Its only 550 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit to get this blue. Gun parts are normally annealed in the 500 to 600 degree range. So you will not change its temper.
If you heat small areas at a time like this to different temperatures you can create a nice case hardened look. Have done it a few times with triggers, bolts, and pawls.
Very nice. I've seen a lot of watch parts done that way especially the tiny screws in the movements. I believe that's the way the hammer, screws and trigger of the M1877 Colt are done as well.
I believe its called niter blue or fire blue. watches is where i see this the most as well. I have seen a few 1877s with there screws and trigger with this blue. I was unaware they did it to all of them. I have a thunderer made 1891. if mine did at one time is completely gone now. Being its not a very robust finish it wouldn't shock me that its gone. My 1st gen SAAs trigger had this fire blue. Only a very few spots thats still there. I love the looks of a nickel plated gun with the screws and trigger in this blue.
@@snappers_antique_firearms I've always heard it called fire blue and i usually see it on the nickel plated ones but it's usually only left at the bottom of the hammer. Definitely not a durable finish.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReviewso i looked at mine and a few of its screws look like they had a small amount of fire blue left. Thanks for pointing that out. i love my 1877 but i am not that knowledgeable on its history and finishes. Its a lot easier to work on then what people say. i also believe more durable then what people give it credit for. Plus i can feel like doc holliday when i wear it. Love to make a shoulder holster just like the one Val Kilmer wore
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview if you find one and ever need any help. i have gotten very good at fixing them and timing them. I am sure you know this. most that aren't functional is because of the trigger return springs broken. Very Easy fix. i put all new springs in mine. this could be a big reason mine has been so reliable.....Not going to lie seeing docs SAA there really shocked me. I would have sworn he had his 1877 in that shoulder holster.
Well done. 👍 That was my fast way to blue small parts in my gunsmithing business. Why fire up the bluing tanks for a few small things, right? I dressed hundreds of damaged screws that "Bubba" would trash with the same drivers for his lawnmower. On parts such as sears and triggers, while reaching the color desired, I'd quickly poke the sear contacts into a grey granulated compound called Kasenit (probably spelled wrong) to case harden those areas. And they were über hard for long service. Don't even know if that stuff's still around. Edit: Larger parts required more heat and "cure time" but small edges, like mentioned above, could be insulated with a good clamp (serving as a heatsink) and moderate heat applied to set the surface hardness. The Kasekit could litterly be dipped into by the part, or simply dusted onto the edges and a modest amount of further heat would do the trick, and not discolor the remaining part. [Remember amigo, you wanted to pick my brain on old school gunsmithing] 😆😆
I know kasenit very well..i probably spelled that wrong to lol. I found using homemade charcoal works great was well. On screws i will get clay and enclose the screws and charcoal then put in a fire pit or heat treat oven. Leave for a few hours. It hardens parts extremely well. Great idea to use a clamp as a heat sink. Lol no worries glade to have you around wade
just brilliant. big fan of your work cobber. I have no idea of the day time in your neck of the woods compared to me so take an Aussie Happy New Year cobber. all the best for 2023
Thanks steve!!! Well as of writing this it is 4:00 a.m. New Year's Eve. happy news years to you as well. I am glade 2022 is over. 2022 was a strange and crazy year. I am hopeful 2023 with be a much better year.
@@CodyandSteveDownUnder yeah we are some how linked. Unfortunately more bad then good in 2022. There are some great things that happened as well. But heres to a great 2023. i think you are right it will be a good year.
