holy hell, man...meticulous workmanship!! it was instantly recognizable. i work on tube amps and audio circuits for a living, i see a LOT of circuits and lead dress, this is easily top tier work. top notch lighting and camera work as well!
That's really slick when you lift your completed board & sockets off the template and drop 'em in the chassis. And they fit: ta-dah! Even though I watched you do the templates and drill the chassis and re-use the template to use as a jig, it's still really schmick when you just drop it in. Excellent work!
I love working with turrets - such a clean look and very asthetically pleasing. I use a more military style of soldering on my tube sockets where instead of simply pushing through and soldering - I wrap the wire around the connector tab ensuring a good connection before soldering. Not judging - I see your style of soldering on tube sockets often enough - but I also repair a lot of tube socket connections soldered in that manner as well. Great work. I should video some of my work as well.
Thanks for kind words. Definitely wrapping the eyelets of the tubes with component leads is the best technique indeed. I just lay them in the lugs as I often change their position and once it's wrapped it's very hard to remove or change. I find that if the leads are tinned well and the solder joint is a nice meniscus then I have few problems. Very good observation though and quite correct. Thanks again and all the best for your builds!
Very nice work. My compliments on the entire build. I just wish I had the understanding of the build to follow through. I have no knowledge of electrical whatsoever. I can soldier and I can run electrical wiring in my home and that's it. BUT I'm a hands on person. I have to visualize what I'm doing. With that said... I would love and I'm sure many others like me if you can find the time for a video first with a list of everything needed, then a step by step on the build. I know it's too much to ask, but I'm sure it could be the number one most watched video on a tube build amp. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Again great PROFESSIONAL build. Hats of to you
Thanks Gil. I hear you, and I too was in the exact same position. I knew how to make stuff, including welding a soldering iron, however had no clue how tube amps worked. For me it was just brute force perseverance until something clicked one day. I was planning on a set of theory videos to go along with these step by step build videos however, they seemed like they caused more confusion rather than the opposite. I decided to let the build videos run and then I would post a set of theory vids to try and unravel the mysteries of the tube amp. I quickly found that it is a very hard subject indeed and it will be a challenge simplifying things down into a coherent series but it needs be done as I think the information, delivered in understandable terms, is missing. Thanks for your comment and hope we can get to a level of understanding in the end. Have a great day and thank you!
Very clean build! I've seen very expensive hi-fi tube amps that didn't have that level of care or precision. I favor stranded wire personally, I find it withstands the wiggling movement of tube socket pins better, and for that reason I don't mount passive components directly to tube sockets. But this arrangement of yours results in a very compact design and minimal wire lengths. Everything's a tradeoff.
Thank you! Indeed solid core yields when bent too many times. For that reason I also use stranded wire for my shielded cable. Where there is little chance of movement, I use solid core as it keeps its shape. Wiring components straight on the tube lugs is certainly problematic in terms of replacement, however the potential reduction in noise overides this for me, a trade off for sure. Great points, thanks for commenting, much appreciated.
I commend you for your soldering. It’s very common to see leads trimmed after a joint is flowed. Those clipped ends need to be tinned to prevent oxidation inside a wire.
I have always want to build a tube amplifier since i started building speakers, i am definitely a newbie to this area, and by watching your video, i can actually learn to build one on my own. And wow! The video quality is also on point! Those close ups are so detail, what a pleasure to watch your work! I'm gonna watch the whole playlist lol
Glad the videos were helpful. I'm just filming another build series of the same amp with a 3 band tone stack. It should be a bit more informative with regard to design aspects of the build. It's a long haul wrapping your head around tube amp design but if I can get there, I'm sure you can too. Many thanks again, cheers
Дуже дякую за відео! Це висший пілотаж в монтажі підсилювачів! 👍🙂 Є деякі моменти в яких я: уникаю монтаж навісним в два поверхи компонентів, а також я ніколи не підпаюю деталі прямо до лампових панелей, так як при нагріві ламп тепло через ніжки передається весь час на припаєні деталі та значно нагріває їх. Це може впливати на довговічність їх роботи. Ну це звісно субєктивно на мій погляд 👍🙂
Very neat job👍. I’ve seen fairly expensive amps made way less neat than your little amp there. Valve bases seemed to have quite loose contact tags which would have set off my ocd 🤣. I much prefer solder turrets to solder tag strips. Much neater.
"Surgical." That's exactly the word that came to mind as I watched this. A couple of years ago I built my first amp, a Princeton Champ, from scratch using hand picked components, NOS tubes and 16ga aluminum for the chassis. It looks and sounds fantastic if I do say so myself, but only from the outside. The inside looks like it was assembled with a blow torch and pliers as it shows my poor soldering skills. It is not something that I am proud of. On a positive note I do have the chassis mounted inside a home build cab where only the chassis is visible. I am the only one that knows what lies underneath the cherry red chassis, and yes it still bothers me.
