I was a signwriter for 30 years, have lettered and gilded most surfaces including guitars. In this instance you did everything correct except the stencil was cut from the wrong material. The vinyl mask softened from the cellulose content in the spray can, that is all that happened. In the future make sure you get a sign company to make the stencils from Applimask vinyl.
john anderson ...100% agree. Not to mention, I’ve found that the StewMac black lacquer aerosol doesn’t cure as hard as custom mixed black lacquer sprayed from a gun. Found out the hard way.
Yes have it cut from clear transfer film but to be honest I now buy vinyl stickers cover them in CA glue sand level and clear over the lot they then look like perfect inlays but for that particular finish one would use those techniques .Having said that he true test of any trades person is the ability to rectify a cock up as we all make mistakes
@@Iazzaboyce you can try here. www.idealstencils.co.uk/ Tell them you need a frisket for a guitar headstock logo and provide them with an HD outline of said logo. Then give them the size needed for width and height. They should be able to make what you need with that.
I love watching you work, Dan... I could watch and all day live stream of you working on an instrument, and I'd be totally at peace. And learn a ton of tips along the way.
Hugh-John Fleming Friskets were used years ago in photographic retouching primarily in art studios. Let's say a photo of a car needed to have the background removed. The artist would cover the car in a frisket, thin tissue coated with a thin layer of rubber cement, cut around the car shape and either bleach out the background or use opaque paint to cover it.
I think he was sweating bullets when that happened. I know I would have been with the paint all fresh and all. I have this stuff called"Goo Be Gone" it is an orange oil extract the softens sticker goo without hurting painted surfaces. It might have worked as well. Naphtha would have given me a pucker factor to deal with but it obviously worked on lacquer without smearing it. Nice to know thanks Dan for that!
I'd love to have Dan as my neighbour. The kind where your wife calls his house to ask when you'll come home. Nice work. If it was too shiny, it wouldn't fit to the 50ies Guitar. White would've looked nice too.
I'm starting my own repair company in southern Oregon thanks to your teachings and I want to say thanks for being an inspiration to me! I watch your videos more than anything else.
Hows business going? I'm in Ohio and just started a set up and repair shop. Going ok for just starting out but the thing that amazes me is all the people willing to pay me $20 to change strings on their guitars. Not complaining, just really shocked at the level of knowledge of a lot of guitar players concerning the most basic aspects of maintenance.
Mr. Erlewine you're a living legend! I just bought your book and have been watching all of your videos. They've given me the confidence to tackle things I'd otherwise have brought into the guitar shop. Thank you immensely.
Thank you for not editing that part out somehow and/or not scrapping the video entirely. That's just the type of random stuff that people run into, so it's nice to see it happen to a professional and also to see what their solution is. 👍🤙🤘
I have airbrushed motorcycles for awhile, ya just need to ask for a low tack backing, trust me, been there, did it. Very nice save btw and beautiful work.
Something else i was thinking about, i know these 2 tricks sound crazy. But they work, try it on a practice piece. If you want to be able to move that stencil around for positioning, you can mix water and some liquid soap, spray it on back. Try it. 1 more thing, if ya end up getting high tack masking tape, you can lay it across your jeans first , then use it. I know, crazy, but i learned the hard way. Keep up the beautiful work. As a matter of fact, i have a 1908 gibson goard back that needs restored, a 1964 harmony and a 1967 gibson LG, that needs done.
Cool video Dan. Next time try a hair dryer on the frisket just before removing it. It may make it more easy to not leave adhesive or might make it worst or might make it easier to wipe off too. It might be worth a try. I use a hair dryer to remove the self stick sandpaper on my sanders and it really helps when they are cold and haven't been used in a while. Just a thought.
I really nice to see accidents like the residue happen on camera because it just goes to show anyone can make a mistake.. a lot of people doing creative and restorative jobs get really beat up over making a mistake, so to see someone I admire make mistakes is really reassuring. Thanks :)
You may have thought this was dog of a video but what better lesson than showing us how repairs actually go-fraught with the unknown and unplanned for. We need more videos like these as failures are the greatest teachers we ever encounter.
