Thank you so much for the instruction!!! This is exactly what I need! I have a wall switch controlled duplex outlet under the kitchen sink (where the disposal plugs to), but now I want to install a under sink RO system which absolutely needs half of the duplex outlet be always on.
Dame here! I should have done the electrical switch conversion BEFORE making the RO installation and its plumbing. Now I'll probably have to nearly undo most of the plumbing to access the outlet to isolate one of the duplex switches. Never figure it was originally installed as both halves of the duplex outlet as switched. "Measure twice, cut once" seems to come to Mind here! Just installed it earlier today. Will be redoing it this afternoon. ;-(
Really liking the different videos on DIY electrical. Are you planning to show how to remove a switch from an existing circuit? I have a switch that I no longer want to have in the circuit and I’m trying to figure out the safest way to remove it.
@@handydadtv I assumed it would be that easy, but wanted to see if anyone knew if that was the safest way to do it. There are other switches downstream in the circuit, but they are outside. This one is inside the house and I’d rather that be always on and just have the outside switches do their thing. Thanks!
This is awesome! I have an outlet my TV is connected to but is controlled by a switch. Would love to keep power supplied to the TV so we stop accidentally turning it off with the switch.
I followed the instructions on your video and it worked perfectly, thank you! The outlet in question is for disposal/dishwasher. The disposal is the switched one obviously. The switch is located just to the left of the sink in a 2 gang box. The other switch is for a light above the sink. I'm sheet rocking the wall in a week. How do I wire this? your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Great video and thank you for your help.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 That's the scenario in my livingroom , all the outlets are switched. Can you do a video explaining how to leave the outlets hot and rewire the switch for a ceiling lamp.
It depends how the switch is wired. You need to have a neutral at the switch box if you want to reuse it for a light. Otherwise you need to wire the light from the outlet. I’ll put it on my to-do list.
I have two black, two white, and two red coming from a previously half switched outlet. I upgraded all outlets (different color) and now both outlets are hot all the time. The tab is broken on the right side, but intact on left. The two red wires connect to the same right upper screw. The two black wires connect to the same right lower screw. The two whites connect to separate screws on left. How do I get this back to a half switched outlet?
thanks for making the video, condo built in 1974 most outlets are wired to a switch for the top outlet, I get how the hot side wired to POLES on my new outlet, can I wire all FOUR white wires to a WAGO and then OUT to ONE pole on the other side of outlet, ALL old wires are backstabbed to OLD outlet.
You DO have a video on this! ha ha. This is exactly the scenario I have - power going into receptacle box, feeding another set of boxes, and a switch to operate half of the receptacle. BUT, difference is the wire from the switch to the receptacle box is 14/2, not 14/3 like you have here. 14/3 isn't needed though. The neutral wire from the switch acts as a hot and is attached to the hot side of the receptacle and the half you attach it to will be the half that is switched.
Thank you very much! I replaced a broken outlet in the living room and the outlet worked, but the wall switch no longer turned it on/off. I didn't know about breaking the tab. But, can you tell me why their is also a breakable tab on the other side of the outlet, between the silver screws? When would one snap this one off? Thanks!
Hi, thanks for your videos - very helpful! I am reaching out because I am trying to convert the double outlet under my kitchen sink into a half hot outlet (currently both operated by switch), but when I took off the cover I found only one black wire, a ground, and neutral. Is it possible to convert this to half hot or is the one black/live wire here only connected to the switch? Is there any fix I can do or would this require re-wiring the circuit all together? Thank you in advance!
You know our energy bills are going to treble in October here in the UK. Any advice on gas or electricity equipment that can help keep our bills reasonable.. Cheers 👍🏻
I installed an Emporia Vue to help me identify where my electricity goes. HVAC is number 1. My EV is number 2. th-cam.com/video/wnhNvfKy2rI/w-d-xo.html
Can you do a video of how to convert a receptacle that’s controlled by a switch to always be hot, and then make the existing switch to control overhead recessed lights (using the existing wiring that was in place for the switch and the switch receptacle. Does that make sense? Thank you
Hi I'm wondering if anyway to use existing 14/2 wires to connect outlet to add a switch, as you said old days was done. I'm replacing a cover controller garbage disposal to switch control. All the walls are covered with backslash tiles. So noway to make a new box for it. Thanks.
