I purchased the laguna 1412 with the 1.75 hp motor. It's my first band saw ever and it is great I wired it 220 to get full use of power. The one thing I didn't like is the guides. I installed a set of carter guides last Friday and what a Saw this is now. I would recommend them for sure. Love your videos very helpful thank you from Alaska at grampas Wood shop..ps. resaw King rocks
Great thorough review! I've had the 2.5HP for a year now. I have very mixed feelings about it and at this point I wish I had the Harvey Alpha. I had issues with the table not staying flat where the split is and had to go through a bunch of trouble to get that right. The trunnion system is crap and doesn't hold well so it easily goes out of 90, especially if you loosen it to make an angled cut and put it back. The flaw is all the play/slop in the trunnion. The throat plate is junk and trying to get or keep that perfectly flush is a challenge. The fence was humped and I had to call to get a replacement that still wasn't perfectly flat but was much better. The aluminum extrusion is just a piece of junk and as you showed if you put pressure against the backside during a cut it will flex - so use a on/off magnetic block on the backside to secure that like another viewer stated. The fence system as a whole is junk. Overall they put such little money into the fence system that in my opinion it's just cheap crap. I have mixed feelings about the ceramic blade guides. It too just feels really cheap, I'm not sure how long those ceramics will last. For now it's fine but every time I look at it I wish I had better. Like all bandsaws, blade changes are time consuming and you quickly find out why shops end up with at least two. One stays setup for resaw and the the other one(s) setup with whatever blades are good for the curve cuts. My experience with their customer service wasn't great. The things I like about the saw. The 2.5HP motor is great. The foot brake is great. The mag on/off switch is good. Dust collection is acceptable. If I were to do it over, I would have purchased the Harvey Alpha. Yes it's more expensive but it addresses most of the issues I have with the saw. I don't have one though, so maybe it has its own set of issues, but the fit and finish look way better.
Hi, for the dust collector if the OD is 4” try a short piece of PVC. Make a double female slit the ends and use a band clamp on each end to make is tight fit.
For the brush, I chiseled out the hex nut so the recess into the brush. Then thread in the back one first and if you have a ratcheting wrench it was feasible, then followed by the front one
With your lower blade guide, you can move the knob to the other side of the block assembly on the other threaded hole. It does remove a bit of your table tilt, but its much easier to get at.
You can move that knob under the table by flipping it 90 degrees as there’s a hole facing the front. So you won’t need to tighten the screw with your fingers the way you did. Or tilt the table up and then adjust. While you’re at it unscrew that screw and move it to the front. There’s a hole if you’re look there so the screw won’t be in the back but the front. Cheers. I just got mine yesterday.
Great review! For the fence issue at the where it might move under load while cutting, try using one of those small heavy duty square magnets with and ON/OFF switch right up against the back of the fence so it doesn’t move. Works great for cheap table saw fences too!
Seems like a dewalt track saw clamp might work to help lock down the back end of the fence. Definitely enough information for a purchase if looking for a saw in that range. Thanks again.
I have the same problem with my kreg fence only locking on the front. If I'm cutting something where it can cause me problems I stick a clamp on the table behind the fence to support it. Sucks to have to take the extra step, but it works well.
nice review. I have taken Alex Snodgrass' tip on Removing the Table to adjust the lower guides. Although it is a feat of strength, dexterity and constitution to manipulate that badboy around the blade...it is the lesser of the 2 evils than getting sausagefingers and bananahands underneath to adjust those lower guides.
Thanks for a thorough review. I love the brake. Not a fan of the fence. If I had this saw, I would replace the two vertical adjustment set screws with pieces of brass shim stock the full length of the black part. For support of the end of the fence, consider using a magswitch or magnetic featherboard. I have designed and 3D printed zero clearance inserts for my Grizzly bandsaw and a few local wood working friends. These are easy to reprint when the slot gets too wide from the blade movement during cutting. If you give me dimensions of your insert I will be happy to design and print an insert or give you the STL file if you want someone to print this locally. I agree changing blades is a hassle. Dave.
I haven't adjusted the fence in years and it's still square to the table, much to my surprise. I know someone with a 3d printer, that's an interesting idea. This is one of the things I love about managing a TH-cam channel.
Great review. I appreciate the depth to which you described the setup. That bandsaw is $1800 now. That seems like a lot of money to have to do all the fine tuning you did.
