You should name this channel the sleepy gunsmith...you sound so sleepy that you almost put me to sleep...anyway, that was some excellent info, i really appreciate it...thanks.
Yeah, I have a definite coffee problem. LOL I recently listened to a doctor talk about how we all have nicotine receptors & nicotine may not be harmful although highly addictive. The problem comes from activating them. He used to smoke all though school. Having quit, he suffers like I do without my coffee. I also have to cater to those of short attention spans that rely more on their cellphones than computers. If I don't reiterate so much, it would be irresponsible considering they'd cut the video to what they'd want to try focusing in on something that would have undesired behavioral offsets outside of the object of discussion at that particular time.
Please take what this video says with a grain of salt. Make your own decisions on whether or not what he says is accurate. All I'll say is that the "2nd link" is a barrel bushing, it does not need ANY chatter at all quite the contrary the tight terms the more accurate as stated by the best 1911 builders in the business, the cant happens by way of the link not bushing, and finally full length guide rods in fact increase ftf occurrences not reduces them. If you arent sure refer to the kuhnhausen manuals. I'm not saying he doesn't know what he's talking about but I couldn't watch past about 2 mins and I already had this list of discrepancies. To each his own tho, maybe I have been misinformed about all these things....but I doubt it.
In my opinion: Relax, what gunsmith manuals will not address is how barrels relax set. On a 1911 the barrel will bend in time & if the barrel bushing is tight both ways, it will barrel spring causing the bushing to pull the barrel forward prematurely. This is why you shouldn't rely on theoretical books written by self made idealistic people who lack trade experience to know the extent of what they think they'd be doing. I will cover this in forgoing videos, you will see the truth of the matter plain as day. It will shake a lot of people, but seeing is believing & wear patterns do not lie. There would be no other way to set the angle inside the bushing with the past & current methods of machining. You might notice how nobody sets the inside bore correctly being when the slide comes out of battery another angle comes into play not addressed by any gunsmith let alone manufacturer. Keep in mind the higher the link, the worse the extractor claw function. This is why so many people have issues with extraction for this design & it gets worse with short barrel compacts. Barrel springing is a big deal & destroys parts. That beloved bushing you'd be talking about is a thin flanged tube that also takes a relaxed set. When set tight by gunsmiths it can cause barrel springing. The recoil spring plunger is not stable enough on its own not to cause impact problems with the plunger cap. It will have to do a video on this when I find another 1911 with this problem. But the only advantage the short rod offers through it's instability is unintentional shock absorption that pre-wears the recoil spring beside the hammering effect of the slide to frame. Recoil spring guide rods do not cause failure to feed unless someone drops the part & damages it causing a dent on a functional surface. A gunsmith is not a legitimate expert & inline with a lot of shade tree mechanics. Belief seeks its own truth & seeing is believing. ~ Have an nice day.
In my opinion: I have another video on slide lock/release issues you might check out if you really want to know everything that happens with this part. Without a groove the part slides around & drags on the slide. They can pop out during shooting too. Some custom shops reduce the length of the pin to prevent that making them counter sunken or flush to the frame. It's a known issue to those who rest their trigger finger out of the ring. In high stress situations the operator can pop the part out of the frame causing a malfunction. Thanks for watching, stay tuned for more. ~ Cheers.
@@opinionsvary My friend, every part of that pistol has a specific name - I would make an effort to learn them - and couple that with basic spelling errors and long-winded ramblings, you would be the last resource I would use to "accurize" any precision instrument of mine. That's my opinion, but you do you! I just caution anybody using your advice to weekend gunsmith their piece and then be "surprised" the next time they try to shoot it.
In my opinion: Yes, that's correct. But it wouldn't explode the gun. Just control the recoil pulse. Many fixed barrel guns do not have lugs & they do not explode because of the slide blow back. The shell of a bullet holds things for a little while to prevent that sort of theriotical explosion so to speak. If you have an unsupported chamber, the shell can explode (rupture).
@@opinionsvary You are right. "Explode" was kind of sort of speak, but it will definitely cause serious issues in gun and may be harmful to the operator. There are many systems to slow down the slide, such as delayed blowback, locked-breech - that can be the "lugs" (1911), or a depression directly on the barrel (glock and most modern pistols), or a piece under the barrel (like Beretta 92, Mauser C96, Walther P-38...), but they all have the same goal, and it's needed to avoid breaking the gun. They only don't exist in small calibers because they don't function in high pressures, like .22LR and .380 ACP. Greetings from Brazil! Adam Kaminski - Gunsmith
@@adamkaminski In my opinion: Well hello, from the USA. High Point's 45 ACPs are a popular pistol being as inexpensive as they are. I don't recall ever seeing any upper locking lugs on those or the 1st run MAC10 submachine guns or the 45ACP Grease Guns the US military used for so long. Yes, some are delayed recoiled, but the 1911 wasn't designed that way. One time in band camp... No, I'm kidding... But I did a 40 Super conversion on a Glock 22 once that ran a necked down 45 shell to 40 caliber. The crazy thing is how much less it recoils running the same 24lb recoil spring. It's not the slide weight that comes into play, but the shell dimensions around the case shoulder that seems to largely delay the blow back. When compared to a 10MM, 40 Super had significantly less blow back energy. I just assumed the 40 Super had a grippy shell in contrast to. But you're right on about those rifle calibers! I forgot to mention how rifle powers tend to have lower burn rates that can cause shells to exit the chamber prematurely when the bullet unseats, thus causing an explosion. So it would need to be locked in. The depression before the barrel chamber just knocks the floating barrel down against the weight of the slide & recoil spring resetting it to the feeding position. It really doesn't lock anything. - Cheers!
What if you get rid of the link and put all your marbles in the magazine so the magazine holds on to the Brass too eliminate the need to tilt the bullet to go into chamber ?NEW sub thanks for all your videos.
In my opinion: Welcome to my channel. I really don't know. Some 1911 prototypes have eliminated the link like the V10 Springfield Ultra Compact. Their 1st run had a link & it had to be aimed from the base of the front sight due to the extreme angle of the battery. It probably would be better not for ultra compacts or compacts to have links. Some 1911 custom shops refuse to work on anything smaller than a Commander size. I'm thinking about covering 1911 magazines in another video being there would be so much myth surrounding them & straight answers are a constant variable. So stay tuned for more. ~ Cheers.
