I was able to successfully replace the front crank seal on my 1989 Toyota pick up truck by following the instructions in this video. My biggest worry was getting the crank shaft bolt off the engine. However, the bump start method worked like a charm. Thank you for this video! No more oil leak!
Solid vid! Seriously I used this anonymously about a year ago and it changed my damn life. Part numbers provided? You're a saint. Came back here a year later to share this with a buddy.
This helped me so much, I’m getting ready to do the front main seal on my 1980 2wd and I’ve been looking for days for a video that actually showed what to do and explained each step. You’re awesome!
Im a 54 year old mechanically inclined woman and thanks to your video I am going to attempt to change my 1986 2 wheel drive pickup front main seal. Thank you for your video would love to see more videos on the 22 r motor.
WheeliePete, I cannot thank you enough for this video. If not for this I would have to had paid a small fortune for this fix. You did a fantastic job at explaining and the torque specs were an added bonus!
I don't know where you've been brother , but I just recently found your videos on these beautiful motors and I must say you do one hell of a job by explaining and detailing everything thank you.
Well hallelujah! A perfect video with all the facts. I am about to do a video on making this repair over on my channel but I will absolutely be linking to this one in my description! THANK YOU for listing the actual Toyota part numbers in your video! Here’s to fixing mine lol
I love your videos and it's help me work on my Toyota 4Runner 1985 22RE. I've had it for 19 years and been too busy with my CPA practice to work on her. This neglect left me with some significant problems I've been working on the last month or so. However I've enjoyed the change of Lifestyle. Reminds me of the old days working on my Hodaka and getting ready to go race it out in the desert. The good old 70s :)
Super helpful video thank you so much WheeliePete! Got my front main seal and o ring all replaced and I'm finally leak free. The PO had put a thin seal in but didn't drive it all the way into the bore. From the looks of it if it's sitting flush at the top of the bore then it sits about where the thick seal does on the pulley. Driving the thinner seal to the bottom lets it ride on a new place on the pulley and like you said guarantees it's square in there. One thing I encountered that you didn't get into too much in the video is that tightening the pulley bolt was a bit tricky! I used the bump start method to get it off and that worked great. Didn't need a pulley puller either probably because it had been leaking oil for quite a while and it was lubed up ready to slide off. The most trouble I actually had was finding a way to hold that pulley still so I could tighten that bolt back up to spec. I didn't have a pulley wrench, or holder, and I left my radiator in so a regular impact gun wouldn't do it. I didn't want to wait for a tool or spend the money on a 90 degree impact gun and it maybe still not fit. Best thing I came up with was to block the tires, parking break on, put it in 5th gear, 4hi and then tighten against that. My torque wrench topped out around a 100 ft/lbs so just went a little past that and have checked it a few times since and it's stayed tight. I think I've read and understand that the bolt should get tighter over time due to the nature of the rotation of the motor and the matching direction of the bolt to tighten. Lotta torque going on there! Videos like yours really help the average guy work on their own stuff, save money, and keep their rigs rolling down the road ;) Many thanks!
Glad the video was able to help you out. It sounds like you'll be just fine on the torque. You did exactly what I would recommend in the absence of the right holding tool for torqueing the crankshaft pulley bolt.
I had this problem multiple times with two different 22R blocks back when I had my '85 4x4 in the mid 1990s. I loved that engine, but the front seal leaks, which would spray oil all around underneath the hood, drove me crazy. Back then I know one of the problems I faced was that the quality of some of the aftermarket oil pump replacements on the market caused them not to work well and would allow oil to leak past the replacement seal (I tried the balancer sleeve but it did not solve the problem). I think the quality of the aftermarket oil pumps are better today.
mikes85supra Thanks, I appreciate it. It takes me about 4 of work per finished minute of video (filming, shooting picture, writing dialogue, editing, uploading, etc.) to make this type of video. I make enough money off the google advertising to keep me wanting to continue making these vids, but I'm not getting rich by any stretch...lol (can't quit my day job just yet..lol.) If you're involved in any forums or groups online that would benefit from these videos please share them around. (The more people that watch the videos, the higher they climb in the search engines, etc...)
Tip: If anyone still has an oil leak after replacing the front main seal, oring and has ruled out the crankshaft pulley groove as an issue. It very well could be the top bolt that requires thread sealant. I just discovered this during my installation. It is 100% coming from said bolt. I was able to see it with an inspection mirror. I did not let my sealed cure both times I have tried to remedy the issue. Third times a charm, but i plan on letting it cure for as long a possible. 8 hours after work :) (Its my daily driver) Its hard to believe it could leak so much, but i was counting a drop every couple of seconds. Plus it runs down and gives the appearance that its coming from the main seal or o-ring. Note: i have tried Peratex high temp with no success. I will be trying Loctite thread sealant PST stick 37615 next. It worked great for my oil pressure sensor, and I believe it cures a little faster than the permatex. I will update after I give it a shot.
The permatex has always worked well for me, but I do clean the bolt pretty well before install. Let us know how the Loctite thread sealant works for you and if it does I'll add it to the video description links too.
@@WheeliePete What are you cleaning the hole with Pete? I thought about q-tip and acetone. Or just draining the oil and spraying a bunch of aerosol acetone through.
If you've got the pump off a q-tip and acetone should do the trick. I also would make sure you've got the right bolt up in that hole. If I remember right, that's the bolt that if it's too long can go through and butt up against the timing chain tensioner and cause problems. The leak you're describing almost makes me think somone swapped in a bolt that is slightly too long and it's bottoming out right as it almost looks like it's down all the way, fooling the installer into thinking it's tight when it's just touching something on the inside. Does that make sense? I had a similar situation on a transfer case where a stone guard was removed from under a bolt and then the bolt was run back down, but it bottomed out before it got tight and then started leaking gear oil through the bolt. You can take a skinny screwdriver and use it as a depth gauge and then compare that against the bolt and see if maybe that's the problem (bolt too long).
FYI guys I'm deep into a rebuild of my 22re and if you get the Toyota OEM overhaul seals kit (got mine from camelback Toyota parts for 156$ and it has damn near every seal you will need including these shallower main seals for front and rear and putting them on the way Pete shows has them riding just behind the groove from the old seal. I'd say this tutorial is quite actuate.
