I use NTN bearings in my road bike wheels. They are definitely very good quality. I use the non contact seals on my summer bike and contact seals on my winter bike. However they still require the seals to be popped off occasionally and a small amount of grease injected or they can run dry. I had one fail on me prematurely that ran dry and started squealing but it wasn’t corroded inside. Another thing i’ve started doing is using Loctite 641 when installing the bearings as I read that it can reduce vibrations and improve bearing life.
@@reginaldscot165 I use it on the hubs only and not the axle. A thin smear of medium strength retaining compound like Loctite 641 around the inside surface where the bearings press and seat into the hub.
I think that a Campagnolo Nouvo Record hub with the cup and cone bearings are superior. The only downside is that freewheels are getting difficult to find.
My elitewheel drive wheelset also source ceramic bearings from same company, s&s. I know that ceramic bearings are not reliable as I had used it on my skateboard. Stainless steel ballbearings are real😁
Interesting video. I remember PT mentioning the vulnerability of the bare axles. I presume any replacement will be hard anodized. Nice scenery in the closing shot.
I have a largely unrelated question on rags: I am lazy to wash rags, and often resort to paper towels. I believe the rag’s material (whether a cotton shirt or a fancy microfibre towel) is better for drivetrain components. Am I ruining my drivetrain with the paper towels, or not a big deal? Thanks!
I never trusted ceramic stuff. Maybe ceramic is good for certain application but bicycle wheel is not one of them which are subjected to judder from road surface. I source Ezo, NTN bearing from Monotaro, a trusted online market place for technical supply. Sometime it can be rather long lead time for non stocked item, I assume these needs to be imported from Japan. Normally I would use 2RU semi contact seal, or 2RS full contact seal as altenattive. NTN code is a bit different, either LLU or LLB, can't remember which is which. Lately I noticed my rear wheel has a bit of play, looks like bearing is bad after 5.000 kms of mix surface.
@@reginaldscot165There are other local online market place, but I doubt all the products are genuine. I assume there are many counterfeit in the market since bearing is a fast consumable item.
18:00 On the slight play possibly due to the wear of the axle, I am starting to experience that on my front wheel so slightly. Is it a major concern or should I just continue riding it?
I've got a bunch of Chinese hubs, some axles have too small of a distance between the 2 bearings causing the play you speak of. You can use a small washer over the axle in between the bearings but it will slowly cut into the axle
Does the 2023 version hyper wheels have the same axles issue? I'm running set of R45 for 2000km. Edit, ceramic bearing version. If the se version launch early, I will definitely go steel bearings.
How can you have sideways movement of a bearing on the axle when, on the drive side, the distance between the axle shoulder and the drop-out is occupied by 3 bearings, 2 spacers and an end cap; and on the non-drive side by a bearing and an end cap - there is nowhere for the bearing to move. If, as you say in your addendum, there is ‘play’ at the circumference of the wheel, that can only be caused by movement in the bearing itself, or between the bearing and the hub.
A reduction in the diameter of the axle as a result of wear. Even if the caps were solid and I moving (and I suspect they are not) everything would be able to move up and down. 🙂
Ceramic bearings were the "thing" before 3D printing became the "thing". Years before, CNC'd color anodized stuff was the "thing" In between those titanium was the "thing". See where this goes? Avoid the newest-latest, hyped-to-the-max "thing" and you'll save money and spend more time riding and less time wrenching. You're welcome :-)
As a former shop mechanic, it's rarely a good idea to not use the right tools for the job (the thought of it grinds my gears). In terms of bearing removal, you can remove the hub shell bearings by knocking the axles out with a mallet. You'll need a bearing puller for the freehub body bearings. For reinstallation, a hub bearing press tool is the ideal solution.
The composite steel ceramic (hybrid) bearings are a total waste of money, I wouldn't even entertain the idea of them. Full ceramic are a different story though but several times the price of steel bearings, probably worthwhile for someone who spends too much time washing things particularly if they do it wrong and have direct flow at / into bearings instead of avoiding any seal area's. The bearing cage material isn't really an issue, very much doubt anyone can ride fast enough for cage to deform or overheat. On IC engines and vehicles capable of high speed, steel or bronze cages are best, sometimes even being silver plated to reduce friction
Wow 😮 Genius! I have been a bike mechanic for 8 years and a cyclist for 20+ and I never thought or heard of anyone doing that! If only bearings had grease instead them, they would never wear out! 😂
The info that steel cages are better and more efficient than polymer cages is false and comes from hambini that only sells those. If you do some research, you'll find that it is the other way around, not by accident that ceramicspeed and other top of the line overpriced bearings come with polymer cages...
