Back in high school I had a 77 nova with a 400 out of a blazer. I swapped the cam, headers, intake and a 750 holly. In the early 90’s people thought a short stroke was the way to go but, I read a book called “power secrets” by Smokey unich. It takes torque to move weight. I had a lot of torque and no much weight. I had the fastest car in school. Thanks Smokey.
@@jsteganius6969 Agreed , millions of spot on tricks from Mr. Yunick, I re read it with every SBC I build and I always catch something new I over looked. But I am not a 400 fan at all, less issues with a 383.
I had 3 400s u had to keep them cool I blew 2 of them before I put a huge radiator in very thin walls and hard to find now The olds 403 was a better motor when built right
Damn right 400 is torque monster my Chevelle ran from 74 to 84 then rebuilt. Balanced , bored .30 over , 202 heads . Ran 84 to 2005. Put out 443 HP. 😮 Total miles 335 000 + 😊
The thing about it. Even aftermarket blocks like the street SHP has the Siamesed bore design and absolutely no steam hole BS. The 400 running hot myth is on of the biggest myths of all time
@@davidjohnson6329 Then you had a problem with the cooling system, NOT the engine. I have a mildly built, stock block 400 in a GMC Sonoma that puts out around 400-420 hp. It runs around 170°175° normally and gets up to 180°-185° climbing a grade during a hot day.
400 small blocks were becoming rare by the late 80's for a number of reasons . The cylinders ran hotter due to the fact that there was no circulation between them . Due to the higher operating temps head cracking between the steam holes was also common . Also , due to the fact that the bores were so close to the head bolts , the head bolts would pull the bores into a hexagonal shape over time , resulting in poor ring seal . Finally , the short rods combined with the longer stroke would cause excessive side loading on the cylinder walls , resulting in excessive wear . That is why 383 strokers became so popular by the late 80's , because there were tons of used up 400 blocks with good cranks in them . I'm an engine machinist with over 40 years of experience , I will be retiring in two years .
WHEN BUILDING AN ENGINE DO YOU WASH OUT / CLEAN OUT ALL THE OIL HOLES ? DO YOU BEBURE THE BLOCK ? GRIND, SAND DOWN AND POLISH THE OIL RETURN PATHS IN THE LIFTER VALLEYS ? JUST WONDERING, ALL MACHINE SHOPS AROUND ME DON'T, UNLESS YOU REQUEST IT AND PAY EXTRA !
I HAD 2 MOTORS REBUILT AT 1 SHOP , BOTH ENDED UP HAVING ROD AND CRANK BEARINGS PROBLEMS, I THOUGHT CLEARANCES MIGHT HAVE BEEN TO TIGHT. LATER I MET A GUY WHO BUILDS OVAL TRACK RACE ENGINES , HE LOOKED AT BEARINGS , SAID THE MACHINE SHOP NEVER CLEANED BLOCK AND CRANK PROPERLY.
@@daviddavids3468 heck yeah I'd request it to be cleaned and I still wouldn't trust it and do it myself. Heck ,I worked in an engine shop and I'd still clean parts after getting em back for some job.
Brother you've been an automotive machinist for 40 years with a retirement wow great job 👍 & I had thought about becoming a auto machinist when I was younger but loved the water I ended up on oilfield yachts crewboats & offshore tugs engineer never got the package to retire on 😔 but yea great job brother. & let's get back to them 400s I've had one & it was in a Pontiac Catalina 4 door I want to say in the 70s and it was so smooth running engine with no hesitation what so ever. Period lol it sounded great with the right exhaust it was one smooth sounding 400 I've ever owned. Congrats on your 40 years. Now I'm mad @ myself but don't regret it tho I got to learn diesel along with gas living on a oilfield aluminum breaux hull built crewboat yachts. Good luck these days on your retirement brother 40 years you've earned it.
Built a 400 small block in 1979 with stock bottom end and added 2.02 heads, circle track cam with .537-.555 lift 247/252 duration108 centerline, 750 holley double pumper, big tube 1 7/8 headers and stuffed in a 1969 nova with a powerglide. That thing had so much torque it would break the tires loose at 45 mph! Could not keep head gaskets in it very long but was fun as hell for a 19 year old kid.
An awesome combo. Sounds hairier than this daily driven pure street combo: 406c.i. lunati 230*in/230*ex O.455" lifts in & ex. RPM intake 9.7:1 compression stock vortec heads. 750 HP holley. 2500 stall. Makes 427 hp@ 5100rpm. and 525 tq. @ 3500 rpm. Just a simple short rpm stout daily driven combo without trying for cheap. It would take more money to accomplish the same on a 350 and the 355 combo i have makes 465 tq. and 410hp and has precision work in the heads. XR276HR mild roller cam combo.
@@wildestcowboy2668 obviously you never had a real car in the first place! 340 darts are not fast. Maybe if you said a cornet R/T with 440 6 pack. But regardless, Chevy has fast cars also. But at this point you obviously don't know much of much. Sorry you got your ass kicked. Maybe part of it is also driving skills. Either you had a shit car but probably bad driver or both.
@@wildestcowboy2668 MOPAR = Many Other Parts Are Required. If the guy that built that 340 built your BBC and you had the 340 Duster you would be singing a different "tune". If you understood volumetric efficiency you would know how to make power out of any engine brand.
CORRECT!! Once a person HAS had their first 550+" big block, ALL small blocks WILL disappear in their heads FOREVER. There IS a reason that the likes of Pat Musi, and a bunch of the old school drag racers are building 900+ c.i. engines.... 😂 The game changes BIG TIME when large cubic inches are involved with a build. The end results are HUGE. My 547 big-block R's up quicker than most small blocks do, and has more torque to boot. Most people just scratch their heads and have an amazed look on their faces after I give them a ride in this vehicle. Even if they own "fast small-blocks".
Got two 400s. One street 427 6in rod 680hp 700lbs tq. One race 434 6.1 rod 750hp on 750tq trick flow heads. 750 dbl pumper. 1150 900hp 870lbs tq. Both Rev 7500 all day long and leave most in the dust. Best sbc ever!
@@burnychaplin4601 that's why they make manual transmissions with a variety of gear ratios , and for the automatic guys you change rear end gearing . Personally I want to build an even smaller version .
Always wanted to do that I believe that the 68 307, had a 3 in stroke crank so you don't nead extra thick mains just longer rods high compression heads with large valves steam holes and harmonic balancer and flywheel camshaft would be a tricky thing as now it's over squared
That's what I have in my old high-school camaro. 307, bored 40 over, 10:1 pistons, a set of double humps that I ported, and one step below the biggest hydraulic cam comp makes before going solid. Holy smoke does that thing run.
I have a small block 400 that I've had since 1993 and used it in my 1970 C20 Chevy truck. I did have the cracked head issue 5 years ago and I had it rebuilt but I never put it back on the road again because the cracked headed syndrome freaked me out and I didn't trust it. Thanks to you video I now know how to get away from the cracking issue. Thanks for the great info!
I've had one that I built in1987. Still runs just as strong today, over 33 years later. I have had the pan off of it twice in 33 years to change out bearings and oil pump. 588 eagle cam . 106 lobe separation. Torqueer 2 intake and a 600 holly. Iron eagle heads. Yes stem holes are drilled. Have ran headers and old ram horn manifolds. Power on demand anytime. Most time steet raced in a lightweight chevy ll . Would not sell it for 2 Ls motors. Will run on alcohol as well as gas. Good little motors. Thanks.
@@ryangulley1082 I believe your brain is "meth infected" bro! Yes, the ls is an excellent engine that is better in volumetric efficiency because of the head design. First Gen small blocks with 14 degree large port/valve combos can support 8000 rpm and 700 to 750 hp n/a with about 13.5 : 1 compression very easily.
The key words in my original response to you was "14 degree heads" which were never made by Chevrolet or GM. They are purpose built race parts that cost thousands. Speed is only a question of money. How fast do you want to go?
In high school , mid to late 90s my good buddy had a 68 camaro with a 400 , had 186 camel humps , gm performance intake headers and an unknown cam that wasn't very lumpy , but heavy sounding , th350 no stall and a 308 rear gear . . . That thing would puuuuuull! Very fast car honestly it was almost scary never lost a race when I was present. Great video
I've got about 10 or 12 400 small block engines. Love them. Best sb ever built! I'd never waste time building a 383 with the 400s I have. All mine are standard bore and only bore .020 over if they clean up instead of .030.
@DFV Louderilk If only more people were aware of how truly incredible the big block chevy is. The Mark II "Mystery Motor" was developed as a race engine. The Mark IV big block we know today is almost identical in design. So yes, the Mark IV is a race engine. Canted valves make it a power monster. All these sheep that go with the crowd witj LS swapping everything are missing out. LS does not have canted valves, they are lined up next to each other causing harsh turns and reducing flow potential. The most powerful V8s on earth are all hemis or something with canted valve placement. The big block should not be ignored
I have starter problems with mine changed the flexplate and starter still starts like crap tried shims and still any advice what I can do would gladly be appreciated?
@@nyc1655 what problem, are you chewing the flywheel or flex plate, ok shim out side brings the starter closer to the ring, move the shims in the direction that it needs
My uncle had a small block 400 on a 53 Chevy.Pick up everybody used to talk smack about it.We went on many road trips with that vehicle.Towing and r v never had any issues like you said if done right small block 400 is a good engine
I have 3 .040 400 sbc, found one when I was 17 years old in a 1968 chevelle deluxe 300. It was a one wheel tire burning machine and fun to drive. Wish I would have kept that car but young and dumb. Now 34 years later I have a 1982 Malibu wagon with a 408 sbc and it is here to stay. And it's a 2 wheel tire burning machine and yes it's fun to drive.
My favorite thing to do with 400's is turn them into NASCAR 377's. If the bore is good, (not barrel shaped or more then .040 over) use fat bearings and drop a steel 350 crank in it with 6.125" rods and forged pistons to reduce side loading, steam-hole a set of big valve double-humps with dual valve springs, solid lifters, a 106 cam with around 270 degrees duration and 550 lift. Thing makes nutso power and can handle 8600 revs all day long. The trans-am mustang guys hate us....
Built one of those for my sprint car back in the 70's. 400 block, 350 crank, roller cam and rev kIt, Chevy HP angle plug heads and Hilborn injection running alcohol; it was a stout engine.
