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@@Itsjustciah that will work just make sure you wire correctly. Since you’re going to cut the plugs off I would cut back a bit on the plug coming from the line/controls. That way when you get a new motor you can reuse the plug.

@@Itsjustciah the plugs are just fancy/expensive wire splice. 😂

@ somebody told me if I do that it can burn the board up. Is that true?

@@hvacslayer2929 well i think the motor is fine I hadn’t confirmed why the plug burned up but I was attempting to save money by just eliminating the plug and just wiring the wires together

@@Itsjustciah probably lose connection inside the plug on the high voltage side. The plug connection is just that it’s completing the wires together. The board sends signal to the motor to control speed.

@@salvadorgutierrez4474 I’ve shown snoop in some of my other vids! Yeah I don’t know why I didn’t have snoop involved crap.

@@zackdepalma6184 agreed 👍🏻

​@@hvacslayer2929 I agree as well. These sound louder and seem to break down more often.

@@mariodiaz6438 have it closed unless the tank has been exposed to moisture which it shouldn’t.

@@kevinpearce3281 yes but the gas ballast will help on initial start up of moisture removal. I run it open until about 5k then close it.

@@1_Dantheman_1 Yes they are A2L comp. Thanks for watching 🤘🏻

@@dolwhinhooks8059 from there website. They have an merch category on the site.

I’ll have to look into that amprobe instrument. Yeah i try telling people who never used an ultrasonic that you need to have it completely silenced with no electrical noise going on or your gonna hard time. lol just ordered a new sensor for my H10. My battery has been bad for awhile I have to leave it plugged in. I see mixed reviews on the stratus. Hvac guy on TH-cam had issues with it. NorCal Dave doesn’t like it as well. I mean everybody will have different opinions of course, but hvac guys unit wouldn’t work and kept having issues with his.

Accutrak or DTek which one is better

You’d have to give bit more info. But you should be able to adjust the set points through the hand held tool if you do not have prizm software

@@hvacslayer2929 we have an AAON Unit RN-011-08-0-EA09-3FB 11T Roof top unit. The reset source is space temperature and the cooling mode enable setpoint is 74, the heating setpoint is 71. sat coolingSAT COOLING high reset source is 80, low reset source is 70, cooling staging window is 5, mod cooling window is 10,SAT SETPOINT OR LOW SAT LIMIT FOR RESET IS 50, SAT High Reset limit is 60, mechanical cooling oat lockout is 35, low cut off temp is 40 SAT HEATING - high reset source is 80, low reset source is 60, heat staging window is 5, mod heating window is 10, Low SAT Limit reset is 90 heating OAT lockout is 90, high temp cutoff is 150. The room that uses this unit has a 25foot ceiling and 80 feet long. Yesterday the temperature of that room was 68 degrees. i tried to use the control unit to increase the temp, but no luck - room would not increase temp. It was showing that the heat was on. It was 80degrees outside but I didnt think the outside temperature made a difference since the reset source is space temp. I am happy to send you pictures of all the settings. this is driving me nuts!

These ones got stolen. I ended up getting another set. So far I like them. 👍🏻

@@hvacslayer2929 ooh. Noooo let me guess u left them at the job site?

@@RafaelRodriguez-wc6zi worse my van got broken into they got my backpack that had my gauges and hoses in.

For me they give me false readings. Says my head is way lower than it really is. Not sure why

@@JCN2000 weird. But your suction is fine?

I’m constantly seeing/hearing these motors going down. One of the things to look for is static pressure I believe these are very picky on static pressure.

Well, this particular RTU just got the entire ducts re-done. It was VERY deficient air ducts set up. It was ~800 CFM on the return side…. For a 6 ton unit!!!!! That Sudway restaurant was always sweating. So, I’ve got the entire system done correctly with ~3000 CFM on the return and ~2500 CFM for the supplies. It started to cool… ran happy for 2 days and… that damn motor just quit!

@@edlauren9434 right so now it’s running correctly and set to correct static for the motor. I also read issues with the high temp limit on the indoor section believe that was a recall on select years. And an issue regarding voltage with the plug.

Wswrefrigeration mentioned it in the comments on this video below.

Any motor/pump shop would carry them. Just give them the bearing numbers.

Are you getting the correct gas pressure to valve? How’s the system determine flame prove? Flame rod or HSI? You’ll need to check micro amps. If you are getting flame and high micro amp reading than it sounds like loose wiring issue ignition module/board issue. If there’s a peep hole look though it upon lighting to see if your getting a flame.

Glad to have helped

Glad to help 🤘🏻

Was that motor on a pretty new RTU? I am replacing one today. The unit is 1.5 months old.

@@edlauren9434 I think it was 5 years old

Band is Himsa Song- nights like these that keep us alive

If you are hearing squealing than you have the sensitivity set to high. I don’t wear a mic, I use a go pro or my iPhone and whateve those pick up it that’s what it gets. I don’t have time to get into detail on editing and using a mic I just go and film. The video was more a comparison from the other leak detection methods. I mentioned these are so sensitive if you are near high voltage it will pick it up or any of radio interference. To get a true idea of a leak make a tiny hole on a Schrader cap and have it on a refer tank valve, slightly open it and use the ultra to go near it listening you’ll definitely hear what it’s suppose to sound like. Then spray some soap on it so you hear what it sounds like wet. There is other videos on TH-cam that demonstrate the noise from these tools. I know Shannon knight has one hooked up to a speaker so you can hear it. Hope this puts gives you some confidence in learning how to use it. Also key is using good pair of isolation headphones if you are using the crappy Walkman style ones that came with it well you already lost the battle. I use skullcandy crusher headphones with extra cushion ear pads.

Well it’s all about listening and the feedback being sent back to the headphones. The original headphones were terrible like some Walkman headphones. I had a spare pare or skull candy crushers that I use they Isolate noise somewhat but the sound is Crystal clear. If you get the higher accutrak model it comes with better headphones they look noise canceling.

I've heard misting the area with water will give better feedback to help pinpoint the leak but I have not done it.

I agree with you Mate!

100% with you! I love to be able to repair my equipment without ordering these OEM only very special and crazy expensive parts. One my customer is running the restaurant with no A/C (1.5 month old RTU) and that damn blower motor has to be shipped from the factory.. So, no A/C at that restaurant for 4-5 days…. At Memphis… with 97F outside….

Most definitely

I’ve seen them on eBay actually. Or online supply house. I obtained mine through aaon rep in my area.

I’ve heard of this happening. When I replace OG motors I end up getting new motors that come with the ring grounding kits installed already. There’s also a product out that look like current donuts but instead they help prevent arc from VFD’s. My thing is I have original motors that are close to 20 years old on VFD’s they are still rocking. But anything coming out from the last 5 years seems like pure trash does not last.

No you take the cap off when running it. While moving it around some residual oil would leak out that’s why I cap it.

@@hvacslayer2929 okay I get it now

HCAR and the Czech scorpion are my favorites. That HCAR will rattle your face very intense blast wave as well.

Only if it's damaged or cracked otherwise sand it and get it back together, keep the new sleeve for another motor incase

I’m still rocking my OG fastback but I’m intrigued by that 6-1 I’ll probably end up getting it sometime soon here. 🤘🏻