My display blew up today. However, it wasn't when I was riding it. Was adding a new rotor to a 5000w stealth bomber and had to disconnect the back wheel. After I connected everything I tried to turn the bike on and it was okay. Hit the light to see if it would turn on and got nothing. Hit my horn which is on the same remote and BOOM. I hear a pop and my display turns off. Looked like a small amount of smoke on the inside of the screen. Haven't been able to get the bike working since. Very smart checking the controller and battery to see if that could also be the issue. If you ever hear a pop from your display I expect it will be fried and would need to be replaced. Appreciate the upload and trouble shooting info/experience 🤙
Certainly it pays to have spare parts, the process of elimination of swapping parts out until the problem shows itself is so valuable for problem solving .
This problem happened to me and i found out its was cause by reg braking. If the power is too much when regen it will back fire into the display first frying the display. Ive gone thru 3 display before figuring it out. Now i leave regen off
@@E-bikeguy no problem i wish i did a video on it on my channel but i forgot. but thank u for making one to raise awareness. 2:25 please where can i order auto start wire from the control directly like in your video. ill love to have that just incase my display cuts out on me in the middle of no where
Regen braking by itself cant create a voltage spike enough to destroy the display or controller. The spike only occurs when you regen into a dead ended circuit, such as circuit breaker that tripped or a bms that closed the port. I would guess the main problem is your battery, and your BMS is trying to keep you from igniting it, lol. The controller has a setting that determines when regen is allowed. If you have that set too high and also regen set high, and a weak battery that can’t absorb the power that fast, then as soon as one cell gets to 4.23v the BMM closes the port and voltage spikes. Since the controller cant talk to the BMS, it can only set max pack voltage for regen to work, which for 72v battery might be 82v (if battery is big enough and cells are matched). But if it drifted out of balance then at 82v (which should be 4.10v per brick), one brick can very easily surge to 4.23v and the BMS will close the port at the worst time possible, during peak regen. For your situation you can do many things at zero cost: 1. balance your battery. This should happen each time you charge it to 100% and leave it on the charger a few hours after the light turns green, but if you let it get too far out of balance the charger/bms can never perform balance maintenance. 2. Reduce the max voltage regen is allowed. 3. Reduce regen amps. This will reduce the voltage surge that lets a high resistance brick go up so high it trips. If your battery is undersized or an improperly assembled Aliexpress battery then it Will create huge cell imbalance under load and regen. Just repairing the series buses like E-bike Guy did can fix it. The ONLY time regen should be totally off is when its too cold outside and and the battery will get destroyed with regen.
Oh shit brother ..my ukc1 is not turning on and for me to run the bike i have to keep my thumb on pressing down the power botton...😂😂 I need to that trick that u did to turn on my sabvoton until my new Display grts home...😂👍🏻👊🏻🙏🏻
Within the display its most likely a transitor or capacitir that blew. You can take it apart and resolder on a new one. Resistors do blow but not as often. Most times you can clearly see which component it is that blew. Did you ever get that display to work again?
@@roostenb it snaps into place. Use a box cutter and gently pry it apart following the seem. Observe as you do for any tabs to push back. If some brake, it's not a big deal, it's plastic and super glue will do the trick on any broken pieces. Put the blade on the seem and twist the box cutter side by side for leverage. But as I said be gentle.
Its ok my 45A sabvoton has never worked with the UKC1 bought another display and controller exactly the same vise versa very odd considering one came packaged with the display
@E-bikeguy can you tell me where I can source that little loop bypass thing you used and what it connects to. My display just died on me I am sure it's the display but have no way to bypass and no spare but I've seen your video and seems could be same that happen to me. I rode in rain and when leaving work bike powered on then went to move off and bam everything shut down. Battery Bluetooth bms shows all good charger seller suringmax don't won't to hear product faulty so charge full price for replacement so I've order one from a different seller out of principle but long lead time as I am UK.