Thanks Dan! I have a good friend made me a frisket at his print shop. It was laser cut from a piece of black vinyl w/ adhesive backing. I added a thin film of soapy water to get it placed properly and it came off w/ no residue after I did the squeegy with an old credit card and wiped dry w/ dry cloth. Turned out good as new. :)
A spray painter I know always takes off the masking when the paint is still wet, that way it is still elastic and as it dries and relaxes you won't rick a tear in the paint layer. It can be messy though. Nice work here.
"Frisket" is just a term for stencil material used by artists. Originally frisket was just clear sheets of adhesive film that we used to cut with a knife. Once cut it's still a "stencil" Now there are all sorts of vinyl materials that can be cut by a plotter. There is also liquid frisket which is a liquid latex used a lot by water color artists to block off paint and keep the original paper surface. We use other liquid mask products for various pin stripe and effects in a negative process. Lay out striping, cover with liquid mask, remove striping or stencil and once the mask dries you have a negative space to paint where your original vinyl was. I've been using the Oramask 810, a transparent gray, for at least the last 10 years. I've used it professionally for doing vehicle graphics, interior decorating and just about hundreds of other projects. It's great stuff. I've recently run into the same adhesive problem with more traditional art applications. I was not in a position to use naphtha or any other solvent, so I sprinkled some talc or cornstarch on it and gently rubbed it off in circular motions with my finger. The adhesive picked up the powder and gently came off. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Oracal after that and they were only marginally helpful. With 100+ yards of 24" wide product I was pretty upset that I nearly ruined a painting I had already spent a solid month on. Their solution is their 810S product. 810, 811 and 813 are all water based adhesive products that break down. 810S has a solvent based adhesive and will not break down from off-gassing. It is the off-gassing that causes the breakdown and with lacquer finishes there isn't much to do to prevent it as lacquer off-gasses for a pretty long time. Also the adhesive isn't the only factor in not getting bleed. All adhesive stencils are capable of bleeding. There is an old trick to use to ensure your stencil doesn't bleed. Before you spray your final color first give it a light coat of either your base coat color or a clear (especially when you don't have a solid base color like on a flame top). This preliminary coat causes a seal at the edge of the stencil and substrate that you won't see if it does bleed. Now spray your gold, or desired color and it will be a perfectly sharp match to your stencil.
The tip is to stick the transfer onto your hand first a few times to lessen the adhesive qualities. It has more than enough to stay there for the painting but will release much easier.
Good finished job! Thanks for showing what CAN go wrong. That was a learning moment for all of us and I suspect many people would have not put it in the video. 👍
When the frisket starts to leave some residue the best way I found is to heat the frisket with a hairdyer. It will soften the "tack" and when you peal it off it won't stick to the job -> no residue.
Nice work! That goo scared me for a minute. lol. I learned the hard way from painting motorcycle gas tanks, that lacquer is the only paint I've found in a rattle can that won't come off if you happen to spill some gasoline on it.
Next time you might try lamp oil to get the residue off. Works great on plastics and other smooth materials so it might work on lacquered wood as well.
I use Avery Dennison SF 100 Paint Mask Stencil Film, White or Yellow. The reason the stencil left the residue is because it didn’t have enough time for the black base to cure. The gas were still coming out and it attacked the glue adhesive on the stencil. Spray can paints need at least 3-4 weeks to cure out and for the gasses to escape. 🙏🏻
I don't know why... But Dan reminds me of one of my old coworker buddies - such a cool dude! Played the guitar like a bad ass and was always super knowledgeable bout DIY guitar things lol! Miss that guy a lot! Hope that hes doing well lol!
I did it exactly the same way on an Epiphone without knowing it was the way they did it in factories. It turned out well, with no residues from the stencil.
A pure oil, like the oil the trumpet player (that's what I use because its around) use for the valve our maybe even WD40, ist really effective and save for almost every surface to remove residue from tape and stickers. Also the ones they use for the price tags. Always if the ethanol or Naphtha doesn't work or can't be used it saves me and never failed! Also works for the white Edding paint stick.Try it out you can't harm anything and the oil is easy to remove with diluted ethanol.