Thanks for the very informative vid! However, you did not address the accurizing level of a collet bushing. How would the accurizing quality of a collet bushing compare to the standard bushing (notwithstanding possible collet finger breaking)? 🤔
In my opinion: I replied to previous commenter if you'd have the time to scroll down the thread, so I'll cut & paste the content for you. ~The collet barrel bushing that uses the spring tabs is completely different & fragile. On this set up a tapered end at the muzzle tightens to remove chatter. They'd run a 2.5 link & had shorter barrel hoods leading to the squared areas at the chamber ends for the lock. If the length of the link is changed, the bushing tabs will break. The link thickness can be fattened to help with accuracy by removing side chatter that is a problem in all 1911s with linked barrels. With a link that has a lot of wiggle it will cause the barrel to vibrate when it hits the frame bed. When this occurs, this can batter the top part of the extractor claw as it cycles. The better looseness would be a little up & down so the feed can be complemented & assisted. A wiggly link can walk a barrel pin out that can then drag on the frame. In retro spect most of them had their bushings replaced with traditional more solid ones because the collet tabs would break. The 9MM full size Colts lasted the longest being they ran 15 lb recoil springs that under load of the feed (empty slide drops ruins 1911 parts) wasn't as bad as it was with 45 ACP. The recoil pulse is way different on the 9MM version & you shouldn't ever use solid recoil guide rods because the little drag of the plug can cause feeding problems on that particular arrangement. Guide rods can help make collet bushings last longer on the larger calibers, not so on the 9MM. The collet design was a gimmick that Colt abandoned because they weren't any better than the original design in the way that the bushing wears the same way inside the slide as the solid design. The collet bushing idea was to overcome the loose slide/ frame chatter while barrel stability was theoretically increased. If the barrel gets pulled forward by the bushing the barrel hood would have to have more clearance than the original design to make it error free. The method I discuss in the video would be about the same in result to a collet, but the rear barrel lock up would be significantly better than a collet. Typically you probably wouldn't notice any accuracy difference considering they are handguns, but the collet system runs looser specs for the barrel hood. When the collet holds the barrel, the chatter around the spring tabs would be about the same. You'd want the bushing to lasso both slide & barrel simultaneously without pulling on the barrel (otherwise you'll get heavy dragging on the bottom lugs & slide stop hammering).
@@opinionsvary Thank you for your very rapid response! I'm just a novice shooter/collector; buying my second Colt 1911 (a N.O.S. G.C. - N.M. Series 70) made in late '70's (?) only a few months ago. It came w/ a solid bushing, but I thought/expected it to have the collet bushing, thinking the collet would make it more accurate. Should I buy & install a collet bushing? BTW, my first Colt is a 1945 1911A1, & it seems to shoot just as well as my new G.C. I'd think the G.C. would be more accurate, but it doesn't seem to be. Hmmmmmm..
@@1628gary In my opinion: I edited some of the pasted content to focus more on your question. A collet bushing works with a tapered end barrel. It probably will cause all sorts of damage if used on the standard barrel. I say this because I once ran a Brily Spherical bushing that supposedly mated the barrel to the slide within .002" & caused all sorts of problems. The bushing ripped off ending my range session leading me to see gimmicks for what they would truly be. As the gun ages the bushing will relax set under spring load. That naturally removes a little slop. On the G.C. if you don't care about collectors value, you could fit a replacement bushings with my blatantly obvious simple technique that nobody else in the entire world could ever have figured out. 🤣 Then replace the link with a fatter one to remove the back end barrel slop (don't mess with the hight though). Oftentimes it's the way the grips feel in the hand that makes you think the gun is inaccurate. Typically a GI model should shoot just as well as a custom at 25 meters. Most people can't shoot well enough to see the difference. ~ Cheers.
In my opinion: Hi there, it's a 70s model. Came with the GI plug & had problems with the plug hitting the short rod end. The rod twisted & jamed the slide so I replaced the GI plug with a full length guide rod & it totally cured it.
@@opinionsvary thanks I have seen a bunch of video on 1911s but not a lot of infomation on problem fixes is true that the springs ware out much faster tell me did you reuse the spring or did replace that to
@@nyghtmyst5118 In my opinion: I tend to abuse my builds with hot loads until I like the wear patterns on the bearing surfaces before backing off, so I changed the twisted 18lb it had with a 20 lb ISMI chrome silicon. Reliability packages often include 18 lb up from the standard 16lb. But I wanted the barrel bed to cradle in along with the slide stop pin clearance. If you don't then the barrel can prematurely wear the link & link pin when the barrel wants to travel further than the linkage will allow. My hot loads send expended shells bouncing all around the shooting lane enough to know metal mainspring housings break pins. That's why it has a Kimber composite flat housing. Also the barrel bushing is an exact fit even to the recoil spring plug making a stronger spring possible. Once everything wears in, I'll go back to a 18lb ISMI chrome silicon & run standard pressure loads. I have a 16 lb ISMI chrome silicon recoil spring that came out of a gun I ran over 3,000 rounds through & ended up still using it in a 9mm project. The spring is shorter in length, but still within specifications. If you want the world's absolute best recoil spring that nobody can ever beat the ISMI chrome silicon is it. They're know to last upto 6,000 rounds unlike everyone else's stuff. The reason they go bad so quickly is because the weight of the slide smacks the frame causing harmonic vibrations under load to a barrel bushing that wiggles in addition. Recoil springs on Government models are supposed to be charged at 1,000 rounds. Commander models might make it to 800 rounds before replacement & Officer models typically might make it to 600 rounds. The slide to metal frame hits causes the spring to shorten & the extreme vibration weakens it. You should expect your spring to last as long as possible with a full length guide system - unlike the GI plug. The GI plug allows the slide to bite down on the dust cover during the feed cycle. Full length rods make everything last longer & overcome one of the most overlooked design flaws - the shallow dust cover.
@@opinionsvary DO THEY SELL KITS TO CONVERT ! Like the full length guide rod spring and cap for the end I have the SR Ruger in full size beautiful fire arm for the price I hear this that and a 1/3 on the model 70 being the better design. I do have Taurus pt 1911 in full size as well but it is a 80 I am told, that to is full size i am a big guy so small guns are cute and big guns are cool to me.. Seem to like the Ruger line have a couple revolvers I got from that company as well the 101 and the 100 both of which are really nice guess i am a bit old school lol
@@nyghtmyst5118 I didn't get notification for this reply, but you'd be pleased to know the Ruger revolver doesn't use side plates. Side plate screws come loose from temperature change along with shooting. When this happens, parts fall out. You'd have to understand the old ways likened them to that of a pocket watches with all sorts of mortise lock, lever & radial gear movements. Ruger was a tool company & went a different direction. Back in the day, I had a 2" SP101 357 spurless. Even though it was heavy, it was comfortable to body movement inside & outside the waistband. If they were to keep the same weight & offer a 4" classic pencil barrel, it would be probably be my favorite all around carry firearm. If they'd do a 40 S&W caliber with a detent extractor that would be a dream come true. I often miss shooting it & regret trading it in for something I don't remember.
So when the barrell bushing is of a spring support type keeping a tight fit of bushing and barrell all the time, most of the worries here go away? Also a loose barrel link pin fitting is nothing to worry about according to a gun smith expert here, and in 30+ years never caused a problem, so where does that leave us with regards of accurizing the 1911? Accuracy of slide fitting the frame rails is not at all mentioned here so why do manufacturers make so tight fit in that regard, like Kimber, and not so good fit in Colts?