@@E-bikeguy interesting I may have to start dealings with better vendor. I found out I can make one blue to red to short it. Haven't got round to it as scared incase I zap the sab.
@@E-bikeguy so I made a cable up today and my guess was 100% correct. Exactly the same as you the display totally dead. All I can think of is I was riding in rain and water likely damage the buttons but I don't know for sure as I use regen, that being said I am pretty sure it's from the rain even though supposed to be OK in the rain! I wish there was more options for the sabvoton. Your video helped alot.
Hey buddy mine was working fine and one day i turned my bike on and the communication errors H30 came on mine for no reason so I connected the distributor and I should be getting a new one for mine it’s only 6 months old but it should be under warranty for 1 year. Don’t know why your won’t even turn on that’s strange I hope you can check to see about a replacement for yours. I really like your videos good luck I hope you can get another one. Ride safe buddy.
Thank you bro, I was riding with my buddy on his kx60 bike and it just quit on me I thought it was the battery but that was at 75v so WTF but luckily I had a extra display off of my son's ebike so I'll use it and when I build his bike I'll get his controller and display together.
Hi mate got the Same error but mine will only turns on if disconnected battry or controller and reconnect them all buttons work including the off on button but get error 30 and won't move and when I turn off I have to disconnect and reconnect again to turn screen back on
Ok, my best guess is because you have the wrong type of circuit breaker, it tripped way below 250a (because it has no way to know the amps, more on that later), and then it acted like a controller trying to regen into a BMS with closed port. This causes a spike way above what the display can handle and it can also destroy the controller, but i think your controller is a bit more robust so it survived. When i set my BMS and controller i made sure the BMS port will never close during regen, which will fry stuff. If you have bms bypass then even if the port closes you are safe, and probably it will never close since the controller has settings to prevent regen during this. As far as your circuit breaker, the problem is its 12v or 24v max, but you are running it at 72v. But but but 250a is 250a, right? Well no. Lol. Inside your circuit breaker is a bimetallic plate which heats up based on the POWER flowing through it. Since it’s designed for 24v max, 250a, it will trip at 6000 watts +/- some tolerance. They do make circuit breakers of similar style but rated for 42v 300a which would probably trip around 12,600 watts, which is about 175 amps in your system. You definitely never want your controller to trip the breaker under its rated power. You said it happened before but didn’t fry the display so perhaps in that situation it did not have a chance to enter regen before the you drained the capacitors and the controller shut down. But in this last time maybe you were going fast and already heated the bimetallic strip and then entered refen which pushed it over the edge and the breaker tripped and then regen had nowhere to go so the spike probably to 100v or higher.
@@E-bikeguy, yes, since it can’t measure amps it depends on outside temp and battery voltage and duration of peak current. Apparently this time all the planets came into alignment and it tripped. It’s better when a SMART bms with shunt can measure actual amps and shut the port, with settings that allow it high inrush current to pre-charge the capacitors so it doesn’t trip then. I think also as you upgrade motors and set the controller higher and push it harder it is reaching up into the trip point. If you took that breaker and tested it with very slowly rising current it might get to 100a and trip but sid you did fast ramp up it will trip much higher because that plate has to heat up. And it’s probably +/-10% each time you reset it. I think thats why some breakers are $10 and some are $100. In my $300 ebike the 15ah batter has a 15a BMS and a 30a fuse and the controller is 30a, so the only way the fuse can blow is if there is a major malfunction. But it doesn’t have regen so it really can’t overvoltage the display. Lol
Ok so let me ask you this do you think I need a circuit breaker? I installed it so if I had to modify the wires I can cut the power or just simply just unplug it lol
@@E-bikeguy, if you have a battery connector that’s probably just as effective since whatever AWG you run from the pack will probably continue to the controller. And if you do a AWG upgrade thats going to be after a battery upgrade and probably bigger Andersson connector. Another benefit of SMART BMS is you can close the port with your phone (provided its not bypassed). That lets you unplug and reconnect without sparks. Ideally your smart bms will be rated at the amps you need so that it doesn’t need to be bypassed and can offer all features. But if you get a deal on the cheapest bluetooth bms made then you can install it bypased and still get 90% of the features like seeing each brick voltage. Differential voltage, and protection during charging (assuming thats going through the port).
