hah! you've made an adjustable version of a jewelry rolling mill! whenever I have the time and desire to save a little money, I'll roll out my own silver wire from scrap (it's always worth it in gold though) I'll start with a roughly 55mm long by 5mm wide round plug of silver, roll it down, then pull it through draw plates to about .7mm wire, If I'm careful and don't break it, I can easily have over 80 feet of wire! Silver & gold are also soft enough you can just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull/walk away with it, no winch required, if I'm dumb enough I could pull a single piece of wire all the way from one side of my shop, to the other and out into the parking lot and maybe even the busy street!
As for making the rollers from tool steel.... they make tool steel tig and stick welding rods. A bit expensive but running a surface layer build-up around the rollers would have to be cheaper than buying tool steel that thick. Just a thought in case you decided to revisit this idea or do something else entirely. Anyways, enjoyed the video. Thanks.
Hey, if you want to straighten your wire really straight, a trick I learned from making my own rings for chain maille is to chuck one end of the wire in a drill and the other in a vice. Pull it taught and spin the drill. It will pull ALL the bends out.
@@xMrjamjam did you even watch the vid? Did you not notice that in the video, he pulls the wire through an annealing furnace on the floor? He does this because just rolling the wire work hardens it. So he's already annealing it anyway... 🤔 the real benefit here would be for him to do this before he spools it up in the welder so there aren't any kinks in the wire to jam up in the machine. Seeing how he has little wire to work with, it would be in his best interest to do what he can to prevent that.
Don't feel bad about snapping the wire, man. I'm a jeweler and even when we draw wire out of super soft metals like silver, gold, or copper, snapping tends to happen. It happens especially often when you don't anneal constantly. You guys did an awesome job with this!
You could setup an induction heater just before the rollers so that it heats up the wire red hot just before rolling. Or even do this for annealing the wire, just pull it at the right speed through the induction heater and have a hose at the right distance away to cool it back down.
It was forged way too small. Keep the forging to a minimum. Cold-work the steel to refine the grain structure. After forging round then use a larger rolling mill. After the rolling mill you begin drawing.
You judged the breaking point of the wire amazingly close. you can feel when you reach the end of the elastic point and plastic deformation occurs, NIce work.
For pre-made solid (no flux) MIG wire there is usually higher levels of manganese and silicon de-oxidizers so that the welds have smoother beads, with less spatter, and easier clean up. I'll leave this method for precious metal wire. Great video, thanks for showing what happens!
That's pretty much how we do it in the steel mill I work in just on a much bigger scale and automated. We have a large roughing stand and up to 18 stands in continuous mill. If rolling wire down to 5.0mm it goes through an additional 10 wire rod block stands.
Really cool video. Definitely very unique project. Can't wait to see ur next videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work timmothy. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.
I could picture a way to make that cold roller work a little better. Just need to cut off that hand crank. Weld on a ratchet handle. Then make a levered foot pedal. Good sized spring and linkage bar connecting the ratchet handle to the pedal. Spring needs to be positioned and attached where it'll move the ratchet handle back up. Now you've got both hands free to guide the wire, and depending on the geometry of the levers and linkage - possibly more leverage to stomp on the pedal with to drive the roller. Not sure if that makes sense, but it's something that seems reasonable enough in terms of being able to make it.
Ok, now forge it back into a bolt :-) In the days of chain mail they didn't have roller dies. They pulled it through increasingly smaller holes in a die plate. Interesting video and nice work!
I once tested a sick-welding-tip from an uncle. Take a big nail, baking soda and newspaper. Make a paste from the baking soda and water, make a mush with that and newspaper. Now put a layer of that mush around the nail and dry it. You got a stick welding rod. It works but just. I'm probably not a good enough welder with a good enough welding machine.
18:27 Can't you just flip open the Feeding Rolls (hope that is the right translation)? I only work with Fronius machines, and once welded with a Stahlwerk. Never seen a Miller or Lincoln. It's not popular in Europe and on our Fronius Machines (and both of our Robots at work, which have a standard Fronius Feed), the Pressure Rolls can be flipped open to respool the wire. Now I'm asking myself, how do you change the rolls, if you need different ones, for other wire types, or if they are worn down?
Love it. I got my hook yesterday, it's awesome. I'm thinking about mounting it to a nice brass base for display instead of using it as a hook. It looks like an asteroid or something, so cool.
To save cutting wire when you test feed just open the tension rollers and manually wind the roll back. If you change wire sizes on a 5m torch it soon adds up.
Here's an idea. Make sleeves for your rolls out of tool steel with different diameters. I'd say you could get away with only one side of the rolls bolted down if you make the tool steel sleeves skinny enough.