Agreed this is a great saw. Most saws this size and larger do not have anything like the power this one does. Once setup it stays totally accurate is extremely quiet and vibration free. My previous startrite 401s 🇬🇧 was forever stalling when resawing, resulting in me usually kicking something hard! I say the only negative for me is the optional wheel kit. Don't bother, its crap! There are much better ones with 4 wheels not 3.
Incredibly helpful video, really appreciate you posting this. I just received this bandsaw yesterday and this video takes all the mystery out of it's use.
To solve the 4" Dust Port to 2 1/4" problem, Rockler sells a 4" ID Rubber Union Item# 46301. They also sell the 4'' T-Connector Collection Fitting for connecting the Top and bottom ports together item # 88501.
That could work. I ended up taking a slightly different approach, shown around 26:40. I did a quick overview of the parts and process here: th-cam.com/video/iFvZIpgHA7I/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for a really good video. One thing I am glad you bought up was Laguna's customer service. It has not been that long ago they had really bad customer service. I am glad they have improved it. I am going to get a new BS and the 14BX is what I have been looking at the most.
I've heard other people say their customer service was bad, which I thought was surprising. I wonder how much of that was a side effect of doing business during a pandemic. My experience was from three years ago, so I can only speak to that.
@@TheSnekkerShow I bought one of Laguna's lathes and trouble with it and didn't want to do anything about it. I bought the lathe from Woodcraft and took it back to them. The lady at Woodcraft was really mad. All this happened before the pandemic. I traded the Laguna lathe for a Jet and I was happy.
@@hawkeye10100 Woodcraft is a franchise and doesn't like returns. I bought a Laguna carbide-tipped blade online from Woodcraft that had a crack in the weld. The guy at Woodcraft complained, but I called Laguna and they sent me a replacement.
Laguna customer service seems good now. I bought their C Flux dust collector and had issues with the remote not connecting. They were right on it and sent me a new remote pronto.
I’m planning to buy one after using a Delta 14” for the past 20 years. I sold my contractors saw 3-4 years ago and don’t miss it at all because a good bandsaw is far more versatile. A buddy bought one 2 years ago and loves it. I’ve found it is a bit cheaper to buy 8/8 lumber and re-saw 4/4 and 6/4 out of it, plus grain matching is much easier and locally available slabs have fantastic grain. The latest price of $1999.99 sucks but I’ll recoup about $300 selling the Delta. That will buy 2 re-saw blades😂.
Great review. I’ve been looking for a new bandsaw and this model in particular. I walked into my local Woodcraft today to look around and they had one all setup. There is no place in the last year that’s had one for me to look at. I bought it on the spot and will pick it up tomorrow.
I've been drooling over that exact bandsaw for a couple of years.... $2640 in AU One day.... Thanks for posting . I'm sure you have seen Alex Snodgrass's vids ?
Hey Snekker, love the channel, thanks for the great content. I noticed a silver screw on the brush housing that looked like it would release the whole piece allowing you to tighten the brush screws then reinstall, but I could be wrong as I'm looking at it on a computer screen.
Put laguna re saw blade on my $200 craigslist ridgid 14 with riser kit and it rips 12" maple no problem!!! Glad I went cheap route before pulling the trigger on an expensive bandsaw!! Can't imagine any project where I would need anything else!
Have the same saw and the 3/4" Resaw King blade. My biggest problem with set up was getting the back of the blade square to the table. It was leaning towards the front of the saw. The manual shows how to adjust this using the six bolts and set screws under the table but it's a PITA. Also noticed the front to back squareness of the blade changed when I changed blade. Adjusting side of the blade square to the table was now big issue.For dust collection I bought a 6X4X4 true wye and connected to my 2hp dust collector with a 6" hose.
That's a good point, I completely forgot to mention squaring up the miter slot and table with the blade. I think I did that after aligning the wheels, and before squaring the fence, but I haven't checked it again with other blades.
Great video, very thorough. You're right on the guides, not so good. Maybe the blade insert could be a little bigger and you could adjust thru the opening, idk. I think another approach to adjust the guides would be to remove the table, which aint too tough. Thanks for sharing with us.
As far as I know the bottom wheel is never going to track like the top, and when people think it’s supposed to start messing with it their saw quits working right. The top wheel is the only one you want to ever adjust.
Maybe it varies by brand. I adjusted my bottom wheel with Laguna tech support on the phone, and it's been tracking perfectly with the top wheel for three years now.
