My bike had the same problem, also done 7000 kms, i stripped it yesterday and cleaned all the dirt out and like yours fine now and as a coincidence i had bought the same power tool as you! I'm also in Thailand.
My life is one coincidence mate 🤣 I had to change the bell housing the other day because it went bad again. I found a genuine Honda housing (it was for a Forza 350) on Shopee for 650 + 100 delivery. I also fitted some 18g weights and the mid-range response and acceleration is incredible now, it's something to play around with until you're happy.
When I first got my 2001 NSS250 Honda Reflex it too had a horrendous shudder on take off from stop signs and stop lights. Well folks there is a cure but the permanent fix is costly and it takes time and effort. I purchased and installed a Malossi racing clutch and matching clutch bell along with a much stronger contra spring that fixed the belt vibration up at highway speeds. I set up the clutch for street use(longer clutch pad life) and not race track use. The clutch comes with 3 different colored clutch springs and I chose the yellow springs for a 2500 rpm engagement on take off around town. That was about 40000 miles ago and it is still engages smoothly with no shutter. Good luck folks with your scooter if you decide to do this little improvement, it worked well for me!!😁
I've been waiting for a review on the Malossi clutch and now I've got one - I'm going to order a complete kit today on your recommendation. Cheers mate 👍
@@Vortecks Well you won't be sorry if you have the clutch adjusted for street use and that is if you are looking for a clutch that will last. I put a new drive belt on once a year every spring time. My average is around 10000 miles a year on my scooter and I'm not ham fisted on take offs from stop lights and stop signs. With every drive belt change all components in the CVT are disassembled, cleaned and regreased(driven pulley only for the grease) and reassembled. I also have sliders instead of rollers in my variator and that made a wonderful difference on my 0 to 45 acceleration, have also so far had no problems from the sliders and the same set have been in the bike since 23000 miles and I just turned 62000 miles the other day. Good luck and have a wonderful day!!😁There is something I need to add. Between 14000 mile when I bought my scoot and 20000 miles, before the clutch and variator "MODS", there was a hard knocks lesson I had to learn about CVT transmissions on my scoot in particular. High speeds mixed with extremely hot outside air temps will absolutely destroy even a new drive belt. My experience is if outside air temps are 90 degrees F do not spend any amount of time over 70 mph or you will cook and shred the drive belt. High speeds, over 70 mph, and hot and humid outside air temps of + 90 degrees F are a no no. But running on 2 lane roads at 55 or 60 mph all day long will do absolutely no harm at all even in 100 degree temps. Good luck folks!!
Thank you for this video. It's good to know how to solve the problem in case I'll encounter it. Can you tell me what's the difference is with the new suspension on the back, I saw that it is the Pro Fender, and I'm thinking of replacing my stock suspension, also, but I'm looking for an upgrade. I saw that ISS is also an option, but I don't know too many details. Thank you. You're doing a great job helping the ADV 350 owners 😊
The main difference is the adjustability. I'm going touring later this week and I'll be carrying a lot of weight on the back - If I have the suspension too soft, the back end squats down and it increases the chance of a 'tank slapper' if the steering is too unloaded. If it's just you on the bike then there's no real need to upgrade things but..... I did notice that the back wheel steps out a bit on cornering with the original suspension, this could be because I'm only 72kg but the new suspension stops it completely when the preload and rebound are adjusted. With regards to YSS Vs Pro Fender...... it was purely a price thing. I needed to drop my suspension by 40mm and the Pro Fender was 2,000 baht cheaper than the equivalent YSS.
@Vortecks Thank you for your response, I will look forward to the YSS suspension. From what I know, the Pro Fender is not available in Europe. I saw on the Lazada app that they have an upgrade for the fork, also. It looks like better springs for the front suspension, but I really don't know if it makes a significant difference. Thank you again. I wish you all the best!
It wasn't a case of torque limitation but an inability to lock things against the torque - 10 years ago, this wouldn't have been a problem but now that we're in an era of impact guns, it is.