@@E-bikeguy yeah im running it without a display right now. So its always on a highest level of power. I want to some how install 3 speed switch or even 2 speed. do you think thats possible? cus its just too much torque from a dead stop
@@E-bikeguy darn. I dont think my controller supports it too. and i dont want to get another controller. haha but thanks anyways! love watching your vids man you send out great info for us.
My display blew up today. However, it wasn't when I was riding it. Was adding a new rotor to a 5000w stealth bomber and had to disconnect the back wheel. After I connected everything I tried to turn the bike on and it was okay. Hit the light to see if it would turn on and got nothing. Hit my horn which is on the same remote and BOOM. I hear a pop and my display turns off. Looked like a small amount of smoke on the inside of the screen. Haven't been able to get the bike working since. Very smart checking the controller and battery to see if that could also be the issue. If you ever hear a pop from your display I expect it will be fried and would need to be replaced. Appreciate the upload and trouble shooting info/experience 🤙
Wow sorry to hear that, mine definitely shut off on the wat to the house I thought it was the bms but it was the display
Certainly it pays to have spare parts, the process of elimination of swapping parts out until the problem shows itself is so valuable for problem solving .
Most definitely glad I had that extra display.
This problem happened to me and i found out its was cause by reg braking. If the power is too much when regen it will back fire into the display first frying the display. Ive gone thru 3 display before figuring it out. Now i leave regen off
Awl man that might be the problem for me, thank you for the info
@@E-bikeguy no problem i wish i did a video on it on my channel but i forgot. but thank u for making one to raise awareness. 2:25 please where can i order auto start wire from the control directly like in your video. ill love to have that just incase my display cuts out on me in the middle of no where
ND Ebike Factory Store
a.aliexpress.com/_m0nvzIi
Talk to vincy she will get you in the right direction, it's a display bypass wire for the sabvoton controller
Regen braking by itself cant create a voltage spike enough to destroy the display or controller. The spike only occurs when you regen into a dead ended circuit, such as circuit breaker that tripped or a bms that closed the port.
I would guess the main problem is your battery, and your BMS is trying to keep you from igniting it, lol.
The controller has a setting that determines when regen is allowed. If you have that set too high and also regen set high, and a weak battery that can’t absorb the power that fast, then as soon as one cell gets to 4.23v the BMM closes the port and voltage spikes.
Since the controller cant talk to the BMS, it can only set max pack voltage for regen to work, which for 72v battery might be 82v (if battery is big enough and cells are matched). But if it drifted out of balance then at 82v (which should be 4.10v per brick), one brick can very easily surge to 4.23v and the BMS will close the port at the worst time possible, during peak regen.
For your situation you can do many things at zero cost:
1. balance your battery. This should happen each time you charge it to 100% and leave it on the charger a few hours after the light turns green, but if you let it get too far out of balance the charger/bms can never perform balance maintenance.
2. Reduce the max voltage regen is allowed.
3. Reduce regen amps. This will reduce the voltage surge that lets a high resistance brick go up so high it trips.
If your battery is undersized or an improperly assembled Aliexpress battery then it Will create huge cell imbalance under load and regen. Just repairing the series buses like E-bike Guy did can fix it.
The ONLY time regen should be totally off is when its too cold outside and and the battery will get destroyed with regen.
Oh shit brother ..my ukc1 is not turning on and for me to run the bike i have to keep my thumb on pressing down the power botton...😂😂 I need to that trick that u did to turn on my sabvoton until my new Display grts home...😂👍🏻👊🏻🙏🏻
@kanogomez5063 oh man I'll have to see! It happened to ebikekid
I'm thinking the regen could have caused a spike on the screen
Yeah I believe it now.