These are great videos, I have a 1988 toyota pickup 2wd. There is nothing wrong with it right now, it's just nice to know for future reference. The only complaint I have about my truck is that it's a 4 speed manual, I would like to put a 5 speed in it.
I install the pump with 2 loose bolts then install the pulley lightly to center the pump/seal...tighten the 2 bolts, remove pulley and install the rest of the bolts, torq to spec...This makes sure the seal is centered on the seal surface of the pulley, if its not centered it will leak.....And beware doing the bump start to remove the crank bolt....You can F up the flywheel and or starter,,,I only use it as a last resort after trying a little heat to the bolt and light taps on it...I took a thick piece of 1/4" steel flat bar, drilled 2 15mm holes spaced to fit 2 of the pulley cutouts(where you put the drift) and ground out a haft moon to let the socket go by, install 2 14mm bolts with nuts in the 2 holes and use as a holder, the bolts going into the cutouts and the bar against the socket side....Doesnt F up the dust seal....
JaffaCakes Thanks man, you mean you want to see how to actually take apart the inner cages and balls of the birfield? It's kind of cool how that little jigsaw puzzle goes together. I've got one sitting on the bench right now. I'll put that on the video idea list. :-)
Yes sir, that and even a basic rebuild when the leaks start coming down the birfs would be great. Could you also mention what kind of greases you use for different applications? I dont always know what type is right to use.
JaffaCakes I've got a video already on the inner axle seals (which when they fail is what causes the knuckles to leak gear oil.) th-cam.com/video/qevb7w9pUdk/w-d-xo.html As for grease to pack a birfield with, I just use whatever high-temp grease I have close by. I just keep jamming it into the birfield until it spurts back out between the cages. The factory service manual calls for filling the knuckle with grease through that fill plug, but that just makes a nasty mess if you have to get back in there so what I do is clean it all out, grease the bearings (upper and lower trunion) and then make sure a light coat of grease is spread on all surfaces so they don't get rusty. This is a good way to do it if you are into the knuckles on a regular basis (at least once a year if you do any deep water crossings).
Excallent video! I appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. One question though: when putting in the new thinner seal, if you drive it all the way in, won't the back lip of the seal be in the groove and have a chance to leak again? It would have to stay out a bit to avoid this. Thanks for any reply on this.
The seal being square in the bore is more important than trying to drive it to a specific depth to avoid the groove. It's easy to drive the seal square either flush with the surface of the oil pump housing or all the way to the bottom. If the seal is even a little bit cocked, it's going to leak really quick. Generally speaking if the seal that's coming out was a thick one that was flush with the top of the oil pump housing and you replace it with a thinner one driven to the bottom of the bore, the groove in the crankshaft pulley isn't a problem. If it does start leaking again you'll probably need to get a new crankshaft pulley or speedi-sleeve it, or have the groove welded up and turned back down by a machinist (although unless you are a welder/machinist that option is going to be way more expensive than just getting a new crankshaft pulley.)
It's not necessary to remove the oil pump, but it's easy to do and gives you a chance to inspect your oil pump gears while it's off the engine. Removing the oil pump also lets you drive the seal perfectly into the bore with a seal driver, something you can't do if the crank is in the way.
Hey. Thanks for this video, it is straightforward, well-paced, and expertly done!!! I am going to be replacing the front main seal on my 1990 toyota pickup 22re and in my Chilton guide it says that I ought to take off the oil pan before removing the drive belts and the crankshaft pulley. Would you recommend that? (I may have a leak there, too, in which case I will do it anyways, but was wondering if it was necessary for the front main.)
+Eli Edleson-Stein Unless you have a confirmed oil pan leak I would NOT take the pan off. I have a 1992 4x4 also and you do not need to remove the pan to get at the front main seal. Sent you a private message also with some information you may want.
The pump is above the oil level in the pan so you technically don't have to drain the oil. There will be some drainage when you pull the pump off the front of the timing cover from oil trapped in the pump body and oil passages.
Thanks Mark cool video. I have a Question for you maybe you can answer. I have a Toyota with a 22 RE in it and I’m having problems with it overheating. as I was taking it apart to check the head gasket I noticed that when I took the oil filter off it didn’t have any oil in it at all. Do you have any idea what would cause something like that?
Oil filter have an anti-drainback valve (flap) in it? If the filter doesn't have an anit-drainback flap (or if it's not working right) the oil can flow out of the filter and back to the pan. The idea there is that the filter should be holding oil in it so it's full on the next startup. There was oil in the pan, right? No oil circulation in the system would cause a major damage, not just overheating.
What type of grease do you recommend for the inside lip and spring of the main seal? Also is assembly lube recommended for the outer lip of the seal when seating?
I usually just use whatever bearing grease is close at hand for the seal lips. As long as it's safe for o-rings you'll be fine. Technically you are supposed to grease the outside diameter of the rubber seal lightly before you drive it in, but I've never had a problem cleaning the surfaces and driving them in dry. A little bit of lubrication on the outside of the seal will help it go in easily though. I personally like to dry fit them to ensure they don't come back out on their own, but you can booger them up if you're not careful. Probably best to just put a very light coat of grease on the OD of the seal before you drive it in.
Hey Pete, great tips and great videos that you put out. Do you have a video on removing and replacing the timing cover on a 22RE engine? I have a 1993 2wd pickup that is spewing 2 quarts of oil a week all over the place. I have been told that the oil pump seal is leaking but I suspect that the timing cover is also losing oil. Thank you for all the great information that you provide.
+4phishn If you're losing oil that fast it is most likely the front main seal, or the o-ring behind the oil pump is pinched. Video covers that. You're timing cover would probably need to be broken to lose that much oil from a timing cover and you would probably be able to see it puking out the crack.. With that much oil coming out it's probably the front main seal. When the front main goes bad, oil leaks onto the spinning crankshaft pulley and gets flung everywhere. Do you have oil on the underside of the hood? Front main seal for sure.
@WheeliePete, I just ran into the same problem @Ben Hanley (down below) had. I was all set putting the new Aisin oil pump on and got all four bolts torqued bottom part of the pump and started torquing the top bolt (through the timing chain cover). Had some resistance and going good, then it just slipped and kept free spinning. Took the bolt out along with the aluminum threads from the timing chain cover. I am, pretty sure a shop tried to correct a previous oil leak by over tightening. Either way, now I have the dilemma of should I put a helicoil in now or do I chance messing a bunch of stuff up by removing the timing chain cover to install helicoil? Can't find a good helpful video on this.
