This was amazing! Would love a manufacturers video as well. As a coaster noobie it's tough to know how each of the manufacturers achieve their thrills based on their design elements.
I wish the game put in a contextual tutorial for this method. It feels like it's the easiest way to get steel coasters to be as smooth as they are IRL, which is counter intuitive to the common sense idea that you should use the longest segments possible since those should obviously be smooth with the game generating them.
Very well put together. A sub series you say? I would like to know the main differences or how to distinguish a kiddie coaster - family - thrill. Where is the line drawn? A manufacturer coaster guide will have you busy for a while. I'd still watch it. I need to know all I can! 😁✌️
It's a really good question actually.. You look at the likes of Th13teen and Wickerman - they are advertised as "Family Thrills" because of the height restriction, but Wickerman would probably be right at the threshold of that category. I wonder if I could find out where the line is drawn....
This video was a tremendous help to me. I feel like I can actually make the coasters I want now rather than fighting with the coaster builder to make it do what I want. Its a shame that the only way to build great coasters is so painstaking though. Also, doing this with M+KB on the console UI is very fast because you can smooth with your keyboard and only have to click to move the selection.
Oh no way!!! That's one thing that the PC version is missing... the ability to move and smooth using the keyboard.. It takes so long to do it otherwise!! Happy that this has helped though.. Hope you get to share what you've created some-time :)
I had made a 5 metre coaster just before finding this video xd. Its like the 5x5 Minecraft building trick Btw biggest tip: test the ride in first person and keep smoothing till you can see its smooth
Ahh yes, 5 and 6m works too, but you tend to find that for smaller coasters this drags them out longer than is needed... I tend to use 7 or 8 for hypers and 10 or 12 for gigas depending on how tall they are...
Just watching you smooth that coaster made me start day dreaming. My ADHD might let me make one or two passes over a specific area before I get distracted by making my hands sword fight with ink pens or something.
Let me know how it goes! Vertical Loops and Corkscrews in-game are decent enough to not bother doing custom... but the rest are fair game... If you don't want it to be so "drawn out" then you can increase the roll degrees :)
This video is amazing, but I have a couple of questions. Firstly, what's a B&M coaster (which coaster are you using in the build tutorial here, exactly), and are things like the turnaround also applicable for wooden coaster designs or other coasters that cannot invert? I've been having some issues attempting to recreate using a wooden coaster, and tend to keep having high fear spikes when performing turns.
Ahh, you general rule for turns is that you need to bank them and not take them too sharply... aim to take the turn at around 30mph-ish (that's a guide, NOT a rule) and make sure that they aren't too tight...
Really good question! I tend to use the in-built corkscrews and vertical loops because they're typically good enough.. I'll only do a custom corkscrew if I want a continuous roll or want it to be a hybrid between a zero G and corkscrew (like the B&M wing coasters) - for this you build a zero G as in this ep, but turn it to 11 degrees when you hit 135 roll, then to 0 degree turn for the 180, then -11 degrees when you get back to -135 and back to zero turn for the rest if that makes sense? The smoothing will sort out the jank you create here.
I really don't get why you insist on using banking offset when the smooth all takes it back out to smooth the banking. Just don't use the offset and you will have a smoother track from the outset.
Banking offset does not disappear, it’s coded into the track. The smoothing is just made harder to notice. If you need to see the banking offset after smoothing, the chase camera mode centers on the track and doesn’t roll the camera, so you can see how the train moves relative to the track and you can see the heartlining that way.
@@Nerdchacho first big thanks for doing what you do!!! I've applied this technique but after smoothing the track is still jerky at each "4m vertices". Visually it looks wonderful but im having a hard time to smooth the track. Any suggestions? Yes im on console.
@@charlesmartin8040 hey!! You're welcome.... so, some coasters need more than the 2 to 4 passes I recommend, depending on how compact they are.. the smoothy smooth will never be perfect, there will always be a jank in there, particularly with inversions; that's the nature of the camera and not your technique. But you can sort of deal with it with more passes...
Just an FYI to all Planet Coaster coaster builders! The 4 meter method that nerd chacho uses is for modern coasters who use computer assisted design tools. Coasters like the Looper, SLC, and wooden coasters if you want one specifically intended to be old, used simple circular or straight track pieces. A history lesson if you want one: Before the 80s, coaster designers had very limited tools to help them design their rides, so to make it easier, steel coasters would be made out of a series of hollow metal tubes that they would either keep straight, or literally hand-bend them around large circular structures depending on the size of the turn they wanted. If you pay attention to a POV of any coaster built by arrow dynamics, you will notice that the track is either a straight line or follows a singular circular motion. What this means for you is that you should make your track with large pieces and to never make any gradual changes in your turns. For everything else though, the four meter method comes highly recommended, especially if you are building any track elements that follow a specific formula for its pieces like zero-g rolls and airtime hills. Also, if you want to make a decent zero-g stall, all you need to do is make your basic version of it, and cut off your smoothing at the end of the roll in, and the start of the roll out!