In my opinion: The collet barrel bushing that uses the spring tabs is completely different & fragile. On this set up a tapered end at the muzzle tightens to remove chatter. They'd run a 2.5 link & had shorter barrel hoods for unknown reasons leading to the squared areas at the chamber ends for the lock. If the length of the link is changed, the bushing tabs will break. The link thickness can be fattened to help with accuracy by removing side chatter that is a problem in all 1911s with linked barrels. With a link that has a lot of wiggle it will cause the barrel to vibrate when it hits the frame bed. When this occurs, this can batter the top part of the extractor claw as it cycles. The better looseness would be a little up & down so the feed can be complemented & assisted. A wiggly link can walk a barrel pin out that can then drag on the frame. In retro spect most of them had their bushings replaced with traditional more solid ones because the collet tabs would break. The 9MM full size Colts lasted the longest being they ran 15 lb recoil springs that under load of the feed (empty slide drops ruins 1911 parts) wasn't as bad as it was with 45 ACP. The recoil pulse is way different on the 9MM version & you shouldn't ever use solid recoil guide rods because the little drag of the plug can cause feeding problems on that particular arrangement. Solid recoil guide rods do smooth the feed & battery in larger calibers. Kimber hit the market with its Custom Classic running a 16lb recoil spring & full length guide rod. I had one & it wasn't reliable at all unless you were using hard ball ammunition. None of the performance magazines worked well enough to over come this reality. COAL matters with 1911s for reliability as bullet set back usually occurs the way this design feeds. Guide rods can help make collet bushings last longer on the larger calibers, not so on the 9MM. Slide chatter isn't a big deal. I fitted one once & lapped it until it would slip off of it's own gravity. I put over 3,000 rounds of hot loads trying to break it in inorder to establish the natural wear patterns bringing it to the sweet spot to where everything is exactly as it will be at its finest. Then I laser bore sighted the sights into alignment after allowing the barrel to naturally relax set to the right as most 1911s do. The slide actually wore to chatter making tight fitment a total waste of time. Slides will relax set along with the barrels. They tend to contort to a "C" shape the more the ejection port is opened. This is not an ideal situation. You see it more on old Glocks than GI model 1911s. At some point I will cover how the internal 1911 extractor & ejector actually work making extended ejection ports a terrible idea (the market trends in the 1990s gravitated towards trying to emulate Beretta's more reliable "open slide ejection system"). During this era of thought 32 ACP C- Camp pistols & Walther PPK type small arms were preferable for concealed carry for those who hated the snub nose revolvers. Extended ejectors are another terrible idea some gunsmith hot rodder came up with & it created a world of problems messing with the OEM design. Back in the 1970s the 1911 was a terrible thing nobody wanted as a duty weapon so the gun magazines made them hot rods. Kings, Cylinder&Slide, Clark, Millet & Wilson would offer gunsmith fit parts touting better performance in line with revolvers. They tried for higher adjustable sights - like revolvers - on pistols that hardly ever had them being more suitable for combat. They thought tighter was better & preferred less barrel movement. Turns out they're as wrong as the weaver shooting stance of those times. They erroneously though a "bladed stance" was the best, but that stance is no longer taught at the professional level being hard to index with & opening up the arm pit to present the most vital area to ever get hit at next to the head. Yeah, it was incredibly dumb. Most 1911 smithing is all idealistic market gimmick. They'll recommend a tight barrel without telling you about barrel springing or lug drag issues. They'd talk about the "long link" idea without telling you it wears the slide & breaks extractors. Hopes this helps, tell me what you think about it. It's a lot to take in. Best regards.
@@opinionsvary Thanks for the answer! Honestly some of the things mentioned here I cannot do much about, like fit of barrel to slide. As the front bushing collet type is very tight and nice accuracy improvement in my Colt Combat Elite (Series 80 modified to 70) maybe could be found at the rear of the barrel. The gunsmith here suggested a bigger program, but I declined wanting to keep the Colt original. It has 3lbs trigger but I wanted Kimber Super Match feel. Then the whole trigger assembly had to be changed he said :) Anyway, the problem which emerged after some use is that slide catch releases when loaded Kimber magazine is inserted. Also it has developed a tendency of not feeding Fiocchi 230gr.FMJ ammo. Quite frustrating in a shooting match! The smith would file the profile of the slide catch and accurize the feeding and feed ramp. The slide is slightly binding at a portion of the frame, but he said if he opened it up the accuracy would be considerably worse. So we let it be! :) Any opinion on those considerations?Thanks for your attention!
@@gabork.8715 In my opinion: I don't know why he'd be filing any functional profile on a slide release. Without seeing your gun, I'd say the catch may not be fully up in the slide notch or catching on the take down groove before it. If the mag spring is tired, you may not get the full lock back proformance. I would use PSI ACT mags that have more reliable supported followers. The nose dip of the traditional style mag can cause problems when the spring sets & tires. The mag depicted in my video is my own fancy build. It uses a ACT mag follower & spring. The mag tube has the correct feed lip angle & a removable base plate. I wouldn't use any other mag. Pay attention to the feed lips being many tend to come malformed. The fire control group (FCG) on a 1911 can be improved simply by changing the main spring to a lighter one, preferably made of chrome silicon - like an ISMI. Colt OEM runs a 24lb main spring. Going for an 11lb or 8lb will significantly reduce the pull. Cylinder&Slide sear springs would also feel better than the more solid Colt OEM. DO NOT MESS WITH THE SEAR ANGLE!!! Because it's not necessary. Ordinary the sear will bite into the hammer hooks & iron out all the gritty feel. You could put Power Customs sear shims on either side of the OEM sear & remove the sear drag on the frame. Colt is generous with the sear slot unlike other manufacturers that make this area too tight. You could change all the parts yourself without having to file, grind or modify anything. This should make your FCG incredibly awesome. The case over length of a bullet can mess with feed. 1.215" - 1.220" (tapered flat tip); 1.230" - 1.265" (Full Metal Jacket) runs pretty good in my 1911s. But it varies with manufacturers & the batch. If the egg shaped ball ammo doesn't feed its length may be too long for the optimal feed cycle. Get yourself a micrometer & spec the case over all length (COAL) to make sure it'll be within the sweet spot to run correctly. That long stuff may run in a different non 1911 gun that doesn't cam load like the 1911. The frame feed ramp should launch a round to the mid portion of the barrel's ramp. You can advance the cycle rate by changing profiles, but I would not recommend it. The bullet pushes against the top of the chamber & cams on the barrel's feed ramp edge. The secret is the barrel's feed ramp, not the one on the frame. That's exactly why throating involved using a fixture to help chop the feed ramp down to a steeper angle for hollow points. It "magically" allowed less drag on the cartridge to where it cams up. I would not mess with any of that. The "U" bearing surface of the feed ramp has to be the correct shape in order not to increase the cam up pressure & retard the feed. The tight spot on the frame isn't a big deal if the slide moves of its own gravity without stopping short. The top rail is where all the magic happens. The bottom track isn't the bearing surface like the top. As you continue to practice with it, it will wear in like a new pair of shoes. The frame will contort over time & relax set. The difference in sectional density will causes this. That's why you should always practice when ever you can inorder to keep things running in their sweet spot. Cop & security guard guns contort really bad from temperature extremes whereas guns that stay in stable climate not as much. You might try Flitz on the rails to slick it up. Or you could use automotive rubbing compound for a few back & forths until satisfied (make sure you clean it out good). Do not use lapping compound because it won't all clean out & continue to work down the parts in bad ways. ~ Best regards.
