I show you how to start making a round hat using Nålebinding and the Oslo stitch. Oslo stitch tutorial (you should watch this first): • Nålebinding tutorial p...
At 4:56 and a little after, I make a mistake. Instead of picking up stitches/loops from the right side of my thumb (clockwise), so that the rosette moves counterclockwise in my hands, I pick them up from the left. The result is a twisting of the whole work, and the rosette ends up wrong side out on the finished hat. So instead, when you are going from row one to row two, pick up loops from the right side of your thumb in the clockwise direction, so that the rosette moves counterclockwise as you work. I have had some trouble with this transition, so I hope this goes smoother for you!
@@useyourbrain.5574 I can try. As I said in the comment, I am not very good at that myself. I made my hat with the mistake, so it does not have to be a deal breaker. But I will try to make a video, and link it, though you might have to wait a little while. I am sorry.
HomeWithMyBookshelf hi, no matter how many times I try when working the first row when I take it off I have the plaited side on one side and the diagnal stitch on the other side, but there are large lines in the middle. When I practice it without picking up the thread used for pulling it doesn’t happen and looks like your Oslo stitch from the first tutorial. I think somehow when I’m picking the pulling thread up something is going wrong. I’ve tried 12 times and it’s the same every time. Any ideas what I may be doing wrong?
@@bobbybobster7595 I don't know exactly what you might be doing wrong, sorry. The tightening thread needs to be picked up before the stitch is made, and then it's important to tighten each stitch to your thumb the same tightness. You could try this simpler round start demonstrated by Karin Byom: th-cam.com/video/Abi2G6JHpuE/w-d-xo.html
Please post more frequently. You're like a super underrated band. You're awesome, you speak amazingly, your content is great! I don't get why you don't have a trillion subscribers.
Thank you! I haven't been super motivated to make videos recently, and I feel like the second video about the hat might be a let-down. But I guess I just have to try to explain the best I can. Your support gives me more of a push, thank you!
This seems like a way better way to make a circle than what I've seen explained elsewhere. If you keep making these great tutorials then I'm sure Nalbinding will become much more popular.
I found this craft whilst looking into knitting stuff; my nan has recently had a mass discovered through a CT scan and the doctors suspect that it's most likely dementia and she has always knitted since she was a child, so knitting feels like it's something I can connect with her. Really interested to learn nalbinding to show her this and hopefully spark some interest in a new craft. Thanks for a clear tutorial 🤗
I'm sorry about your nan! I hope this can give you both something new and interesting to learn. And you are very welcome! Remember to check out my first tutorial on Oslo stitch (linked in the description) if you are completely new to this 😊. I wish you all the best!
Thank you! The mug is from Reading in England, where I have shopped for books a lot. But also, of course, I love to read, so I like the double meaning ;) Also, I'm glad you liked the tutorial! Let me know if you have any questions as you continue your nalbinding journey, and I will do my best to answer them.
Yay! Got my first round put together. Of course I totally screwed up after a few stitches in the first row around it , but I did it. Thank you so much for your help.
You could absolutely use this technique for a pouch! Just transition from working a flat round piece to a cylinder when you feel like the pouch base is big enough. More details on this transition in this video: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html I also have a tutorial for the beginning of a rectangular pouch, worked bottom up, if that is of interest: th-cam.com/video/gZBVDcKdjE8/w-d-xo.html
According to this article (nalbound.com/2020/01/06/nalbound-camel-muzzles/ ), it does seem like the muzzles are made using nalbinding, and she found many where the Mammen stitch had been used. I do not have a tutorial (yet) on Mammen stitch, but there are plenty out there. Here is a page that introduces the stitch, and has a link to a tutorial: www.en.neulakintaat.fi/29
My first row, even when I tighten into a circle, is still super loose, so loose that I can’t tell if mine looks like yours! I’ve redone it 4 times now , trying to tighten more and more, but never reaching what yours looks like. Any ideas?
You could try this method of starting instead: th-cam.com/video/0R7EWxeauSU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FBmA7j1GDOvv2h5- If you find your Oslo stitch being too loose in general, you can either choose a thicker yarn to work with, a denser stitch (like Mammen), or you could tighten the stitch to your needle by stopping the needle halfway through the loop, tightening the previous loop, and then pulling the needle through.
