After a week of picking glue and skin off my fingers from refoaming a pair of Infinity speakers, I highly recommend rubber/latex work gloves for protection. Some of the truly fine work must be done by hand though. Always wanted a Sony ES cassette deck. I have a decent Kenwood at this time.
Unlike the Technics RS-TR232 you repaired a few days ago, that Sony deck looks to be in pretty good shape with no cracked or broken gears. Just the usual disgusting sticky belt goo and some dirt from age. _" It's a Sony "_ 😎 and not a cheap model either. A keeper for sure. 👍
"E"sprit "S"eries "A"nalog. .. ES"D" (There were alot of) is selftelling. mostly already for sale RCA/Cinch Devices updated with Toslink/Digital Audio Transfer. My Uncle worked at Sony Audio in the Hightimes.
I always used alcohol,I thought acetone would melt the plastic parts,I know acetone cuts those melted bands,thanks for the tip,ya learn something new everyday,been repairing electronics since the vacuum tube days
I have a very similar if not the same model. TC-WA7esa I loved your video. I undertook the same exercise. Deck A is working fine. Deck B did not work. What exactly do you mean that you can't sandwich the gears too tight? Bill
Household cream cleaner (e.g. Ajax, Jif) gets cassette deck belt goo off fingers very quickly and easily with warm water, then you wash hands with ordinary soap afterwards. I've done that many times after re-belting a few Sharp, National and Sanyo decks which had nasty melted belt muck. Cream cleaner is less abrasive on skin than a powder and you only need a small amount to get the goo off. 😇
The "ES" Models are the Successor of the "ESPRIT" Series. It was Build to Highest Standards for also a Higher Price. In the early 90s they dialed the Esprit Series slowly down due to lacking Selling Numbers. If i take a Look in your Deck it is a Simple Standard Tapedeck with 2 Decks Recording and the so called ARL. That Deck has neither Quartz Direct Drive nor 3 Heads (Yes there were 3 Head Autoreverse Decks - just a few but there was some out there), there are no Motorized Doors nothing what sets it apart to earn the ES Labeling. Not even the Internals look different.
@@norcal715 Yes i had to agree about Dolby "S". Dolby "S" also cleanes out the Bass/Lower side of the Audiospectrum. B/C were mostly Treble/Hissing Reduction. And BTW: *ESA* is a acronym for "E"sprit (or "E"xclusive) "S"eries "A"nalog. So Buyers would know on a ESA is nothing Digital to it. There were also updated ES"D" CD-Players and Amplifier/Receivers. These were mostly already for sale Analog-Out (RCA) built Devices updated with Toslink for Optical Signal Delivering. That was the time when "TO"shiba"S"onyLINK was new invented. All the World says "Toslink" derives from TOS-hiba, but there was a Symbiose between both. Toshiba was the Main Force behind TOSLINK pulling Sony in the Boat for bring it to the Masses. "TADUMM the more you know" ..
ES was for Elevated Standard, a line of gear Sony sold built extra well & used better components snd had more features. Sadly it became a marketing gimmick when manufacturers started selling & making gear cheaply
Easy change did my sony Tc-We505 6 months ago great piece of kit ❤
this was their top tier line, the esa. very good decks once you change the belts. dolby s was good.
Sony used "Elevated Standard" but Japanese literature mentions "Extremely high Standard" as well. Either is good.
After a week of picking glue and skin off my fingers from refoaming a pair of Infinity speakers, I highly recommend rubber/latex work gloves for protection. Some of the truly fine work must be done by hand though. Always wanted a Sony ES cassette deck. I have a decent Kenwood at this time.
I hear baby oil eorks to remove the goo. Rub hands in baby oil, then wash off with regular soap
Superb work quite a decent twin deck i see it has auto calibration to get the best out of tapes .