@@opinionsvary Thanks for your answer! I really refrain to file anywhere on that Colt not to make things worse and hopefully the gunsmith found the right places to adjust. The magazine I used was a quality Kimber 8 shot magazine which has a feed lip quite different from the orginal Colt which actually looks cheap, with a step in the feed lip. The Kimber feed lip looks akin to modern magazines like on the Beretta 92F, no step at all. Anyway I cant understand why the slide would go forward by itself when inserting the magazine; not a problem before, but developed lately. Maybe the gunsmith found out of that!
@@gabork.8715 In my opinion: I probably should do more videos on this 1911 stuff being the amount of views it brings. I have a talent for costing shop owners high end sales. I noticed quite a few channels trying to save their reputation seeing the challenge to their market trends. It's a darn fine design, we shouldn't be having all these issues that's mainly their fault.
In my opinion: The tollerances are needed in order that the slide stop works .002" minimum would be needed to function reliably & the bottom barrel lugs have to get off the slide stop pin right after battery. If you didn't need the magazine to lock back after last round, it wouldn't matter as much, but it will roll back & forth like a switch slam-hammerering the frame notch & slow the slide down a bit prior to battery (not supposed to work this way). Gun powder is quite a slide stopper without some wiggle room. Often times it can be worse than dirt. It's not so much the heat expansion that the tollerances are there, it would be because of the effects of gun powder. If the barrel exterior gets gunky with the slide back the bushing can prematurely pull the barrel forward causing the top hood lugs to wear on the slide grooves. This would be inline with what's regarded as "barrel springing" to parts fitters. It has to wiggle to continue to run. Pistol shells often times do not come crimped. Pellet powder tends to be the worst gun clogger when a case crimp isn't used to help burn thoroughly. You typically won't know what type of powder granulation you'd have unless you loaded the shell yourself. A lot of people would argue about it, but cheap non Russian made ammo tends to use pellet powders.
Well for one, barrel fitting, and timing is much more than the hood and links, one of the most important aspects is fitting of lower lugs on a real match grade barrel, and the tooling required to do so, chatter? Ummm nope, not needed, the angle bore and thick egw bushing can increase accuracy a bunch when properly fitted. When it “ chatters” it needs to be replaced. Claiming any # link pin to anyone is bad information, that’s not how fitting a barrel and timing works. Other comments about full length guide rods, or 20 years of gunsmithing, to file a simple groove in a slide stop is really not impressive. Need more? I can go on. I recommend you keep learning about this well over 100 year old design, books and knowledge abound on this gun. Btw… I sure would like to know who is it that makes a cut rifled 1911 barrel? That is a rhetorical question !
@@chippsterstephens6800 Thank you, i didn't feel like typing out an explanation that i know would not have been nearly as good as yours. So again i say thank you.
Horrible advice here. Start with a Jerry Kuhnhausen book or two, read up on true match grade gunsmith fit barrels, and bushings. From the army marksmanship units at camp parry to modern custom 1911 builders like Les Baer , Alchemy , Cabot…all very tight guns, and very accurate. Search for Steve of Allentown online, he is very knowledgeable with the 1911. This advice is bad, the gun shown is sloppy loose. As expected of a rock island. But even I rock can be made accurate, I have one. It has zero “chatter”!
In my opinion: So what's your idea of "match grade"? A cigarette lighter 1911 from the gift store? Like 6" @ 25 yards would be so terrible when most shooters struggle at 10 yards all day long at the ranges. Would you be one of those guys who gets excited to seeing shooting done at extremely close distances passed off for great distances on TH-cam through a cheap camera lens? I would hope not. I'd have to admit the last Ed Brown I picked up at a store really didn't impress me with the barrel crown deburred with a common machine shop tool used to scrape off edges. Pretty sure that wouldn't pass the industry standard for gun manufacturing. It would have to be recrowned right at the get go. Just can't take anyone seriously name dropping self proclaimed market hypers. All those fancy Nancys in your comment all jam something terrible & probably have a looser barrel hood & bushing fit. It's not that all that complicated. If it's not reliable, it's not all that accurate. If it doesn't go bang, it ain't no thang. ~ 🙃
In my opinion: It's supposed to be loose tolerance technology. Like an old yard Master Lock on a fence gate - it's what they were trying for back then. The idea was to make things loose & tight to where it counts the most like a fence chain back then. The barrel hood & bushing tends to bring the 6" group @ 25 yards with the one handed shooting that was the specification for combat back then. This gun probably groups a little better than a Rock Island with my custom barrel fitting. The load bearing is estimated to be around 5 foot pounds of torque during shooting. The slide up & down wiggle effects the shot group where as the side to side doesn't matter as much so long as the barrel hood locks close to the slide. I try for .002" clearance on either side. The link set up is supposed to giddy up the barrel into battery. It's important to understand this before trying to fit a bushing. The link holes will oval over time as the barrel will hammer the vertical impact surface to reset the feed. So you fit the hood 1st, then the bushing with it pulled up to the max upward travel the barrel can lock up to. Then you chose the link otherwise the bushing will strum the barrel into battery making alignment problems with the recoil groves in the slide (that's what they are). The vertical stringing is caused by a sloppy barrel link. The shot pattern will look like the bottom of a smiley face until a thicker link is installed. The group size is caused by the barrel to bushing fit along with the Barrel's hood to slide fitment. Skipping the hood fitment & going for a tighter bushing causes "barrel springing" & works the slide stop to barrel lug area. It causes the switch lever to slam back & forth in the slot (not good). It has to giddy up not press down under load. The barrel can only lock up as high as a chambered round will allow. Chopping the feed ramp was how it was done with a longer link back then before we knew better. So don't plan on using the tallest link that will give the tightest lock up because the feed ramp may actually bind on the chambering shell case. This is one of the most common issues with people building custom guns. This makes the gun unreliable & works the extractor claw almost as bad as the wrong ejector profile. It's also the reason the feed ramp must be radial used & not a chop taper. The upper bullet slides under load against the feed ramp during the clambering of a round. This is exactly why the link has to giddy up into battery rather than be rolled up into battery under a tight tolerance loaded system. That why it has to be loose.
Probably be a good idea to gain knowledge first, and not just have a bad opinion. It’s so easy to learn how to properly fit a true match grade barrel. It’s been done for years. It’s well documented, accuracy proven, over many years, not just some guy’s thoughts who owns a loose rock island 1911. And cut a groove in the slide stop…lol
In my opinion: Often times when giving instructions to unfamiliar audiences repeating ideas to further them along so audiences might process them constructively in the correct context is necessary with many diverse people. Looks like you're having trouble concentrating. I can repeat it again if you like. There's really no audience for you here.
You should name this channel the sleepy gunsmith...you sound so sleepy that you almost put me to sleep...anyway, that was some excellent info, i really appreciate it...thanks.
Yeah, I have a definite coffee problem. LOL
I recently listened to a doctor talk about how we all have nicotine receptors & nicotine may not be harmful although highly addictive. The problem comes from activating them. He used to smoke all though school. Having quit, he suffers like I do without my coffee. I also have to cater to those of short attention spans that rely more on their cellphones than computers. If I don't reiterate so much, it would be irresponsible considering they'd cut the video to what they'd want to try focusing in on something that would have undesired behavioral offsets outside of the object of discussion at that particular time.
Honestly I'm glad I looked at this, the slide stop Grove was something I did not know about, I learned something today
In my opinion: I'm glad. ~ Cheers.