Only if the feeder wire to the outlet comes from that existing switch box. That’s a long shot. It’s easiest to add a switch inside the cabinet under the sink. That’s how my new construction home was wired. I just open the door to turn on the disposal.
Can you half an outlet to two separate wall scones? I only have 1 outlet behind my bed where I would like 2 lamps on either side. Would you also split the neutral side for each one? And what about the copper? If this isn’t possible how do you suggest to diy this where I can hide the wires in the wall and still use both lamps with the one outlet?
Are these hard-wired sconces or plug-in? Assuming hard-wired, I would use round old work boxes for the sconces. I would run a line from your existing outlet to one of the sconce boxes then from that box to the other. Wires would be hidden in the wall. If you have an attic or basement, it might be easier to run the wires straight up or down so you don’t need to cross any studs and repair the drywall.
Good job! You can’t always trust that white is neutral so it’s good you verified. If your white wire is hot and connected to the switch, then you probably don’t have a neutral wire in that box so you won’t be able to add another switch for the light.
Nice helpful video, I have a question I'm adding an outlet below a three way switch, I killed power removed all wires off switch spread them apart. Then I put power back on and seen what black wire was hot, I found the hot one killed power again. Now thinking the hot wire I found, was the one I was bringing down to new outlet, I put a pigtail on it, also adding black wire that goes down to new outlet, I hooked up black pigtail to 3 way switch, where it was originally connected. My problem is when I put power on, with either one of the two, 3 way light switch in the off position the out let is hot, when I turn on either switch the out losers power. Im using the outlet for a night light at the top of the stairs. And I want the outlet to be hot all the time if possible. Thank you, your help would be appreciated. If I could make that work
Watch this to learn how 3-way circuits are wired: th-cam.com/video/M_zDt6iJKdQ/w-d-xo.html You can only add an outlet from the switch where power enters the circuit. Probably at the one farthest from the light (bottom of the stairs).
@@handydadtv thank you for getting back to me, if I open up the furthest switch at the bottom of the steps, is it wired different then the upper switch. I'll check out video, also thank you
I have wall switch that was controlling two wall plugs (which it should not). I follow the instructions exactly: red wire to top (brass), white pigtail to top left (silver), black pigtail to bottom (brass), other white wires (2) to connectors, other black wires (2) to connector, so 3 total (including pigtail) in the connectors, connected ground to green screw. Removed brass tab. Now, the top outlet works with the switch, the bottom outlet is dead, regardless of the switch. The outlet downstream is dead, regardless of the switch. What have I done wrong? Mine looks like yours.
Okay I have something similar to this. I have a new build home and we have a half hot plug in each room, I was dumb and didn't add wafer lights in the 2 spare rooms so I had to do it myself. The light switch in the two spare rooms controls the outlet on one wall in each room, the outlets are on exterior walls so I do not want to have to snake 14-2 wire through that to get the power and would rather use the light switch. The light switch in question had a 14-3 so R B W. the switch had red wire and black wire on different poles on a one pull switch and the whites were tied together. The halo puck light has two wires, white and black, I ran the wire through the attic to the switch and how do i wire the switch up then? From Halo light Black wire to the red on switch and tie the white neutral to the others? or From Halo light black to black on switch, cut red and terminate it? I'm just confused
All grounds and neutrals will be connected together. Including from the Halo. You need a voltage tester to verify this: I’m assuming the black wire is always hot and the red wire is only hot when the switch is on. It probably goes to your switched outlet. So I would join the black and red and a pigtail to one screw on the switch. Then connect the Halo black to the other screw on the switch.
It looks like I only have 3 wires. 1 hot, 1 Neutral, 1 ground. I don't have a red one from the switch, so because I only have 1 hot, controlled by the switch am I unable to create the half hot receptacle?