19:37 I assume there is zinc in it, because of the white flakes in the air. Maybe that's why it welds so "sparkly"? BTW, is it now connected with a bolt?
Solid core welding wire doesn't contain any flux, per se, otherwise it would be flux core. Standard steel MIG wire will contain some extra manganese and silicon. The manganese reacts with sulfur in the parent metal which would otherwise make it hot short and prone to crater cracks and such, while silicon reacts with oxygen. Both form a slag, but they're alloyed into the welding wire so not a flux per se.
Right before the entrance to the roller you should have the iron wire pass through an induction heater to make it malleable to make it easier to force through
So, at Buckin's request, I followed a provided link and have been seriously entertained by @Tim & his sidekick @Marten! Watched three four random vids and I gotta say the content is seriously fun! Tim, I'm way beyond $400 axes, or patreon memberships, so helping you monetize will be restricted to subscribing and watching new vids, plus occasional oldies. Anyhow, THANKS!, & BEST of luck w/your collaborations with Mr. Smith!!! 😁👍❗️
I think drawing it through a hole could have potentially worked if you started with a slightly larger hole and carefully worked your way down. Jewlers use what's called a drawing plate to take wire made from softer metals and thin them out so in theory it could be possible. You could also try heating it
@@shanek6582 maybe they were just being too ambitious, given the unevenness of their wire it may have been the right size hole for 99% but that 1% was enough to break the wire. Smaller increments at first to get it nice and round.
Was there a shielding gas? Doesn't seem like it. Of course if the machine is set up for flux core polarity (and there isn't a core) that could account for the tremendous amount of splatter. Either way, great video. When you said welding with a bolt (I'm old school) I imagined drawing it out into a rod and using it as filler in oxy/actyl gas welding. I've had to resort to welding with a coat hanger as filler in pinch. Thanks for posting.
The issue is you basically work hardened it as you were drawing it through. Heating the wire up to anneal it, drawing it through, then repeating would have made the process a little easier.
Did you clean all the oil off of it? Also are you using 100% co2? That sounded so weird. I’ve used scrap pieces of material to tig weld with and works out fine but obviously never made wire to mig with.
I'm not sure if you were shooting for that depth of the cut on your lathe but when properly adjusted, the metal being removed should form a 6 and then break off. That's the best visual way to tell if you are at optimum cutting depth. Also I've adjusted your axe head design for better design. Could you tell me your email address so I can email you the design? It will allow for better chopping/cutting and keep it more even after sharpening. I'd like to do the top and front profile also if I could get some pics. I've had over 20 years on an axe and I believe it will really help your design.
Experiment idea & favour, can you metaphorphose a piece of granite for me? Do you have the ability to slowly take away the heat(1600°c dropping to 1200°) from the stone. heating it up to plasticity ;quickly at first and slowly over the course of half a day reduce the temperature only slightly until you get below any useful temperature where all plasticity is gone. 'Melting' is likely to metamorph an igneous rock. Some metamorphic rocks are beautiful, interesting & maybe gem quality. Im interested in controlled rock metamorphose as a hobby. :)) ill likely cook the stones for days
That was interesting. I know nothing about welding so a couple of questions for you: If you hadn't taken the rust off the bolt, would it have turned to scale when it was in the fire? And, I know you were kidding but is making the wire back into a bolt even a possibility? If so, how would you do it and, if not, why not? 😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
12:15 I had a cousin who worked as a mechanic for a race car crew he was working on the car with the crew one day someone went to start the car up which was raised and they forgot it was in gear I can’t remember if it was the crow bar or what but something went spinning with the tires and cracked him in the head killing him. I was young when it happened so I’m not positive about all the details but I do know it had to do with the car being in gear the tire spun and cracked him in the head killing him instantly. Kinda fucked up that’s what I thought of seeing that handle spinning.
So is this now technically bolted together?
i was your 69th like
i was your 98th like
ba dunp tis
No
id count it. only on technicality.
Super impressed with how long that got! Fantastic channel you have here.
Tim: Oh she’s tight
Martin: smiles to hold back a joke not appropriate for the video 😂😂😂😂😂
Wich reminds me of a girlfriend i had...
_That's what she said_
Man once again your dedication is unmatched. You guys are gluttons for punishment. Low key the best channel on TH-cam.
hah! you've made an adjustable version of a jewelry rolling mill!
whenever I have the time and desire to save a little money, I'll roll out my own silver wire from scrap (it's always worth it in gold though) I'll start with a roughly 55mm long by 5mm wide round plug of silver, roll it down, then pull it through draw plates to about .7mm wire, If I'm careful and don't break it, I can easily have over 80 feet of wire!