Quick question. For a rougher yarn, I've had trouble with it catching on itself and then not pulling through very well. I've tried changing the needle and oiling the needle to see if that would help, but I had to abandon a project at the start when the yarn created a felted lump. Any tricks on avoiding that? I've never had that issue while knitting, so I'm at a loss haha
Hmm no that's a tough one. I'm sorry, I have no advice other than "try a different yarn that doesn't felt to itself". For example one with a tighter spin/ply. You will always have more fiction on the thread with nalbinding than knitting because you are pulling the entire tail through again and again.
I don't understand what happens when you cut during the first stitch - you say keep it on your thumb but my fingers are in the way so it toghtens around them too? You cut the video and then the thread has magically moved!
Ah, sorry! I have since learned to do tutorials without cuts. When the loop is tightened for the first stitch I use my dominant hand to untangle it from my fingers while tightening the loop so that it ends up just around my thumb. Let me know if you still have problems/questions!
I read somewhere that I can do this with a darning needle? Also wool yarn isn't accesible anywhere near me and I'm broke lol so I couldn't get it anyway. Can I use acrylic? I know it might be more hard but I don't mind lol. I love fiber arts and I want to learn as many as I can and nalbinding seems like such a beautiful and old craft that I want to be able to do.
Yes, you can definitely do this with a darning needle. I find working with short and narrow needles to be a bit frustrating though - they hurt to push through the loops again and again and can also be tough to grip on the other side. But you can definitely do this with a darning needle or really any needle that is blunt and whose eye will fit the yarn. Just know that if you are frustrated it might help upgrading the needle (you can make one yourself from an old toothbrush or from a popsicle stick). And yes, you can use acrylic yarn. It might stick to itself more and be harder to get through the loops. Also it likely won't felt, so your joins will have to be different. Here is a page talking about all the possible ways to join in new yarn: www.en.neulakintaat.fi/63 Here's a tutorial for the lazy join: th-cam.com/video/xbJQ7vVrfzQ/w-d-xo.html
are you planning on finishing the hat tutorial? I am a sock knitter and can figure out how to shape it if you are not planning to make a part 2. thanks!
Part 2 is coming, I just don't quite know what to say in it! But it will be up soon, I hope. I'm finished with the hat, and the gist of it is to just keep trying it on and adjusting the stitch number as you go along. As a knitter, I'm sure you can figure out how to shape it if you don't want to wait.
Any wool yarn that is about this thickness (super bulky (5-6 wpi) and 50 grams to 50 meters) and not superwash would do nicely. Also this yarn is a single ply, so if you want this clean look, I would look for a single ply yarn. Here are some alternatives to consider: Viking naturgarn (this is very similar), DROPS Eskimo and DROPS Snow. Otherwise, if you have a ravelry account you can search for yarn to these specifications, and find something that is easier to get a hold of (go to yarns at the top and use the filters on the left to narrow it down). Or you could ask your local yarn store what they recommend to these specifications. Good luck!
I would try to make sure you are picking up the correct loop when you make the second stitch as well as the next stitches, and tighten down to the thumb the same way every time. Since this is the beginning of the work, and you are going to tighten the starting loop anyway, I would just try to pull on the other stitches (the rest of the work) to see if it adjusts the offending loop, and if not just pull the starter loop closed and see if it turns out approximately even or at least not super noticeable. The start can be pretty loose and weird, I usually bury it when tightening the starter loop into a circle. Ps: it's most likely not your needle if you are tightening on your thumb.
You might have not gone through the loop of the tail while making the stitches. You could try this start instead: th-cam.com/video/Abi2G6JHpuE/w-d-xo.html
Hi! I vary the technique for getting the loop off the thumb. The Oslo stitch is one where there should always be one loop on the thumb. You can take the topmost loop off the thumb with your fingers, as I did at that time code, or pick it up with your needle. When you take the loop off before you do the stitch, it's important to remember to stick the needle through the loop from the front of the work, towards the back. I hope this answered your question, I'm sorry my editing made things less clear for you.