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I use NTN bearings in my road bike wheels. They are definitely very good quality. I use the non contact seals on my summer bike and contact seals on my winter bike. However they still require the seals to be popped off occasionally and a small amount of grease injected or they can run dry. I had one fail on me prematurely that ran dry and started squealing but it wasn’t corroded inside. Another thing i’ve started doing is using Loctite 641 when installing the bearings as I read that it can reduce vibrations and improve bearing life.
That’s interesting, so you just lock tight the bearings in the hub or the axle as well? I can see why that might make a difference. 🤔🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 I use it on the hubs only and not the axle. A thin smear of medium strength retaining compound like Loctite 641 around the inside surface where the bearings press and seat into the hub.
I have alloy hubs , alloy rims, stainless steel spokes and steel bearings from 1970s,still going fine.Screw in cluster,5 speed, can't beat old school.
In many ways yes 🙂
How many furlongs per year do you do and do you only ride when it's warm and dry ? Let's have the whole story.
I think that a Campagnolo Nouvo Record hub with the cup and cone bearings are superior. The only downside is that freewheels are getting difficult to find.
Glad I went with steel bearings on my 2023 SE’s. All good so far at 300km in
Good/smart choice 👍🏻
My elitewheel drive wheelset also source ceramic bearings from same company, s&s. I know that ceramic bearings are not reliable as I had used it on my skateboard. Stainless steel ballbearings are real😁
Same spokes as well I believe? 🙂
Interesting video. I remember PT mentioning the vulnerability of the bare axles. I presume any replacement will be hard anodized. Nice scenery in the closing shot.
Yes it was shot on my recent holiday to Malaysia. 🙂 Yes I will be asking for an anodised version. 👍🏻
I have a largely unrelated question on rags: I am lazy to wash rags, and often resort to paper towels. I believe the rag’s material (whether a cotton shirt or a fancy microfibre towel) is better for drivetrain components. Am I ruining my drivetrain with the paper towels, or not a big deal? Thanks!
No, paper is fine. 👍🏻 I also don’t wash rags. They just get downgraded as they get dirtier until there are unusable. 😁
thanks for this...i have the annodised axles and pretty sure my bearings are near 10k km...have replacemenet ntn's on standby though...
Excellent 👌🏻
Will be interesting to see if Winspace provides you with the needed parts in a timely manner. Hopefully fully anodized. Good Luck!
Thank you 🙏🏻 🙂
Some people think you can only get authentic NTN bearings from hambini who sells them 2-3 times the price :)
Not quite as bad as 3x the price, but certainly more expensive yes. 😅
Where can you by them for cheap ? In France I have only managed to find a website with ntn bearings sold as the same price as on Hambini's website
I never trusted ceramic stuff. Maybe ceramic is good for certain application but bicycle wheel is not one of them which are subjected to judder from road surface. I source Ezo, NTN bearing from Monotaro, a trusted online market place for technical supply. Sometime it can be rather long lead time for non stocked item, I assume these needs to be imported from Japan. Normally I would use 2RU semi contact seal, or 2RS full contact seal as altenattive. NTN code is a bit different, either LLU or LLB, can't remember which is which. Lately I noticed my rear wheel has a bit of play, looks like bearing is bad after 5.000 kms of mix surface.
Yes I have used Monotaro before, they have an extensive range of equipment. 🙂👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165There are other local online market place, but I doubt all the products are genuine. I assume there are many counterfeit in the market since bearing is a fast consumable item.
18:00 On the slight play possibly due to the wear of the axle, I am starting to experience that on my front wheel so slightly. Is it a major concern or should I just continue riding it?