Yes a destroked motor is awesome i have had several. My latest is a 351 cleveland destroked to a 330 like glidden dominated pro stock with it makes insane power the local camaro guys hate me.
Have read from some industry heavy hitters that a 377 with fill up to water pump holes and external oil cooler can actually help the stock block live a long time at higher power levels
I've been using the 400 small blocks in my stock cars, tow vehicles, and in my stop light to stop light boulevard street cars with great results for over 30 years. Show me a 400 that overheats and 99% of the time I will show you a plugged-up radiator. I race in the southwest where come race time in the hot summer nights when they throw the green flag the ambient air temp is still 95 degrees. I run a stock GM 4-core radiator with no overheating problems. In fact, it runs so cool, maybe I will put air conditioning and a cup holder in it next season.
Got a monte carlo with a 408 (400 .40over) with drilled camel hump heads ... I was worried about it running hot but with aluminum radiator and dual electric fans it runs 180° all day no issues
Excellent information! I rescued a 400 / 400 combo out of my fathers 74 Caprice before it went to the wrecking yard. Destined to go into my 57 Chevy at some point soon but with a stick instead of the auto.
400 sbc good motor in My opinion steam holes are a must. My sbc 400 Had steam holes and with the 3 row radiator from summit 95 degrees outside and it would not overheat. Mine was not a rocket but it was a good street engine. Thanks for sharing
I had one in an S-10. 400 small block vortec heads mild .468 lift cam. It was a five speed truck. I could take off in third gear and fry the tires till the end of time.
S.b.c. 400 is a different beast than other small block chevys! Had one wish I'd kept it for my oldest sons 55 Chevy truck ! Even stock, there very strong !!
Built many over the years,no overheating problems, currently have one in my Wife's 75' Chevy Vega 5 speed car,4.155 bore,n.o.s.TRW 2606-30 Forged pistons, 5.7 H-beam rods,Scat light weight 9000 series Crankshaft, Hydraulic roller cam .575 lift,248dur.with angle plug aluminum heads (a must due to header design), feed by a quick fuel 750 cfm carburetor on a G.M.performance single plane (Vortec stlye) eliminator intake,gets her to Wally world pdq,
I don't care what everyone says the SBC 400'S are the best sbc engines ever made,I have 3 of them now running and will buy more if I can find them over a LS engine any day!!!
I had the only 400 Small block in Townsville North Queensland during the early eighties. The 60 thou over 511 block was an absolute hero and being well and truly worked over, I utterly enjoyed being the #1 street car in the city. That baby never got warm and it saw +6000rpm all the time. They were the best times ever and I dearly regret ever selling it. The 400 was the best kept secret in Australia. :D
You still need to be careful not to overheat a 400. I was with my uncle out in the Nevada desert many years ago. He had a 1972 Impala with a 400. For some unknown reason, the thermostat stuck shut while driving. It was only that way for a few minutes, but that was long enough to cause some damage. We removed the thermostat, and made a gasket from a milk carton. When we got back to town, it was running a little rough as a result. Not sure what had happened, as I returned home a few days later.
I have an old school 434” (4.155 bore x 4.00 stroke), splayed cap factory 817 block with a short fill… sitting in my bedroom closet for the last 17 years! Has Brodix-12 heads, T&D shaft rockers, set of Lemons headers, Jesel belt timing set, Hogans sheet metal intake with a Brandywine dominator on it. Crowder crank and steel h beam rods, Wiesco pistons with total seal rings, Stephs oil pan and pump, ATI balancer, 30lb Hayes flywheel. It was fun! One of these days I may find another 69 Z-28 to put it in.
Loved those 69 Z-28s all them years body style is a head turner until the new styles came out like naw I'll stick with real older cars & trucks body styles lol
I put a 400 CID in a 77 CIO in the mid 80's, that I used to pull a. 29ft TT and as you said do it right and you won't have any problems!!! It never ever over heated. I could pass anything but a gas station!! I love the power!!! I worked in amachine shop so dong it right was easy!
Yeah, besides anything with a load of weight, too much compression, too much timing, too poor fuel grade= heat build up and premature detonation conditions in anything.
Good presentation of the 400. When we were building them in the 80's the biggest thing we had to do, was running a bypass hose from the REAR coolant crossover when possible, or the front if you couldnt do the rear on some aftermarket manifolds... with the bypass routed through the radiator we no longer had cooling issues...
@@davidbaldwin1591 We drilled a crossover on both sides (rear) and connected them, then t'd that into the heater hose going to the heater core. Which then pumped the hot coolant through the heater core and back to the radiator. That was usually enough to keep them running cool. I am running a supercharged 434 Dart block with siamesed cylinders in my camaro. An aluminum rad, with a flex fan, and electric fans on the front. WITH a hose from the front crossover is enough to keep it cool.. unless its near 100 degrees AND I run the AC, then it very slowly heats up when idling, but cools right back down when going down the highway. One day i will have to add the rear bypass so I can sit in stopped traffic and keep the AC on wow....
I have had several small block 400 chevy motors through the years, never had any running hot,over heating problems AT All. Damm good motors. Take care of them. Last for a long time.
I have A 406 sbc.Just now taking off these ported 202/160 camel hump and putting on these AFR’s 195.Torque monster that’s for sure.Pulled the motor out of A 1973 station wagon 2 bolt main 511 block.Put TRW flat top pistons with A 6 inch H-Beam rod and with A 64cc chamber can you say TORQUE MONSTER.Steam holes are drilled and never had the motor go over 190 temp.Can’t wait to see what these heads offer.I want experience the transition from camel humps to AFR’s.Cam is A Old Crane hydraulic roller lift if 550/570 with duration at 248/253 lobe is 108.Muncie 4 speed with 373 rear gears in my 1968 Camaro.Ooooooo boyyyy can wait to back this car out again.Love you videos man keep up the good work.And Ooooo yes I am now building A 454 30 over and can’t wait to see what that will do.
Someday AFR heads are in the plans for my 406! It pulls very hard even with the ported and polished camel humps right now. But I was on a limited budget when I built this haha.
@@RatMaro I totally understand that lol.Same boat that why these hump were on my 406 for so long….but they work.Like you said and my friend said ya the humps are small for that motor no doubt but the torque from the displacement and compression alone is what I was going for and I hit that mark.They we’re some head issues that came up and I did not want to dump any extra money on them so I some how squeezed out enough for these AFR’s.I never thought I would get these.With great power comes great responsibility lol.Tell you what you set A fire under my ass when I watched your big block video and I was looking over my shoulder looking at my 454 covered up :-)…..To be continued lol.High 5 man keep up the great videos.
Good information thank you have you every heard 1968 camel humps with steam ports. I bought a pair of them a few weeks ago that had steam ports in them been completely redone check for leaks and cracks and I have a 509 block for them .
I like the 1971 impala s.b.400,;they were all 4 bolts in that year. Mine has a virgin LT-1 steel crank, as you couldnt get a factory 400 steel crank. mine with a slight punch for straightening finishes at 377 cubes, with alum. brodex 205 intake valves. Had running 18 years now, runs good, never runs too hot. Use two 750 doubles on a crossram! Never had a lick of trouble all these years, and havent even had to reset valves. Solid Lunatti, 302 dur. 547 lift.
I have some vortec heads I had a valve job put on them and asked to have the steam holes drilled. They went on to tell me it didn' t need it and many heads they have done don't have them drilled but I insisted. Its a dececnt running stock 400 with a lifter tick so the vortecs, a cam of 214/224 duration 450 lift should be a good cruiser engine with some umph in a 4dr trifive.
First V8 I ever rebuilt for my 73 nova back in 76 was a 400 SB with camel hump heads bored 60 over Comp cam and 4 speed manual! And ran that for years with no heating problems and was my daily driver and weekend racer!
You note on screen *Not Chevelle? I had a 1974 400ci Chevelle Malibu Classic, got it about 1983 with 34,000 miles on it, and the 400 was the original engine. I have no idea what the casting number was. I did the motor myself, with the machining done by the local speed shop that built motors for local racers. I used a forged 327 crank with welded up rod journals reground off center for a stroke increase, and .030 over bore. Back then nobody made or sold a forged crank for the 400. If you wanted forged it was a de-stroke, that's why I came up with the modification of the 327 crank. I don't remember what it cubed out to but it was well into big block displacement territory. The 400 cranks were all cast. It was a 2 bolt block, the 4 bolts crack in the main web (not as strong as you say). The solution was the special main caps with splayed outer bolts and the block machined to accept them. I don't remember the exact compression ratio or cam but they were forged pistons with the max compression I could manage reasonably and it was a Crane cam. I remember the cam was based on some Chevy grind, maybe something from a Z-28? I can't remember.. I used an aluminum Chevy (I think Corvette) intake with a Holley spread bore carb, little primaries and big secondaries like a Rochester. Aluminum 202 heads that I think I got with the intake but not sure. This was back about 1985, hard to remember details but I still have two polaroid pictures of the car and one of the engine on the stand in my garage. Lots more went into that motor but I remember so many of my buddies said I was nuts and the shop that did my machining thought I was nuts. People said it was a "smog motor" and you couldn't really do anything with it. They didn't think I was nuts when that engine was done. I definitely wish I still had that car. Sure, heavy car, but that engine made monster power and did just fine for me. Oh, and it never overheated. LOL! If you think the engine is underrated or relatively unknown now, it was downright disrespected back then. Many or most considered it garbage.
The 327 is a solid choice. Use the right valve springs and a longer rod and you have a snappy little screamer. Take a 400 and add long rods, good heads, and about the hottest street cam and you have a damn fine tire roaster. It all depends on application I suppose. Drag, road, oval, street.... All comes down to how "mad at it" you like to drive. Hee. Hee....
i had one in a 1976 laguna great motor i also remember going through junk yards looking for a set of heads for it and i noticed the early station wagons had the 4 bolt main 400 in them and i know the flywheel and harmonic balancer a unique to that motor
I picked up a 67 Camino with a mild built 400 in it. I love it !!! Looking for one now to put into my 85 C-10 truck. They hard to find with a stock bore now !!