Depend, if you go for 1m, its suitable for any kind of ride, even the old one since you can't get the bump in track of the old style coaster with bigger piece.
It will never be perfect with this method, sadly.. I have some coasters that need to go that many times too.. Plus, if your coaster is more compact (like a Eurofighter) then try 3 pieces rather than 4 at a time...
@@tommyp6627 totally agree. If I want to do a "Corkscrew" (Alton Towers) then I'll probably opt for creating one manually because of the continuous roll, but in a generic layout I tend to find that the in-game ones are just about OK. The trade-off is worth it vs the effort needed to make it completely custom..
Nerdchacho: “Airtime hills are cool because it feels like you’re being thrown out of your seat!” Me: “That’s not how Final Destination Three takes it!”
I'd love to watch a manufacturers guide series for the coaster types. Also, thanks for making these videos. They are fun to watch and helpful.
Seems Ok
This was amazing! Would love a manufacturers video as well. As a coaster noobie it's tough to know how each of the manufacturers achieve their thrills based on their design elements.
I wish the game put in a contextual tutorial for this method. It feels like it's the easiest way to get steel coasters to be as smooth as they are IRL, which is counter intuitive to the common sense idea that you should use the longest segments possible since those should obviously be smooth with the game generating them.
Very well put together. A sub series you say? I would like to know the main differences or how to distinguish a kiddie coaster - family - thrill. Where is the line drawn?
A manufacturer coaster guide will have you busy for a while. I'd still watch it. I need to know all I can! 😁✌️
It's a really good question actually.. You look at the likes of Th13teen and Wickerman - they are advertised as "Family Thrills" because of the height restriction, but Wickerman would probably be right at the threshold of that category. I wonder if I could find out where the line is drawn....
This video was a tremendous help to me. I feel like I can actually make the coasters I want now rather than fighting with the coaster builder to make it do what I want. Its a shame that the only way to build great coasters is so painstaking though.
Also, doing this with M+KB on the console UI is very fast because you can smooth with your keyboard and only have to click to move the selection.
Oh no way!!! That's one thing that the PC version is missing... the ability to move and smooth using the keyboard.. It takes so long to do it otherwise!! Happy that this has helped though.. Hope you get to share what you've created some-time :)
Sad tho innit. You literally have to break The game inorder to make something smooth
I've never played with banking offset.. damn. Thank you for this video!
I had made a 5 metre coaster just before finding this video xd. Its like the 5x5 Minecraft building trick
Btw biggest tip: test the ride in first person and keep smoothing till you can see its smooth
Ahh yes, 5 and 6m works too, but you tend to find that for smaller coasters this drags them out longer than is needed... I tend to use 7 or 8 for hypers and 10 or 12 for gigas depending on how tall they are...
Just watching you smooth that coaster made me start day dreaming. My ADHD might let me make one or two passes over a specific area before I get distracted by making my hands sword fight with ink pens or something.
BRAVO!!!!! im totally using these techniques... considering im HORRIBLE at making inversions lmaoooooooooooooooo
Let me know how it goes! Vertical Loops and Corkscrews in-game are decent enough to not bother doing custom... but the rest are fair game... If you don't want it to be so "drawn out" then you can increase the roll degrees :)
you really took the time to click the build button every time instead of left clicking XD
This video is amazing, but I have a couple of questions. Firstly, what's a B&M coaster (which coaster are you using in the build tutorial here, exactly), and are things like the turnaround also applicable for wooden coaster designs or other coasters that cannot invert? I've been having some issues attempting to recreate using a wooden coaster, and tend to keep having high fear spikes when performing turns.
Ahh, you general rule for turns is that you need to bank them and not take them too sharply... aim to take the turn at around 30mph-ish (that's a guide, NOT a rule) and make sure that they aren't too tight...
Thx for this. Really good and helpful explanation
No problem at all! Hope that you can go on to use it in your parks :)
8:02 how Togo builds coasters in the US
I can do the same thing not using this method. 🤔 I ride it smoothe it, ride it , smoothe it, check heatmaps smooth it
Can you comment on the prebuilt rolls and loops? How does manually doing these differ from plopping one down?
Really good question! I tend to use the in-built corkscrews and vertical loops because they're typically good enough.. I'll only do a custom corkscrew if I want a continuous roll or want it to be a hybrid between a zero G and corkscrew (like the B&M wing coasters) - for this you build a zero G as in this ep, but turn it to 11 degrees when you hit 135 roll, then to 0 degree turn for the 180, then -11 degrees when you get back to -135 and back to zero turn for the rest if that makes sense? The smoothing will sort out the jank you create here.