I made the mistake of laying down the gold BEFORE the clear. The clear sort of ate away at the gold and made the letters look much thinner than when they were first sprayed on.
Hi Dan, you guys are great! I just ordered some stuff from you guys to restore my 1975 Les Paul. One thing I want to do is remove and restore the peghead veneer but it shure would be very helpful if you can make a video about it. One of the most common repairs with older Gibson if I believe the internet. :) Can you make such a video? :)
i use orasmask 813 blue see thorgh stencil vinyl itfor water based paints but ive used everthing from enamel to 2 part automotive clear. it comes off ion pieces it makes the massk soft but its cheaper than all the other stuff out and some peple have used cabnet liner it will leave sticky resaduer behind. i have never had an issue with oramask 813.
Dan, it would be interesting to test "cure times" of the clear and the frisket. Does leaving the clear alone to dry for several days produce a better result when using the frisket? Perhaps there is a chemical interaction between the adhesive in the frisket and the clear coat is what I am getting at. Love your videos!
The issue Dan encountered resulted from leaving the frisket adhered to the peghead for a little too long. The lacquer off-gasses a solvent that reacted with the adhesive, causing it to stick to the peghead rather than easily peel away with the frisket as intended. Lacquer does take a while to finish off-gassing and fully cure. However, it seems more likely that this issue was a result of the solvents off-gassing from the freshly sprayed metallic gold rather than the clear gloss.
We have been in the sign business for almost 70 years and never had that issue. That is NOT the type of mask that you want. Having seen that mess I would never ever use that brand of mask. We have been cutting mask and spraying signs before there were computers (we cut the mask by hand before) and we never had anything like that happen in 10 minutes. Actually, we never had anything like that happen.
Doesn't matter what kind of frisket paper was used. The lacquer solvents gassing off reacted with and softened the adhesive on the frisket paper causing it leave behind that goo.
“Lint your tape”, and it won’t leave an adhesive residue. Before applying tape stick it to your shirt, the tape will pick up small fibers from your shirt, making it much earlier to remove.
Great Job! I am wondering if you could kindly share with me what type of silver paint is used on a black Gibson USA Les Paul Standard hardshell case? The lettering has begun to fade slightly from normal usage, and I’d really love to touch it back up a bit. Do you happen to know the exact color silver they use by any chance? Or, do you sell this silver Gibson logo guitar case paint on your website? Thanks.
Looks great ! But how did he get the copy shop to scan the logo and cut the frisket ? In my experiences they usually refuse to work with copyrighted or brand named items.
Maybe next time StewMac, try using a hairdryer on your stencil just gently to soften up the glue, works a treat usually when trying to remove tape without leaving residue. Love your channel, thanks for amazing content :)
Just make picture and load into Adobe Photoshop, cut it out and copy/paste it to Illustrator. In Illustrator choose “trace image” which converts it to SVG or vector. Than make it as big as you like and send it to an online printer.
Here's tip from me - use a HAIR DRYER to soften the glue on that frisket paper. You could've used computer printer paper with 3M spray adhesive and gotten the same results! It's better to soften your glue when doing this on delicater finishes, and around decals.
This guy always does everything textbook perfect, by the book, with all the right tools
I was a signwriter for 30 years, have lettered and gilded most surfaces including guitars. In this instance you did everything correct except the stencil was cut from the wrong material. The vinyl mask softened from the cellulose content in the spray can, that is all that happened. In the future make sure you get a sign company to make the stencils from Applimask vinyl.
john anderson ...100% agree. Not to mention, I’ve found that the StewMac black lacquer aerosol doesn’t cure as hard as custom mixed black lacquer sprayed from a gun. Found out the hard way.
Yes have it cut from clear transfer film but to be honest I now buy vinyl stickers cover them in CA glue sand level and clear over the lot they then look like perfect inlays but for that particular finish one would use those techniques .Having said that he true test of any trades person is the ability to rectify a cock up as we all make mistakes
Ya , spray cans are junk,
With very few exceptions.
Alsa is one.