I have CSB 400 taken out to a 408. It has Keith Black pistons, 5.7 rods, elderbrock tunnel ram with 2 450 Holley Carbs. 3spd trans with a 4:11 Dana rear
I had good luck in my SBC 400 bought it from a Chevy dealer parts guy who was building a car from a wrecked new 71 . It had the earlier camel hump heads with weap hones drilled and a Sig Ersson TQ 20 cam. I bought the first Torquer intake Edlebrock came out with and used 650 holly in my 1936 Chevy delivery street rod. Absolutely no problem
Old timer at the shop I work at hates them, especially in a truck. "Big block economy, small block power" lol, for HD applications, they overheat easy, using the block for a destroked 377 circle track engine is what happened to a lot in my area, but gen 1 small blocks are not as common as they used to be, I see 08's getting scrapped with frame rust around here......
I have a 79 chevy 3/4 4x4. Everything that came on that truck from the factory minus the carb is still on the truck. Bone stock 400 that still runs great
The 400 Chevy smallblock stock never was intended for performance and GM never had a stock performance version they were intended for low speed torque and with factory heads and camshaft ran out a steam by 4500rpm but the longer 3.75 stroke moves big heavy cars and trucks with less revving involved or more easily
I have a. 1977 k5 with a 400 /350 with full time , 4x4 with a 4 row radiator it's never got above 180 , it has headers ,cam ,torquer intake w/60k I bought this new , you must have had a 2 row radiator ,GM is notorious for too small radiators
Thanks for the education, makes sense. I always got "razzed" about the 400 I had in my 73 Caprice, but it lasted over 250K miles without any issues. Needless to say, it was just a choked down smog motor, so not enough power to really strain anything. Wish the car was still around today, would have loved to have the engine rebuilt with better heads for a bit more power.
@@BuzzLOLOL Maybe someday I will have another one. Dream of having the skills/money and resources to do a frame off rotisserie restoration on one of these cars, would really love to have a convertible.
@@donk499 Yes, the engine bearings. Engines that are meant to last are built with wearable parts that you replace. Like all the engine bearings and all clearances checked. If you replace the bearings as scheduled, there wouldn't be so many engines thrown away or need machined so much.
Great vid good accuracy couple points 400 connecting rods are shorter 5.65 to 5.7 if your changing pistons anyway forged 350 rods great upgrade don’t be shy with a performance camshaft a 400 will take a lot of cam and still run nice down low same with heads . Look at the size of the heads on a 396 to compare . And a stout engine cheap is a 373 forget the 383 put the forged rods and crank out of a 350 in a 400 block you know have a super over bored 350 never be shy of any small block with 2 bolt mains there is far more important things then 4 bolt mains aftermarket studs in a 2 bolt is stronger than a factory 4 bolt
We use to grab these up in the 80s. Three most common. Rotating assembly used in a 350 with the 565 rods had no clearance issues. Or a 406. Or a destroked 400 into a 377
I had 17 of those blocks at one time a long time ago in california, we were destroking them and running them in sprint cars 377cid. It was the 70`s If youre running over 3500 rpm the steam holes aren`t needed. The holes were there to keep steam pockets from getting trapped under the deck at the siamesed point of the cylinders at higher rpms the flow doesnt let the steam collect. When running 3.75 stroke we just added heavy metal and internally balanced the engine. Now I just buy new blocks, so much easier and no holes...expanded water jackets fixed it and with a 9.325 deck 468 cid is not a problem, wide pan rails .800 increase .391 raised cam BBC cam journal's and any lifter bore or splay you want.
Eddy u seem to know what you are talking about. I have a bone stock 400 in a 72 caprice, cars junk but motor purs like a kitten. Realistic could I get 400;hp out of it without breaking the bank?
@@wildestcowboy2668 If ya can afford it buy new parts. A scat cast internally balanced rotating assembly 400 with 7/16 rod bolts with flat top pistons will hold 400hp no problem. Any cylinder head with 72cc cambers and flow 277cfm or better will get you there and 200 to 220cc intake runners. 1and 3/4 header tubes. Internally balanced rotating assemblies will use 350 harmonic balancers and flexplates. Hydraulic roller cam about 240*duration and 550 lift. That should getter done.......on pump gas. Good luck
I built a 509 casting, high nickel, 409 for my 74 Nova SS. I started it for the first time the night before Christmas Eve ‘21. It has 11:1 static compression, tight quench, AFR 195cc Street Eliminators, Comp 12-433-8 hydraulic roller, Scat 9000 crank, Scat forged rods, forged pistons, Edelbrock Hi-Flow aluminum water pump, Cold Case aluminum radiator, a QFT 770 Brawler carb, and a Performer RPM with a 1” open spacer. I listed the ingredients for anyone who is considering building one of these for their street/strip machine because it is a BEAUTIFUL combination that you will not be even remotely disappointed with. If you are guessing which parts would make a good combo, follow this recipe with confidence. Mine has not been Dyno-tested yet, but I have seen another 400 with the same parts as mine, making 540 bhp with 9.7:1 compression.
I will love to hear more about this engine. My 406 use the same cam but AFR 210CC. Also my compression is 10.5 to 1 due that I choose to use inverted domed pistons with 15.2 cc volume and 6" rods. My quench is 0.041 thou and my heads are 65 cc but I shaved them 0.014 tens to get a tad below 63 cc chamber. The engine is coming out of the machine shop this week. I am using a team G manifold. Also installed played Milodon caps. more info is greatly appreciated.
@@fernandodelvalle1612 I’m running a.038” quench, I went with 5.7” rods this time (kinda wish I would have used 6” rods like I usually do). If I’d have gone with a Callies forged crank, I would have dared to go with a.035” quench because my machinist does that with his roundy-round car, and spins 8k all night long. I was going to use the 210’s until I realized I would need custom headers to make it work in my car without cutting up the car. I figured the 195’s might offer a little bit more torque and response for my street car. I have stock caps with ARP studs as well as head studs. I am running flat tops with 2 valve reliefs (wiseco pro-tru), cloyes 9-way, I upgraded the MSD street fire with a dyna-mod module, coil, and spring kit, all-in timing isn’t dialed in yet. Comp ultra-pro 1.6 rockers.
@@mistered9435 very nice. My engine is going in 1982 C3 with a 4 row radiator triflow. Also 2 12" spal fans. What temp runs in a hot day. Since I am in TX I see days of 104 sometimes. I get so much criticism from my friend about this engine that is unreal. I really don't care what they think.
@@fernandodelvalle1612 I assume that your friend thinks you should do an LS swap? They are nice engines, but they are overrated. You’ll love the lower end performance of your engine (gen 1 sbc)compared to an LS, but still get to wind it up to 6500 to shift! A C3 should be amazingly quick with this combo, maybe 10’s or 11’s? Of course, your friend may just be a little jealous.... It sounds like you don’t need any advice, but in case you do: check out the TH-cam video from Straub Technologies, “pushrod geometry for engines”. I tried this simple method and it turned out perfectly.
The factory 400 Blocks are decant street rod engines but they are garbage for high compression racing or boost I used them in a super comp roadster with 13.4 to 1 compression back them we ran an 8.99 dial in for bracket racing the 400 would make 850 HP with AFR Heads and Howards solid roller cam the problem with the 400 blocks at that power lever is the head gaskets leak after 10 or so passes I went through 3 400 blocks all had head gasket leakage our conclusion was if your going to race at this level the 400 block is not a good choice switched to BB and never looked back
No mention of the rod length? A 5.56 400 rod versus the 5.7 rod, longer rod more torque with the 383, I liked the 400 that I built and it ran well, but until I had a good radiator built it did overheat.
My 406 SBC powers my light bodied car it goes like a truck on steroids no heating issues it is an everyday car since 1986 cast 400 heads coupled with a Rochester 800CFM.
Ive seen 434 strokers making 700hp NA which is absolutely insane for a small block and I always wanted to buy a old opel gt and smack a 434 stroker in it. Nothing could touch me.
What recommendation would you have for a cam for the street? I would like to hear it but I do not want to change my torque converter. Thank you very much.
hi compression on a .045 piston deck clearance , std bore , 2 valve reliefs 68cc heads CR= 10.7 to1 64cc head = 11.3 to 1 .040 gasket 64cc head = 11 to 1 with .050 gasket
My mechanic talked me into getting a 400 instead of a 383. All of the work is done is done. I just need to get the headers, intake and a carb. Steam ports drilled, cam, pistons, crank is all there. Thanks 👍🏾
For years I had a 400sbc & a 700r4 I swapped in a ‘79 C3 Corvette. Comp 212’/218’-.487”/.495 retrofit hyd roller, unported Vortec heads, standard Performer intake, Quadrajet, 1 5/8” long tubes, Dynomax turbos, recurved HEI, 3:70 posi. A/C, pwr windows lol Would run consistent 13.2’s if the tires didn’t badly break loose. Fun car back then for being surprisingly heavy.
cool. i bet it is a blast to drive, not too much cam, got overdrive. Nice broad torque band. awesome. in a 400 you could have gone up to an XR 276 HR or XR282 HR and still had vacuum to the brakes and have 535 tq. That is what a 383 made with the Xr282Hr10 but needed 1-2 points of vacuum so runs a vacuum cannister to have abundance. The XR276HR makes 465 tq in a 355 same thing on vacuum ran a vacuum can with EPS eddy intake. If ground on 112 LSA will make up the vacuum. i am going to try an XR264, 258, or 252 next time on a mild 355.
I put one in my 68 long bed with a granny low it was freshly rebuilt it was the baddest engine it never got passed 180 that I remember I still have it I think it came out of a station wagon it's been sitting in my shed I hope to rebuild it one day
Glad I bought a reasonable priced New 540 Big Block Chevy short block a few years ago. All forged and internal balanced bottom end. 9.3 compression with 119 heads, with stock big oval iron heads I have and mild hydraulic roller cam. 540 HP 600 TQ across the board is easy. Good street and strip engine, 2,000 stall and with a 114 lobe separation cam will be a great 250-400 big shot of nitrous will help do the job. Lower compression makes bigger nitrous overall gain than higher compression and adding a smaller nitrous kit overall.
Yes Chevelle's. I had a Laguna S3 with a 400 from the factory. The last one I built was a stock bore with longer 350 PM rods and Vortec 062 heads drilled for the steam hole. I had to replace the pistons and used a set of KB's with a relocated pin hole. A Crane dual pattern cam, springs, locks and pushrods finished off the long block. That engine just hauled ass, I had it in a '78 Monza with a 4 speed and it was unmanageable. I finally settled on a built 200r4 out of a Grand National and a tight converter to soften the bottom end. The only thing I did for the cooling system was an aluminum radiator and water pump. Never got beat by a big block car and never had to work on the motor. There really is no better combo that a 400 small block in a light car. Now a days it's the LS Mustang's.