Silver & gold are also soft enough you can just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull/walk away with it, no winch required, if I'm dumb enough I could pull a single piece of wire all the way from one side of my shop, to the other and out into the parking lot and maybe even the busy street!
Undo the tension and backwind the spool....I do it all the time to save wire. Pulls it back through
Wire costs money, yo.👍🏼
Using a thick walled heated iron tube 10" to 18" long, preheat your wire to approximately to 500 degrees F. just prior to entering your pulling die.
Neat project. Got to hand it to you, you are persistent. Just making the wire was impressive. To see you weld with is was over the top.
As for making the rollers from tool steel.... they make tool steel tig and stick welding rods. A bit expensive but running a surface layer build-up around the rollers would have to be cheaper than buying tool steel that thick. Just a thought in case you decided to revisit this idea or do something else entirely.
Anyways, enjoyed the video. Thanks.
Hey, if you want to straighten your wire really straight, a trick I learned from making my own rings for chain maille is to chuck one end of the wire in a drill and the other in a vice. Pull it taught and spin the drill. It will pull ALL the bends out.
That also work hardens the metal making it even tougher
@@xMrjamjam did you even watch the vid? Did you not notice that in the video, he pulls the wire through an annealing furnace on the floor? He does this because just rolling the wire work hardens it. So he's already annealing it anyway... 🤔 the real benefit here would be for him to do this before he spools it up in the welder so there aren't any kinks in the wire to jam up in the machine. Seeing how he has little wire to work with, it would be in his best interest to do what he can to prevent that.
Don't feel bad about snapping the wire, man. I'm a jeweler and even when we draw wire out of super soft metals like silver, gold, or copper, snapping tends to happen. It happens especially often when you don't anneal constantly. You guys did an awesome job with this!
"Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should." haha
Thank you Martin... we all know you are the real man in this venture.
You could setup an induction heater just before the rollers so that it heats up the wire red hot just before rolling. Or even do this for annealing the wire, just pull it at the right speed through the induction heater and have a hose at the right distance away to cool it back down.
That's amazing how long you got that bolt drawn out just using the power hammer and by hand. Great video as always. Love your channel!
So fun to watch you go through all this. I work in wire manufacturing so it's interesting to watch someone try and figure out how to do it.
Well don’t hold out on us, tell us how it’s done! 🤣
It was forged way too small. Keep the forging to a minimum. Cold-work the steel to refine the grain structure. After forging round then use a larger rolling mill. After the rolling mill you begin drawing.
You judged the breaking point of the wire amazingly close. you can feel when you reach the end of the elastic point and plastic deformation occurs, NIce work.
For pre-made solid (no flux) MIG wire there is usually higher levels of manganese and silicon de-oxidizers so that the welds have smoother beads, with less spatter, and easier clean up.
I'll leave this method for precious metal wire. Great video, thanks for showing what happens!
13:24 Martin doesn't say much, but when he does, he's spot on!
12:36 I bet a million bucks Martin’s thinking “that’s what she said” when he laughs at Tim’s comment 😂
Thats amazing!! Can you construct a wire from small copper and aluminum pieces?
Dude I love that you broke the wire! You guys are really learning the realities of industrial scale metal work!
That's pretty much how we do it in the steel mill I work in just on a much bigger scale and automated. We have a large roughing stand and up to 18 stands in continuous mill. If rolling wire down to 5.0mm it goes through an additional 10 wire rod block stands.
Well done Martin 3 hrs of hard work on the anvil 💪 👏 hope it was worth it 👌👍👏😀
Dude, I woulda NEVER guessed or thought about doing this. That's awesome.
You never disappoint, Tim! Great video
Really cool video. Definitely very unique project. Can't wait to see ur next videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work timmothy. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.
I just want to say I love the axe I got from you and it works really good.
At 13:24 I could just imagine Steve McQueen in Martins place, “It broke”…
Thank you! Really enjoy the background music. So chilly.
Thank you for always including your failures! Really, learning is so much cleaner from someone who does not edit out mistakes.
I got one of the bottle opener from the first batch. FREAKING AWESOME!!!! I love it and use it all the time.
I could picture a way to make that cold roller work a little better. Just need to cut off that hand crank. Weld on a ratchet handle. Then make a levered foot pedal. Good sized spring and linkage bar connecting the ratchet handle to the pedal. Spring needs to be positioned and attached where it'll move the ratchet handle back up. Now you've got both hands free to guide the wire, and depending on the geometry of the levers and linkage - possibly more leverage to stomp on the pedal with to drive the roller.