I've never done a thread repair on that hole, but I bet it could be done with the oil pump off and just be really careful about shavings and try not to break the tang of the helicoil off and have it fall into the engine. Removing the timing cover with the head in place can be done, but it's tricky because of the head gasket overlap at the top of the timing cover (junction of the head, timing cover and block.) If you booger up the head gasket right there you'll end up with another oil leak. If you're going to go that far into it you might as well replace the timing chain, guides, etc. The other thing you really have to watch out for is there's a hidden bolt in the head that sits in a puddle of oil under the distributor drive gear. That bolt is through the head and into the top edge of the timing cover. People often forget about it, start prying on the timing cover after they *think* they have all the bolts out, and then snap the timing cover. I have done timing replacement though with the head in place, you just have to be really careful when you do go to pry off the timing cover and then make sure all your sealing surfaces are really clean before you put it all back together. One last thing, if you decide to get a new timing cover, and if you're engine has been rebuilt and has had the head surfaced or decked, you'll want to make sure your new timing cover is the same height as your old timing cover. If the engine has been rebuilt and they machined the block with the timing cover in place to match the height, then the new timing cover will need to be machined to the same spec.
@@WheeliePete Roger that, I'm going to attempt to helicoil it with the timing cover in place. The rebuilt engine has maybe 50K on it. I don't want to risk pulling it all apart not really knowing what I'm doing. Spoke to a local mechanic yesterday and we agreed the less amount of shavings in the engine the better. Will get the tang of the helicoil out somehow. He stated that the oil screen should pick up any shavings prior to entering the engine anyway. I was searching for an oil flow diagram of the 22RE to confirm. I think I'll do an oil change prior to starting the engine once everything is back in place. Thanks for the info.👍
a coconut water can is perfectly sized for driving the new seal. I haven't tried a full one, but it crushes the top edge about the time the seal's driven in fully on the empties.
This video was very helpful as I just changed my front seal, oil pump, and oil pan gasket due to an oil leak. But, I still have a serious leak from the front seal/pump area. Any ideas what could be going on? I did the job just like you showed with thread sealant on the one bolt and all bolts torqued to spec. I wonder if I have something going on with the crankshaft? The seal surface was smooth with no grooves. Many thanks to any ideas and thank you very much for your videos. They are amazing.
If it's still leaking a lot and you drove the seal in square to the bore, the most likely scenario would that the oil-pump o-ring did not stay seated in the groove when you put the pump back on the timing cover. If that o-ring is compromised it will leak a lot as the oil is under pressure right there. Can you identify where the oil is coming from? A leaking o-ring will manifest by oil leaking from the seam between the pump body and the timing cover. Clean everything off, run the engine, shut it off and look for where the leak is coming from. There will usually be some oil seepage for the first little while as the oil you put on the gears when reinstalling them will have run down over the o-ring and then get squeezed out between the oil pump and the timing cover during install. That should usually clear up within a few days.
The seal was already seated in the oil pump that I put on. It could be that o-ring. I didn't feel good about it when I put it back together. It's leaking too much to just be seepage. I guess I will take it apart again and reseat the o-ring. Thanks!!
Use a few dabs of a sticky automotive grease in the o-ring groove and then press the o-ring into the groove. The sticky grease will hold it in place while you put it on the timing cover.
Turns out the harmonic balancer has a groove in the sealing surface. When I did this a few months ago, I only looked at the crank surface for some reason. I have ordered the thin seal you recommended. Hopefully, that will take care of it. Thanks again for the video.
I finally got everything put back together and there is no oil pressure on the gauge in the truck. Engine runs great, no knocks or anything. Is there an easy way to check the oil pressure? I can't imagine why there wouldn't be oil pressure.
I originally got it from harbor freight, but I don't see it listed on their site any more. The best thing by far is to make or buy a pulley holder that bolts to the crankshaft pulley and holds it still while you tighten or loosen the nut.
You have a very good method of teaching can you show us how to exchange the old igniter for a GM made igniter since the old ones have a tendency to go out and they're extremely hard to find now ? this would be greatly appreciated
I've actually helped with the GM igniter and coil swap once before about 13 years ago in a buddy's rig. It's still going strong. If I ever get a chance to do it again I'll film it.
@@WheeliePete yes sir please do I'm in the middle of ripping my truck apart now and I'm getting ready to change the distributor just to make sure that this is not the problem but I have a feeling this ignitor is bad and I can't find one for anything less than $300 online
I love your videos and your knowledge is superb. You also explain a lot better than most of these rip shots on TH-cam. You have a very good way of explaining what you're doing to make it understandable for us people who don't understand the proper terms. I just wish I would have ran into you earlier. If you're looking to film you can come to Texas and we can do mine and I'll pay you
@@WheeliePete update... It was the distributor but that's still doesn't hide the fact that those igniters will go out at any given time so I'll be looking forward to your new video unless you want to come down here and do it to mine and film it
Thanks for the video! Unfortunately, I didn't push the seal in all the way. I pushed it in flush. The seal either started spinning, or went it crooked. Oh well. New harmonic balancer on the way.
Pete, I dropped my 89 4Runner off at a mechanic shop. He looked under and said the oil pump is leaking. I think I overfilled the oil a bit the day before I saw the leak. I came home and saw your video. Is this something I can do without removing radiator and hoses? What would be a reasonable charge to have a shop do it? Thanks
It can be done with the radiator and hoses in place, but that will depend on what kind of tools you have to get the crankshaft pulley off. That can be tricky with the radiator in place if you don't have the actual tools specific to that job. Most shops these days are going to charge on a set book rate for an hourly estimate against their shop labor rate + parts. So that will depend on how much time their book tells them the job should take. The book will probably tell them to remove the radiator, but I bet they don't. I would call around and get multiple estimates for a front main seal replacement on that engine and ask them how many hours their estimate book says. Make sure you check what their warranty on work is because if they do it wrong it'll just start leaking again. There's a chance you may have to buy a new crankshaft pulley if your existing one is really grooved out on the sealing surface.
