You’ll be chasing these harmonics forever with these modified drive shafts and a lift as the entire driveline was engineered to work best with stock components and driveline angles. Decide what the primary purpose is for the rig. Build it as aggressive off-roader with all the mods and deal with the all the compromises that entails or leave it stock and enjoy the versatility it has to offer out of the box.
@@craigmclaughlin7870 you’re not entirely wrong and I appreciate the input! Everything can be made better, but just as is true in life, balance is key, no pun intended. 😆
@@jasoncouch2480 I’d have to disagree brother! I’ve rock crawled it already through some tough stuff, 7/10 maybe, and that’s coming from many years of extreme rock crawling! I hit my fuel tank skid but I did that all the time on my jeep with 40’s too. The goal is to keep it LCOG with good articulation, that’s why I’m excited for the @metalcloak kit that will be coming out soon, then maybe I’ll get 37’s on her with some trimmed fenders! 😆
@@thinpins1 really, mine was quiet with the factory shaft. I may adjust the caster a bit to see if it reduces it at all. Working on some other options.
@@Bodhigrenadier yeah I definitely get some strange resonances. It’s possibly something else but it is in line with what you are describing in your new setup
I'm sitting stock, 255/80/17 Goodyear DT RT at 45/50psi no vibes under any condition. The truck is laden with roof rack, and built out rear interior. I do want to install heavier load rated rear springs to cover the heavy rear load weight but don't really want to lift the truck
Sounds more like a driveshaft phasing issue. Need to look at input/output angles. Adjustable front suspension arms to change castor and thus pinion angle may cure this. To understand phasing see this: th-cam.com/video/Idk3BVDVHq4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FJGD60ztA6ctRpI5
@@Greg-e7e oh believe me I know all about it. The angles on this car, especially once lifted are pretty severe, hence the DC joints at both ends. It cured the single DC joint vibes and binding but fit not fully eliminate the harmonics. Unfortunately no one makes links yet to adequately adjust pinion angle, the factory arms only have caster bolts. The rumor is metal cloak will be developing links so I’ll definitely be on that wagon 🤙🤙
Driveshaft design is fairly universal across RWD and 4WD vehicles and can be replaced/upgraded rather easily as long as you measure correctly and use the correct flange and pinion yoke or an adapter. Control arms vary greatly in design from vehicle to vehicle depending on suspension design (3 link, 4 link etc.) and requires some careful engineering to prevent binding and allow for best articulation depending on lift and what you’re using the truck for. That said, it’s not rocket science and someone will eventually come out with some adjustable or “castor-correcting” ones now that people are lifting Grenadiers.
The factory driveshafts use CV joints. Usually people upgrade to stronger U jointed driveshafts to cope with increased driveshaft angels from lift and may go to double Cardon (double u joints to minimize overall angle that each u joint operates at). This front driveshaft uses double double cardon joints (1 at each end) so a total of 4 u joints for the driveshaft. Also he built with 1350 u joints which are some of the strongest Spicer makes for a standard driveshaft. I still think the vibes are due to phasing issue due to pinion angle. I’ll wait for a fix before I lift mine.
Super informative! Thank you for doing this. I feel like this is going to continue to evolve because this problem is going to become more prevalent. Do you have an estimate on cost?
With any lift, the angle of the driveshaft is too drastic. Causes vibrations and premature wear on pinion bearings. It’s a common issue and Ineos is not covering it under warranty.
@@peterjack233 they are CV boots, which are prone to short life spans and premature failure under high torque loads, articulation, and severe angles. Lifts exacerbate this issue. Pinion bearings and seals can be affected by these angles and potentially from vibrations in the driveline, which usually is not present in an rzeppa type booted cv.
You’ll be chasing these harmonics forever with these modified drive shafts and a lift as the entire driveline was engineered to work best with stock components and driveline angles. Decide what the primary purpose is for the rig. Build it as aggressive off-roader with all the mods and deal with the all the compromises that entails or leave it stock and enjoy the versatility it has to offer out of the box.
@@craigmclaughlin7870 you’re not entirely wrong and I appreciate the input! Everything can be made better, but just as is true in life, balance is key, no pun intended. 😆
The Grenadier is too low for people that actually use it off road , not dirt road driving. My fuel tank and front skid plate will attest to this!
