My five-year-old planer died... but I fixed it and improved it.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- Whether you're a hobby woodworker or a professional, unexpected tool outages can ruin your day. I tried to sneak in a little workshop time and was disappointed to find that my planer wouldn't start. After a little troubleshooting and a normal manly amount of crying, I was able to narrow down the problem, and also determine the root cause of the problem.
By the end of the video, you'll know how to fix the same issue in your DW735 DeWalt thickness planer, understand why it happened, and be able to modify your planer so it never happens again. You might even find yourself entertained in the process.
The updated switch diagnosis is here: • Replace the safety swi...
This is the switch: www.ereplaceme...
As long as you're working on your planer, upgrade the crank handle: thesnekkershow...
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These are some of the tools and accessories shown in the video:
Klein voltage tester: amzn.to/3KsRrJ9
Vinyl electrical tape: amzn.to/32fX64A
DW735X Planer (with tables and extra knives): amzn.to/2N9xSgl
DW735 Planer (without extension tables): amzn.to/3rKT5vL
DW7351 Extension Tables: amzn.to/2LrYDfs
Process: I filmed using a Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra phone at 4K 60 FPS, and for certain parts, 8K at 24fps. The audio was mostly recorded using a Rode Wireless Go with a Rode lavalier microphone. The video editing was done with CyberLink PowerDirector 20 (365). The computer is a Dell XPS 8930 with a 6-core i7 8700, 32 Gb or RAM, and a GeoForce GTX 1070, and it sounded like an airplane taking off while it was processing 43 Gb of raw footage into the 6 Gb finished product.
This video is not sponsored. I paid for everything and used my own time. As an Amazon Associate, I may earn a small commission if you use these links to make a purchase.
As long as you're working on your planer, now is a great time to upgrade the height adjustment pole with this improved knob: thesnekkershow.etsy.com/listing/1751336110/improved-knob-for-dewalt-dw735-thickness
Not sure if others appreciate your sense of humor... I think it is top shelf! Keep doing what you do-watching one of your videos is 100X better than mindless sitcoms on tv AND the viewer learns something along the way!
Forty+ years of personal experience confirms your suspicion that not everyone appreciates my sense of humor. Thanks for the feedback.
My DW735 died today on the last board I was planing. That was the source of the problem. Thanks for making the video!
@@DreadRoberts12 Awesome. I'm glad it was helpful.
the newspaper and "NO!" 😂Totally lost it!!😂🤣
I appreciate your humor - it's one reason I keep coming back for your videos! They're entertaining and informative. Love that so-called "safety feature".
I'm sure it sounded like a great idea at the time. I'm guessing the guy proposing a microwave-door switch didn't work in the same office as the guy proposing the 18-amp breaker so they didn't have to use a 20-amp plug.
Thanks for the detailed explanation of the wiring. VERY helpful. This is what these videos should be.
Ordered a new switch off Amazon for 14 bucks with free shipping just to have on hand. The other site you mentioned for replacement wanted 12 bucks just for shipping, then another 14 for the switch, ouch.. Thanks for the info on this and yes, I can bypass as you did but hey.. In case I wanted to sell it, it would have a regular switch.
Considering buying one of these planers; greatly appreciate the detail and clarity you provide in these maintenance and trouble-shooting videos. The dry seasoning is a nice bonus as well.
Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I'll get another winner published tonight, conditions permitting. That planer usually goes on sale around Father's Day, so keep an eye on the prices.
I gasped when you grabbed that chain saw pull start, then I remembered that sense of humor
Thanks to you, I've just fixed my "non-working" planer. But there's no way in hell my DeWalt will ever look as clean as yours.
Fantastic sense of humor. No need to go mainstream.
I'd suspect the non-functioning switch was due to the melted plastic preventing the switch mechanicals from releasing. Tap with the "hammer" resulted in enough shock to allow the mechanism to reset. I'd discount the welding of contacts premise simply because you're able to reproduce it without current flowing. Not much clearance for the mechanical components in those switches which would also allow for the melting of the plastic in its closed state.
