Great setup tweak for bolt-on neck guitars
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Usually perceptibly effective, quick and completely free if you own a screwdriver. No risk or downside, works for me and everyone I've introduced to it, try it for yourself.
Actually a remake of a previous video which I refer to often but which TH-cam has lost 🤬 Enjoy and please feed back 👍
If you try this on your screw-neck guitar, check both E strings at the neck heel when you're done to make sure they are equidistant from the edges of the fretboard. Loosening the neck like this can allow the neck to scoot a little out of alignment and one oof the E strings may slip off the ends of the frets up the neck if it's too close to the edge. They are indeed screws...not bolts.
Very good point and great build, thank you 👍
@@RockbeareguitarsThis is super important. Several years ago, I did this trick on a guitar and my high E ended up too close to the edge. I thought it was a manufacturing flaw. I did it as soon as the guitar came in without playing it much, so I didn't realize it was from doing this trick. I even bought a new, very expensive bridge to make my strings closer together. Then I did it to another guitar and the same thing happened which is when I realized what had happened... But I had already spent $400 on the bridge for the other guitar.
@@XChristianNoirX Thanks for this. I replied to another similar comment a few days ago. It’s in the thread. This has it happened to me on Al the guitars I’ve done so far but I do a have a couple whose necks sideways angle can move slightly if I’m not careful and keep them tight.
I have several guitars that I put inserts in the neck so they would sound better , & they do!
@@ericwright6672me too, working out great.
Its wild how 35 years ago I was embarrassed that I had a Squier Strat and not an actual Fender. I would always call it a Fender and never refer to it as a Squier for that reason but now a days its actually cool to have a Squier. I wish I still had it.
I'll take the Pepsi taste test with squier standard strats and teles any day of the week
Mid 80s MIJ Squiers were made by Fujigen plant, some of the best vintage-spec strats ever made. Highly collectable, nothing to shame about, miles apart from today’s Squier. Remember, they were made during US Fender shutdown.
I have an old squier with the big head stock that I picked up about 6 years ago for 40$ ...One of the best players I have
Was skeptical at first. Tried it and now I’m a believer. Thanks for passing this along! Cheers
I've doing this for years and believe me it makes a difference
Thank-you. I've bought a few set-ups that should have included this. Excellent presentation style , cheers!
I've been doing this accidentally, just as a side effect of how I would square up the neck with the strings on. Now I know to do it on purpose! 😁
nice trick, will give it a try on my squier tele custom II from 2010. An absolute budget but nice guitar
I do this on all of my bolt on guitars. I would say about 75% of the time, it makes a difference. In general, if its out of tune when you tighten it back up that means that the neck was pulled into the pocket further. Also double check your intonation after you do this as this can shorten the nut to bridge length slightly.
"double check your intonation after you do this as this can shorten the nut to bridge length". This was truly my first thought when he loosened the neck screws under tension.
Then I noticed your screen-name. Engineers know how stuff works!
Works great. Just did it to one of my bolt ons and it helped the sustain. I just loosened each screw about 1/8 to 1/4. Heard the neck set popping as described. Tuned it back up did the procedure again. Tightened and tuned and it’s working great. Thank you for the set up advice.
Congratulations 🎉 you've got yourself a real winner here. Thanks for sharing. Tried it immediately. Impressive.
It works, 100%. Been doing it for years.
chiropractic neck technique, if you like to bend a lot that's the right setup for but if you strum or finger picking it sounds dull.
I’m so trying this…😮
Simply BRILLIANT😎
Yep. I saw this trick years ago. Works well. I also saw PRS mention using a wood block and lightly tapping the back of a tremolo bridge to seat it better. I don’t play trem guitars. So I’ve not done it. And I would def use a light tap. But it makes sense.
Fwiw I also tend to take my bolt neck guitars apart and clean any excess paint out of the pocket. It’s amazing how much can be in there. I just use a single edge razor like a card scraper. And I don’t worry too much. Just the big stuff.
That all makes sense. How satisfying. Subscribed.
Such a handy tip
Unreal how much difference it made on some of my guitars
Thanks so much
Tried this on my new Sire S3 . Heard some movement and re tightened screws . Had to adjust intonation. Made a big difference. Thanks for the tip!
carrying out this operation on a full moon evening is even more profitable
I'll try this today on my squire tele. thanks for the tip
Great trick!! I've seen this before and can't remember who it was that shared this. So now, when I tell folks about this, you are getting the credit! Thanks for the share!! 😎👍
This should also increase tuning stability. Great idea, thanks for sharing.