Glad u solved it. I know being without bike sucks
Heck yeah, I use it to ride with my kids to school than my car lol
@E-bikeguy did u see my other post with my email to reach out see if I bring my bike up by u
@@adiamsanchezphotography no I haven't let me check now
E mail me @ theebikeguy08@gmail.com
Within the display its most likely a transitor or capacitir that blew. You can take it apart and resolder on a new one. Resistors do blow but not as often. Most times you can clearly see which component it is that blew. Did you ever get that display to work again?
I still have it, but I had a extra display so I used it but I'll open it up to see if I can fix it
How did you open it?
@@roostenb it snaps into place. Use a box cutter and gently pry it apart following the seem. Observe as you do for any tabs to push back. If some brake, it's not a big deal, it's plastic and super glue will do the trick on any broken pieces. Put the blade on the seem and twist the box cutter side by side for leverage. But as I said be gentle.
Its ok my 45A sabvoton has never worked with the UKC1 bought another display and controller exactly the same vise versa very odd considering one came packaged with the display
@E-bikeguy can you tell me where I can source that little loop bypass thing you used and what it connects to. My display just died on me I am sure it's the display but have no way to bypass and no spare but I've seen your video and seems could be same that happen to me. I rode in rain and when leaving work bike powered on then went to move off and bam everything shut down. Battery Bluetooth bms shows all good charger seller suringmax don't won't to hear product faulty so charge full price for replacement so I've order one from a different seller out of principle but long lead time as I am UK.
Well everytime I get a new controller it comes with that bypass plug
@@E-bikeguy interesting I may have to start dealings with better vendor. I found out I can make one blue to red to short it. Haven't got round to it as scared incase I zap the sab.
@Bboymoped yes put the blue and red together and the controller will come on and stay on till you disconnect the blue and red wire
@@E-bikeguy thank you 🙌
@@E-bikeguy so I made a cable up today and my guess was 100% correct. Exactly the same as you the display totally dead. All I can think of is I was riding in rain and water likely damage the buttons but I don't know for sure as I use regen, that being said I am pretty sure it's from the rain even though supposed to be OK in the rain! I wish there was more options for the sabvoton. Your video helped alot.
Smlro 1000w fat tire Amazon bike display gave out three days ago but we back up and running now sir 😎
Oh wow so this is not uncommon for display to go out.
Hey buddy mine was working fine and one day i turned my bike on and the communication errors H30 came on mine for no reason so I connected the distributor and I should be getting a new one for mine it’s only 6 months old but it should be under warranty for 1 year. Don’t know why your won’t even turn on that’s strange I hope you can check to see about a replacement for yours. I really like your videos good luck I hope you can get another one. Ride safe buddy.
Thank you bro, I was riding with my buddy on his kx60 bike and it just quit on me I thought it was the battery but that was at 75v so WTF but luckily I had a extra display off of my son's ebike so I'll use it and when I build his bike I'll get his controller and display together.
Hi mate got the Same error but mine will only turns on if disconnected battry or controller and reconnect them all buttons work including the off on button but get error 30 and won't move and when I turn off I have to disconnect and reconnect again to turn screen back on
Cool man glad you got it sorted out, nice changer!
Yes it is brother, thanks to you!!!
Ok, my best guess is because you have the wrong type of circuit breaker, it tripped way below 250a (because it has no way to know the amps, more on that later), and then it acted like a controller trying to regen into a BMS with closed port. This causes a spike way above what the display can handle and it can also destroy the controller, but i think your controller is a bit more robust so it survived.
When i set my BMS and controller i made sure the BMS port will never close during regen, which will fry stuff. If you have bms bypass then even if the port closes you are safe, and probably it will never close since the controller has settings to prevent regen during this.