@dbltrplx I have a 1970s Maton guitar that needs this procedure. Where do I go to get a frisket made up and what do I ask for? I'm in the UK.
@@Iazzaboyce you can try here.
www.idealstencils.co.uk/
Tell them you need a frisket for a guitar headstock logo and provide them with an HD outline of said logo. Then give them the size needed for width and height. They should be able to make what you need with that.
1:49 " I'm gonna put the body in a garbage bag " :D
giray akby HEY NOW
Like all Gibsons deserve to be, in the trash
...not old gibsons thou!
@Jimmy Durex Not my fault they make shit.
Imagine being this mad because someone made fun of a guitar brand you like
1:55 "Luthiers Garbage Bags 59.99"
Joakim L I wonder if that luthiers garbage bag is a Stew Mac product? And I think you have the price correct.
Comment of the year! Lol!!!
Joakim L Lol Hahaha
King Brilliant and you only get 10
XD
This guy is TOO cool. Really dig the vids!
I love watching you work, Dan... I could watch and all day live stream of you working on an instrument, and I'd be totally at peace. And learn a ton of tips along the way.
Without having seen a moment of this presentation I confess I tuned in just to learn what a "frisket" is.
Hugh-John Fleming Friskets were used years ago in photographic retouching primarily in art studios. Let's say a photo of a car needed to have the background removed. The artist would cover the car in a frisket, thin tissue coated with a thin layer of rubber cement, cut around the car shape and either bleach out the background or use opaque paint to cover it.
They're used with silk-screening.
It's basically pre-computerized photoshop.
Basically it's just a stencil.
I tuned in because I thought he said 'biscuit'...?! :o(
Thank you so much for showing the mistake and the recovery. It's incredibly reassuring to see a guy like you go through that process.
I think he was sweating bullets when that happened. I know I would have been with the paint all fresh and all. I have this stuff called"Goo Be Gone" it is an orange oil extract the softens sticker goo without hurting painted surfaces. It might have worked as well. Naphtha would have given me a pucker factor to deal with but it obviously worked on lacquer without smearing it. Nice to know thanks Dan for that!
I use that as well and it works great!
Yup. goo Gone has saved many a players guitar finish in this town! Ha!
We now know that Dan is human. haha
I'd love to have Dan as my neighbour. The kind where your wife calls his house to ask when you'll come home.
Nice work. If it was too shiny, it wouldn't fit to the 50ies Guitar.
White would've looked nice too.
Glad you kept filming, even with the residue. Fixing problems is one the reasons I like this channel so much. Cheers!
I'm starting my own repair company in southern Oregon thanks to your teachings and I want to say thanks for being an inspiration to me! I watch your videos more than anything else.
Hows business going? I'm in Ohio and just started a set up and repair shop. Going ok for just starting out but the thing that amazes me is all the people willing to pay me $20 to change strings on their guitars. Not complaining, just really shocked at the level of knowledge of a lot of guitar players concerning the most basic aspects of maintenance.
Mr. Erlewine you're a living legend! I just bought your book and have been watching all of your videos. They've given me the confidence to tackle things I'd otherwise have brought into the guitar shop. Thank you immensely.
Thank you for not editing that part out somehow and/or not scrapping the video entirely. That's just the type of random stuff that people run into, so it's nice to see it happen to a professional and also to see what their solution is. 👍🤙🤘
I love the Gibson logo and once the residue came off that looked sooo good.
I have airbrushed motorcycles for awhile, ya just need to ask for a low tack backing, trust me, been there, did it. Very nice save btw and beautiful work.
Something else i was thinking about, i know these 2 tricks sound crazy. But they work, try it on a practice piece. If you want to be able to move that stencil around for positioning, you can mix water and some liquid soap, spray it on back. Try it. 1 more thing, if ya end up getting high tack masking tape, you can lay it across your jeans first , then use it. I know, crazy, but i learned the hard way. Keep up the beautiful work. As a matter of fact, i have a 1908 gibson goard back that needs restored, a 1964 harmony and a 1967 gibson LG, that needs done.
That is very cool Dan. Thanks for the tip.