@@WheeliePete Thanks, that's pretty much what I was thinking. I couldn't find the required Toyota Special Service Tool (SST) on line so I think I'll get the belt tool you have in the video. I'm gonna attempt the repair myself. Thanks WheeliePete! I'm going to try and take out the "A" top bolt, and re-thread seal it and see if that was the cause first.
The oil pump is sealed by an o-ring so I just use a couple dabs of grease to hold that in place in its groove as I put the oil pump body onto the timing cover. The water pump on the 22R series uses a regular flat (paper) style gasket. What I like to do is give a light coat of Permatex hi tack to any flat gasket that is sealing oil or coolant. Here's an affiliate link to the stuff on Amazon: amzn.to/2ufScjF That stuff is sticky and can be a little tricky to work with, but it works awesome, is highly resistant to oil, gas, and coolant, never fully hardens so you can disassemble again down the road without a huge hassle, and it cleans up easily with acetone. I've NEVER had a gasket leak that I applied Hi Tack to. It seals everything up really, really well. Takes care of little nicks in aluminum sealing surfaces too. The only downside is that it's a bit messy, but you can control that. I usually put the gasket down on some cardboard and then paint the surface I'm going to stick on first, then I either paint the other side in place, or paint the surface that's going to go down on top of it. (I don't get paid to promote products on amazon, but if you end up ordering something off an affiliate link I get a small commission on the sale. Doesn't cost you anything extra.)
Hi tack on any flat gasket that is sealing oil or water (timing cover gaskets included). (About the only thing I wouldn't use it on are exhaust gaskets). The copper spray will probably work just fine though. I've just always used Hi Tack because it's always worked perfectly for me.
If the groove in the crankshaft pulley is so deep that the seal won't work then you'll either have to have a speedy sleeve put on it or buy a new crankshaft pulley with a smooth sealing surface. A third option would be if you know any machinists they could weld the groove and then re-machine the sealing surface. But unless you have a friend who's a machinist, it'd be cheaper to buy a new pulley.
WheeliePete, I think I have a problem. I followed the steps, got everything removed, and found grooves in the sealing surface. So far so good. When I removed the oil pump, however, the smaller gear was different than the one in the video. The middle of it extends out about 3/8 of an inch. Also, the oil seal doesn't seem to want to come out of the oil pump. Having tried the caveman method to remove it, I'm starting to think it's part of the oil pump. I may be dealing with an aftermarket part, seeing as how I got it used. Any thoughts? This is a 1984 toyota pickup with a 22r engine.
Unfortunately, I don't have a 20R factory service manual, but here's a little piece of internet gold I found: A link to a 20R factory service manual over at retrojdm They have a download button too which is nice: www.retrojdm.com/scanview.asp?scanid=104§ion=sst%20and%20service%20specifications
they just changed this part on my 1987 Toyota motorhome before I bought it. they charged 284.20 for labor 21.46 for the part 15.28 shop supplys Grand Total 345.55 I think they got RIPPED OFF ?
Seems a little steep to me. Depends on what shop rates per hour are. Also depends on if they had to remove the radiator or not. I've always been dealing with 4x4's with lots of lift so there's plenty of working room, but if it was a 2wd, with A/C, auto trans, etc...there could be a lot of crap and no access down there... Looks like they probably billed 3hrs of labor on there... Not totally outside the realm of possibility...
This is an excellent instructional video. Simple, exceptionally detailed, perfect audio, and void of obnoxious commentary. Superb. Thank you!
I was able to successfully replace the front crank seal on my 1989 Toyota pick up truck by following the instructions in this video. My biggest worry was getting the crank shaft bolt off the engine. However, the bump start method worked like a charm. Thank you for this video! No more oil leak!
Solid vid! Seriously I used this anonymously about a year ago and it changed my damn life. Part numbers provided? You're a saint. Came back here a year later to share this with a buddy.
Part numbers AND torque specs? You just got a new subscriber
Straight to the process no bullshit! Thank you sir!
This helped me so much, I’m getting ready to do the front main seal on my 1980 2wd and I’ve been looking for days for a video that actually showed what to do and explained each step. You’re awesome!
Im a 54 year old mechanically inclined woman and thanks to your video I am going to attempt to change my 1986 2 wheel drive pickup front main seal. Thank you for your video would love to see more videos on the 22 r motor.
WheeliePete, I cannot thank you enough for this video. If not for this I would have to had paid a small fortune for this fix. You did a fantastic job at explaining and the torque specs were an added bonus!
Thanks Pete, I followed the instructions on the video and stopped my leaking seal. and save me a couple of bucks. great video. thanks again
Great video mate, all the facts you need and none you don't. Double points for the genuine part numbers. Thank you.
I don't know where you've been brother , but I just recently found your videos on these beautiful motors and I must say you do one hell of a job by explaining and detailing everything thank you.
Imagine all TH-cam video was this good! The world would be a better place!
48 thumbs down? Nissan owners!!
Well hallelujah! A perfect video with all the facts. I am about to do a video on making this repair over on my channel but I will absolutely be linking to this one in my description! THANK YOU for listing the actual Toyota part numbers in your video! Here’s to fixing mine lol
thanks for helping me keep my old baby '86 PU on the road, this video is gold to me!
Excellent quality video. Very well done and edited, the camera angles and on screen text are awesome. Thank you for this great video, Jim
Also the hy temp thread sealant you mention on the top oil pump bolt is a critical component, thank you.
Picked up an 85 toyota with oil spraying at the bottom by the fan. Will use this video to do the repair, thanks for the info and clear instructions!
Thank you so much for this information! Worked like a charm and I was so stoked to not have oil spraying everything. You the man!
I love your videos and it's help me work on my Toyota 4Runner 1985 22RE. I've had it for 19 years and been too busy with my CPA practice to work on her. This neglect left me with some significant problems I've been working on the last month or so. However I've enjoyed the change of Lifestyle. Reminds me of the old days working on my Hodaka and getting ready to go race it out in the desert. The good old 70s :)
Very straight forward video.I really learn much from your videos.Thanks
My leak is gone, I had to resurface my drive way because truck leaked so much, the smaller seal fixed the grove inn shaft thanks so much
Thanks for helping us all out here Pete!
Really easy to understand wheelie Pete.
