This video was very informative; I learned a lot and am thankful for the information you presented (as usual in an entertaining, professional and pleasant way). Thank you. Now I'm on my way to Lakeshore Carbide to order more sensibly. The one tip regarding stub end mills was invaluable.
Superb ! Ty . I’m just starting out (my second hand desktop cnc mill arrives in the next few days - so this is immensely helpful to help with initial tool selection)
3:15 couldn't agree more... recently went to a 10mm DOC and a 1.2mm WOC on my cnc router... Nearly quadrupled my MRR now around 15 cubic cm a min! better surface finish and huge chips too, easier to clean up.
sn0wchyld I feel like a 2.6 mm doc radial and 6mm doc axial works best for me cutting steel on my cnc router. Reason is I think because a cut is a cut and a bigger cut will remove more material per cut saving me money on tool life.
Going back to my comment on the # of flutes video, this is how I get away with using 4 flute endmills instead of 3 in aluminum. I generally use a high RPM, a low chipload and I use dynamic toolpaths (HSM, trochoidal, etc) that do a good job of clearing the chips. Combined with high flow coolant, I have little issue with recutting chips. :) I completely agree with using the shortest endmill you can manage. Much stronger. I also suggest using the largest diameter endmill that you can manage. My general purpose roughing endmill is 1/2" with 1.25" flutes.
Its not difficult to use, takes a bit to get used to using it, and to set the relief angles correctly. It may take an hour or so to get acquainted with the machine, endmills can be sharpened and back in service in a few minutes. I sure enjoy your videos! I have been a maintenance type machinist for 50 years, but cnc less than 4 years, still learning a lot.
I have a Darex endmill sharpener, it will sharpen the ends and the flutes as well, it is the model E90 and has an air spindle I bought it several years ago. when I was machining 304 ss machine parts.
A idea from Mr Seebold, freelance Tormach consultant, is that he ONLY uses the very end of his end mills until they get dull, then he rounds them up, and gets them all ground SHORTER. This way he loses none of the cutter diameter, gets an increasingly rigid tool, and only pays to grind it down which sounded cheaper than sharpening. This would naturally require shallow work though so I still try to do all of my work full length.
I'm running a 1980s Swedish machine with a max spindle speed of 2500rpm. (2.4kw 3 phase motor). Working with aluminium, if I am cutting a contour cut and want 35mm doc , would it be better to use a larger dia endmill (say a 20mm dia, 3 flute) to limit deflection because of the long flute length, and then do finishing passes (0.2mm) with a 10mm dia 3 flute ?
My shop has a tool grinding section.. We can regrind flutes, bottom of end mills, re"gash" to keep endmills center cutting.. Also turn square corner endmills to have different radius or make them ball nose .. I did a 3 month rotation thru that section as an apprentice
John I had a tormach a few tears ago. I sold it. Im thinking of getting another. Do you have a problem with the TTS tool holders pulling out of the spindle. I know there is maintance procedure for the TTS R8 collet. How often do you do maintance on the collet. Thanks
Regarding a comment below about sharpening on a Darex. It looks like from their website that they are only doing drill sharpening and it quite expensive $3-4,000. No E90 any more. Anybody knows what endmill sharpener is available in the market for the normal people price range? :) I couldn't find anything. But a few outlets sell E90 which is discontinued. Is it fake?
What's a good endmill diameter percentage for cutting an internal radius and not having chatter? Like for example, I have a .500" internal radius, should I use a 3/8" endmill or can I go larger?
Harvey tool has a good blog post on this, there's a formula to calculate how much you have to slow the feed on inside corners, and this also applies for cutting outside corners the same way where you can increase the feed and maintain the same chip load at the edge of the part since the feed is from centre line. If you look up harvey tool how to machine corners it'll come up with some helpful info.
If you had to make a .140 slot with a .125 endmill, how would you ideally go about it? I know some guys like plunge milling the inital slot as opposed to full slotting with the entire diameter. Curious for my stop pin track in my blades. I am using a .125 stop pin but am making the track .140 to give a few thou clearance on both sides of the pin.
+daniel lyall unfortunately I dont have cnc all my stuff is manual. Although no doubt that would be the way to go. It's a 180° slot that would be done with a rotary table.
This video was very informative; I learned a lot and am thankful for the information you presented (as usual in an entertaining, professional and pleasant way). Thank you. Now I'm on my way to Lakeshore Carbide to order more sensibly. The one tip regarding stub end mills was invaluable.
You never cease to amaze me... I am sooo happy, that you're opening a school :-) People need you... Especially ME... lol
Gotta say that I love and appreciate the way you explain things!! Awesome!!
Superb ! Ty . I’m just starting out (my second hand desktop cnc mill arrives in the next few days - so this is immensely helpful to help with initial tool selection)
Check your math at 4:25 for what is 30% of .125"
I caught that too.
