wow Bill that is something else!, I had been thinking while watching the video as to how long the effect would last and I am betting it would last as long as the typical case hardening would, just keep a coat of oil in it, even when you would wear through the color it would be a simple thing to just touch it up, Thanks for the video
Here it is, 2018, and I haphazardly ran across this channel. How could I have missed this up until this point? This appears to be a legitimate product that I'll likely put to work fairly soon, of course, with Bill Worden's advice, first. As for the video presentation... who wouldn't love it. All things considered, great video. A big thumbs up from this ole Kentucky boy.
+John Saia Good Question!~ The answer is simple, but there are a lot of variables. Yes! Any time you warm the metal substrate, the patina's chemical reaction will change a little. The problem is with exact heat, technique, timing, duration of contact, etc. If you do experiment with warming the metal, I wouldn't go above 200ºF & use a Non-Contact Thermometer. And, be mindful of hidden parts or adjacent materials that may not be "heat-friendly". Warming the patinas would have no distinct benefit, but warming the metal is a good idea. Take lots of bench notes, as it will be difficult to get the same results down the road w/o them. Thanks! Bill Worden, Owner - STEEL F/X® PATINAS
Bill I just used the case color on a camp knife I made years ago. It came out looking GREAT !! Will email the photos if you want to use them be my guest.
Bill, I am "Rescuing", from a parts bin, a Winchester 1890 .22 Long that was damaged in a fire. It was a complete write off with no wood. I have draw filed and hand polished all the metal parts. I think I will try your case coloring on the receiver parts.
Cool! Let me know how it goes. I just launched a new product called, 'STAINLESS F/X™', which does a great job of Color Case-Hardening on Stainless. There's a couple of recent videos I did here on TH-cam. Look for them on the Playlist called, 'Color Case Hardening'. Thanks! Bill
@Neal...It would look cool on most any type of blade. Where can I take a look at your Kukri Knives? fb? Pinterest? Website? Wouldn't mind having one. I've made a couple of knives (years ago), but let's just say...(I sucked at it). What I made wouldn't pull $0.50 at a yard sale. Takes a lot of patience & a keen eye, not to mention...the right tools & equipment. I really admire some of the independent blade-smiths & the work they put out. It's almost a lost art! Thanks! Bill
@Spek...Powder-Coating is fine. I recommend that the piece be wiped down with a clear-coat tack-cloth, just prior to shooting on the powder. Beneficial? Depends on the powder used, your application and intended use. I know hundreds (thousands, actually), that use powder-coat over their patinated steel, as they feel it's easier than spraying a 2-part Automotive Clear. Both ways are fine. And, both ways come in a huge range of quality ratings, so choose a PC that has UVI and has at least a 100% Gloss Factor, (if you want gloss). Thanks! Bill
Bill, thanks for making this video. I am restoring/building some muzzle loaders and I am considering doing this to the "furniture" on one of my weapons. Will this process protect from rust or is it just cosmetic?
The Case-Hardening Products I make are a form of cold-bluing, which by definition, is 'controlled oxidation (rust)..so all bluing products that work by chemical reaction with the steel or iron (or Stainless Steel), require a sealer of some kind, be it oil, wax, polyurethane or a product like Cera-Kote. I did a knife blade the other day using PPF™ Film ( See Video Here: th-cam.com/video/b7O0PYHcvEY/w-d-xo.html ), and sealed the final work with "RENAISSANCE WAX", a product that I've never used before, but had heard good things about. I purchased a 4 oz. jar from Amazon. I really liked it, now I have to see how well it holds up. The Gel Patinas for Case-Hardening are extremely popular, but check out my latest video on 'STAINLESS F/X™", which works on Stainless Steel OR Carbon Steel, as well as Copper, Brass & Bronze. You can learn more about the product on my website. Here's a link to the page for STAINLESS F/X™": steelfxpatinas.com/shop/stainless-steel-patinas/stainless-fx-stainless-steel-patina/ Thanks! Bill
+John Saia I agree, John. I now have a 1 oz. Kit of "Color Case-Hardening" Patinas, in Gel Form, on my site, steelfxpatinas. steelfxpatinas.com/shop/steel-patinas/gel-patinas-complete-set/. Use the drop-down list to choose 1 oz., 2oz., 4 oz., 8 oz. or 16 oz. Great Introductory Pricing, too. I will be doing more color case-hardening patina videos & just last week, created a black/mottled patina for Stainless Steel. I will do a video demo of that patina (not yet named) on a couple of Stainless Steel Knife Blades. Thanks! Bill Worden, Owner...STEEL F/X® PATINAS.