Sounds like a cool little amp you made!. For some reason I get a kick out of having things looking solid on the inside, even though very few may ever see it. The more and more amps I build, the more it feels like creating a sculpture or something. I find it very satisfying to try and improve the design by creating a rock solid layout with everything easily accessible and as neat as possible. Its an interesting thing, thanks for the input and comment. Have a great day!
It was fun but a little frustrating - similar to the range of emotions someone playing golf might experience. A couple of solid drives and you're king of the hill, but 2 balls in the water on the next hole and you feel like the lowest rookie on the course. A major point of my frustration is that after planning for a couple of weeks I expected better results. I wanted to challenge myself by going DIY all the way instead of buying a kit so I started with a flat sheet of scrap aluminum from a metal shop. I planned to form the chassis myself but they offered to bend it for me and I didn't say no. t's roughly the same size as yours and turned out perfect. With a perfect box for my chassis I then began the layout for the transformers, tubes, jacks, etc. After several hours of research, planning and cutting I stated assembling the amp and discovered very quickly that soldering would be my "fly in the ointment." Oh I got it right technically. The amp sounds great and is free from the the hum that Champ circuits are known for. I attribute that to shielding. grounding and placement of the tubes, but certainly not my workmanship. I do not consider myself a perfectionist but I believe I am capable of doing better The outside really turned out well though. I used etching primer and then sprayed it a deep red with 3 coats of clear. And at some point in the painting process I decided to continue on and make a mini-stack. I fabricated a head cab,and included a black wire mesh grille from a storm door,, and then a cab for a 12" speaker all covered with black Tolex, Fender handles and chrome cab corners. For the grille I used the silver blackface Fender cloth. The red chassis with chicken head knobs looked somewhat odd mixed with all that black and silver so I framed the inside of the head and speaker cab with 1/4" oak stained with red cherry and secured with brass screws. What I ended up with: GE NOS tubes F&T filter caps Jupiter tone stack Hammond transformers Bourn pots + one extra for the NF loop. Metal film resistors WGS 12" Jensen clone - don't remember the exact model. 1 lb. of solder (well maybe not a pound) :-) What I have described may seem unique and maybe even attractive to some but to me the inside of the amp is not. It was my first so perhaps my expectations were a little high. It looks good and I enjoy it even with the flaws. I wish that I had your skill. I've seen many amp builds and I am sure a factory built amp wouldn't look this good.
@@elams1894 Excellent. The reason I ask is that any of the diode implementations also benefit greatly in full wave from a tuned snubber at the xformer hv secondary. This needs a scope. If you try, hear, and like the different diodes, you'll pick up more fluidity and beauty with a snubber. You have to exert care to tune it fairly exactly with an analog scope for each particular combination of PT, B+, diodes, filter, load. I am at gmail if you want to discuss over email.
Lovely work. You didn’t need to redo the blue and red twisting on that socket. The hum cancelling comes from the current in each conductor going in opposite directions. Twisting simply makes it effectively the smallest diameter for the two conductors. Obviously a blue wire going to the socket twisted with a blue wire coming from the socket WILL be hum cancelling because the currents are flowing in opposite directions.
Very impressive! The surgical precision with which you bent leads and wires is inspiring, although I would hate to be the tech who has to change out those caps 20 years down the road.
Thanks! It shouldnt be too hard to replace the components when necessary as the layout is all open plan and fairly easy to get to. I hate it when amps are just a big birds nest, makes it impossible to get to things, especially when wires and such are laid under the turret board. Cheers.
Thanks Rick! I love Kiwame, very nice resistors. I also have some Takman carbon films I've yet to try out. The Japanese stuff is very nice indeed. Cheers!
You do nice solder work! Very meticulous. Nice to watch. Very satisfying, since i likely won't be able to do this myself, but would love to build "my own way" a Fender Deluxe. Best regards from the west coast of Canada! - ss
Dear Elam?, Sorry, I am not sure about your fisrt name. It is Peter from Hungary. I purchased the plans and building the amp based on your awesome instructions. I just encountered one mistake in the chassis position plan, that is a bit confusing. Resistors nr.21 and nr.22 are both marked as nr.14 in the chassis position plan. Apart from that, the plan, the instructions are really excellent. I will post a video on the final amp. I am using Hammond transformers and red drop capacitors as they are easier to get in Europe. I will be curious about the sound. Please post instructions for any further builds, I would gladly work on other projects as well. Thanks, Peter
Thanks Peter, yes those two values I must change. The circuit diagram is the accurate one. That's great you are building the amp. Good call on the Hammonds. I have found that the ClassicTone Primary is getting very very hot, even though it's a supposed upgrade. I would be very keen to see your vid. I have been drawing the plans for another design. Essentially the same preamp with a pretty decent treble bass tone stack. I'll produce the schematic with single output tube and also push pull el84s. I have been Ultra busy with a new born daughter so time is tight but stay in touch, perhaps leave email on my personal message. Kind regards..
