This is the fix for the locking wheel problem (at least for me) I've posted this on other videos so that most people with the locking wheels will have some information: Had all the same problems with random locking up of the right rear wheel, and it showed up within months of owning a brand new mower. The cause of the problems are the "tumblers" not disengaging correctly. These tumblers are 5 tiny cylindrical pins that are supposed to disengage the powered drive system from the wheels, so you can manually push the mower backwards and forwards. What is going wrong is that there is too much factory grease inside the housing where these tumblers reside, and too much grease on the friction clutch (basically a rubber washer under spring tension) . In a short time it builds up around the tumblers and causes some of them to stay in the wrong location. Then, you move the mower around manually and that pin catches randomly because the gob of grease alone held it near the locking location. The clutch also doesn't have enough force to move the cam because it's so loaded with grease that it provides very little force to move the cam as well. One or both of these is basically rendering the whole engagement mechanism hit or miss. I took my wheel off. Disassembled the clutch engagement assembly and with q-tips and a rag, removed all the built up grease. I used what grease remained to lightly move it around with a q-tip to finely coat the surfaces. Not so much that you see gobs of grease, but rather a thin clear coat. Reassembled and now it's as reliable as can be! No more hanging/locking wheels. I tried every combination of everything to get it to hang and it wouldn't do it anymore. I even tried using the powered drive while manually putting reverse(pull) pressure on the mower to slow it down. The second I let off the power drive, the wheels released instantly and I was pulling it backwards freely. Steps: - Remove hub-cap on wheel. This caps just pops off. There is a tiny open groove on one side of the hub-cap where you can insert/pry a thin screw-driver. - Remove bolt. - Remove big C-clip. Careful. There is a spring under mild tension. Also, note the order of two washers under it. - Pull off nylon gear. Note black rubber washer under it. That is the slip-clutch. Most likely covered in lots of grease. Your call on whether removing some access is needed or not. I cleaned it and just left a fine coat of grease. It seemed to provide more clutching power to move the cam on the tumblers. - Remove small C-clip. - At this point you are removing the two-part engagement with the 5 tumbler pins. Don't lose parts here! - I took this assembly to a kitchen table with lots of light and cleaned everything up, getting the excess grease out. You will see that the pins like to stick, while some won't and will fall out easily. NOTE: When you put it together, the 5 sided cam has to be aligned correctly, or it won't fit over the shaft when you put it back together again. A little trial-and-error will help you figure out the right way. Look down the shaft hole to see how the flat sides need to line up. Just an FYI of how this engagement system works: The nylon cam basically moves in one direction, while the metal one moves in the opposite direction. If you look at the wheel, you will see the gears are engaged from opposite sides, causing them to spin in opposite directions at the same time. This happens when you manually spin the wheel in either direction. This keeps the power assist drive shaft disengaged. Now, if the power assist is driving the wheels, then the tumbler pins engage and drive the wheel. You can play with this when you have the wheel off. Just try turning each of the gears in opposite directions to see it work. If you move them in the same direction, they lock. Opposite direction, and they spin freely. Hope this helps. I'll do what I can to assist anyone that wants to try this out. A little mechanical know-how, a few tools, and patience are required. Steven BONUS FIX: Tired of that clunking sound front the front wheels? You know, that annoying "cheap feel" sound as you go over bumps in your yard? Pop the plastic hub cap off of your front wheel. Remove the bolt. Put a washer with a 1/2" hole over it and put the bolt back on. Repeat for other front wheel. It will take up the slack in the wheel on the black shaft. Your wheel should turn freely, but not wobble and make that "cheap sounding" noise anymore.
Thank you for these through instructions. I have the problem you are describing. Since I’m not very mechanically inclined it would help me greatly if there were pictures or a video although it may be a lot to ask. Thanks again.
@Bob Hi. Just watched the video. Interesting. But then searched for Part 2, found out your channel has only this one video. What happened? These wheels have a safety self-locking mechanism, to not let the mower move backwards on an incline. If you have a Part 2, please post it. Thank you.
Who told you these mowers have a "safety feature" to keep it from rolling backwards? That is the number one complaint on these overpriced mowers. The right rear wheel works as ir should when new, then gradually locks up, and over time it totally locks and it will not roll backwards when pulling it away from a bush or wall. That "safety feature" line is something EGO concocted to not honor warranty with this issue after receiving thousands of complaints about this wheel issue.. The 2nd largest complaint is the batteries dying suddenly within 2-5 minutes of running the mower after a full charge.
This video is titled "part 1 removing rear wheels" and yet at no point is wheel removal covered at all. The video starts with the rear wheel already removed. Pretty misleading and useless.
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This is the fix for the locking wheel problem (at least for me) I've posted this on other videos so that most people with the locking wheels will have some information:
Had all the same problems with random locking up of the right rear wheel, and it showed up within months of owning a brand new mower.