When fixing a scooter or anything at the side of the road in Thailand you are meant to do the Thai crouch. Unfortunately most farangs are to fat and end up falling over.
Ah.. you're sharp as a tack good prognosis ....your sorted. Good vid for many people to follow and remember...well done! Your 99% was correct...was enjoyable
When I looked at the bell housing and how blue it was, I suspected that it was warped and I ordered a new one in case. I decided to clean it up first but I did have to change it the other day when it got really bad.
Nice work, shame you don't have a little shed/ carport to be your mini workshop ! But never stop these types of vidsTony- the trips are great n all - but these are the jewels !
I have access to a massive workshop mate but it's not equipped with tools that I specifically need. In the next ADV video, I'll eat humble pie and explain why I had to change the bell housing.
Tony, for the 'dust' use tinned air, followed by 'gunk' cleaning spray. That said, *altern8tive* has covered what is wrong. 😕 Stay happy and free (we're not back here 🙄) 😎🖖
Tinned air over here is pretty asthmatic mate, I tried it. Gunk is something that isn't used because kerosene or petrol does the same job - things that aren't used, aren't generally sold and Thai people are VERY resourceful. In the UK, there's a different chemical for every need but over here, it's whatever is available - WD40 switch cleaner has many purposes because it's readily available and it works. The western world would be lost if half of the manufacturers suddenly disappeared but over here, we wouldn't notice a difference - this is like the 80's where we used common sense and whatever was available 😁👍
Hello, I wanted to ask how was the vibration on the handle bar? Mine was quite bad after 10-15 min ride my hand start to feel the pain. Tried puppy grip, heavier bar end weight and tighten the handlebar but it doesnt help... Feels like giving up the bike
If you're feeling vibrations when you're riding around, it sounds to me like you have a stuck friction pad in your clutch. If I were you, I'd look for a clutch kit and replace the inner mechanism. The vibrations you're getting aren't the same as the ones I get, my problem is due to a warped clutch bell housing, your problem is due to a faulty friction pad.
perfect. I have the same scoot and will tell u that u gotta do this, including the air filter replacement, every 3 - 5000km max. Or ur local Honda guy will do it all for about B600 :-) cant beat that. good vid m8
Cheers buddy, I appreciate that. I ended up replacing the bell housing the other day because it got so bad. When I did this video, I ordered an OEM one because I knew it wasn't right. I've never owned a scooter so I've got a lot to learn but now I've dismantled it and I know how things work, maintenance should be easy. I also changed the weights for some 19g ones and it's completely transformed it - the acceleration is amazing now but the top-end is reduced by 10-15kmh (which I'm not bothered about). It should also reduce the heat on the clutch because the RPM has increased, reducing friction.
A build up of clutch lining material as the clutch beds in...Now its bedded in, dust build should be slower....I was surprised the little impact gun worked TBH....Take care Tony M8....😏😀👍🇬🇧
Cheers buddy, I hope the UK isn't as bad as the things I've seen recently. The bell housing is f***** mate, it finally went really bad the other day. I took it to Honda and they said that it's normal but then they admitted that Honda worldwide cannot admit to a manufacturing defect because of repercussions. They said that it's a very widespread problem and they told me to buy a new housing (which cost me £14 delivered). They offered to fit it for me but I did it myself. The new housing is fitted and it's back to how it was when I bought it. It looks like the bell housing is a consumable part and it should be replaced at around 8,000km (5,000 miles) along with the friction shoes and possibly the variator - total cost is around £45 which is acceptable.
@@Vortecks Well, at least it's cheap. It's a design defect. Insufficient centrifugal pressure as the clutch takes up the drive and slips....Basically, it's too small in diameter or the bob weight springs are too strong....I used to design machinery....lol....🤔😏😏🇬🇧
Oh boy, that clutch bell is toasted.. sometimes when bell got this much overheated it can warp, and cause more problems with the clutch.. Second clue that the cvt system is overheating is black residue from the belt on the variator. CVT cover has some filter on it, if you use the bike on a dusty road, you should inspect that filter more often, to provide enough cooling in the cvt... For parts cleaning you can use brake cleaner to make it a bit easier ... Cheers! :)
Cheers buddy, I appreciate the input. Yes, it's totally toast but I really don't know why, it's only done 7,000km and it hasn't really been abused, just average riding. I never took it to the Honda dealer because I've read countless reports saying that this is normal wear and tear and the bell housing is a consumable item.