Not that I've heard of personally. I'll buy some & test, but I'm sure it will be fine. The patina can't be removed or degraded by solvents. Prep should be identical for any solvent-based topcoat. 😆 Bill
+Cliff Wilson The easiest way to color brass is with a liquid mixture of distilled water & Liver of Sulfur. It will produce a blackening effect. There is also a product on my site, called "COPPER HEAT F/X™, which produces brilliant blues on Brass (which is mostly Copper). COPPER HEAT F/X™ will work on Copper, Bronze or Brass. I'm sorry I didn't see your question until now. Thanks! Bill Worden, STEEL F/X® PATINAS. www.steelfxpatinas.com
@Rob...Cool! Let me know how it turns out. email me a photo or two if you get time. Thanks Bill. And check out my newest product, which works on carbon steel OR Stainless Steel: STAINLESS F/X™ Here's a link to the STAINLESS F/X™ on my website: steelfxpatinas.com/shop/steel-patinas/stainless-fx-stainless-steel-patina/ Thanks! Bill
All steel, regardless of case-hardening or bluing, will rust if not oiled, waxed or otherwise sealed. Bluing, whether hot or cold, is a form of oxidation. Neither is a rust preventative, nor is case-hardening a rust preventative. Patinas are very similar to bluing, in that they are a form of controlled oxidation, and all patinas on steel need to be protected from oxygen & moisture. thanks! Bill
+Bill Worden The copper wash that you put on it first should help slow down rust as long as the acid carrier is neutralized enough with oil. Anyone who owns guns knows they need to be wiped down with oil periodically and or waxed to prevent rust......even stainless, chrome or nickeled guns.
+John Saia The acid content of the Copper is way under 1% and would be no barrier to the formation of rust, either below the patina or from above. You would not want to use oil to neutralize, unless it's a water based oil. Plain water is the best neutralizer, as most tap water is above 7.0pH and as I mentioned, the acid content of all of my patinas is very, very low. Thanks! Bill
All bluing products need to be oiled, sealed or clear-coated to prevent rust. The barrel or lever won't be affected if you protect them from the additional bluing patina. Bill
Definitely keep me updated. i have lots of chrome on my bike and love the way this looks. everyone has chrome, its flashy and looks good but this would be a different take on chrome!
Does not work on Chrome. I was hoping it would & in fact, I altered the formula, and it still did not have any effect at all. :o( A person could use a pencil tip, butane or air/acetylene jeweler's torch, to heat-color chrome, but I wouldn't even attempt it. There's a chance of de-lamination, or changing the properties (making it more brittle, etc.)...I'm just saying if there's a will there's a way. The problem is this: Any attempt to change the color of a very hard alloy, like Chromium, runs the risk of going south on you, real quick. bw
wow Bill that is something else!, I had been thinking while watching the video as to how long the effect would last and I am betting it would last as long as the typical case hardening would, just keep a coat of oil in it, even when you would wear through the color it would be a simple thing to just touch it up,
Thanks for the video
Thanks for your comments! Bill
Here it is, 2018, and I haphazardly ran across this channel. How could I have missed this up until this point? This appears to be a legitimate product that I'll likely put to work fairly soon, of course, with Bill Worden's advice, first. As for the video presentation... who wouldn't love it. All things considered, great video. A big thumbs up from this ole Kentucky boy.
Thanks a lot for the review & 'thumbs up'...your remarks are greatly appreciated! (no kidding)! 👍😎
Looks like you are etching the surface basically? Came out great, by the way.
Can you use some of your other products to make more blue hues come out? Can you use low heat to enhance the process?
+John Saia Good Question!~ The answer is simple, but there are a lot of variables. Yes! Any time you warm the metal substrate, the patina's chemical reaction will change a little. The problem is with exact heat, technique, timing, duration of contact, etc. If you do experiment with warming the metal, I wouldn't go above 200ºF & use a Non-Contact Thermometer. And, be mindful of hidden parts or adjacent materials that may not be "heat-friendly". Warming the patinas would have no distinct benefit, but warming the metal is a good idea. Take lots of bench notes, as it will be difficult to get the same results down the road w/o them. Thanks! Bill Worden, Owner - STEEL F/X® PATINAS
Absolutely beautiful! 💯
Bill I just used the case color on a camp knife I made years ago. It came out looking GREAT !! Will email the photos if you want to use them be my guest.
