Just purchased a 2003 Honda CRV Se Sport £1800 (130000 miles) This is the first thing I would be doing thank you for the video, simply made and explained.
Just did my rear diff oil change today. Honda wanted £240 to do the job. My CRV is a 2017 model. drain on the drivers side. Filler on the passenger side. 35000 miles on the clock. The oil was similar in colour to yours, minor debris on the magnetic plug. Bought the honda fluid and a 0.5l syringe. Glad I changed it when I saw the colour of it. Thanks for posting your video.
@@stevec.2702 you're welcome. Any time. Sadly after years of service this car is now dead - I accidentally ran into a stag in the far north if Scotland, damaging it beyond economic repair
I'm on my 2nd Mk 2 CRV. This one has been fine, but I'm about to change the rear diff fluid anyway, because I can't see anything in the service history showing it's been done, and after 128,000 miles it surely needs it. I changed the fluid on the first one I had within a week of buying it - there was a hell of a juddering coming from the back, when reversing in full lock. It really sounded 'expensive ' and my heart sank when I heard it. Someone suggested I change the rear diff fluid and though I doubted it would work - it worked perfectly for the next 30,000 miles and was still fine when an idiot wrote the car off in the works car park. I always wondered what went on in that box - thanks for the explanation.
I used to do that kind of thing with my 1980 Range Rover when I was into off-roading, but my days of crawling under vehicles are over. I reckon my Volvo XC60 might work as you describe (it certainly never tells me if 4WD is engaged), but my Shogun is made of sterner stuff I think.
While you have the drain plug off, insert a pencil magnet into drain hole, it will help get those metal fragments out of differential. Also with drain plug off, run some clean fluid through fill plug to help flush out fragments. This will help reduce differential shudder.
just got an 05’ read this is a must, have you swapped out your air compressor? I read this can fail internally and destroy the a/c system, but I believe this was more common before 05’
Good one! Love your comment at the end, I learned the hard way back in '78. I found out that Rover V8's are heavy. I didn't listen to my dad about stupid Jack Stands. What do fathers know anyway? FAAFO 😂😂😂 Cape Town South Africa.
Thanks for this very useful info. I've recently got a 2004 CRV 140k I'm sorting out and having a bit of a turn judder (like CV joints but coming from the back) I understand a fluid change may sort this out. Also doing an oil change of the engine to try and sort out a power cut at medium revs which I believe, hopefully may be oil pressure/viscosity issues affecting the VVT system. If not its probably the solenoid valve? Whilst on I must mention the shocking rottability of the rear disc shields and the awful collection of rustable brake pipes located in a connection block just behind the engine - 4 lines pulled in 1 MOT!
Vvt system I'm not sure about, possibly solenoid related. Sadly the crv isn't the best designed vehicle honda ever built but equally the amount of salt on UK roads takes a hell of a toll on the running gear. I've just bypassed the PS cooler, which had rusted through for similar reasons. Good luck!
@@drawingboard82 Just an update on the oil change. It solved the power drop issue, no wonder really when I drained it out there was only 2.5L in the sump! I had previously checked the dip stick but was mislead by the way it smears oil on itself after you have wiped it clean. Going to try changing the diff fluid next.
Great question! Can't actually remember and don't want to go and check but think something like that. I just had a pack of washers. If you're really stuck you can get away with reusing them
@@drawingboard82 I had change the rear differential oil from the garage 3 weeks ago and I've just found out yesterday that there's some leaks maybe the plug washers need to be changed.
I've read elsewhere on YT about using both feet on brake and throttle to encourage AWD to engage and stay engaged. I'll try it on my 2006 ctdi if we get some snow. It sounds a bit tricky for off-road considering the car is not meant for serious off-road. Would take a bit of practice maybe. That said, a much under-rated off-road performer if you glance around YT and see what they're capable of.
