Bart reminds me of a young version of my high school biology teacher. Sometimes I feel the car community takes themselves too seriously. These vids are fun & educational. Keep it up.
Matt, Thank you for not throwing in the stereotypical time lapse montage. I just have to say I appreciate your well cut and edited voice over video style so much. I genuinely wish more automotive project channels would copy your format. It is far more entertaining to watch and way more informative.
@@DangerDaveMurray Did I miss something-isn't the "IG" in MIG referring to Inert Gas, which is mostly argon in MIG welding? And yes, argon (TIG) and argon/CO2 (MIG) has certainly gotten more expensive. Also, now that I think of it, it would seem that the CO2 portion of MIG shielding gas isn't actually inert. But that's another comment . . .
@@SuperfastMatt Also your buckling strength can never actually be as high as the theoretical compressive yield. You're using euler buckling, but since your bar is probably a short column (less than the critical slenderness ratio), you need to use JB johnson's buckling formula. I wouldn't be suprised if this engineering oversight causes your car to explode killing the driver and several spectators.
Technically, I think that wire might be keeping the rear body section on the frame. You know, just in case you went doing extended freefalls or something.
Matt, The "real" function of the lock nut on a rod end is to eliminate the back lash between the threads of the rod end and what ever you are threading it into, the fact that is keeps the rod end from turning is secondary. Every threaded joint that is screwed together without any preload has backlash, which a lock nut eliminates. So as your suspension is working the rod end is moving back and forth taking up the built in backlash, not much movement initially but after a few hundred miles of heavy off roading it will increase in size and and as it gets larger it can cause the rod end to move in and out of the female thread, completely eliminating it ability to locate the rear axle and may eventually fail the threads. Your little 10-32 or 1/4-20 set screw will initially keep the rod end from turning but eventually it will just gouge out a slot in the rod end threads as they move back and forth from the thread clearance and make removing it a real SOB. As you are working on the off road project I guess it means we won't be seeing the streamliner at Bonneville in a couple of weeks? If you happen to go to the salt just to watch be sure to stop by the Schimmer and Son "I" fuel lakester no.984. Rex
Streamliner will be at Bonneville. I have been thinking about exactly what you are saying with the backlash. it's the reason I went with clamps on the upper control arms, and I might do the same with the rear lower links.
I understand wanting to push the Easy Button and just go with a tube for the panhard structure, but I am a little disappointed we didn't get patented Superfast "Rocket" Lightening Cutouts. You know the ones.
I have to say, I love how this channel doesn't have a scheduled publish date, I feel like every SuFaMa video is a surprise, to be sure, but a welcome one
You have quickly become my favorite automotive youtuber. Your project is unique and nuanced, the video series feels well-organized, and your voiceovers are hilarious. A major breath of fresh air in a stale niche. I am appeased. Continue.
@SuperfastMatt - I just wanted to drop you a line to say how much my son and I enjoy your videos. He's only 14 but more into cars that I am these days, and we do a bit of competition together. Your narration is so much fun whilst still be very educational, even if you tend to (always) choose to ignore your education and just guess. My son is hoping to be a mechanical engineer, but there isn't much of a car industry here in Australia, so he'll have to work for money to fund his passion for engineering cars like the rest of us.
Matt, I found your channel a few months ago and binge watched every upload over several days. While I very much appreciate and admire your incredible design and fab skills I have come to the conclusion that your very unique humor takes my viewing pleasure to defcon 10. You are by far the funniest darn car/motorcycle guy in TH-cam.
I really dig the reality that an engineer wings it as much as the rest of us peasants. I love this build, as it is the best end use of a Dodge Viper in the history of Dodge Vipers.
An engineer at a car company has the luxury of much more expensive and fancy tools for kinematic simulations though. Also a car manufacturer usually makes about 200 - 300 prototype cars and drives them for hundreds of thousands of miles to iron out all of the kinks. It’s the glamping version of winging it.