Fantastic! Please send photos. My email is on the site if you don't already have it. Thanks. Bill
Hi Bill. How long does this process last on the metal work? quite interested in doing some of the side plates on my shotguns with this! Great video!
The patina finish will last indefinitely if protected from the elements. Oil, Wax, Lacquer or other clear-coating. Thanks for the question. :o) Bill
thanks Bill :)
Bill, I am "Rescuing", from a parts bin, a Winchester 1890 .22 Long that was damaged in a fire. It was a complete write off with no wood. I have draw filed and hand polished all the metal parts. I think I will try your case coloring on the receiver parts.
Cool! Let me know how it goes. I just launched a new product called, 'STAINLESS F/X™', which does a great job of Color Case-Hardening on Stainless. There's a couple of recent videos I did here on TH-cam. Look for them on the Playlist called, 'Color Case Hardening'. Thanks! Bill
Damn, this stuff is so cool! Seriously considering doing this to one of my kukri knives.
@Neal...It would look cool on most any type of blade. Where can I take a look at your Kukri Knives? fb? Pinterest? Website? Wouldn't mind having one. I've made a couple of knives (years ago), but let's just say...(I sucked at it). What I made wouldn't pull $0.50 at a yard sale.
Takes a lot of patience & a keen eye, not to mention...the right tools & equipment.
I really admire some of the independent blade-smiths & the work they put out. It's almost a lost art! Thanks! Bill
If I were to powder coat my work piece clear after applying this, would it mess with the finish or be beneficial?
@Spek...Powder-Coating is fine. I recommend that the piece be wiped down with a clear-coat tack-cloth, just prior to shooting on the powder. Beneficial? Depends on the powder used, your application and intended use. I know hundreds (thousands, actually), that use powder-coat over their patinated steel, as they feel it's easier than spraying a 2-part Automotive Clear. Both ways are fine. And, both ways come in a huge range of quality ratings, so choose a PC that has UVI and has at least a 100% Gloss Factor, (if you want gloss). Thanks! Bill
Bill, thanks for making this video. I am restoring/building some muzzle loaders and I am considering doing this to the "furniture" on one of my weapons. Will this process protect from rust or is it just cosmetic?
The Case-Hardening Products I make are a form of cold-bluing, which by definition, is 'controlled oxidation (rust)..so all bluing products that work by chemical reaction with the steel or iron (or Stainless Steel), require a sealer of some kind, be it oil, wax, polyurethane or a product like Cera-Kote. I did a knife blade the other day using PPF™ Film ( See Video Here: th-cam.com/video/b7O0PYHcvEY/w-d-xo.html ), and sealed the final work with "RENAISSANCE WAX", a product that I've never used before, but had heard good things about. I purchased a 4 oz. jar from Amazon. I really liked it, now I have to see how well it holds up.
The Gel Patinas for Case-Hardening are extremely popular, but check out my latest video on 'STAINLESS F/X™", which works on Stainless Steel OR Carbon Steel, as well as Copper, Brass & Bronze. You can learn more about the product on my website. Here's a link to the page for STAINLESS F/X™": steelfxpatinas.com/shop/stainless-steel-patinas/stainless-fx-stainless-steel-patina/
Thanks!
Bill
Bill Worden so it’s not case hardening, so much as a bluing/coppering.
In the future seeing other guns that have been done this way would be very cool especially some of the Ruger Single Actions.
+John Saia I agree, John. I now have a 1 oz. Kit of "Color Case-Hardening" Patinas, in Gel Form, on my site, steelfxpatinas. steelfxpatinas.com/shop/steel-patinas/gel-patinas-complete-set/. Use the drop-down list to choose 1 oz., 2oz., 4 oz., 8 oz. or 16 oz. Great Introductory Pricing, too. I will be doing more color case-hardening patina videos & just last week, created a black/mottled patina for Stainless Steel. I will do a video demo of that patina (not yet named) on a couple of Stainless Steel Knife Blades. Thanks! Bill Worden, Owner...STEEL F/X® PATINAS.
Would it work on a post 64 Winchester receiver?
Yes, it will.
would this work on aluminum? - thinking a case-hardened finish on an AR would be fantastic
Nope...sorry. It won't work on aluminum...just steel. 🤔
Bill Worden - guess I’ll have to look into dipping it then- thanks anyway
This is incredible! I want to buy some
Hi Bill, I recently ordered a Tradition Muzzleloader build kit. Will your product work on that?
