I noticed he didn't sand the veneer before applying the stain. Does veneer require a light sanding before applying the stain? I'm redoing the top of a nightstand that sustained water damage.
What I'd like to see is a good video on how to do raw unbacked sliced veneer and PVA glue. I've got some tiger oak coming in to redo the top on a couple of antique treadle sewing machines.
very nice material to work with great job would you do a video on jigs you set up for your various tools and power tools you use and short cuts to make things easier while you are working
Two more How To use Veneer projects, Use Veneer to make a Modern Bookcase th-cam.com/video/43BpdiyKhmo/w-d-xo.html Use Veneer to make Cool Modern end Tabels th-cam.com/video/Y83tkA-Vi0Q/w-d-xo.html
Your channel has been the best advice on applying veneer!!! Maybe you can help. I’m building custom cabinets in my kitchen. I hate painting, so I was originally going to go with melamine. However I decided I want to use MDO, because I want it to last a long time and not have to worry about water contact. That being said, I still want to avoid painting, so I wanted to use white veneer. Your channel has helped a ton, but what I’m having trouble finding is how I’m supposed to apply the veneer to my shelves that are going to be dadoed into the sides. In all the videos I’ve found, typical application always has the veneer larger than the substrate, and then cut it after application. Any tips for cutting it after where the shelf will go into the dado? Would it be OK to use your glue and iron method after the shelves have been glued and dadoed into the sides? I would have to cut to the exact length of the shelf, but I could still leave the depth wider to trim afterwards. Any tips you have would be so appreciated!!!
I'd wish to make kitchen cabinet doors like this, but have a bevel on the side that is used to open the door. Should I make the edge-band wood sticks much thicker so if I bevel them the plywood would not show up?
Dont apply any veneer like that.You apply the veneer to the board not the board to the veneer.You will catch all kinds of air pockets in between that way and maybe poke a hole when you press down on the board..If you slowly roll/lay it on the board and smooth away as you go , you should be ok.Otherwise great work and it looks great
That turned out better than I expected while watching you put the top down onto the veneer. After watching sooo many of your videos when you Miter a corner, honestly what percentage were cut just a smidge too short off camera (or edited out) - haha?
Hi all novice here, I’m looking for advice. Can you apply a wood veneer to laminate countertops? The laminate is in good condition. I have been trying to find an answer online but haven’t found anything yet and I’m hoping this comment section might have some advice for me. We can’t afford a full kitchen remodel right now (who can?), but we’re are saving hard for it; I figured a stick on wood laminate could be a good option in the meantime while we save. I understand that you can not cut on it, that’s not a problem (we had butcher block in the past and chose not to cut on it also). I think if we can apply wood laminate to the countertops, paint the cabinets, and add a peel and stick backsplash, I’ll stop complaining, love my 1994 kitchen and we can quietly save for two years. We did considered replacing the countertops with butcher block (it’s what I want anyway), but like everything the butcher block isn’t the cheapest option, and I’d rather not waste the wood, time and money when it will to be changed in the remodel in a year or two. It’s a waste of materials and cost I’d rather avoid. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Because if you look at it from the top (where most of the attention usually is) it looks more like a solid piece. You would see the edge banding quite clearly if you do it the other way. At least that's my assumption why. Haha.
Ah! Put the edge banding on BEFORE the veneer! That's what I've done wrong in the past - Doh! Again (as I commented on your last video - How to trim with quarter round) you cut BOTH ends of the edge banding with the mitre saw swung to the left. Do you invert it for the second cut?
What if you stained and varnished first and then laid the veneer down? And can I use an Olfa knife instead of a router? It's going onto ikea laminate furniture. Doesn't have to be perfect.
Jon, this top looks great but I can't justify the added cost and labor of the veneer. A sheet of 24x96 walnut veneer from Rockler is $85, locally a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 walnut plywood is $75. I get the same result for less $ and less work by building the top with walnut plywood.