@@TheSnekkerShow glad to hear that. Was it not tracking properly on top before. I was told that the bottom and top track differently and this is to help keep the blade on the tires. Changing the bottom tire to match the top would cause the blade to come off without the thrust bearings in place. Does the back of your blade run against the thrust bearings all the time or just when cutting ?
@@MSRWorkshop It only hits the thrust bearing while cutting. I did the initial adjustments with the bearings off, if I remember correctly. I know a lot of woodworkers never mess with their bottom wheel, so I'm sure it can work fine either way.
@@TheSnekkerShow does it come with a 110 1-3/4 hp motor that can be wired for 220 2.5 hp vice versa? Or they just offer the 110 and 220 motors that you can't rewired? Thanks
Thanks man. This is the exact saw I want to buy. I am downsizing from a Delta 18" 2HP Industrial. Given all that you've experienced - do you recommend this one? I plan to get the 220 version.
@@agomodern I ended up getting the Harvey Alpha. You may pay a little more for the longer blades (132" vs the 115" for the Laguna), but blades have been easy to get.
Question. Just bought the bx14 and I’m looking to do a similar pvc mod + harbor freight mod for dust collection. Any regrets with those mods? Any other mods you made to help keep dust to a minimum? Using a 6.5 HP rigid shopvac right now and it’s definitely insufficient. Great video btw!
I've been pretty happy with everything so far, but I'm sure it could be improved. This shows the measurements for the PVC. th-cam.com/video/iFvZIpgHA7I/w-d-xo.html
What brand re-sawblade are you using? I assume the drift master? Have you tried other re-saw blades? I bought a cheap one but I think a lot of my drift is because the blade isn’t that good.
Funny thing, I just remembered that I have a spare Delta mobile base under my workbench left over from my last bandsaw. It's okay, but I'm probably going to build one like I did for my jointer.
@@misfit4777 It's the same height as my workbench, table saw, and miter saw, which I like. I use it mostly for resawing and milling, so that's a comfortable working height. If I was doing more light-weight precision work, I'd probably raise it up a little like my scroll saw so it would be closer to my eyes without having to hunch over.
It's tough to even find a reasonably priced chisel that works optimally out of the box. Power tool adjustment and calibration is an inherent, inevitable, sometimes frustrating part of the trade.
Hello, while this is an extremely old thread, internet time, I am having the same issue with my bottom tire/wheel. I have taken great care to align my saw and am waiting on customer service….The top wheel has the blade centered and the bottom wheel has the blade far forward. If you remember…did you do the reverse tightening on the up and down bolts…or the same? I am pretty sure that I can fix it with only the slightest information. I have greatly benefited from your videos on the Laguna bandsaw. Thank you
If I remember correctly, I ended up adjusting both the top and bottom bolts. I think I started with just one, but then the wheel started to contact a pulley, so I backed off and did the other.
I have a 14BX for a couple years now...so far I have replaced tires and a bearing in the top wheel. Also the brake mechanism sticks now and again...tool a while to figure out why it wouldn't start! Shoulda got a Rikon
I have a Rikon drill press and it's been pretty good so far. I'm surprised you had to replace the tires. I haven't had to do any major maintenance since the initial configuration, but I mostly use it as an occasional resaw machine or vertical sawmill.
I had the same start problem, turned out to be the little switch in the foot pedal. I just went to Amazon and got several. its a good thing since I lost another switch within a year. I also lost a good blade when the ceramic guides came loose and got into the blade dulling it. Fixed that with some epoxy. I really don't like the guides. They keep coming loose. I have started tightening the knobs with pliers. When I change the blade I take the table loose and get it setup then put it back on. I am almost temped to take the lower guides off and throw them away. Other than all of that it is a good saw.
@@jameslewellen150 James, could you link to the switch please? Thank you. I thought about swapping out the guides for Carter bearings but they are very spendy
I was considering getting the 18bx and my "shop" is smaller than yours. I'm a hobbyist. Anyone else think the 14bx is large and probably enough saw for resawing and curves?
I've used mine to saw 13" oak logs into boards and haven't yet encountered anything it couldn't handle yet. It looks like the 18bx can resaw up to 16", which could have come in handy a few times for wider crotch cuts. I'm also a hobbyist, so it was tough to justify a bigger machine.
Great review, now I definitely know I won't buy this piece of sh*t saw. I see nothing but bad and unaligned parts with needs for upgrade on these saws... 😬
I'm looking into Harvey Ambassador C14. Seems to be less of a hassle. Those adjustments under the table are ridiculous. Hopefully it's not typical of all machines.