I was back and forth on that, and you could be right. I couldn't see any place where melted plastic would have caused the spring assembly to stick such that even slight movement of the lid would reestablish the connection. If there was a rough surface on the contact from the weld or foreign matter, I figured maybe it would hook on somehow when the contacts snapped together. I need to check later for the effects of heat-expanded plastic. Maybe the screws in the corners would pinch the front and back cover together enough to create a sticking point. This makes sense since the place where it's sticking would be where there was direct heat during heavy use.
I was able to reproduce the issue, so I'll be posting an update before long.
@@TheSnekkerShow Love the attention to a $2 switch (plus DW's markup). Looking forward to the update.
@@MattWarfield I think you're about right on the markup. I almost ordered it from Amazon, but I was curious if the OEM one sold on eReplacementParts would be any different from the original.
Great video , my four year old planner stopped working less than a week ago.
Did the bypass and now it’s good as new. Also ordered new safety switch in case I decided to sell it one day. Keep up the good work.
Excellent, thanks for commenting.
I’m about to buy this planner and will permanently fix this switch. 😊
Great content, definitely good to know that the 'safety switch' took on a jekyll and hyde personality.
I just opened my 735 for a different reason... I just got it second hand and don't have dust collection set up yet. Figured the little impellor in the exhaust was good enough. Big mistake apparently, as after using it a while the sprocket on the back left post got gummed up with sawdust and allowed the chain to jump a couple teeth.. resulting in the whole thing binding due to one corner being lower than the other 3. Had to take it halfway apart just to get to that sprocket to turn it manually to get it back to the position the rest of the sprockets were at.... big PITA but I learned a good lesson about my new-to-me tool
That is a problem I hadn't yet imagined. Nice work on figuring out how to fix it.
Great content. I enjoy your sense of humor a lot. I’d love to know when one should use each speed on a planner.
I usually leave mine on low unless I want to remove a lot of material quickly. Aside from surface quality, I just find it easier to get bunch of boards through in sequence when they're moving slower.
I'm only halfway through the video and I already have water coming out of my nose from laughing. Your sense of humor is sick and sometimes twisted, nice job. You should do stand-up comedy
This video took almost a month to make and I needed a nap and coffee after each joke to recharge. Stand-up is not in my future.
@@TheSnekkerShow well keep doing what you're doing. Their great.
Love your videos. You're so thorough.
@@lanegustafson929 Thank you
I totally get your sense of humor ... highly entertaining and funny! But keep in mind I often get blank stares after telling jokes so take that for what it's worth. lol Thanks for the informative video! Gotta love a safety device that can do the exact opposite of what it's supposed to do. I never even knew that "feature" existed. Seems like a sticker telling the user to unplug the machine before removing the cover would be a better approach ... and cheaper.
The dust hood covering the knives would be a sensible place for such a sticker.
I definitely like your sense of humor. I subscribed within 30 seconds because of the way you apologized for not freaking people out sooner. So on to business. Just remove the striker lever from the bad switch. This way it will not be affected by the lid when it is on or off and you can join wires 1 & 2 back to their original terminal spades. Just saying.
Yet another excellent video, thanks for spending the time to document so clearly and completely the hardware problem, including its immediate cause, and the underlying cause!
Minor oversight: Although you mentioned the screw behind the thickness gauge plate in your intro to the removal procedure but by @12:38 you had skipped pointing out or showing the removal of that additional front panel screw. However partial recovery @16:24 by showing it clearly when you remounted the panel.
Right you are, I must have missed that clip during editing. Good thing I mentioned it a couple times.
I found this video just when I needed it thanks
I'm glad it was helpful.
the contacts were welded together, that's why you didn't hear it clicking when it was released after pressing it down meaning the contacts were staying closed. that switch is probably only rated for 15Amps, (you can find its rating somewhere on the switch itself). Due to the fact that you installed a Shelix head its drawing more amps to run which overheats the switch. This could also be a problem where users have the equipment too far from the power source ( extension cords) which drops the voltage and causes machine to draw even more amps because of less voltage (ohms law) . You are correct that the copper spring will become annealed when heated, this is the whole premise on how a resettable circuit breaker works. but since it's not a circuit breaker it will stay annealed and provide less " spring" to lift the contact after its cooled. the metal flakes you heard rattling around in there were probably pieces of the contact that got burned off causing issues like you stated.