@@Vortecks Did you inspect the foam filter in the CVT cover ( it is in the first plastic cover with 4 bolts which you remove on top of the CVT case, serial no 19414-K1B-T00) ? For example, if you ride the scooter on a gravel for 7 days, that filter will be shut with the dust, and overheat the CVT immediately.. When you removed your air filter, it didn't look good either.. You should clean your CVT filter weekly, or replace it with more breathable custom made, or remove it completely... Good luck :)
It was probably around 150km before it went wrong again. I ended up changing the bell housing but it seems like it's happening again. Someone (he says he's a mechanic) said to clean and grease the friction shoe pivots which I'm going to do very shortly.
I have replaced the clutch bell with one from Malossi. 70 km still running smoothly. My adv is 13000 km old, but this juddering follows me from 1000 km
@@kosten My question to you is....... The Malossi clutches are quite expensive, do you think it is worth the price? I've been thinking about the Malossi kit for a while now but I don't know anyone who has actually fitted one.
@@Vortecks actually, if the clutch kit will solve the problem, I’m ready to replace the clutch too. Many mechanics say the source of the problem is the variator dish. But the aftermarket variators are technically the same devices. J.Costa is a little bit different, but I saw the reviews with negative feedbacks
Hi! Please help. Is forza 350 and adv 350 clutch the same? Due to tax in Turkey, Forza 250 comes with a 3-piece clutch set and remains small. I'm thinking of replacing it with an Adv 350 clutch set.
Bell housing looks like it's severely overheated - temperature discoloration. If it's warped it may cause premature wear or damage to the clutch and if warped possible return of the juddering maybe
@@EnglishTurbinesbut maybe not for the distance this bike has done. Clutch slip after 20-30,000 km seems more applicable, or possibly it's the hapazzard stop/go environment of the local roads 🤷♂️
@@altern8tive All clutches have an element of slip. This is what makes them heat up. The Clutch bell is fairly low mass, lightweight which is why it is showing the telltale blue colour. Blue isn't very hot, as I said before....😳🇬🇧
Hi...I saw a video of this a few weeks ago as you it's in my list of potential purchases... and a guy done a video of it and he cleaned out all the gubbins from that casing after striping down. Wallah...it fixed his too l dont know what it is but from some wear in that casing...I will try find it.
Thanks, John. Sadly, the vibration is back and Honda have said that it's normal and I have to ride it harder to stop it juddering on acceleration. I've bought a new clutch bell for £18 so we'll see if it fixes it. Not happy after 3,700 miles but I knew there was a problem by the blue colouring - it's a sign that it's warped.
Yes, I saw the blueing that doesn't look right. I saw vid guy doing it and 2 yrs old. I emailed link. It is also under Honda warranty still, that's hopefully be covered. Worth a try. But you are same me I would want to get to bottom of it. Tho only done bike strip downs...the drive belts ..auto...all new to me. I would still push Honda under warranty as not old at all and low klm.🤔
Three days ago I was on my Honda ADV clutch propeller deformed and my engine block slipped, it must be a serial error because the supplier told me that they sold quite a few of these clutch propellers last year. I am very disappointed with the Honda, as the engine is only two years old and has 17,000km on it. Such mistakes never happened so early on older scooters
It is a shame that Honda haven't addressed the problem and they refuse to accept that there's a design flaw. The Malossi clutch kit is praised everywhere so there's definitely room for improvement.
@@Vortecks I didn't so nice you replied. Some time ago I bought me DTW152...and it was stolen on building site.Now I have DTW700 to screw in my car and my little helper TD111. BTW - red and other colors are available in Japan.
