Perhaps u am missing something here. Are you not supposed at, some stage to put some specific code on the micro controller? Did see that step in the video. And didn't find the code in the article.
@@ChrisHalden007 Hey, in the earlier video tutorials, he already showed everything you need to make a voltmeter like this. There’s ADC handling, OLED setup and handling, and after that, it just takes a bit of effort and thinking to piece it all together. That’s the whole point of these tutorials - to get people motivated to learn. I mean, sure, having it handed to you on a silver platter is easier, but that’s not how anyone gets better.
@ChrisHalden007 well, based on my tutorials that I mentioned in the video, you can copy-paste the necessary code together, and adjust it for your needs. If you want the code, you have to pay, I am not a slave to work for free. 😉
@CorgonCorgon Thank you! Finally, someone understands it. It is very funny that people are so demanding and expecting everything to be spoon-fed to them *for free*. If they want something, they can work for it, or pay me and I provide the necessary resources.
@@CuriousScientist So the I2C pins + 3.3V and Gnd are broken out on the other side for potential future use? Also, can it run at 3.3V from the breadboard rather than 5V?
On the other side, those pins are broken out for programming. My plan is that if I want to "mass produce" them, then I can build a small jig with pogo pins and program the circuits very fast. The circuit can indeed run from (a stable!) 3.3 V directly. You can skip the LDO and bridge the traces, however, I would rather not do it. I designed the board with the assumption that it will be used with Arduino-like circuits, where the default rail voltage is 5 V. If we really dig deep in the datasheet of the chip, it says that the rated operating voltage is 3.3 V OR 5 V. So, theoretically, it could work without LDO even at 5 V. But if it does not, and people buy my board and they burn due to overvoltage, then I have to bear the consequences. For my peace of mind, it is better to spend an additional $1 on those 2 caps and the LDO.
It's a good idea! The circuit is basically done for the oscilloscope, I just need to do some programming. Although, there's not much I can squeeze on a 72*40 pixels display. 😅
Perhaps u am missing something here. Are you not supposed at, some stage to put some specific code on the micro controller? Did see that step in the video. And didn't find the code in the article.
Sure, but there's no public code shared.
So what's the point of showing how to make it if the code is not available? Anyone making it would end up with something useless. No?
@@ChrisHalden007 Hey, in the earlier video tutorials, he already showed everything you need to make a voltmeter like this. There’s ADC handling, OLED setup and handling, and after that, it just takes a bit of effort and thinking to piece it all together. That’s the whole point of these tutorials - to get people motivated to learn. I mean, sure, having it handed to you on a silver platter is easier, but that’s not how anyone gets better.
@ChrisHalden007 well, based on my tutorials that I mentioned in the video, you can copy-paste the necessary code together, and adjust it for your needs. If you want the code, you have to pay, I am not a slave to work for free. 😉
@CorgonCorgon Thank you! Finally, someone understands it. It is very funny that people are so demanding and expecting everything to be spoon-fed to them *for free*. If they want something, they can work for it, or pay me and I provide the necessary resources.
Beautiful soldering shots!
Thank you!
@@CuriousScientist So the I2C pins + 3.3V and Gnd are broken out on the other side for potential future use? Also, can it run at 3.3V from the breadboard rather than 5V?
On the other side, those pins are broken out for programming. My plan is that if I want to "mass produce" them, then I can build a small jig with pogo pins and program the circuits very fast.
The circuit can indeed run from (a stable!) 3.3 V directly. You can skip the LDO and bridge the traces, however, I would rather not do it. I designed the board with the assumption that it will be used with Arduino-like circuits, where the default rail voltage is 5 V. If we really dig deep in the datasheet of the chip, it says that the rated operating voltage is 3.3 V OR 5 V. So, theoretically, it could work without LDO even at 5 V. But if it does not, and people buy my board and they burn due to overvoltage, then I have to bear the consequences. For my peace of mind, it is better to spend an additional $1 on those 2 caps and the LDO.
@@CuriousScientist Makes sense, thx. Was working on an article for Hackster on your device, so I wanted to make sure I got the details correct.
Oh wow, it would be super cool to see my project there! If you need any details, just drop me an email or a DM on Instagram.
Can you do a pcb tutorial video with a simple circuit like an esp32 and relay?😅
If you sponsor it, sure.
That's a very nice project! ingenuity and creativity at best!
Thank you very much!
Great idea and implementation!
Thank you!
Circuit diagram gives me 🎉
What?
@CuriousScientist scamatic
What do you want? Please write better sentences.
The next device to build might be miniature osciloscope or logic analyser 😅
It's a good idea! The circuit is basically done for the oscilloscope, I just need to do some programming. Although, there's not much I can squeeze on a 72*40 pixels display. 😅