67 SS factory over. 030 block took the 11: 1 highdome pistons out. Went to 10: 5 and closed chambers with biggest valves you could fit. Ran good for a 396. Canary yellow and black with a 411 limited, torker mani and a 850 dual feed double pumper. Break the tires lose at 55 mph.
I built three 400 small blocks. Loved them! The best combination was flat top pistons with a solid lift camshaft. I put sportsman II heads with 67 cc chamber . I did have to run AV gas due to compression. 3500 stall with 373 gear. 11.60’s in the 1/4 mile all day long. Very strong engines.
Had a stock 400 in my 73 wagon, always ran great. Had the throttle stick open Once ( linkage) got scary over 90mph w/ family in car(.ez fix) Traded in for a 4 cyl for MPG saving, but that 400 always started & ran well for a 2bbl
Hey thanks mate that helps me out heaps I know a little bit about engines and you just filled in the missing pieces. I'm going to buy a perentti in Australia and there is 2 to choose from one is the small block 400 and the other is a 350 small block
I wonder how a destroked 400 would be? If you're putting it in a lightweight car, the torque to weight ratio is much closer and you wouldn't need as much stroke.
@@troythompson1621 U sound like my kinda guy T-roy. Don't get it twisted I'm a MOPAR guy but I've built ALOT of sbc's and put three fiffys in evathang. Cheap flips
i have bored and honed, installed sleeves in, and assembled several stock 400 blocks for mlra and hava tampa late model dirt track racing. some 13.5:1-- 14.:1 cr, some 418 strokers making over 650 horsepower. i built a stock block, mechanical fuel injected 410 for sprint racing that dyno'd at 710 hp. you have to use head studs, machined surfaces, and torque plate honed to keep head gaskets on them. we replaced the 3 center main caps with billit 4 bolt caps to hold the crankshaft in place.
400 sbc in my 88 s10 and it had bowtie heads and other family secretive ( Sprint car) things added to it and even on 90 plus degree days running hard and consistent 11s it would never climb over 180 degrees
Basically a 400 is an overbored 350. The lack of coolant paths between the cylinders is what made them run hotter than most SB Chevys. I have seen several cracked and melted SB 400 cylinder walls. Another fun fact. Ford actually had the 350 first but never went to production. Ford experimented with it in the late 1940's and early 1950. My late Uncle worked for Ford until he retired 30 years ago. It was an Edsel Ford brainchild and Henry did not like it. After Edsel died in 1949, Henry was more than glad to phase out the project. They then started working on the.....You guessed it, 351. My Uncle was was a tank mechanic in the Army in and served in World War II, Korea and Vietnam. He had transitioned to Army reserves after WWII and worked in the Ford engine shop. When the Korean war erupted he was reactivated and served until the end in 1953. When he went back to work the 350 was nowhere to be found.
I just bought a 307 that I heard run for 1 minute had a slight Miss in it buying the motor for $500 and it has forged heads on it 195 cc's but I do not know what's on the inside of the motor it is complete he's putting a LS in his Monte Carlo
I had a 400 with a 3.48 stroke, 377. Another difference unshrouded valves. Better breathings. Had Brodix track 1 heads ported and polished. Made around 500 hp, in the early 90's it was a screamer.
Just picked up a 2-bolt 511 casting, untouched and in good shape. Will add some good heads, 6” rods, and drop in into my 71 C3 when the current 350 dies. Thanks for the video Hermano.
If you use headers USUALLY the steam holes aren't needed ,, the stock ones idled low also ,, so there is reasons they put the steam holes there ,, I would tap the hole and put a set screw in and drill a . 035 hole in that ,, the head bolt hole to steam hole is where they crack ,, even if they do crack I've saw them ran cracked but use good head bolt sealer ,, aviation grade permitex is my fave ,, never put the temp sensor in the head of any SBC ,, usually if one is said to overheat ,, the temp sensor is in the head ,, always put it on the intake
I have a 400 sbc 509 casting with missing freeze plug on the side!! Has 68 camel hump heads 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, a custom ground cam with an Edelbrock Air-Gap intake and Edelbrock performer series 800 cm carb and in my 85 S-10 Tahoe edition with a locked 3:73 rear gear is a fun little truck out on the streets!!!
Bro thanks for this information I just picked up a 1973 sport coupe impala with a 400/400 going to rebuild the 400 with some aluminum heads cam headers and send it 🏁
Everybody that was a gearhead of my age:74. I had built many of them..upstroke and destroked.. Trw made space saver bearings so we could swap in different cranks with a different main bearing size. Many had 3 freeze plugs but not all. Also came in 4 bolt and 2 bolt. The 2 bolt was preferred and then use a aftermarket 4 bolt conversion to gain more strength. They will make 600 hp all day long..I suggest a .010 over bore. A tunnel ram manifold and a cam of around 260 degree at .050 will get you there. But having said that people want a fotune for them so they are basically a waste of money these days. By a cheap Aftermarket iron block and you will be glad you did!
I have one build 4.155 bore, plugged the steam holes, run the Brodex 1 heads.. no heating issues over 550 hp..all forged internals.. great mtr.. I’ve run this in track events at the Glen, and VIR with no issues..
I know this is an older vid but do you think a stock bottom end 400sbc with 425hp and gaped piston rings could handle a 200hp shot of nitrous or should I just upgrade the bottom end to forged crank and rods for that? If I do upgrade the bottom end should I go ahead and stroke the 400sbc as well to a 427??? It would rarely see a 200hp shot anyway and if its cheaper im willing to risk it a little
@@wildestcowboy2668 I like Mopar they're just a little more expensive to build. Plus I already have a 66 impala. Swapped the smokey 283 for a junk yard 350 vortec. Intake, carb, headers, built 4l80e and posi rear with 3.73s. Trade me a 69 Satellite with a 383 or 426 4 speed manual tho 🤤 and we have a deal 🤝
Back in high school I had a 77 nova with a 400 out of a blazer.
I swapped the cam, headers, intake and a 750 holly. In the early 90’s people thought a short stroke was the way to go but, I read a book called “power secrets” by Smokey unich.
It takes torque to move weight.
I had a lot of torque and no much weight. I had the fastest car in school. Thanks Smokey.
That is a good book and Smokey was a very smart man. Everything he says in there is right on the money. Everybody should read that book asap.
@@jsteganius6969 You guys know your stuff ;)
@@jsteganius6969 Agreed , millions of spot on tricks from Mr. Yunick, I re read it with every SBC I build and I always catch something new I over looked. But I am not a 400 fan at all, less issues with a 383.
YEAH, Smokey was a deviant, and the man.
I had 3 400s u had to keep them cool I blew 2 of them before I put a huge radiator in very thin walls and hard to find now
The olds 403 was a better motor when built right
Another difference to be aware of is that the 400 sb is externally balanced. Different flexplate and balancer than the 350.
Back in my memory, the only factory flywheel to be found for manual transmissions applications was in very few vehicles.
@@kcgarrigan4324 yeah so you have to get an aftermarket one
@@zAvAvAz - Nope, got one laying around here... LOL !
I thought it was the 400 big block.
@@martingarza3383, The "400" BB is the 402 AKA the 396 "turbo fire", this is the early 70's Caprices, the trucks just called it the 402
Damn right 400 is torque monster my Chevelle ran from 74 to 84 then rebuilt. Balanced , bored .30 over , 202 heads . Ran 84 to 2005. Put out 443 HP. 😮 Total miles 335 000 + 😊
The thing about it. Even aftermarket blocks like the street SHP has the Siamesed bore design and absolutely no steam hole BS. The 400 running hot myth is on of the biggest myths of all time
I had one in a pickup. It got hot and burned a hole in a piston. I wasn't abusing it. Beware
If your 400 running hot it's either lean or low on coolant! Great engine!
Stupid mothers always run hot hard to start bad cooling system
@@davidjohnson6329 Then you had a problem with the cooling system, NOT the engine. I have a mildly built, stock block 400 in a GMC Sonoma that puts out around 400-420 hp. It runs around 170°175° normally and gets up to 180°-185° climbing a grade during a hot day.
It's not a myth! But it's way overblown .
400 small blocks were becoming rare by the late 80's for a number of reasons . The cylinders ran hotter due to the fact that there was no circulation between them . Due to the higher operating temps head cracking between the steam holes was also common . Also , due to the fact that the bores were so close to the head bolts , the head bolts would pull the bores into a hexagonal shape over time , resulting in poor ring seal . Finally , the short rods combined with the longer stroke would cause excessive side loading on the cylinder walls , resulting in excessive wear . That is why 383 strokers became so popular by the late 80's , because there were tons of used up 400 blocks with good cranks in them . I'm an engine machinist with over 40 years of experience , I will be retiring in two years .
WHEN BUILDING AN ENGINE DO YOU WASH OUT / CLEAN OUT ALL THE OIL HOLES ? DO YOU BEBURE THE BLOCK ?
GRIND, SAND DOWN AND POLISH THE OIL RETURN PATHS IN THE LIFTER VALLEYS ? JUST WONDERING, ALL MACHINE SHOPS AROUND ME DON'T, UNLESS YOU REQUEST IT AND PAY EXTRA !
I HAD 2 MOTORS REBUILT AT 1 SHOP , BOTH ENDED UP HAVING ROD AND CRANK BEARINGS PROBLEMS, I THOUGHT CLEARANCES MIGHT HAVE BEEN TO TIGHT. LATER I MET A GUY WHO BUILDS OVAL TRACK RACE ENGINES , HE LOOKED AT BEARINGS , SAID THE MACHINE SHOP NEVER CLEANED BLOCK AND CRANK PROPERLY.
@@daviddavids3468 heck yeah I'd request it to be cleaned and I still wouldn't trust it and do it myself.
Heck ,I worked in an engine shop and I'd still clean parts after getting em back for some job.