@@webstarr4542 I think that's the driver size so the plug would probably be at least a 3/4 inch diameter. If you take the top plug out you can measure it and then pop it back in and get one... I'd do it myself but I'm away at the moment
@@drawingboard82 ok thanks - i live on a mountain in France so its painful getting stuff done ... trying to get it all together before attempting the job, bound to bugger up the washer/nut getting it off ...
Fellow ex mate lot here, You drained a 42’s gearbox of oil and they couldn’t fill it and they removed it and sent it back? Wasn’t that like a two weeks process, dry dock and everything? I’m assuming it was a gearbox on something else not the ships gearbox
Did you just jack the rear of the car up, or both ends of the car? I was wondering if I could do this job by just jacking the rear end up 👍🏻 great vid btw
@@dbldnii Not sure to be honest but I wouldnt worry about it too much. At least it was too much oil and not too little! Just fill it up again and drive away!
drawingboard82 no you didn’t. The RT4WD is 100% FWD but when a front wheel looses grip then the cars rear wheels play. The way you’ve wrote it says indicates the cars 4 wheels drive 100% of the time
Just purchased a 2003 Honda CRV Se Sport £1800 (130000 miles)
This is the first thing I would be doing thank you for the video, simply made and explained.
I have a 2003 Honda CRV. All fluids are easy to replace. Get yourself some tire ramps to help get underneath the vehicle. Good luck!
Just did my rear diff oil change today. Honda wanted £240 to do the job. My CRV is a 2017 model. drain on the drivers side. Filler on the passenger side. 35000 miles on the clock. The oil was similar in colour to yours, minor debris on the magnetic plug. Bought the honda fluid and a 0.5l syringe. Glad I changed it when I saw the colour of it. Thanks for posting your video.
@@stevec.2702 you're welcome. Any time. Sadly after years of service this car is now dead - I accidentally ran into a stag in the far north if Scotland, damaging it beyond economic repair
Very detailed instructional video, love the drawings as well !! 😂 cheers !
Brilliant demo, and all done with a sense of humour 👏
Thanks mate, will be doing this job over this bank holiday weekend.
Thank you for this vid. Very helpful, you made it look easier than I fear it is.
can you do your next with your top off?
I'm on my 2nd Mk 2 CRV. This one has been fine, but I'm about to change the rear diff fluid anyway, because I can't see anything in the service history showing it's been done, and after 128,000 miles it surely needs it. I changed the fluid on the first one I had within a week of buying it - there was a hell of a juddering coming from the back, when reversing in full lock. It really sounded 'expensive ' and my heart sank when I heard it. Someone suggested I change the rear diff fluid and though I doubted it would work - it worked perfectly for the next 30,000 miles and was still fine when an idiot wrote the car off in the works car park. I always wondered what went on in that box - thanks for the explanation.
I used to do that kind of thing with my 1980 Range Rover when I was into off-roading, but my days of crawling under vehicles are over. I reckon my Volvo XC60 might work as you describe (it certainly never tells me if 4WD is engaged), but my Shogun is made of sterner stuff I think.
Really well explained and informative video. Thanks!
@drawingboard82 Do you happen to have a full copy of the user's manual in a PDF? It's impossible to find online.
Sadly no, sorry! I basically guessed how to do this and it kind of worked out!
While you have the drain plug off, insert a pencil magnet into drain hole, it will help get those metal fragments out of differential. Also with drain plug off, run some clean fluid through fill plug to help flush out fragments. This will help reduce differential shudder.
Great idea. It's due another change soon, I'll take that on board.
Hey i have cr v 2002 is it ok if i change my diff. Oil since this is d first time to do it..
Thnks for ur good answer
@@jaycarramos2259 I don't see why it wouldn't be ok to change the oil, its only 19 years old if its an 02.
just got an 05’ read this is a must, have you swapped out your air compressor? I read this can fail internally and destroy the a/c system, but I believe this was more common before 05’
Ha ha I wouldn't know, I live in Scotland so never need it :-)
@@drawingboard82 this is true, Im in Texas so we need a/c here about 8 months out of the year
This is true. I have an 05 and my compressor failed two years ago. I just installed a bypass pulley and removed the compressor altogether.