@@ZephyrCubic in F1 too - there must be two tethers to each wheel. Preventing the wheel from detaching and from hitting the driver. Was reading that they need to each withstand a force of 70kN in any direction within a cone of 45° - pretty wild.
So glad that I am not the only one who forgets to fully figure out where things are going to go. Had a similar situation when converting a customers MGB to RHD (he was taking it home to the U.K.). It is kind of hard to do when your steering rack attaches on the other side of the column. Thanks for always taking us along for the ride of engineering and mayhem that is your channel.
Having just passed the mechanical engineering FE, I can vouch for Matt's engineering. That shear and moment diagram was nothing short of masterful. In fact, I bet this Viper will be even safer than it was from factroy.
I’ve been watching him build since I saw him on jay leno with his Honda s1000. Everything he builds is just crazy enough to be fun without being a clown car
Matt is living my dream life as an engineer! Keep up the amazing automotive engineering content. Very fun dead pan humour mixed with harsh truths of business ethics (when it comes to engineering). Tickles my brain and my funny bone, truly the best combination. Bless you
I've built a few 3, 4 and 5 link suspensions from scratch. I've never had the benefit of CAD but have certainly used cad (lowercase... as in cardboard aided design). There are 2 million things you need to consider, and 1 million more things that will pop up when you cycle the suspension for the first time. and tenth. Great vid as always, keep up the good work!
I think that your engineer's humour is getting even better with each video. This project seems like a form of torture in some ways, but it sure is enjoyable for the viewer.
The way you engineer on this channel brings me great joy because I dropped out after engineering 1 and you're an "actual" engineer; and your approach to stuff like suspension design is pretty much the same as mine.
Barnes 4wd long shank enduro joints will fix the rod end issue. Get those and put a jam nut in. Thank me later. I've seen set screw links fail spectacularly on offroad Rigs. You were definitely right with going with the larger rod end but the jam nut is essential. Trackbar wise, the factory jeep trackbars are solid bar. On my jeep I ran 1.5" .25wall dom with a bend and 7/8ths rod ends. They're plenty strong and you'll probably be good with 3/16th wall. 1/8 wall would have more than likely failed by tearing at the welds, from my experience.
@ShardAerithes I've seen the set screws just get pushed through their threads when used on lower control arms for solid axle offroad rigs and then the joint breaks from the slop. The joint slop really needs to be taken up either by clamping it with a slotted insert or using a jam nut. I personally prefer jam nuts because they don't introduce a stress point on the joint and arm.
im so excited about this project, you're an inspiration. Also I want to mention that your vids are so dense and packed with detail that it seems like this 16min vid is an hour long. I usually speed up all vids to 1.25 or even 1.5 speed which helps a lot, but yours I'm tempted to slow down! okay I just tried it and while the pace is better for my absorption of the amazing content, it does make you sound like your drunk. anyway, thanks matt!
that set screw constrained rod end is giving me flashbacks to when a youtuber talked about how threads need jam nuts to not have the threads bang off of each other...
I used to only TIG, but had to buy a MIG to do some fluxcore on a project outside with wind. I now almost exclusively use the MIG because it is just so much faster. It's not as satisfying to do, but when I need to put metal together and don't necessarily care how the welds look the MIG is pretty unbeatable.
13:26 there are 3 rules of the workshop. 1. Always use the right tool for the right job 2. The right tool is always a hammer 3. Everything is a hammer. I've been a mechanic for 14 years now, and those 3 rules have always kept me safe.
My dad has a body shop and yup. He uses mig for those applications. He used to work a lot with aluminium tig welding for custom parts but he sold his tig machine to my uncle and he went off somewhere else to do that. He still welds masterpieces with a mig tho. Like a from scratch akrapovic exhaust manifold copy for his gsr 600 suzuki. I rode his bike just this sunday and it sounds crazy
matt i really love the bit where you think your good at cutting and welding . and yes you are making a "dodge more dodge than dodge did" , sir i salute you all hail the algorithm
I have concerns over the grub screw replacing the locknut. The nut does more than just stopping it turning, you will get movement in the threads. If you're only going to use this for a short time i don't see it being a problem, but given enough use it would chew itself up. It's probably fine though, this is for other people that might not know it's not ideal.
