I have a deere 333d early serial break and I am wondering what the torque specs are for the main nut that u guys use and the bearing drag process. I have the service manual but it doesn't give specifics on the rexroth gearbox it only say not serviceable but it does say the specs for the later serial break. I used those the first time so I was just wondering ur process and specs.
The Rexroth factory instructions state: -Clean Threads -Apply oil to threads -Rotate ring gear as you tighten -Torque to 147.5 ft lbs -Wait 5 seconds for setting of thread -Tighten nut to 147.5 again -Be sure it does not rotate more than 7 degrees more, if so repeat. -Tighten nut another 51 degrees. -Install nut pins We do it a little different because everything is not factory new all the time. -Oil bearings and Nut thread -Rotate housing as you tighten AND tap the flange with a ball peen hammer (at times there are scars on the housing stopping the bearings from seating properly and this helps seat all the races) -Torque to 225 ft lbs. -Hammer smack, check torque again, repeat till holds 225 ft lbs. -Don't forget nut pins -Smile and wave
@@CRComponents alright thanks, you guys are awesome. That is quite different than what is stated in the service manual for the later serial break but had no other info to work with and while I did get 2000 hours out of that seal compared to the 1000 out of the factory one I was alright with that. Thanks for the info.
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I have a deere 333d early serial break and I am wondering what the torque specs are for the main nut that u guys use and the bearing drag process. I have the service manual but it doesn't give specifics on the rexroth gearbox it only say not serviceable but it does say the specs for the later serial break. I used those the first time so I was just wondering ur process and specs.
The Rexroth factory instructions state:
-Clean Threads
-Apply oil to threads
-Rotate ring gear as you tighten
-Torque to 147.5 ft lbs
-Wait 5 seconds for setting of thread
-Tighten nut to 147.5 again
-Be sure it does not rotate more than 7 degrees more, if so repeat.
-Tighten nut another 51 degrees.
-Install nut pins
We do it a little different because everything is not factory new all the time.
-Oil bearings and Nut thread
-Rotate housing as you tighten AND tap the flange with a ball peen hammer (at times there are scars on the housing stopping the bearings from seating properly and this helps seat all the races)
-Torque to 225 ft lbs.
-Hammer smack, check torque again, repeat till holds 225 ft lbs.
-Don't forget nut pins
-Smile and wave
@@CRComponents alright thanks, you guys are awesome. That is quite different than what is stated in the service manual for the later serial break but had no other info to work with and while I did get 2000 hours out of that seal compared to the 1000 out of the factory one I was alright with that. Thanks for the info.
@@TIMBUTLER-h1k Your welcome!