I’ve done this on a motorbike numerous times and it’s reassuring to know it’s almost an identical process. So I now know I can change my bicycle bearings and @GPLama can probably now service a motorbike wheel!
I did mine buy putting the new bearings in the freezer for 24 hours to shrink them and then I just used the old bearings on top of the new ones and a block of wood and a hammer to drift them into place. I also used the cheap £3 (U.K) bearings which have been faultless.
You can tell that you've become a real bike mechanic, when you've got a selection of hammers 😉 If you've got more than 3, then you're a professional bike mechanic 👍
You might want to check out the RRP (Rapid Race Products, Race Ready products, or whatever) bearing toolkit, I fell a tiny bit in love with mine. Instead of selling you a complete $400 kit with press and every drift under the sun, you buy the press and the drifts separately, and only the drifts you need. Also, the parts are all anodized in bright colors, making them harder to lose. Plus, small and cute. Get one!
when the bearings are installed in the hub they get slightliy compressed due the fit and that causes small imperfections that cant be felt when they are not installed to come up, I had the same issue with my BB bearings recently
Great job. Now for some proper bearings and you should be set for another two years. As to the one side, has a left side bottom bracket bearing go out. Right side was smooth as silk. It maybe that the bearing got wet or exposed to some sort of fine dust but the right side didn't.
I've got replacement bearings from hambini for my winspace wheels. Thought I'd get his delrin bearing press things and a proper bearing press to tackle this job
@@silvercyclist3744 if I understand Shane correctly, he installed a set of dirt cheap bearings because he wanted to know that he could do it properly without destroying the bearings, and now that he knows, he will get higher quality bearings next time they are up for replacement.
There is supposed to be some side loading on those bearings which is compressed out when the wheel is installed; I noticed the front bearings on my MTB wheel were notchy when the wheel is off, but they are smooth when it is installed.
With those unbranded bearings you never know. I had some on my mountain bike and they lasted about three months until big play arrived and they were no more usable. On the other hand I also had maybe even cheaper (different model for different hubs) bearing on my cyclocross bike and they lasted with absolutely no issue two muddy and a little sandy cyclocross seasons with no proper maintenance.
The only thing I would do diffrently is pop the rubber seals with a pick. You can do this with out damaging the seal inner lip. I the pack the bearing with Lithium based marine grease to around 70-80% full and snap the seals back in. The grease bearings are shipped with is only slightly better than Vaseline. The marine grease has excellent water proof, heat tolerance and detergent resistance and is especially good for MTB's as they are frequently getting wet and washed. The need to put grease on the axle is not that important as the wheel does not spin on the through axle or tube is fixed to the fork along with the inner portion of the bearing once lock down and bearing balls are what roll between the inner and outer portions of the sealed bearing cartridge. That is the most important area to be lubricated and that is what the packing the bearing 70-80% full of grease. Because these bearings are only low RPM over filling is not a problem unlike an electric motor that could be 1480-4440 RPM and over filling can lead to bearing over heating and failure. As far as any one suggesting you did a botch job are just wankers. Good job.
I've heard (Hambini TH-cam channel I think) that cartridge bearings should be on 1/3 full of grease. More than that actually increases friction between balls and race.
Hi - I have a small amount in my front through axle (similar set up to your video). How do I go about 'just' trying tightening first, without a full rebuild?
@@gplama WHEEEEEEE! Yeah, good point, though your "technique" was solid, so I wouldn't worry. Understanding where to press on is key, and you nailed that. I do think you could make life easier with some temperature. You would be surprised how even a few hours, let alone a nice 12 or 24 hours, in a commercial freezer will shrink a diameter. Might even just be a nice "drop" in, or at worst, it will certainly lighten the press load. Course a "REAL" u-tuber would go for the liquid nitrogen! I think you need to call in Curtis!!! See: th-cam.com/users/CuttingEdgeEngineeringAustralia !!!!!!!! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
Unbranded bearings, random hardware for drifts, not greasing the axle interface. Proper bodge. Ought to work fine, but a bit of a risk to your hub just going for it. Press installs are so easy, but also easy to mess up!
@@gplama No issues with your installation, honestly, but IMO it sets the stage for a monkey with a hammer to knacker their wheels using less care and attention than you did.
@@sketchanderase tbh, a lot of my content sets the stage for people to royally fuck things up. I respect people can make their own decisions and take responsibility for their own actions.
What’s missing? If you need more detail, ask. Looking back over this video - I've covered the diagnosis, the old bearing removal, the new bearing installation, and the final result. What's "halv" way about that?
other then the cheap bearings and the removal of the second bearing and not just using the axel to remove the second. I don't see much wrong here. in idea his bearing press seems junk but its all a reall bearing press really is anyways. You don't always have to have the ultra specail tool to press bearings in tbh ive seen it done with a nut and washers and large wing nuts.