A big problem I see with that is....future serviceability. Once that set screw has screwed up threads that large(on the rod end), it will be nearly impossible to remove the rod end. I know this, because I manufacture a product with similar design and I caution the hell out of people to only tighten that set screw once they are sure they will not need to remove the large diameter thread that is getting screwed up. 😬
Youre really going to want to retain that jam nut if possible. The repeated push and pull on those links will eventually gall and destroy the threads on those heim joints. The jam nut keeps it in constant tension. Itll also eliminate any "clicking" when getting on and off the gas from the threads lashing against each other.
The cable is standard practice for body on fram vehicles. In the event of the body mounts failing from rust or damage, the body could leave the frame and you'd just die. The cable is a last resort to keep the body with the frame. Most trucks have them aswell
For your rear control arms. You could use offset hiem joints/ rod ends to fix your interference. There are also extended shank joints available for your lower link situation. Barnes 4wd makes both
This is so ridiculously over the top, it's next level awesome! Like SuperfastMatt Awesome! I can't wait to see what this thing will do offroad. All Hail the Algorithm
@SuperfastMatt I had to download these service manual, I can send it to you if you wish. The service manual call that cable a "Trunk floor reinforcement cable". I suspect it's meant to tension the bottom of the trunk to provide some stiffness.
4:05 find some places for some gussets. Edit: 13:30 Would it be a good idea to machine a spacer instead? Seems like the bolt could be fastened tighter and less friction would be applied.
This is my favorite car channel on you tube and has been since (I think?) hotrod plugged you over a year ago. It also makes me feel good that over engineering is an acceptable form of engineering, provided your primary goal is to reduce math and time not welding 😂
Another fantastic video of a project that would give me heart palpitations considering how many parts need to be put together (and sawzalled apart again).
When you were talking about brackets, I half expected a cutaway to Bad Obsession saying "Nice". They could teach you a thing or two about stringing a project out.
This comment is here for the algorithm. All hail the algorithm. (also, the only time I see cable straps like that on cars is to keep suspension bits from flying off the car during a "bad" trackday.)
I like these videos so much I bought one of the "Check Engine" lights fr my garage. With all the time I spend trying to turn those lights off in my cars I felt it appropriate ti have one on on the wall.
All hail the algorithm. It led me to your channel quite some time back and I'm enjoyed plenty of cutting and welding ever since. Not much maths though.
Generally the higher misalignment joint should be on the axle as the axle should move relative to the (particularly) lower links to prevent damage to the shocks. It feels wrong as the stresses on a rod end are massive, but bushings on the chassis side also yeild better ride quality 🙃
Speaking of rod ends experiencing massive loads, do you think that the little set screw is going to prevent rotation? My thought was that the jam nut may provide more resistance to the rod end changing angles under torsion, but perhaps I'm wrong. I suppose it depends on the friction provided by the jam nut, versus the shear strength of the set screw? Assuming that Matt added a pilot hole for it to enter such as a pin? I don't see the set screw having much success if it is simply relying on friction...
@@ShivaShakur I've never used a set screw, really it should be fine for retaining the rod end, but the longevity of the threads won't be very good, but probably fine. The best retention mechanism (imo) is turning the threaded section of the control arm into a thread clamp, which will allow you to re-tighten if there is wear/play in the shank thread, and a setscrew and jamb nut will not
Turns out the chassis is really just a large bracket.
That’s a chassis’ job, tie all the brackets together and keep them where they’re supposed to be
Seems the like the norm..
Project Binky is also one big bracket.
Not sure everyone is understanding the level of your humor 👏👏👏💀
it's all just a bracket that connects the engine to the axle, nothing more.
A vehicle is just a bracket to attach the driver to wheels...