I'm with her until 4:56, but after that I can't see where she sticks the needle, exactly, in the rosette she's created. In some videos they suggest you'll be picking up stitches clockwise, moving to the right (and the little rosette will turn counterclockwise in your hands). Here she points to the stitches going off to the left of the thumb, as though she'll be picking up stitches on the left. Anyone? Help.
Looking back on this now I think I got this wrong and twisted the whole thing, with the result that the beginning rosette was wrong side out on the finished hat. I was rather a beginner when making this video (which gave it some good qualities, but also....mistakes), and I've had some trouble with this exact transition (from first to second row). You are right, you should pick up from the right so your rosette turns counter clockwise in your hands. I believe mine did that after a while when I had got the twist done, but yeah...I made a mistake. I'm sorry, and I hope you figure it out better than I did - hopefully this clarification helps. Good luck with your nalbinding!
I bought it at my local yarn store here in Norway. It's a Norwegian brand, so you'll have to look for yarn that is equivalent other places. The yarn I'm using is in the chunky/bulky range, with recommended needle size 8-9 mm for knitting.
You should first sew it into the binding using a tapestry needle, then you can cut it. You don't have to sew it far into the binding, maybe 5-6 stitches in. This is just to avoid that the circle becomes a hole later.
Wait... what happened at 1:48? At 1:49 the video jumps and the thread is in a different orientation on the thumb. This immediately happens again with the 2nd loop. Bad editing choice. Do. Not. Cut. Steps. In. A. Tutorial. Either 1) Its a small cut in footage, so you saved basically no time, and the jump is just needlessly distracting, or 2) you saved a lot of time...which is bad because we didnt see what you did to get the end result. Both of these are things to avoid in making a tutorial. Dont assume we know what you did. If we did, we wouldn't be watching a tutorial.
I'm sorry - this was only my third tutorial, and it is likely to be due to me tripping up on words. I will try to explain. Edit: I have checked the time stamp, and it is basically just me tightening the loop by pulling the thread (a loss of about a second, maybe two). This is stuff I covered in my Oslo stitch tutorial and probably therefore thought unnecessary to include here. Again, sorry - I was not used to one-take videos at this point, and my main focus used to be to shorten my videos. I have now learnt my lesson, and any future tutorials (if I make any) will be uncut. Let me know if you are still confused.
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf thanks! Sorry for phrasing that so rudely earlier. I was having an off day. Over all its a good video. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to try to help people learn. :)
I'm sorry it's distracting to you. I often have trouble saying everything I want to say in a take without messing up, that's why I portion it out and make a bunch of clips that I put together. I hope you can still use this tutorial, but if not, I'm sorry.
At 4:56 and a little after, I make a mistake. Instead of picking up stitches/loops from the right side of my thumb (clockwise), so that the rosette moves counterclockwise in my hands, I pick them up from the left. The result is a twisting of the whole work, and the rosette ends up wrong side out on the finished hat. So instead, when you are going from row one to row two, pick up loops from the right side of your thumb in the clockwise direction, so that the rosette moves counterclockwise as you work. I have had some trouble with this transition, so I hope this goes smoother for you!
@Maranda I'm not sure what you mean by this, could you elaborate?
Now im really confused. Can you add an edit in the video, showing what to do at all please?
@@useyourbrain.5574 I can try. As I said in the comment, I am not very good at that myself. I made my hat with the mistake, so it does not have to be a deal breaker. But I will try to make a video, and link it, though you might have to wait a little while. I am sorry.
HomeWithMyBookshelf hi, no matter how many times I try when working the first row when I take it off I have the plaited side on one side and the diagnal stitch on the other side, but there are large lines in the middle. When I practice it without picking up the thread used for pulling it doesn’t happen and looks like your Oslo stitch from the first tutorial. I think somehow when I’m picking the pulling thread up something is going wrong. I’ve tried 12 times and it’s the same every time. Any ideas what I may be doing wrong?