Unfortunately, Honda is well aware of this problem, but they seem to have absolutely no intention of improving it. Many adv 350 users are using other parts due to this problem.
Please use your tools in the right way. Jesus. You have the tool in your hand and you dont use it on your clutch. 😅 You can use your vario blocker tool for your clutch.
Stupid question but are you sure it's the clutch area? A tapping sound when cold might be a sign of worn piston rings or little-end bearing. A knocking sound might be a sign of big-end bearing or crank bearing wear. Does the sound disappear when the clutch has engaged?
Yes, it only does it when I give gas for the first time when it's cold, it doesn't do it again after the wheel moves. Even if I stop it while it's hot, when I start it again and give gas, I don't hear that sound. Actually my bad its not taping its juddering sound comes from variator area
My bike had the same problem, also done 7000 kms, i stripped it yesterday and cleaned all the dirt out and like yours fine now and as a coincidence i had bought the same power tool as you! I'm also in Thailand.
My life is one coincidence mate 🤣
I had to change the bell housing the other day because it went bad again. I found a genuine Honda housing (it was for a Forza 350) on Shopee for 650 + 100 delivery. I also fitted some 18g weights and the mid-range response and acceleration is incredible now, it's something to play around with until you're happy.
When I first got my 2001 NSS250 Honda Reflex it too had a horrendous shudder on take off from stop signs and stop lights. Well folks there is a cure but the permanent fix is costly and it takes time and effort. I purchased and installed a Malossi racing clutch and matching clutch bell along with a much stronger contra spring that fixed the belt vibration up at highway speeds. I set up the clutch for street use(longer clutch pad life) and not race track use. The clutch comes with 3 different colored clutch springs and I chose the yellow springs for a 2500 rpm engagement on take off around town. That was about 40000 miles ago and it is still engages smoothly with no shutter. Good luck folks with your scooter if you decide to do this little improvement, it worked well for me!!😁
I've been waiting for a review on the Malossi clutch and now I've got one - I'm going to order a complete kit today on your recommendation.
Cheers mate 👍
@@Vortecks Well you won't be sorry if you have the clutch adjusted for street use and that is if you are looking for a clutch that will last. I put a new drive belt on once a year every spring time. My average is around 10000 miles a year on my scooter and I'm not ham fisted on take offs from stop lights and stop signs. With every drive belt change all components in the CVT are disassembled, cleaned and regreased(driven pulley only for the grease) and reassembled. I also have sliders instead of rollers in my variator and that made a wonderful difference on my 0 to 45 acceleration, have also so far had no problems from the sliders and the same set have been in the bike since 23000 miles and I just turned 62000 miles the other day. Good luck and have a wonderful day!!😁There is something I need to add. Between 14000 mile when I bought my scoot and 20000 miles, before the clutch and variator "MODS", there was a hard knocks lesson I had to learn about CVT transmissions on my scoot in particular. High speeds mixed with extremely hot outside air temps will absolutely destroy even a new drive belt. My experience is if outside air temps are 90 degrees F do not spend any amount of time over 70 mph or you will cook and shred the drive belt. High speeds, over 70 mph, and hot and humid outside air temps of + 90 degrees F are a no no. But running on 2 lane roads at 55 or 60 mph all day long will do absolutely no harm at all even in 100 degree temps. Good luck folks!!
Thank you for this video. It's good to know how to solve the problem in case I'll encounter it. Can you tell me what's the difference is with the new suspension on the back, I saw that it is the Pro Fender, and I'm thinking of replacing my stock suspension, also, but I'm looking for an upgrade. I saw that ISS is also an option, but I don't know too many details. Thank you. You're doing a great job helping the ADV 350 owners 😊
The main difference is the adjustability. I'm going touring later this week and I'll be carrying a lot of weight on the back - If I have the suspension too soft, the back end squats down and it increases the chance of a 'tank slapper' if the steering is too unloaded. If it's just you on the bike then there's no real need to upgrade things but..... I did notice that the back wheel steps out a bit on cornering with the original suspension, this could be because I'm only 72kg but the new suspension stops it completely when the preload and rebound are adjusted.