Cool video Dan. Next time try a hair dryer on the frisket just before removing it. It may make it more easy to not leave adhesive or might make it worst or might make it easier to wipe off too. It might be worth a try. I use a hair dryer to remove the self stick sandpaper on my sanders and it really helps when they are cold and haven't been used in a while. Just a thought.
Jason Adams I think a hairdryer on the frisco would have made it come off easier, good idea.
I really nice to see accidents like the residue happen on camera because it just goes to show anyone can make a mistake.. a lot of people doing creative and restorative jobs get really beat up over making a mistake, so to see someone I admire make mistakes is really reassuring. Thanks :)
Bestine Rubber Cement Solvent is my preferred solvent over naphtha to remove adhesive residue. Great video, Dan.
Technical skill and an artists touch.
Oh yeah amazing job dan is te master luthier of vintage guitars. Its my dream to meet you.
Great to see Dan still doing what he does best...
should have kept the J-45 from the 50s I had and see if Dan could have made it playable again...
Yet another awesome video from Dan the man. I would have cleared over it because of my OCD.
First thing I thought too. Sure seems like a little scrape might take some of that sweet logo off if it isn’t protected.
Clip on tuner ⁉️
I like watching this guy work
You may have thought this was dog of a video but what better lesson than showing us how repairs actually go-fraught with the unknown and unplanned for. We need more videos like these as failures are the greatest teachers we ever encounter.
Always a great lesson from Dan.I watch every one of your videos. Never disappointed.
Thanks Dan! I have a good friend made me a frisket at his print shop. It was laser cut from a piece of black vinyl w/ adhesive backing. I added a thin film of soapy water to get it placed properly and it came off w/ no residue after I did the squeegy with an old credit card and wiped dry w/ dry cloth. Turned out good as new. :)
EXCELLENT! Love the real take on that video... got my heart rate up when you were peeling the vinyl from around the lettering!
Cool under pressure, nice job Dan!
Excellent as always, Dan!
Non immagini quanta stima ho di te Dan. Sei il migliore.
I could watch Dan all day long. Sometimes, I do. Thanks for the wonderful videos.
A spray painter I know always takes off the masking when the paint is still wet, that way it is still elastic and as it dries and relaxes you won't rick a tear in the paint layer. It can be messy though. Nice work here.
I tend to dry rub my friskets and smoke them at 225° for 10-12 hours.........wait.
Lol
"Frisket" is just a term for stencil material used by artists. Originally frisket was just clear sheets of adhesive film that we used to cut with a knife. Once cut it's still a "stencil" Now there are all sorts of vinyl materials that can be cut by a plotter. There is also liquid frisket which is a liquid latex used a lot by water color artists to block off paint and keep the original paper surface. We use other liquid mask products for various pin stripe and effects in a negative process. Lay out striping, cover with liquid mask, remove striping or stencil and once the mask dries you have a negative space to paint where your original vinyl was. I've been using the Oramask 810, a transparent gray, for at least the last 10 years. I've used it professionally for doing vehicle graphics, interior decorating and just about hundreds of other projects. It's great stuff. I've recently run into the same adhesive problem with more traditional art applications. I was not in a position to use naphtha or any other solvent, so I sprinkled some talc or cornstarch on it and gently rubbed it off in circular motions with my finger. The adhesive picked up the powder and gently came off. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Oracal after that and they were only marginally helpful. With 100+ yards of 24" wide product I was pretty upset that I nearly ruined a painting I had already spent a solid month on. Their solution is their 810S product. 810, 811 and 813 are all water based adhesive products that break down. 810S has a solvent based adhesive and will not break down from off-gassing. It is the off-gassing that causes the breakdown and with lacquer finishes there isn't much to do to prevent it as lacquer off-gasses for a pretty long time. Also the adhesive isn't the only factor in not getting bleed. All adhesive stencils are capable of bleeding. There is an old trick to use to ensure your stencil doesn't bleed. Before you spray your final color first give it a light coat of either your base coat color or a clear (especially when you don't have a solid base color like on a flame top). This preliminary coat causes a seal at the edge of the stencil and substrate that you won't see if it does bleed. Now spray your gold, or desired color and it will be a perfectly sharp match to your stencil.