If you have a pickguard that touches the neck heel, make sure you loosen the pickguard screws before doing this.
I've heard of this! Beautiful! I've got a $300 new/used squire to try this on! Thank you so much!
Amazing !!! ... I had it done, noted the improvement, liked, and subscribed, before the video was even over.
Thank you
Be sure to check your intonation after doing this. If this procedure is successful it should there should be a slight difference in the intonation before versus after.
Wonder why no one else mentioned this, thanks!
Well I’ll be damned! Tried that just now on my old tele - heard the little crunch - tightened it up again and wow! Thanks Bob!
It rings beautifully
Good to hear it worked for you. It’s repeatable periodically too, albeit with diminishing returns. Had a few snarky comments from people who likely haven’t tried it but got out of the bed on the wrong side so extra gratified to hear your success 👍
It works! just did this on my Cimar strat which i thought was perfect but as I was watching your video I realised my Silver Sky SE has a bigger acoustic sound and the whole guitar vibrates-they all do-so PRS obviously already know this trick. Now my cimar does it as well. Sounds great!
It's over a hundred pounds of clamping force better than any clamp a luthier could hope to use for this application haha.
Any guitars that I've bought that have the micro tilt for neck adjustment, I take those out and redo them. I want wood on wood to transfer vibration, sustain,tone.
Surprise! Surprise! Suprise!.....Watched your video, and it made sense. So, I was expecting a really minor improvement. Can't believe how big of a difference it made! Brightened it up, and much better resonance! Thanks!
Great tip BUT before re tightening the screws check you neck horizontal alignment viewing the high and low e strings in proportion to their spacing from the fret ends. Many neck pockets have enough play to mis align the string centering. The D and G strings relation too the fret markers can help.
Do a before and after comparison video on a new guitar. Unplugged and plugged in
I would but I don’t have any plans to purchase any new guitars. Just an early fifties blackguard Telecaster - if I can find one I can afford - and that will be as far from new as you can get!
This works only if you got lucky and have a guitar that has a clean neck pocket, which is rare in anything below custom shop level these days. If you want to go all the way, you have to take the neck apart and sand down all the residual paint, sawdust, popped up wood around screw holes, sharp edges on the neck heel… for me the bolt-on is superior in every way to set-in neck but it has to be properly bolt on…
I can see where you may have to re-intonate the guitar if it actually does move it slightly back into that "pocket".
Nice personality here has helped to make this a really good watch. (I mean nice to view). I remember years ago (about 65) when I used to hold the bout onto our dining table to increase the depth of the sound. In the meantime I have learned that the neck can have more bearing on the sound you get than you would ever believe. If you ever get a good one - hold on to it........ I mean don't let it go. Nope..... don't part with it.... !! The dining table !!!! BjG
Agree completely about necks
Agree completely about necks
I think I did hear the little crunch, barely
Nice tip
just did it - works like a charm! cheers Bob
So glad to hear it’s not just me and my imagination!
done it on my 4 bolt ons with no discernible effect at all!! recorded b4 and after - sounds exactly the same.
Sorry to hear that. Perhaps they were already in fine fettle beforehand?
@@Rockbeareguitars perhaps - they include an early 80s columbus strat (£8 from a charity shop - truly awful , but a bargain) and a yank tele that's regularly set up.
The Cabronita is one cool Tele. I’ve a Mexican one from 2013.
Thanks for posting this tip! I haven't done it yet, wish to read more comments (which some have added value), but I haven't read the question, 'How often should this be done?' or if by doing this only once it should suffice thereafter. But how often should this tweak be done?
Not that often but can be done as often as you like provided you are careful/gentle. Depends how often you restring too - I don’t restring often so I’d probably perform this tweak each time, but no need if you gig a lot and restring every few days. Hope this helps and that you find it works for you when you try it…
Great tip!
Cheers 🍻
I'm curious, does this trick apply to basses as well ?
I'm not saying this method doesn't work, from you enthusiasm it's easy to surmise that it probably does work. However the concept of it doesn't really make sense to me, since yes the strings will have pulled the neck into the pocket but the screw holes in the neck never moved. Logic would dictate that once you tighten the screws, the neck would just move back to where the holes were drilled from the factory. In any case if this makes guitars more chimey, why don't guitar manufacturers drive the bolts into the neck diagonally? That way, when you tighten the bolts it would not only pull the neck down vertically but also drive it into the body horizontally.
