I’m in SoCal. Definitely not harsh weather like you guys in Michigan. But have had tech support from loch and Raypak trip out on them being on the roof tops as well. The exhaust flu stacks don’t last. About last year loch started giving us stainless steel stacks.
Hello i have a problem with my heater, he makes the process , but drops a failure: lockout gas valve fail 1. I change the valve but continuos the failure.
Are you getting the correct gas pressure to valve? How’s the system determine flame prove? Flame rod or HSI? You’ll need to check micro amps. If you are getting flame and high micro amp reading than it sounds like loose wiring issue ignition module/board issue. If there’s a peep hole look though it upon lighting to see if your getting a flame.
Depends on the application. If done properly wire nuts will last if out in the elements don’t prefer them. Until WAGO’s are easily available here in the supply houses than I’ll stick with wire nuts.
What state do you live in? It’s crazy to me to see a boiler outside but I live in Michigan
I’m in SoCal. Definitely not harsh weather like you guys in Michigan. But have had tech support from loch and Raypak trip out on them being on the roof tops as well. The exhaust flu stacks don’t last. About last year loch started giving us stainless steel stacks.
Hello i have a problem with my heater, he makes the process , but drops a failure: lockout gas valve fail 1.
I change the valve but continuos the failure.
Are you getting the correct gas pressure to valve? How’s the system determine flame prove? Flame rod or HSI? You’ll need to check micro amps. If you are getting flame and high micro amp reading than it sounds like loose wiring issue ignition module/board issue.
If there’s a peep hole look though it upon lighting to see if your getting a flame.
Is it wrong to use wire nuts?
Depends on the application. If done properly wire nuts will last if out in the elements don’t prefer them. Until WAGO’s are easily available here in the supply houses than I’ll stick with wire nuts.