3:15 couldn't agree more... recently went to a 10mm DOC and a 1.2mm WOC on my cnc router... Nearly quadrupled my MRR now around 15 cubic cm a min! better surface finish and huge chips too, easier to clean up.
sn0wchyld I feel like a 2.6 mm doc radial and 6mm doc axial works best for me cutting steel on my cnc router. Reason is I think because a cut is a cut and a bigger cut will remove more material per cut saving me money on tool life.
on a 6mm end mill
Going back to my comment on the # of flutes video, this is how I get away with using 4 flute endmills instead of 3 in aluminum. I generally use a high RPM, a low chipload and I use dynamic toolpaths (HSM, trochoidal, etc) that do a good job of clearing the chips. Combined with high flow coolant, I have little issue with recutting chips. :)
I completely agree with using the shortest endmill you can manage. Much stronger. I also suggest using the largest diameter endmill that you can manage. My general purpose roughing endmill is 1/2" with 1.25" flutes.
Are these good guidelines for manual machining too?
Its not difficult to use, takes a bit to get used to using it, and to set the relief angles correctly. It may take an hour or so to get acquainted with the machine, endmills can be sharpened and back in service in a few minutes.
I sure enjoy your videos! I have been a maintenance type machinist for 50 years, but cnc less than 4 years, still learning a lot.
I have a Darex endmill sharpener, it will sharpen the ends and the flutes as well, it is the model E90 and has an air spindle I bought it several years ago. when I was machining 304 ss machine parts.
Awesome episode, keep up the fantastic content.
A idea from Mr Seebold, freelance Tormach consultant, is that he ONLY uses the very end of his end mills until they get dull, then he rounds them up, and gets them all ground SHORTER. This way he loses none of the cutter diameter, gets an increasingly rigid tool, and only pays to grind it down which sounded cheaper than sharpening. This would naturally require shallow work though so I still try to do all of my work full length.
Thanks for all the informative videos. Great job!
I'm running a 1980s Swedish machine with a max spindle speed of 2500rpm. (2.4kw 3 phase motor). Working with aluminium, if I am cutting a contour cut and want 35mm doc , would it be better to use a larger dia endmill (say a 20mm dia, 3 flute) to limit deflection because of the long flute length, and then do finishing passes (0.2mm) with a 10mm dia 3 flute ?
I agree with the short endmill theory! I grind my endmills, ends and flutes, and have a lot of "shortys".........
My shop has a tool grinding section.. We can regrind flutes, bottom of end mills, re"gash" to keep endmills center cutting.. Also turn square corner endmills to have different radius or make them ball nose ..
I did a 3 month rotation thru that section as an apprentice
John I had a tormach a few tears ago. I sold it. Im thinking of getting another. Do you have a problem with the TTS tool holders pulling out of the spindle. I know there is maintance procedure for the TTS R8 collet. How often do you do maintance on the collet. Thanks
Video has the word 'Title' in the centre at 3:48. Just letting you know.
naw it's no problem
Sometimes you need the long tool for the .050 on hard to reach places.
That was an excellent video, makes you think, loved it,
Some very good tips there. Of course now I have to buy radiused end mills ... 😏
Regarding a comment below about sharpening on a Darex. It looks like from their website that they are only doing drill sharpening and it quite expensive $3-4,000. No E90 any more. Anybody knows what endmill sharpener is available in the market for the normal people price range? :)
I couldn't find anything. But a few outlets sell E90 which is discontinued. Is it fake?
What's a good endmill diameter percentage for cutting an internal radius and not having chatter? Like for example, I have a .500" internal radius, should I use a 3/8" endmill or can I go larger?
Harvey tool has a good blog post on this, there's a formula to calculate how much you have to slow the feed on inside corners, and this also applies for cutting outside corners the same way where you can increase the feed and maintain the same chip load at the edge of the part since the feed is from centre line. If you look up harvey tool how to machine corners it'll come up with some helpful info.
Send your tooling out to be reground and sharpened to save money and use more of the carbide.
If you had to make a .140 slot with a .125 endmill, how would you ideally go about it? I know some guys like plunge milling the inital slot as opposed to full slotting with the entire diameter.
Curious for my stop pin track in my blades. I am using a .125 stop pin but am making the track .140 to give a few thou clearance on both sides of the pin.
How about a pilot drill first? Center drill, twist drill, end mill?
+Finn Custom Knives HSM type tool path`s they are bonkers at material removal
+daniel lyall unfortunately I dont have cnc all my stuff is manual. Although no doubt that would be the way to go.
It's a 180° slot that would be done with a rotary table.
+Finn Custom Knives Turn the part 90° and use a keyway cutter to rough it along the X axis.
+atomkinder67 its a 180° slot around a central pivot point
it woud be great if u make a sheet with eu standars,, mm,, feed/tooth in mm, mm/min,, etc....
Scroll down, it's there...
wow, thanks
perfect for a nerd like me who just got dissed at the forum for my squeking steel cut today. :)
Thanks, great vid
Smaller depth of cuts faster speed is faster than deeper cuts 30%. Less pressure on your part as well.
thanks but this really needed a whiteboard
3:43 :)
3:45
Title!
Just had to mess with you about it! LOL.