@@elams1894 The same here. :) Newborn daughter and not much time, but I enjoy the build very-very much. This is my first tube-amp build, so not as neat as yours, but I try to follow your hand. Regarding the Hammonds - I will use Hammond 370DX as power, and 125DSE as output transformers. These are a bit more expensive, but getting ClassicTones in Europe is a almost impossible... I will write some more details in private to your email address. Cheers, Peter
you don't need to drill the filament in EVERY case. I built lots of amps without drilling and have no hum at all. Look at the Soldano Slo 100, for example :)
Ha ha, yeah I like to live life on the egde indeed. I took a massive hit from the plate of a tube recently. For some as yet unknown reason I left the power on, yes, crazy, and then proceeded to fiddle with the plate. The one hand in the pocket saved my bacon. The hardest lessons in life are the ones most remembered. Always stay safe in those chassis man, have a good one!!
@@elams1894 When I modified CRTs for a crude oscilloscope art installation I used to work on them with the "hand grabing the unpluged cord" technique, probably overly cautious but I'm a scared y cat with high voltages, great video man!
This looks pretty sweet. PRP resistors?, and great caps. Two years on here, can you link me to something demonstrating the outcome? Pardon me if I have missed it. This video just came up on my yt.
First time I stumbled upon your channel what amazing work I just got into the hobby of tube amplifier building myself I will use your level of work as a goal to achieve. 👍
This series is very inspirational! very pedagogic and patient. I am going to start my first 5f2a build, and this is perfect motivation. I want to incorporate some of your technique. Your ground weave is a nice touch. Is it always preferable to only have a single star ground point? I see in quite a few other builds that people tend to at least separate the power ground from the signal ground.
Thanks for kind words. Yes it's preferable to seperate the power and signal grounds. I grounded them close to each other in the same region of this amp. Grounding is ultra important indeed. A single ground region is preferable in low hertz applications as in audio amps, certainly a single star ground configuration is the ultimate for the signal circuit. All the best for your build!
@@andrew_nayes great spotting. It's way easier to bolt from the other direction as you suggest. However because I use tube shields, the nut will not fit if bolted from the other side. The only option I have is to bolt from top of chassis down. What I do now to overcome this problem, as it's a real PITA, is that I glue the nut in position on the underside of the chassis. This makes life much easier. Well spotted though, good eyes.
The board should be between the components and the heat source and interference of the valves? Meaning you should be using wire to connect from components affixed on the board to the valves?
Where I am from we use turret boards to build amps as well, but we stick the leads in the eyes of the turrets to keep everything as short as possible, run ground wire across the potentiometers, and shielded cable for the AC signal, making sure to ground only one side of the shielded cable. Then you only have to solder the top of the turrets. I am confused why you wrapped your leads around the turret. What is the reasoning for doing that? I am asking to know if that is the preferred way. Also, because I was taught differently. Thanks. p.s. it seems you've made your chases a giant antenna.
There is no point in shielding AC cables; from what would you be shielding them? Most would prefer to shield the signal FROM the AC cables. You can earth the bodies of the pots if you chose, however there is little benefit unless the pots are isolated from the chassis. I wrap my leads around the turret as it forms a superior contact, however nothing wrong with using the eye. I like to keep the eye free in case I need to use it later. I earth my audio at the input jack. This was an old build and the audio earth could have benefitted from being in a different position, however it is fairly quiet in terms of unwanted noise. What is your reasoning behind the chassis antenna? The chassis is not harbouring a magnetic field. Cheers
@@elams1894 good on ya. Is a nice and tidy build. That’s for sure. Keep on making them. It’s like pie. There isn’t just one type of pie. It’s a labor of love for sure.
Why would twisting cause additional capacitance? They already have an enormous magnetic field attributed to them so even in a situation of increased capacitance, I can't see what difference that would make to the system? Cheers.
this looks spectacular... great camera work too. i have a question: is it desirable to keep the leads as short as possible, or is it that in practice 0.5 -> 1inch does not make a difference in noise level?
Hi again Durox. Yes it is very important to keep grid resistor leads as short as possible as the grid, along with input,, is the most sensitive part of the amp. It is best to preserve the AC guitar signal as much as possible. Shielded cable is also recommended, thanks again D, have a good one!!
Mas untuk diagram rangkain tampak jalul kaki yg berwarna untuk type 256A-02 philips ad gak yaa itu radio tube saya nyarik di google gak ad cuman yg ad itu nampak warna hitam
@@SynZ777 indeed, what ever way is easiest for different folkes. I like old-school turret boards, however I've seen some very well built pcb's that are great. If one can make their amp quiet, in terms of unwanted noise, by whatever method then all good.