As far as your circuit breaker, the problem is its 12v or 24v max, but you are running it at 72v. But but but 250a is 250a, right? Well no. Lol. Inside your circuit breaker is a bimetallic plate which heats up based on the POWER flowing through it. Since it’s designed for 24v max, 250a, it will trip at 6000 watts +/- some tolerance.
They do make circuit breakers of similar style but rated for 42v 300a which would probably trip around 12,600 watts, which is about 175 amps in your system. You definitely never want your controller to trip the breaker under its rated power.
You said it happened before but didn’t fry the display so perhaps in that situation it did not have a chance to enter regen before the you drained the capacitors and the controller shut down. But in this last time maybe you were going fast and already heated the bimetallic strip and then entered refen which pushed it over the edge and the breaker tripped and then regen had nowhere to go so the spike probably to 100v or higher.
Never thought of that but my breaker never trips I was riding really hard tho
@@E-bikeguy, yes, since it can’t measure amps it depends on outside temp and battery voltage and duration of peak current. Apparently this time all the planets came into alignment and it tripped. It’s better when a SMART bms with shunt can measure actual amps and shut the port, with settings that allow it high inrush current to pre-charge the capacitors so it doesn’t trip then.
I think also as you upgrade motors and set the controller higher and push it harder it is reaching up into the trip point.
If you took that breaker and tested it with very slowly rising current it might get to 100a and trip but sid you did fast ramp up it will trip much higher because that plate has to heat up. And it’s probably +/-10% each time you reset it. I think thats why some breakers are $10 and some are $100.
In my $300 ebike the 15ah batter has a 15a BMS and a 30a fuse and the controller is 30a, so the only way the fuse can blow is if there is a major malfunction. But it doesn’t have regen so it really can’t overvoltage the display. Lol
Ok so let me ask you this do you think I need a circuit breaker? I installed it so if I had to modify the wires I can cut the power or just simply just unplug it lol
@@E-bikeguy, if you have a battery connector that’s probably just as effective since whatever AWG you run from the pack will probably continue to the controller. And if you do a AWG upgrade thats going to be after a battery upgrade and probably bigger Andersson connector.
Another benefit of SMART BMS is you can close the port with your phone (provided its not bypassed). That lets you unplug and reconnect without sparks.
Ideally your smart bms will be rated at the amps you need so that it doesn’t need to be bypassed and can offer all features. But if you get a deal on the cheapest bluetooth bms made then you can install it bypased and still get 90% of the features like seeing each brick voltage. Differential voltage, and protection during charging (assuming thats going through the port).
This guy knows his sh... We need you
Question can I use any unbranded TFT UKC 1 display or does it have to be by NB power branded ?
Yes. But it has to be the same communication protocol
Great video as usual! What hub motor are you using
Oh yes it's the qs205 v3 50h 5000w hub motor
@@E-bikeguy so 150mm drop outs?
Yes it is.
Same thing happened with my throttle last week. I replaced it and back to riding.
Heck yeah, it was riding normal and all of a sudden, no power
With the ukc1 diss play can u limit amps like too 20a until ai get a diff bms for my batt
Ok I didn't know. That's good to know
mr. e-ebikeguy do you know how to run a nb power controller without display but still able to hook up to a 3speed module
Not a 3 speed switch but can run a nb power controller without a display
@@E-bikeguy yeah im running it without a display right now. So its always on a highest level of power. I want to some how install 3 speed switch or even 2 speed. do you think thats possible? cus its just too much torque from a dead stop
@KILOALXE on some controller you can but I know the one I have do not support a 3 speed switch
@@E-bikeguy darn. I dont think my controller supports it too. and i dont want to get another controller. haha but thanks anyways! love watching your vids man you send out great info for us.
@KILOALXE ok sorry for that, th3 fardriver controller do support 3 speed functions, but thank you💯💪🏿
2:25 please where can i get one
Did you get the link I sent you?
My ulcer-1 display woks . But doesn’t show’s me mph rotation and speed
У меня такая же проблема, вы ее решили ?
you need a separate battery for the display😑
This happened to me today, wtffffff