The screw is only there to keep the bridge (top) plate from opening away from the base plate when there are no strings placing downward pressure on the unit. Maximum bridge plate travel is determined by other parts of the design. Hope that helps!
Hi there - it should not do that. Do you have enough down-force from the strings? - can you email us at info@madisonandfifth.co.uk with a couple of close up pics from above and from the side
@@MadisonandFifthUK I've managed to minimize the noise by raising the bridge, adding more down-force. The action is a bit high now, but it's almost silent. I think that the problem has come up because I had to flip the tune-o-matic direction, as there wasn't enough room to move the low E and A saddles for a correct intonation. When they where pointed in the "traditional" way the bridge didn't make noise, but when they are pointed towards the neck, being equal the height, it becomes noisy and the instrument looses a bit of sustain in D and G strings. Could a solution be individually invertible saddles?
forgets to mention the flaw in what the roller bearings are on. The bearings are not rolling on the base plate, what you're really looking at is a piece of metal in those slots glued to the base plate. Rather glued very unevenly and poorly to an extent where this paper thin plate gets a dent in it and the rollers catch in the dent.
Hi, @1:22, Is the stop tail screw (transit screw?) there just to prevent the top plate from sliding too much forward? I see that the screw is not suppose to come into contact with the top sliding plate. Thanks!
The tremolo bar is EXTREMELY ugly @ the base, & 'anti-human' @ the end (jagged edges). If U made the arm terminate @ a small curve like every other trem arm in existence would make your product look much better & U would sell dozens of X more units! The other extremely ugly thing about the design is the boxy 'stepped' look @ the end. U really do need 2 make the bridge a solid box shape 2 make it visually pleasing. The '4'th ugly thing is the 2 big 'travel screws' poking out the back end. U need 2 have them recessed or in a location where they do not stick out. The Telecaster version loox way better than all the others simply because of the entirely COSMETIC square base plate, but the ENTIRE bridge should have a square shape, not jagged 'industrial' looking bits sticking all out every which way. & WTF were U even thinking with that huge hex bolt look @ the end of the arm? That's so INSANELY GROSS! It is 4 these reasons I will never consider buying 1, so U have lost yet another customer.
The screw is only there to keep the bridge (top) plate from opening away from the base plate when there are no strings placing downward pressure on the unit. Maximum bridge plate travel is determined by other parts of the design. Hope that helps!
Is it normal that the tune-o-matic bridge stays very loosely in place? It makes a lot of vibrations when I play. Thank you!
Hi there - it should not do that. Do you have enough down-force from the strings? - can you email us at info@madisonandfifth.co.uk with a couple of close up pics from above and from the side
@@MadisonandFifthUK I've managed to minimize the noise by raising the bridge, adding more down-force. The action is a bit high now, but it's almost silent. I think that the problem has come up because I had to flip the tune-o-matic direction, as there wasn't enough room to move the low E and A saddles for a correct intonation. When they where pointed in the "traditional" way the bridge didn't make noise, but when they are pointed towards the neck, being equal the height, it becomes noisy and the instrument looses a bit of sustain in D and G strings. Could a solution be individually invertible saddles?
@@AFGalopp - I've had your email + pics from Stetsbar so I will continue on that email
@@MadisonandFifthUK Ok, thank you!
forgets to mention the flaw in what the roller bearings are on. The bearings are not rolling on the base plate, what you're really looking at is a piece of metal in those slots glued to the base plate. Rather glued very unevenly and poorly to an extent where this paper thin plate gets a dent in it and the rollers catch in the dent.
Hi, @1:22, Is the stop tail screw (transit screw?) there just to prevent the top plate from sliding too much forward? I see that the screw is not suppose to come into contact with the top sliding plate. Thanks!
Would you recommend lubing up the bearings with a drop of teflon lube every so often?
No, In 15 years I've never come across the need to do that. Adding lube could pickup dust and thus add friction.
The tremolo bar is EXTREMELY ugly @ the base, & 'anti-human' @ the end (jagged edges). If U made the arm terminate @ a small curve like every other trem arm in existence would make your product look much better & U would sell dozens of X more units! The other extremely ugly thing about the design is the boxy 'stepped' look @ the end. U really do need 2 make the bridge a solid box shape 2 make it visually pleasing. The '4'th ugly thing is the 2 big 'travel screws' poking out the back end. U need 2 have them recessed or in a location where they do not stick out. The Telecaster version loox way better than all the others simply because of the entirely COSMETIC square base plate, but the ENTIRE bridge should have a square shape, not jagged 'industrial' looking bits sticking all out every which way. & WTF were U even thinking with that huge hex bolt look @ the end of the arm? That's so INSANELY GROSS! It is 4 these reasons I will never consider buying 1, so U have lost yet another customer.
+Deathrape2001 You are extremely ugly too but you don't see anyone complaining!
ricomajestic I am handsome =) U don't believe what U R saying =D