With regards to YSS Vs Pro Fender...... it was purely a price thing. I needed to drop my suspension by 40mm and the Pro Fender was 2,000 baht cheaper than the equivalent YSS.
@Vortecks Thank you for your response, I will look forward to the YSS suspension. From what I know, the Pro Fender is not available in Europe.
I saw on the Lazada app that they have an upgrade for the fork, also. It looks like better springs for the front suspension, but I really don't know if it makes a significant difference. Thank you again. I wish you all the best!
Well done! Sometimes a bit of scaffolding pole can help get bolts undone.
It wasn't a case of torque limitation but an inability to lock things against the torque - 10 years ago, this wouldn't have been a problem but now that we're in an era of impact guns, it is.
When fixing a scooter or anything at the side of the road in Thailand you are meant to do the Thai crouch.
Unfortunately most farangs are to fat and end up falling over.
Luckily, I haven't needed to do any repairs at the roadside so I haven't needed to do the Thai crouch but I know what you mean ;)
Ah.. you're sharp as a tack good prognosis ....your sorted. Good vid for many people to follow and remember...well done! Your 99% was correct...was enjoyable
When I looked at the bell housing and how blue it was, I suspected that it was warped and I ordered a new one in case. I decided to clean it up first but I did have to change it the other day when it got really bad.
Nice work, shame you don't have a little shed/ carport to be your mini workshop ! But never stop these types of vidsTony- the trips are great n all - but these are the jewels !
I have access to a massive workshop mate but it's not equipped with tools that I specifically need. In the next ADV video, I'll eat humble pie and explain why I had to change the bell housing.
Tony, for the 'dust' use tinned air, followed by 'gunk' cleaning spray. That said, *altern8tive* has covered what is wrong. 😕 Stay happy and free (we're not back here 🙄) 😎🖖
Tinned air over here is pretty asthmatic mate, I tried it. Gunk is something that isn't used because kerosene or petrol does the same job - things that aren't used, aren't generally sold and Thai people are VERY resourceful.
In the UK, there's a different chemical for every need but over here, it's whatever is available - WD40 switch cleaner has many purposes because it's readily available and it works.
The western world would be lost if half of the manufacturers suddenly disappeared but over here, we wouldn't notice a difference - this is like the 80's where we used common sense and whatever was available 😁👍
Hello, I wanted to ask how was the vibration on the handle bar? Mine was quite bad after 10-15 min ride my hand start to feel the pain. Tried puppy grip, heavier bar end weight and tighten the handlebar but it doesnt help... Feels like giving up the bike
If you're feeling vibrations when you're riding around, it sounds to me like you have a stuck friction pad in your clutch. If I were you, I'd look for a clutch kit and replace the inner mechanism.
The vibrations you're getting aren't the same as the ones I get, my problem is due to a warped clutch bell housing, your problem is due to a faulty friction pad.
perfect. I have the same scoot and will tell u that u gotta do this, including the air filter replacement, every 3 - 5000km max. Or ur local Honda guy will do it all for about B600 :-) cant beat that. good vid m8
Cheers buddy, I appreciate that.
I ended up replacing the bell housing the other day because it got so bad. When I did this video, I ordered an OEM one because I knew it wasn't right.
I've never owned a scooter so I've got a lot to learn but now I've dismantled it and I know how things work, maintenance should be easy.
I also changed the weights for some 19g ones and it's completely transformed it - the acceleration is amazing now but the top-end is reduced by 10-15kmh (which I'm not bothered about). It should also reduce the heat on the clutch because the RPM has increased, reducing friction.
A build up of clutch lining material as the clutch beds in...Now its bedded in, dust build should be slower....I was surprised the little impact gun worked TBH....Take care Tony M8....😏😀👍🇬🇧
Cheers buddy, I hope the UK isn't as bad as the things I've seen recently.