I always did that myself you gotta get the oil back to the pump faster than you pump it to the top 👍
Brother you've been an automotive machinist for 40 years with a retirement wow great job 👍 & I had thought about becoming a auto machinist when I was younger but loved the water I ended up on oilfield yachts crewboats & offshore tugs engineer never got the package to retire on 😔 but yea great job brother. & let's get back to them 400s I've had one & it was in a Pontiac Catalina 4 door I want to say in the 70s and it was so smooth running engine with no hesitation what so ever. Period lol it sounded great with the right exhaust it was one smooth sounding 400 I've ever owned. Congrats on your 40 years. Now I'm mad @ myself but don't regret it tho I got to learn diesel along with gas living on a oilfield aluminum breaux hull built crewboat yachts. Good luck these days on your retirement brother 40 years you've earned it.
Built a 400 small block in 1979 with stock bottom end and added 2.02 heads, circle track cam with .537-.555 lift 247/252 duration108 centerline, 750 holley double pumper, big tube 1 7/8 headers and stuffed in a 1969 nova with a powerglide. That thing had so much torque it would break the tires loose at 45 mph! Could not keep head gaskets in it very long but was fun as hell for a 19 year old kid.
An awesome combo. Sounds hairier than this daily driven pure street combo: 406c.i. lunati 230*in/230*ex O.455" lifts in & ex. RPM intake 9.7:1 compression stock vortec heads. 750 HP holley. 2500 stall. Makes 427 hp@ 5100rpm. and 525 tq. @ 3500 rpm. Just a simple short rpm stout daily driven combo without trying for cheap. It would take more money to accomplish the same on a 350 and the 355 combo i have makes 465 tq. and 410hp and has precision work in the heads. XR276HR mild roller cam combo.
Till the 318 dodge dart shut ya up
I was a BBC guy till a 340 dart beat me
Chevy's are cheap because GM is junk
@wildestcowboy2668 a 318😂😂 you must not know how to tune a muscle car!😂😂
@@wildestcowboy2668 obviously you never had a real car in the first place! 340 darts are not fast. Maybe if you said a cornet R/T with 440 6 pack. But regardless, Chevy has fast cars also. But at this point you obviously don't know much of much. Sorry you got your ass kicked. Maybe part of it is also driving skills. Either you had a shit car but probably bad driver or both.
@@wildestcowboy2668 MOPAR = Many Other Parts Are Required. If the guy that built that 340 built your BBC and you had the 340 Duster you would be singing a different "tune". If you understood volumetric efficiency you would know how to make power out of any engine brand.
There's no substitute
For Cubic Inches.
Always remember this!
CORRECT!!
Once a person HAS had their first 550+" big block, ALL small blocks WILL disappear in their heads FOREVER.
There IS a reason that the likes of Pat Musi, and a bunch of the old school drag racers are building 900+ c.i. engines.... 😂
The game changes BIG TIME when large cubic inches are involved with a build. The end results are HUGE.
My 547 big-block R's up quicker than most small blocks do, and has more torque to boot. Most people just scratch their heads and have an amazed look on their faces after I give them a ride in this vehicle. Even if they own "fast small-blocks".
Replacement for displacement. ! That is the phrase used
Got two 400s. One street 427 6in rod 680hp 700lbs tq. One race 434 6.1 rod 750hp on 750tq trick flow heads. 750 dbl pumper. 1150 900hp 870lbs tq. Both Rev 7500 all day long and leave most in the dust. Best sbc ever!
700 ftlbs ,,, hmm ,, 13 degree heads with 15-1 ?
Amen
Lies, all lies.
Anyone who knows engines knows this is absolute lie. Your engines are not doing any of this.
I don't believe you.... it's PRETTY rare that an N/A small block makes MORE torque than it does horsepower when it's built up.
Also can destroke the block and make a 377. Fun high rpm motor.
dirt track guys have done that a lot.
Reliable and high RPM but Short on torque
@@burnychaplin4601 that's why they make manual transmissions with a variety of gear ratios , and for the automatic guys you change rear end gearing . Personally I want to build an even smaller version .
Always wanted to do that I believe that the 68 307, had a 3 in stroke crank so you don't nead extra thick mains just longer rods high compression heads with large valves steam holes and harmonic balancer and flywheel camshaft would be a tricky thing as now it's over squared
That's what I have in my old high-school camaro. 307, bored 40 over, 10:1 pistons, a set of double humps that I ported, and one step below the biggest hydraulic cam comp makes before going solid. Holy smoke does that thing run.
I have a small block 400 that I've had since 1993 and used it in my 1970 C20 Chevy truck. I did have the cracked head issue 5 years ago and I had it rebuilt but I never put it back on the road again because the cracked headed syndrome freaked me out and I didn't trust it. Thanks to you video I now know how to get away from the cracking issue. Thanks for the great info!
I've had one that I built in1987. Still runs just as strong today, over 33 years later. I have had the pan off of it twice in 33 years to change out bearings and oil pump. 588 eagle cam . 106 lobe separation. Torqueer 2 intake and a 600 holly. Iron eagle heads. Yes stem holes are drilled. Have ran headers and old ram horn manifolds. Power on demand anytime. Most time steet raced in a lightweight chevy ll . Would not sell it for 2 Ls motors. Will run on alcohol as well as gas. Good little motors. Thanks.
U wouldn't sell for two.ls motors.lmfao well my ls 402 makes around d 1500 hp meth infected turbo.have fun going slow
@@ryangulley1082 I believe your brain is "meth infected" bro! Yes, the ls is an excellent engine that is better in volumetric efficiency because of the head design. First Gen small blocks with 14 degree large port/valve combos can support 8000 rpm and 700 to 750 hp n/a with about 13.5 : 1 compression very easily.
@@harrypalmer291 the stock.sbc head is trash as well.dz 302 vs a boss 302 .haha.you know tho.i have never built a sbc or any engine.
The key words in my original response to you was "14 degree heads" which were never made by Chevrolet or GM. They are purpose built race parts that cost thousands. Speed is only a question of money. How fast do you want to go?
@@ryangulley1082 let's see it last 33 years though. The guy wasn't attacking LS engines just loves his 400 and then you had to be a c#nt
oh yes I can speak from first-hand experience that I still have my 509 2 bolt main 427 small block and she is a beast
In high school , mid to late 90s my good buddy had a 68 camaro with a 400 , had 186 camel humps , gm performance intake headers and an unknown cam that wasn't very lumpy , but heavy sounding , th350 no stall and a 308 rear gear . . . That thing would puuuuuull! Very fast car honestly it was almost scary never lost a race when I was present. Great video
I've got about 10 or 12 400 small block engines. Love them. Best sb ever built! I'd never waste time building a 383 with the 400s I have. All mine are standard bore and only bore .020 over if they clean up instead of .030.
@DFV Louderilk Good point but when comparing small blocks only, I'll take the 400 hands down.
@DFV Louderilk If only more people were aware of how truly incredible the big block chevy is. The Mark II "Mystery Motor" was developed as a race engine. The Mark IV big block we know today is almost identical in design. So yes, the Mark IV is a race engine. Canted valves make it a power monster. All these sheep that go with the crowd witj LS swapping everything are missing out. LS does not have canted valves, they are lined up next to each other causing harsh turns and reducing flow potential. The most powerful V8s on earth are all hemis or something with canted valve placement. The big block should not be ignored
I have starter problems with mine changed the flexplate and starter still starts like crap tried shims and still any advice what I can do would gladly be appreciated?
@@nyc1655 what problem, are you chewing the flywheel or flex plate, ok shim out side brings the starter closer to the ring, move the shims in the direction that it needs
@@shootermcgavin2819 A BBC is a poor man's hemi. No GM junk ever beat a MIGHTY MOPAR BIG BLOCK HEMI
I had a 1973 Vega with good heads and intake ran 7:03 in 1\8 mile . Love those engines.
Ray. That is badass!!!
Doesn't take much to make a Vega fast.
My uncle had a small block 400 on a 53 Chevy.Pick up everybody used to talk smack about it.We went on many road trips with that vehicle.Towing and r v never had any issues like you said if done right small block 400 is a good engine
400 and a 350 also have two different sounds coming out the exhaust
No, they don't... If you built them both identical, they'd sound EXACTLY the same.
74 Z28 Camaro 400- 400 Turbo transmission. Raised the Compression ratio. Put 2 Elderbrock carbs. Hooker Headers. 10-5-1 compression ratio. Midnight Blue. No strips. Great Car!
I have 3 .040 400 sbc, found one when I was 17 years old in a 1968 chevelle deluxe 300. It was a one wheel tire burning machine and fun to drive. Wish I would have kept that car but young and dumb. Now 34 years later I have a 1982 Malibu wagon with a 408 sbc and it is here to stay. And it's a 2 wheel tire burning machine and yes it's fun to drive.
My favorite thing to do with 400's is turn them into NASCAR 377's. If the bore is good, (not barrel shaped or more then .040 over) use fat bearings and drop a steel 350 crank in it with 6.125" rods and forged pistons to reduce side loading, steam-hole a set of big valve double-humps with dual valve springs, solid lifters, a 106 cam with around 270 degrees duration and 550 lift. Thing makes nutso power and can handle 8600 revs all day long. The trans-am mustang guys hate us....
Built one of those for my sprint car back in the 70's. 400 block, 350 crank, roller cam and rev kIt, Chevy HP angle plug heads and Hilborn injection running alcohol; it was a stout engine.
Yes a destroked motor is awesome i have had several. My latest is a 351 cleveland destroked to a 330 like glidden dominated pro stock with it makes insane power the local camaro guys hate me.
Have read from some industry heavy hitters that a 377 with fill up to water pump holes and external oil cooler can actually help the stock block live a long time at higher power levels
Can you do this with 65 383 big block?
383 Mopar? Or 396 Chevy? Each can be easily turned into a 413 Max Wedge and a 427 Mk. III.
I've been using the 400 small blocks in my stock cars, tow vehicles, and in my stop light to stop light boulevard street cars with great results for over 30 years. Show me a 400 that overheats and 99% of the time I will show you a plugged-up radiator. I race in the southwest where come race time in the hot summer nights when they throw the green flag the ambient air temp is still 95 degrees. I run a stock GM 4-core radiator with no overheating problems. In fact, it runs so cool, maybe I will put air conditioning and a cup holder in it next season.
Got a monte carlo with a 408 (400 .40over) with drilled camel hump heads ... I was worried about it running hot but with aluminum radiator and dual electric fans it runs 180° all day no issues
Excellent information! I rescued a 400 / 400 combo out of my fathers 74 Caprice before it went to the wrecking yard. Destined to go into my 57 Chevy at some point soon but with a stick instead of the auto.