Great stuff.
I cant wait to try that on the next bolt on- any intonation or action change?
One reason not to over tighten would be so the screw doesn't push the fretboard up towards the strings!
Seemed to work on my Squier Tele, I think it's better.
Good to hear
Good to hear
Thanks for posting this. You are a genius 👍👍👍
Generous! But thanks and glad you enjoyed it.
Stupid question time.Is this true for basses? I ask because as we know the tension on a bass neck is greater and I wonder if this might change things.
Haven’t tried it but probably - and carefully!
Great tip,well explained. Thanks
Contact with heel surface is overrated, I have guitars with a shim in the pocket which does the opposite of this whole concept and they still play nice
Thanks the great thing about guitar, it’s all according to taste and there is no “right way”. My videos tend to report on things that work for me, and invite viewers to perhaps try for themselves. I try and make it clear what things involve, how much they cost and whether they are reversible without leaving permanent marks.
Why is a very short video a good thing? A very long video on set ups is much better! This is a very good video and not because it's short. Thank you
Hogwash
Great tip, I have a couple of inexpensive bolt on guitars …..and tried this tip ..and it definitely worked wonders..even heard the crunch!!! Thank you.
Great tip that all guitarists should know - thanjs for sharing. Yes, it makes a big difference, particularly on basses in my experience.
I think also, it's good to mention the neck screw holes in the body. On just about every cheaper guitar, the neck screws actually thread into the body as well as the neck. I think it's because of a production shortcut where the neck is clamped in the neck pocket and the screw holes are drilled in one go. Quicker and in line. However, to get good clamping pressure, there must be clearance in the body holes for the screw to move freely through, so on any setup I check a re-drill as necessary. Having those few microns of clearance also benefit this 'knuckle cracking' procedure, as well as allowing some adjustment to correct kneck misalignment.
Was a bit sceptical...but tried it on my bolt on neck guitars, and I swear I can hear a difference on almost all if them - more zing and treble or something - very cool!
No risk or down side?
- a person who doesn't know what they are doing could ruin the screw holes on the body and / or the neck.
- the end result may not produce a sound or tone that is superior in the ears of the player to what they already had.
I have a thirty year old Stratocaster that will sustain a plucked note or chord until the middle of next week. Absolutely no way I would perform this tweak on that guitar for fear or ruining the sounds it produces when amplfied. It's a solid body electric guitar, I don't care about what it sounds like when played acoustically.
Personally, I've played many solid body electrics that sounded great played unplugged but not so good amplified. And I've played ones that sounded horrible acoustically but wonderful when amplified. YMMV.
Cheers from the Land Down Under.
I learned something today. Thanks! If someone happens to have a stripped wood screw, simply remove the screw and dip a toothpick in some wood glue (Elmers glue works too) and insert it in the hole and trim flush. Reinsert and tighten the screw. That should do ‘er . Toothpicks are likely softwood, so alternatively , you could take a sharp knife, cut a hardwood shaving and do the same thing. Theoretically, you wouldn’t even need the glue, the taper of the screw should compress it in there just fine. The glue would just give you a little more permanence.
Don’t actually even need the glue.
You can pack saw dust into the whole then use superglue But even a better solution is to put sand, yes sand into the whole pack it down with pressure of a wooden match stick end put superglue. The sand soaks it up making the area very firm. Measure the screw thread and chose a smaller sized drill bit with a brad tip. Put tape around drill bit tip a little shy of the total length of the screw. Drill hole to tape and reinstall the screw. Only do this for a neck with a major loose screw hole. I've custom built and repaired guitars for years and have done this on many guitars. If it's a more expensive guitar and holes are lose I drill a larger hole and ute a dowel rod in. Buy I use a dremel to cut a thin line going up each side of the dowel, this allows for excess titebond wood glue to come out if it needs to. Re-screw doing the same measurements as I said above. More work but better than using toothpicks. And if there is a time to use toothpicks find bamboo. They sell them in the same area of toothpicks and home repair.
Is everybody else’s upset as me when people and videos seem to use way too many words instead of just getting to the point. What’s the hack? I get what he’s doing, he’s bumping the seconds and minutes of the video so that he gets paid more for us watching. Get to the point already!
Sadly not true, at least not yet. I’m still in the queue to monetise. Nice thought though, and you’ve given me the idea to string out future videos which I doubt was your intention 😁
@@RockbeareguitarsLMAO!