@@bobbybobster7595 I don't know exactly what you might be doing wrong, sorry. The tightening thread needs to be picked up before the stitch is made, and then it's important to tighten each stitch to your thumb the same tightness. You could try this simpler round start demonstrated by Karin Byom: th-cam.com/video/Abi2G6JHpuE/w-d-xo.html
Nalebinding: "That was your first stitch"
Knitting: "That was your first row"
Crochet: "You are now finished"
😂😂😂
Please post more frequently. You're like a super underrated band. You're awesome, you speak amazingly, your content is great! I don't get why you don't have a trillion subscribers.
Thank you! I haven't been super motivated to make videos recently, and I feel like the second video about the hat might be a let-down. But I guess I just have to try to explain the best I can. Your support gives me more of a push, thank you!
I finally made part 2: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the motivation!
The reason why she doesnt have a trillion subs its bc theres only about 7 billion of us but i agree
This seems like a way better way to make a circle than what I've seen explained elsewhere. If you keep making these great tutorials then I'm sure Nalbinding will become much more popular.
Thank you!!
Yours is the best Nalebinding tutorial. Thank you!
I agree I watched others this one was the easiest to follow
Your instructions are clear and easy to follow. Eagerly awaiting part two. Thanks!
Here's part 2, I finally made it: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
I found this craft whilst looking into knitting stuff; my nan has recently had a mass discovered through a CT scan and the doctors suspect that it's most likely dementia and she has always knitted since she was a child, so knitting feels like it's something I can connect with her. Really interested to learn nalbinding to show her this and hopefully spark some interest in a new craft. Thanks for a clear tutorial 🤗
I'm sorry about your nan! I hope this can give you both something new and interesting to learn. And you are very welcome! Remember to check out my first tutorial on Oslo stitch (linked in the description) if you are completely new to this 😊. I wish you all the best!
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf thank you so much 🤗😁
What a great tutorial! Finally a tutorial where i can clearly see what's happening! Can't wait for part 2!
Here's part 2, I finally made it: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for your easy to follow tutorial! Plus, I love your teacup!
Thank you! The mug is from Reading in England, where I have shopped for books a lot. But also, of course, I love to read, so I like the double meaning ;)
Also, I'm glad you liked the tutorial! Let me know if you have any questions as you continue your nalbinding journey, and I will do my best to answer them.
I'm sorry, I forgot which teacup was in this video! The QualiTea mug was bought from dftba.com, they might still have it!
Thanks for the detailed instructions! I made a hat for my baby daughter.
Well done! I'm glad my instructions helped you!
Yay! Got my first round put together. Of course I totally screwed up after a few stitches in the first row around it , but I did it. Thank you so much for your help.
Yay, I'm so glad you did it! Good luck with the rest of the hat!
I first saw this craft in Newfoundland, Canada and am eager to give it a try. Thanks for the great videos.
Amazing! Could I use this technique to make a pouch or do you have a video for that ? X
You could absolutely use this technique for a pouch! Just transition from working a flat round piece to a cylinder when you feel like the pouch base is big enough. More details on this transition in this video: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
I also have a tutorial for the beginning of a rectangular pouch, worked bottom up, if that is of interest: th-cam.com/video/gZBVDcKdjE8/w-d-xo.html
I'm done with part 1 and would much enjoy to finish the hat with you!
I will try to make the second part soon!
Here's part 2, I finally made it: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
Nice video. Would you happen to have one on the camel muzzle looping technique? Thank you
According to this article (nalbound.com/2020/01/06/nalbound-camel-muzzles/ ), it does seem like the muzzles are made using nalbinding, and she found many where the Mammen stitch had been used.
I do not have a tutorial (yet) on Mammen stitch, but there are plenty out there. Here is a page that introduces the stitch, and has a link to a tutorial: www.en.neulakintaat.fi/29
My first row, even when I tighten into a circle, is still super loose, so loose that I can’t tell if mine looks like yours! I’ve redone it 4 times now , trying to tighten more and more, but never reaching what yours looks like. Any ideas?
You could try this method of starting instead: th-cam.com/video/0R7EWxeauSU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FBmA7j1GDOvv2h5-
If you find your Oslo stitch being too loose in general, you can either choose a thicker yarn to work with, a denser stitch (like Mammen), or you could tighten the stitch to your needle by stopping the needle halfway through the loop, tightening the previous loop, and then pulling the needle through.