Thanks that belongs to youtuber squibload. I Fancied it up for him because it was a Uberti it had the naval scene on the cylinder from the 51 navy. I removed it reblued the cylinder and made a new set of grips from Walnut Burl. It came out just beautiful. I have a older video on that Leech and Rigden
Yes its also called niter blueing. You can do it 2 ways. The way in thos video or take potassium nitrate heat it up until the potassium nitrate turns into a liquid. To turn steel different colors there is a temp for each color starting at straw then purple then dark blue then lighter blue. You get the potassium nitrate to the exact temperature of the color you want. Then just put the parts in and a few secs later take them out. And done
@Ju379an just potassium nitrate. It will Liquify just before it is hot enough to blue metal. No water. Water will start to boil and boil off far before the temp is high enough. Plus, never add water to Liquified potassium nitrate at temp. It's just like throwing water on cooking oil at temp. Very violent reaction. Normal bluing salts work differently and are at a much lower temp than Bluing with potassium nitrate
Greetings Mr Snapper and Happy new year! Quick question, Would this method or the nickel plating help against corrosion from the elements? I live in a high humidity area and 10 or so miles from the beach. What would you recommend to preserve a 1851 and 1858 Remington Pietta reproductions. Best wishes and keep the good content up!
Its only 550 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit to get this blue. Gun parts are normally annealed in the 500 to 600 degree range. So you will not change its temper.
Lol you talking about the live show at the end. It was to let the other guys who were part of the show. know that they don't have to leave when it's over we usually hang out for quite a while afterwards conversating.
Its only 550 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit to get this blue. Gun parts are normally annealed in the 500 to 600 degree range. So you will not change its temper.
Thanks for showing that technique!
No problem santee. i plan on making small simple gunsmithing techniques and tips videos soon. Hope you had a great Christmas. And happy new year
@@snappers_antique_firearms You as well!
If you heat small areas at a time like this to different temperatures you can create a nice case hardened look. Have done it a few times with triggers, bolts, and pawls.
Very nice. I've seen a lot of watch parts done that way especially the tiny screws in the movements. I believe that's the way the hammer, screws and trigger of the M1877 Colt are done as well.
I believe its called niter blue or fire blue. watches is where i see this the most as well. I have seen a few 1877s with there screws and trigger with this blue. I was unaware they did it to all of them. I have a thunderer made 1891. if mine did at one time is completely gone now. Being its not a very robust finish it wouldn't shock me that its gone. My 1st gen SAAs trigger had this fire blue. Only a very few spots thats still there. I love the looks of a nickel plated gun with the screws and trigger in this blue.
@@snappers_antique_firearms I've always heard it called fire blue and i usually see it on the nickel plated ones but it's usually only left at the bottom of the hammer. Definitely not a durable finish.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReviewso i looked at mine and a few of its screws look like they had a small amount of fire blue left. Thanks for pointing that out. i love my 1877 but i am not that knowledgeable on its history and finishes. Its a lot easier to work on then what people say. i also believe more durable then what people give it credit for. Plus i can feel like doc holliday when i wear it. Love to make a shoulder holster just like the one Val Kilmer wore
@@snappers_antique_firearms I'm always on the lookout for a lightning myself. Just remember, Doc never carried the lightning in the shoulder holster.
@@SmallCaliberArmsReview if you find one and ever need any help. i have gotten very good at fixing them and timing them. I am sure you know this. most that aren't functional is because of the trigger return springs broken. Very Easy fix. i put all new springs in mine. this could be a big reason mine has been so reliable.....Not going to lie seeing docs SAA there really shocked me. I would have sworn he had his 1877 in that shoulder holster.
Very informative Snapper, a very nice blue color👍
Thanks gxrza hope you had a great Christmas and a good new year
Thank you snapper you as well👍
Well done. 👍
That was my fast way to blue small parts in my gunsmithing business. Why fire up the bluing tanks for a few small things, right?
I dressed hundreds of damaged screws that "Bubba" would trash with the same drivers for his lawnmower.
On parts such as sears and triggers, while reaching the color desired, I'd quickly poke the sear contacts into a grey granulated compound called Kasenit (probably spelled wrong) to case harden those areas. And they were über hard for long service. Don't even know if that stuff's still around.