I've been watching your videos and love them all. They are very straight forward and easy to understand plus the actual video is outstanding.
dam i wish more TH-cam mechanics where like this guy thanks so much this helps out a ton :))))
Thanks for the video. My 1982 Toyota pickup was making a mess with the front seal leaking. replaced it last night, took a few hours. no more leaks.
Super helpful video thank you so much WheeliePete! Got my front main seal and o ring all replaced and I'm finally leak free. The PO had put a thin seal in but didn't drive it all the way into the bore. From the looks of it if it's sitting flush at the top of the bore then it sits about where the thick seal does on the pulley. Driving the thinner seal to the bottom lets it ride on a new place on the pulley and like you said guarantees it's square in there. One thing I encountered that you didn't get into too much in the video is that tightening the pulley bolt was a bit tricky! I used the bump start method to get it off and that worked great. Didn't need a pulley puller either probably because it had been leaking oil for quite a while and it was lubed up ready to slide off.
The most trouble I actually had was finding a way to hold that pulley still so I could tighten that bolt back up to spec. I didn't have a pulley wrench, or holder, and I left my radiator in so a regular impact gun wouldn't do it. I didn't want to wait for a tool or spend the money on a 90 degree impact gun and it maybe still not fit. Best thing I came up with was to block the tires, parking break on, put it in 5th gear, 4hi and then tighten against that. My torque wrench topped out around a 100 ft/lbs so just went a little past that and have checked it a few times since and it's stayed tight. I think I've read and understand that the bolt should get tighter over time due to the nature of the rotation of the motor and the matching direction of the bolt to tighten. Lotta torque going on there!
Videos like yours really help the average guy work on their own stuff, save money, and keep their rigs rolling down the road ;) Many thanks!
Glad the video was able to help you out. It sounds like you'll be just fine on the torque. You did exactly what I would recommend in the absence of the right holding tool for torqueing the crankshaft pulley bolt.
that was a great video for someone who is doing this for the first time
Can’t thank you enough for putting this up. Cheers
Nice video very Informative and clear. With part numbers and explanations 👍👍
Great video. Full and clear explanation appreciated. 85 4 Runner will come alive next year, I hope.
This will help me out immensely. Thank you!
Wow. Amazingly clear and competent instructions.
I had this problem multiple times with two different 22R blocks back when I had my '85 4x4 in the mid 1990s. I loved that engine, but the front seal leaks, which would spray oil all around underneath the hood, drove me crazy. Back then I know one of the problems I faced was that the quality of some of the aftermarket oil pump replacements on the market caused them not to work well and would allow oil to leak past the replacement seal (I tried the balancer sleeve but it did not solve the problem). I think the quality of the aftermarket oil pumps are better today.
Very clear instructions much appreciated
your the boss - top dog - top of the chain - brilliant video - thank you
This channel is great! The best.
love it. Thanks so much for you're straight forward video!!!
Excellent, thorough video. Thank you.
Including the torque spec and part numbers makes this video top notch !!
I'm going to comment just for the reach. Including the part numbers and info is great, thanks 8-)
I just got my gaskets and speedy sleeve kit today.
God I love every bit of how you did this video. Thank you so much, saved me tons of time and was super clear!!!
Video just helped me out right now as i'm working on the oil pump conveniently. thanks!
Excellent tutorial.
Great info going to do mine now very good I found this video. You are the man thank u so much.
geez thankyou so much for all the extra info!! seriously Great job!
very professional, Thank you
So well done........thank you much!
Great little video. really helped to show me what i'm in for :)
As always Pete, spot on! Greatly appreciate the time invested in your vids.
mikes85supra Thanks, I appreciate it. It takes me about 4 of work per finished minute of video (filming, shooting picture, writing dialogue, editing, uploading, etc.) to make this type of video. I make enough money off the google advertising to keep me wanting to continue making these vids, but I'm not getting rich by any stretch...lol (can't quit my day job just yet..lol.) If you're involved in any forums or groups online that would benefit from these videos please share them around. (The more people that watch the videos, the higher they climb in the search engines, etc...)
Thank you these are the videos I've been looking for
Thats amazing thank for the video
Great video done by pro with part numbers, what more could u ask for!!!!!
Tip: If anyone still has an oil leak after replacing the front main seal, oring and has ruled out the crankshaft pulley groove as an issue.
It very well could be the top bolt that requires thread sealant. I just discovered this during my installation. It is 100% coming from said bolt. I was able to see it with an inspection mirror. I did not let my sealed cure both times I have tried to remedy the issue. Third times a charm, but i plan on letting it cure for as long a possible. 8 hours after work :) (Its my daily driver)
Its hard to believe it could leak so much, but i was counting a drop every couple of seconds. Plus it runs down and gives the appearance that its coming from the main seal or o-ring.
Note: i have tried Peratex high temp with no success.
I will be trying Loctite thread sealant PST stick 37615 next. It worked great for my oil pressure sensor, and I believe it cures a little faster than the permatex. I will update after I give it a shot.
The permatex has always worked well for me, but I do clean the bolt pretty well before install. Let us know how the Loctite thread sealant works for you and if it does I'll add it to the video description links too.
@@WheeliePete What are you cleaning the hole with Pete? I thought about q-tip and acetone. Or just draining the oil and spraying a bunch of aerosol acetone through.
If you've got the pump off a q-tip and acetone should do the trick. I also would make sure you've got the right bolt up in that hole. If I remember right, that's the bolt that if it's too long can go through and butt up against the timing chain tensioner and cause problems. The leak you're describing almost makes me think somone swapped in a bolt that is slightly too long and it's bottoming out right as it almost looks like it's down all the way, fooling the installer into thinking it's tight when it's just touching something on the inside. Does that make sense? I had a similar situation on a transfer case where a stone guard was removed from under a bolt and then the bolt was run back down, but it bottomed out before it got tight and then started leaking gear oil through the bolt. You can take a skinny screwdriver and use it as a depth gauge and then compare that against the bolt and see if maybe that's the problem (bolt too long).
Great videos thank you for your help even 2 years later lol !!!!
Thanks so much, you probably saved me a lot of time and money.