Not sure if that makes sense, but it's something that seems reasonable enough in terms of being able to make it.
Pretty cool there Tim....honestly I'm surprised it welded as well as it did considering all the engineering that goes in to welding wire
Ok, now forge it back into a bolt :-) In the days of chain mail they didn't have roller dies. They pulled it through increasingly smaller holes in a die plate. Interesting video and nice work!
I once tested a sick-welding-tip from an uncle. Take a big nail, baking soda and newspaper. Make a paste from the baking soda and water, make a mush with that and newspaper. Now put a layer of that mush around the nail and dry it. You got a stick welding rod.
It works but just. I'm probably not a good enough welder with a good enough welding machine.
This was awesome, I used to work as a welder/metal worker so I appreciate this :)
the moment it broke, the dramaaaaa, well played sirs
After so much work, I don't think it was played ! ^^
This is one of those videos where I go “why?!” But the answer is the question. Because we can.
18:27
Can't you just flip open the Feeding Rolls (hope that is the right translation)?
I only work with Fronius machines, and once welded with a Stahlwerk. Never seen a Miller or Lincoln. It's not popular in Europe and on our Fronius Machines (and both of our Robots at work, which have a standard Fronius Feed), the Pressure Rolls can be flipped open to respool the wire.
Now I'm asking myself, how do you change the rolls, if you need different ones, for other wire types, or if they are worn down?
Love it. I got my hook yesterday, it's awesome. I'm thinking about mounting it to a nice brass base for display instead of using it as a hook. It looks like an asteroid or something, so cool.
This is insane!
Can’t wait to get the bottle opener in 🤙🏼
Tim, your "get it done" attitude is such an insporation!
That was a lot of work, but still impressive. Thanks for sharing.
Hey tim question, why does the bar curl when you hammer it by hand, but stay pretty much straight when you use a power hammer?
More flat surface area on the power hammer. The hand hammer is rounded and a smaller area of impact. Curls the material more.
To save cutting wire when you test feed just open the tension rollers and manually wind the roll back. If you change wire sizes on a 5m torch it soon adds up.
Uma boa demonstração de quão trabalhoso era forjar as malha de aço na idade média.
Hi Tim! Wow, I thought that would be just about impossible. You have proved me wrong, Oh yeah, hi to you too, Martin!
I was expecting it to break before you left the power hammer. Can’t wait to see next weeks.
Here's an idea. Make sleeves for your rolls out of tool steel with different diameters. I'd say you could get away with only one side of the rolls bolted down if you make the tool steel sleeves skinny enough.
19:37 I assume there is zinc in it, because of the white flakes in the air. Maybe that's why it welds so "sparkly"? BTW, is it now connected with a bolt?
The disappointment at the time the wire broke brings back fond memories of Will straightening the sword breaker on Alex Steele’s channel
Solid core welding wire doesn't contain any flux, per se, otherwise it would be flux core.
Standard steel MIG wire will contain some extra manganese and silicon. The manganese reacts with sulfur in the parent metal which would otherwise make it hot short and prone to crater cracks and such, while silicon reacts with oxygen. Both form a slag, but they're alloyed into the welding wire so not a flux per se.
I can't wait to see the next episode. From the start, I was wondering if we were going to see the revers procedure lol.
Right before the entrance to the roller you should have the iron wire pass through an induction heater to make it malleable to make it easier to force through
So, at Buckin's request, I followed a provided link and have been seriously entertained by @Tim & his sidekick @Marten! Watched three four random vids and I gotta say the content is seriously fun! Tim, I'm way beyond $400 axes, or patreon memberships, so helping you monetize will be restricted to subscribing and watching new vids, plus occasional oldies. Anyhow, THANKS!, & BEST of luck w/your collaborations with Mr. Smith!!!
😁👍❗️
Stopped for the title and stayed for the production quality
Would it not have helped to anneal the the wire before starting to roll it?
Could you have annealed the wire before drawing it, or would you have lost too much to scale?
I think drawing it through a hole could have potentially worked if you started with a slightly larger hole and carefully worked your way down. Jewlers use what's called a drawing plate to take wire made from softer metals and thin them out so in theory it could be possible. You could also try heating it
What If you would heated the wire with the torch when pulling it to soften it up some.
Should have heat the wire while drawing the same time would have been much easier.
Was thinking the same thing. Just set up a torch at whatever temp is best.
I think you should do it again using what you learned
I’ve watched videos of drawing wire and they do it cold for some reason
@@shanek6582 maybe they were just being too ambitious, given the unevenness of their wire it may have been the right size hole for 99% but that 1% was enough to break the wire. Smaller increments at first to get it nice and round.