Please take what this video says with a grain of salt. Make your own decisions on whether or not what he says is accurate. All I'll say is that the "2nd link" is a barrel bushing, it does not need ANY chatter at all quite the contrary the tight terms the more accurate as stated by the best 1911 builders in the business, the cant happens by way of the link not bushing, and finally full length guide rods in fact increase ftf occurrences not reduces them. If you arent sure refer to the kuhnhausen manuals. I'm not saying he doesn't know what he's talking about but I couldn't watch past about 2 mins and I already had this list of discrepancies. To each his own tho, maybe I have been misinformed about all these things....but I doubt it.
In my opinion: Relax, what gunsmith manuals will not address is how barrels relax set. On a 1911 the barrel will bend in time & if the barrel bushing is tight both ways, it will barrel spring causing the bushing to pull the barrel forward prematurely. This is why you shouldn't rely on theoretical books written by self made idealistic people who lack trade experience to know the extent of what they think they'd be doing. I will cover this in forgoing videos, you will see the truth of the matter plain as day. It will shake a lot of people, but seeing is believing & wear patterns do not lie.
There would be no other way to set the angle inside the bushing with the past & current methods of machining. You might notice how nobody sets the inside bore correctly being when the slide comes out of battery another angle comes into play not addressed by any gunsmith let alone manufacturer. Keep in mind the higher the link, the worse the extractor claw function. This is why so many people have issues with extraction for this design & it gets worse with short barrel compacts.
Barrel springing is a big deal & destroys parts. That beloved bushing you'd be talking about is a thin flanged tube that also takes a relaxed set. When set tight by gunsmiths it can cause barrel springing.
The recoil spring plunger is not stable enough on its own not to cause impact problems with the plunger cap. It will have to do a video on this when I find another 1911 with this problem. But the only advantage the short rod offers through it's instability is unintentional shock absorption that pre-wears the recoil spring beside the hammering effect of the slide to frame. Recoil spring guide rods do not cause failure to feed unless someone drops the part & damages it causing a dent on a functional surface.
A gunsmith is not a legitimate expert & inline with a lot of shade tree mechanics. Belief seeks its own truth & seeing is believing.
~ Have an nice day.
You can just push the slide lock pin from the other side of the gun and then it pops it up enough to grab. No need to grind a groove in it.
In my opinion: I have another video on slide lock/release issues you might check out if you really want to know everything that happens with this part.
Without a groove the part slides around & drags on the slide. They can pop out during shooting too. Some custom shops reduce the length of the pin to prevent that making them counter sunken or flush to the frame. It's a known issue to those who rest their trigger finger out of the ring. In high stress situations the operator can pop the part out of the frame causing a malfunction.
Thanks for watching, stay tuned for more.
~ Cheers.
Omg...get to it
YES! Lol! 😂
Label your video "DIY", then I'll take you seriously... and my God man, use correct terminology and get to the point
@@opinionsvary My friend, every part of that pistol has a specific name - I would make an effort to learn them - and couple that with basic spelling errors and long-winded ramblings, you would be the last resource I would use to "accurize" any precision instrument of mine. That's my opinion, but you do you!
I just caution anybody using your advice to weekend gunsmith their piece and then be "surprised" the next time they try to shoot it.
@@bobbyhouston5058In my opinion: So is there a meaningful point you wanted to make?
You are amazing!!
Those "lugs" are for slow down the blowback, because of high pressure ammo, so it doesn't explode your gun and your hands.
In my opinion: Yes, that's correct. But it wouldn't explode the gun. Just control the recoil pulse. Many fixed barrel guns do not have lugs & they do not explode because of the slide blow back. The shell of a bullet holds things for a little while to prevent that sort of theriotical explosion so to speak. If you have an unsupported chamber, the shell can explode (rupture).
@@opinionsvary You are right. "Explode" was kind of sort of speak, but it will definitely cause serious issues in gun and may be harmful to the operator. There are many systems to slow down the slide, such as delayed blowback, locked-breech - that can be the "lugs" (1911), or a depression directly on the barrel (glock and most modern pistols), or a piece under the barrel (like Beretta 92, Mauser C96, Walther P-38...), but they all have the same goal, and it's needed to avoid breaking the gun. They only don't exist in small calibers because they don't function in high pressures, like .22LR and .380 ACP.
Greetings from Brazil!
Adam Kaminski - Gunsmith
@@adamkaminski In my opinion: Well hello, from the USA.
High Point's 45 ACPs are a popular pistol being as inexpensive as they are. I don't recall ever seeing any upper locking lugs on those or the 1st run MAC10 submachine guns or the 45ACP Grease Guns the US military used for so long.
Yes, some are delayed recoiled, but the 1911 wasn't designed that way. One time in band camp... No, I'm kidding... But I did a 40 Super conversion on a Glock 22 once that ran a necked down 45 shell to 40 caliber. The crazy thing is how much less it recoils running the same 24lb recoil spring. It's not the slide weight that comes into play, but the shell dimensions around the case shoulder that seems to largely delay the blow back. When compared to a 10MM, 40 Super had significantly less blow back energy. I just assumed the 40 Super had a grippy shell in contrast to. But you're right on about those rifle calibers!
I forgot to mention how rifle powers tend to have lower burn rates that can cause shells to exit the chamber prematurely when the bullet unseats, thus causing an explosion. So it would need to be locked in.
The depression before the barrel chamber just knocks the floating barrel down against the weight of the slide & recoil spring resetting it to the feeding position. It really doesn't lock anything.
- Cheers!
What if you get rid of the link and put all your marbles in the magazine so the magazine holds on to the Brass too eliminate the need to tilt the bullet to go into chamber ?NEW sub thanks for all your videos.
In my opinion: Welcome to my channel.
I really don't know.
Some 1911 prototypes have eliminated the link like the V10 Springfield Ultra Compact. Their 1st run had a link & it had to be aimed from the base of the front sight due to the extreme angle of the battery. It probably would be better not for ultra compacts or compacts to have links. Some 1911 custom shops refuse to work on anything smaller than a Commander size.
I'm thinking about covering 1911 magazines in another video being there would be so much myth surrounding them & straight answers are a constant variable. So stay tuned for more.
~ Cheers.
Thanks for the very informative vid! However, you did not address the accurizing level of a collet bushing. How would the accurizing quality of a collet bushing compare to the standard bushing (notwithstanding possible collet finger breaking)? 🤔
In my opinion: I replied to previous commenter if you'd have the time to scroll down the thread, so I'll cut & paste the content for you.
~The collet barrel bushing that uses the spring tabs is completely different & fragile. On this set up a tapered end at the muzzle tightens to remove chatter. They'd run a 2.5 link & had shorter barrel hoods leading to the squared areas at the chamber ends for the lock. If the length of the link is changed, the bushing tabs will break. The link thickness can be fattened to help with accuracy by removing side chatter that is a problem in all 1911s with linked barrels. With a link that has a lot of wiggle it will cause the barrel to vibrate when it hits the frame bed. When this occurs, this can batter the top part of the extractor claw as it cycles. The better looseness would be a little up & down so the feed can be complemented & assisted. A wiggly link can walk a barrel pin out that can then drag on the frame. In retro spect most of them had their bushings replaced with traditional more solid ones because the collet tabs would break. The 9MM full size Colts lasted the longest being they ran 15 lb recoil springs that under load of the feed (empty slide drops ruins 1911 parts) wasn't as bad as it was with 45 ACP. The recoil pulse is way different on the 9MM version & you shouldn't ever use solid recoil guide rods because the little drag of the plug can cause feeding problems on that particular arrangement.