🤪 👍 👌
I have a few basses I might try this on ...just seem to have lost their punch
Brett Kingman pointed me your way! Great tip, and something I’ll definitely be trying on my inbound Strat when it arrives.
I used to do this, and actually forgot about it for awhile. Thanks for bringing it back to my attention!
This makes so much sense, great tip. Just tried it on my MIM Strat & J Bass, worked as described.
Wow! Will test it on all my bolt-on guitars!
What a great video! Subscribed!!!
Great tip that I learned years ago!! I'd like to add that when doing this I have found that once you have loosened the screws to lightly tap the guitar on the floor at the bottom strap button while only holding the body ( not the neck) vertically. Once or twice should do it. I've found it seats the neck in the pocket a little better than just using the string tension to do it. Has worked for me for years.
I just let the strings pull the neck into the pocket, but this sounds even better. I’m gonna do my Telly asap.
That does work, I've found. The only thing I'd caution against is to not tap the strap button because that can crack the finish around the button or mess up the strap button screw. You can get the same result by getting two 2x4 wood blocks or maybe saw horses and pushing them together on the floor, leaving enough space for the strap button in the middle so it doesn't hit the floor, and tap both sides of the bottom of the body simultaneously, which will achieve the same thing but without damaging the guitar.
Nice, thanks guys 👍
Books if they still existed.
So basically its the same principle as you would seat an axe head. Quite ingenious.
I’ve done this for years. Dan Erlewine gave this tip in one of his books. It closes the gap in the neck pocket and improves the contact between the neck and body to improve sustain.
Bob, saw this some years ago on a video from Guitar Guts, probably the same as you saw. I concur, it works. Another thing the anti-bolt neck people never acknowledge is with a bolt neck you can change the neck angle of your guitar with a screwdriver and shim material. And in a matter of minutes.
Bolt on is a superior design.
Just is….
Come at me Gibson
@@silverjaw138 Agreed.
I have always been a Gibson guy but recently bought a Pro II Strat and quite like the micro tilt feature that allows me to adjust neck angle with the turn of a screw and no shims necessary. Also, my Taylor acoustic has a bolt on neck and I can’t believe how easy it was for me to do my own neck reset. So I guess I have to concede, as a Gibson enthusiast, I’m not prepared to come at anyone praising bolt on necks. They’re much easier to work with in every way.
I’m looking forward to trying out this set-up tip on my Strat!
That is a great hack! Thanks for the video.
Trying this for a squier and a sterling…
Wouldn't having the neck sit further into the Guitar body throw off the intonation?
It’s 10.30pm. It’s a school night. But I just had to get up out of bed and go try this on my Tele.
This WILL NOT affect your "hooked up" tone AT ALL.
If you have zero idea what good tone is and run death metal levels of preamp gain, thus rendering any raw tonal attributes of your guitar invalid, what you say might be true. Small adjustments are negligible or insignificant when one's tonal preferences and tactics could make a Mesa-Boogie no better sounding than a Crate
But I'm here to tell you, that this absolutely can, will and does "affect your hooked up tone" in the areas of sustain and musicality -- if you're seasoned and experienced enough to notice or care. It's a details thing that a player sensitive to how their instrument feels would notice.
It won't take a garbage tone print and make it sound great. You have to realize what you're doing here and temper your expectations accordingly.
I bulilt a Tele partscaster a few years ago and I believe I did this quite accidentally.
After I first put it together I wasn't happy with the resonance, so I thought I would simply check the tightness of the screws, so I loosened them and retightened while it was strung up.
Like I said, I was shooting in the dark but since then it is one of my most resonant guitars. A true joy to play.
Sounds like you discovered this excellent tweak by fortunate accident. Probably worth repeating to see if it yields even further improvements!
@@Rockbeareguitars
I am going to try it on my other "bolt on" guitars. I hope I get similar results.
This old wives' tale. I've tried it maybe half a dozen times, never made any discernible difference. Unless the neck's so loose that you can insert objects between it and the body, this is not going to do anything (and even then, the mechanical coupling is where the screws are, far more than where the neck happens to contact the edges of the pocket.)
Prove it with a blind test, or it's just guitar myth no. 452.
Exactly
Obviously not one for you then. Your loss 😁
@@manarasyep
I had the opposite issue with my Squier Classic Vibe. I had owned it for some time and never noticed that it had been fastened far too loosely. It played okay, but once I tightened it the playability shot through the roof.