The most amazing part is seen at 2:50 - an engineer updating CAD after change in production
lets just mirror it!
Bart reminds me of a young version of my high school biology teacher. Sometimes I feel the car community takes themselves too seriously. These vids are fun & educational. Keep it up.
Who's Bart?
Superfastbart?
Bart the guy with the motorcycle channel?
Maybe Bart Simpson??
Must be Bart from Donut’s Science Garage
Matt, Thank you for not throwing in the stereotypical time lapse montage. I just have to say I appreciate your well cut and edited voice over video style so much. I genuinely wish more automotive project channels would copy your format. It is far more entertaining to watch and way more informative.
i like dem puns.
Amen
am i the only one who likes time lapses with voice overs?
Pretty much everything I know about cars is from him. That's too say I'm not a car guy. I watch for the video style.
i mostly listen rather than watch, so i really enjoy the quality of these voiceovers
“It takes a truly special engineer to make a dodge more dodge than dodge did” 😂
Dare I say, dodgier?
that was one of the funniest things I've heard in my life to be honest
@@aabra6265 I laughed
You have the patience of a saint to have TIG'd that entire thing, holy shit.
Patience, or insanity? MIG would have been way faster, done well likely stronger as the fillets are larger, and cheaper to boot, argon aint cheap
@@DangerDaveMurray Did I miss something-isn't the "IG" in MIG referring to Inert Gas, which is mostly argon in MIG welding? And yes, argon (TIG) and argon/CO2 (MIG) has certainly gotten more expensive. Also, now that I think of it, it would seem that the CO2 portion of MIG shielding gas isn't actually inert. But that's another comment . . .
@@benz-share9058 MIG much faster, use less gas.
@@benz-share9058 you can finish a job with MIG faster though so while you're using the same gas, it's just less of it
While he spends all that time TIG welding his brain is cooking up future trial and error designs to amuse us.
Was waiting for the “unfortunately this creates a stress concentration at a critical area. Surely this won’t haunt me later.” At 7:02 😂
Fortunately, the rod ends are massively oversized.
@@SuperfastMatt but you earlier stated your coil over prevent the trailing arms from rotating. You didn't need a jamnut or set screw anyway.
@@SuperfastMatt Also your buckling strength can never actually be as high as the theoretical compressive yield.
You're using euler buckling, but since your bar is probably a short column (less than the critical slenderness ratio), you need to use JB johnson's buckling formula.
I wouldn't be suprised if this engineering oversight causes your car to explode killing the driver and several spectators.
@@zachary3777crowds love explosions!
@@SuperfastMatt I saw those rod ends and had to double-check that I wasn't watching Welker Farms' channel. They look like linkage parts off a Big Bud!
Technically, I think that wire might be keeping the rear body section on the frame. You know, just in case you went doing extended freefalls or something.
I’m certain an aftermarket extended irs rear suspension for a Baja bug might’ve been easier?
@@KILLJILL_Official did you really just say "extended independent rear suspension rear suspension"
I bit redundant 🤣 also meant it to be a stand alone comment. 🧠🥴
@@roadsidegarage69 As Matt said, "just say VIN number"
@@KILLJILL_Official I needed that redundancy to train my DOJO, Thanks.
Always love watching a fellow adhd engineer work; creative, always problem solving, and sometimes disastrous.
Fellow adhd engineer here, can confirm that’s pretty much how it goes. I don’t design bridges don’t worry.
Matt,
The "real" function of the lock nut on a rod end is to eliminate the back lash between the threads of the rod end and what ever you are threading it into, the fact that is keeps the rod end from turning is secondary. Every threaded joint that is screwed together without any preload has backlash, which a lock nut eliminates. So as your suspension is working the rod end is moving back and forth taking up the built in backlash, not much movement initially but after a few hundred miles of heavy off roading it will increase in size and and as it gets larger it can cause the rod end to move in and out of the female thread, completely eliminating it ability to locate the rear axle and may eventually fail the threads. Your little 10-32 or 1/4-20 set screw will initially keep the rod end from turning but eventually it will just gouge out a slot in the rod end threads as they move back and forth from the thread clearance and make removing it a real SOB.