Thanks Bill...the stick-on is easier to apply without having to use contact cement but is less forgiving...you really only get one shot. You can use wooden spacers when using contact cement to make sure the veneer is lined up perfectly. Here's a video showing that: th-cam.com/video/Y83tkA-Vi0Q/w-d-xo.html
Ken, here's a link to the distributor list and it's great plywood work with. They have West Coast distribtors: jonpeters.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Garnica-North-America-Distributor-List-.pdf
I notice that the Waterlox sealer is made with tung oil. Is there any danger of the veneer adhesive being attacked by tung oil or the citrus solvent that is often used in the initial applications?
I love how accurate your cuts are! You give attention to the detail!
Compared to using contact cement, would you know how long lasting is the "peel & stick" adhesive as you've used in this video?
Thanks for the great tips, Jon. I've yet to try the peel and stick stuff but have more confidence using it now that I saw this video.
Thanks Steve...give it a try
学习了 , 找了很久的教学视频 , 终于找到了 . 感谢bloger , thank UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
I'm sure you make it look even easier than it really is. Good video.
Thanks Bruce
Bruce A. Ulrich καπ
5υ ķ66ni
I noticed he didn't sand the veneer before applying the stain. Does veneer require a light sanding before applying the stain? I'm redoing the top of a nightstand that sustained water damage.
What I'd like to see is a good video on how to do raw unbacked sliced veneer and PVA glue. I've got some tiger oak coming in to redo the top on a couple of antique treadle sewing machines.
very nice material to work with great job would you do a video on jigs you set up for your various tools and power tools you use and short cuts to make things easier while you are working
Thanks Walter...glad it helps
Two more How To use Veneer projects, Use Veneer to make a Modern Bookcase th-cam.com/video/43BpdiyKhmo/w-d-xo.html
Use Veneer to make Cool Modern end Tabels
th-cam.com/video/Y83tkA-Vi0Q/w-d-xo.html
Your channel has been the best advice on applying veneer!!! Maybe you can help.
I’m building custom cabinets in my kitchen. I hate painting, so I was originally going to go with melamine. However I decided I want to use MDO, because I want it to last a long time and not have to worry about water contact. That being said, I still want to avoid painting, so I wanted to use white veneer. Your channel has helped a ton, but what I’m having trouble finding is how I’m supposed to apply the veneer to my shelves that are going to be dadoed into the sides.
In all the videos I’ve found, typical application always has the veneer larger than the substrate, and then cut it after application. Any tips for cutting it after where the shelf will go into the dado? Would it be OK to use your glue and iron method after the shelves have been glued and dadoed into the sides? I would have to cut to the exact length of the shelf, but I could still leave the depth wider to trim afterwards.
Any tips you have would be so appreciated!!!
A really interesting Video, thanks a lot for showing. The walnut looks very nice!
Thanks
I'd wish to make kitchen cabinet doors like this, but have a bevel on the side that is used to open the door. Should I make the edge-band wood sticks much thicker so if I bevel them the plywood would not show up?
Dont apply any veneer like that.You apply the veneer to the board not the board to the veneer.You will catch all kinds of air pockets in between that way and maybe poke a hole when you press down on the board..If you slowly roll/lay it on the board and smooth away as you go , you should be ok.Otherwise great work and it looks great
That turned out better than I expected while watching you put the top down onto the veneer.
After watching sooo many of your videos when you Miter a corner, honestly what percentage were cut just a smidge too short off camera (or edited out) - haha?
Hi all novice here, I’m looking for advice. Can you apply a wood veneer to laminate countertops? The laminate is in good condition.
I have been trying to find an answer online but haven’t found anything yet and I’m hoping this comment section might have some advice for me. We can’t afford a full kitchen remodel right now (who can?), but we’re are saving hard for it; I figured a stick on wood laminate could be a good option in the meantime while we save. I understand that you can not cut on it, that’s not a problem (we had butcher block in the past and chose not to cut on it also). I think if we can apply wood laminate to the countertops, paint the cabinets, and add a peel and stick backsplash, I’ll stop complaining, love my 1994 kitchen and we can quietly save for two years. We did considered replacing the countertops with butcher block (it’s what I want anyway), but like everything the butcher block isn’t the cheapest option, and I’d rather not waste the wood, time and money when it will to be changed in the remodel in a year or two. It’s a waste of materials and cost I’d rather avoid.
Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great video Jon, Thanks for sharing. I will have to try that veneer on my cabinet I am going to build...
Give it a try Felix
beautiful , could I use the veneer around the edges as well If I don't have the walnut strips
Do you have to use a softer wood than your veneer for the block to press it down? Does it matter?
Jon, why would you put the edge banding on before the veneer? Wouldn't the edge banding help hide the edge of the veneer? Thanks
Because if you look at it from the top (where most of the attention usually is) it looks more like a solid piece. You would see the edge banding quite clearly if you do it the other way. At least that's my assumption why. Haha.
That's it David...running the veneer first makes for a cleaner one-piece look.
Ah! Put the edge banding on BEFORE the veneer! That's what I've done wrong in the past - Doh!
Again (as I commented on your last video - How to trim with quarter round) you cut BOTH ends of the edge banding with the mitre saw swung to the left. Do you invert it for the second cut?
Excellent travail bravo.
+titou cosm thank you!
Possible to use it on heavily painted kitchen cabinets?
What if you stained and varnished first and then laid the veneer down? And can I use an Olfa knife instead of a router? It's going onto ikea laminate furniture. Doesn't have to be perfect.
with PSA veneer, you only have to veneer one side?
You're the best.
Greetings from Brasil
Thanks Andre
looking tired there man! Get some rest and thanks for the tips and looking forward to the final project video.
thanks, looks great, very helpful!
That turned out nice
Appreciate it
Jon, this top looks great but I can't justify the added cost and labor of the veneer. A sheet of 24x96 walnut veneer from Rockler is $85, locally a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 walnut plywood is $75. I get the same result for less $ and less work by building the top with walnut plywood.
Nice video and great job
Thank you
What size router bit is that, 1/2 straight?
Jon, very nice. Could you please share the name of the veneer and where I can purchase them (web site if possible). Thank you !!!
How would you compare the stick on vs. contact cement veneer methods? Great video by the way. You have a great presenting style.
Thanks Bill...the stick-on is easier to apply without having to use contact cement but is less forgiving...you really only get one shot. You can use wooden spacers when using contact cement to make sure the veneer is lined up perfectly. Here's a video showing that: th-cam.com/video/Y83tkA-Vi0Q/w-d-xo.html
so nice!
Thanks
Wow love it so muck looks amazing thanks
awesome job
Thanks David
Good job. Can you tell me what is the kind of the oil you used for finishing at 4:34, please. Thanks
Water Lox
Thank you for the Video.
Thanks
Looking great!
Thanks Rick
@Jon Peters Art & Home is that natural veneer or modified?
Is that the Garnica ply you speak about? Nice stuff. Do you know if they plan West Coast distribution? Thanks.
Ken, here's a link to the distributor list and it's great plywood work with. They have West Coast distribtors:
jonpeters.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Garnica-North-America-Distributor-List-.pdf
Jon what router bit do you use? mine give me tearout when crosscut veneer.
would regular polyurathane work in the place of water based?
Probably but tested on a small piece first
@@JonPetersArtHome ok
Beautiful place. Is it USA or Canada.
Thanks Bobby..in New Jersey
excellent
Thank you
What kind of clamps were those that you held the banding on with? They look very useful.
Brian Oney Bandy clamps from Rockler
www.rockler.com/rockler-bandy-clamps
You got it...Rockler Bandy Clamps
super jon
Thanks!
With all of that extra work to use peel and stick, you might as well just use contact cement. I´m glad I saw this video before purchasing.
Great Video, thanks for sharing!
Thank you
Perfect timing :D
Great
Who knew Liam Neeson was into woodworking?
the peel and stick veneer is so expensive you could just buy walnut veneer plywood.
it's nice
Thank you
I notice that the Waterlox sealer is made with tung oil. Is there any danger of the veneer adhesive being attacked by tung oil or the citrus solvent that is often used in the initial applications?
Never had a problem