I realized the switch was connected to the existing outlet. Can I do the same layout so that the switch would be used on the new outlet instead of the existing one
Hi, I changed 4 power outlets and one light toggle switch from old alabaster color to white and followed the exact wiring hook ups, now the toggle switch does not turn the shade lamp when plugged into the lower power outlet anymore. where did I go wrong with the wiring? can you advice?
Why woild it be that i hooked up new duplex outlet but only one has power the upper one doesnt? the switch doesn't even work i broken the center tab as well tho i see that one of the brass screws has two black wires going to it & red wire to the top & having two neutral wires attached to the silver screws,on another switched outlet in same room has constant power but the switch doesn't work on that duplex either there was a neutral wire that was connected to one of the brass screws which doesn't seem right im to the point of gettíng an electrician out to figure this out one ekectrician wants 325$ just yo look at everything anothere wants 39.95 for service call which seems reasonable but have no idea what costs will be.
It’s too hard to follow and troubleshoot in writing. The best I can say is, you need to use a voltage tester to figure it out. I wouldn’t give up. Keep trying until you figure it out. Then, if you still can’t figure it out, call a handyman. You don’t need to pay a licensed electrician’s rates.
Why didn't you just connect the red wire to the top outlet screw by it's self there was no need to use a pig tail with a black wire using a connector with a red wire -
I’m putting in 5 outlets n the garage and I want to make them all wrk off a switch for the lights but leave one hot on each outlet, do I break that tab on all of the receptacles or is this a bad idea?
@@handydadtv The Receptacles are on the joist and the lights( hanging work lights)will plug into them but I want to be able to plug into an outlet without the lights being on in the day time! Kinda get what I’m saying? Not sure if I’m explaining it correctly!
@@handydadtv not really complicated. I have 2 receptacles in the ceiling of my garage. I need one always on for the garage door opener and the other 3 switched for LED plug in shop light. Those 2 receptacles are the only things on that circuit.
Again, this depends on how you wire it. Connect the switched lead to the downstream outlets if you want them switched. If that doesn’t make sense, call an electrician.
Exactly what I needed to see to get a new electrical line run for a garbage disposal and dishwasher. Thank you so much for sharing!
Good move. Those appliances should have a dedicated circuit.
Thank you. I couldn’t figure this one out. It all make sense after watching the video
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you so much for the instruction!!! This is exactly what I need! I have a wall switch controlled duplex outlet under the kitchen sink (where the disposal plugs to), but now I want to install a under sink RO system which absolutely needs half of the duplex outlet be always on.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I'm in the EXACT same boat and I'm about to do the same thing. Awesome instructions. Also, I need to upgrade from wire nuts to those Wago connectors.
@phosphor112 👍🏻
Dame here! I should have done the electrical switch conversion BEFORE making the RO installation and its plumbing. Now I'll probably have to nearly undo most of the plumbing to access the outlet to isolate one of the duplex switches. Never figure it was originally installed as both halves of the duplex outlet as switched. "Measure twice, cut once" seems to come to
Mind here! Just installed it earlier today. Will be redoing it this afternoon. ;-(
Excellent follow up video to the previous one about wiring a switch to one or two outlets! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video! New house and every switch outlet is wired this way. Makes much more sense
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
You are a really good teacher. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
My pleasure
Really liking the different videos on DIY electrical. Are you planning to show how to remove a switch from an existing circuit? I have a switch that I no longer want to have in the circuit and I’m trying to figure out the safest way to remove it.
Assuming you want it ON all the time, just remove the switch and connect both of the switch wires with a wire nut. Then cover it with a blank plate.
@@handydadtv I assumed it would be that easy, but wanted to see if anyone knew if that was the safest way to do it. There are other switches downstream in the circuit, but they are outside. This one is inside the house and I’d rather that be always on and just have the outside switches do their thing. Thanks!
Great video!
Thanks so much 😊
Thank you sir for your time I learned a lot with your videos I appreciate
My pleasure!
Great video for DIY. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
absolutely thank you so much. Saves me some head scratching
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This is awesome! I have an outlet my TV is connected to but is controlled by a switch. Would love to keep power supplied to the TV so we stop accidentally turning it off with the switch.
