Good video, but some important things wrong. Reason you only needed to remove swaybar end link on one side is either side disables bar. Removes all its force just by removing one side. You showed clocking bushings, which is great. But you must clock them ALL, not just the ones you loosened to be able to swap shocks. Thus you might as well loosen them all up front. That will then make removing and installing new ones much easier. If you need to push down control arm to remove or install, you're doing it wrong. No need to remove rear upper ca bolts. Just correctly loosen all bushing bolts. Settling is bushings tearing. For same reason, you need to reclock bushings any time you change ride height. Therefore, loosen them all before you even start adjusting. Most importantly, as video shows, only tighten them with car at ride height. With that corner being tightened at ride height. Use jack to raise that corner until spring compressed to ride height. THEN tighten bushing bolts. Clock: Front: Both upper control arm bolts Frontmost lower control arm bolt (rearmost is compliance bushing which doesn't need clocking) Lower shock mount Rear: Both upper ca bolts Both lower ca bolts Toe arm bushing bolt Lower shock mount
crazy how this is a recent video. I'm looking at Pss bilstein for my 2005. Planning for a suspension refresh soon. I like the Ohlins, but I dont' like how the rears aren't designed properly for the car.
i really wanted the pss10 but i waited for 8month and finally vivid racing said bilistein wanted another six months lead time so i said fuck it and got the fortune auto super low and they are amazing.
It doesn't matter if they're compressed, they're just helper springs, its to keep the main spring under load when the suspension decompresses, for example when a wheel lifts off the ground, keeps the main spring seated. when the shock expands, so will the helper spring. not the best explanation but you get the point, it basically stops the main spring from becoming completely unloaded.
Great video. How would you say this compares to Ohlins? I've run Ohlins on bikes but never in cars, just curious if you'd be able to offer any light on that.
You can not compare to Ohlins my friend.I have HKS GT and you can not compared hks to Ohlins my friend.with the same token you can not compare bilstein to HKS neither.I have driven All of them 😊
@@dpgarage4501 Love your content btw and your S. Looks great. Also, thanks for the banjo bolt video. Something I want to tackle soon. Which tires? Any brake upgrades? I dont have much confidence braking with the added power. On stoptech pads and rotors. Have some raybestos track pads but very noisy as expected but stop exceptionally well.
@@lltysonll thanks man. I’m probably going to go with the Firestone firehawk indy 500 tires. They seem like a good blend of streetability and traction. My Yokohama s drives are bald on the insides so anything will be an upgrade lol. I’m just on OE equivalent brakes. I don’t track the car so it works for me.
The adjustment dimension 310 - 345 mm (front) and 205 - 215 mm (rear) must be observed strictly! measure from center of lower bolt to lower spring base
Love how detailed this video is. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for posting this. You have no idea how much it helped me.
Love the garage almost as much as I love the car!
Thanks man!
I’m rocking the PSS coils and have been pretty happy with them. Feels similar to stock but a bit stiffer and more responsive, which is what I wanted.
Great video, brotha. No wasted words. Just straight to the point and very informative. Friendly voice too lol. Thanks, man! P.S. Sweet ride!
Your S2000 is beautiful. Nice video.
Good video, but some important things wrong.
Reason you only needed to remove swaybar end link on one side is either side disables bar. Removes all its force just by removing one side.
You showed clocking bushings, which is great. But you must clock them ALL, not just the ones you loosened to be able to swap shocks.
Thus you might as well loosen them all up front. That will then make removing and installing new ones much easier. If you need to push down control arm to remove or install, you're doing it wrong.
No need to remove rear upper ca bolts. Just correctly loosen all bushing bolts.
Settling is bushings tearing.
For same reason, you need to reclock bushings any time you change ride height. Therefore, loosen them all before you even start adjusting.
Most importantly, as video shows, only tighten them with car at ride height. With that corner being tightened at ride height. Use jack to raise that corner until spring compressed to ride height. THEN tighten bushing bolts.
Clock:
Front:
Both upper control arm bolts
Frontmost lower control arm bolt (rearmost is compliance bushing which doesn't need clocking)
Lower shock mount
Rear:
Both upper ca bolts
Both lower ca bolts
Toe arm bushing bolt
Lower shock mount
crazy how this is a recent video. I'm looking at Pss bilstein for my 2005. Planning for a suspension refresh soon.
I like the Ohlins, but I dont' like how the rears aren't designed properly for the car.
Yeah the PSSs have definitely been around a while haha.