Great tutorial video , very well thought out and informative. Good work practices! I'm driving in 86 4Runner with Factory Turbo
FYI guys I'm deep into a rebuild of my 22re and if you get the Toyota OEM overhaul seals kit (got mine from camelback Toyota parts for 156$ and it has damn near every seal you will need including these shallower main seals for front and rear and putting them on the way Pete shows has them riding just behind the groove from the old seal. I'd say this tutorial is quite actuate.
These are great videos, I have a 1988 toyota pickup 2wd. There is nothing wrong with it right now, it's just nice to know for future reference. The only complaint I have about my truck is that it's a 4 speed manual, I would like to put a 5 speed in it.
I install the pump with 2 loose bolts then install the pulley lightly to center the pump/seal...tighten the 2 bolts, remove pulley and install the rest of the bolts, torq to spec...This makes sure the seal is centered on the seal surface of the pulley, if its not centered it will leak.....And beware doing the bump start to remove the crank bolt....You can F up the flywheel and or starter,,,I only use it as a last resort after trying a little heat to the bolt and light taps on it...I took a thick piece of 1/4" steel flat bar, drilled 2 15mm holes spaced to fit 2 of the pulley cutouts(where you put the drift) and ground out a haft moon to let the socket go by, install 2 14mm bolts with nuts in the 2 holes and use as a holder, the bolts going into the cutouts and the bar against the socket side....Doesnt F up the dust seal....
Thanks, very instructive video, Hats off.
Love your videos pete, and i dont even have a 22RE. At least not yet. If you havent done one already, a birf rebuild vid would be great.
JaffaCakes Thanks man, you mean you want to see how to actually take apart the inner cages and balls of the birfield? It's kind of cool how that little jigsaw puzzle goes together. I've got one sitting on the bench right now. I'll put that on the video idea list. :-)
Yes sir, that and even a basic rebuild when the leaks start coming down the birfs would be great. Could you also mention what kind of greases you use for different applications? I dont always know what type is right to use.
JaffaCakes I've got a video already on the inner axle seals (which when they fail is what causes the knuckles to leak gear oil.) th-cam.com/video/qevb7w9pUdk/w-d-xo.html As for grease to pack a birfield with, I just use whatever high-temp grease I have close by. I just keep jamming it into the birfield until it spurts back out between the cages. The factory service manual calls for filling the knuckle with grease through that fill plug, but that just makes a nasty mess if you have to get back in there so what I do is clean it all out, grease the bearings (upper and lower trunion) and then make sure a light coat of grease is spread on all surfaces so they don't get rusty. This is a good way to do it if you are into the knuckles on a regular basis (at least once a year if you do any deep water crossings).
JaffaCakes I don't have one either. With any luck he'll get into M series motors and make some slick vids i can put to use.
+WheeliePete I have a first gen with a 20R now! Replacing the timing chain this weekend. Again, real glad you made these vids. Cheers.
brilliant ..your the best on you tube
great video thanks
New Subscriber, thanks for the help.
Thanks for sharing. well explained.
You're super informative. Thanks!
Excallent video! I appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. One question though: when putting in the new thinner seal, if you drive it all the way in, won't the back lip of the seal be in the groove and have a chance to leak again? It would have to stay out a bit to avoid this. Thanks for any reply on this.
The seal being square in the bore is more important than trying to drive it to a specific depth to avoid the groove. It's easy to drive the seal square either flush with the surface of the oil pump housing or all the way to the bottom. If the seal is even a little bit cocked, it's going to leak really quick. Generally speaking if the seal that's coming out was a thick one that was flush with the top of the oil pump housing and you replace it with a thinner one driven to the bottom of the bore, the groove in the crankshaft pulley isn't a problem. If it does start leaking again you'll probably need to get a new crankshaft pulley or speedi-sleeve it, or have the groove welded up and turned back down by a machinist (although unless you are a welder/machinist that option is going to be way more expensive than just getting a new crankshaft pulley.)
Great video
That a great trick. Thanks again pete
Cool video!
Removing oil pump not necessary but thanks for all the tips!
It's not necessary to remove the oil pump, but it's easy to do and gives you a chance to inspect your oil pump gears while it's off the engine. Removing the oil pump also lets you drive the seal perfectly into the bore with a seal driver, something you can't do if the crank is in the way.
Thanks. Help me fix my front seal oil leak.
Hey. Thanks for this video, it is straightforward, well-paced, and expertly done!!! I am going to be replacing the front main seal on my 1990 toyota pickup 22re and in my Chilton guide it says that I ought to take off the oil pan before removing the drive belts and the crankshaft pulley. Would you recommend that? (I may have a leak there, too, in which case I will do it anyways, but was wondering if it was necessary for the front main.)
+Eli Edleson-Stein Unless you have a confirmed oil pan leak I would NOT take the pan off. I have a 1992 4x4 also and you do not need to remove the pan to get at the front main seal. Sent you a private message also with some information you may want.
Does anyone know if you have to drain the oil to change this? Or it doesnt matter?
The pump is above the oil level in the pan so you technically don't have to drain the oil. There will be some drainage when you pull the pump off the front of the timing cover from oil trapped in the pump body and oil passages.
@@WheeliePete ok thanks. I couldn't find the answer on any forums.
Great video, highly informative.
Thanks Mark cool video.
I have a Question for you maybe you can answer. I have a Toyota with a 22 RE in it and I’m having problems with it overheating. as I was taking it apart to check the head gasket I noticed that when I took the oil filter off it didn’t have any oil in it at all. Do you have any idea what would cause something like that?
Oil filter have an anti-drainback valve (flap) in it? If the filter doesn't have an anit-drainback flap (or if it's not working right) the oil can flow out of the filter and back to the pan. The idea there is that the filter should be holding oil in it so it's full on the next startup. There was oil in the pan, right? No oil circulation in the system would cause a major damage, not just overheating.
Awsome video
What type of grease do you recommend for the inside lip and spring of the main seal? Also is assembly lube recommended for the outer lip of the seal when seating?
I usually just use whatever bearing grease is close at hand for the seal lips. As long as it's safe for o-rings you'll be fine. Technically you are supposed to grease the outside diameter of the rubber seal lightly before you drive it in, but I've never had a problem cleaning the surfaces and driving them in dry. A little bit of lubrication on the outside of the seal will help it go in easily though. I personally like to dry fit them to ensure they don't come back out on their own, but you can booger them up if you're not careful. Probably best to just put a very light coat of grease on the OD of the seal before you drive it in.
good video and great job!!!!!!