Thank G-D for people like you. Very nice. I fear that your talent, cultivated over a lifetime, is lost on today's youth. All the best to you.
The tip is to stick the transfer onto your hand first a few times to lessen the adhesive qualities. It has more than enough to stay there for the painting but will release much easier.
Good finished job! Thanks for showing what CAN go wrong. That was a learning moment for all of us and I suspect many people would have not put it in the video. 👍
When the frisket starts to leave some residue the best way I found is to heat the frisket with a hairdyer. It will soften the "tack" and when you peal it off it won't stick to the job -> no residue.
Golly jeez. Making it look easy. ..great job Dan!
I'm glad i'm not the only one who "sanded through a third coat" haha even the mighty Dan Erlewine did it. Great vid :)
Great looking vintage repair.
Great video Dan. I have your book & I have learned a lot of neat tricks I didn't think of before. Thanks for the inspiration!!.
Nice work! That goo scared me for a minute. lol. I learned the hard way from painting motorcycle gas tanks, that lacquer is the only paint I've found in a rattle can that won't come off if you happen to spill some gasoline on it.
Beautiful guitar
This man reminds me of my grandfather thanks so much for the help just subbed
That turned out excellent. Too kool. God bless
man you are incredible. I'm learning too much watching these videos
Next time you might try lamp oil to get the residue off. Works great on plastics and other smooth materials so it might work on lacquered wood as well.
Amazing that Dan doesn't have a spray booth, considering how much refinishing work he's done over the years.
It's good to see that you are mortal. I enjoy your work and your videos; always get something .
I really enjoy watching your very informative videos Mr Macdonald.
I use Avery Dennison SF 100 Paint Mask Stencil Film, White or Yellow. The reason the stencil left the residue is because it didn’t have enough time for the black base to cure. The gas were still coming out and it attacked the glue adhesive on the stencil. Spray can paints need at least 3-4 weeks to cure out and for the gasses to escape. 🙏🏻
*June 2019* How do you remove your Gibson Logo?
I think it was painted over
just tape it over ;)
paint it with black
It comes right off when the headstock snaps.
"Man we lucked out!" Go, Danny - go... Awsome :-) Wish you were 3 miles down the road from me - I'd give you *all* my guitars to fix up!!
Awesome job. It came up perfect. I’d be too scared that the spray might bleed under the stencil.
Really amazed by the knowledge of this man !! Incredible
This guy is awesome! Great job as always!
Looks fantastic, if a jobs going south...i want you at the wheel!! Great vid!
I don't know why... But Dan reminds me of one of my old coworker buddies - such a cool dude! Played the guitar like a bad ass and was always super knowledgeable bout DIY guitar things lol! Miss that guy a lot! Hope that hes doing well lol!
This guy is awesome! Love his videos.
If you wax the head stock before the brisket it'll help with the residue. Clean the spray area after wax before painting
I did it exactly the same way on an Epiphone without knowing it was the way they did it in factories. It turned out well, with no residues from the stencil.
A pure oil, like the oil the trumpet player (that's what I use because its around) use for the valve our maybe even WD40, ist really effective and save for almost every surface to remove residue from tape and stickers. Also the ones they use for the price tags. Always if the ethanol or Naphtha doesn't work or can't be used it saves me and never failed! Also works for the white Edding paint stick.Try it out you can't harm anything and the oil is easy to remove with diluted ethanol.
Amazing work
Dan you’re awesome!
Can you like a video more than once? This was awesome!!!
I made the mistake of laying down the gold BEFORE the clear. The clear sort of ate away at the gold and made the letters look much thinner than when they were first sprayed on.
Hi Dan, you guys are great! I just ordered some stuff from you guys to restore my 1975 Les Paul. One thing I want to do is remove and restore the peghead veneer but it shure would be very helpful if you can make a video about it. One of the most common repairs with older Gibson if I believe the internet. :) Can you make such a video? :)
As always, insightful and I would clearcoat !
I have a lot of your useful items.