I am interested in making amplifier with EL 41/. 84 and EBF80,& rectifier EZ80.spares not available easily.&out Put transform,toooo.Help me pl. as to connect components in proper manner.4 best outputs thanks
I use solid core for filaments. Also solid core for all hookup wire on the turret board. I use twisted core for any cable that is shielded. I find that, once shielded, twisted cable gives me more resilience should I need to move the cable. The twisted cable I use is high temperature, military spec, 22awg. I source that from tube depot. It's fairly cheap from memory, but very good. I make my own shielded cable.
Nice work! Question, is there any special reason to use the braided grounding buss instead of just lacing the lugs? Also, I noticed you rarely use the top of the lugs for connections...why is that?
Thanks Dan! I use a large braided band as an earth strap as it forms a nice large pathway for the return currents. This setup is much better than having separate earth points all over the chassis. It just means that all the earth currents are going in the same direction toward a single point. The potential for unwanted noise is reduced. I wrap the lead around the turret rather than placing it down the tube as it provides a better connection. Cheers
holy hell, man...meticulous workmanship!! it was instantly recognizable. i work on tube amps and audio circuits for a living, i see a LOT of circuits and lead dress, this is easily top tier work. top notch lighting and camera work as well!
Thanks Jon! Really appreciate it, cheers
Excellent that you showed detecting and correcting a mistake. All projects have them.
That's really slick when you lift your completed board & sockets off the template and drop 'em in the chassis. And they fit: ta-dah! Even though I watched you do the templates and drill the chassis and re-use the template to use as a jig, it's still really schmick when you just drop it in. Excellent work!
Your camera 🎥 work is immaculate. Up close and in focus, very helpful for for aspiring hobbyists! Thanks for these!
Beautiful build - well planned, executed, and presented. Certainly one of the finest tutorials I have had the pleasure of watching. Thanks.
Thank You Steven!
When a tech-head is also an artist. Fantastic work!
Thank you, really appreciate the kind words!
Wow. Just wow! I've watched at least 20 video builds. Yours are in a complete different league . Best I've ever seen.
Really appreciate it, thanks Coffee!!
This gentleman must be awarded as the best fitter in the World )
Thank you!!
That is some of the neatest lead dress I've seen in a while. Thanks for sharing your work
Thank you! Much appreciated!
I'm a software engineer who appreciates real engineering :P This kind of work is art to me, hope to build my own amp soon.
Thanks so much, best of luck with your own amp build, Cheers
We are alike, then! :)
I love working with turrets - such a clean look and very asthetically pleasing.
I use a more military style of soldering on my tube sockets where instead of simply pushing through and soldering - I wrap the wire around the connector tab ensuring a good connection before soldering.
Not judging - I see your style of soldering on tube sockets often enough - but I also repair a lot of tube socket connections soldered in that manner as well.
Great work.
I should video some of my work as well.
Thanks for kind words. Definitely wrapping the eyelets of the tubes with component leads is the best technique indeed. I just lay them in the lugs as I often change their position and once it's wrapped it's very hard to remove or change. I find that if the leads are tinned well and the solder joint is a nice meniscus then I have few problems. Very good observation though and quite correct. Thanks again and all the best for your builds!
USAF and NASA actually reccomend that method You use in those videos for soldering aircarft and rocket parts in their old instruction films.
Very nice work. My compliments on the entire build. I just wish I had the understanding of the build to follow through. I have no knowledge of electrical whatsoever. I can soldier and I can run electrical wiring in my home and that's it. BUT I'm a hands on person. I have to visualize what I'm doing. With that said... I would love and I'm sure many others like me if you can find the time for a video first with a list of everything needed, then a step by step on the build. I know it's too much to ask, but I'm sure it could be the number one most watched video on a tube build amp. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Again great PROFESSIONAL build. Hats of to you
Thanks Gil. I hear you, and I too was in the exact same position. I knew how to make stuff, including welding a soldering iron, however had no clue how tube amps worked. For me it was just brute force perseverance until something clicked one day. I was planning on a set of theory videos to go along with these step by step build videos however, they seemed like they caused more confusion rather than the opposite. I decided to let the build videos run and then I would post a set of theory vids to try and unravel the mysteries of the tube amp. I quickly found that it is a very hard subject indeed and it will be a challenge simplifying things down into a coherent series but it needs be done as I think the information, delivered in understandable terms, is missing. Thanks for your comment and hope we can get to a level of understanding in the end. Have a great day and thank you!
Keep at it. It just takes time. And a few burnt fingers
I was trained in the 70s never to have components over the valve base, however all said it is very neat.
Very clean build! I've seen very expensive hi-fi tube amps that didn't have that level of care or precision. I favor stranded wire personally, I find it withstands the wiggling movement of tube socket pins better, and for that reason I don't mount passive components directly to tube sockets. But this arrangement of yours results in a very compact design and minimal wire lengths. Everything's a tradeoff.