Quick question. For a rougher yarn, I've had trouble with it catching on itself and then not pulling through very well. I've tried changing the needle and oiling the needle to see if that would help, but I had to abandon a project at the start when the yarn created a felted lump. Any tricks on avoiding that? I've never had that issue while knitting, so I'm at a loss haha
Hmm no that's a tough one. I'm sorry, I have no advice other than "try a different yarn that doesn't felt to itself". For example one with a tighter spin/ply. You will always have more fiction on the thread with nalbinding than knitting because you are pulling the entire tail through again and again.
I don't understand what happens when you cut during the first stitch - you say keep it on your thumb but my fingers are in the way so it toghtens around them too? You cut the video and then the thread has magically moved!
Ah, sorry! I have since learned to do tutorials without cuts. When the loop is tightened for the first stitch I use my dominant hand to untangle it from my fingers while tightening the loop so that it ends up just around my thumb. Let me know if you still have problems/questions!
Excellent demonstration
Interesting. This feels similar to the Old Norwegian method of casting on, in knitting!
That's interesting!
I read somewhere that I can do this with a darning needle? Also wool yarn isn't accesible anywhere near me and I'm broke lol so I couldn't get it anyway. Can I use acrylic? I know it might be more hard but I don't mind lol. I love fiber arts and I want to learn as many as I can and nalbinding seems like such a beautiful and old craft that I want to be able to do.
Yes, you can definitely do this with a darning needle. I find working with short and narrow needles to be a bit frustrating though - they hurt to push through the loops again and again and can also be tough to grip on the other side. But you can definitely do this with a darning needle or really any needle that is blunt and whose eye will fit the yarn. Just know that if you are frustrated it might help upgrading the needle (you can make one yourself from an old toothbrush or from a popsicle stick).
And yes, you can use acrylic yarn. It might stick to itself more and be harder to get through the loops. Also it likely won't felt, so your joins will have to be different. Here is a page talking about all the possible ways to join in new yarn:
www.en.neulakintaat.fi/63
Here's a tutorial for the lazy join: th-cam.com/video/xbJQ7vVrfzQ/w-d-xo.html
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf Thank you soooooo much!!!
are you planning on finishing the hat tutorial? I am a sock knitter and can figure out how to shape it if you are not planning to make a part 2. thanks!
Part 2 is coming, I just don't quite know what to say in it! But it will be up soon, I hope.
I'm finished with the hat, and the gist of it is to just keep trying it on and adjusting the stitch number as you go along. As a knitter, I'm sure you can figure out how to shape it if you don't want to wait.
Here's part 2, I finally made it: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
also a good way to use up loom waste.
Definitely! I hadn't thought of that!
Can't get that kind of wool anymore what do you suggest to use
Any wool yarn that is about this thickness (super bulky (5-6 wpi) and 50 grams to 50 meters) and not superwash would do nicely. Also this yarn is a single ply, so if you want this clean look, I would look for a single ply yarn. Here are some alternatives to consider: Viking naturgarn (this is very similar), DROPS Eskimo and DROPS Snow.
Otherwise, if you have a ravelry account you can search for yarn to these specifications, and find something that is easier to get a hold of (go to yarns at the top and use the filters on the left to narrow it down). Or you could ask your local yarn store what they recommend to these specifications. Good luck!
love your tutorials pls do part 2
Here's part 2, I finally made it: th-cam.com/video/A8jN5zMErF8/w-d-xo.html
How do you keep track of the beginning of a round?
I usually counted the rows, but stitch markers are also very useful.
I keep ending up with a loop that is very loose on my 2nd stitch. How can I avoid this? Idk if it's the needle I'm using or what's going on.
I would try to make sure you are picking up the correct loop when you make the second stitch as well as the next stitches, and tighten down to the thumb the same way every time. Since this is the beginning of the work, and you are going to tighten the starting loop anyway, I would just try to pull on the other stitches (the rest of the work) to see if it adjusts the offending loop, and if not just pull the starter loop closed and see if it turns out approximately even or at least not super noticeable. The start can be pretty loose and weird, I usually bury it when tightening the starter loop into a circle.
Ps: it's most likely not your needle if you are tightening on your thumb.