Yes, it will! The ONLY thing it won't work on is Aluminum. Thanks! Bill
has anyone tried clear Cerakote over this 'patina' ... what prep steps pre Cerakote and what kind of results are being had?? thX
Not that I've heard of personally. I'll buy some & test, but I'm sure it will be fine. The patina can't be removed or degraded by solvents. Prep should be identical for any solvent-based topcoat. 😆
Bill
I have a henry is there any way to color the brass ? I was thinking silver but now I'm not so sure...
+Cliff Wilson The easiest way to color brass is with a liquid mixture of distilled water & Liver of Sulfur. It will produce a blackening effect. There is also a product on my site, called "COPPER HEAT F/X™, which produces brilliant blues on Brass (which is mostly Copper). COPPER HEAT F/X™ will work on Copper, Bronze or Brass. I'm sorry I didn't see your question until now.
Thanks! Bill Worden, STEEL F/X® PATINAS. www.steelfxpatinas.com
Pretty cool
Thanks 😊
Going to try this on a muzzleloader I'm building.
@Rob...Cool! Let me know how it turns out. email me a photo or two if you get time. Thanks Bill.
And check out my newest product, which works on carbon steel OR Stainless Steel: STAINLESS F/X™
Here's a link to the STAINLESS F/X™ on my website: steelfxpatinas.com/shop/steel-patinas/stainless-fx-stainless-steel-patina/
Thanks!
Bill
Will do.....
Will this work on a new blued gun?
Yes, but the original bluing has to be removed first.
With no blueing and no case hardening on the receiver, is it not prone to rusting?
All steel, regardless of case-hardening or bluing, will rust if not oiled, waxed or otherwise sealed.
Bluing, whether hot or cold, is a form of oxidation. Neither is a rust preventative, nor is case-hardening a rust preventative.
Patinas are very similar to bluing, in that they are a form of controlled oxidation, and all patinas on steel need to be protected from oxygen & moisture.
thanks!
Bill
+Bill Worden The copper wash that you put on it first should help slow down rust as long as the acid carrier is neutralized enough with oil. Anyone who owns guns knows they need to be wiped down with oil periodically and or waxed to prevent rust......even stainless, chrome or nickeled guns.
+John Saia The acid content of the Copper is way under 1% and would be no barrier to the formation of rust, either below the patina or from above. You would not want to use oil to neutralize, unless it's a water based oil. Plain water is the best neutralizer, as most tap water is above 7.0pH and as I mentioned, the acid content of all of my patinas is very, very low.
Thanks! Bill
do you need to protect the blued parts in anyway? will this alter the barrel or lever bluing? thanks
All bluing products need to be oiled, sealed or clear-coated to prevent rust.
The barrel or lever won't be affected if you protect them from the additional bluing patina. Bill
but it won't effect the bluing that is already there? i.e. if i get some accidentally on the lever or barrel?
mrsa101 ...as I said, you'd need to protect blued areas you don't want affected by the patinas.
ahhh. now i understand. i miss read your first reply. thank you
no problem! Cheers! Bill
Will this work on aluminum alloy?
No...sorry. Mild Steel and Tool Steel Only.
any reason this won't work on chrome motorcycle parts??
Definitely keep me updated. i have lots of chrome on my bike and love the way this looks. everyone has chrome, its flashy and looks good but this would be a different take on chrome!
Okay, will do! IF it works, I'll do a video for it, too.
Does not work on Chrome. I was hoping it would & in fact, I altered the formula, and it still did not have any effect at all. :o( A person could use a pencil tip, butane or air/acetylene jeweler's torch, to heat-color chrome, but I wouldn't even attempt it. There's a chance of de-lamination, or changing the properties (making it more brittle, etc.)...I'm just saying if there's a will there's a way. The problem is this: Any attempt to change the color of a very hard alloy, like Chromium, runs the risk of going south on you, real quick. bw
Great video. You should play that great banjo music throughout your videos!
+Bobby Ricketts Thanks! :-)
you should be able to get your money back. send them a picture of how it messed up your gun.
Just kidding. nice video.
Thanks. (I think...) 🤔
So when you say apply oil liberally do you mean wastefully with little to no thought behind legislation of oil? Lol
ha!
It's the year 2022.
Your joke has more humorous bearing now than it did 6 years ago!
You washed out the screw holes.
No...didn't happen. They're fine.