Depends how it’s wired. Open the outlet and see if you have at least two cables. One with constant power.
I followed the instructions on your video and it worked perfectly, thank you! The outlet in question is for disposal/dishwasher. The disposal is the switched one obviously. The switch is located just to the left of the sink in a 2 gang box. The other switch is for a light above the sink. I'm sheet rocking the wall in a week. How do I wire this? your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
How do you wire what? The light?
The video I needed. I need to run one for my garbage disposal. When the other outlet is plugged in for my dishwasher.
Splitting the outlets isn’t possible if it’s a GFCI outlet. If it’s not, check that it’s on a GFCI breaker.
Thanks Dude.
I had a guy convert the half hot switch to control an added ceiling fan. He left half the outlet without power.
And you fixed it?
Great video and thank you for your help.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 That's the scenario in my livingroom , all the outlets are switched. Can you do a video explaining how to leave the outlets hot and rewire the switch for a ceiling lamp.
It depends how the switch is wired. You need to have a neutral at the switch box if you want to reuse it for a light. Otherwise you need to wire the light from the outlet.
I’ll put it on my to-do list.
I would like this too :)
I have two black, two white, and two red coming from a previously half switched outlet. I upgraded all outlets (different color) and now both outlets are hot all the time. The tab is broken on the right side, but intact on left. The two red wires connect to the same right upper screw. The two black wires connect to the same right lower screw. The two whites connect to separate screws on left. How do
I get this back to a half switched outlet?
Impossible for me to tell. You need to use a voltmeter to figure out where each of those wires goes.
Thx
My pleasure!
thanks for making the video, condo built in 1974 most outlets are wired to a switch for the top outlet, I get how the hot side wired to POLES on my new outlet, can I wire all FOUR white wires to a WAGO and then OUT to ONE pole on the other side of outlet, ALL old wires are backstabbed to OLD outlet.
Yes. You only switch the hot lead, so all the neutrals can be connected to a Wago with a pigtail going to the silver screw.
Don’t use backstabs.
Thank you so much for your help good job 🇵🇹🇨🇦🛠👍
My pleasure
You DO have a video on this! ha ha. This is exactly the scenario I have - power going into receptacle box, feeding another set of boxes, and a switch to operate half of the receptacle. BUT, difference is the wire from the switch to the receptacle box is 14/2, not 14/3 like you have here. 14/3 isn't needed though. The neutral wire from the switch acts as a hot and is attached to the hot side of the receptacle and the half you attach it to will be the half that is switched.
Just wrap electrical tape around the white wire to let the next guy know that it’s not a neutral.
@@handydadtvyep! Definitely going to do that when I tackle this. Thanks!
Thank you very much! I replaced a broken outlet in the living room and the outlet worked, but the wall switch no longer turned it on/off. I didn't know about breaking the tab. But, can you tell me why their is also a breakable tab on the other side of the outlet, between the silver screws? When would one snap this one off? Thanks!
The neutral side would only be broken if they are on two separate circuits (very rare).
Thanks
My pleasure
Hi, thanks for your videos - very helpful! I am reaching out because I am trying to convert the double outlet under my kitchen sink into a half hot outlet (currently both operated by switch), but when I took off the cover I found only one black wire, a ground, and neutral. Is it possible to convert this to half hot or is the one black/live wire here only connected to the switch? Is there any fix I can do or would this require re-wiring the circuit all together? Thank you in advance!
You need to run a 3-conductor wire between the double switch and the outlet.
You know our energy bills are going to treble in October here in the UK.
Any advice on gas or electricity equipment that can help keep our bills reasonable..
Cheers 👍🏻
I installed an Emporia Vue to help me identify where my electricity goes. HVAC is number 1. My EV is number 2. th-cam.com/video/wnhNvfKy2rI/w-d-xo.html
Can you do a video of how to convert a receptacle that’s controlled by a switch to always be hot, and then make the existing switch to control overhead recessed lights (using the existing wiring that was in place for the switch and the switch receptacle. Does that make sense?
Thank you
That’s a rare situation but I’ll put it on my to-do list.