Really thorough demonstration. Thanks man.
Really helpful and well explained - thank you! Do you recall the size of the washer on the drain plugs?
Google it.
20MM
AceOspades no disrespect but if you dont have an answer then, dont say anything smart please. Thank you
Good one! Love your comment at the end, I learned the hard way back in '78. I found out that Rover V8's are heavy. I didn't listen to my dad about stupid Jack Stands. What do fathers know anyway? FAAFO 😂😂😂 Cape Town South Africa.
Nice! What do you think using a syringe to fill with oil
You can certainly do it but it might take a while 😉
Thanks for this very useful info. I've recently got a 2004 CRV 140k I'm sorting out and having a bit of a turn judder (like CV joints but coming from the back) I understand a fluid change may sort this out. Also doing an oil change of the engine to try and sort out a power cut at medium revs which I believe, hopefully may be oil pressure/viscosity issues affecting the VVT system. If not its probably the solenoid valve? Whilst on I must mention the shocking rottability of the rear disc shields and the awful collection of rustable brake pipes located in a connection block just behind the engine - 4 lines pulled in 1 MOT!
Vvt system I'm not sure about, possibly solenoid related. Sadly the crv isn't the best designed vehicle honda ever built but equally the amount of salt on UK roads takes a hell of a toll on the running gear. I've just bypassed the PS cooler, which had rusted through for similar reasons. Good luck!
@@drawingboard82 Just an update on the oil change. It solved the power drop issue, no wonder really when I drained it out there was only 2.5L in the sump! I had previously checked the dip stick but was mislead by the way it smears oil on itself after you have wiped it clean. Going to try changing the diff fluid next.
Hi, how often should I change the rear differential fluid for my 2010 CRV?
Thanks
Julio Pina hey, I changed mines around 50k.
@@smooth_1233 thanks for the info, i will do the same.
Hello. Thanks for this vid. Would you happen to know the width of the pipe you used?
I think about 10mm. Doesn't really matter as long as it fits in the plug hole.
Hi what is the size of the drain plug washers? Is it 20mm?
Great question! Can't actually remember and don't want to go and check but think something like that. I just had a pack of washers. If you're really stuck you can get away with reusing them
@@drawingboard82 I had change the rear differential oil from the garage 3 weeks ago and I've just found out yesterday that there's some leaks maybe the plug washers need to be changed.
@@ranybarcelona2035 most likely! Sorry the only way I'll find out us by crawling under my car and checking:-)
Is there any way of keeping the differential engaged
Not without modifications. Also I wouldn't advise it on a permanent basis because there is no centre differential on these types if vehicle.
@@drawingboard82 will a honda integra k20a motor bolt up to a 5 speed Manuel transmission and be fully functional with no check engine lights
Sorry dude, no idea!
I've read elsewhere on YT about using both feet on brake and throttle to encourage AWD to engage and stay engaged. I'll try it on my 2006 ctdi if we get some snow. It sounds a bit tricky for off-road considering the car is not meant for serious off-road. Would take a bit of practice maybe.
That said, a much under-rated off-road performer if you glance around YT and see what they're capable of.
Thanks for that - good video. Do you just have the back wheels up, or the front as well?
Thanks dude. Just the back wheels. I reversed it up onto some ramps I made from spare bricks, and then chocked it in place.
Great info - do you know the washer size please ? can't seem to find it anywhere ...
Good question. Sorry I can't remember but it would be the plug size, whick I also can't remember. Sorry :-(
@@drawingboard82 I watched a vid from Trump land and the guy was saying 3/8th - of an inch I'm guessing - would that be around 10mm?
@@webstarr4542 I think that's the driver size so the plug would probably be at least a 3/4 inch diameter. If you take the top plug out you can measure it and then pop it back in and get one... I'd do it myself but I'm away at the moment
@@drawingboard82 ok thanks - i live on a mountain in France so its painful getting stuff done ... trying to get it all together before attempting the job, bound to bugger up the washer/nut getting it off ...