Brilliant. I am grabbing my screwdriver and heading for the cases!
Mind officially blown. I've been "playing" for 50 years and have never heard of or tried this. I've just massively improved 4 of my guitars including a severely poor neck-joined mid 70s Made in Japan Diamond brand junior double cut. Its worked amazingly well on all of them. Thanks for this info.
A lot of Les Paul's won't intonate since the bridge holes are in the wrong place & there is not enough adjustment in the Tune-o-matic .
The worst I had is 1/8" or ~ 3mm. Plugging the holes & moving the bridge leaves the cosmetics wanting.
I'm contemplating moving the neck.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
brilll thanks
What everyone calls 'bolt-on" neck is a misnomer, if fact they are screw on necks. As stated (and commonly known) they use wood screws to fasten the body and neck. I use machine type threaded bolts, small dia. I install machine screws by imbedding metal inserts (permanently) in the neck. I use a Bridgeport vertical mill for this procedure to assure a precise installation. The bolts are the same length and diameter is a slight few thousandths of and inch larger than the wood screws. Bolts are flat head (not oval head) countersunk, and are Alan head drive and not phillips (which are fairly easy to strip and look ugly). Allen heads you can apply more torque and the machine screw threads do not wear out the wood each time you remove your neck because they screw into the metal inserts, and they look better. I feel this is a far better, more solid true bolt up neck joint, certainly more durable and precise. I wonder why Fender Custom shop doesn't offer this? Likely then they would eventually have to include it on production level guitars?
Here’s the craziest and best tip for stripped out screw holes in wood. Take some course table salt and crush it up till it’s about halfway in size between where you started and normal finely ground table salt. Now using a folded up business card or piece of paper go ahead and fill the stripped screw hole with the crushed salt right up to the top of the hole. Put the screw back in. Presto! Works like a screw now.
If it still won’t grab- add a bit more salt.
It’s the craziest thing ever that it works so well. I’ve done it on everything from strat neck bolt-holes that were stripped, to strap buttons on hollow and semihollow guitars, to vintage. I’ve never had a single issue with doing this. Never seen a finish affected, never seen anything crack or break. It has never failed me.
I had a friend who used to wonder why I would keep a salt shaker in my pedalboard bag. This is why. Anytime I have an issue or see somebody with a stripped screw-hole in wood I’ll show them this trick, and their eyes get huge and they look live they’ve learned the meaning of life lol. It’s a pretty cool trick that has never failed me once. It seems to last forever too. I’ve never had an issue with humidity messing it up, never seen anything leak out, never seen finish get damaged. It’s the craziest easy most useful tip I know for guitar repair lol.
The other best tip is for people with F-hole guitars that have scratchy pots. It’s a giant PITA to try and fish wiring harnesses in and out of F holes just to spray Deoxit into the pots. But the shockingly simple tip is: you don’t have to take the pots out at all. Just take the knob off- thus revealing the pots shaft. You can take the can of Deoxit, and find a couple inch long piece of flexible plastic tubing that’s the right size to fit snugly over the pots shaft. Take the straw off your can of Deoxit and wrap one end several times with a rubber band till there’s a little wad of rubber at one end of the straw that fits snugly and seals decently into the piece of plastic tubing, and stuff it in. Then wrap it in a thin strip of duct tape just to insure that it seals and stays on. Now you’ve got your thin red straw from the deoxit with one end mated to the plastic tubing. Put the straw back on the can of deoxit. Put an old tshirt or rag down to protect the finish- seal the tubing down onto the shaft of the pot and hold it tightly while giving it a little tap of the spray, and if you did it right it will actually pressurize and you’ll see the liquid in the tubing have bubbles coming up thru it. That’s the air from inside the pot. Now twist the pot shaft back and forth thru it’s full sweep several times while making sure not to let the pressure leak out. It works like a charm- no need to even remove the pots. I figured this out one day with my 1966 Coronado II because the original pots were crackly and the signal would cut in and out. This fixed it perfectly, no fishing thru the F-hole required. Most pots have either a little hole at the base of the shaft or a split shaft. This works either way. Crazy…
I would not recommend doing this to a Strat or strat copy. The back of the neck pocket is not very thick wood and where the string tension pulls the neck into this narrow piece of wood, it creates too much tension. I have had 4 used strat bodies that this narrow piece at the back of the neck pocket was either cracked or completely broken loose. As they were used, I can't guarantee that the neck wasn't hit and the wood cracked in this area because it was shoved back with force. But why put extra string tension against this area if it could have been the cause of the breakage. I only set the neck against the back of the pocket enough that it is against it with no string tension and snug the screws lightly. Then I put on the two E strings to check the string distances from the edge of the fretboard. The two E strings do not need to be really tight to check this alignment and the neck can be hand bumped easily to correct the alignment. Then I loosen these strings before I tighten the neck screws. Any guitar body with little wood at the back of the neck pocket could break over time by doing this. The very fact that you can hear the screws making "cracking noises" while doing this should clue you in that you are putting undue stresses against something in the guitar. The screws are designed to hold the neck in place while not allowing the string tension to pull the neck into the back of the pocket. The screws also hold the neck tight enough against the body to provide ample sustain. If you are doing this tweak for that last unobtainable ounce of sustain, then I think you have been sold on a "snake oil" remedy.