@@shanek6582 it would probably deform too much hot.
Was there a shielding gas? Doesn't seem like it. Of course if the machine is set up for flux core polarity (and there isn't a core) that could account for the tremendous amount of splatter. Either way, great video. When you said welding with a bolt (I'm old school) I imagined drawing it out into a rod and using it as filler in oxy/actyl gas welding. I've had to resort to welding with a coat hanger as filler in pinch. Thanks for posting.
did you degrease the wire before you tried to weld with it? If the wire was oily I could see it sputtering until it got hot enough.
What is the diameter or gauge of wire did you get it to?
If you put an induction heating coil right before the roller and feed the wire through the coil, I think it will be much easier to roll.
Nice... So when you go shopping for a replacement spool of welding wire, do you just pick up a few bolts?
haha, thats awesome! Love seeing the lathe work, Thank for taking us along.. Stay cool our there buddy.. Fr; New Brunswick
I don't really know what kind of process goes into making weilding "rods", but it would definitely be cool to watch you figure it out and make one.
How heavy was the bolt initially? I'm just curious how much metal actually goes into making 45ft of wire lol
"Oh, Martin, its really tight." Then the wire breaks... I literally laughed at that. :D Martin was like, nono... Listen to your gut, Timothy.
One of the coolest vids I've seen.
The issue is you basically work hardened it as you were drawing it through. Heating the wire up to anneal it, drawing it through, then repeating would have made the process a little easier.
Super cool video dudes!
You guys are awesome!
Very cool Tim, loved seeing this.
Did you clean all the oil off of it?
Also are you using 100% co2? That sounded so weird. I’ve used scrap pieces of material to tig weld with and works out fine but obviously never made wire to mig with.
Would drawing hot wire work better or worse?
Can you make and sell spanners?
What type of gas mix are you using??
I'm not sure if you were shooting for that depth of the cut on your lathe but when properly adjusted, the metal being removed should form a 6 and then break off. That's the best visual way to tell if you are at optimum cutting depth. Also I've adjusted your axe head design for better design. Could you tell me your email address so I can email you the design? It will allow for better chopping/cutting and keep it more even after sharpening. I'd like to do the top and front profile also if I could get some pics. I've had over 20 years on an axe and I believe it will really help your design.
A drill would make an excellent handle for turning your roller also.
Man I love steel take aliitle off and it so nice love it. Nice work thanks for sharing.
That was impressive! I had to subscribe, keep it up!
you sir, are a madman. Bravo!
Lets focus on a double bit axe shall we !!! cant even buy one in the UK atm , same goes for an adze mass produce them and sell them in the UK
Experiment idea & favour, can you metaphorphose a piece of granite for me?
Do you have the ability to slowly take away the heat(1600°c dropping to 1200°) from the stone.
heating it up to plasticity ;quickly at first and slowly over the course of half a day reduce the temperature only slightly until you get below any useful temperature where all plasticity is gone.
'Melting' is likely to metamorph an igneous rock. Some metamorphic rocks are beautiful, interesting & maybe gem quality.
Im interested in controlled rock metamorphose as a hobby. :)) ill likely cook the stones for days
Epic effort dudes!!! Nice one!!
How were you creating tapered holes that size for drawing the wire through?
Couldn’t you use wire rollers out of a mig?
That's insane, I love it.
That was interesting. I know nothing about welding so a couple of questions for you: If you hadn't taken the rust off the bolt, would it have turned to scale when it was in the fire? And, I know you were kidding but is making the wire back into a bolt even a possibility? If so, how would you do it and, if not, why not? 😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Cool way to make a coat hanger!😋
I would assume that the bolt is not just plain mild steel so that is probably adding to your troubles
One question, wire you doing this?
12:15 I had a cousin who worked as a mechanic for a race car crew he was working on the car with the crew one day someone went to start the car up which was raised and they forgot it was in gear I can’t remember if it was the crow bar or what but something went spinning with the tires and cracked him in the head killing him. I was young when it happened so I’m not positive about all the details but I do know it had to do with the car being in gear the tire spun and cracked him in the head killing him instantly. Kinda fucked up that’s what I thought of seeing that handle spinning.
Do you hate making handles or what is the story with the vise grip? Thanks for creating things and ideas not many of us are able to actually make :)
Awesome work love it!
really underrated vidja
Yeah you’re definitely on my zombie apocalypse team
Instead of cutting off those 6 inches you can hand wind the spool backwards to get it back to the length you need.
It work hardened on you. Needed to sneak it