Guide rods can help make collet bushings last longer on the larger calibers, not so on the 9MM.
The collet design was a gimmick that Colt abandoned because they weren't any better than the original design in the way that the bushing wears the same way inside the slide as the solid design. The collet bushing idea was to overcome the loose slide/ frame chatter while barrel stability was theoretically increased. If the barrel gets pulled forward by the bushing the barrel hood would have to have more clearance than the original design to make it error free. The method I discuss in the video would be about the same in result to a collet, but the rear barrel lock up would be significantly better than a collet. Typically you probably wouldn't notice any accuracy difference considering they are handguns, but the collet system runs looser specs for the barrel hood.
When the collet holds the barrel, the chatter around the spring tabs would be about the same. You'd want the bushing to lasso both slide & barrel simultaneously without pulling on the barrel (otherwise you'll get heavy dragging on the bottom lugs & slide stop hammering).
@@opinionsvary Thank you for your very rapid response! I'm just a novice shooter/collector; buying my second Colt 1911 (a N.O.S. G.C. - N.M. Series 70) made in late '70's (?) only a few months ago. It came w/ a solid bushing, but I thought/expected it to have the collet bushing, thinking the collet would make it more accurate. Should I buy & install a collet bushing? BTW, my first Colt is a 1945 1911A1, & it seems to shoot just as well as my new G.C. I'd think the G.C. would be more accurate, but it doesn't seem to be. Hmmmmmm..
@@1628gary In my opinion: I edited some of the pasted content to focus more on your question.
A collet bushing works with a tapered end barrel. It probably will cause all sorts of damage if used on the standard barrel. I say this because I once ran a Brily Spherical bushing that supposedly mated the barrel to the slide within .002" & caused all sorts of problems. The bushing ripped off ending my range session leading me to see gimmicks for what they would truly be.
As the gun ages the bushing will relax set under spring load. That naturally removes a little slop.
On the G.C. if you don't care about collectors value, you could fit a replacement bushings with my blatantly obvious simple technique that nobody else in the entire world could ever have figured out. 🤣 Then replace the link with a fatter one to remove the back end barrel slop (don't mess with the hight though).
Oftentimes it's the way the grips feel in the hand that makes you think the gun is inaccurate. Typically a GI model should shoot just as well as a custom at 25 meters. Most people can't shoot well enough to see the difference.
~ Cheers.
Did you drink Nyquil before you made this video?
Probably. 🤪
Did you replace yours to full guide rod is that 70 type model or an 80
In my opinion: Hi there, it's a 70s model. Came with the GI plug & had problems with the plug hitting the short rod end. The rod twisted & jamed the slide so I replaced the GI plug with a full length guide rod & it totally cured it.
@@opinionsvary thanks I have seen a bunch of video on 1911s but not a lot of infomation on problem fixes is true that the springs ware out much faster tell me did you reuse the spring or did replace that to
@@nyghtmyst5118 In my opinion: I tend to abuse my builds with hot loads until I like the wear patterns on the bearing surfaces before backing off, so I changed the twisted 18lb it had with a 20 lb ISMI chrome silicon.
Reliability packages often include 18 lb up from the standard 16lb. But I wanted the barrel bed to cradle in along with the slide stop pin clearance. If you don't then the barrel can prematurely wear the link & link pin when the barrel wants to travel further than the linkage will allow. My hot loads send expended shells bouncing all around the shooting lane enough to know metal mainspring housings break pins. That's why it has a Kimber composite flat housing.
Also the barrel bushing is an exact fit even to the recoil spring plug making a stronger spring possible. Once everything wears in, I'll go back to a 18lb ISMI chrome silicon & run standard pressure loads.
I have a 16 lb ISMI chrome silicon recoil spring that came out of a gun I ran over 3,000 rounds through & ended up still using it in a 9mm project. The spring is shorter in length, but still within specifications. If you want the world's absolute best recoil spring that nobody can ever beat the ISMI chrome silicon is it. They're know to last upto 6,000 rounds unlike everyone else's stuff. The reason they go bad so quickly is because the weight of the slide smacks the frame causing harmonic vibrations under load to a barrel bushing that wiggles in addition. Recoil springs on Government models are supposed to be charged at 1,000 rounds. Commander models might make it to 800 rounds before replacement & Officer models typically might make it to 600 rounds. The slide to metal frame hits causes the spring to shorten & the extreme vibration weakens it. You should expect your spring to last as long as possible with a full length guide system - unlike the GI plug. The GI plug allows the slide to bite down on the dust cover during the feed cycle. Full length rods make everything last longer & overcome one of the most overlooked design flaws - the shallow dust cover.
@@opinionsvary DO THEY SELL KITS TO CONVERT ! Like the full length guide rod spring and cap for the end I have the SR Ruger in full size beautiful fire arm for the price I hear this that and a 1/3 on the model 70 being the better design. I do have Taurus pt 1911 in full size as well but it is a 80 I am told, that to is full size i am a big guy so small guns are cute and big guns are cool to me.. Seem to like the Ruger line have a couple revolvers I got from that company as well the 101 and the 100 both of which are really nice guess i am a bit old school lol
@@nyghtmyst5118 I didn't get notification for this reply, but you'd be pleased to know the Ruger revolver doesn't use side plates. Side plate screws come loose from temperature change along with shooting. When this happens, parts fall out. You'd have to understand the old ways likened them to that of a pocket watches with all sorts of mortise lock, lever & radial gear movements. Ruger was a tool company & went a different direction.
Back in the day, I had a 2" SP101 357 spurless. Even though it was heavy, it was comfortable to body movement inside & outside the waistband. If they were to keep the same weight & offer a 4" classic pencil barrel, it would be probably be my favorite all around carry firearm. If they'd do a 40 S&W caliber with a detent extractor that would be a dream come true. I often miss shooting it & regret trading it in for something I don't remember.
So when the barrell bushing is of a spring support type keeping a tight fit of bushing and barrell all the time, most of the worries here go away? Also a loose barrel link pin fitting is nothing to worry about according to a gun smith expert here, and in 30+ years never caused a problem, so where does that leave us with regards of accurizing the 1911? Accuracy of slide fitting the frame rails is not at all mentioned here so why do manufacturers make so tight fit in that regard, like Kimber, and not so good fit in Colts?