Getting ready to do mines. O my 93 4wd going with the Toyota oem
How long does this repair take?
Subscribed 👍
Hey Pete, great tips and great videos that you put out. Do you have a video on removing and replacing the timing cover on a 22RE engine? I have a 1993 2wd pickup that is spewing 2 quarts of oil a week all over the place. I have been told that the oil pump seal is leaking but I suspect that the timing cover is also losing oil. Thank you for all the great information that you provide.
+4phishn If you're losing oil that fast it is most likely the front main seal, or the o-ring behind the oil pump is pinched. Video covers that. You're timing cover would probably need to be broken to lose that much oil from a timing cover and you would probably be able to see it puking out the crack.. With that much oil coming out it's probably the front main seal. When the front main goes bad, oil leaks onto the spinning crankshaft pulley and gets flung everywhere. Do you have oil on the underside of the hood? Front main seal for sure.
@WheeliePete, I just ran into the same problem @Ben Hanley (down below) had. I was all set putting the new Aisin oil pump on and got all four bolts torqued bottom part of the pump and started torquing the top bolt (through the timing chain cover). Had some resistance and going good, then it just slipped and kept free spinning. Took the bolt out along with the aluminum threads from the timing chain cover. I am, pretty sure a shop tried to correct a previous oil leak by over tightening.
Either way, now I have the dilemma of should I put a helicoil in now or do I chance messing a bunch of stuff up by removing the timing chain cover to install helicoil? Can't find a good helpful video on this.
I've never done a thread repair on that hole, but I bet it could be done with the oil pump off and just be really careful about shavings and try not to break the tang of the helicoil off and have it fall into the engine. Removing the timing cover with the head in place can be done, but it's tricky because of the head gasket overlap at the top of the timing cover (junction of the head, timing cover and block.) If you booger up the head gasket right there you'll end up with another oil leak. If you're going to go that far into it you might as well replace the timing chain, guides, etc. The other thing you really have to watch out for is there's a hidden bolt in the head that sits in a puddle of oil under the distributor drive gear. That bolt is through the head and into the top edge of the timing cover. People often forget about it, start prying on the timing cover after they *think* they have all the bolts out, and then snap the timing cover. I have done timing replacement though with the head in place, you just have to be really careful when you do go to pry off the timing cover and then make sure all your sealing surfaces are really clean before you put it all back together. One last thing, if you decide to get a new timing cover, and if you're engine has been rebuilt and has had the head surfaced or decked, you'll want to make sure your new timing cover is the same height as your old timing cover. If the engine has been rebuilt and they machined the block with the timing cover in place to match the height, then the new timing cover will need to be machined to the same spec.
@@WheeliePete Roger that, I'm going to attempt to helicoil it with the timing cover in place. The rebuilt engine has maybe 50K on it. I don't want to risk pulling it all apart not really knowing what I'm doing.
Spoke to a local mechanic yesterday and we agreed the less amount of shavings in the engine the better. Will get the tang of the helicoil out somehow. He stated that the oil screen should pick up any shavings prior to entering the engine anyway. I was searching for an oil flow diagram of the 22RE to confirm. I think I'll do an oil change prior to starting the engine once everything is back in place.
Thanks for the info.👍
a coconut water can is perfectly sized for driving the new seal. I haven't tried a full one, but it crushes the top edge about the time the seal's driven in fully on the empties.
This video was very helpful as I just changed my front seal, oil pump, and oil pan gasket due to an oil leak. But, I still have a serious leak from the front seal/pump area. Any ideas what could be going on? I did the job just like you showed with thread sealant on the one bolt and all bolts torqued to spec. I wonder if I have something going on with the crankshaft? The seal surface was smooth with no grooves. Many thanks to any ideas and thank you very much for your videos. They are amazing.
If it's still leaking a lot and you drove the seal in square to the bore, the most likely scenario would that the oil-pump o-ring did not stay seated in the groove when you put the pump back on the timing cover. If that o-ring is compromised it will leak a lot as the oil is under pressure right there. Can you identify where the oil is coming from? A leaking o-ring will manifest by oil leaking from the seam between the pump body and the timing cover. Clean everything off, run the engine, shut it off and look for where the leak is coming from. There will usually be some oil seepage for the first little while as the oil you put on the gears when reinstalling them will have run down over the o-ring and then get squeezed out between the oil pump and the timing cover during install. That should usually clear up within a few days.
The seal was already seated in the oil pump that I put on. It could be that o-ring. I didn't feel good about it when I put it back together. It's leaking too much to just be seepage. I guess I will take it apart again and reseat the o-ring. Thanks!!
Use a few dabs of a sticky automotive grease in the o-ring groove and then press the o-ring into the groove. The sticky grease will hold it in place while you put it on the timing cover.
Turns out the harmonic balancer has a groove in the sealing surface. When I did this a few months ago, I only looked at the crank surface for some reason. I have ordered the thin seal you recommended. Hopefully, that will take care of it. Thanks again for the video.
I finally got everything put back together and there is no oil pressure on the gauge in the truck. Engine runs great, no knocks or anything. Is there an easy way to check the oil pressure? I can't imagine why there wouldn't be oil pressure.
thanks i needed that and ill tell my buddy
Just to confirm I don't need to drain oil or coolant to do this? Thanks in advance for your help.
Correct. If you're just doing the front main seal, no need to drain anything (unless you're pulling the radiator for working room.)
Great video wheeliepete. I have a question where can I find that same pulley wrench??
I originally got it from harbor freight, but I don't see it listed on their site any more. The best thing by far is to make or buy a pulley holder that bolts to the crankshaft pulley and holds it still while you tighten or loosen the nut.
Thank you for checking and getting back to me I'll keep looking our try make something sucks we don't have a harbor freight out here in Hawaii.
You have a very good method of teaching can you show us how to exchange the old igniter for a GM made igniter since the old ones have a tendency to go out and they're extremely hard to find now ? this would be greatly appreciated
I've actually helped with the GM igniter and coil swap once before about 13 years ago in a buddy's rig. It's still going strong. If I ever get a chance to do it again I'll film it.