Thank you! Indeed solid core yields when bent too many times. For that reason I also use stranded wire for my shielded cable. Where there is little chance of movement, I use solid core as it keeps its shape. Wiring components straight on the tube lugs is certainly problematic in terms of replacement, however the potential reduction in noise overides this for me, a trade off for sure. Great points, thanks for commenting, much appreciated.
I commend you for your soldering. It’s very common to see leads trimmed after a joint is flowed. Those clipped ends need to be tinned to prevent oxidation inside a wire.
Good point, thanks for that.
Amazing, clean and precise work. You are a master of your craft. Excellent job! 👊🏻💪🏼
I have always want to build a tube amplifier since i started building speakers, i am definitely a newbie to this area, and by watching your video, i can actually learn to build one on my own.
And wow! The video quality is also on point! Those close ups are so detail, what a pleasure to watch your work!
I'm gonna watch the whole playlist lol
Glad the videos were helpful. I'm just filming another build series of the same amp with a 3 band tone stack. It should be a bit more informative with regard to design aspects of the build. It's a long haul wrapping your head around tube amp design but if I can get there, I'm sure you can too. Many thanks again, cheers
Дуже дякую за відео! Це висший пілотаж в монтажі підсилювачів! 👍🙂 Є деякі моменти в яких я: уникаю монтаж навісним в два поверхи компонентів, а також я ніколи не підпаюю деталі прямо до лампових панелей, так як при нагріві ламп тепло через ніжки передається весь час на припаєні деталі та значно нагріває їх. Це може впливати на довговічність їх роботи. Ну це звісно субєктивно на мій погляд 👍🙂
so satisfying to watch your soldering and wire job...
Thank you, glad it was of help, cheers
A real pleasure to see your way to use the wires.....great!
This is pure art. You sir are the "Clickspring" of amp builders!
Excellent sequence of videos ... you are very careful and capricious in the assembly!! Thanks a lot for showing.
Anybody who says soldering isn’t sexy hasn’t seen this ! 😍
I am a lover of masterpieces made with love and affection your work is getting beautiful .. GOOD LUCK
I thought I was neat with my layout of wiring in my builds but you are way better! Great closeups and great soldering technique.
Thanks so much for that, super sorry about late reply, really appreciate it!
Very neat job👍. I’ve seen fairly expensive amps made way less neat than your little amp there. Valve bases seemed to have quite loose contact tags which would have set off my ocd 🤣. I much prefer solder turrets to solder tag strips. Much neater.
Beautiful work! Great photography as well. Nicely done.
Thanks Flux! Nice channel BTW, Old Blue is a very interesting piece indeed, I enjoyed checking it out. Cheers!!
Surgical precision just like the camera gimbal series :)
"Surgical." That's exactly the word that came to mind as I watched this.
A couple of years ago I built my first amp, a Princeton Champ, from scratch using hand picked components, NOS tubes and 16ga aluminum for the chassis. It looks and sounds fantastic if I do say so myself, but only from the outside. The inside looks like it was assembled with a blow torch and pliers as it shows my poor soldering skills. It is not something that I am proud of. On a positive note I do have the chassis mounted inside a home build cab where only the chassis is visible. I am the only one that knows what lies underneath the cherry red chassis, and yes it still bothers me.
Thanks JN!! Really appreciate it!
Sounds like a cool little amp you made!. For some reason I get a kick out of having things looking solid on the inside, even though very few may ever see it. The more and more amps I build, the more it feels like creating a sculpture or something. I find it very satisfying to try and improve the design by creating a rock solid layout with everything easily accessible and as neat as possible. Its an interesting thing, thanks for the input and comment. Have a great day!
It was fun but a little frustrating - similar to the range of emotions someone playing golf might experience. A couple of solid drives and you're king of the hill, but 2 balls in the water on the next hole and you feel like the lowest rookie on the course. A major point of my frustration is that after planning for a couple of weeks I expected better results.
I wanted to challenge myself by going DIY all the way instead of buying a kit so I started with a flat sheet of scrap aluminum from a metal shop. I planned to form the chassis myself but they offered to bend it for me and I didn't say no. t's roughly the same size as yours and turned out perfect.
With a perfect box for my chassis I then began the layout for the transformers, tubes, jacks, etc. After several hours of research, planning and cutting I stated assembling the amp and discovered very quickly that soldering would be my "fly in the ointment." Oh I got it right technically. The amp sounds great and is free from the the hum that Champ circuits are known for. I attribute that to shielding. grounding and placement of the tubes, but certainly not my workmanship.