400 sbc good motor in My opinion steam holes are a must. My sbc 400 Had steam holes and with the 3 row radiator from summit 95 degrees outside and it would not overheat. Mine was not a rocket but it was a good street engine. Thanks for sharing
I had one in an S-10. 400 small block vortec heads mild .468 lift cam. It was a five speed truck. I could take off in third gear and fry the tires till the end of time.
Smokey Yunick loved them. I abused one for 30 years, it's out for a freshen up and Dart heads
S.b.c. 400 is a different beast than other small block chevys! Had one wish I'd kept it for my oldest sons 55 Chevy truck ! Even stock, there very strong !!
A friend had one in a 1954 Chevy pickup, he would call the 400 the little big block !!
Yea, they're different.... they have 50 more cubic Inches, and a crappy way to balance it.
Built many over the years,no overheating problems, currently have one in my Wife's 75' Chevy Vega 5 speed car,4.155 bore,n.o.s.TRW 2606-30 Forged pistons, 5.7 H-beam rods,Scat light weight 9000 series Crankshaft, Hydraulic roller cam .575 lift,248dur.with angle plug aluminum heads (a must due to header design), feed by a quick fuel 750 cfm carburetor on a G.M.performance single plane (Vortec stlye) eliminator intake,gets her to Wally world pdq,
I don't care what everyone says the SBC 400'S are the best sbc engines ever made,I have 3 of them now running and will buy more if I can find them over a LS engine any day!!!
I had the only 400 Small block in Townsville North Queensland during the early eighties. The 60 thou over 511 block was an absolute hero and being well and truly worked over, I utterly enjoyed being the #1 street car in the city. That baby never got warm and it saw +6000rpm all the time. They were the best times ever and I dearly regret ever selling it. The 400 was the best kept secret in Australia. :D
😢 till they discovered that u were a switch hitter
My mate Manuel had a silver Mazda in 90s with 400 in Melbourne running 9.56 quater mile
Quarter mile
Code basha, Did you all get any big block pontiacs?
60 over? Yea, sure... I KNOW that wouldn't have lasted long.
You still need to be careful not to overheat a 400. I was with my uncle out in the Nevada desert many years ago. He had a 1972 Impala with a 400. For some unknown reason, the thermostat stuck shut while driving. It was only that way for a few minutes, but that was long enough to cause some damage. We removed the thermostat, and made a gasket from a milk carton. When we got back to town, it was running a little rough as a result. Not sure what had happened, as I returned home a few days later.
I have an old school 434” (4.155 bore x 4.00 stroke), splayed cap factory 817 block with a short fill… sitting in my bedroom closet for the last 17 years! Has Brodix-12 heads, T&D shaft rockers, set of Lemons headers, Jesel belt timing set, Hogans sheet metal intake with a Brandywine dominator on it. Crowder crank and steel h beam rods, Wiesco pistons with total seal rings, Stephs oil pan and pump, ATI balancer, 30lb Hayes flywheel. It was fun! One of these days I may find another 69 Z-28 to put it in.
I thought the 69 Z28 only came with the 302??
@@mekanik911 that motor was long gone when I bought that car. It did have a 327 with an M22 and Dana 60 with 456 gears.
@@trevorjarvis3050 wanna sell it?
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions dammit…. Not yet…. Your name looks familiar but I don’t know why.
Loved those 69 Z-28s all them years body style is a head turner until the new styles came out like naw I'll stick with real older cars & trucks body styles lol
I put a 400 CID in a 77 CIO in the mid 80's, that I used to pull a. 29ft TT and as you said do it right and you won't have any problems!!! It never ever over heated. I could pass anything but a gas station!! I love the power!!! I worked in amachine shop so dong it right was easy!
Yeah, besides anything with a load of weight, too much compression, too much timing, too poor fuel grade= heat build up and premature detonation conditions in anything.
Have a 70 nova ran 7.20s with a 400. Had 1970 lt1 heads, team-g intake, 850 holley, and a .532 solid lift cam. 373 gears, th350. 1.54 60ft times.
7.20 ? 1/8 MILE ?
@@daviddavids3468 sure hope!!!!!!
Sounds like a damn good time!!!!
Good presentation of the 400. When we were building them in the 80's the biggest thing we had to do, was running a bypass hose from the REAR coolant crossover when possible, or the front if you couldnt do the rear on some aftermarket manifolds... with the bypass routed through the radiator we no longer had cooling issues...
Could you fill me in on where to direct that water? Do I use a heater hose on that crossover, and where does it go from there? I don't want a mix-up.
@@davidbaldwin1591 We drilled a crossover on both sides (rear) and connected them, then t'd that into the heater hose going to the heater core. Which then pumped the hot coolant through the heater core and back to the radiator. That was usually enough to keep them running cool. I am running a supercharged 434 Dart block with siamesed cylinders in my camaro. An aluminum rad, with a flex fan, and electric fans on the front. WITH a hose from the front crossover is enough to keep it cool.. unless its near 100 degrees AND I run the AC, then it very slowly heats up when idling, but cools right back down when going down the highway. One day i will have to add the rear bypass so I can sit in stopped traffic and keep the AC on wow....
@@kniteprince3798 Thank you for that explanation so clearly!
I have had several small block 400 chevy motors through the years, never had any running hot,over heating problems AT All. Damm good motors. Take care of them. Last for a long time.
I have A 406 sbc.Just now taking off these ported 202/160 camel hump and putting on these AFR’s 195.Torque monster that’s for sure.Pulled the motor out of A 1973 station wagon 2 bolt main 511 block.Put TRW flat top pistons with A 6 inch H-Beam rod and with A 64cc chamber can you say TORQUE MONSTER.Steam holes are drilled and never had the motor go over 190 temp.Can’t wait to see what these heads offer.I want experience the transition from camel humps to AFR’s.Cam is A Old Crane hydraulic roller lift if 550/570 with duration at 248/253 lobe is 108.Muncie 4 speed with 373 rear gears in my 1968 Camaro.Ooooooo boyyyy can wait to back this car out again.Love you videos man keep up the good work.And Ooooo yes I am now building A 454 30 over and can’t wait to see what that will do.
Someday AFR heads are in the plans for my 406! It pulls very hard even with the ported and polished camel humps right now. But I was on a limited budget when I built this haha.
@@RatMaro I totally understand that lol.Same boat that why these hump were on my 406 for so long….but they work.Like you said and my friend said ya the humps are small for that motor no doubt but the torque from the displacement and compression alone is what I was going for and I hit that mark.They we’re some head issues that came up and I did not want to dump any extra money on them so I some how squeezed out enough for these AFR’s.I never thought I would get these.With great power comes great responsibility lol.Tell you what you set A fire under my ass when I watched your big block video and I was looking over my shoulder looking at my 454 covered up :-)…..To be continued lol.High 5 man keep up the great videos.
Good information thank you have you every heard 1968 camel humps with steam ports. I bought a pair of them a few weeks ago that had steam ports in them been completely redone check for leaks and cracks and I have a 509 block for them .
I like the 1971 impala s.b.400,;they were all 4 bolts in that year. Mine has a virgin LT-1 steel crank, as you couldnt get a factory 400 steel crank. mine with a slight punch for straightening finishes at 377 cubes, with alum. brodex 205 intake valves. Had running 18 years now, runs good, never runs too hot. Use two 750 doubles on a crossram! Never had a lick of trouble all these years, and havent even had to reset valves. Solid Lunatti, 302 dur. 547 lift.
I have some vortec heads I had a valve job put on them and asked to have the steam holes drilled. They went on to tell me it didn' t need it and many heads they have done don't have them drilled but I insisted. Its a dececnt running stock 400 with a lifter tick so the vortecs, a cam of 214/224 duration 450 lift should be a good cruiser engine with some umph in a 4dr trifive.
First V8 I ever rebuilt for my 73 nova back in 76 was a 400 SB with camel hump heads bored 60 over Comp cam and 4 speed manual! And ran that for years with no heating problems and was my daily driver and weekend racer!
Good stuff man!!!!!
You note on screen *Not Chevelle? I had a 1974 400ci Chevelle Malibu Classic, got it about 1983 with 34,000 miles on it, and the 400 was the original engine. I have no idea what the casting number was. I did the motor myself, with the machining done by the local speed shop that built motors for local racers. I used a forged 327 crank with welded up rod journals reground off center for a stroke increase, and .030 over bore. Back then nobody made or sold a forged crank for the 400. If you wanted forged it was a de-stroke, that's why I came up with the modification of the 327 crank. I don't remember what it cubed out to but it was well into big block displacement territory. The 400 cranks were all cast. It was a 2 bolt block, the 4 bolts crack in the main web (not as strong as you say). The solution was the special main caps with splayed outer bolts and the block machined to accept them. I don't remember the exact compression ratio or cam but they were forged pistons with the max compression I could manage reasonably and it was a Crane cam. I remember the cam was based on some Chevy grind, maybe something from a Z-28? I can't remember.. I used an aluminum Chevy (I think Corvette) intake with a Holley spread bore carb, little primaries and big secondaries like a Rochester. Aluminum 202 heads that I think I got with the intake but not sure. This was back about 1985, hard to remember details but I still have two polaroid pictures of the car and one of the engine on the stand in my garage. Lots more went into that motor but I remember so many of my buddies said I was nuts and the shop that did my machining thought I was nuts. People said it was a "smog motor" and you couldn't really do anything with it. They didn't think I was nuts when that engine was done. I definitely wish I still had that car. Sure, heavy car, but that engine made monster power and did just fine for me. Oh, and it never overheated. LOL! If you think the engine is underrated or relatively unknown now, it was downright disrespected back then. Many or most considered it garbage.
The two best small blocks in my opinion are the 327 and 400,I would pick the 400 over the 350 every time!
Go ahead with those two and make my day ! , A 355 four bolt main work's just fine for me !
The 327 is a solid choice. Use the right valve springs and a longer rod and you have a snappy little screamer. Take a 400 and add long rods, good heads, and about the hottest street cam and you have a damn fine tire roaster. It all depends on application I suppose. Drag, road, oval, street.... All comes down to how "mad at it" you like to drive. Hee. Hee....
Ok
i had one in a 1976 laguna great motor i also remember going through junk yards looking for a set of heads for it and i noticed the early station wagons had the 4 bolt main 400 in them and i know the flywheel and harmonic balancer a unique to that motor
I picked up a 67 Camino with a mild built 400 in it. I love it !!! Looking for one now to put into my 85 C-10 truck. They hard to find with a stock bore now !!