Edit: Larger parts required more heat and "cure time" but small edges, like mentioned above, could be insulated with a good clamp (serving as a heatsink) and moderate heat applied to set the surface hardness. The Kasekit could litterly be dipped into by the part, or simply dusted onto the edges and a modest amount of further heat would do the trick, and not discolor the remaining part.
[Remember amigo, you wanted to pick my brain on old school gunsmithing] 😆😆
I know kasenit very well..i probably spelled that wrong to lol. I found using homemade charcoal works great was well. On screws i will get clay and enclose the screws and charcoal then put in a fire pit or heat treat oven. Leave for a few hours. It hardens parts extremely well. Great idea to use a clamp as a heat sink. Lol no worries glade to have you around wade
interesting
This is great information, thanks. “Safety Robe” 🤣
😁 my wife gets real mad when i burn a hole or stain my expensive nice robe. Lol
Classic Leisure suit snapper
Nothing screams professionalism like a nice robe. Also the patented safety robe will protect you from anything... even nuclear radiation
just brilliant. big fan of your work cobber. I have no idea of the day time in your neck of the woods compared to me so take an Aussie Happy New Year cobber. all the best for 2023
Thanks steve!!! Well as of writing this it is 4:00 a.m. New Year's Eve. happy news years to you as well. I am glade 2022 is over. 2022 was a strange and crazy year. I am hopeful 2023 with be a much better year.
@@snappers_antique_firearms yes, we had a few similarities in our lives old mate, 2023 will be a ripper :) trust me :)
@@CodyandSteveDownUnder yeah we are some how linked. Unfortunately more bad then good in 2022. There are some great things that happened as well. But heres to a great 2023. i think you are right it will be a good year.
@@snappers_antique_firearms 😁
Nice Leech and Rigdon.
Thanks that belongs to youtuber squibload. I Fancied it up for him because it was a Uberti it had the naval scene on the cylinder from the 51 navy. I removed it reblued the cylinder and made a new set of grips from Walnut Burl. It came out just beautiful. I have a older video on that Leech and Rigden
So easy, even Squib could do it.
Indeed
Also known as nitre blue I believe. I am going to try this on my next project gun
Yes its also called niter blueing. You can do it 2 ways. The way in thos video or take potassium nitrate heat it up until the potassium nitrate turns into a liquid. To turn steel different colors there is a temp for each color starting at straw then purple then dark blue then lighter blue. You get the potassium nitrate to the exact temperature of the color you want. Then just put the parts in and a few secs later take them out. And done
@@snappers_antique_firearmsjust Potasium N. Or I add some water in the mix?
@Ju379an just potassium nitrate. It will Liquify just before it is hot enough to blue metal. No water. Water will start to boil and boil off far before the temp is high enough. Plus, never add water to Liquified potassium nitrate at temp. It's just like throwing water on cooking oil at temp. Very violent reaction. Normal bluing salts work differently and are at a much lower temp than Bluing with potassium nitrate
@@snappers_antique_firearms thanks
Greetings Mr Snapper and Happy new year! Quick question, Would this method or the nickel plating help against corrosion from the elements? I live in a high humidity area and 10 or so miles from the beach. What would you recommend to preserve a 1851 and 1858 Remington Pietta reproductions. Best wishes and keep the good content up!
❤❤❤❤
Huumm...hardening ?😐
Its only 550 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit to get this blue. Gun parts are normally annealed in the 500 to 600 degree range. So you will not change its temper.
So what we wait for last night?
Lol you talking about the live show at the end. It was to let the other guys who were part of the show. know that they don't have to leave when it's over we usually hang out for quite a while afterwards conversating.
@@snappers_antique_firearms about a half dozen of us waited for you in the chat.
@@StevenMMan o really i am so sorry. i ment it for the guys in the show. not watching. I am so so sorry
Nice tip. New sub, came over from 11BangBang. Safety robe...on my purchase list.
Thanks and glad to have you. The safety robe is a must. especially if you're doing anything dangerous 🤠