I really don't get why you insist on using banking offset when the smooth all takes it back out to smooth the banking. Just don't use the offset and you will have a smoother track from the outset.
You're not using banking offset correctly if you lose it when smoothing.
Banking offset does not disappear, it’s coded into the track. The smoothing is just made harder to notice. If you need to see the banking offset after smoothing, the chase camera mode centers on the track and doesn’t roll the camera, so you can see how the train moves relative to the track and you can see the heartlining that way.
Great🔥 there even is a mod that allows 2m methods or even 1m :P
That would be helpful, but very time consuming lol
the tenth circle of hell would be making a smooth giga coaster with 1 m sections lmao
The 4 section smoothing technique, is that possible to do on the console edition?
Yeah. I haven't tried it with a controller but with M+KB it's pretty intuitive
Yes, this.. This is your answer :)
@@Nerdchacho first big thanks for doing what you do!!!
I've applied this technique but after smoothing the track is still jerky at each "4m vertices". Visually it looks wonderful but im having a hard time to smooth the track. Any suggestions? Yes im on console.
@@charlesmartin8040 hey!! You're welcome.... so, some coasters need more than the 2 to 4 passes I recommend, depending on how compact they are.. the smoothy smooth will never be perfect, there will always be a jank in there, particularly with inversions; that's the nature of the camera and not your technique. But you can sort of deal with it with more passes...
@@Nerdchacho thanks alot!!!!
When i do this i get a bit of a jitter on rolls and banking although i'm not sure if it is beacause i have SmootherCameraMod?
No, it will be because of the 4m segments. It will never be butter smooth, that is the nature of this technique. It will never be perfect.
@@Nerdchacho Thank you, but i have found if you do 2m and smooth 8 at a time its better
Just an FYI to all Planet Coaster coaster builders!
The 4 meter method that nerd chacho uses is for modern coasters who use computer assisted design tools. Coasters like the Looper, SLC, and wooden coasters if you want one specifically intended to be old, used simple circular or straight track pieces.
A history lesson if you want one: Before the 80s, coaster designers had very limited tools to help them design their rides, so to make it easier, steel coasters would be made out of a series of hollow metal tubes that they would either keep straight, or literally hand-bend them around large circular structures depending on the size of the turn they wanted. If you pay attention to a POV of any coaster built by arrow dynamics, you will notice that the track is either a straight line or follows a singular circular motion.
What this means for you is that you should make your track with large pieces and to never make any gradual changes in your turns.
For everything else though, the four meter method comes highly recommended, especially if you are building any track elements that follow a specific formula for its pieces like zero-g rolls and airtime hills.
Also, if you want to make a decent zero-g stall, all you need to do is make your basic version of it, and cut off your smoothing at the end of the roll in, and the start of the roll out!
Depend, if you go for 1m, its suitable for any kind of ride, even the old one since you can't get the bump in track of the old style coaster with bigger piece.
When I use this method even after smoothing it 9 times my coaster is not smooth I made an in version going it to it the coaster would feel super janky
It will never be perfect with this method, sadly.. I have some coasters that need to go that many times too.. Plus, if your coaster is more compact (like a Eurofighter) then try 3 pieces rather than 4 at a time...
@@Nerdchacho this actually worked lol😂
my smoothing doesnt work like your im on xbox
The methods are still the same no matter your platform
8:07 Can you imagine seeing this in real life?
TOGO
Sorry that comment was a miskptake
8:03 can you imagine riding this in real life?
TOGO
haha, the thought of that inversion on, is it, High Roller? Ugh...
High roller doesn’t have loops
@@Jolei33 totally meant Big Apple haha....
Great video sure will help I would like to see corkscrews and the overbanked turns you find on spinning coasters I don’t know what there called
I tend to not use custom corkscrews or vertical loops - the in-game ones are usually good enough :)
@@Nerdchacho they look good but I find they go off too much at a angle for a old school compact corkscrew
@@tommyp6627 totally agree. If I want to do a "Corkscrew" (Alton Towers) then I'll probably opt for creating one manually because of the continuous roll, but in a generic layout I tend to find that the in-game ones are just about OK. The trade-off is worth it vs the effort needed to make it completely custom..
Nerdchacho:
“Airtime hills are cool because it feels like you’re being thrown out of your seat!”
Me:
“That’s not how Final Destination Three takes it!”
Love the videos man they really help.
Glad to have been of help! I was genuinely starting to think that these weren't really helping past Number 2... :)
Should some parts of a coaster be different than others with the smoothing aspect
I don't know what you're asking?
@@Nerdchacho okay I’m not good at asking question so on certain parts of a coaster like a curved turn should I have less smoothing than a zero roll g