I do not consider myself a perfectionist but I believe I am capable of doing better The outside really turned out well though. I used etching primer and then sprayed it a deep red with 3 coats of clear. And at some point in the painting process I decided to continue on and make a mini-stack. I fabricated a head cab,and included a black wire mesh grille from a storm door,, and then a cab for a 12" speaker all covered with black Tolex, Fender handles and chrome cab corners. For the grille I used the silver blackface Fender cloth. The red chassis with chicken head knobs looked somewhat odd mixed with all that black and silver so I framed the inside of the head and speaker cab with 1/4" oak stained with red cherry and secured with brass screws.
What I ended up with:
GE NOS tubes
F&T filter caps
Jupiter tone stack
Hammond transformers
Bourn pots + one extra for the NF loop.
Metal film resistors
WGS 12" Jensen clone - don't remember the exact model.
1 lb. of solder (well maybe not a pound) :-)
What I have described may seem unique and maybe even attractive to some but to me the inside of the amp is not. It was my first so perhaps my expectations were a little high. It looks good and I enjoy it even with the flaws.
I wish that I had your skill. I've seen many amp builds and I am sure a factory built amp wouldn't look this good.
Exquisite. Impressed with the Sozo, PRP, Kiwame. Your work deserves better diodes!
Ha true true, thanks for kind words. Any recommendations on which diodes to upgrade to? Cheers
@@elams1894 Fairchild Stealth, SiC Schottky. Parrallelling the SiC tames the bite and smooths switching.
Do you have a scope?
@@Xsheaffer Thanks, yes I have a scope.
@@elams1894 Excellent. The reason I ask is that any of the diode implementations also benefit greatly in full wave from a tuned snubber at the xformer hv secondary. This needs a scope. If you try, hear, and like the different diodes, you'll pick up more fluidity and beauty with a snubber. You have to exert care to tune it fairly exactly with an analog scope for each particular combination of PT, B+, diodes, filter, load. I am at gmail if you want to discuss over email.
@@Xsheaffer thanks for that. Tuned snubber? Elams1894@gmail.com
Lovely work. You didn’t need to redo the blue and red twisting on that socket. The hum cancelling comes from the current in each conductor going in opposite directions. Twisting simply makes it effectively the smallest diameter for the two conductors. Obviously a blue wire going to the socket twisted with a blue wire coming from the socket WILL be hum cancelling because the currents are flowing in opposite directions.
How would the blue wire hum cancel itself?
Very honest of
Thanks for sharing your corrections too
I’d would have been very easy to edit it out
Very impressive! The surgical precision with which you bent leads and wires is inspiring, although I would hate to be the tech who has to change out those caps 20 years down the road.
Thanks! It shouldnt be too hard to replace the components when necessary as the layout is all open plan and fairly easy to get to. I hate it when amps are just a big birds nest, makes it impossible to get to things, especially when wires and such are laid under the turret board. Cheers.
elams1894 My concern wasn’t that they couldn’t get it- it was that their work would be immediately detectable as below standard. Ha ha ha! Cheers.
Beautiful work you are an artist with those leads 👍
Nice soldering close-ups!
I found the point re. filament wiring interesting. I have 2 builds with the configuration you used initially. I am tempted to re-do them now.
Filming and execution next level! Brilliant!! Thanks
Произведение искусства!
Beautiful resistors.
ASMR tube amp building right there.
Thank you!
Clicked my way here. Beautiful work!
Thanks pre war, glad you got through to the end, much appreciated
Smart way to use Blutak.. The layout is well done. Kiwame carbon film has good tone, not just for HiFi.
Thanks Rick! I love Kiwame, very nice resistors. I also have some Takman carbon films I've yet to try out. The Japanese stuff is very nice indeed. Cheers!
You sure know what are doing: a please to watch, thanks for sharing. My regards to the land of the Long White Cloud ;
This build pleases my OCD.
I'm glad there are others out there with OCD 😂, cheers!
Beautiful craftsmanship!
Love you build videos. Amazing attention to detail.
All that beautiful work and then to put cable ties on the loom, surprised , only my opinion!
It’s so soothing to watch this.
The person who is gonna evantyally repair this amp will not thank you for wrapping around, you do.
You do nice solder work! Very meticulous. Nice to watch. Very satisfying, since i likely won't be able to do this myself, but would love to build "my own way" a Fender Deluxe. Best regards from the west coast of Canada! - ss
Very satisfying to watch sir great job....❤️❤️
Du bist ein old school Freiluftverdrahter!
Deine Finger sind auch etwas verletzt.
Wow. Extremely neat work! Bravo.
This was GREAT! So meticulous WELL DONE!!
Thanks JT! Sorry for late reply, not sure how I missed it, have a great day!!!
Nice mechanic implementation!
transformer orientation is very important stops the humm and them talking to each other
That wire looks like it has great insulation that doesn't shrink back with heat. Do you know off-hand what brand / material it is?