Unlike the Technics RS-TR232 you repaired a few days ago, that Sony deck looks to be in pretty good shape with no cracked or broken gears. Just the usual disgusting sticky belt goo and some dirt from age. _" It's a Sony "_ 😎 and not a cheap model either. A keeper for sure. 👍
Boy, you got a LOT of help with ESA! 😄 The only thing I have to add is A is for Audio, as in Elevated Standard Audio.
"E"sprit "S"eries "A"nalog. .. ES"D" (There were alot of) is selftelling. mostly already for sale RCA/Cinch Devices updated with Toslink/Digital Audio Transfer. My Uncle worked at Sony Audio in the Hightimes.
TC-WE 805,825,835 is very similar to that deck.
I miss the TV repair videos. How come you don't do them anymore? Is nobody wanting to repair them anymore?
Exactly, not worth repair when a brand new TV is just a few dollars more.
@@norcal715yeah I hear you, that's what I was afraid the answer would be.
I always used alcohol,I thought acetone would melt the plastic parts,I know acetone cuts those melted bands,thanks for the tip,ya learn something new everyday,been repairing electronics since the vacuum tube days
Are there any VCR videos in the works? Those are my favorite, especially the non Funai ones.
2 in fact, both Funai rebranded, Magnavox I think. One is a DVD/HDD I believe though.
I have a very similar if not the same model. TC-WA7esa
I loved your video.
I undertook the same exercise. Deck A is working fine. Deck B did not work. What exactly do you mean that you can't sandwich the gears too tight?
Bill
Acetone cleans most everything except fingers.
Household cream cleaner (e.g. Ajax, Jif) gets cassette deck belt goo off fingers very quickly and easily with warm water, then you wash hands with ordinary soap afterwards. I've done that many times after re-belting a few Sharp, National and Sanyo decks which had nasty melted belt muck. Cream cleaner is less abrasive on skin than a powder and you only need a small amount to get the goo off. 😇
Goooff-Goopoff-Goofoff, I have some somewhere. My fingers are recovered now but ill try it next time. Thank you.
The "ES" Models are the Successor of the "ESPRIT" Series. It was Build to Highest Standards for also a Higher Price. In the early 90s they dialed the Esprit Series slowly down due to lacking Selling Numbers. If i take a Look in your Deck it is a Simple Standard Tapedeck with 2 Decks Recording and the so called ARL. That Deck has neither Quartz Direct Drive nor 3 Heads (Yes there were 3 Head Autoreverse Decks - just a few but there was some out there), there are no Motorized Doors nothing what sets it apart to earn the ES Labeling. Not even the Internals look different.
It's got Dolby S Noise Reduction. There are not many decks that have Dolby S. That makes this deck something of a collectable for cassette collectors.
That is the main reason I purchased it, even a non working Dolby "S" deck has value.
@@norcal715 Yes i had to agree about Dolby "S". Dolby "S" also cleanes out the Bass/Lower side of the Audiospectrum. B/C were mostly Treble/Hissing Reduction. And BTW: *ESA* is a acronym for "E"sprit (or "E"xclusive) "S"eries "A"nalog. So Buyers would know on a ESA is nothing Digital to it. There were also updated ES"D" CD-Players and Amplifier/Receivers. These were mostly already for sale Analog-Out (RCA) built Devices updated with Toslink for Optical Signal Delivering. That was the time when "TO"shiba"S"onyLINK was new invented. All the World says "Toslink" derives from TOS-hiba, but there was a Symbiose between both. Toshiba was the Main Force behind TOSLINK pulling Sony in the Boat for bring it to the Masses. "TADUMM the more you know" ..
EXCELLENT SOUND
was that a door creaking or a cranky cat
ES = Extra Stuff
The model number is very similar to amateur radio call letters. I don't see anything special to earn an ES badge on this model.
ES was for Elevated Standard, a line of gear Sony sold built extra well & used better components snd had more features. Sadly it became a marketing gimmick when manufacturers started selling & making gear cheaply
The degree of detail was significantly less than your usual standard. Especially for reassembly of the unit.