@@WheeliePete yes sir please do I'm in the middle of ripping my truck apart now and I'm getting ready to change the distributor just to make sure that this is not the problem but I have a feeling this ignitor is bad and I can't find one for anything less than $300 online
I love your videos and your knowledge is superb. You also explain a lot better than most of these rip shots on TH-cam. You have a very good way of explaining what you're doing to make it understandable for us people who don't understand the proper terms. I just wish I would have ran into you earlier. If you're looking to film you can come to Texas and we can do mine and I'll pay you
@@WheeliePete update... It was the distributor but that's still doesn't hide the fact that those igniters will go out at any given time so I'll be looking forward to your new video unless you want to come down here and do it to mine and film it
Thanks for the video! Unfortunately, I didn't push the seal in all the way. I pushed it in flush.
The seal either started spinning, or went it crooked. Oh well.
New harmonic balancer on the way.
Pete, I dropped my 89 4Runner off at a mechanic shop. He looked under and said the oil pump is leaking. I think I overfilled the oil a bit the day before I saw the leak. I came home and saw your video. Is this something I can do without removing radiator and hoses? What would be a reasonable charge to have a shop do it?
Thanks
It can be done with the radiator and hoses in place, but that will depend on what kind of tools you have to get the crankshaft pulley off. That can be tricky with the radiator in place if you don't have the actual tools specific to that job. Most shops these days are going to charge on a set book rate for an hourly estimate against their shop labor rate + parts. So that will depend on how much time their book tells them the job should take. The book will probably tell them to remove the radiator, but I bet they don't. I would call around and get multiple estimates for a front main seal replacement on that engine and ask them how many hours their estimate book says. Make sure you check what their warranty on work is because if they do it wrong it'll just start leaking again. There's a chance you may have to buy a new crankshaft pulley if your existing one is really grooved out on the sealing surface.
@@WheeliePete Thanks, that's pretty much what I was thinking. I couldn't find the required Toyota Special Service Tool (SST) on line so I think I'll get the belt tool you have in the video. I'm gonna attempt the repair myself. Thanks WheeliePete! I'm going to try and take out the "A" top bolt, and re-thread seal it and see if that was the cause first.
Do you have to time the engine when you do this repair since it’s messing with the crank pully
Nope. The pulley is keyed to the crankshaft. It can only go on one way.
@@WheeliePete thank you so much. Great video by the way
Hi Wheelie Pete, great video! Do you use any sealant or copper spray on the gasket for the oil pump and water pump?
The oil pump is sealed by an o-ring so I just use a couple dabs of grease to hold that in place in its groove as I put the oil pump body onto the timing cover. The water pump on the 22R series uses a regular flat (paper) style gasket. What I like to do is give a light coat of Permatex hi tack to any flat gasket that is sealing oil or coolant. Here's an affiliate link to the stuff on Amazon: amzn.to/2ufScjF That stuff is sticky and can be a little tricky to work with, but it works awesome, is highly resistant to oil, gas, and coolant, never fully hardens so you can disassemble again down the road without a huge hassle, and it cleans up easily with acetone. I've NEVER had a gasket leak that I applied Hi Tack to. It seals everything up really, really well. Takes care of little nicks in aluminum sealing surfaces too. The only downside is that it's a bit messy, but you can control that. I usually put the gasket down on some cardboard and then paint the surface I'm going to stick on first, then I either paint the other side in place, or paint the surface that's going to go down on top of it. (I don't get paid to promote products on amazon, but if you end up ordering something off an affiliate link I get a small commission on the sale. Doesn't cost you anything extra.)
Ah great! Would you recommend I use the Hi Tack on the Timing Cover Gaskets too? Guess I can take this $10 Copper spray back lol.
Hi tack on any flat gasket that is sealing oil or water (timing cover gaskets included). (About the only thing I wouldn't use it on are exhaust gaskets). The copper spray will probably work just fine though. I've just always used Hi Tack because it's always worked perfectly for me.
I've done had my truck in the shop twice and they seem to not get it from leaking do you think i need to try the slim seal
If the groove in the crankshaft pulley is so deep that the seal won't work then you'll either have to have a speedy sleeve put on it or buy a new crankshaft pulley with a smooth sealing surface. A third option would be if you know any machinists they could weld the groove and then re-machine the sealing surface. But unless you have a friend who's a machinist, it'd be cheaper to buy a new pulley.
WheeliePete, I think I have a problem. I followed the steps, got everything removed, and found grooves in the sealing surface. So far so good. When I removed the oil pump, however, the smaller gear was different than the one in the video. The middle of it extends out about 3/8 of an inch. Also, the oil seal doesn't seem to want to come out of the oil pump. Having tried the caveman method to remove it, I'm starting to think it's part of the oil pump. I may be dealing with an aftermarket part, seeing as how I got it used. Any thoughts?
This is a 1984 toyota pickup with a 22r engine.
Disregard. Got it figured out.
Got up from down kinda confused.
Good deal. Those old oil seals can be a pain sometimes. I have a hooked tool I like to use to lever them out with across a block of wood.
Are the specs the same for a 20r motor?
If not do you happen to know tightening specs for Toyota 20r motor Crankshaft, oil pump and oil pan?
Unfortunately, I don't have a 20R factory service manual, but here's a little piece of internet gold I found: A link to a 20R factory service manual over at retrojdm They have a download button too which is nice: www.retrojdm.com/scanview.asp?scanid=104§ion=sst%20and%20service%20specifications
Thank you
they just changed this part on my 1987 Toyota motorhome before I bought it. they charged 284.20 for labor 21.46 for the part 15.28 shop supplys Grand Total 345.55 I think they got RIPPED OFF ?
Seems a little steep to me. Depends on what shop rates per hour are. Also depends on if they had to remove the radiator or not. I've always been dealing with 4x4's with lots of lift so there's plenty of working room, but if it was a 2wd, with A/C, auto trans, etc...there could be a lot of crap and no access down there... Looks like they probably billed 3hrs of labor on there... Not totally outside the realm of possibility...
Hi, what type of grease do you use on the seal and also to hold the o-ring in place?
I just use whatever can of high-temp bearing grease I have laying around. It's sticky enough it won't migrate or fly out.
I have a 1979 toyota hilux with a 20 r motor. will i have to pull the motor to make this repair. it kind of looks like i wont but im not sure
Nope, you can do all this without pulling the motor.