ICAN wheels are garbage... it's absurd to have to replace front bearings on a new set, but this is just the beginning of your problems. Shoddy design, manufacturer and materials, along with no customer support, are to be expected. My set of ICAN road wheels needed new bearings front and back, broke a total of 5 spokes and the rear wheel needed to be tried, all within the first 2000km! I was lucky to sell the wheels on Kijiji as I also noticed the beginnings of delamination within the area holding the tires. The possibility of catastrophe failure was something I could not live with. I was a fool to buy this junk; it was the most expensive mistake I've ever made and yet I bought them to save money. My advice, ship the cheap Chinese knockoff and enjoy the ride.
Thanks!
Thanks Jeff - You legend! 🚲
@@gplama Laaaaammmmmaaaaaa!!!!! Love ya buddy. Thanks for all you do. #PeletonSux 😆
Not going to lie, your DIY videos are my favorite. Thanks for passing along the knowledge to the rest of us mechanically inclined folks
For next time, you can make the new bearing insertion slightly easier if you leave them in the freezer overnight.
Great video, searched for ages for a simple front wheel bearing replacement vid, and this one nailed it.
Glad it helped
I’ve done this on a motorbike numerous times and it’s reassuring to know it’s almost an identical process. So I now know I can change my bicycle bearings and @GPLama can probably now service a motorbike wheel!
Very professional job
Half the bike shops would just tap them in, instead of pressing them
You legend!! I sat puzzling for ages, then saw this video, boom!! cheers 👍
I did mine buy putting the new bearings in the freezer for 24 hours to shrink them and then I just used the old bearings on top of the new ones and a block of wood and a hammer to drift them into place. I also used the cheap £3 (U.K) bearings which have been faultless.
You can tell that you've become a real bike mechanic, when you've got a selection of hammers 😉
If you've got more than 3, then you're a professional bike mechanic 👍
You might want to check out the RRP (Rapid Race Products, Race Ready products, or whatever) bearing toolkit, I fell a tiny bit in love with mine. Instead of selling you a complete $400 kit with press and every drift under the sun, you buy the press and the drifts separately, and only the drifts you need. Also, the parts are all anodized in bright colors, making them harder to lose. Plus, small and cute. Get one!
Great video, is it possible for you to do a video on the rear wheel bearing change as well please.
Great video Shane 👌👍👍👍 back to GPLAMA roots almost. Put the new bearings in the freezer before installing, as we all know, cold = shrinkage 😮😬😂✌️👍
Yay for Super Thanks 🙏 🦸♂️
when the bearings are installed in the hub they get slightliy compressed due the fit and that causes small imperfections that cant be felt when they are not installed to come up, I had the same issue with my BB bearings recently
Very useful video
Great job. Now for some proper bearings and you should be set for another two years. As to the one side, has a left side bottom bracket bearing go out. Right side was smooth as silk. It maybe that the bearing got wet or exposed to some sort of fine dust but the right side didn't.
Amen to You for D.I.Y. 🎉🎉🎉
I've got replacement bearings from hambini for my winspace wheels. Thought I'd get his delrin bearing press things and a proper bearing press to tackle this job
Ye, was a bit surprised at Shame for using unbranded 6802…ish bearings.
@@silvercyclist3744 if I understand Shane correctly, he installed a set of dirt cheap bearings because he wanted to know that he could do it properly without destroying the bearings, and now that he knows, he will get higher quality bearings next time they are up for replacement.
@@rasmuswi yes, I got that. I was using past tense.
There is supposed to be some side loading on those bearings which is compressed out when the wheel is installed; I noticed the front bearings on my MTB wheel were notchy when the wheel is off, but they are smooth when it is installed.
With those unbranded bearings you never know. I had some on my mountain bike and they lasted about three months until big play arrived and they were no more usable. On the other hand I also had maybe even cheaper (different model for different hubs) bearing on my cyclocross bike and they lasted with absolutely no issue two muddy and a little sandy cyclocross seasons with no proper maintenance.
Thanks!
Thank you Jeremy! 🙏🏼
👏 Bravo! 👍
The only thing I would do diffrently is pop the rubber seals with a pick. You can do this with out damaging the seal inner lip. I the pack the bearing with Lithium based marine grease to around 70-80% full and snap the seals back in. The grease bearings are shipped with is only slightly better than Vaseline. The marine grease has excellent water proof, heat tolerance and detergent resistance and is especially good for MTB's as they are frequently getting wet and washed.
The need to put grease on the axle is not that important as the wheel does not spin on the through axle or tube is fixed to the fork along with the inner portion of the bearing once lock down and bearing balls are what roll between the inner and outer portions of the sealed bearing cartridge. That is the most important area to be lubricated and that is what the packing the bearing 70-80% full of grease. Because these bearings are only low RPM over filling is not a problem unlike an electric motor that could be 1480-4440 RPM and over filling can lead to bearing over heating and failure.
