@@-dash It does work but I would check the cable first. If you don't want to perform the modification in the console, you can modify the cable instead. Which is probably wiser.
@@SLRModShop @SLR Mod Shop Hmm, I'm using retrogamingcables "Super Nintendo NTSC / Super Famicom RGBS BNC cable". The description on their site says that they're "Wired for CSYNC and correctly attenuated at the console end of the cable." Does "correctly attenuated" mean I'm already good to go with these cables on a 1CHIP-01?
I have a Japanese 1chip-01 that I found PAL-modded in Thailand. There are jumpers on the bottom to put it in PAL mode as well as silkscreen markings for footprints that are only populated on the PAL version. I assumed they were the same board, only populated differently, but yours clearly says “SNSP” on it, as if there was a different board.
Jumpers are SCLP and SCLN on the bottom. The PAL modded one has SCLP bridged and SCLN cut with a wire between the frequency mod board and one of the SCLN pads.
Jerome, what you're experiencing here is a double termination! All 1CHIP systems output analog RGB video way too hot. Try replacing those 3 resistors with 1.4K's, that should keep the video from clipping and restore the amplitude to 1.4vPP, which is what you're wanting to achieve.
One of the resistors was not facing the same way as the others, I know it doesn't matter, it's just my OCD... xD Anyway, another tip that's good to know.
I have an ntsc super famicom version of the 1CHIP-02 and at stock(before i rgb bypassed it entirely as it was too bright even with the resistor mod) it seemed significantly brighter(more contrasty and crushed whites) than my brothers 1CHIP-01 model. No surprises here then...the 01's are not an exact science from my experience. Nice work though!
Is it perhaps because the cable is different for PAL?
Ooooooh... You're 100% right! I just checked and there are 75 Ohm pull down in the cable...
@@SLRModShop so this did work, correct? brightness looked good?
@@-dash It does work but I would check the cable first. If you don't want to perform the modification in the console, you can modify the cable instead. Which is probably wiser.
@@SLRModShop @SLR Mod Shop Hmm, I'm using retrogamingcables "Super Nintendo NTSC / Super Famicom RGBS BNC cable".
The description on their site says that they're "Wired for CSYNC and correctly attenuated at the console end of the cable." Does "correctly attenuated" mean I'm already good to go with these cables on a 1CHIP-01?
@@-dash then yes, it should be. Apparently, they included the resistors in the plug. You could check that with a multimeter if you're unsure.
I have a Japanese 1chip-01 that I found PAL-modded in Thailand. There are jumpers on the bottom to put it in PAL mode as well as silkscreen markings for footprints that are only populated on the PAL version. I assumed they were the same board, only populated differently, but yours clearly says “SNSP” on it, as if there was a different board.
Jumpers are SCLP and SCLN on the bottom. The PAL modded one has SCLP bridged and SCLN cut with a wire between the frequency mod board and one of the SCLN pads.
Jerome, what you're experiencing here is a double termination! All 1CHIP systems output analog RGB video way too hot.
Try replacing those 3 resistors with 1.4K's, that should keep the video from clipping and restore the amplitude to 1.4vPP, which is what you're wanting to achieve.
One of the resistors was not facing the same way as the others, I know it doesn't matter, it's just my OCD... xD
Anyway, another tip that's good to know.
Haha - yes, my OCD alarm was going off too!
@@GadgetUK164 :D
Somehow, I knew I’d find this comment. ;)
I have an ntsc super famicom version of the 1CHIP-02 and at stock(before i rgb bypassed it entirely as it was too bright even with the resistor mod) it seemed significantly brighter(more contrasty and crushed whites) than my brothers 1CHIP-01 model. No surprises here then...the 01's are not an exact science from my experience. Nice work though!