In my opinion: The collet barrel bushing that uses the spring tabs is completely different & fragile. On this set up a tapered end at the muzzle tightens to remove chatter. They'd run a 2.5 link & had shorter barrel hoods for unknown reasons leading to the squared areas at the chamber ends for the lock. If the length of the link is changed, the bushing tabs will break. The link thickness can be fattened to help with accuracy by removing side chatter that is a problem in all 1911s with linked barrels. With a link that has a lot of wiggle it will cause the barrel to vibrate when it hits the frame bed. When this occurs, this can batter the top part of the extractor claw as it cycles. The better looseness would be a little up & down so the feed can be complemented & assisted. A wiggly link can walk a barrel pin out that can then drag on the frame. In retro spect most of them had their bushings replaced with traditional more solid ones because the collet tabs would break. The 9MM full size Colts lasted the longest being they ran 15 lb recoil springs that under load of the feed (empty slide drops ruins 1911 parts) wasn't as bad as it was with 45 ACP. The recoil pulse is way different on the 9MM version & you shouldn't ever use solid recoil guide rods because the little drag of the plug can cause feeding problems on that particular arrangement.
Solid recoil guide rods do smooth the feed & battery in larger calibers.
Kimber hit the market with its Custom Classic running a 16lb recoil spring & full length guide rod. I had one & it wasn't reliable at all unless you were using hard ball ammunition. None of the performance magazines worked well enough to over come this reality.
COAL matters with 1911s for reliability as bullet set back usually occurs the way this design feeds.
Guide rods can help make collet bushings last longer on the larger calibers, not so on the 9MM.
Slide chatter isn't a big deal. I fitted one once & lapped it until it would slip off of it's own gravity. I put over 3,000 rounds of hot loads trying to break it in inorder to establish the natural wear patterns bringing it to the sweet spot to where everything is exactly as it will be at its finest. Then I laser bore sighted the sights into alignment after allowing the barrel to naturally relax set to the right as most 1911s do. The slide actually wore to chatter making tight fitment a total waste of time. Slides will relax set along with the barrels. They tend to contort to a "C" shape the more the ejection port is opened. This is not an ideal situation. You see it more on old Glocks than GI model 1911s. At some point I will cover how the internal 1911 extractor & ejector actually work making extended ejection ports a terrible idea (the market trends in the 1990s gravitated towards trying to emulate Beretta's more reliable "open slide ejection system"). During this era of thought 32 ACP C- Camp pistols & Walther PPK type small arms were preferable for concealed carry for those who hated the snub nose revolvers.
Extended ejectors are another terrible idea some gunsmith hot rodder came up with & it created a world of problems messing with the OEM design.
Back in the 1970s the 1911 was a terrible thing nobody wanted as a duty weapon so the gun magazines made them hot rods. Kings, Cylinder&Slide, Clark, Millet & Wilson would offer gunsmith fit parts touting better performance in line with revolvers. They tried for higher adjustable sights - like revolvers - on pistols that hardly ever had them being more suitable for combat. They thought tighter was better & preferred less barrel movement. Turns out they're as wrong as the weaver shooting stance of those times. They erroneously though a "bladed stance" was the best, but that stance is no longer taught at the professional level being hard to index with & opening up the arm pit to present the most vital area to ever get hit at next to the head. Yeah, it was incredibly dumb. Most 1911 smithing is all idealistic market gimmick. They'll recommend a tight barrel without telling you about barrel springing or lug drag issues. They'd talk about the "long link" idea without telling you it wears the slide & breaks extractors.
Hopes this helps, tell me what you think about it. It's a lot to take in.
Best regards.
@@opinionsvary Thanks for the answer! Honestly some of the things mentioned here I cannot do much about, like fit of barrel to slide. As the front bushing collet type is very tight and nice accuracy improvement in my Colt Combat Elite (Series 80 modified to 70) maybe could be found at the rear of the barrel. The gunsmith here suggested a bigger program, but I declined wanting to keep the Colt original. It has 3lbs trigger but I wanted Kimber Super Match feel. Then the whole trigger assembly had to be changed he said :) Anyway, the problem which emerged after some use is that slide catch releases when loaded Kimber magazine is inserted. Also it has developed a tendency of not feeding Fiocchi 230gr.FMJ ammo. Quite frustrating in a shooting match! The smith would file the profile of the slide catch and accurize the feeding and feed ramp. The slide is slightly binding at a portion of the frame, but he said if he opened it up the accuracy would be considerably worse. So we let it be! :) Any opinion on those considerations?Thanks for your attention!
@@gabork.8715 In my opinion: I don't know why he'd be filing any functional profile on a slide release. Without seeing your gun, I'd say the catch may not be fully up in the slide notch or catching on the take down groove before it. If the mag spring is tired, you may not get the full lock back proformance. I would use PSI ACT mags that have more reliable supported followers. The nose dip of the traditional style mag can cause problems when the spring sets & tires. The mag depicted in my video is my own fancy build. It uses a ACT mag follower & spring. The mag tube has the correct feed lip angle & a removable base plate. I wouldn't use any other mag. Pay attention to the feed lips being many tend to come malformed.
The fire control group (FCG) on a 1911 can be improved simply by changing the main spring to a lighter one, preferably made of chrome silicon - like an ISMI. Colt OEM runs a 24lb main spring. Going for an 11lb or 8lb will significantly reduce the pull. Cylinder&Slide sear springs would also feel better than the more solid Colt OEM. DO NOT MESS WITH THE SEAR ANGLE!!! Because it's not necessary. Ordinary the sear will bite into the hammer hooks & iron out all the gritty feel. You could put Power Customs sear shims on either side of the OEM sear & remove the sear drag on the frame. Colt is generous with the sear slot unlike other manufacturers that make this area too tight. You could change all the parts yourself without having to file, grind or modify anything. This should make your FCG incredibly awesome.
The case over length of a bullet can mess with feed. 1.215" - 1.220" (tapered flat tip); 1.230" - 1.265" (Full Metal Jacket) runs pretty good in my 1911s. But it varies with manufacturers & the batch. If the egg shaped ball ammo doesn't feed its length may be too long for the optimal feed cycle. Get yourself a micrometer & spec the case over all length (COAL) to make sure it'll be within the sweet spot to run correctly. That long stuff may run in a different non 1911 gun that doesn't cam load like the 1911.
The frame feed ramp should launch a round to the mid portion of the barrel's ramp. You can advance the cycle rate by changing profiles, but I would not recommend it. The bullet pushes against the top of the chamber & cams on the barrel's feed ramp edge. The secret is the barrel's feed ramp, not the one on the frame. That's exactly why throating involved using a fixture to help chop the feed ramp down to a steeper angle for hollow points. It "magically" allowed less drag on the cartridge to where it cams up. I would not mess with any of that. The "U" bearing surface of the feed ramp has to be the correct shape in order not to increase the cam up pressure & retard the feed.
The tight spot on the frame isn't a big deal if the slide moves of its own gravity without stopping short. The top rail is where all the magic happens. The bottom track isn't the bearing surface like the top. As you continue to practice with it, it will wear in like a new pair of shoes. The frame will contort over time & relax set. The difference in sectional density will causes this. That's why you should always practice when ever you can inorder to keep things running in their sweet spot. Cop & security guard guns contort really bad from temperature extremes whereas guns that stay in stable climate not as much. You might try Flitz on the rails to slick it up. Or you could use automotive rubbing compound for a few back & forths until satisfied (make sure you clean it out good). Do not use lapping compound because it won't all clean out & continue to work down the parts in bad ways.
~ Best regards.