As you are working on the off road project I guess it means we won't be seeing the streamliner at Bonneville in a couple of weeks? If you happen to go to the salt just to watch be sure to stop by the Schimmer and Son "I" fuel lakester no.984.
Rex
Streamliner will be at Bonneville. I have been thinking about exactly what you are saying with the backlash. it's the reason I went with clamps on the upper control arms, and I might do the same with the rear lower links.
I understand wanting to push the Easy Button and just go with a tube for the panhard structure, but I am a little disappointed we didn't get patented Superfast "Rocket" Lightening Cutouts.
You know the ones.
I have to say, I love how this channel doesn't have a scheduled publish date, I feel like every SuFaMa video is a surprise, to be sure, but a welcome one
What I love about this channel is the honesty of the problems faced and how you over come them.
You have quickly become my favorite automotive youtuber. Your project is unique and nuanced, the video series feels well-organized, and your voiceovers are hilarious. A major breath of fresh air in a stale niche. I am appeased. Continue.
@SuperfastMatt - I just wanted to drop you a line to say how much my son and I enjoy your videos. He's only 14 but more into cars that I am these days, and we do a bit of competition together.
Your narration is so much fun whilst still be very educational, even if you tend to (always) choose to ignore your education and just guess. My son is hoping to be a mechanical engineer, but there isn't much of a car industry here in Australia, so he'll have to work for money to fund his passion for engineering cars like the rest of us.
0:25 already a great start to another great video. All hail!
Matt, I found your channel a few months ago and binge watched every upload over several days. While I very much appreciate and admire your incredible design and fab skills I have come to the conclusion that your very unique humor takes my viewing pleasure to defcon 10. You are by far the funniest darn car/motorcycle guy in TH-cam.
I really dig the reality that an engineer wings it as much as the rest of us peasants.
I love this build, as it is the best end use of a Dodge Viper in the history of Dodge Vipers.
An engineer at a car company has the luxury of much more expensive and fancy tools for kinematic simulations though.
Also a car manufacturer usually makes about 200 - 300 prototype cars and drives them for hundreds of thousands of miles to iron out all of the kinks.
It’s the glamping version of winging it.
Just because we can do the math doesn’t mean we want to
2:02 That is a structural wire rope. Under compression it aids in supporting the fiber glass structure above.
Rope and compression are words not typically seen together
Maybe soon he will find out his doors don't shut correctly, or the top fitting.
@@MLSProductionCodoors and tops aren't required lol
@@benni5941 Cut open a baseball, it is a compressed ball of rope. Cricket balls are similar.
@@thesunexpress Does the cable on the car look like a ball? No, no it doesn't.
The dry sarcasm is SO strong in this one! Absolutely hilarious, and yet still superbly informative. Go (fast) Matt!
The cable is just to keep things more or less together in case of a crash.
aren't they to attach to the wheel hubs so the wheels stay close to the car in a crash? or is that just IndyCar
@@ZephyrCubic in F1 too - there must be two tethers to each wheel. Preventing the wheel from detaching and from hitting the driver. Was reading that they need to each withstand a force of 70kN in any direction within a cone of 45° - pretty wild.
Should tag the content creator so he sees this
The Matts-Links and Matty-Go-Round made me laugh last time and so it did again this time - Thank you good Sir 😂
If you check my post, it's a tensioner for the trunk, has nothing to do with safety.
I basically held it together until the “Fortunately…unfortunately…” sequence 😂 that got me 🎯💀
The last car with as many brackets was Binky the 4x4 Mini Toyota... Fantastic episode as always!
Excellent episode Matt 👍 Complicated problems explained simply - and with the aid of a Sawsall - what more do you need? Algorithm hailed...