This works! I slightly loosened the neck’s 4 bolts; and then I heard the sound of the neck moving into place. I readjusted the tuning and … good to go!
A good simple and effective tip and thanks, but will you guys please stop referring to replaceable neck guitars like Fender etc., as 'bolt on neck guitars'. Do you know the difference between bolt on and screw on. Bolts are bolts and screws are screws. Anyway, just wanted to state the obvious to the many engineers and fitters out there, but a great video none-the-less.
I realize wood dries out, contracts, etc. I'm wondering when trying this and the neck snaps into new place under string pressure if any wood damage occurs upon the screws, or if the screws bend, or are no longer in straight (wood dmg?) |||| ////. Does it work if you loosen string tension, loosen neck screws, tune up and play, then tighten neck?
I don't know if we saw the same person doing this ins a guitar setup but I saw it in one of *PERFECTO DE CASTRO's* videos a couple of years ago.
This is a 50/50 proposition. You can loosen your neck and hear the crack and think it did great and wonderous things and all it does is misalign the strings on your fretboard half the time.
The physical bond between the body and neck is unchanged and any improvement in tone is imaginary and therefore real.
this "great setup tweak" has been going around the internet for years....
Hi Bob,
I’m almost certain you sold me a Washburn Force 3 in 1982 - just up from Charing Cross.
I have a cheap MIM Telly that hung on the wall for a while. When I started back playing it, it sounded strange. So after another 6 months hanging I took it down, loosened the neck screws, and heard a loud click. Now it plays soooo much better and intonates perfectly. Same here, it went dead. I bought it due to the resonance it had in the shop.
Incidentally, this tip is one of the reasons why I don't hang my guitars. I know a lot of people do it, but what I've found is that if a 4-bolt guitar hangs long enough it can pull the heel of the neck away from the body. Just do the adjustment like he says here, and if you hear that click sound it's a good thing. Then tighten up the screws diagonally just like in the video, but store the guitar in a case, on a stand, or lying flat and you'll never have to do the adjustment again.
cylinder head bolts sequence
@@paultraynorbsc627 Yeah, they must have been a bit loose. On my Strat I took the wood screws out and sunk threaded channels in for fine thread bolts. Solid as a rock now. Lesson learned. Maybe some day do the Telly.
Yeah, so dude makes an 11 minute vid about tightening up PH screws with a PZ screwdriver, which are probably stuck to the walls of a body, and do jackshit about actually pulling a neck tightly to the body after the first winter.
Please contact a local repair shop
You say "it hasn't worked on one" do you mean it hasn't NOT worked on one ?🙄
I think he was meaning it hasn't worked on Only one, of all those he's done it to. 😁✌🖖
I've never heard of this before.
Just did it on my Squire Strat then my Squire Tele worked well so I did my Fender Strat and worked a treat also.
Great tip.
Just tried it on three of my strats, and it does make a difference.
Great advice. I would add still to clean dust, filings, paint residue if you remove the neck to make a better resonant contact. If theres a shim, it's usually not a good one. Correct screwdriver helps not damaging the screws (phillips 2 usually).
If you strip the holes you can take the neck off then take a wooden toothpick and some wood glue and push the toothpicks with some glue on them till you fill the hole up and cut off the extra length off wait for the glue to dry. Then the screws will hold tight again.
🥰
Watch for sharp metal poking out of the top of the screw head after you tighten the screws up. The sharp metal from the screw heads will screw up your shirts. I just run a file over the screw heads to knock osharpeners. edges.