of them come back with more questions and we go through it. They are great for sparking curiosity. The newer guys tell me they help them understand the things they do everyday a little better. My response...that's the goal!
Keep up the good work and thank you.
Awesome vids man thanks 🙏
HAPPY FRIDAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY!!!!! LABOR DAY WEEKEND!!!
Enjoy!
Good vid coach
I have a outlet 3 and a range that has a 4 prong. Suggestions? Do I just change out the outlet on the wall to match the 4 prong on the range in the kitchen?
I’m hoping you can answer, do I need to run a ground in the event I change from a three to a four prong? Without a pre existing ground?
I have the 3 wire but the 4 wire end matches my outlet can I hook that one up to it
1:21 so it is exactly the same for every brand?
Are you familiar with generators? I’m having an issue with mine.
Old house, new dryer, house only has 10/2 what do you do video?
120 volts?
I have a question that's probably silly. I understand the principle of grounding and conductor functions.
The neutral is a grounded conductor. Ground and neutral are bonded together at the service panel which is the first point of service connection from the transformer, physically connected to the same rail. We use the ground wire to protect the metal chassis of a device and conduits etc. as a failsafe in case the hot(s) ever faults to energize the chassis of that device. If it does, current has a direct short circuit path to take from phase back to the transformer center tap and it draws infinite current which instantly trips the circuit breaker magnetically. Neutrals are connected to the same rail in the breaker box, but they don't do this because the load is between the hot and neutral and limits the current flowing on it.
My question is, why can't the neutral serve as the short circuit path back to the center tap as well as a load carrying grounded conductor as it does normally? If the neutral was bonded to the chassis of a device, a hot phase faulting to it would bypass the device load and go right back to the transformer like the ground wire does. Is it because the neutral in a 240v appliance carries the current imbalance between phases, and therefore if it's connected to the chassis the chassis would shock someone as they complete a second new path for the current on the neutral to reach a grounded potential? It's my understanding that an electric dryer runs the element between hots on 240v but the motor and ICs/timer run on only 1 hot which will create an imbalance between hots. 🤔
That's absolutely correct. The neutral is a current carrying conductor and will have some voltage drop depending on the load and resistance of the neutral, aka I²R meaning if the current doubles the voltage drop is quadruple, for a given resistance. If the neutral were corroded (not uncommon where aluminum conductors are employed) while the dryer or range is in use, with a 3 wire setup, there is a shock hazard if you touch the appliance and another ground whether that be standing on the damp basement floor, a faucet, pipe or refrigerator even when the dryer or range is working properly. Of course a short to the frame should definitely cause the breaker to trip. A 4 wire setup is much safer in this regard because the neutral is insulated and the frame is connected to a true ground which doesn't carry any current unless a hot conductor shorts to the frame, which causes the breaker to trip. Granted the 3 wire setup has been used for decades before it was banned in 1996, and had a pretty decent safety record, but the 4 wire setup is safer.
If the dryer cable only has 3 conductors (no green ground) the neutral conductor is used EXACTLY for the purpose of the ground. The two (neutral and ground) are bonded at the dryer.
The neutral carries current in a 120V circuit and it carries the imbalance current in a 240V circuit. If the neutral was used as a ground, then all metal parts and anything grounded in the system would now have current on it. You go to disconnect some grounds/neutrals and there might be a spark and then there'd be potential on whatever load was hooked up to that neutral/ground. It would be unsafe to do that.
For real, I mean what's the point of not color coating them? From what I gathered after a painful 45 minutes on the interweb, center goes to center, and the outside wires can go on either side. Then this guy says not always 😂 If I blow myself up, tell the world my story 👍