Why is it called/pronounced a "saw-sall" when it clearly is more of a "saws-all" device. Genuine wondering.. 🤔
The suspension and rear frame are about 50% weld by volume. Great work!
Your engineering is just as good as anyone else's who can spell engineering.
So glad that I am not the only one who forgets to fully figure out where things are going to go. Had a similar situation when converting a customers MGB to RHD (he was taking it home to the U.K.). It is kind of hard to do when your steering rack attaches on the other side of the column. Thanks for always taking us along for the ride of engineering and mayhem that is your channel.
Just import parts from the UK
For someone who's only recently learned how to weld, your results are looking much better than before. Keep up the, uh, good work.
When welding practice makes perfect. A grinder and paint makes up for the rest.
Having just passed the mechanical engineering FE, I can vouch for Matt's engineering. That shear and moment diagram was nothing short of masterful. In fact, I bet this Viper will be even safer than it was from factroy.
Not to at all take away from Matt's talents but the gen1 Viper was an absolute deathtrap from the factory
@@BaddDukk and thus, we have the punch line 😉
By overdoing the suspension, you were just trying to move the CG lower. Perfectly respectable excuse.
This is the first video I’ve seen of you, and I’m already sold! Very excited to go back and catch up on this series!
I'd say all his content is gold: funny, informative. I just wish there were more of it.
definitely worth catching up on!
I’ve been watching him build since I saw him on jay leno with his Honda s1000. Everything he builds is just crazy enough to be fun without being a clown car
You're in for hours of enjoyment. Happy watching!
Matt is living my dream life as an engineer! Keep up the amazing automotive engineering content. Very fun dead pan humour mixed with harsh truths of business ethics (when it comes to engineering). Tickles my brain and my funny bone, truly the best combination. Bless you
I've built a few 3, 4 and 5 link suspensions from scratch. I've never had the benefit of CAD but have certainly used cad (lowercase... as in cardboard aided design). There are 2 million things you need to consider, and 1 million more things that will pop up when you cycle the suspension for the first time. and tenth. Great vid as always, keep up the good work!
I genuinely don't know what this channel is about anymore... but I love watching every second of every video you upload. Awesome
One of the reasons I dig these videos is the brutal honesty. It's refreshing.Thanks.
I think that your engineer's humour is getting even better with each video. This project seems like a form of torture in some ways, but it sure is enjoyable for the viewer.
The way you engineer on this channel brings me great joy because I dropped out after engineering 1 and you're an "actual" engineer; and your approach to stuff like suspension design is pretty much the same as mine.
Barnes 4wd long shank enduro joints will fix the rod end issue. Get those and put a jam nut in. Thank me later.
I've seen set screw links fail spectacularly on offroad Rigs. You were definitely right with going with the larger rod end but the jam nut is essential.
Trackbar wise, the factory jeep trackbars are solid bar. On my jeep I ran 1.5" .25wall dom with a bend and 7/8ths rod ends. They're plenty strong and you'll probably be good with 3/16th wall. 1/8 wall would have more than likely failed by tearing at the welds, from my experience.
The set screw worried me as well, I don't see it being nearly as robust as the jam nut
@ShardAerithes I've seen the set screws just get pushed through their threads when used on lower control arms for solid axle offroad rigs and then the joint breaks from the slop. The joint slop really needs to be taken up either by clamping it with a slotted insert or using a jam nut. I personally prefer jam nuts because they don't introduce a stress point on the joint and arm.
im so excited about this project, you're an inspiration. Also I want to mention that your vids are so dense and packed with detail that it seems like this 16min vid is an hour long. I usually speed up all vids to 1.25 or even 1.5 speed which helps a lot, but yours I'm tempted to slow down! okay I just tried it and while the pace is better for my absorption of the amazing content, it does make you sound like your drunk. anyway, thanks matt!
One of the best build channels out there
that set screw constrained rod end is giving me flashbacks to when a youtuber talked about how threads need jam nuts to not have the threads bang off of each other...