The bell housing is f***** mate, it finally went really bad the other day. I took it to Honda and they said that it's normal but then they admitted that Honda worldwide cannot admit to a manufacturing defect because of repercussions. They said that it's a very widespread problem and they told me to buy a new housing (which cost me £14 delivered). They offered to fit it for me but I did it myself.
The new housing is fitted and it's back to how it was when I bought it. It looks like the bell housing is a consumable part and it should be replaced at around 8,000km (5,000 miles) along with the friction shoes and possibly the variator - total cost is around £45 which is acceptable.
@@Vortecks Well, at least it's cheap. It's a design defect. Insufficient centrifugal pressure as the clutch takes up the drive and slips....Basically, it's too small in diameter or the bob weight springs are too strong....I used to design machinery....lol....🤔😏😏🇬🇧
It’s the dust in in the clutch bell
Very informative, well done!
Oh boy, that clutch bell is toasted.. sometimes when bell got this much overheated it can warp, and cause more problems with the clutch.. Second clue that the cvt system is overheating is black residue from the belt on the variator. CVT cover has some filter on it, if you use the bike on a dusty road, you should inspect that filter more often, to provide enough cooling in the cvt... For parts cleaning you can use brake cleaner to make it a bit easier ... Cheers! :)
Cheers buddy, I appreciate the input. Yes, it's totally toast but I really don't know why, it's only done 7,000km and it hasn't really been abused, just average riding.
I never took it to the Honda dealer because I've read countless reports saying that this is normal wear and tear and the bell housing is a consumable item.
@@Vortecks Did you inspect the foam filter in the CVT cover ( it is in the first plastic cover with 4 bolts which you remove on top of the CVT case, serial no 19414-K1B-T00) ? For example, if you ride the scooter on a gravel for 7 days, that filter will be shut with the dust, and overheat the CVT immediately.. When you removed your air filter, it didn't look good either.. You should clean your CVT filter weekly, or replace it with more breathable custom made, or remove it completely... Good luck :)
I don’t know how many km you drove after this maintenance. I did the same, helped just for next 150 km
It was probably around 150km before it went wrong again. I ended up changing the bell housing but it seems like it's happening again.
Someone (he says he's a mechanic) said to clean and grease the friction shoe pivots which I'm going to do very shortly.
I have replaced the clutch bell with one from Malossi. 70 km still running smoothly. My adv is 13000 km old, but this juddering follows me from 1000 km
@@kosten My question to you is....... The Malossi clutches are quite expensive, do you think it is worth the price? I've been thinking about the Malossi kit for a while now but I don't know anyone who has actually fitted one.
@@Vortecks actually, if the clutch kit will solve the problem, I’m ready to replace the clutch too. Many mechanics say the source of the problem is the variator dish. But the aftermarket variators are technically the same devices. J.Costa is a little bit different, but I saw the reviews with negative feedbacks
Fixed it good job
Not really mate, it got really bad a few days later and I ended up replacing it. I think I wiped the newness off it by mistake.
Well done Tony good job and your looking happy 😁😁😁😁 thanks for the video 😊
Cheers Phil and yes, I'm happy when I'm here mate 😁👍
Hi! Please help.
Is forza 350 and adv 350 clutch the same? Due to tax in Turkey, Forza 250 comes with a 3-piece clutch set and remains small. I'm thinking of replacing it with an Adv 350 clutch set.
As far as I know, they're identical. The clutch bell housing that I replaced in the end was also listed as a Forza 350 clutch bell housing.