Exactly backwards. The more expensive the saw, the more adjustments you will be ABLE to make. If you’re not ready to calibrate a nice saw, then you’re not ready for a nice saw. You would be happier with a Ryobi, and just accept whatever setup values and tolerances it has built into, or knocked into it. As your skills improve and you discover the need for fine tuning your tools you can probably make some fine adjustments with a 2 lb dead blow hammer.
great review but it seems like the saw has infinite problems. this sounds like more of a don't buy video. I am just not sure this is the saw for me. Very sad
@@CoeurDuPetitPrince I watched the same video and came out with the same opinion. Those adjustments under the table are ridiculous and a complete turnoff.
For the brush, I chiseled out the hex nut so the recess into the brush. Then thread in the back one first and if you have a ratcheting wrench it was feasible, then followed by the front one
Here are some 3D-printed upgrades for your Laguna bandsaw:
✅ Improved dust collection insert block: thesnekkershow.etsy.com/listing/1703726866/insert-block-for-laguna-1412-and-14bx
✅ Better lock handle: thesnekkershow.etsy.com/listing/1786957785/improved-table-lock-handle-for-laguna
✅ "Check tension" magnet: thesnekkershow.etsy.com/listing/1758109099/magnetic-check-tension-sign-for-bandsaws
I purchased the laguna 1412 with the 1.75 hp motor. It's my first band saw ever and it is great I wired it 220 to get full use of power. The one thing I didn't like is the guides. I installed a set of carter guides last Friday and what a Saw this is now. I would recommend them for sure. Love your videos very helpful thank you from Alaska at grampas Wood shop..ps. resaw King rocks
Removing the table from the trunnions will allow full unobstructed access to your bottom guides. Great saw.
That's like saying to remove your table from your table saw. I think it's absurd.
Great thorough review!
I've had the 2.5HP for a year now. I have very mixed feelings about it and at this point I wish I had the Harvey Alpha. I had issues with the table not staying flat where the split is and had to go through a bunch of trouble to get that right. The trunnion system is crap and doesn't hold well so it easily goes out of 90, especially if you loosen it to make an angled cut and put it back. The flaw is all the play/slop in the trunnion. The throat plate is junk and trying to get or keep that perfectly flush is a challenge. The fence was humped and I had to call to get a replacement that still wasn't perfectly flat but was much better. The aluminum extrusion is just a piece of junk and as you showed if you put pressure against the backside during a cut it will flex - so use a on/off magnetic block on the backside to secure that like another viewer stated. The fence system as a whole is junk. Overall they put such little money into the fence system that in my opinion it's just cheap crap. I have mixed feelings about the ceramic blade guides. It too just feels really cheap, I'm not sure how long those ceramics will last. For now it's fine but every time I look at it I wish I had better. Like all bandsaws, blade changes are time consuming and you quickly find out why shops end up with at least two. One stays setup for resaw and the the other one(s) setup with whatever blades are good for the curve cuts. My experience with their customer service wasn't great.
The things I like about the saw. The 2.5HP motor is great. The foot brake is great. The mag on/off switch is good. Dust collection is acceptable.
If I were to do it over, I would have purchased the Harvey Alpha. Yes it's more expensive but it addresses most of the issues I have with the saw. I don't have one though, so maybe it has its own set of issues, but the fit and finish look way better.
Hi, for the dust collector if the OD is 4” try a short piece of PVC. Make a double female slit the ends and use a band clamp on each end to make is tight fit.
For the brush, I chiseled out the hex nut so the recess into the brush. Then thread in the back one first and if you have a ratcheting wrench it was feasible, then followed by the front one
With your lower blade guide, you can move the knob to the other side of the block assembly on the other threaded hole. It does remove a bit of your table tilt, but its much easier to get at.
Thanks, I'll have to take a look under there.
It removes most of the tilt. Mines on the outside and I can only get to 11 degrees
Have same saw here….great instruction on little known adjustments. I had 35 Starrett blades made from a reel of 3/8” stock. Very nice.
You can move that knob under the table by flipping it 90 degrees as there’s a hole facing the front. So you won’t need to tighten the screw with your fingers the way you did. Or tilt the table up and then adjust. While you’re at it unscrew that screw and move it to the front. There’s a hole if you’re look there so the screw won’t be in the back but the front. Cheers. I just got mine yesterday.