I have CSB 400 taken out to a 408. It has Keith Black pistons, 5.7 rods, elderbrock tunnel ram with 2 450 Holley Carbs. 3spd trans with a 4:11 Dana rear
I had good luck in my SBC 400 bought it from a Chevy dealer parts guy who was building a car from a wrecked new 71 . It had the earlier camel hump heads with weap hones drilled and a Sig Ersson TQ 20 cam. I bought the first Torquer intake Edlebrock came out with and used 650 holly in my 1936 Chevy delivery street rod. Absolutely no problem
Old timer at the shop I work at hates them, especially in a truck. "Big block economy, small block power" lol, for HD applications, they overheat easy, using the block for a destroked 377 circle track engine is what happened to a lot in my area, but gen 1 small blocks are not as common as they used to be, I see 08's getting scrapped with frame rust around here......
I have a 79 chevy 3/4 4x4. Everything that came on that truck from the factory minus the carb is still on the truck. Bone stock 400 that still runs great
The 400 Chevy smallblock stock never was intended for performance and GM never had a stock performance version they were intended for low speed torque and with factory heads and camshaft ran out a steam by 4500rpm but the longer 3.75 stroke moves big heavy cars and trucks with less revving involved or more easily
You are correct.
That's exactly right except you could get a good 4 barrel version occasionally that had torque on the bottom end and would pull up to about 5500rpms
I have a. 1977 k5 with a 400 /350 with full time , 4x4 with a 4 row radiator it's never got above 180 , it has headers ,cam ,torquer intake w/60k I bought this new , you must have had a 2 row radiator ,GM is notorious for too small radiators
Thanks for the education, makes sense. I always got "razzed" about the 400 I had in my 73 Caprice, but it lasted over 250K miles without any issues. Needless to say, it was just a choked down smog motor, so not enough power to really strain anything. Wish the car was still around today, would have loved to have the engine rebuilt with better heads for a bit more power.
A cam and domed pistons would have bumped it to 375 HP...
@@BuzzLOLOL Maybe someday I will have another one. Dream of having the skills/money and resources to do a frame off rotisserie restoration on one of these cars, would really love to have a convertible.
it would last countless millions if people replaced the bearings on time.
@@zAvAvAz Replaced the bearings??
@@donk499 Yes, the engine bearings. Engines that are meant to last are built with wearable parts that you replace. Like all the engine bearings and all clearances checked. If you replace the bearings as scheduled, there wouldn't be so many engines thrown away or need machined so much.
Great vid good accuracy couple points 400 connecting rods are shorter 5.65 to 5.7 if your changing pistons anyway forged 350 rods great upgrade don’t be shy with a performance camshaft a 400 will take a lot of cam and still run nice down low same with heads . Look at the size of the heads on a 396 to compare . And a stout engine cheap is a 373 forget the 383 put the forged rods and crank out of a 350 in a 400 block you know have a super over bored 350 never be shy of any small block with 2 bolt mains there is far more important things then 4 bolt mains aftermarket studs in a 2 bolt is stronger than a factory 4 bolt
thats 5.56
5.565" to be exact.
We use to grab these up in the 80s. Three most common. Rotating assembly used in a 350 with the 565 rods had no clearance issues. Or a 406. Or a destroked 400 into a 377
377...... LoL ur thinking about a 383 pop's
@@wildestcowboy2668377 is a 400 with a shorter stroke crank from a 327 or 350. Revs high
Built a 400 sbc in 98 steel crank 6.0 rods isky solid cam dart 208 heads 500+ hp and torque
I had 17 of those blocks at one time a long time ago in california, we were destroking them and running them in sprint cars 377cid. It was the 70`s If youre running over 3500 rpm the steam holes aren`t needed. The holes were there to keep steam pockets from getting trapped under the deck at the siamesed point of the cylinders at higher rpms the flow doesnt let the steam collect. When running 3.75 stroke we just added heavy metal and internally balanced the engine. Now I just buy new blocks, so much easier and no holes...expanded water jackets fixed it and with a 9.325 deck 468 cid is not a problem, wide pan rails .800 increase .391 raised cam BBC cam journal's and any lifter bore or splay you want.
Eddy u seem to know what you are talking about. I have a bone stock 400 in a 72 caprice, cars junk but motor purs like a kitten. Realistic could I get 400;hp out of it without breaking the bank?
@@wildestcowboy2668 Yes sir, no problem, I`d check emission laws of your state first thing. No sense building a motor that` ya can`t get a plate for.
@@edpetrocelli2633 Brotha I live in sweet home Alabama we ain't got no b.s. sleepy Joe Biden restricted anything! ...thank God
@@wildestcowboy2668 If ya can afford it buy new parts. A scat cast internally balanced rotating assembly 400 with 7/16 rod bolts with flat top pistons will hold 400hp no problem. Any cylinder head with 72cc cambers and flow 277cfm or better will get you there and 200 to 220cc intake runners. 1and 3/4 header tubes. Internally balanced rotating assemblies will use 350 harmonic balancers and flexplates. Hydraulic roller cam about 240*duration and 550 lift. That should getter done.......on pump gas. Good luck
@@edpetrocelli2633 Thanks my friend I will study what you sent me.
I built a 509 casting, high nickel, 409 for my 74 Nova SS. I started it for the first time the night before Christmas Eve ‘21. It has 11:1 static compression, tight quench, AFR 195cc Street Eliminators, Comp 12-433-8 hydraulic roller, Scat 9000 crank, Scat forged rods, forged pistons, Edelbrock Hi-Flow aluminum water pump, Cold Case aluminum radiator, a QFT 770 Brawler carb, and a Performer RPM with a 1” open spacer.
I listed the ingredients for anyone who is considering building one of these for their street/strip machine because it is a BEAUTIFUL combination that you will not be even remotely disappointed with. If you are guessing which parts would make a good combo, follow this recipe with confidence. Mine has not been Dyno-tested yet, but I have seen another 400 with the same parts as mine, making 540 bhp with 9.7:1 compression.
I will love to hear more about this engine.
My 406 use the same cam but AFR 210CC. Also my compression is 10.5 to 1 due that I choose to use inverted domed pistons with 15.2 cc volume and 6" rods. My quench is 0.041 thou and my heads are 65 cc but I shaved them 0.014 tens to get a tad below 63 cc chamber.
The engine is coming out of the machine shop this week.
I am using a team G manifold. Also installed played Milodon caps.
more info is greatly appreciated.
@@fernandodelvalle1612 I’m running a.038” quench, I went with 5.7” rods this time (kinda wish I would have used 6” rods like I usually do). If I’d have gone with a Callies forged crank, I would have dared to go with a.035” quench because my machinist does that with his roundy-round car, and spins 8k all night long.
I was going to use the 210’s until I realized I would need custom headers to make it work in my car without cutting up the car. I figured the 195’s might offer a little bit more torque and response for my street car.
I have stock caps with ARP studs as well as head studs. I am running flat tops with 2 valve reliefs (wiseco pro-tru), cloyes 9-way, I upgraded the MSD street fire with a dyna-mod module, coil, and spring kit, all-in timing isn’t dialed in yet. Comp ultra-pro 1.6 rockers.
@@mistered9435 very nice. My engine is going in 1982 C3 with a 4 row radiator triflow. Also 2 12" spal fans. What temp runs in a hot day. Since I am in TX I see days of 104 sometimes. I get so much criticism from my friend about this engine that is unreal. I really don't care what they think.
@@fernandodelvalle1612 I assume that your friend thinks you should do an LS swap? They are nice engines, but they are overrated. You’ll love the lower end performance of your engine (gen 1 sbc)compared to an LS, but still get to wind it up to 6500 to shift! A C3 should be amazingly quick with this combo, maybe 10’s or 11’s? Of course, your friend may just be a little jealous....
It sounds like you don’t need any advice, but in case you do: check out the TH-cam video from Straub Technologies, “pushrod geometry for engines”. I tried this simple method and it turned out perfectly.
I just got mine out of the shop 408 with forged rotating assembly and it’s going in my 92 gmc stepside on 40s so hopefully it rips
Where are these numbers you speak of? How deep do you drill the steam holes? What diameter are they? Aren't 400 sb motors externally balanced?
The factory 400 Blocks are decant street rod engines but they are garbage for high compression racing or boost I used them in a super comp roadster with 13.4 to 1 compression back them we ran an 8.99 dial in for bracket racing the 400 would make 850 HP with AFR Heads and Howards solid roller cam the problem with the 400 blocks at that power lever is the head gaskets leak after 10 or so passes I went through 3 400 blocks all had head gasket leakage
our conclusion was if your going to race at this level the 400 block is not a good choice switched to BB and never looked back
It's on the builder not the 400s
My machinist told me they haven't drilled stem holes in forever ave suggested filling them before it gets decked
Have a 2 bolt 511 block and just picked up a 2 bolt 509 virgin block yesterday. Hearing alot of good on the 509. Thanks for the info.
I’m building a 406 now. Should be 575-600hp. Internally balanced scat crank, 6” rods, 11.5:1, .636 solid roller, Aluminum 220cc heads Victor jr intake
Won't make 600 horsepower and if you hook it up you will pull the main webs
Frank. It sounds badass!!!!! Let that pony run!!!!!!
Sounds like a little monster engine 👍
No mention of the rod length? A 5.56 400 rod versus the 5.7 rod, longer rod more torque with the 383, I liked the 400 that I built and it ran well, but until I had a good radiator built it did overheat.
In the 400 in your Corvette, would you have any idea what cam is running? Thank you very much, my friend.
I had a high compression 421 solid roller. Ran extremely well. Being in Phoenix I had NEVER wanted a 400 block
My 406 SBC powers my light bodied car it goes like a truck on steroids no heating issues it is an everyday car since 1986 cast 400 heads coupled with a Rochester 800CFM.
Ive seen 434 strokers making 700hp NA which is absolutely insane for a small block and I always wanted to buy a old opel gt and smack a 434 stroker in it. Nothing could touch me.