@@jasoncouch2480 I’d have to disagree brother! I’ve rock crawled it already through some tough stuff, 7/10 maybe, and that’s coming from many years of extreme rock crawling! I hit my fuel tank skid but I did that all the time on my jeep with 40’s too. The goal is to keep it LCOG with good articulation, that’s why I’m excited for the @metalcloak kit that will be coming out soon, then maybe I’ll get 37’s on her with some trimmed fenders! 😆
Even stock some cars have a very slight vibration at 1800rpm I also find its more smooth in 7th vs 8th gear with stock setup.
@@IneosGrenadierWorld definitely smoother in 7th, pretty much non existent
I feel I get some of that harmonic vibration at stock height under similar conditions
@@thinpins1 really, mine was quiet with the factory shaft. I may adjust the caster a bit to see if it reduces it at all. Working on some other options.
@@Bodhigrenadier yeah I definitely get some strange resonances. It’s possibly something else but it is in line with what you are describing in your new setup
@@thinpins1 could be tires or it could be caster angle
I'm sitting stock, 255/80/17 Goodyear DT RT at 45/50psi no vibes under any condition.
The truck is laden with roof rack, and built out rear interior.
I do want to install heavier load rated rear springs to cover the heavy rear load weight but don't really want to lift the truck
@@jeffreyscott4564 airbags might be a good option for you. Other companies are working on different springs and heights as well.
Sounds more like a driveshaft phasing issue. Need to look at input/output angles. Adjustable front suspension arms to change castor and thus pinion angle may cure this. To understand phasing see this: th-cam.com/video/Idk3BVDVHq4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FJGD60ztA6ctRpI5
@@Greg-e7e oh believe me I know all about it. The angles on this car, especially once lifted are pretty severe, hence the DC joints at both ends. It cured the single DC joint vibes and binding but fit not fully eliminate the harmonics. Unfortunately no one makes links yet to adequately adjust pinion angle, the factory arms only have caster bolts. The rumor is metal cloak will be developing links so I’ll definitely be on that wagon 🤙🤙
Why are arms hard to get for this thing? If they c a n make driveshafts they can make arms
Needs cv joints like jeep
Driveshaft design is fairly universal across RWD and 4WD vehicles and can be replaced/upgraded rather easily as long as you measure correctly and use the correct flange and pinion yoke or an adapter.
Control arms vary greatly in design from vehicle to vehicle depending on suspension design (3 link, 4 link etc.) and requires some careful engineering to prevent binding and allow for best articulation depending on lift and what you’re using the truck for. That said, it’s not rocket science and someone will eventually come out with some adjustable or “castor-correcting” ones now that people are lifting Grenadiers.
The factory driveshafts use CV joints. Usually people upgrade to stronger U jointed driveshafts to cope with increased driveshaft angels from lift and may go to double Cardon (double u joints to minimize overall angle that each u joint operates at). This front driveshaft uses double double cardon joints (1 at each end) so a total of 4 u joints for the driveshaft. Also he built with 1350 u joints which are some of the strongest Spicer makes for a standard driveshaft. I still think the vibes are due to phasing issue due to pinion angle. I’ll wait for a fix before I lift mine.
Super informative! Thank you for doing this.
I feel like this is going to continue to evolve because this problem is going to become more prevalent.
Do you have an estimate on cost?
@@MrStrom20 the current cost is $2k. Will keep everyone posted!
Whats the problem with the standard drive shafts?
With any lift, the angle of the driveshaft is too drastic. Causes vibrations and premature wear on pinion bearings. It’s a common issue and Ineos is not covering it under warranty.
@@peterjack233 they are CV boots, which are prone to short life spans and premature failure under high torque loads, articulation, and severe angles. Lifts exacerbate this issue. Pinion bearings and seals can be affected by these angles and potentially from vibrations in the driveline, which usually is not present in an rzeppa type booted cv.
@@Bodhigrenadierthis is so unfortunate. Ineos was supposed to be the durable, reliable and dependable vehicle for long travel.
@@willito1211 it is but it is a known concern with all solid axle vehicles with short wheel base, especially once lifted.
We all run 35s with a 2" lift and it makes it a big problem. Thanks for working on this