Great review! For the fence issue at the where it might move under load while cutting, try using one of those small heavy duty square magnets with and ON/OFF switch right up against the back of the fence so it doesn’t move. Works great for cheap table saw fences too!
Seems like a dewalt track saw clamp might work to help lock down the back end of the fence. Definitely enough information for a purchase if looking for a saw in that range. Thanks again.
I have the same problem with my kreg fence only locking on the front. If I'm cutting something where it can cause me problems I stick a clamp on the table behind the fence to support it. Sucks to have to take the extra step, but it works well.
nice review. I have taken Alex Snodgrass' tip on Removing the Table to adjust the lower guides. Although it is a feat of strength, dexterity and constitution to manipulate that badboy around the blade...it is the lesser of the 2 evils than getting sausagefingers and bananahands underneath to adjust those lower guides.
I agree, it's worth the extra lifting to keep more skin on my knuckles.
Thanks for a thorough review. I love the brake. Not a fan of the fence. If I had this saw, I would replace the two vertical adjustment set screws with pieces of brass shim stock the full length of the black part.
For support of the end of the fence, consider using a magswitch or magnetic featherboard.
I have designed and 3D printed zero clearance inserts for my Grizzly bandsaw and a few local wood working friends. These are easy to reprint when the slot gets too wide from the blade movement during cutting.
If you give me dimensions of your insert I will be happy to design and print an insert or give you the STL file if you want someone to print this locally.
I agree changing blades is a hassle.
Dave.
I haven't adjusted the fence in years and it's still square to the table, much to my surprise. I know someone with a 3d printer, that's an interesting idea. This is one of the things I love about managing a TH-cam channel.
Great review. I appreciate the depth to which you described the setup. That bandsaw is $1800 now. That seems like a lot of money to have to do all the fine tuning you did.
Very helpful. I have same issue with lower wheel not being aligned with top and couldn't figure out how to resolve. Thanks
Agreed this is a great saw. Most saws this size and larger do not have anything like the power this one does. Once setup it stays totally accurate is extremely quiet and vibration free. My previous startrite 401s 🇬🇧 was forever stalling when resawing, resulting in me usually kicking something hard! I say the only negative for me is the optional wheel kit. Don't bother, its crap! There are much better ones with 4 wheels not 3.
Incredibly helpful video, really appreciate you posting this. I just received this bandsaw yesterday and this video takes all the mystery out of it's use.
Congratulations, and thanks for the feedback.
To solve the 4" Dust Port to 2 1/4" problem, Rockler sells a 4" ID Rubber Union Item# 46301. They also sell the 4'' T-Connector Collection Fitting for connecting the Top and bottom ports together item # 88501.
That could work. I ended up taking a slightly different approach, shown around 26:40. I did a quick overview of the parts and process here: th-cam.com/video/iFvZIpgHA7I/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for a really good video. One thing I am glad you bought up was Laguna's customer service. It has not been that long ago they had really bad customer service. I am glad they have improved it. I am going to get a new BS and the 14BX is what I have been looking at the most.
I've heard other people say their customer service was bad, which I thought was surprising. I wonder how much of that was a side effect of doing business during a pandemic. My experience was from three years ago, so I can only speak to that.
@@TheSnekkerShow I bought one of Laguna's lathes and trouble with it and didn't want to do anything about it. I bought the lathe from Woodcraft and took it back to them. The lady at Woodcraft was really mad. All this happened before the pandemic. I traded the Laguna lathe for a Jet and I was happy.
@@hawkeye10100 Woodcraft is a franchise and doesn't like returns. I bought a Laguna carbide-tipped blade online from Woodcraft that had a crack in the weld. The guy at Woodcraft complained, but I called Laguna and they sent me a replacement.
Laguna customer service seems good now. I bought their C Flux dust collector and had issues with the remote not connecting. They were right on it and sent me a new remote pronto.
For dust port. Use a short piece of hose as a coupler. Use 2 clamps to keep it together.
I’m planning to buy one after using a Delta 14” for the past 20 years. I sold my contractors saw 3-4 years ago and don’t miss it at all because a good bandsaw is far more versatile. A buddy bought one 2 years ago and loves it. I’ve found it is a bit cheaper to buy 8/8 lumber and re-saw 4/4 and 6/4 out of it, plus grain matching is much easier and locally available slabs have fantastic grain. The latest price of $1999.99 sucks but I’ll recoup about $300 selling the Delta. That will buy 2 re-saw blades😂.