This is a great video, thank you! I made a hat 😊
I'm glad it helped!
I made my chain but it is just straight. I tighten the tail, still straight.
You might have not gone through the loop of the tail while making the stitches. You could try this start instead: th-cam.com/video/Abi2G6JHpuE/w-d-xo.html
Would you do a tutorial for leg warmers
I haven't made leg warmers yet, but I will consider making a tutorial when I know how to make them :)
At 5.12 min I see that suddenly the 2 loops on top of the thumb change to 1 loop on top of the thumb, can't see why this happened - please explain?
Hi! I vary the technique for getting the loop off the thumb. The Oslo stitch is one where there should always be one loop on the thumb. You can take the topmost loop off the thumb with your fingers, as I did at that time code, or pick it up with your needle. When you take the loop off before you do the stitch, it's important to remember to stick the needle through the loop from the front of the work, towards the back.
I hope this answered your question, I'm sorry my editing made things less clear for you.
I'm with her until 4:56, but after that I can't see where she sticks the needle, exactly, in the rosette she's created. In some videos they suggest you'll be picking up stitches clockwise, moving to the right (and the little rosette will turn counterclockwise in your hands). Here she points to the stitches going off to the left of the thumb, as though she'll be picking up stitches on the left. Anyone? Help.
Looking back on this now I think I got this wrong and twisted the whole thing, with the result that the beginning rosette was wrong side out on the finished hat. I was rather a beginner when making this video (which gave it some good qualities, but also....mistakes), and I've had some trouble with this exact transition (from first to second row). You are right, you should pick up from the right so your rosette turns counter clockwise in your hands. I believe mine did that after a while when I had got the twist done, but yeah...I made a mistake. I'm sorry, and I hope you figure it out better than I did - hopefully this clarification helps. Good luck with your nalbinding!
Where do you get the yarn/wool from ?
I bought it at my local yarn store here in Norway. It's a Norwegian brand, so you'll have to look for yarn that is equivalent other places. The yarn I'm using is in the chunky/bulky range, with recommended needle size 8-9 mm for knitting.
amazing.
Is it okay to cut the starting thread if it's being too confusing or not?
You should first sew it into the binding using a tapestry needle, then you can cut it. You don't have to sew it far into the binding, maybe 5-6 stitches in. This is just to avoid that the circle becomes a hole later.
Nice to know, thanks for the information.
Do you sell hats?
No, I don't sell any crafted things. If I were to sell something it would be in person at viking markets and the like.
Thanks madem
😲
i made an egg
I hope that was your intended outcome! If not, you may need to increase for more rounds.
Wait... what happened at 1:48? At 1:49 the video jumps and the thread is in a different orientation on the thumb. This immediately happens again with the 2nd loop. Bad editing choice.
Do. Not. Cut. Steps. In. A. Tutorial.
Either 1) Its a small cut in footage, so you saved basically no time, and the jump is just needlessly distracting, or 2) you saved a lot of time...which is bad because we didnt see what you did to get the end result.
Both of these are things to avoid in making a tutorial. Dont assume we know what you did. If we did, we wouldn't be watching a tutorial.
I'm sorry - this was only my third tutorial, and it is likely to be due to me tripping up on words. I will try to explain.
Edit: I have checked the time stamp, and it is basically just me tightening the loop by pulling the thread (a loss of about a second, maybe two). This is stuff I covered in my Oslo stitch tutorial and probably therefore thought unnecessary to include here. Again, sorry - I was not used to one-take videos at this point, and my main focus used to be to shorten my videos. I have now learnt my lesson, and any future tutorials (if I make any) will be uncut. Let me know if you are still confused.
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf thanks! Sorry for phrasing that so rudely earlier. I was having an off day. Over all its a good video. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to try to help people learn. :)
@@iBetThisNameWillWork Thank you 😊 You're very welcome 😊
There are so many cuts in this video. It's so disjointed and distracting.
I'm sorry it's distracting to you. I often have trouble saying everything I want to say in a take without messing up, that's why I portion it out and make a bunch of clips that I put together. I hope you can still use this tutorial, but if not, I'm sorry.
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf - some people just like to complain about every little thing. You did fine.