As far as any one suggesting you did a botch job are just wankers. Good job.
I've heard (Hambini TH-cam channel I think) that cartridge bearings should be on 1/3 full of grease. More than that actually increases friction between balls and race.
I noticed the bearing you pulled out on the non-disc side was ok. Do you think the heat from the rotor cooked the bearing on the disc side?
Thanks
Thank you! 🙏🏼
do you have spacers for your discs to be able to swap out wheelsets, or is it possible to adjust them to be identical with another way?
No spacers... but I do have a few on hand if I need them.
Hi - I have a small amount in my front through axle (similar set up to your video). How do I go about 'just' trying tightening first, without a full rebuild?
TBH honest I was really hoping Garmin would make the move of setting up the unit via mobile phone.
How many km/time can you ride with bearings?
you can just reuse the axle to remove the other bearing next time.
Yup, that is the "right tool" for the 2nd half of the job since it's identical to the 1st half.
👍👍👍
Shane, did you ever get a resolution on your broken 303 Firecrest wheel?
Sent it back a few days ago. Work in progress.
What's the lube you've used in this instance?
Generic multipurpose grease.
And the Giro doesn't start for an hour or so...if it was Stage 6, you should have made this video 4-5 hours longer! 🤣
Hmm... so the "G" really DOES stand for gravel? Can't remember when the last time you did a "road" video. No worries, though.
G = Get more bearings! ;)
@@gplama yeah! ABEC 7's!!! or maybe CERAMICS !!!
@@pauldamian2988 CeramicSpeed have US$110 (or even more for 'coated') 6902 bearings.... Imagine screwing one of those on install. 😭
@@gplama WHEEEEEEE! Yeah, good point, though your "technique" was solid, so I wouldn't worry. Understanding where to press on is key, and you nailed that. I do think you could make life easier with some temperature. You would be surprised how even a few hours, let alone a nice 12 or 24 hours, in a commercial freezer will shrink a diameter. Might even just be a nice "drop" in, or at worst, it will certainly lighten the press load. Course a "REAL" u-tuber would go for the liquid nitrogen! I think you need to call in Curtis!!! See: th-cam.com/users/CuttingEdgeEngineeringAustralia !!!!!!!! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
($50 Hub + $50 spokes + $70 wheel rebuild) vs ($40 bearing press tool)
Having the right tools is easy math on this one, I vote bodge 😁
Buenos vídeos pero faltan los subtítulos en español
Unbranded bearings, random hardware for drifts, not greasing the axle interface. Proper bodge. Ought to work fine, but a bit of a risk to your hub just going for it. Press installs are so easy, but also easy to mess up!
2/3. Axle interface was greased. Based on what I’ve seen other TH-camrs blast bearings in with, this is a professional job! 🤣
@@gplama No issues with your installation, honestly, but IMO it sets the stage for a monkey with a hammer to knacker their wheels using less care and attention than you did.
@@sketchanderase tbh, a lot of my content sets the stage for people to royally fuck things up. I respect people can make their own decisions and take responsibility for their own actions.
At 10:27 it sounds like a sand on the lockring. U should clean it first😅before fasten it
Unbranded bearings, good luck.
Looking up NBK on AliExpress... 2 of them are $3.40! These unbranded ones cost twice that! 🤣
why start the recording halv way through the job??
What’s missing? If you need more detail, ask. Looking back over this video - I've covered the diagnosis, the old bearing removal, the new bearing installation, and the final result. What's "halv" way about that?
$6.60AUD? 6 months ago that was like -$0.13USD now though days it's like $115.00USD.
🤣🤣🤣
Your LBS mechanic is probably cringing right now. Pat care to confirm
other then the cheap bearings and the removal of the second bearing and not just using the axel to remove the second. I don't see much wrong here. in idea his bearing press seems junk but its all a reall bearing press really is anyways. You don't always have to have the ultra specail tool to press bearings in tbh ive seen it done with a nut and washers and large wing nuts.
I'm tired of gravel.
Guarantee? Wtf it's wearing parts
ICAN wheels are garbage... it's absurd to have to replace front bearings on a new set, but this is just the beginning of your problems. Shoddy design, manufacturer and materials, along with no customer support, are to be expected. My set of ICAN road wheels needed new bearings front and back, broke a total of 5 spokes and the rear wheel needed to be tried, all within the first 2000km! I was lucky to sell the wheels on Kijiji as I also noticed the beginnings of delamination within the area holding the tires. The possibility of catastrophe failure was something I could not live with. I was a fool to buy this junk; it was the most expensive mistake I've ever made and yet I bought them to save money. My advice, ship the cheap Chinese knockoff and enjoy the ride.
ugh... floor...
One day I’ll get a workbench. 🤣
Thanks
Thanks Tim! I really appreciate it! 👌🏼
@@gplama happy to send the Thanks. Your videos have been a huge help over the years.