If you can hold off a little longer, Laguna usually has an annual March Madness sale.
Great review. I’ve been looking for a new bandsaw and this model in particular. I walked into my local Woodcraft today to look around and they had one all setup. There is no place in the last year that’s had one for me to look at. I bought it on the spot and will pick it up tomorrow.
Congratulations, it's a great machine.
I've been drooling over that exact bandsaw for a couple of years.... $2640 in AU One day.... Thanks for posting . I'm sure you have seen Alex Snodgrass's vids ?
Wow, I think I got mine on sale for $1350 USD, plus shipping. I don't think I've ever seen that channel before, but I'll check it out.
You could add a short section of 4” plastic dust collector hose between the saw port and your shop vac adaptor.
That could work. I ended up building a PVC system for connecting to a 4" dust collector. th-cam.com/video/iFvZIpgHA7I/w-d-xo.html
I replace the ceramic ones with a set of Carter blade guides. Works better.
For the bottom guide screws I found a spark plug pliers works very well. Still a little tedious but better than fingers.
Hey Snekker, love the channel, thanks for the great content. I noticed a silver screw on the brush housing that looked like it would release the whole piece allowing you to tighten the brush screws then reinstall, but I could be wrong as I'm looking at it on a computer screen.
Thanks for the feedback. I had to go double-check, but no, that just allows it to be moved slightly.
Thank you very much! I’ve ordered the same saw, apparently a good saw, its on back order until February
That's going to be a long wait, but worth it.
Ordered mine in October 2020. Just arrived last week.
Got it finally on March 6th
Put laguna re saw blade on my $200 craigslist ridgid 14 with riser kit and it rips 12" maple no problem!!! Glad I went cheap route before pulling the trigger on an expensive bandsaw!!
Can't imagine any project where I would need anything else!
Have the same saw and the 3/4" Resaw King blade. My biggest problem with set up was getting the back of the blade square to the table. It was leaning towards the front of the saw. The manual shows how to adjust this using the six bolts and set screws under the table but it's a PITA. Also noticed the front to back squareness of the blade changed when I changed blade. Adjusting side of the blade square to the table was now big issue.For dust collection I bought a 6X4X4 true wye and connected to my 2hp dust collector with a 6" hose.
That's a good point, I completely forgot to mention squaring up the miter slot and table with the blade. I think I did that after aligning the wheels, and before squaring the fence, but I haven't checked it again with other blades.
I ended up buying a metal scale with scribed in marks inch and metric and mounting with double stick tape to old angle iron.
Great video, very thorough. You're right on the guides, not so good. Maybe the blade insert could be a little bigger and you could adjust thru the opening, idk. I think another approach to adjust the guides would be to remove the table, which aint too tough. Thanks for sharing with us.
Exceptional.......thoroughly informative and helpful.
As far as I know the bottom wheel is never going to track like the top, and when people think it’s supposed to start messing with it their saw quits working right. The top wheel is the only one you want to ever adjust.
Maybe it varies by brand. I adjusted my bottom wheel with Laguna tech support on the phone, and it's been tracking perfectly with the top wheel for three years now.
@@TheSnekkerShow glad to hear that. Was it not tracking properly on top before. I was told that the bottom and top track differently and this is to help keep the blade on the tires. Changing the bottom tire to match the top would cause the blade to come off without the thrust bearings in place. Does the back of your blade run against the thrust bearings all the time or just when cutting ?
@@MSRWorkshop It only hits the thrust bearing while cutting. I did the initial adjustments with the bearings off, if I remember correctly. I know a lot of woodworkers never mess with their bottom wheel, so I'm sure it can work fine either way.
It honestly sounded like you turned into David Letterman for the three-year review.
I am planning to buy this, most detailed description thank u
You're quite welcome.
@@TheSnekkerShow does it come with a 110 1-3/4 hp motor that can be wired for 220 2.5 hp vice versa? Or they just offer the 110 and 220 motors that you can't rewired? Thanks
@@japhetmillion4671 They sell them pre-wired. I just popped the electrical cover of mine and didn't see a rewiring diagram.
Green DWV sewer pipe us the right diameter for your dust collection hook up.
Thanks man. This is the exact saw I want to buy. I am downsizing from a Delta 18" 2HP Industrial. Given all that you've experienced - do you recommend this one? I plan to get the 220 version.