Stray inductance - the amplifier ;-)
Dear Elam?,
Sorry, I am not sure about your fisrt name.
It is Peter from Hungary. I purchased the plans and building the amp based on your awesome instructions. I just encountered one mistake in the chassis position plan, that is a bit confusing. Resistors nr.21 and nr.22 are both marked as nr.14 in the chassis position plan.
Apart from that, the plan, the instructions are really excellent. I will post a video on the final amp. I am using Hammond transformers and red drop capacitors as they are easier to get in Europe. I will be curious about the sound.
Please post instructions for any further builds, I would gladly work on other projects as well.
Thanks,
Peter
Thanks Peter, yes those two values I must change. The circuit diagram is the accurate one. That's great you are building the amp. Good call on the Hammonds. I have found that the ClassicTone Primary is getting very very hot, even though it's a supposed upgrade. I would be very keen to see your vid. I have been drawing the plans for another design. Essentially the same preamp with a pretty decent treble bass tone stack. I'll produce the schematic with single output tube and also push pull el84s. I have been Ultra busy with a new born daughter so time is tight but stay in touch, perhaps leave email on my personal message. Kind regards..
@@elams1894
The same here. :) Newborn daughter and not much time, but I enjoy the build very-very much. This is my first tube-amp build, so not as neat as yours, but I try to follow your hand.
Regarding the Hammonds - I will use Hammond 370DX as power, and 125DSE as output transformers. These are a bit more expensive, but getting ClassicTones in Europe is a almost impossible...
I will write some more details in private to your email address.
Cheers,
Peter
you don't need to drill the filament in EVERY case. I built lots of amps without drilling and have no hum at all. Look at the Soldano Slo 100, for example :)
Do you mean 'twisting'?..., rather than 'drilling'?
what a beautiful all metal screw driver :)
Ha ha, yeah I like to live life on the egde indeed. I took a massive hit from the plate of a tube recently. For some as yet unknown reason I left the power on, yes, crazy, and then proceeded to fiddle with the plate. The one hand in the pocket saved my bacon. The hardest lessons in life are the ones most remembered. Always stay safe in those chassis man, have a good one!!
@@elams1894 When I modified CRTs for a crude oscilloscope art installation I used to work on them with the "hand grabing the unpluged cord" technique, probably overly cautious but I'm a scared y cat with high voltages, great video man!
Thank you for your series. It is very detail, clear, and helpful for other aumateur. Very high quality of build..
This looks pretty sweet. PRP resistors?, and great caps. Two years on here, can you link me to something demonstrating the outcome? Pardon me if I have missed it. This video just came up on my yt.
No worries, forgive the cam corder mic demo, however you get the idea. Cheers th-cam.com/video/wt6ysax7xQ0/w-d-xo.html
O mundo nao sera mais como antes ! mas sera muito melhor , Tamo junto, .com Fe em Deus vamos chegar lá .... Um grande abraço;;;
very nice job! and great filming!
Sweet man , love the asthetics.....👍👍
Thank you!
Beautiful assembly.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Top level wiring, impressive
How do you plan a Turret layout- have the stuff, don't know how to start. Thanks for any advice.
Seriously great video. Thanks for sharing. Respectfully submitted, Ed Weiss.
No worries, thanks Ed!
First time I stumbled upon your channel what amazing work I just got into the hobby of tube amplifier building myself I will use your level of work as a goal to achieve. 👍
Thanks tl! Glad you liked the vids, have a great day!
Excelente trabajo; Artístico. (Excellent work; Artistic.)
Artístico translates more accurately to 'Work of art'. Just FYI ;)
This series is very inspirational! very pedagogic and patient. I am going to start my first 5f2a build, and this is perfect motivation. I want to incorporate some of your technique. Your ground weave is a nice touch. Is it always preferable to only have a single star ground point? I see in quite a few other builds that people tend to at least separate the power ground from the signal ground.
Thanks for kind words. Yes it's preferable to seperate the power and signal grounds. I grounded them close to each other in the same region of this amp. Grounding is ultra important indeed. A single ground region is preferable in low hertz applications as in audio amps, certainly a single star ground configuration is the ultimate for the signal circuit. All the best for your build!
I also wonder about your preference for tube sockets that attach from below. Why is this preferable from the ones that attach on top of the chassis?
@@andrew_nayes great spotting. It's way easier to bolt from the other direction as you suggest. However because I use tube shields, the nut will not fit if bolted from the other side. The only option I have is to bolt from top of chassis down. What I do now to overcome this problem, as it's a real PITA, is that I glue the nut in position on the underside of the chassis. This makes life much easier. Well spotted though, good eyes.
The board should be between the components and the heat source and interference of the valves? Meaning you should be using wire to connect from components affixed on the board to the valves?
That is some beautiful work!
Solder your ground lead to the case
Thank you for sharing, very informative.
You are most welcome, have a great day!