@@webstarr4542 I can imagine. Sorry I can't be more helpful. If you do find out please comment and I'll pin it so the next person knows.
What is the torque on those two bolts?
It should be 33lbs. I would double check your manual if you have it i think page 320 or 319. I usually do anywhere from 30 to 33 lbs
What torque pressure did you do the nuts up to please?
Didn't have a torque wrench but two fingers on a 250mm long driver...
Don’t torque these. Just hand tighten them then make sure it’s snug enough with the wrench. You don’t want to strip them
Just one point. When filling to a drainplug or dipstick it's important the vehicle is approximately level.
Excellent point.
love the diagram and knowledge thank you!
Fellow ex mate lot here, You drained a 42’s gearbox of oil and they couldn’t fill it and they removed it and sent it back? Wasn’t that like a two weeks process, dry dock and everything? I’m assuming it was a gearbox on something else not the ships gearbox
Most definitely not the ships main gearbox!
Did you just jack the rear of the car up, or both ends of the car? I was wondering if I could do this job by just jacking the rear end up 👍🏻 great vid btw
Just the rear end :-) I actually drove it up makeshift ramps made of spare bricks.
@@drawingboard82 ha ha nice :) I was wondering if the car should be level when doing the rear diff. I may use the brick idea too lol
Helpful video, detailed and well explained (Y) Thank you! :)
I loved the tea and medals comment. -:)
Hopefully your not doing any cooking with that crock pot any time soon! Thanks for the video 👍
Omg if I was your gf or wife id be PISSED that you used my Le Creuset pan lol thanks for the video I have to do this on my 2005
Hard to believe I'm single really 🤣
@@drawingboard82 when you're single you can put your tools thru the dishwasher too
Thank you. Keep wrenching.
You're welcome!
Cheers for that big help I'm going to do mine now I think 👍
Hes like.... I think. Lol
Great video this one!
Excellent very informative apart from ollyups?
Okay, thanks, appreciated!
more than a quart drained out when I did this. how is that possible?
I suspect that they somehow overfilled it, maybe by having the car on a slope?
@@drawingboard82 I drained it with rear driver side jacked up all the way
@@dbldnii Not sure to be honest but I wouldnt worry about it too much. At least it was too much oil and not too little! Just fill it up again and drive away!
Somewhere i read it takes about 1,3 liters so more than a quart..if i got my conversions right :D
Manual for 04 crv lists this as needing 1.1 quarts
Молодец! СПАСИБО!!!
Not sure how I feel about you nipping up the fill bolt when its still running out at quite a pace. Honda have set the level for a reason.
You make a good point. But luckily the car is still fine 😃
Great video !!
You ever seen the wild thornberries 😂
Wrong. You said the 4wd only works when the rear wheels slip.
It works only when say the front left looses grip the rear left would start to push.
I should have said, when the sum of the rear wheels is less than the sum of the front wheels the clutch will engage.
drawingboard82 no mate it’s still wrong.
The rear wheels only work when the FRONT loose grip.
@@searchingshropshire I think that's what I just said. I might not have explained it well. Basically the diagram I drew is how it works.
drawingboard82 no you didn’t.
The RT4WD is 100% FWD but when a front wheel looses grip then the cars rear wheels play.
The way you’ve wrote it says indicates the cars 4 wheels drive 100% of the time
drawingboard82 you said when the back wheels loose grip. It ain’t but it’s when the front wheels loose grip.
The filling bit tho was great tho.
Thanks! Also wd-40 isn't for loosening bolts, unless it says penetrating oil on the front of the can
Since it requires 1.5 bottles, might as well, flush the system with the extra 1/3 of the bottle.
I’m not going to save a 1/2 of a bottle for 4 years.
No sabía que a Jason Statham le gustara los CR-V…
😂
Nice
I can almost hear what you're saying
Thanks. Good video
สุดยอดครับ
Go Navy! US Navy, 1993-2003.
What I can’t hear you.
Too much talk