I've had it for three years and I'm still a big fan. I had a 1HP Jet previously, so this was a huge step up in resaw power.
looks like you could move the lower blade guide lock screw to the outside. is there another hole visible at 20:03?
Thank you so much for this review.
I almost bought one of these. So glad I didn't -- . The saw I did end up getting is absolutely fabulous.
Since I've been looking at the 14bx... what did you get?
I've been looking at the 14bx and the Harvey C-14. Which saw did you get?
Since this poster didn’t reply; I’m guessing the post was BS.
@@RobMoreland I'm looking at the C-14 as my number one choice so far.
@@agomodern I ended up getting the Harvey Alpha. You may pay a little more for the longer blades (132" vs the 115" for the Laguna), but blades have been easy to get.
Question. Just bought the bx14 and I’m looking to do a similar pvc mod + harbor freight mod for dust collection. Any regrets with those mods? Any other mods you made to help keep dust to a minimum? Using a 6.5 HP rigid shopvac right now and it’s definitely insufficient. Great video btw!
I've been pretty happy with everything so far, but I'm sure it could be improved. This shows the measurements for the PVC. th-cam.com/video/iFvZIpgHA7I/w-d-xo.html
@@TheSnekkerShow thanks man! Totally appreciate it!
What brand re-sawblade are you using? I assume the drift master? Have you tried other re-saw blades? I bought a cheap one but I think a lot of my drift is because the blade isn’t that good.
Laguna 3/4" Resaw King. I haven't tried any other carbide blades, and I have a 3/4" steel blade I haven't opened yet.
@@TheSnekkerShow thank you
Worth adding a block and clamp it at the end off the guide so it won't tilt
Thank you for sharing! 😊
For your dust collection get a 4in coupling
Been eyeballing this saw. Good video! Can you use a Bora Portamate base (60~80 bucks) for that saw and not pay said "King's ransom" for a Laguna base?
Funny thing, I just remembered that I have a spare Delta mobile base under my workbench left over from my last bandsaw. It's okay, but I'm probably going to build one like I did for my jointer.
@@TheSnekkerShow are you happy with the height of the bandsaw? I've heard criticisms of how they sit lower than other brands. Is that a pro or a con?
@@misfit4777 It's the same height as my workbench, table saw, and miter saw, which I like. I use it mostly for resawing and milling, so that's a comfortable working height. If I was doing more light-weight precision work, I'd probably raise it up a little like my scroll saw so it would be closer to my eyes without having to hunch over.
Great video sounds like great saw just blade guides aren’t that great I hear people love the Carter guides better
I haven't tried the Carter guides, only because I can't justify them yet. The ceramic ones on my Laguna are still in great shape after four years.
Great video. Thanks!
Is there a bandsaw that works right out of the box?
Seems like this gentleman spent a lot of time getting the machine ready...
It's tough to even find a reasonably priced chisel that works optimally out of the box. Power tool adjustment and calibration is an inherent, inevitable, sometimes frustrating part of the trade.
I'm looking into the Harvey Ambassador C14 and it comes completely assembled from what I've gathered researching.
Hello, while this is an extremely old thread, internet time, I am having the same issue with my bottom tire/wheel. I have taken great care to align my saw and am waiting on customer service….The top wheel has the blade centered and the bottom wheel has the blade far forward. If you remember…did you do the reverse tightening on the up and down bolts…or the same? I am pretty sure that I can fix it with only the slightest information. I have greatly benefited from your videos on the Laguna bandsaw. Thank you
If I remember correctly, I ended up adjusting both the top and bottom bolts. I think I started with just one, but then the wheel started to contact a pulley, so I backed off and did the other.
Have you tried to remove the throat plate to adjust the lower blade guides? I just ordered this saw myself
I've tried it, but I usually just end up removing the table for better visibility.
I have a 14BX for a couple years now...so far I have replaced tires and a bearing in the top wheel. Also the brake mechanism sticks now and again...tool a while to figure out why it wouldn't start! Shoulda got a Rikon
I have a Rikon drill press and it's been pretty good so far. I'm surprised you had to replace the tires. I haven't had to do any major maintenance since the initial configuration, but I mostly use it as an occasional resaw machine or vertical sawmill.