Where I am from we use turret boards to build amps as well, but we stick the leads in the eyes of the turrets to keep everything as short as possible, run ground wire across the potentiometers, and shielded cable for the AC signal, making sure to ground only one side of the shielded cable. Then you only have to solder the top of the turrets. I am confused why you wrapped your leads around the turret. What is the reasoning for doing that? I am asking to know if that is the preferred way. Also, because I was taught differently. Thanks. p.s. it seems you've made your chases a giant antenna.
There is no point in shielding AC cables; from what would you be shielding them? Most would prefer to shield the signal FROM the AC cables. You can earth the bodies of the pots if you chose, however there is little benefit unless the pots are isolated from the chassis. I wrap my leads around the turret as it forms a superior contact, however nothing wrong with using the eye. I like to keep the eye free in case I need to use it later. I earth my audio at the input jack. This was an old build and the audio earth could have benefitted from being in a different position, however it is fairly quiet in terms of unwanted noise. What is your reasoning behind the chassis antenna? The chassis is not harbouring a magnetic field. Cheers
@@elams1894 good on ya. Is a nice and tidy build. That’s for sure. Keep on making them. It’s like pie. There isn’t just one type of pie. It’s a labor of love for sure.
Q. Who makes those sexy red cases resistors? Nice work, picked up some great build ideas, thanks for a quality production start to finish!
I want to know as well! @elams1894
Jim The Budget Audiophile, they are PRP resistors (precision resistive products)
What's with the Zoso caps? Do they make your amp sound like Jimmy Page?
Yes, in his prime.
Twisting wires creates capacitance. Would it not be better to avoid that?
Why would twisting cause additional capacitance? They already have an enormous magnetic field attributed to them so even in a situation of increased capacitance, I can't see what difference that would make to the system? Cheers.
this looks spectacular... great camera work too.
i have a question: is it desirable to keep the leads as short as possible, or is it that in practice 0.5 -> 1inch does not make a difference in noise level?
Hi again Durox. Yes it is very important to keep grid resistor leads as short as possible as the grid, along with input,, is the most sensitive part of the amp. It is best to preserve the AC guitar signal as much as possible. Shielded cable is also recommended, thanks again D, have a good one!!
Mas untuk diagram rangkain tampak jalul kaki yg berwarna untuk type 256A-02 philips ad gak yaa itu radio tube saya nyarik di google gak ad cuman yg ad itu nampak warna hitam
Jimmy Page's capacitors?
Thought the same!:)
This is art. Not tube amp construction. :)
It's like a relaxation video))). Thanks for new vid.
Very nice work.
Thanks General!
I saw the thumbnail ...and subscribed! ;)
very nice sir.....best regard
where to get the soldering stubs
Why do they still use turret board and not PCBs in DIY amp builds?
Because they are easier to build and easier to repair. Cheers
@@elams1894 I strongly do not agree that they are easier to build, but repairing traces and such on a PCB is a nightmare.
@@SynZ777 indeed, what ever way is easiest for different folkes. I like old-school turret boards, however I've seen some very well built pcb's that are great. If one can make their amp quiet, in terms of unwanted noise, by whatever method then all good.
Nice work Sir... thanks 😎
Anyone subscribe to Mr Chckadee? This guy is his electronic equivalent. Just amazing stuff. So methodical. So calming.
Thanks Scrumpy!
Congratulation, I like it !
Thank you! Cheers!
This is so good!!! Loving the series.
Thanks Greg! Hope the move is going smooth and you have had a bit of time for the guitar. Glad you are liking the series, thank you!
Whats materiale Is made the board and wiring noded? Where can I buy It? It s perfecr for air wiring
I made the board out of glass fibre and epoxy resin, cheers
A work of art!
I am interested in making amplifier with EL 41/. 84 and EBF80,& rectifier EZ80.spares not available easily.&out Put transform,toooo.Help me pl. as to connect components in proper manner.4 best outputs thanks
are all your wires solid core cloth type Gavitt?
I use solid core for filaments. Also solid core for all hookup wire on the turret board. I use twisted core for any cable that is shielded. I find that, once shielded, twisted cable gives me more resilience should I need to move the cable. The twisted cable I use is high temperature, military spec, 22awg. I source that from tube depot. It's fairly cheap from memory, but very good. I make my own shielded cable.
Nice project
Thanks elektronik!
Nice work! Question, is there any special reason to use the braided grounding buss instead of just lacing the lugs? Also, I noticed you rarely use the top of the lugs for connections...why is that?
Thanks Dan! I use a large braided band as an earth strap as it forms a nice large pathway for the return currents. This setup is much better than having separate earth points all over the chassis. It just means that all the earth currents are going in the same direction toward a single point. The potential for unwanted noise is reduced. I wrap the lead around the turret rather than placing it down the tube as it provides a better connection. Cheers