What recommendation would you have for a cam for the street? I would like to hear it but I do not want to change my torque converter. Thank you very much.
hi compression on a .045 piston deck clearance , std bore , 2 valve reliefs 68cc heads
CR= 10.7 to1
64cc head = 11.3 to 1 .040 gasket 64cc head = 11 to 1 with .050 gasket
My mechanic talked me into getting a 400 instead of a 383. All of the work is done is done. I just need to get the headers, intake and a carb. Steam ports drilled, cam, pistons, crank is all there. Thanks 👍🏾
My buddy built a car to run in gasser class he used a 400 block with 327 crank for 348 Ci it would rev like crazy.
One of the guys at our local track runs a .030 over 400 in a 1980 stock body Camaro, with AFR heads the car is a high 9 second car.
For years I had a 400sbc & a 700r4 I swapped in a ‘79 C3 Corvette.
Comp 212’/218’-.487”/.495 retrofit hyd roller,
unported Vortec heads,
standard Performer intake,
Quadrajet,
1 5/8” long tubes,
Dynomax turbos,
recurved HEI,
3:70 posi.
A/C, pwr windows lol
Would run consistent 13.2’s if the tires didn’t badly break loose.
Fun car back then for being surprisingly heavy.
700r4 is a weak trans
Lame combo 😂
@@Jay-fb2lv a baby camshaft but totally streetable
@@Watchout1010 a very small 1st gear's fault amongst other things.
cool. i bet it is a blast to drive, not too much cam, got overdrive. Nice broad torque band. awesome. in a 400 you could have gone up to an XR 276 HR or XR282 HR and still had vacuum to the brakes and have 535 tq. That is what a 383 made with the Xr282Hr10 but needed 1-2 points of vacuum so runs a vacuum cannister to have abundance. The XR276HR makes 465 tq in a 355 same thing on vacuum ran a vacuum can with EPS eddy intake. If ground on 112 LSA will make up the vacuum. i am going to try an XR264, 258, or 252 next time on a mild 355.
I put one in my 68 long bed with a granny low it was freshly rebuilt it was the baddest engine it never got passed 180 that I remember I still have it I think it came out of a station wagon it's been sitting in my shed I hope to rebuild it one day
Glad I bought a reasonable priced New 540 Big Block Chevy short block a few years ago. All forged and internal balanced bottom end. 9.3 compression with 119 heads, with stock big oval iron heads I have and mild hydraulic roller cam. 540 HP 600 TQ across the board is easy. Good street and strip engine, 2,000 stall and with a 114 lobe separation cam will be a great 250-400 big shot of nitrous will help do the job. Lower compression makes bigger nitrous overall gain than higher compression and adding a smaller nitrous kit overall.
Yes Chevelle's. I had a Laguna S3 with a 400 from the factory. The last one I built was a stock bore with longer 350 PM rods and Vortec 062 heads drilled for the steam hole. I had to replace the pistons and used a set of KB's with a relocated pin hole. A Crane dual pattern cam, springs, locks and pushrods finished off the long block. That engine just hauled ass, I had it in a '78 Monza with a 4 speed and it was unmanageable. I finally settled on a built 200r4 out of a Grand National and a tight converter to soften the bottom end. The only thing I did for the cooling system was an aluminum radiator and water pump. Never got beat by a big block car and never had to work on the motor. There really is no better combo that a 400 small block in a light car. Now a days it's the LS Mustang's.
67 SS factory over. 030 block took the 11: 1 highdome pistons out. Went to 10: 5 and closed chambers with biggest valves you could fit. Ran good for a 396. Canary yellow and black with a 411 limited, torker mani and a 850 dual feed double pumper. Break the tires lose at 55 mph.
What size cam you got in your Corvette sounds good I have a 817 two bolt main. That came out of my 70 Camaro when I sold it
I’ve run 400s for 20 years without issues,iron heads I drilled holes but with aluminum heads you don’t need to drill the holes
Back in the day my buddy had a 400 with a fairly aggressive cam,headers,intake and a Holley 750 on it..it was very stout.
Got a 406 in my 70 nova I love it , just have to keep her cool
Whats the difference of a 400 small vs the 400 big block
Big
I built three 400 small blocks. Loved them! The best combination was flat top pistons with a solid lift camshaft. I put sportsman II heads with 67 cc chamber . I did have to run AV gas due to compression. 3500 stall with 373 gear. 11.60’s in the 1/4 mile all day long. Very strong engines.
My favorite engine, raced a 406 many many years.
Had a stock 400 in my 73 wagon, always ran great. Had the throttle stick open Once ( linkage) got scary over 90mph w/ family in car(.ez fix)
Traded in for a 4 cyl for MPG saving, but that 400 always started & ran well for a 2bbl
Just turn the key off if you ever have throttle stick again brains those Chevrolets like to run wide open
Hey thanks mate that helps me out heaps I know a little bit about engines and you just filled in the missing pieces. I'm going to buy a perentti in Australia and there is 2 to choose from one is the small block 400 and the other is a 350 small block
I wonder how a destroked 400 would be?
If you're putting it in a lightweight car, the torque to weight ratio is much closer and you wouldn't need as much stroke.
Troy u are thinking correctly and even tho GM is junk anyway I think it's a good idea your having
@@wildestcowboy2668 yeah, if I'm building a serious small block I'd do a 340 again, but the Chevys are more of play around toy that's easy.
@@troythompson1621 U sound like my kinda guy T-roy. Don't get it twisted I'm a MOPAR guy but I've built ALOT of sbc's and put three fiffys in evathang. Cheap flips
i have bored and honed, installed sleeves in, and assembled several stock 400 blocks for mlra and hava tampa late model dirt track racing. some 13.5:1-- 14.:1 cr, some 418 strokers making over 650 horsepower. i built a stock block, mechanical fuel injected 410 for sprint racing that dyno'd at 710 hp. you have to use head studs, machined surfaces, and torque plate honed to keep head gaskets on them. we replaced the 3 center main caps with billit 4 bolt caps to hold the crankshaft in place.
If you want to use factory heads use the earliest ones they were thicker cast and less likely to crack like the later heads.
I have a 400 with the 509 block in an 86 Silverado what's the best or affordable heads should I look for
400 sbc in my 88 s10 and it had bowtie heads and other family secretive ( Sprint car) things added to it and even on 90 plus degree days running hard and consistent 11s it would never climb over 180 degrees
I am so glad you posted this , I have a 509 running un-bored I've been unshure about ! Whatcha think it's worth ?
Basically a 400 is an overbored 350. The lack of coolant paths between the cylinders is what made them run hotter than most SB Chevys. I have seen several cracked and melted SB 400 cylinder walls. Another fun fact. Ford actually had the 350 first but never went to production. Ford experimented with it in the late 1940's and early 1950. My late Uncle worked for Ford until he retired 30 years ago. It was an Edsel Ford brainchild and Henry did not like it. After Edsel died in 1949, Henry was more than glad to phase out the project. They then started working on the.....You guessed it, 351. My Uncle was was a tank mechanic in the Army in and served in World War II, Korea and Vietnam. He had transitioned to Army reserves after WWII and worked in the Ford engine shop. When the Korean war erupted he was reactivated and served until the end in 1953. When he went back to work the 350 was nowhere to be found.
Henry Ford died in 1947, his son Edsel died several years before, I think it was 1942. Henry
made Edsels life very difficult.
I just bought a 307 that I heard run for 1 minute had a slight Miss in it buying the motor for $500 and it has forged heads on it 195 cc's but I do not know what's on the inside of the motor it is complete he's putting a LS in his Monte Carlo
I had a 400 with a 3.48 stroke, 377. Another difference unshrouded valves. Better breathings. Had Brodix track 1 heads ported and polished. Made around 500 hp, in the early 90's it was a screamer.
Just picked up a 2-bolt 511 casting, untouched and in good shape. Will add some good heads, 6” rods, and drop in into my 71 C3 when the current 350 dies.
Thanks for the video Hermano.
If you use headers USUALLY the steam holes aren't needed ,, the stock ones idled low also ,, so there is reasons they put the steam holes there ,, I would tap the hole and put a set screw in and drill a . 035 hole in that ,, the head bolt hole to steam hole is where they crack ,, even if they do crack I've saw them ran cracked but use good head bolt sealer ,, aviation grade permitex is my fave ,, never put the temp sensor in the head of any SBC ,, usually if one is said to overheat ,, the temp sensor is in the head ,, always put it on the intake
I have a 400 sbc 509 casting with missing freeze plug on the side!! Has 68 camel hump heads 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, a custom ground cam with an Edelbrock Air-Gap intake and Edelbrock performer series 800 cm carb and in my 85 S-10 Tahoe edition with a locked 3:73 rear gear is a fun little truck out on the streets!!!
Bro thanks for this information I just picked up a 1973 sport coupe impala with a 400/400 going to rebuild the 400 with some aluminum heads cam headers and send it 🏁
Everybody that was a gearhead of my age:74.
I had built many of them..upstroke and destroked..
Trw made space saver bearings so we could swap in different cranks with a different main bearing size.
Many had 3 freeze plugs but not all.
Also came in 4 bolt and 2 bolt.
The 2 bolt was preferred and then use a aftermarket 4 bolt conversion to gain more strength.
They will make 600 hp all day long..I suggest a .010 over bore.
A tunnel ram manifold and a cam of around 260 degree at .050 will get you there.
But having said that people want a fotune for them so they are basically a waste of money these days.
By a cheap Aftermarket iron block and you will be glad you did!
Did you ever Build a 3.00 Stroke 400.???
I have one build 4.155 bore, plugged the steam holes, run the Brodex 1 heads.. no heating issues over 550 hp..all forged internals.. great mtr.. I’ve run this in track events at the Glen, and VIR with no issues..
I know this is an older vid but do you think a stock bottom end 400sbc with 425hp and gaped piston rings could handle a 200hp shot of nitrous or should I just upgrade the bottom end to forged crank and rods for that? If I do upgrade the bottom end should I go ahead and stroke the 400sbc as well to a 427??? It would rarely see a 200hp shot anyway and if its cheaper im willing to risk it a little
😢.....be a man and get a MOPAR.
@@wildestcowboy2668 I like Mopar they're just a little more expensive to build. Plus I already have a 66 impala. Swapped the smokey 283 for a junk yard 350 vortec. Intake, carb, headers, built 4l80e and posi rear with 3.73s. Trade me a 69 Satellite with a 383 or 426 4 speed manual tho 🤤 and we have a deal 🤝
@@rustychevy2087 I'm a dart guy but I like your thoughts....