Hi
I'm wondering if anyway to use existing 14/2 wires to connect outlet to add a switch, as you said old days was done. I'm replacing a cover controller garbage disposal to switch control. All the walls are covered with backslash tiles. So noway to make a new box for it.
Thanks.
Only if the feeder wire to the outlet comes from that existing switch box. That’s a long shot.
It’s easiest to add a switch inside the cabinet under the sink. That’s how my new construction home was wired. I just open the door to turn on the disposal.
Can you half an outlet to two separate wall scones? I only have 1 outlet behind my bed where I would like 2 lamps on either side. Would you also split the neutral side for each one? And what about the copper? If this isn’t possible how do you suggest to diy this where I can hide the wires in the wall and still use both lamps with the one outlet?
ps; the wall sconces have their own on/off switches and I wouldn’t need it to connect to a switch
Are these hard-wired sconces or plug-in?
Assuming hard-wired, I would use round old work boxes for the sconces.
I would run a line from your existing outlet to one of the sconce boxes then from that box to the other. Wires would be hidden in the wall. If you have an attic or basement, it might be easier to run the wires straight up or down so you don’t need to cross any studs and repair the drywall.
Do you have TH-cam for adding light switch to outlet switch? I detect power from white wire not from black wire from floor outlet switch.
Good job! You can’t always trust that white is neutral so it’s good you verified.
If your white wire is hot and connected to the switch, then you probably don’t have a neutral wire in that box so you won’t be able to add another switch for the light.
How would you install or (wire) a duplex starting at the bottom of a patio 4x4 then in the middle a switch to a light fixture at the top?
All need outdoor enclosures and GFCI protection. Use UF wire in plastic conduit.
Nice helpful video, I have a question I'm adding an outlet below a three way switch, I killed power removed all wires off switch spread them apart. Then I put power back on and seen what black wire was hot, I found the hot one killed power again. Now thinking the hot wire I found, was the one I was bringing down to new outlet, I put a pigtail on it, also adding black wire that goes down to new outlet, I hooked up black pigtail to 3 way switch, where it was originally connected. My problem is when I put power on, with either one of the two, 3 way light switch in the off position the out let is hot, when I turn on either switch the out losers power. Im using the outlet for a night light at the top of the stairs. And I want the outlet to be hot all the time if possible. Thank you, your help would be appreciated. If I could make that work
Watch this to learn how 3-way circuits are wired: th-cam.com/video/M_zDt6iJKdQ/w-d-xo.html
You can only add an outlet from the switch where power enters the circuit. Probably at the one farthest from the light (bottom of the stairs).
@@handydadtv thank you for getting back to me, if I open up the furthest switch at the bottom of the steps, is it wired different then the upper switch. I'll check out video, also thank you
I have wall switch that was controlling two wall plugs (which it should not). I follow the instructions exactly: red wire to top (brass), white pigtail to top left (silver), black pigtail to bottom (brass), other white wires (2) to connectors, other black wires (2) to connector, so 3 total (including pigtail) in the connectors, connected ground to green screw. Removed brass tab. Now, the top outlet works with the switch, the bottom outlet is dead, regardless of the switch. The outlet downstream is dead, regardless of the switch.
What have I done wrong? Mine looks like yours.
You can’t go by how it looks. You need a voltage tester to troubleshoot. You either have an open hot or open neutral.
Yeah, I followed the black until I found a loose wire. So I did it right! Thanks for your time and this video.@@handydadtv
@user-pe9jh1be7r Good job!
How can this method be applied using GFCI outlet?
You can’t switch half a GFCI.
Okay I have something similar to this. I have a new build home and we have a half hot plug in each room, I was dumb and didn't add wafer lights in the 2 spare rooms so I had to do it myself. The light switch in the two spare rooms controls the outlet on one wall in each room, the outlets are on exterior walls so I do not want to have to snake 14-2 wire through that to get the power and would rather use the light switch. The light switch in question had a 14-3 so R B W. the switch had red wire and black wire on different poles on a one pull switch and the whites were tied together. The halo puck light has two wires, white and black, I ran the wire through the attic to the switch and how do i wire the switch up then?