Can these be shipped to 🇬🇧
i use orasmask 813 blue see thorgh stencil vinyl itfor water based paints but ive used everthing from enamel to 2 part automotive clear. it comes off ion pieces it makes the massk soft but its cheaper than all the other stuff out and some peple have used cabnet liner it will leave sticky resaduer behind. i have never had an issue with oramask 813.
“I’m gonna put the body in a garbage bag”... 1:50 best comment ever! 😊
Great video!! Love these Dan. Thx
So...anybody know of any online resources where we can get one of these friskets made?
"Go, Danny, go." Agreed. And keep on going.
Great job but we need to see the full finished guitar.
Awesome Job!
Dan, have you ever tried cooking oil to dissolve glue residue? Wouldn't need to worry about it dissolving anything else but the glue.
Dan, it would be interesting to test "cure times" of the clear and the frisket. Does leaving the clear alone to dry for several days produce a better result when using the frisket? Perhaps there is a chemical interaction between the adhesive in the frisket and the clear coat is what I am getting at. Love your videos!
The issue Dan encountered resulted from leaving the frisket adhered to the peghead for a little too long. The lacquer off-gasses a solvent that reacted with the adhesive, causing it to stick to the peghead rather than easily peel away with the frisket as intended. Lacquer does take a while to finish off-gassing and fully cure. However, it seems more likely that this issue was a result of the solvents off-gassing from the freshly sprayed metallic gold rather than the clear gloss.
You are done and you are great. You probably worked in industry for very long time...replicating original logo is a task off skill.. Impressed..
I wonder if you hit the frisket with warm air from a hair dryer for a few seconds before removing it if it would not leave all the glue behind.
We have been in the sign business for almost 70 years and never had that issue. That is NOT the type of mask that you want. Having seen that mess I would never ever use that brand of mask. We have been cutting mask and spraying signs before there were computers (we cut the mask by hand before) and we never had anything like that happen in 10 minutes. Actually, we never had anything like that happen.
Chill dude. It was the lacquer in the spray can that gelled up the backing. No big deal. All good
I love the o'l script logo
Hey Dan, Looks great. You would never know it is not factory.
Maybe if you were blind.
Doesn't matter what kind of frisket paper was used. The lacquer solvents gassing off reacted with and softened the adhesive on the frisket paper causing it leave behind that goo.
Dan Erlewine: Still the best!
“Lint your tape”, and it won’t leave an adhesive residue. Before applying tape stick it to your shirt, the tape will pick up small fibers from your shirt, making it much earlier to remove.
Great idea!
Dude you are the man
You were great man, yes it is!!
The decal reacted to the paint ,that's why there was residue speed is your friend
Use a low tack vinyl for the stencilling. Doesn’t ever leave a residue.
That was a cool video!
Is there a video showing the prep work before this stage?
Great Job! I am wondering if you could kindly share with me what type of silver paint is used on a black Gibson USA Les Paul Standard hardshell case?
The lettering has begun to fade slightly from normal usage, and I’d really love to touch it back up a bit. Do you happen to know the exact color silver they use by any chance? Or, do you sell this silver Gibson logo guitar case paint on your website? Thanks.
:O) Nice to see you make a mistake!!! Makes my mistakes feel less bothersome and less fatal....Great recovery by the way.
Looks great ! But how did he get the copy shop to scan the logo and cut the frisket ? In my experiences they usually refuse to work with copyrighted or brand named items.
Maybe next time StewMac, try using a hairdryer on your stencil just gently to soften up the glue, works a treat usually when trying to remove tape without leaving residue. Love your channel, thanks for amazing content :)
I always tack masking tape onto my hand remove some of the sticky before using it to mask so it is easier to remove,
Just make picture and load into Adobe Photoshop, cut it out and copy/paste it to Illustrator. In Illustrator choose “trace image” which converts it to SVG or vector. Than make it as big as you like and send it to an online printer.
Best regard from japan
God bless
Here's tip from me - use a HAIR DRYER to soften the glue on that frisket paper. You could've used computer printer paper with 3M spray adhesive and gotten the same results! It's better to soften your glue when doing this on delicater finishes, and around decals.