Get it checked first. 👍🏻🙂
I've got a bunch of Chinese hubs, some axles have too small of a distance between the 2 bearings causing the play you speak of. You can use a small washer over the axle in between the bearings but it will slowly cut into the axle
Interesting 🤔 👍🏻
Does the 2023 version hyper wheels have the same axles issue? I'm running set of R45 for 2000km. Edit, ceramic bearing version. If the se version launch early, I will definitely go steel bearings.
Yes get rid of the ceramic bearings asap. But the axle in the 2023 model is better.
How can you have sideways movement of a bearing on the axle when, on the drive side, the distance between the axle shoulder and the drop-out is occupied by 3 bearings, 2 spacers and an end cap; and on the non-drive side by a bearing and an end cap - there is nowhere for the bearing to move. If, as you say in your addendum, there is ‘play’ at the circumference of the wheel, that can only be caused by movement in the bearing itself, or between the bearing and the hub.
A reduction in the diameter of the axle as a result of wear. Even if the caps were solid and I moving (and I suspect they are not) everything would be able to move up and down. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 I thought you said the bearings were moving sideways?!
My takeaway was that he is having a rocking motion on the axial plane.
Ceramic bearings are only good if the races are made of ceramics too. Don't use bearings with different material hardness.
Agreed. 🙂
I personally think the only place where full ceramic bearings can be used on a bike is a rear derailleur's pulley wheels.
I have the "Hyper 2023" wheels.
Guess the axle is better, but do you recommend i replace the ceramic bearings on these as well?
I would. 🙂
Any industrial-grade steel bearing is a good alternative.
Hi, can you tell me which way round the large rubber washer fits onto the hub body as mine has fallen off? Thank you.
Look at the shape and check against the recess in the hub. Or, next video 🙂
Whats your opinion on Skf Mtrx bearings with balls in a polymer ring?
Not ideal.
Ceramic bearings were the "thing" before 3D printing became the "thing". Years before, CNC'd color anodized stuff was the "thing" In between those titanium was the "thing". See where this goes? Avoid the newest-latest, hyped-to-the-max "thing" and you'll save money and spend more time riding and less time wrenching. You're welcome :-)
Titanium is still the thing. 😁
other over hyped improvements .....are disc brakes, center - lock, thru axles, tubeless tires , hookless beads, chain waxing , single chain sets, adding extra cassette cogs, electronic shifting , thinner chains.......
Chains ? Brakes ? Luxury. We had to get up before we went to bed and cycle to work without a bike. @@milovacc1195
@@joystation1 apparently, someone has limited comprehension and communication skills .
Is it possible to remove and install those bearings at home? Or it requires special tools?
As a former shop mechanic, it's rarely a good idea to not use the right tools for the job (the thought of it grinds my gears). In terms of bearing removal, you can remove the hub shell bearings by knocking the axles out with a mallet. You'll need a bearing puller for the freehub body bearings.
For reinstallation, a hub bearing press tool is the ideal solution.
Yes it’s possible, but not recommended if you want to do a good job and avoid damage. You can find some very cheap but good tools online nowadays. 🙂👍🏻
The composite steel ceramic (hybrid) bearings are a total waste of money, I wouldn't even entertain the idea of them.
Full ceramic are a different story though but several times the price of steel bearings, probably worthwhile for someone who spends too much time washing things particularly if they do it wrong and have direct flow at / into bearings instead of avoiding any seal area's.
The bearing cage material isn't really an issue, very much doubt anyone can ride fast enough for cage to deform or overheat.
On IC engines and vehicles capable of high speed, steel or bronze cages are best, sometimes even being silver plated to reduce friction
All good points.
Those 6803 bearings have almost half the load rating of 6903, cost the same, don't weigh or drag twice as much....
Cost is not the same I think? 🤔
@@reginaldscot165 do a cost per mile and tell me if its cheaper haha
Grease the pawls then NO wear !
Wow 😮 Genius! I have been a bike mechanic for 8 years and a cyclist for 20+ and I never thought or heard of anyone doing that! If only bearings had grease instead them, they would never wear out! 😂
Everything will wear out, it's a matter of how much wear you can minimise.
The info that steel cages are better and more efficient than polymer cages is false and comes from hambini that only sells those.
If you do some research, you'll find that it is the other way around, not by accident that ceramicspeed and other top of the line overpriced bearings come with polymer cages...
Thanks I will! 🙂👍🏻