I’ve heard nothing but good things about the Ohlins as well.
Get HKS GT and you won’t regret it Ohlins are the best
Appreciate the awesome videos man. Would you mine sharing how you like the SOS turbo kit. Pros, cons, and things you saw during install.
I see s2k I press like 😀
Sick vid and car! Wish I had this video when I installed my coils, I just had to wing it 😂
What’s the wheel’s specs?
Good video brother. Because that will be me shortly when I order all new top hats and brand new bilsteins. Thanks great video for reference.
Nice video, I was looking into these. Also what size wheel and tire are you running they look very nice and I’m currently upgrading mine.
Great video
How do you adjust the pre load on these?
How can you tell which one is front right and front left
i really wanted the pss10 but i waited for 8month and finally vivid racing said bilistein wanted another six months lead time so i said fuck it and got the fortune auto super low and they are amazing.
dis you add the shocks on the hood? my ap1 does not have them.
Yeah I put them on a long time ago. I think they were just some cheap ones I picked up off ebay. They work good though.
Why do those smaller springs compress all way down like that? Time stamp 12:47
It doesn't matter if they're compressed, they're just helper springs, its to keep the main spring under load when the suspension decompresses, for example when a wheel lifts off the ground, keeps the main spring seated. when the shock expands, so will the helper spring. not the best explanation but you get the point, it basically stops the main spring from becoming completely unloaded.
Hey brother what’s the wheel setup on the S2000? Looks perfect
Thanks man!
The wheels are 17x9 +45 all around and it has 245/40s on the rear with 215/40s on the front.
@@dpgarage4501 Bit late, but did you have to roll the fenders or anything like that for them to fit? thanks
@@steelcandie yeah I rolled the fenders.
It's been 2 years.....I'm wondering how you like them? Do you still have them on your car? Any complaints?
Im still rocking them and Im pleased with them for a street car application. Ive probably put 6k miles on them and havent had any issues.
Great video. How would you say this compares to Ohlins?
I've run Ohlins on bikes but never in cars, just curious if you'd be able to offer any light on that.
I've never had ohlins so I m not sure how they compare. A lot of guys on the s2000 forum like them though.
You can not compare to Ohlins my friend.I have HKS GT and you can not compared hks to Ohlins my friend.with the same token you can not compare bilstein to HKS neither.I have driven All of them 😊
Hello, How are you? Could you tell me if it is necessary to remove the spare wheel to install the b16 on the s2000? Thank you
What hood shocks are those? I like how they don't extend the hood far back like the others.
They are just cheap eBay/Amazon ones. I picked them up like 5 years ago and I have no complaints with them.
Looking forward to your wheel set up. Will it be bbk friendly?
Just tires for now. Going to a square tire setup.
Might switch up the wheels eventually though.
@@dpgarage4501 Love your content btw and your S. Looks great. Also, thanks for the banjo bolt video. Something I want to tackle soon. Which tires? Any brake upgrades? I dont have much confidence braking with the added power. On stoptech pads and rotors. Have some raybestos track pads but very noisy as expected but stop exceptionally well.
@@lltysonll thanks man. I’m probably going to go with the Firestone firehawk indy 500 tires. They seem like a good blend of streetability and traction. My Yokohama s drives are bald on the insides so anything will be an upgrade lol.
I’m just on OE equivalent brakes. I don’t track the car so it works for me.
@@dpgarage4501 I have those tires now. Great tire price and performance. Have them on 2 of my cars.
can you show me how your turbo s2k drive please
You're bending the brake dust shield by lifting like that. You should pull the jack out more so you're lifting just on the rotor.
It’s kinda hard to tell in the video but I had the jack on the lower ball joint.
Can you share where you got the top hats please?
I picked mine up from 1A auto but you can probably pick them up about anywhere.
Link ??
@DP Garage what wheel size are you running please?
17x9 +45 square. The tires I had in this video were 245/40 rear 215/40 front.
@@dpgarage4501 super cool stuff buddy, awesome s2k
The adjustment dimension 310 -
345 mm (front) and 205 - 215 mm
(rear) must be observed strictly!
measure from center of lower bolt to lower spring base
Go with Ohlins for a few hundreds dollars more. Everybody says they're worth it!
only if they are setup properly.
Hurry up and post a video of the s2000 being driven when boosted come on man
What are the torque specs for lower bolt on coilovers. And upper control arms front and rear.
Did you need anything else to install these or just what comes in the box?
They don’t come with top hats. You can reuse the OEM ones or buy new top hats.