The cause of the problems are the "tumblers" not disengaging correctly. These tumblers are 5 tiny cylindrical pins that are supposed to disengage the powered drive system from the wheels, so you can manually push the mower backwards and forwards. What is going wrong is that there is too much factory grease inside the housing where these tumblers reside, and too much grease on the friction clutch (basically a rubber washer under spring tension) . In a short time it builds up around the tumblers and causes some of them to stay in the wrong location. Then, you move the mower around manually and that pin catches randomly because the gob of grease alone held it near the locking location. The clutch also doesn't have enough force to move the cam because it's so loaded with grease that it provides very little force to move the cam as well. One or both of these is basically rendering the whole engagement mechanism hit or miss.
I took my wheel off. Disassembled the clutch engagement assembly and with q-tips and a rag, removed all the built up grease. I used what grease remained to lightly move it around with a q-tip to finely coat the surfaces. Not so much that you see gobs of grease, but rather a thin clear coat. Reassembled and now it's as reliable as can be! No more hanging/locking wheels. I tried every combination of everything to get it to hang and it wouldn't do it anymore. I even tried using the powered drive while manually putting reverse(pull) pressure on the mower to slow it down. The second I let off the power drive, the wheels released instantly and I was pulling it backwards freely.
Steps:
- Remove hub-cap on wheel. This caps just pops off. There is a tiny open groove on one side of the hub-cap where you can insert/pry a thin screw-driver.
- Remove bolt.
- Remove big C-clip. Careful. There is a spring under mild tension. Also, note the order of two washers under it.
- Pull off nylon gear. Note black rubber washer under it. That is the slip-clutch. Most likely covered in lots of grease. Your call on whether removing some access is needed or not. I cleaned it and just left a fine coat of grease. It seemed to provide more clutching power to move the cam on the tumblers.
- Remove small C-clip.
- At this point you are removing the two-part engagement with the 5 tumbler pins. Don't lose parts here!
- I took this assembly to a kitchen table with lots of light and cleaned everything up, getting the excess grease out. You will see that the pins like to stick, while some won't and will fall out easily. NOTE: When you put it together, the 5 sided cam has to be aligned correctly, or it won't fit over the shaft when you put it back together again. A little trial-and-error will help you figure out the right way. Look down the shaft hole to see how the flat sides need to line up.
Just an FYI of how this engagement system works: The nylon cam basically moves in one direction, while the metal one moves in the opposite direction. If you look at the wheel, you will see the gears are engaged from opposite sides, causing them to spin in opposite directions at the same time. This happens when you manually spin the wheel in either direction. This keeps the power assist drive shaft disengaged. Now, if the power assist is driving the wheels, then the tumbler pins engage and drive the wheel. You can play with this when you have the wheel off. Just try turning each of the gears in opposite directions to see it work. If you move them in the same direction, they lock. Opposite direction, and they spin freely.
Hope this helps. I'll do what I can to assist anyone that wants to try this out. A little mechanical know-how, a few tools, and patience are required.
Steven
BONUS FIX: Tired of that clunking sound front the front wheels? You know, that annoying "cheap feel" sound as you go over bumps in your yard? Pop the plastic hub cap off of your front wheel. Remove the bolt. Put a washer with a 1/2" hole over it and put the bolt back on. Repeat for other front wheel. It will take up the slack in the wheel on the black shaft. Your wheel should turn freely, but not wobble and make that "cheap sounding" noise anymore.
Thank you for these through instructions. I have the problem you are describing. Since I’m not very mechanically inclined it would help me greatly if there were pictures or a video although it may be a lot to ask.
Thanks again.
The problem I have is that the self-propel seems to be "slipping". Doesn't always engage. Anyone know how to fix that?
@Bob Hi. Just watched the video. Interesting. But then searched for Part 2, found out your channel has only this one video. What happened? These wheels have a safety self-locking mechanism, to not let the mower move backwards on an incline. If you have a Part 2, please post it. Thank you.
Who told you these mowers have a "safety feature" to keep it from rolling backwards? That is the number one complaint on these overpriced mowers. The right rear wheel works as ir should when new, then gradually locks up, and over time it totally locks and it will not roll backwards when pulling it away from a bush or wall. That "safety feature" line is something EGO concocted to not honor warranty with this issue after receiving thousands of complaints about this wheel issue.. The 2nd largest complaint is the batteries dying suddenly within 2-5 minutes of running the mower after a full charge.
@@coloradostrong can't hear you.
Also don’t find the part 2. Mine just stopped self propelling. Checked cables inside and in the handle.
This video is titled "part 1 removing rear wheels" and yet at no point is wheel removal covered at all. The video starts with the rear wheel already removed. Pretty misleading and useless.