I had the same start problem, turned out to be the little switch in the foot pedal. I just went to Amazon and got several. its a good thing since I lost another switch within a year. I also lost a good blade when the ceramic guides came loose and got into the blade dulling it. Fixed that with some epoxy. I really don't like the guides. They keep coming loose. I have started tightening the knobs with pliers. When I change the blade I take the table loose and get it setup then put it back on. I am almost temped to take the lower guides off and throw them away. Other than all of that it is a good saw.
@@jameslewellen150 James, could you link to the switch please? Thank you. I thought about swapping out the guides for Carter bearings but they are very spendy
I"m pretty sure top and bottom wheels are not supposed to be exactly co planer.
Great review, Thanks. Where do you get those good looking carbide tip blades?
Search for Laguna Resaw King. I think I got mine from Woodcraft, and they're on Amazon as well.
Thanks! Cheers.@@TheSnekkerShow
I agree. The lower blade guide adjustment is awful.
Haha! Put it in the comments, somebody will read it. Excellent sentiment
Nice thank you
You're quite welcome
Do you have a video of setup and sawing of your lumber, taking it from log down to workable lumber? Nice review on the Laguna 14BX!
Not in a consolidated video, but I have several pieces in this playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLvDK1rlZrs5mIO-6lVZ870LLcHVz7yW-f.html
Buddy on your blue face plate, there are 4 set screws 1 on each corner. That’s how you level the plate. There is no sanding required.
The set screws will level the plate, but they won't fix an uneven surface. Sanding fixed the uneven surface.
Can't you tilt the table up when you need to adjust that rear knob on the bottom blade guide?
Yes, but it's still a very tight fit.
Tilting makes things a little easier but it's still a pain
Do you ever have any problems with blade drift?
Only when the blade gets dirty. Too much pitch buildup on the blade or teeth will cause it to deflect.
I was considering getting the 18bx and my "shop" is smaller than yours. I'm a hobbyist. Anyone else think the 14bx is large and probably enough saw for resawing and curves?
I've used mine to saw 13" oak logs into boards and haven't yet encountered anything it couldn't handle yet. It looks like the 18bx can resaw up to 16", which could have come in handy a few times for wider crotch cuts. I'm also a hobbyist, so it was tough to justify a bigger machine.
Are you just using a dryer plug for 220
Yes I am. th-cam.com/video/Fdv388_DH_s/w-d-xo.html
Ha 1500.00 now 1999.00 min
That looks like a bike disc brake!
Try $2500 or more now. Insane was $1900
Keep those numbers handy for the next time you need to justify an immediate power tool purchase.
You kind of sound like Nick Offerman in my head. I bet you could do a mean impression. lol
I've been trying to hire him to do voice-overs for my videos, but I haven't heard back yet. Probably just hasn't checked his messages.
I kept thinking…”bring me all the bacon and eggs you have”. I love the Ron Swanson character.
@@KevinMiner1970 I fear what you heard was, “bring me a lot of bacon and eggs.” What I said was, “bring me ALL the bacon and eggs you have.” lmao
Dam that bandsaw takes up way too much space
another bandsaw off the list.
And what do you recommend ? Or have your eyes on ?
Great review, now I definitely know I won't buy this piece of sh*t saw. I see nothing but bad and unaligned parts with needs for upgrade on these saws... 😬
That’s BS, for an expensive machine you should never have to do these things!
Thanks for your info. I won’t be buying a Laguna!
I'm looking into Harvey Ambassador C14. Seems to be less of a hassle. Those adjustments under the table are ridiculous. Hopefully it's not typical of all machines.
Exactly backwards. The more expensive the saw, the more adjustments you will be ABLE to make. If you’re not ready to calibrate a nice saw, then you’re not ready for a nice saw. You would be happier with a Ryobi, and just accept whatever setup values and tolerances it has built into, or knocked into it. As your skills improve and you discover the need for fine tuning your tools you can probably make some fine adjustments with a 2 lb dead blow hammer.
@@wulf67
I bought a Rikon 14". It has spring loaded guides easily adjustable.
No my complaint with the Laguna is with the guides.
great review but it seems like the saw has infinite problems. this sounds like more of a don't buy video.
I am just not sure this is the saw for me. Very sad
Ha ha
Huh? Were we watching the same video?
@@CoeurDuPetitPrince I watched the same video and came out with the same opinion. Those adjustments under the table are ridiculous and a complete turnoff.
For the brush, I chiseled out the hex nut so the recess into the brush. Then thread in the back one first and if you have a ratcheting wrench it was feasible, then followed by the front one