Well done 👍
hey bud ,you did have the wrong undys on ,but it worked out . good on you
I was also wearing trainer socks to stop being bitten on the ankles. In hindsight, I think these were the wrong colour :(
Bell housing looks like it's severely overheated - temperature discoloration. If it's warped it may cause premature wear or damage to the clutch and if warped possible return of the juddering maybe
I can't decide if I love or hate it when someone beats me to it. 🤔🙄 😎🖖
Blue colour is an indicator of temperature. It's not severely overheated. The clutch bell will get hot, it's normal...😏🇬🇧
@@daved4547sorry 👊
@@EnglishTurbinesbut maybe not for the distance this bike has done. Clutch slip after 20-30,000 km seems more applicable, or possibly it's the hapazzard stop/go environment of the local roads 🤷♂️
@@altern8tive All clutches have an element of slip. This is what makes them heat up. The Clutch bell is fairly low mass, lightweight which is why it is showing the telltale blue colour. Blue isn't very hot, as I said before....😳🇬🇧
Hi...I saw a video of this a few weeks ago as you it's in my list of potential purchases... and a guy done a video of it and he cleaned out all the gubbins from that casing after striping down. Wallah...it fixed his too l dont know what it is but from some wear in that casing...I will try find it.
Thanks, John. Sadly, the vibration is back and Honda have said that it's normal and I have to ride it harder to stop it juddering on acceleration. I've bought a new clutch bell for £18 so we'll see if it fixes it. Not happy after 3,700 miles but I knew there was a problem by the blue colouring - it's a sign that it's warped.
Yes, I saw the blueing that doesn't look right. I saw vid guy doing it and 2 yrs old. I emailed link. It is also under Honda warranty still, that's hopefully be covered. Worth a try. But you are same me I would want to get to bottom of it. Tho only done bike strip downs...the drive belts ..auto...all new to me. I would still push Honda under warranty as not old at all and low klm.🤔
Defective clutch shoe of adv350. Forza350 which uses the same parts as this model also has the same symptoms.
You're the second one to point this out, thank you!
Well done mate nice job.
In a future video, I'll eat humble pie and explain why I ended up replacing the bell housing :(
Three days ago I was on my Honda ADV clutch propeller deformed and my engine block slipped, it must be a serial error because the supplier told me that they sold quite a few of these clutch propellers last year. I am very disappointed with the Honda, as the engine is only two years old and has 17,000km on it. Such mistakes never happened so early on older scooters
It is a shame that Honda haven't addressed the problem and they refuse to accept that there's a design flaw. The Malossi clutch kit is praised everywhere so there's definitely room for improvement.
Φίλε, τι λάδι βάζησ στο συμπλέκτη??
Χωρίς λάδι. Υπάρχει μια μικρή ποσότητα λίπους στα σημεία περιστροφής στα παπούτσια του συμπλέκτη, αλλά αυτό είναι όλο.
Can't see what is model of your !red! Makita. DTW?
As you've probably already gathered, it's a DTW190 but it's definitely fake.
@@Vortecks I didn't so nice you replied. Some time ago I bought me DTW152...and it was stolen on building site.Now I have DTW700 to screw in my car and my little helper TD111.
BTW - red and other colors are available in Japan.
TONY 👍 your sure it wernt your arris ? 😂
It could have been, I'm not really sure of anything anymore mate 🤣
Brother The clutch is not original stuck clutch it has been changed to racing clutch because original clutch is silver not blue
The blue clutch bell housing is the original one from the factory.
Unfortunately, Honda is well aware of this problem, but they seem to have absolutely no intention of improving it. Many adv 350 users are using other parts due to this problem.
I think I'll investigate further into what other parts I can use. I know Malossi make a superb alternative but they're rather expensive over here.
Please use your tools in the right way. Jesus.
You have the tool in your hand and you dont use it on your clutch. 😅
You can use your vario blocker tool for your clutch.
A few weeks ago, I tried every way possible and the nut would not come off, this was my only option.
Same problem i have knocking or taping sound only cold start so is it harmfull? I cantvdo what you do
Stupid question but are you sure it's the clutch area?
A tapping sound when cold might be a sign of worn piston rings or little-end bearing. A knocking sound might be a sign of big-end bearing or crank bearing wear.
Does the sound disappear when the clutch has engaged?
Yes, it only does it when I give gas for the first time when it's cold, it doesn't do it again after the wheel moves. Even if I stop it while it's hot, when I start it again and give gas, I don't hear that sound. Actually my bad its not taping its juddering sound comes from variator area
put the nut wrench leveled then step on it, done.