I used to only TIG, but had to buy a MIG to do some fluxcore on a project outside with wind. I now almost exclusively use the MIG because it is just so much faster. It's not as satisfying to do, but when I need to put metal together and don't necessarily care how the welds look the MIG is pretty unbeatable.
13:26 there are 3 rules of the workshop.
1. Always use the right tool for the right job
2. The right tool is always a hammer
3. Everything is a hammer.
I've been a mechanic for 14 years now, and those 3 rules have always kept me safe.
Can hardly wait to see it rolling; in all meanings of that word.
My dad has a body shop and yup. He uses mig for those applications. He used to work a lot with aluminium tig welding for custom parts but he sold his tig machine to my uncle and he went off somewhere else to do that. He still welds masterpieces with a mig tho. Like a from scratch akrapovic exhaust manifold copy for his gsr 600 suzuki. I rode his bike just this sunday and it sounds crazy
OMG, you are a welding God. Nobody else would even consider TIG welding the sub frame connectors.
Love the Matt way of improvising and cutting and doneing the things. It's better to do something.
I always stop in planning.
I actually do really enjoy welding montages if its close up and you can see whats happening. Welding is very satisfying.
I’m loving this series. Your thought processes and fabrication are so entertaining and relatable, and your humor is peak comedy.
the Honda s600 project has been what I've always (3 years) been most exited to get content on but this has now tied it.
matt i really love the bit where you think your good at cutting and welding . and yes you are making a "dodge more dodge than dodge did" , sir i salute you all hail the algorithm
Awesome progress!! If you want bump stops for this build, we’d love to design you a set that’s perfectly set up for the viper 🤙🏼
Can they be ridiculous and have a logo on them?
@@brenj 100%. We can even have the community specify the logo!
I have concerns over the grub screw replacing the locknut.
The nut does more than just stopping it turning, you will get movement in the threads.
If you're only going to use this for a short time i don't see it being a problem, but given enough use it would chew itself up.
It's probably fine though, this is for other people that might not know it's not ideal.
A big problem I see with that is....future serviceability. Once that set screw has screwed up threads that large(on the rod end), it will be nearly impossible to remove the rod end. I know this, because I manufacture a product with similar design and I caution the hell out of people to only tighten that set screw once they are sure they will not need to remove the large diameter thread that is getting screwed up. 😬
Youre really going to want to retain that jam nut if possible. The repeated push and pull on those links will eventually gall and destroy the threads on those heim joints. The jam nut keeps it in constant tension. Itll also eliminate any "clicking" when getting on and off the gas from the threads lashing against each other.
The cable is standard practice for body on fram vehicles. In the event of the body mounts failing from rust or damage, the body could leave the frame and you'd just die. The cable is a last resort to keep the body with the frame. Most trucks have them aswell
A welder and grinder make up for an amazing amount of mistakes. Great update! All hail the algorithm.
Hey! It seems your welds are improving. Slowly.
Nice
For your rear control arms. You could use offset hiem joints/ rod ends to fix your interference.
There are also extended shank joints available for your lower link situation. Barnes 4wd makes both
This is so ridiculously over the top, it's next level awesome! Like SuperfastMatt Awesome! I can't wait to see what this thing will do offroad. All Hail the Algorithm
Best guess for the cable is it helps support the fiberglass when trunk is filled with bags of sand. Looking sick!
@SuperfastMatt I had to download these service manual, I can send it to you if you wish. The service manual call that cable a "Trunk floor reinforcement cable". I suspect it's meant to tension the bottom of the trunk to provide some stiffness.
Crazy Baby ! Stir it up !😊❤
I love your blend of humor and education
So many more things to do means more videos to come and that makes me excited! Keep it up Matt!
4:05 find some places for some gussets. Edit:
13:30 Would it be a good idea to machine a spacer instead? Seems like the bolt could be fastened tighter and less friction would be applied.
All hail the algorithm! Thanks for yet again another entertaining video.