@@opinionsvary Thanks for your answer! I really refrain to file anywhere on that Colt not to make things worse and hopefully the gunsmith found the right places to adjust. The magazine I used was a quality Kimber 8 shot magazine which has a feed lip quite different from the orginal Colt which actually looks cheap, with a step in the feed lip. The Kimber feed lip looks akin to modern magazines like on the Beretta 92F, no step at all. Anyway I cant understand why the slide would go forward by itself when inserting the magazine; not a problem before, but developed lately. Maybe the gunsmith found out of that!
@@gabork.8715 In my opinion: I probably should do more videos on this 1911 stuff being the amount of views it brings. I have a talent for costing shop owners high end sales.
I noticed quite a few channels trying to save their reputation seeing the challenge to their market trends.
It's a darn fine design, we shouldn't be having all these issues that's mainly their fault.
Unique perspectives. May have something there with the reasonings behind allowable tolerances and accuracy.
In my opinion: The tollerances are needed in order that the slide stop works .002" minimum would be needed to function reliably & the bottom barrel lugs have to get off the slide stop pin right after battery.
If you didn't need the magazine to lock back after last round, it wouldn't matter as much, but it will roll back & forth like a switch slam-hammerering the frame notch & slow the slide down a bit prior to battery (not supposed to work this way).
Gun powder is quite a slide stopper without some wiggle room. Often times it can be worse than dirt. It's not so much the heat expansion that the tollerances are there, it would be because of the effects of gun powder.
If the barrel exterior gets gunky with the slide back the bushing can prematurely pull the barrel forward causing the top hood lugs to wear on the slide grooves. This would be inline with what's regarded as "barrel springing" to parts fitters.
It has to wiggle to continue to run.
Pistol shells often times do not come crimped. Pellet powder tends to be the worst gun clogger when a case crimp isn't used to help burn thoroughly. You typically won't know what type of powder granulation you'd have unless you loaded the shell yourself. A lot of people would argue about it, but cheap non Russian made ammo tends to use pellet powders.
Bad info right here.
In my opinion: Yeah, I should think so being none was provided. What say you man?
Well for one, barrel fitting, and timing is much more than the hood and links, one of the most important aspects is fitting of lower lugs on a real match grade barrel, and the tooling required to do so, chatter? Ummm nope, not needed, the angle bore and thick egw bushing can increase accuracy a bunch when properly fitted. When it “ chatters” it needs to be replaced. Claiming any # link pin to anyone is bad information, that’s not how fitting a barrel and timing works. Other comments about full length guide rods, or 20 years of gunsmithing, to file a simple groove in a slide stop is really not impressive. Need more? I can go on.
I recommend you keep learning about this well over 100 year old design, books and knowledge abound on this gun. Btw…
I sure would like to know who is it that makes a cut rifled 1911 barrel? That is a rhetorical question !
@@chippsterstephens6800
Thank you, i didn't feel like typing out an explanation that i know would not have been nearly as good as yours. So again i say thank you.
Horrible advice here.
Start with a Jerry Kuhnhausen book or two, read up on true match grade gunsmith fit barrels, and bushings. From the army marksmanship units at camp parry to modern custom 1911 builders like Les Baer , Alchemy , Cabot…all very tight guns, and very accurate.
Search for Steve of Allentown online, he is very knowledgeable with the 1911.
This advice is bad, the gun shown is sloppy loose.
As expected of a rock island. But even I rock can be made accurate, I have one. It has zero “chatter”!
In my opinion: So what's your idea of "match grade"? A cigarette lighter 1911 from the gift store?
Like 6" @ 25 yards would be so terrible when most shooters struggle at 10 yards all day long at the ranges.
Would you be one of those guys who gets excited to seeing shooting done at extremely close distances passed off for great distances on TH-cam through a cheap camera lens? I would hope not.
I'd have to admit the last Ed Brown I picked up at a store really didn't impress me with the barrel crown deburred with a common machine shop tool used to scrape off edges. Pretty sure that wouldn't pass the industry standard for gun manufacturing. It would have to be recrowned right at the get go.
Just can't take anyone seriously name dropping self proclaimed market hypers. All those fancy Nancys in your comment all jam something terrible & probably have a looser barrel hood & bushing fit.
It's not that all that complicated. If it's not reliable, it's not all that accurate. If it doesn't go bang, it ain't no thang.
~ 🙃
Everything seems pretty loose in disassembly.
In my opinion: It's supposed to be loose tolerance technology. Like an old yard Master Lock on a fence gate - it's what they were trying for back then. The idea was to make things loose & tight to where it counts the most like a fence chain back then. The barrel hood & bushing tends to bring the 6" group @ 25 yards with the one handed shooting that was the specification for combat back then. This gun probably groups a little better than a Rock Island with my custom barrel fitting.
The load bearing is estimated to be around 5 foot pounds of torque during shooting. The slide up & down wiggle effects the shot group where as the side to side doesn't matter as much so long as the barrel hood locks close to the slide. I try for .002" clearance on either side.
The link set up is supposed to giddy up the barrel into battery. It's important to understand this before trying to fit a bushing. The link holes will oval over time as the barrel will hammer the vertical impact surface to reset the feed. So you fit the hood 1st, then the bushing with it pulled up to the max upward travel the barrel can lock up to. Then you chose the link otherwise the bushing will strum the barrel into battery making alignment problems with the recoil groves in the slide (that's what they are).
The vertical stringing is caused by a sloppy barrel link. The shot pattern will look like the bottom of a smiley face until a thicker link is installed. The group size is caused by the barrel to bushing fit along with the Barrel's hood to slide fitment.
Skipping the hood fitment & going for a tighter bushing causes "barrel springing" & works the slide stop to barrel lug area. It causes the switch lever to slam back & forth in the slot (not good). It has to giddy up not press down under load.
The barrel can only lock up as high as a chambered round will allow. Chopping the feed ramp was how it was done with a longer link back then before we knew better. So don't plan on using the tallest link that will give the tightest lock up because the feed ramp may actually bind on the chambering shell case. This is one of the most common issues with people building custom guns. This makes the gun unreliable & works the extractor claw almost as bad as the wrong ejector profile. It's also the reason the feed ramp must be radial used & not a chop taper. The upper bullet slides under load against the feed ramp during the clambering of a round. This is exactly why the link has to giddy up into battery rather than be rolled up into battery under a tight tolerance loaded system. That why it has to be loose.
Agree, that gun will never win at camp parry and is sloppy loose.
Definitely not a match grade gun, nor fit.
But expected at that price point.
What a joke
In my opinion: 5.3K views & strong. Yeah, that's so hilarious.
@@opinionsvary lots of views and lots of laughter.
Probably be a good idea to gain knowledge first, and not just have a bad opinion.
It’s so easy to learn how to properly fit a true match grade barrel. It’s been done for years.
It’s well documented, accuracy proven, over many years, not just some guy’s thoughts who owns a loose rock island 1911. And cut a groove in the slide stop…lol
Some people don't have a clue, this dude is not even suspicious. Never heard such a bunch of clueless rambling.
In my opinion: Often times when giving instructions to unfamiliar audiences repeating ideas to further them along so audiences might process them constructively in the correct context is necessary with many diverse people.
Looks like you're having trouble concentrating. I can repeat it again if you like.
There's really no audience for you here.