Gotta admit, I chuckled at the jump starting bit :)
May be Dewalt must put a bipolar condensar there between the 2 contacts to kill the spark that produces that current...that way the micro will not fail
THANK YOU! my planer died last weekend after planing some stock. I stumbled on your video which was my exact same problem and I did your exact same solution (well I used pieces from a 6p finish nail to tie the 2 spade connectosr together but you get the point). BACK IN BUSINESS !
I have to wonder if the higher amperage draw from the helical cutter head caused the switch to fail. I have since re-installed my stock cutter head, only time will tell if I have another issue I guess.
Excellent, I'm glad it was helpful. The nail should work, but steel is less conductive than copper, so keep an eye on things.
Steve, did you ever put your spiral cutterhead back on? If not, and if you still have it, would you consider selling it?
@@DavidJohnson-xi7ds not for sale (yet). Been thinking about re-installing the spiral head to see if my breaker-tripping issue is resolved, just really haven't made the time to do it yet since my knives are still decent.
I love troubleshooting with a wiggie, but have been fooled a few times as they just register voltage, not how much.
Oh those little microswitches! I bought a whole bag of them. Literally very annoying as a 2 m8nute plug and play repair? It takes an hour to get to it. Top job. Cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍. I knew a subbed for a reason.
I get your humor… one of the reasons I like your vids… I would’ve made a jumper wire that had blade connectors… but that’s me…😂😂
Great video!
Great presentation of this detail. I'm sure many will find it helpful since this is such a common planer. I would put in a vote for the plastic cover being malformed due to over heating, which may have put inward pressure on the sides of the metal parts making them catch in place every once in a while, possibly aided by a bit of gravity. That would explain why on it's side and/or with the cover off you could not reproduce the "false close." Of course you theory about the carbon build up is required for any explanation.
Did you happen to measure the resistance of the switch in closed position? Would be interesting to get a couple measurements in each in the various possible failure modes you mentioned and compare to the new switch if it ever arrives.
I measured resistance, but I was not getting consistent enough readings to make sense of it. Possible operator error. Good thinking on the deformed sides. I couldn't reproduce that either, but it helped lead to the moving bottom contact.
I encountered a similar switch failure problem on the door of GE microwave oven.
You do know that the current carrying capacity of 14 awg wire can vary depending on the type of wire and the insulation used. I'D be willing to bet the type of 14 awg wire they used actually has a rating of 20 amps. The melted spot on that connector going into that switch indicates a high resistance connection probably caused by not enough contact area/pressure between the connector and terminal on that switch along with the vibration put off by the planer when it's running. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace that connector.
It's labeled as a 15A planer, and it has a 15A plug, an 18A breaker, and a 16A micro switch, so I'm not inclined to assume that they invested in special high-capacity wire.
i been fighting my burnt safety switch forever, thanks
Good info
Glad it was helpful
Already digging the satire. But just want to inform that what the tool you were using is in fact not a current detector.
That it an electromagnetic field detector. And is more often then not, used when current is most definitely NOT present. It detects "a" voltage. There's a broad band it can detect.
I'm investigating the ill effects of an 8yr old model of this same planer and stumbled in here. Thanks for the info and a good chuckle sir
Love it, thanks man!!
My pleasure
Where can I see that previous video? Sounds awesome
th-cam.com/video/WTFdwDLNGfA/w-d-xo.html
As long as you were not using the bad switch, why didn’t you just use one of the terminals from the switch to bridge the two connectors? Then you would not have to squash the terminals and IMHO it would be more secure. Thanks
That would work, too.
My 735 suddenly stopped in the process of running some hardwood through. I found your video (I’m subscribed). I followed your suggestion to remove the safety switch and directly connect the wires. I flipped the switch and nothing! I have power all the way to the 735. Any suggestions ?
Did the circuit breaker in the front trip?
@@TheSnekkerShow… no
@genemccarthy2847 The next thing I might check would be carbon brushes, although it sounds like you might need to check for voltage at each step in the circuit.
Just for good measure, I am replacing the circuit breaker. I checked the continuity to where I spliced the wires after removing the micro switch and I have power. Just waiting for parts.