From Halo light Black wire to the red on switch and tie the white neutral to the others?
or
From Halo light black to black on switch, cut red and terminate it?
I'm just confused
All grounds and neutrals will be connected together. Including from the Halo.
You need a voltage tester to verify this:
I’m assuming the black wire is always hot and the red wire is only hot when the switch is on. It probably goes to your switched outlet.
So I would join the black and red and a pigtail to one screw on the switch. Then connect the Halo black to the other screw on the switch.
@@handydadtv I went home that night and did that before I saw this and that was it
Do you have a 14-3 going to the switch? It's not clear.
Why do I need a neutral in every switchbox?
th-cam.com/video/yoYf4ctZToA/w-d-xo.html
It looks like I only have 3 wires. 1 hot, 1 Neutral, 1 ground. I don't have a red one from the switch, so because I only have 1 hot, controlled by the switch am I unable to create the half hot receptacle?
That’s correct. You’d need to run another conductor between the switch and the outlet.
Where is the hot to the switch coming from?
All power is fed from the main electric panel.
I realized the switch was connected to the existing outlet. Can I do the same layout so that the switch would be used on the new outlet instead of the existing one
Yes
Hi, I changed 4 power outlets and one light toggle switch from old alabaster color to white and followed the exact wiring hook ups, now the toggle switch does not turn the shade lamp when plugged into the lower power outlet anymore. where did I go wrong with the wiring? can you advice?
Sounds like you forgot to remove the shunt between the brass screws on the outlet.
can you please show or explain in a layman's terms? Thank you, I am a Rookie when it comes to eletrical stuff, but learning @@handydadtv
Watch this video again closely because I did explain this. The shunt is the little metal connecting tab between the brass screws.
Why woild it be that i hooked up new duplex outlet but only one has power the upper one doesnt? the switch doesn't even work i broken the center tab as well tho i see that one of the brass screws has two black wires going to it & red wire to the top & having two neutral wires attached to the silver screws,on another switched outlet in same room has constant power but the switch doesn't work on that duplex either there was a neutral wire that was connected to one of the brass screws which doesn't seem right im to the point of gettíng an electrician out to figure this out one ekectrician wants 325$ just yo look at everything anothere wants 39.95 for service call which seems reasonable but have no idea what costs will be.
It’s too hard to follow and troubleshoot in writing. The best I can say is, you need to use a voltage tester to figure it out. I wouldn’t give up. Keep trying until you figure it out.
Then, if you still can’t figure it out, call a handyman. You don’t need to pay a licensed electrician’s rates.
Why didn't you just connect the red wire to the top outlet screw by it's self
there was no need to use a pig tail with a black wire using a connector
with a red wire -
No reason. You can do that.
I’m putting in 5 outlets n the garage and I want to make them all wrk off a switch for the lights but leave one hot on each outlet, do I break that tab on all of the receptacles or is this a bad idea?
Why do you need to switch all those outlets? You have five lights with plugs?
I would just install switched outlets on the ceiling.
@@handydadtv The Receptacles are on the joist and the lights( hanging work lights)will plug into them but I want to be able to plug into an outlet without the lights being on in the day time! Kinda get what I’m saying? Not sure if I’m explaining it correctly!
You can certainly wire it so every receptacle has a switched side and an always-on side.
@@handydadtv That’s the answer I was looking for! Now, do I have to break both tabs on the sides or just one of them!
Just the hot side.
What does this do to the outlet downstream? Is that always on or switched?
You can choose how to wire it. In my example, the downstream outlet is not switched.
@@handydadtv how can I make the downstream receptacle switched?
I’m guessing your situation is more complicated than what I’ve shown. So I really recommend you call an electrician to help.
@@handydadtv not really complicated. I have 2 receptacles in the ceiling of my garage. I need one always on for the garage door opener and the other 3 switched for LED plug in shop light. Those 2 receptacles are the only things on that circuit.
Again, this depends on how you wire it. Connect the switched lead to the downstream outlets if you want them switched. If that doesn’t make sense, call an electrician.