This is my favorite car channel on you tube and has been since (I think?) hotrod plugged you over a year ago. It also makes me feel good that over engineering is an acceptable form of engineering, provided your primary goal is to reduce math and time not welding 😂
The jeep factory bars are solid
Thanks!
Thank you!
Those rose joint rod ends are HUGE!!!
Another fantastic video of a project that would give me heart palpitations considering how many parts need to be put together (and sawzalled apart again).
Love the show. Love the sarcasm. Love the problem solving.
I'll say it again, "Dry humor for the win!"
Great job on the video Matt! Thanks for making it.
I love the SendCutSend logos added to the brackets and control arm.
All Hail, Matt you are like all good engineers, " if I can make it complicated" no need to make it simple!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm so glad you are doing this build. I like your other ones, but this is just so unique. Thanks Matt!
*ABOUT TIME* to get distracted and start a new project I would say... 😀
Glad Send Cut Send is assisting with sponsorship. Any suggestions on “cad” software for non-engineers, so I too can utilize them?
Lol wow these videos are an exact vocalization of how i talk to myself during projects. SUBSCRIBED
Mechanical engineer here watching your endeavors, and I full approve your builds!
@captainmufdyven9291 That sure put a smile on my face, putting it like that. I really like your sense of humor.
The Viper frame serves as a template. Cut/Paste boilerplate components with purpose built components.
When you were talking about brackets, I half expected a cutaway to Bad Obsession saying "Nice". They could teach you a thing or two about stringing a project out.
This is so much work. My hats off to you! Great content!
the suspense is building
Hey Matt. Hope your suspension is over soon… wait, what? Love your work 👍
This comment is here for the algorithm. All hail the algorithm.
(also, the only time I see cable straps like that on cars is to keep suspension bits from flying off the car during a "bad" trackday.)
"Make Dodge more Dodge than Dodge did."
Classic Matt.
Thank you for adding 'willy nilly' to my vocabulary. It perfectly describes the way I do my projects, too.
I like these videos so much I bought one of the "Check Engine" lights fr my garage. With all the time I spend trying to turn those lights off in my cars I felt it appropriate ti have one on on the wall.
Love the journey of your designing, engineering, fabrication, and commentary. And like you, I use those terms loosely.
Damnit. I was going to find out what the cable was for. I'll be checking back. Thanks Matt
Excellent work as always!
Great job mate. Enjoyed watching. Keep going.
All hail the algorithm. It led me to your channel quite some time back and I'm enjoyed plenty of cutting and welding ever since. Not much maths though.
Sawzalls are amazing. They even work well in home remodeling. And automotive remodeling.
awesome commentary, seems you spoken your mind out completely so people can know whats going on in the mind of inverters, geeks and enthusiasts
Love this build and your Style of Videos so much! Thank you and greetings from Germany! All Hail the Algorythm
You're funny dude and honest about screw ups , way to go
Generally the higher misalignment joint should be on the axle as the axle should move relative to the (particularly) lower links to prevent damage to the shocks. It feels wrong as the stresses on a rod end are massive, but bushings on the chassis side also yeild better ride quality 🙃
Speaking of rod ends experiencing massive loads, do you think that the little set screw is going to prevent rotation? My thought was that the jam nut may provide more resistance to the rod end changing angles under torsion, but perhaps I'm wrong. I suppose it depends on the friction provided by the jam nut, versus the shear strength of the set screw? Assuming that Matt added a pilot hole for it to enter such as a pin? I don't see the set screw having much success if it is simply relying on friction...
@@ShivaShakur I've never used a set screw, really it should be fine for retaining the rod end, but the longevity of the threads won't be very good, but probably fine. The best retention mechanism (imo) is turning the threaded section of the control arm into a thread clamp, which will allow you to re-tighten if there is wear/play in the shank thread, and a setscrew and jamb nut will not
@SuperFastMatt this is why the axle won't articulate, axle side bushing doesn't have enough flex and is torqueing the trailing links