Mr. Snekker, I like your videos! But I have a question on my DW735 that you may have some experience with. I almost always use the faster speed (2), and a year or so ago I installed the Byrd Shelix original diameter head. I notice now my planer will not shift speeds from 2 to 1, and figure I must have done something wrong. Do you have any suggestions?
When you reinstalled the gear box, there's a rod that needs to be re-engaged with the speed selector. That might have been missed.
@@TheSnekkerShow, thank you! When it warms up a bit I'll check that out.
@@billmckinney7398 You can see what it's supposed to look like in my installation video. This link should jump straight to the right part: th-cam.com/video/8J0rvBi8a0k/w-d-xo.htmlm35s
Why didn't you just remove the wire that went from the circuit breaker to the contact switch and just connect the wire that originally went from the contact switch to the motor to now go directly from the breaker to the motor? (Maybe it wasn't long enough to reach? )
I don't remember, but they don't put much extra wire in there.
You cannot relay on the microswitch to save your bacon.
A power surge can fuse the contacts together making the microswitch useless. Always
NO to NC swap? Yeah, curious to see how that happened. watched long enough to see it sounds like broken contact inside the micro switch.
I figured it out in the next video: th-cam.com/video/-jA6SFBRkjA/w-d-xo.html
Just ordered one of these from Home Depot with a spare set of knives. The DW735X is $749.00 while the DW735 is $600.05. Does not make sense. The difference between the two are the accessories that come with the DW735X, it comes with a spare set of knives for $54.97 and the extension tables for $52.83. That is $148.95 more for $107.80. Makes complete sense. I did not get the extension tables as they are not in stock and I plan to make my own in and out feed tables longer than the stock ones to hopefully minimize snipe.
I love the sense of humor. Submarine sailor for 20 years and providing tech support for another 20 will give a person a dark sense of humor. Either that or a drinking issue. Keep on making videos, I have 5 years to go through.
Yeah, that is odd with the prices. I think I've seen the DW735X come with a stand as well, but that might be a different model number. Thanks for the feedback on the channel. My video history is probably comparable to submarine life, in that the deeper you go, the less time you want to spend there.
Sounds like we both have initial troubleshooting method of cursing out the item / process that is not working.
This is the way.
I would keep the safety feature but replace that switch with one that has a higher rating , many times those little switches from the factory are the cheapest junk they can source .
Dewalt has the entire current flowing through that switch going to the motor which I think is a really bad design. Microswitches aren't really designed for that.
Actually the SawStop equivalent of your DeWalt planer problem wouldn't be that the blade speeds up when you touch the blade -- it would be that when the saw is turned off, if you touch the blade the saw starts up...
Ahh, I don't think using a wire nut would be advisable, given the constant vibration the machine experiences in use. I would not trust that nut not to come loose. There might not be too much metal in the area for the then exposed live wire to touch but why tempt fate?
I also try all of the swear words I know lol. It helps the solution for sure haha
Tim Conway Humor!
That switch should be fail-safe
Wow. That is big failure. Safety mechanism working in reverse is in no way acceptable. I agree, be rid of it. Although some small voice in my head says to label that this is done on the machine. To forewarn those that expect it to be working, when removing top cover!?. I envy that you have 2 of these things. I have none. However, I have two used brake rotors on a shelf, just in case.
I'm the only person who uses this planer, but I agree that labeling is a good idea. I might sell one eventually, and a label is probably better for the new owner than reinstalling a switch they don't need.
Was your planner hit by a drunk driver?
Lol no, your tracer is detecting INDUCTANCE
two planers?
set one in front of the other as the board is fed into the second to a faster desired thickness.
hell, get a third planer or even a fourth…..,you set each one to take off a little more as they come out of the forth and one run the boards thru one time.
think of how fast you’ll get your work done. think of the mess, think if the noise, think how angry that jerk next door will be that blocks your driveway. and eat a sandwich at the same time.
Hey……!!!! You’ve got TWO of those planers….!!! That’s not fair, they should raise your taxes!!!!!😠😠😜🤣🤣🤣 jk
Your wiring scares me.
Yeah me too!!!
Funniest in class
why not just make a jumper with MALE connectors
Lots of acceptable ways to do it as long as it doesn't create another bottleneck.
Invest in a volt meter to trouble shoot with! 😁🛫